M17/Ocz Whitebook Quad Problems

OK so started to get it again while I was on facebook and listening to some music. I can confirm that pulling the power cord and plugging it back in actually stop its. It was non stop for 15 minutes, then I put my battery and plugged the power out and back in again, stopped it.

 

did you copy my steps on rmclock

 

I haven't tried anything else, however I got a return email just now and my laptop will be going in for a priority request repair.

 

the chances of them fixing it is low. you better call them and ask them what are they going to do specifically. otherwise why have your computer sent to them for no reason.

 

Well other than its not my job to fix a faulty system they shipped. I'm about to finish my degree, got my finals in 1 weeks, so I don't have time to fix a laptop purchased from a leading manufacturer whose technicians should be capable of fixing anything they sale. If they can't fix a product then it should not be sold, simple business.

EDIT: This is part of the email sent to me,

"From what you are describing, the problem seems to be related with the motherboard, more exactly with the northbridge - the integrated circuit that controls the communication between cpu, gpu, memory and southbridge. It seems like the northbridge is overheating."

 

i get what you mean. ok just keep us up to date. i am still going to fix it myself. unless i hear that flextronics knows how to fix it permantly.

they it no other notebook built as this one right now. so i am going to keep on trying.

 

Ok cool, well the technician that emailed me is the guy who spent the 2 and a half hours guiding me through everything on Monday, so I'm confident in this, hopefully they have identified the area and they will have it fix upon its return. If thats the case I'll contact them and post their prodcedure here.

 

this is the response i am being given by arima directly as well about the stuttering as well as ocz.. the temps of the northbridge

 

what do you think about a copper mod with mx2

 

sorry for the double post but i am looking for a way to cool down the north brigde. i notice the stuttering occurs when the fans start spin up.

 

well a temp fix would be to take the bootom off n run it on a cooler

over heating can be easily fixed

 

i thought about it but there is so much screws to unscrew. and i travel alot to school and church so it wouldn't be good for me.

 

thats why i said temp fix .... there are days when you really wanna get you game on thats all im sayin

for real though it sounds like its not getting enough heat out of there ....could do the holes mod over the cpu vent

a copper mod .....this is a tough one

 

yeah i did do a hard mod but i didn't finish it. it looks bad.

 

o i got it we take off the gpu heat sink and put in a bigger fan :wink:

 

i considered that. Lol. but i don't know where to start looking.

 

it was a joke .... see removing the heat sink + fan does not equal cooler .....

any way im at a loss for cooling since the north bridge is at a akward place in terms of doign something

 

As i see it the quad is putting out alot of heat and heating the northbridge since its on the same heatsink.. do you think we could cut away the part of the heatsink on the northbridge and put on a ramsink? Something like this but dont look at the water block..

 

Here are his temps with a ramsink on the NB.. he says his room temp is 15C..
idle

prime95


Do you think its worth trying? anyone with guts out there ?

The pictures and water cooling are property of HIM.

My temps on the NB are almost 80C when stressing the cpu to the max.. And i really dont think its good for the MotherBoard.. The cpu is made to take it up to 100C but not the NB id say.
Even at idle my NB temp is higher than his at stressing for like 10C..

 

crazy find if mine was messed up i would try bhut sadly my t9400 isn't man enought to put out the heat i need to stutter lol

 

Whell strangely enough i dont stutter either even with my temps but im worried still..
Dondadah could do it perhaps if hes the type.. im just not that crafty when it comes to modding like this.. what do you think Dondadah?

I found a thermal spec for our chipset (pm45).. it says 100C here..

I really dont get it.. why did they make a shared heatsink? The nb usualy isnt so hot and a ramsink is more than sufficient. Now the quad is heating it up instead of it being cool by itself.

 

well we need to get him on the forum and ask him a few questions before we do anything. (i don't have the tools to cut the hink sink in half. but i am not really shaky to do it because of the fact i don't see any harm in it. you cut the hinksink. and seal it. then you put a northbridge heak sink from a desktop on it and your good.)

i would like to ask him. what temps to he get before this mod

can he heat up his room to more real life conditions

how come only 3 cpu's are showing instead of 4. there is no options to disable any cores in the bios so how did he do it.(i am not saying he is a liar in any way but i would like to know this info)


was he stuttering before and if so what was the symptoms.

if he is stuttering now.


what would he recommend us to do if we want to cool our systems but still want it to be portable

what do you think the northbrigde would be like if there was not heatsink on it.


what about the southbridge? (unless there is a heatsink on it under the cf cable is. i think i so it under one of the gpu's)(sorry but i do not want to open my case because if the fact if i do i want to start on it.) what are the temps of that. (in a few pages back we also stated the southbrigde can be unstable because of that.)

what type of cooling can we provide for this chip

hellcry. since you are not stuttering, and your temps are like ours you just have a lucky machine. i know you said you didn't do anything. but what is the weather like where you are. has it change at all.


BTW. I NOTICE HE DID THE SAME THING AS ME IN RMCLOCK. DID ANYONE ELSE TRY THIS TO SEE IF IT HELPS. PLEASE POST YOUR RESULTS IF YOU DID. wou;d try this but for some reason i install win7 7100 x64 and it is not reading my one of my cards.
http://i42.tinypic.com/2m5m1wh.jpg
i get a code 10.

i really like this os from vista and win7 7000. so if anyone has any ideas. please post.

 

You're not the only one: http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=378620

 

yeah i saw that i wonder if i said contunie to use it or switch to win7 7000. i don't not want to go back to vista. it is a pain and a half to switch drivers. it takes me 30 mins to switch from one driver to the next and it still have errors were win7 was just so much simpler. do you think i can just upgrade to that when the fix is out.

 

You could always rollback to an earlier beta of 7, which didn't seem to have that problem and were already pretty stable overall.

 

well when i went to 7100. i formated and installed it twice. just to make sure it wasnt a bad install. but it is still the same. i have to format again and it is going to take a while because i have to go to work. but tonight i can go back to testing and undervolting to see what happens. there hasn't been any updates in a while to fix this issue and i know it is a hardware issue now so i am going to try some cooling methods.(undervolting and some hard mods) just simple ones for now.

 

I invited him over and he already started responding to me.. just check the link i gave previously.. If you read his thread he says he has a faulty temp sensor on one core and hwmonitor cant read it.. I believe the nb would burn up in a matter of minutes without a ramsink since the little surface and mass it has would surely get too hot by itself.. I dont even know where the southbridge is but i think it isnt too stressed.. The weather here doesnt really matter unless its summer when its alot hotter in my room.. but its not cold if thats what youre asking.. its around 24C usually in the room unless its summer.. and my advice abot windows is.. install windows 7 build 7077 - im using it and its great.

 

I also found THIS and im thinking of trying it on my cpu and putting a ramsink on the nb.. if it doesnt work fine i can still put back the original heatsink.. i just have to figure out how to power it since i cant plug in the connector for power anywhere in the laptop since its made for desktops.. and i could glue the whole rig on my the back of the lcd if i get it working somehow and still have a portable system.. would need a bigger carrying bag than though.. but i dont move it alot so thats the least of my concerns.. if i could only get it running like in that post..

 

i began reading on and i saw were you post some questions about it.


and go ahead and try it. i would like to see how much of a temp difference the northbrigde would be if this was installed. i think the northbridge gets so hot because of the fact the cpu is on it also. of it wasnt may be it would be 10-20 degrees lower. what do you think?
you deserve rep. but i am on my way to work. when i come back i will shoot you some.

 

i have a desktop chipset cooler a monster sized one. im bringing over to a freind who is going to mill it down for me this weekend to the right size. this thing is 1/2" copper with aluminum pins coming off it. we are going to cut the pins in half or how ever high they need to be and mill the base down so its not 1/2" thick. that should be MORE than enough to cool it. i just have to figure out a mounting system

 

I already found a seller for the Tide Water near me (for only 30€ ^^).. now i just need an idea how to power it.. i dont want to have an extra power cord just for this rig.. any1 know any gadgets so i could perhaps power it from usb and connect that cable to the pin power plug of the tide water? I dont exactly get what that guy on techpowerup used..

 

he wired it to a usb chord .... using the molex connector

 

I've been thinking of doing this to mine also.

 

So i need a molex and a usb cable i can cut open right?

And what kind of a chipset cooler do you mean? Fanless that youll cut to size?

BTW. do you know how much V the pin that supplies the cpu fan can put out? 5V or can it supply enough for the Tide Water (12v)?
And how much can i squeeze out of a usb port?

 

it looks like everyone is doing sonething to solve this. if everything foes right lets send this to flex. lol.

but i found that undervolting it one step less saves you 5 degrees. 2 steps is a bluescreen. i will test more when i get home.

 

ok i see that we will soon have the northbridge covered but what about the cpu? i am thinking the maybe we can cut of the northbridge part of it and then use a sawdering(don't know how to spell it.) gun and melt it to look good again.

 

Soldering is the word you're looking for.

My fix. Change to High Performance Power Profile. So far, since I've done that, I haven't had any more stuttering, just the occasional split second scratch on some sounds in my game.

Good luck with your mods.

 

But i dont think your q9000 puts out 80C like our qx9300 does it?
And the power plan is old news i think most of us already did it.

I got measurments for the Tide Water block that i want to put on the cpu and its going to be a close one.. im going to try to also get another heatsink so i can also cut that up and still have a spare.. already contacted a german arima reseller..

 

Probably true, ran hardware monitors all night while playing my games, and all of my temps hovered around 65C while under load from gaming.

 

run prime95 for 30minutes and post it using hwmoniter.

 

ok tried undervolting again to see if i can save some power on the cpu and i stuttered. and got a lower score. this is undervolted one notch.

 

this is with normal clocks and the voltage the same on all multipliers

this seems the best. running off to work but i will do more test regarding the cpu.

 

So youre going to cut away the part of the heatsink that is on the nb now? Tell us how it goes.. any pictures of the finished insides and hwmonitor would also be nice

Im still waiting for the tide water.. the block is 13mm high so i think it should fit just barely. Also got a response from the german reseller asking if im their customer.. why cant they just sell me the damn heatsink?

BTW. Dondadah88 i see youve got temps for harddrives.. how did you get em? Mine arent showing.. never did with any hd.. know why?

 

it doesn't show in raid because it forces them to read as one. try intel storage maxtrix and it may do it. i find that is the only program that will reconize two separate hdd.

i remember switching to raid and they were gone.

zfactor and hellcry. can you post how and pictures of what you did. if wonder if the bigger the heatsink is the better.

 

Will do as soon as i have the parts and am done with it..
I just bumped into another wall with the water cooling idea.. just measured the output of the usb ports.. they only give out 5v.. and i need 12v for the tide water cooler..
The 3pin for the fan in the heatsink is also 5v as far as i know..
So any ideas how to power this thing? I though of pluggin it in two usb ports to get at least 10v but i dont really know if that will work.. any help appreciated.
I cant really move on until i have a working power supply. (and i dont want another power cord for this thing, that is not a solution for me.. i still want this rig mobile..)

Just got the exact dimensions:
waterblock 6x5,5x1,3cm (L,W,H)
box with pump, reservoir and fan 22x12x3,5cm (L,W,H)

 

not really sure sorry. i still haven't water cooled a system yet. i think you are better using two usb ports though. because one usb being stressed so much will blow out.



has anyone come up with an idea for the gpu's? i am think that to cut off the memory plates and place little hinks sinks there instead. and let that by less stuff for the fans to cool itself.

i my just wait just incase the new cards come out and they do something different in regards to cooling them.

 

this weekend we are thinking about cooling the cpu and northbridge with a couple of stacks we made and some dice. im not sure how we will test with the notebook having to be upside down but i think i will simply use a external display and keyboard/mouse and leave the system upside down for the test granted i will not be able to have the bottom on for this but this should for sure cool off the cpu and chipset WAYYY beyond what it needs to be to eliminate stuttering. if this is the cause this should show it. im working on how to orientate the setup now with the stock heatsink since i dont want to hack that one apart yet in case i need it later and they are not super cheap.

though dice will be wayyyyy more extreme than anything that can be useful for anyone for a everyday setup i want to simply rule out heat as the issue or not. then if it still shows the effects with dice we will know 1000% its not heat releated.

im going to talk with ocz to see how they feel and go from there with this idea.

 

thanks zfactor for all your hard work. keep us up to date on how it goes. seeing how ocz operates, if this does work(which it should) i can see them selling a new heat sink. it should be cheaper to.


btw. i know you said the southbridge isnt suppose to get hot but can you test it also. just want to make sure everything is tested.

 

Normally I perfer dice from Trump but on occasions have used Bally's and Tropicana's.

But FYI most notebooks have their mobo's installed upside down. Clevo has done that on their D900 series. So upside down shouldn't be a problem.

 

you're getting 55+ FPS at Ultra High @ 1920x1200? I thought the max was like 48 or something...

Anyways, regarding this issue, the guys at GoG are saying voltage while here it seems like a combination of that and a overheated northbridge