Project Freeze(M17/Ocz Whitebook)

I would guess he actually meant 0.5mm (or 0.05cm) as 0.05mm is stupidly thin.

 

So to make sure, and if my math is right.

0.05 centimeters = 0.0196850394" inch

or

0.5 millimeters = 0.0196850394" inch

So that now mean i have to goto this website:

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=1118&step=2&top_cat=87

and pick one of the three thickness's.

0.0135" (28 GA.) (10 OZ.) COPPER 110 SHEET
0.0162" (27 GA.) (12 OZ.) COPPER 110 SHEET
0.0216" (24 GA.) (16 OZ.) COPPER 110 SHEET

any help, please ?

 

sorry yeah .5mm is what you need

 

Where did you get yours from?

thank link above only has the following:

0.0135" (28 GA.) (10 OZ.) COPPER 110 SHEET = 0.3429 millimeters
0.0162" (27 GA.) (12 OZ.) COPPER 110 SHEET = 0.41148 millimetersmm
0.0216" (24 GA.) (16 OZ.) COPPER 110 SHEET = 0.54864 millimeters

Do we want to go over or under 0.5? RED or GREEN or BLUE.

I ask becuase i can not find 0.5mm as per the sugestion you have made.

 

Hey man i just ordered $100 USD of ram heatsinks.

I wanna setup like you have in the pictures you posted to keep your laptop cooler.

How did you cut them without heating up the stick tape underneeth? and how did you mount them after you did heat up the stick tape? did it still stick/hold?

Does this mod help ?

 

this mod decreases your gpu 5-7 degrees. imho it is worth it but you spent to much on the ram sinks.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3...er_16-Pin_Video_Card_BGA_Memory_Ramsinks.html

shave it down and then peel off the sticky part, them it should stick if not then apply thermal paste on it.

 

The tool that you used to shave, does it look like this?

http://www.cordless-drills.net/stock/Dremel-7700.gif

 

http://i39.tinypic.com/14184i.jpg

this is what i used.

also here is what halogod used

 

Take a look,

if i do this i know i will get much better resaults.

what do you think.

and that picture you sent me is called a "metal file" or a "hand file"

this is what i want to do

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/3669/imag0003z.jpg

 

thanks for the name. Lol.

 

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/3669/imag0003z.jpg

 

who did that????????????

you????????

 

lol


yes, but its not mouted yet.

only sitting on top with no glue or tape yet.


i will still have to shave them down.

 

ok it seems you have everything lets get started then!!!!
first i would like you to put the cover back on and see what temps you get running a benchmark. try dmc4 2 times.

then i want you to use a shaving tool(if you have one with you and shaved them down meanwhile.)

then when you get to that point i will walk you threw everything so you don't waste them.

 

Lol,

what?

I said they are not mounted, i only hand placed them to see how it will look like!

I can not power my laptop on right now as they are not fastened to the back of my laptop (only sitting there with no glue or tape!)

also, im not too sure it will see much resaults.

I have a laptop cooler with 3 120mm cooling fans. ( http://www.geeky-gadgets.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/nzxt-cryo-s_1.jpg )

I have run this cooler with my back cover off, and palyed a game left for dead at max settings, it still was running choppy and the audio was stutering. (fan speed was at max, all 3 120mm fans!)

so i know i may get cooler temp's, but i dont think it will fix my slowdown in games,

the qx9300 has to much heat.

maybe if i do install all the heat sink, and then run with the cover off with my laptop cooler I may just get to where i want to be. (i hate this laptop)

Oh, and BTW: i have 2 ocz ssd 120gb verttex on the way, this thing should fly, but for gameing the heat is just too much.

 

I am sorry, now i understand what you mean,

you wanna get a before and after, so you need me to run dmc4 so i may get the before temp's.

correct?

Ok, working on that now, i will run it twice?

 

no it was for a comparsion. to run something s you know what you had before and after. and do it with and without the cooler.


edit: yes max it out and run it twice to heat up the gpu's. make sure hwmontier is on.

and run cpustabtest for 10mins.

post your results.

 

Im thinking to run this with the cover off, and what OS should i use, xp or vista ?

 

use vista and do it with the cover on. so you know how much it is going to be. you can run it with out it if you like but do it with the cover first.

 

with or without the laptop cooler?


and im runing vista 64bit

 

do it without cooler first you need data to make sure it is worth it.

 

after 8 miniets of runing that progrm you told me to, stblty test

i got my temps way too high.

if i open the bottm cover it will drop the temp to 69 for my acpi reading

wow.

 

and what's your clock speed?

 

its whatever qx9300 is, all settings are stock.

I do not OC..

i think its 2.5??? GHz,

ram is ocz 1333mhz running at of course 1066mhz.

this is with the old RAID 0 setup of 2 320gb 7200 rpm seagate

 

ok did you start to saw down your heat sinks. i'm looking for a pictures so i can see where can you place them on the cpu.


run it with out the cover.

also did you cut open the bottom????

 

No, i have not started yet.

I only have 1 pack of the one you advised me of,

swiftech mc14

and 1 pack of the enzotech BCCC9(mbr-c1l)

and 1 pack of the enzotech bmr-c1

and 1 pack of enzotech MOS-C1


im not sure what ones are better for a preticeler location.

this would be baised on the densitiy of each type.

I dont think its a big deal, but there size is diffrent, the only small ones are MOS-C1 from enzotech,

and the Enzotech BCC9(bmr-c1l) look they are already shaved down for me, but its not enough, i will have to further shave them down.

Also, i will not being the same hand file or metel file that you have used, it may bend the fins of the heatsink's.

I will be useing a dremmel tool that has a cutting disk that spins at high RPM's so it will not bend the fins on the heat sinks.

What is wrong with my layout of the heatsinks?

can you advise of a more efficent placement?

 

it's alittle excessive but the more the better. but i want to see your cpu and how you plan on cooling that.

do you have any with thicker fins??? just wondering.


you basically covered everything. there is no spots that i see the need the to cover except



the red on the gpu is the core and it draws the most heat. i am trying to figure out a way to cool that but the crossfire cable is in the way.

also the other red is the chip that controls crossfire. so cooling that should be a plus.

the blue i checked out but there is nothing you cna do right there. adding heatsinks there won't do anything.


also

is the red lined up with heatsinks also????

 

Im not sure what you mean is the red lined up with the heat sinks also?

and for the cpu water pipe i will only put heat sinks at the tip, where the problem is 'believed' to be.

Also, for the RAM i think it would be a waist of 35 dollers to use all that copper over there,

RAM heat is not bad, its fine and does not need all the heat sinks (only looks good ) i will use those extra VGA blocks on my desktop 4870x2 water cooled card.+


finaly rememebr, i have not SHAEVED down to size those heat sinks you see in the pictures.

once i do they will be so short and not look half as effective as tthey do right now.

 

that's what it is. but i believe it's ok. you seem to know what your doing with everything. i would start right away.

and yeah the ram is alittle much. Lol.

 

No, i can not start just yet.

I will have to wait untill i get the copper mod spacer for the acpi chip.

currently i have only a thermal pad in there and i think it needs to be replaced.

this isbecuse the temp of it was 80c right? but when i use my IR gun on the back of the heat sink it was only reading 34-36c, that means the heat was not coming up to the heatsink's

this is becuase the pad was not transfering the heat effectivly.

so i will goto onlinemetal (i have posted links in this threed before) and get the order online.


when the copper spacer gets here, this laptop will go a majour overhaul.

(in a few days the missing RAID 0 SSD will get here, right now i have only 1 120gbvertex OCZ SSD)

and 1 other ocz ssd 120gb vertex in my netbook asus1000he, but im not takeing it out.

so when the hard disk get here on monday i will put it in and install vista, to test if that alone will be good enough.

forgive me, i will take my time with this. no rush.
so keep checking back for post updates

 

oh course. just keep us up to date. and yes the pad doesn't do anything for transfering heat.

 

No, i dont think your correct about that,

and according to user __-_-_-__ on this fourm he told me:

When it comes to transfering heat thermal conductivity is measured in w/mk.
( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_conductivity)

Thermal Conductivity for the pad is :3.2w/m-K
it's not very good... anyway it may work.

yes copper has a much higher rating

however, some pads can get upto 17w/m-K

copper 380 w/m-K
Sandstone 2.4
Stainless steel 12.11 ~ 45.0
Lead 35.3
Aluminium 220 (pure)
120—180 (alloys)
Gold 318
Copper 380
Silver 429
Diamond 900 - 2320

but copper is the best for your and mine laptop, and will not lost its fourm over time as the pad may do.

so, that is why imgoing to do a BiG overhaul on my laptop with all the heat shink's for VGA and the copper mod.

I will use the epoxy articsilver stuff you buy, and Artic silver 5 for the copper mod (I just love that stuff)

and i have about 20grams of it. lol.

 

the difference using a 17w/m-K thermal pad and copper + premium thermal compound is about 10ºC at max. imagine a crappy 3w/m-K one.

and it was said many times already. silver doesn't work for many different reasons. copper is the best material. (ok you can use diamond if you have billions of dollars to spend).

there's much better compounds then artic silver 5 which are not electrical conductive. but sure it does a nice job.

imo just avoid using crappy thermal pads.

 

Im going to buy a huge diamond and stick it in

 

i want to also. i have heard diamonds were cheap in africa and there's a big supply. if so can i buy some from you??????

 

even if diamond was used it wouldn't improve more then 5ºC at best imo. don't forget you would need a thermal paste.
check ic carat compound. it's made of nano size diamonds. it's one of the best ones but it does improves very much from many other premium compounds.
a diamond cooler would give a great improve in performance though. but even so it would be miles away from ln2 cooling.
very unrealistic ways... copper ftw.

and for those who wonder why all coolers or more specifically this ocz cooler is not 100% copper it's because of it's weight.
copper is a bit more expensive and it weights much more then aluminium though copper it's better for cooling.

 

let me know how these mods go FNAKFHE. Here is what I already have bought to toy around with:

2 Packs of Enzotech BCC9 VGA coolers (8 per pack) - these are the 9mm tall ones

Swiftech MCX8800 M21 and M14 coolers (the 8 Copper ones and the 4 Aluminum ones) - the coppers ones are 14.5 mm tall

Anything I use here will need to be shortened of course, unless I leave my cover off - which is a shame. The silver adhesive used on the swiftech pieces is trash, so any suggestions there?

I have already cut holes in my back cover over the CPU and GPU fans, but that is all. I would think that you would need many more holes or just have the cover off for all these passive coolers to give any appreciable gain. I am also getting the Cryo cooler later this week to aid me in cooling this laptop down more.

This forum is trouble....since I found it my desktop has just been collecting dust (and it is no slouch - 24k 3dmark 06). haha

 

another question, are there any actual pictures of the copper mod and the process of doing it? I am very curious on this but not 100% on what it actually is. I ask because I will need to do something like this soon when my QX9300 gets here.

 

I am going to copper mod my sager and I can take pictures of it. but there is a copper mod instuction for the m1330 which shows you what to do. but put it on the northbridge instead.

 

I have read through the whole project freeze thread and posted some at the end. As i stated in the thread about Coolers (started by DHC), after cutting the CPU hole my hard drives seemed to be running hotter. I will note that I did a few things as well around that time, I pretty much set all the optimizations I could find in windows to maximum performance. Initially I thought maybe the extra heat was due to the page file causing extra read/write on the HDD but that still wouldn't explain why both warmed up, so I tested with and without and found that it had no effect. Only thing I can think of is that the optimizations in Windows Vista lead to a higher power "idle" state of the hard drives so that they will be more responsive when a read/write needs to occur.

I know that the hard drives that I have (WD3200BEKT) run pretty warm, but they were doing much better once put in my Whitebook vs. the HP DV9000 they were in before. About 20 degrees Celsius better in fact. Now the primary is usually around 48 up form 40 and the secondary is up around 42 up from 36 or so. So they both are running noticeably hotter. The primary drive gets into mid 50's during HDD intensive tasks.

Any thoughts on how to keep this in check without compromising performance? Or should i not even be worrying at these temps - drives are rated up to 65.

Thanks for the help.

 

Here are my idle temps after just starting the machine from HWMonitor:

TZ00: 44
Core#0: 37
Core#1: 37
GPU Core#1: 46
GPU Core#2: 52
HDD1: 43
HDD2: 35

All in celcius.

 

ok about your hdd temps. the holes wouldn't make your temps go up.
http://i25.tinypic.com/2yl1p8k.jpg
as you see this is the while notebook close and this is after
http://i32.tinypic.com/2vcf9zq.jpg


and this is with the cover off

http://i42.tinypic.com/2116gyc.jpg


as you see, nothing is located close to your hdd. so it wouldn't affect your hdd. ONLY IF. the heat pipes or fans or something was taking heat from your hdd. which isn't the case here.

now if that's all you did to your notebook, and your hdd was affected by temps, then maybe something is vista turned on to make your hdd heat up.(virus scan, windows update, index, etc)

i also had a hp dv9640us and 2 hdd@7200rpm and one had holes and the other didn't. but the one with the holes had the os on it and it was always 10degrees hotter then the other even though it had vents.


i thought about cutting holes it the whitebook also but i didn't find it feasible to post because your resale value will go down and if you mess up, there's nothing you can really do about it because it is on your chassis.


now, looking at the sager,
http://i26.tinypic.com/2k51d.jpg

the bottom middle you will see vents located next on it. there is holes on the hdd which helps out alot. it's a good idea but i don't recommend it.

now if you are worried about your hdd more then your cpu, gpu, etc. then get the zalman nc-2000 as the fans vents are right next to the hdd. if not then get the nzxt.

here is a picture of my hdd's


the first one is the os installed and the second is music, videos, etc. and you can see the diffence in temps.
WD 400gb@5400rpm.

 

I see, I guess it was the windows optimizations (performance settings) that pushed it up then. Your temps are higher than mine, although your disks are 2 platter design - but mine is 7200 rpm, oughta cancel out the effect? Was just something I had noticed.

as a side note, how do you put pictures directly into the post? is there anywhere to dump them within NBR or do you have to have your own server to load them too? I got a few screen shots of before and after the mod with both furmark and prime95 running to stress my system and is easier to show screenie than to type it all out.

 

And until I figure out the picture thing, here is the data:

These are with Prime95 running and FurMark running as stability test with extreme burn in and MSAAx8 (all the maxed settings). GPUs at stock speeds CPU OC'd to 2814 MHz

Before I cut the holes (max temps):
TZ00: 70
CPU Core#0: 64
CPU Core#1: 62
GPU Core#1: 86
GPU Core#2: 93
HDD1: 47
HDD2: 35

And after I cut the holes (max temps):
TZ00: 66
CPU Core#0: 59
CPU Core#1: 59
GPU Core#1: 87
GPU Core#2: 93
HDD1: 51
HDD2: 42

These are the maxes and after a bit they stabilized just a couple degrees lower.
So, any thoughs would be appreciated.

 

i heard that before. lol

that screen shot was just a warm day and i run dmc4 for about 8 minutes then checked my temps, took a screen shot and turned it off. there's no way i'm running my notebook that hot.
yeah you can add your pictures. just type this in before the picture(it is every even word if i put the word together it won't show)
1 [ 2 I 3 M 4 G 5]

then at the end of the picture do the same
1 [ 2 / 3 I 4 M 5 G 6 ]

 

that will work even if the image is stored locally on my machine? I know the html (php - same tags for the most part) tags but wanted to check as others showed a URL in the img tag.

 

no it needs to be upload if you don't have an website. i suggest tinypic. it's the best one i ever used.

 

sorry for all the posts, but here are my screen shots now if they offer you any more insight:

Idle after startup:


Full system Burn before holes cut:


Full system Burn after holes cut:

 

did you do the gpu as well?

 

I cut holes for both the cpu and gpu. The footprint of the fans of each are 80-90% exposed. I guess you also found it very odd that my GPU temps didn't really change? Keep in mind I have not yet reapplied the AS5 as I said I needed to in the other thread - but still should have seen some change right?