How to pinmod and further overclock the M11x R1 (SLG= Hardmod only)

both of my ram sticks are pc3-8500.
Would installing 10600 sticks make things more stable?

 

Does the integrated card have to be completely disabled? When I switch to the dedicated GPU, the integrated one is still enabled (checked via GPU-Z).

 

Your overclocking the northbridge, which raises the clock on EVERYTHING, memory, CPU, northbridge, PCIe, etc...

 

Will a faulty hard drive cause system hangs during overclocks?
My HDD has been dying for some time now, it fails SeaTools basic diagnostic tests and it wont be long before it completely fails.
Still waiting on an SSD, but can that be a reason i cant get past 1.8?

 

I doubt it. Harddrive doesn't affect processor performance, its probobly just that 1.8 is your limit. Do the 1.1v mod to get higher

 

I done pinmod and successful oc at 2.0 few day ago..but just now I restart my computer,setpll not working and I check setfsb and showing the tme is lock..then I disassemble it and clean it up..but the result is..I still can't over lock again..

 

Open it up again and make sure you didnt bridge any pins.

 

i open it up and check for 2hours and clean it,but it still remain the same i almost dig a hole on that pin..
and my keyboard light no working anymore T.T

 

I've said it before... DO NOT CUT THE PIN! When you cut the pin, it is 'floating' it could go to a high state(TME on) or a low state(TME off).

with the ICS pll there is a spot 1/8in away from the chip that you can solder a 10k resistor to. IRRC someone mentioned that you can take a SMD resistor and just bridge the gap.

 

yeah... im no good with a sodering iron and i was thinking about doing the pinmod when my warrenty expires so cutting is the only way to go for me i guess. Worst case scenario if i cut is that TME is still enabled and i am stuck at 1.6ghz right?

 

can you pls guide me a little bit?how to take a SMD resistor and bridge the gap? thanks alot for your infomation here

 

Looks like I'll be joining this club again...



Just traded my m860tu for a R1



Yes he got a good deal, but I needed something smaller with good bat life.

 

Has anyone used these?

Seem like a good middle road between crap and the hyperX...
Newegg.com - CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 204-Pin DDR3 SO-DIMM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Laptop Memory Model CMSX8GX3M2A1600C9

 

I outta do this mod, but just lazy. Started it at one point. Now my M11x is used for the couch and Folding@home.

 

I attempted to pin mod my SLG to 1.73ghz; by cutting pin 2 using a pin needle because I don't have a clue about soldering.

I cut the wrong pin. I was looking at the wrong diagram ; pin 56.

My M11x boots and runs just fine so stupid me decided to cut the right pin and went at it again.

Now when I'm in OC mode, my DRAM freq is at 299mhz. My bus speed is at 200mhz. Any help?

 

Here's a closer shot of what I did

 

You can't just cut a pins on the SLG...

 

please read...


You should be happy your system still works.

 

aKaBetty, if I'm correct you've just reverse the FL-B programming done by BIOS. what that means ?
Overclock Enabled: 6x multiplier, 2/3 memory ratio, 1200Mhz, lock low vpcu, 600mhz ram
Overclock Disabled: 6.5multiplier, 1/2 memory ratio, 1730Mhz, 1066mhz ram, EIST enable, SpeedStep & PwnManagement ON, dynamic vpcu
... so actually that's quite nice
PS: try using the BIOS Overclock Enabled/Disabled and see for yourself

 

No because with OC mode enable, it doesn't go pass 1.2ghz. With OC mode off, it goes to 1.3ghz. I think it's time for a new board.

whitrzac, i thought to get to 1.73ghz, I had to cut pin 2. It seems pretty straight forward if I didn't mess up on finding the right pin the first time. WHy do you mean it's not as simple as cutting a pin? I didn't expect to do the 333mhz pin mod. Am I missing something else for the 266mhz?

 

I will check for solutions to your problem by using some other mods:
1.please tell exactly what pins did you disconnect and if you intersect them by mistake
2.you can go to a electronic shop or some private phone repair service to resolder the pins [on phones the pins are very small so they are used to repair these kind of thing- this is the way I do my mods, I do the theoretical part and pictures, go to them and explain what I want. ~10$ for a mod work]

here's TME Unlock and FSLx mod made on Fujitsu Amilo Pi3560
http://students.info.uaic.ro/~vlad.ichimescu/MOD/amilo3560/OCmod/ICS9LPRS365_TME-unlock_FSLx-mod.png

 

I cut PIN 56 believing it was PIN 2. There didn't seem to be any effect after a few days of normal use and gaming. OC/Intel Speedstep all worked fine.

I cut PIN 2 on my 2nd attempt; the right one this time. After cutting PIN 2, the drawback came; I think I might have damage pin 2 while attempting to cut it since I went at it a few times.

My bus speed never goes higher than 199.5 200mhz use to go up to 266mhz
My rated FSB never goes higher than 799.1 800mhz use to go up to 1066mhz

This is with OC mode on or off. OC mode still performs the 2:3 ratio and 9V core.
My choice right now is Intel Speedstep on = up to 1.3ghz or overclock mode on = 1.2ghz.
In summary, my overclock mode functions as a underclock mode it seems .

 

The only data given on the datasheet...


Your CPU is running at the stock FSB of 800, now OC mode forces the 6.0 multi and not the faster fsb.


The datasheet is lacking... I have no clue what pin 56 does...

 

if you select overclock enabled: you get 1200mhz, right ? still, when overclock disabled: 1300mhz ?
6x vs 6.5x but the fsb is still 200mhz.

DO1: get a good magnifying glass and see if you intrerupted pins: 1, 2, 3, 55, 56, looking with no magnification you just think you intrerupted those, we need to be sure: SRC is clock generated for cpu-sata-pci for pll1 [from the pictures it looks like you hacked the board with a maceta )]

DO2: get setpll/setfsb, choose pll diagnostic and post a picture containing all bits [0C: change 0D to 16 > Update > Apply > Capture]

 

from 1600 to 1730 isn't worth the risk, going to 333 = 2000 using BIOS reprogram [for now I'm working on DSDT for triple boot - 90%done]

 

I will get back to you vlad. I will double check all pins. I will post update pics soon as I can. Thanks.
I attempted to do the 1.73ghz mod because I didn't know how to solder to get to 2.0ghz.

OC disable (Speedstep on) - 1.3ghz
OC on (Speedstep on) - 1.2ghz
OC disable (Speedstep off) - 1.2ghz

 

http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj534/deadboy90d/1329474363123.jpg

Just to be sure, if this were an ICS PLL THAT would be the pin to cut correct?

 

DO NOT CUT THE PIN!


Cutting the pin does not guarantee that the TME will be unlocked.

 

That is not the pin. My motherboard has the SLG PLL. You have the ICS which requires pin 14 I believe. Do not follow me .

 

i kno, my question was IF it were an ICS pll is that the right pin to mess with? I wanna be absolutly sure b4 i mess with it as my warrenty is comming up soon. (i was using your pic cuz its a pretty dam good one lol) And Whit, im no good with a sodering iron an as far as i can tell the worst case scenario is that the pin is floating and im stuck at 1.6 ghz right?

 

Sorry Vlad, I will make sure I pay more attention.

Here are the updated shots.

OC - on
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/3676/mmhz.png

OC - off
http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/3676/mmhz.png

 

aKaBetty, please pay more attention: you didn't do what I said, you modified the 0D register, I need you to mody the 0C register with the initial value 0D to 16 so I can see all registers; so please DO AGAIN like I say:
start SetFSB, go to DIAGNOSIS, select Clock Generator to PLL Diagnosis [not something else!] > Get FSB > 0C: 0D to 16 > Update/Apply > Get FSB > Capture
Please post 2 pictures, all enabled in bios only change overclock Enabled / Disabled.
preliminary thoughts: you intrerupted 2pin [probably first and last but I can tell you exactly which - I think ]



FROM first look you disabled:
Register 00 bit 6 which is FS_B
Register 0E bit 7 which is Vendor Test Mode

REGISTER: NORMAL => OVERCLOCK
00(6) : 41(1) => 01(0)
0E(3) : 09(1) => 01(0)

aKaBetty
REGISTER: NORMAL => OVERCLOCK
00(6) : 41(1) => 41( 1) FS_B IS OFF
0E(7) : 09(1) => 89( 1)

The datasheet doen't say what is bit 3 of register 14 but thanks to aKaBetty failure I will make some calculations ) [sorry]
aKaBetty in order to get you fixed I need to know all sceneries you got thru because for now I think 0E(7) has to do with multiplier/ratio, so please share your exact story like this:
on the original motherboard I intrerupted pin 55 [or is it 56?] because I thought it was pin 2 but my laptop still worked [was oc working? on/off, what fsb/multiplier/ram ratio], after that with the pin 55 still intrerupted I did this, that, exactly, as precise as you can be [ and please pay more attention to details!], I need to figure out something which isn't available on the datasheet - and yes ! I do think this is going to help us figure a way of OC off/on 166mhz/333mhz
sorry for my english[if are mistakes], I'm romanian
by the way, I'm sorry for you but helping us with the Alienware M11x will help you get fixed [I sleep only 4-5hours so I'm working on it, can reply quite fast]

 

Hey Vlad, I post the results on the previous post.
From the comparison, I see that 0E is different.

 

Well the confusion started when I relied on the datasheet model to locate pin #2. If you look at the diagram of the SLG PLL and at my pic of how I murder that pin, pin #2 are located in different positions; assuming that you follow the datasheet SLG model positioning of the pins. I soon found out the next morning after reading this thread which someguy, ajslay, or someone else mention before that PIN #1 starts at the arrow. Backtracking.

I used a pin size needle to cut 56 on the first try. I booted and everything was normal. So I figure I didn't cut the pin good enough so I went at the pin again. I booted and everything was normal again. So I went at the pin this time with a lot more patience since I was worried my screws were going to strip from taking the R1 apart so much so this was my final attempt. I tried as much to slice the pin on the inside closer to the chip. I booted the computer and I didn't notice any changes again so I gave up and used my R1 as usual throughout the day; reading on why I can't get to 1.73ghz by cutting PIN 2 on this thread. I understood that this mod will be hard on the RAM but I had 2x1gb and 2x4gb of rams; two from Dell. I try booting it with 2x1gb, 4gb of each ram, and 8gb together with no success. I thought it might be the RAM and it just couldn't take it. But that's when I found out I was cutting the wrong PIN this whole time.

Eager to give it another shot and since my R1 ran fine for a day, I went to try to cut pin 2 during my second attempt at this mod. If you look at the pic that you mention looked like I machete it, well that's because I ran into issues with this pin. I think I tried about 10x on this pin; 7x more than pin 56. The picture shows Pin 56 doesn't look too bad at all compared to Pin 2. I was more aggressive with Pin 2. It wasn't until my 6th try I believe is when I realize I ran into my issue. The issue being my computer no longer overclocks. During that attempt, I pushed the pin inwards. That is the only thing I can think of. Not once did I get the 7 beeps.

The bus speeds, ram ratios, multipliers were all normal until my 6th try.
I was getting my 1.6ghz at 266mhz x 6.0 multipliers. My rated FSB was 1066mhz and my DRAM freq was at 400mhz.


Don't be sorry. I am grateful you are helping and I can help in anyway. I already expect to pay for a new motherboard.
I am just experimenting now with this board since it still works.
I'm about to try to cut PIN 32 from VID MOD but I think I might be wrong about it being that easy too .

 

aKaBetty - what's happening is your OC mode is setting a different BSEL to the CPU/chipset but is not being propogated to the PLL to set 266Mhz. This This is why OC mode sees the CPU goes into lowest multiplier (x6) and runs lowest voltage. That is:

OC mode: cpu/chipset received a 266Mhz BSEL, PLL receives a 200Mhz BSEL
non OC mode: cpu/chipset receives a 200Mhz BSEL, PLL receives a 200Mhz BSEL.

This makes sense. While the bios has send a "0" to FS_B to set 266Mhz, you've cut the pin so it never gets it. Appears your FS_B pin remains high "1". The PLL must have an internal weak pull up resistor.

Unless you can GND pin2 the best bet is for you to wire 1/1/1 to FS_C/B/A to run 300Mhz PLL speed. That will be 6x300=1.8Ghz in OC mode. You could be brave and try 300x6.5 in non-OC mode but if it fails you may need to reverse the PLL mod just to get back into the bios and set OC mode.

SLG FSLC/B/A

200Mhz=0/1/0 (non-OC mode)
266Mhz=0/0/0 (OC mode)
300Mhz=1/1/1
333Mhz=1/0/0

FS_C=pin 7
FS_B=pin 2
FS_A=pin 20

 

aKaBetty, your overclock mode just sets the lower voltage to a lower multiplier with the same Mhz, the CPU will not be the problem at all, but the ram because it's 1/2 ratio on OCdisabled 1200Mhz CL6
nando4, like always, is right
I recommed to go on a phone service down the street, they can undo the harm done by soldering with a magnifying glass
OR
http://forum.notebookreview.com/ali...1-owners-lounge-part-4-a-359.html#post8322885
I explained there the index to all FS-x combinations

PS: I would try pinmoding all FS-x getting:
from 010 - 000
to 101 - 111 [100mhz PowerSaver - 300Mhz HighPerformance]
but will the system boot at 100mhz ?

 

Thanks for your help guys.
Can you please explain to me Nando what "high 1" means?

 

Digital Logic 101...

The chip doesn't understand what 'run at this speed' means. So they set 4-5 pins to be a 1(high) or 0(low) depending on what speed you want.

 

I feel lazy today...


How do I get setPLL to run on startup?

 

Thanks for clarifying. I will ask my local repair shops to see if they can do the 300mhz mod for me or order a new board and make this my first soldering job; that will require reading whitzrac guide over and over and that could take ages .

I am wondering if I should try to GND pin 2 like Nando said (when I actually learn how to do this) and attempt at the 333mhz at that point.

 

whitrzac CommandPrompt Dos WinNT 101 )
make a .bat or .cmd file [or .vbs] with the application location and the parameters you want to set fsb at with an optional delay[if your chip can't take instant set-I tested on multiple machines, some of them worked without], just like [put these on a setpll.cmd and move it to StartUp or better to registry Run], or make a shortcut of the .exe with the parameters in the .lnk

aKaBetty if you want to sell the board as it is, pm me as I'm interested for development of Alienware M11x [99% working triple boot, native OS X 10.7.3 completed]

 

Don't mean to sound rude or anything but I never got an answer to my question in my previous post: is that the right pin to mess with if it were an ics pll?

 

Sorry deadboy, I wanted to answer you but I've been wrong so far. I was hoping other people will point you to the right direction.

Assuming you still use my pic as a reference, yes. I finally saw that you marked the pin in a small red dot that I missed the first time when you post the inquiry. If you look at the first post on where pin 14 is located and compare it to my pic, pin 14 should be the 12th pin on the right hand side of where I strip PIN 2; where you marked it.


I base this pin location is the same for ICS/SLG PLL chips based on the arrow as a guideline when comparing both pics. I could be wrong but it seems to match up according to the pic by OP.

 

sorry deadboy90, I haven't read the ICS datasheet, however leaving FSx floating is hell no good idea, better gnd it with 10k, but you need to know what you want: 0/1 bit on the register/byte/pin
READ the first post ! it's clear like ... very clear indeed )
The pinmod consists of disconnecting the TME pin from the PLL, which is in this case, PIN 14. By disconnecting PIN 14, it is possible to unlock the PLL, allowing it to be controlled by SetFSB for further overclocking.
This means it will allow you to overclock by software methods [setfsb/setpll], it's unlocking the ICS, not FSx moding it; if you want the overclock to be induced directly hardware you can do the FSx mod [option: do both TME-unlock & FLx mod]

the 1st pin is where the little plastic dot is, that's the mark on the pll
my advice: do the TME-unlock, test the system using both OC Enabled/Disabled at maximum speed, cross the result and if result > combination(min-max[OCdisabled-OCenabled] of the FS-x index I wrote somewhere on this forum ) then do the FSx too
http://forum.notebookreview.com/ali...1-owners-lounge-part-4-a-359.html#post8322885
I won't make any mod until I find a way to use both Overclock options, as I posted in the previous link

 

all experts and users with experience, take a shot and answer !

Right now, without bios mod you can pinmod FS-A, FS-B AND FS-C and you will get 100mhz*6.5 when OC Disabled and 300mhz*6 when OC Enabled with NO risk [99.9% sure]
FROM
200 to 266
010 to 000
TO
100 to 300
101 to 111
but will it boot at 100Mhz fsb ? that means: 100Mhz FSB, 400Mhz RAM&Northbridge, I personally think it's 30-70 to win-loss
if that will work, next job: lower vcpu bios when overclock disabled [those with ICS can test more situations] and gain easy 12hours battery life [now I get >10h when just use the machine for reading with Integrated Graphics]

 

"Let's do this thing!"

 

ok thanks guys, i was 99.999% sure that was the right one but are you saying that if i cut it and the pin is floating that it could negatively affect my system? What could happen if the pin ends up floating? would I still be able to get the 1.6 ghz standard OC?

 

yes...

On the ICS pll...
You see that empty spot where a resistor would go?(left of the pin) You can solder a small piece of wire to that, then through a 10k resistor to the copper by a screw.

For wire, get a pair of $1 earbuds and use the wire out of those. It is very thin and coated with a noncunductive coating. Tin the wires on the end(may take 5-10sec to burn the coating off) and place it on top of the 'pad' closest to the ICS pll, place the soldering iron on top of the wire and give a gentle push. Everything should melt nicely together.


I have pics somewhere in this thread of exactly what you need to do.

Buy a 25w iron from somewhere with a pointy tip(think pencil) not a flat tip. Buy some electrical solder( 60/40 rosin core if they have it).

Keep a wet washcloth/paper towel near by to clean the tip. It should always be shiny to to the point you can almost see yourself.


The very point of the tip will never get hot enough to work, you have to use the side(where the wood would start on a pencil)




The orange end is cold


If I can do it hyped up on caffeine anyone should be able to do it.

 

No clue....



IRRC the last time I did it, it was an exe file...

 

You can convert a .bat file to an .exe using some programs, however I recommend the combination .bat + registry>Run or the more elegant method [untested]
You can change to your desire by modifying the freq instead 266 place the values found in Alienware-m11xR1.lut [check it with notepad++]
like: c:\setpll\setPLL.bat Alienware-m11xR1 200.266.300 3
TO RESET type in cmd or make a bat with the following command:

Go to setpll-10f.exe
Extract to C:\setpll\

1.
make a file autoPLL.bat with the following content:

move the autoPLL.bat to StartUP folder OR put it in the registry>Run

2.
OR [untested-my mind tells me it's code is correct but don't know how Windows reacts]
make autoPLL.reg on Desktop and execute it [after you can remove the .reg you just created, it have already did the job after executed]