How to pinmod and further overclock the M11x R1 (SLG= Hardmod only)

im totally no idea with my m11x ,its keep floating and tme is enable however i clean the pin,and now alienfx is work messy

 

In this post the bit order is: FS_A, FS_B, FS_C [normally in the datasheet is FS_C, FS_B, FS_A]

I am trying to underclock the system when OC Disabled and overclock the system when OC Enable [this should be portable, remember ?]
200-266
010-000
---------------------------------------------------------------------
HARDWARE ONLY SOLLUTION [ keeping software system by Alienware]:
100-300
101-111

FS_A, FS_B, FS_C mod without cuting pin2 [FS_B] lead it to GND
FS_A lead to 3.3V
FS_B lead to GND without cuting OR do the scheme: INITIAL: board->-pllFS_B, AFTER: board->-resistor10K->-pllFS_B [need to preserve the FS_B bios changing mechanism, however need to change initial bit] IDEAS?
FS_C lead to 3.3V
---------------------------------------------------------------------
SOFTWARE & HARDWARE SOLUTION:
166-333
110-001

reprogram BIOS to change every bit from FS_X, [like BIOS does to FS_B]
FS_A lead to 3.3V
---------------------------------------------------------------------
[according to abo (creator setFSB), this pll is not software programmable- because it's datasheet sucks ? if Dell did it thru BIOS then need BIOS reverse engineering ASM]
Flashing wrong BIOS to M11x R1 means almost no risk, at least as I can figure out because of the hardware safe recovery key_END [bios moded with +0.5v screwed my M11x when set Graphics: Discrete]

PS: aKaBetty if you want to get out of this mess, I already found the solution for your trouble but will leave us unanswered [or me at least 'cuz I don't see others geting involved] - it's ok for me to make a donation to buy you another board if this one bricks [for everyone's sake I am struggling], hope they will donate as well to get you another board if you continue with me and something gets wrong

[recalculated - now it's OK]

 

I am with you all the way on this one. Donations aren't necessary. If I brick it somehow, it's my inexperience and I'm the one to blame; I will buy myself a new board. I am just glad I can contribute; hopefully .

I just have to read and watch more soldering videos as well as do some experiments with old pci boards I have laying around as practice. I picked up the same soldering iron today that some_guy was so kind to link us; bought another one where the tip was a little too big so I went back to exchange it.

 

NOTE:
!this is for SLG8SP556
!original datasheet order is FS_C, FS_B, FS_A
!my calculations FS order is FS_A, FS_B, FS_C
!cuting a pin does guarantee that it will be disabled because the pll has internal resistor?

100 - 133 - 166 - 200 - 266 - 300 - 333 - 400
101 - 100 - 110 - 010 - 000 - 111 - 001 - 011

oc enabled/disabled [no mods]
FMHZ 200 - 266
FS_X 010 - 000

oc enabled/disabled + FS_A enabled + FS_C enabled [preserve BIOS OC Switch but invert the FS_B > without cuting pin2 lead to GND ?]
[don't know if system will start at 100Mhz <=best choice, PowerSaver and HighPerformance]
FMHZ 100 - 300
FS_X 101 - 111

oc enabled/disabled + FS_B disabled
FMHZ 266 - 266
FS_X 000 - 000

oc enabled + FS_B disabled + FS_C enabled + VIDmod [this should be the choice of gamers or HighPerformance only]
FMHZ 333 - 333
FS_X 001 - 001


Instructions and Code Explanations:
OC enabled/disable: you can use the original BIOS options to oc
OC enabled: you must set the BIOS OC Enabled [if OC Disabled the system most probably FAILS]
FMHZ: FSB Mhz freq
FS_X: acronym used for any of FS_A, FS_B, FS_C
FS_X enabled: cut and route to 3.3V via 10k resistor
FS_X disabled: cut and route to GND via 10k resistor
VIDmod: turn off pin32 on voltage regulator for more vcore

FS_A: pin 20
FS_B: pin 2
FS_C: pin 7


Having unlocked more options is really not necessary because are not direct advantages, actually leaving it as original is perfect.
Why wanting the inability to change the OverClock Mode and leave it just to OverClock Enabled ? pinmod to 333Mhz and reseting the Bios will make the system unbootable because of the ram ratio 3:4 [OverClock Enabled] vs 1:2 [OverClock Disabled], meaning we want to block the BIOS to OverClock Enabled [described the situations]

-set OverClock to Enabled
-set Graphics to Discrete
-hide Advanced > OverClock Enabled/Disabled or even better, make it read-only OverClock Enabled
-as default, after bios flash or reset, the system is set to Overclock Enabled and Graphics Discrete
-Exit > Load Setup Defaults sets to OverClock Enabled and Graphics Discrete
[optimisations]
-set ultra dma mode 6
-set 32 bit i/o enabled

on both S_Default and M_Default

note: flashing, reseting or loading default options sets the OverClock to Enabled and Graphics Discrete

I will mod the BIOS as soon as possible, or if anyone already have the tools, please let it be done
temp server http://students.info.uaic.ro/~vlad.ichimescu/MOD/

 

Finally got the pin mod working for 266mhz PIN 2. After closer examination thanks to Vlad's pat on the back to go for it, PIN 2 has been destroyed and now I achieve 1.73ghz with OC mode off. In my case, cutting PIN 2 was not a clear instruction for me. Obliterate PIN 2 is more like it. I updated a pic for you Vlad with my new PLL diagnostic results after changing 0C = value 16. PM me if I'm good to go for the next phase.

Unfortunately, one of my 4GB PNY sticks refuse to boot with this setting; bad stick probably. So I'm stuck using its twin (my other 4GB) at running the system at 4GB; which is plenty. My 2x1GB RAM sticks by Dell (Hynix) booted just fine as well.


OC mode on
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/9985/ocon.jpg

OC mode off
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/1215/ocoff.jpg

 

cpu/chipset although are the same, differs, meaning that you may need or need not the VoltMod - in two hours I'll have the answer for mine
now you can test your memory at 1066 [my 8GB 1333 Corsair are not stable, however I'm using Samsung 1066 and it's ok so I can continue]

ATENTION: be carreful, I recommend you do this now and leave as it in case you forget !

Go to Bios > Advanced > Overclock Enabled [most important thing, never ever turn OverClock to Disabled from now on]
cut pin7 [FS_C] and route it to 3.3V via 10k resistor
Boot the system and play a little with it, if you have instability or doesn't start, then do the VIDmod, that should do the trick

UPDATE:
pin 2 cut on pll
pin 7 cut and routed to 3.3V via 10k resistor on pll
pin 32 cut on voltage regulator
result: 333Mhz x 6 = 2Ghz, 8GB DDR3 1333Mhz Corsair perfect stable system

 

But can it run Battlefield 3 well now? xD


considering getting an R1 for like 400$ on craigslist..

my money is running on bf3 playablity

 

I now have Alienware M11x R1 Intel C2D U7300 2.0Ghz, 8GB DDR3 1000Mhz CL6, nVidia GT 335M 550/1350/880 [will try to hardware vmod the gpu to overclock further], Corsair 120GB SSD Sata3 and is running great ! [I'll make some videos running triple boot, some games maybe... later tomorrow]
max temp are ~60 when fully benchmarked and under torture tests [Arctic Silver]

you could google for this kind of answers [this guy posted his checkout]:
Battlefield 3 Beta gameplay on my M11x R1 - YouTube

 

NICE! we have another successful OCed R1 user.

congrats man.

 

thanks some guy and another one is coming as well: aKaBetty

I would like to make on this particular machine:
hardware/bios GPU voltage increase [there is a bios mod available but I've tested before making the pinmod and setting Graphics to Discrete screw the bios]
[be careful!] - you are not allowed to make bios recovery or flash until a new Bios mod with default settings is available: OverClock Enabled [the default option now is OverClock Disabled]

I would like to have the following setting in BIOS [I'll take a look by the weekend, break time until then]:
-set OverClock to Enabled
-set Graphics to Discrete
-Advanced > OverClock Enabled [make it read-only]
-as default, after bios flash or reset, the system is set to Overclock Enabled and Graphics Discrete
-Exit > Load Setup Defaults sets to OverClock Enabled and Graphics Discrete
[optimisations]
-set ultra dma mode 6
-set 32 bit i/o enabled
-increase voltage on discrete gpu +0.5 [when OverClock Enabled and Graphics Discrete]



UPDATE: I'm looking for a capacitive touchscreen for my M11x

+Triple Boot
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0pMNDL6CQA

 

Has anyone done a Vmod with an ICS PLL?

 

the trick to cutting pin 2 on an SLG is using a needle... do not dig. you have to "pick" at the pin very carefully, and make sure you don't leave a huge divot in your motherboard. use a magnifying glass to see if your pin is fully disconnected, and if it isnt, keep picking at it. and make sure you use compressed air and blow it on and around the pll chip, this will insure there is no residue left over.. iv done this pin mod over 10 times now. and never bricked a board.

 

Hey guys!
New here and just wanted to say I was able to successfully able to do the cut pin2 mode and am sitting at the 1.73 ghz.

Just waiting for a friend to get access to a solder iron and will attempt the next part!

and for all to wonder (and its obviously stated many times over and over), THESE PIN ARE REALLY REALLY REALLY SMALL!!!!

The method I used involved using a round blade from my swiss arm knife, pressing on the pin with a slow wiggle. Literally pushing into and the prying the pins apart. I then used a needle to make sure none of the residue bridged any of the other pins.
I dont know if anyone mentioned it, but for me, the best way to cut was to go directly down from the chip onto the pin. You could use the chip as sort of a guide to (dare i say) gullitoine the pin.

And dont forget to turn off overclock afterwards to enable it!

I've read this thread from start to finish and I gotta say, some_guy, you got a LOT of patience with folks that do not read the thread and keep asking you the same question over and over and over again. Kudos to you!

 

Hey guys,
So I've gone and attempted the 2.0 ghz mod with the slg chip.
Sad to say, i'm not exactly sure what's going on.
I had previously did the 1.73 ghz mod, and turned overclock back on before attempting the next mod. My graphics was still set to "switchable".

I got some friends to go and solder the chip for me since they had all the equipment they needed. They used a meter of sorts to check that the connections between the resistor and the power source is good.
I also went ahead and did the vidmod too (though instead of cutting the pin, they cut the trace to the pin. I was told by them that this is essentially the same thing...)

I'm running on 8gb corsair memory sticks.

So after the operation, I turned on the computer and load and behold, it ran and attempted to start up windows. Thats when the problems started. Windows failed to start, and I wasnt sure exactly why... Im curious if its due to the graphics driver? After that, I turned it off, and attempted to turn it on again... and then I get the blank screen and 7 beeps.
Opened up the board again and looked at the pins and they appear to be clear and clean. Closed it back up, restarted it, and windows ran again and again it failed to load.

So, basically the situation above repeats after that. I can either start up the system and watch windows fail, or the system will basically not start up and beep 7 times.
There was one time while running windows recover, I get a bluescreen.

Am I doing something wrong here? Was I suppose to have the graphics settings at something specific like "discrete"?

I'll be attempting to only use one stick of ram at a time next.... am I attempting to debug this correctly by doing this? or am I SOL already?

Thanks for any advice!

 

thank you!

and congrats on getting 1.73ghz!

sounds like you did everything right. the first thing i would do is try out different RAM (or just one stick at a time, etc). normally we are hitting RAM limits before anything else. i have personally have tried several different brands/speeds/density's including highend expensive RAM and i actually had the best luck with the stock RAM and the basic GSkills i have now. go figure?

it is possible that your north bridge may just not be up to snuff. we have seen the same north bridge running all the way up to 1600mhz in a different laptop but no one has mentioned what voltage it was running to maintain that speed. and there currently is no volt mod for the north bridge on the M11x R1...

i doubt its your CPU tho. if you could run 1.73 on the stock Vcore then i see no reason that you could run a tad higher on more Vcore.

 

Hey!

So I'll try out different RAM's first then. I was going to get my electrical engineer friend to recheck the cut on the vidmod part, to make sure it was a clean cut on the trace.

A couple of new things have happened since. First off, the system was able to boot up and load windows consistently now (but only after leaving it alone for a while). When I get it to boot up on windows, it would eventually lock up (screen freezes, no more mouse movement, but NOT bsod). I was able to get cpuz running a few times when this occurs and it shows i am clocked at 2.0ghz! However, it seems now to be a stability issue.

I just wanted to reconfirm that the following could be attributed to RAM issues and not a bad vidmod cut (but I understand that it could also be both!).
So, on a boot up after about 5-10 or more minutes of it being off, I can get to windows and it would run for about... 3 or 4 minutes before it would lock up. Afterwards, the following could occur:
a. I reboot and it loads windows again
b. I reboot and it fails to load windows
c. I reboot and it gets to the alienware login with option to get to the bios and locks.
d. I reboot and the screen remains black.
e. I reboot and get the 7 beeps.
f. I reboot and the screen turns on, then off.

I just want to confirm that the above could all be due to a bad ram stick? Or could it be a flaky vid mod cut leaving residual power in ram or something cause the following issues? So far, if i leave it alone for a few minutes and then power on, it would make it to the windows boot up. After that however, it just does the random errors.


On a side note, I did play around with using only 1 stick of ram or another, but the results were just inconsistent but leaving it alone for a while and then booting up seems to get to windows with the most success (before it locks up again).

thanks for the help!

 

@zero410 ... well, I'm not as patience as some guy is )
however:
you should've test the ram, using Overclock Disabled when 1.73Ghz [266mhz] meaning your ram is 1066 at CL6

I've posted my results:
2x4GB Corsair 1333Mhz
using only one ram was stable anytime
using both rams was stable everytime unless the situation just described [overclock disabled - 266*4] when BSOD 7/10

my original Alienware M11x ram was Samsung 1066Mhz and was stable in any situation

now:
pin mod and voltage mod, OverClock Enabled, 333Mhz, Graphics Discrete [so I don't need to use y Dell old drivers], 8GB Corsair 1333Mhz, 120GB Corsair SSD sata3- running on triple boot

your problem: you did the SLG pin mod to 333Mhz, but how about the voltage regulator - pin 32 to enable higher voltage to cpu

info: when you were running 1.73, you got higher voltage [overclock disabled] than you get when overclock disabled, so ya... you need to voltmod by cutting pin 32 on voltage regulator

 

Hi,
Yeah I've gone through the RAM i had, using one stick at a time, but the behavior seems consistent with my problems listed above.
It just keeps freezing up and locking up after the first boot (which makes it all the way to windows) and then it refuses to boot up properly again unless I wait it out.

I'm pretty sure I mentioned it above, but I did cut pin 32 (albeit done by cutting the trace... not the actual pin, which my engineering friends pointed out should be the way its done). I just wish I knew if the pin was actually cut or not... and annoyingly my system doesnt stay on long enough for me to get software on there to find this out. CPUZ reads its still a 0.9v, but it seems thats correct as a few successful moders show the same thing.

Was there any way to check if the volt pin was completely removed?
On a side note, anyone else notice that it would turn on, and die, but each subsequent boot would result in less progress? I'm really curious if I may just not have applied the thermal paste correctly onto the processors and its just overheating (with the rest of the mod done correctly).

I also went out and got some cheaper RAM as someguy seems to have success with this, but as it shows, the different RAM is behaving exactly the same as my corsairs 1333mhz (I went and tried kingston value ram at 1066MHZ, but like i said, exact same behavior).

Any thoughts? I'll be taking it to a friend tomorrow to check if the pin was cut correctly... but these start up and shuts downs just seem very suspicious to me that I maybe having heating issues instead possibly...

Thanks for any help!

 

sadly i dont know of any other way to test for the VID mod othe than temp monitoring (CPU-Z does not report the Actual Vcore brcause it reads off the value sent not the actual Vcore recived by the CPU). i was noticing a raise in temps with the VID mod and so i assumed DaveGT & Nando were correct in how/why the VID mod worked. later i used the ViD mod on a M11x than wasnt stable with the 2.0ghz mod. and it became stable after so this double confirmed it worked.

 

Well, I'm really sad by this now.

I'll have a look at the pin and make sure its really disconnected. I have no idea if it is or not right now so will need to wait for a friend to take a look at it with a microscope or something.

However, does the low volt or bad ram explain the odd behavior I'm having?
To be honest, I just took it apart again and found that my cpu fan wasnt plugged in... which would probably explain the problem on why it would work for a bit and then lock up. I've plugged that back in, confirmed the fan is running, but the problem now seems to persist.
i'll let to really cool down for a bit now and retry.

I do have another question though, when I was taking the head sink apart, I saw 3 chips... 2 of them had thermal paste on it, while the last one had... a sponge thing on it? Is that correct? would accidentally putting thermal paste on the sponge one mess it up?

Aside from that, I still cant confirm if my ram is stable... but i'll let the whole thing cool down, pray that i didnt burn anything, and boot it up again...

 

Okay, just looking at the whole thing and it's still behaving the same way.

I guess my real question is... just what kind of errors am I suppose to see if say my vidmod did not work?
What I'm seeing is the system basically halting at various point... where the longer I leave it alone before turning it on, the further it gets before locking up.
by locking up, I mean the screen basically freezes. Whatever was left on the screen stays there, but no more progress happens. It would freeze when windows is loading, or when windows is up, or when checkdisc is running midway, and what not...
for this kind of lock up, is it due to the lack of power to the cpu? or is it RAM?

I'm being a little bit naive about this, but how could it possible that this high a percentage of RAM is just no good for the system?
(speaking of which, can the bad ram, or ram limit cause these kinds of errors? or should I be seeing bsods and what not for it?)

thanks!

 

its gonna be hard to tell if its the RAM or CPU if you dont have other RAM to at least try out and see the results.

worst case senerio i can mail you one of my sticks that i know works. if you promise to send it back to me.

one other thing you could try is, try to disable the Nvidia gfx as soon as you boot up. i when i was doing testing way back when i seen the system was less stable with RAM that couldnt hold the OC when the Nvidia gfx was on. i would test with it turned and i would pass entire runs of Intel burn. if i ran the test again with Nvidia enabled. the video would freeze or the driver would crash with in minutes or seconds. also make sure you heat sink is properly mounted and the fan cable is plugged in.

 

Thanks some guy.
i may take you up on your offer there, but i'll do it after rechecking that I did everything right. My main concern right now would be to know if the video freezing up, and then if my inability to boot further without having the system off for a while is infact due to the pinmod, or if its something else.
You never encountered any of these problems when you were testing your ram did ya?

An on the heatsink part, there was that one piece with the purple spongey pad... what is that?

FYI. I am able to constant get into windows now, and switching video drivers, and attempts to open cpuz ONLY after I leave the system alone for a while. The screen will then freeze up and i'll need to power it down, and subsequent power ups will have me freeze up an earlier times. This sounds like a heating issue... can I get an opinion on that? From what I can tell my fan isnt spewing out loads of heat though (and yes, its plugged in now.)

 

the spongy pad it meant to be there. thats the north bridge. the other 2 plate go on the CPU and Nvidia GFx.

it does sound like a heating issue. personally i would clean off the old thermal paste & re-install the heatsink with new thermal paste. dont put any paste on the spongy pad. just leave that one alone.

the fan cant really move any heat if the heatsink isnt touching the chips with good contact. the heat would stay on the chips and thats why you would be shutting down so often.

i would really look into doing a re-paste job.

 

Yeah, that's what I figure.
Okay! Now we have some direction!
So I shouldnt need to put thermal paste onto that spongy pad then?
If I did, am I S.O.L?
I'll look into getting some better thermal paste... I got impatient and went and got dynex paste instead of the popularly used acrylic silver.

 

if you got any on the pad just wipe off the excess. you will be fine.

to be honest the Dynex stuff will be just fine. ive used that on many CPUs in the past when i couldn't wait for something to ship from newegg or whatever. if you really want to get some AS5 quick. i think its carried at radio shack for about double what it cost online.

you will only notice a tiny difference in temps, if any at all.

 

Okay, thanks some guy!
To be honest, I've never actually applied thermal paste before and it seems online shows that I only needed a thin film on top (i should barely be able to see the chip still).
I'll try putting a little more on and see how that goes!

So I'm assuming though that if its not a heating issue, then my screens should be more consistent on where it gets to before freezing up? Or would the cpu or ram limit still make it a wild card to deal with?

 

wild card. ive had systems that were fine untill you put them under heavy load and would freeze instantly. others would just do it randomly.

with out using Ram that is known to work there is no way to really know. in the case that its the CPU you can try a higher Vcore. but i have never tried that. but i could try to find a easy VID mod for you. keep us posted on how the re-pate goes. dont forget to completely clean off the chips before adding new paste. q-tips work awesome.

 

So I've gone and reapplied the paste, did all the ram swapping back and forth that I could think of... but I think in the end, my cpu just couldn't handle it

Thankfully, taking the connection right now solved EVERYTHING, so i'm just going to have to settle for 1.73 ghz. I'll have to try again the next time I'm not feeling so impatient and easily scared and frustrated when the screen decides to not boot up

Thanks for the help some guy! I have to say for me, the best knowledge I had with this adventure was to know that i could very easily go back by just cutting the connection! I'll update here again when I attempt this again

 

Hmm... Odd question...
I just got the CoreTemp program installed, and heres the odd thing.

I have my system with just the pin 2 cut, but I had also thought I cutted pin 32. Now that I've undone my 2.0 ghz mode, and with CoreTemp installed, there's a field there saying my VID is 0.9750v ... is this correct? Is this an accurate way to tell if my VID cut was done right? '

 

did the RAM that you used test out to be stable @ 1000mhz (Cas6) in another PC?

if not you technically still dont know that the CPU is the slacker. i understand if your tired of opening up your M11x and messing around inside. (oh boy, have i been there before) but just want to help you understand that it might still be possible to get 2.0Ghz.

if you dont have access to stable RAM i can mail you one of my sticks i know is stable @ 1000Mhz (Cas6) and you can try it out. you just gotta promise to send it back.

as far as the VID thing. we haven't found a sure way to monitor it yet. from what i can tell CPU-z reports the value sent to the PLL by the system but not the actual value that the CPU is receiving. so when you mod the VID the value can only be confirmed by measuring temp variations or stability changes.

we have the data sheet for this PLL and we can try different VID if you want to try them out?

 

Huh... After a long time of giving up on my m11x pinmod, I read some posts again. Seems that I have the problem where with OC disabled, I see a 1.2 Ghz in PC properties, but in CPU-Z I have just realized I am getting 1.3 Ghz, and a BUS speed of 200 Mhz.

I'm outdated now in the matter and my english isnt treating me well. The point is that I have gotten confused with all the new pinmod things out there and I am not undestanding anything. I would like to ask for help, a clue on where to start. Danke. Thanks.

P.D.Edit: For what I've read, I most probably have cut the pin no. 56 instead of pin no. 2(though I have no way of opening my lappy again until tomorow since I am on vacation), but is there any solution for this? (I am tight on budget and I don't have a soldering device). I also get freezes and crashes at least twice a day. It is getting on my nerves. It is also odd that I am getting better FPS now in Skyrim but lower in Minecraft(LOL). Also a little Note* The Firewire has never worked(since the first day), so is it a bad motherboard?

I also had been able to do the OC 5 or 6 times, and no more. I had gotten to the 2.0 Ghz stable OC, showing up in CPU-Z. I haven't found out yet what is the cause of not being able to get the OC again.

In addition, in setpll when I read the sectors in 09 im getting an A5 turnout value, and that, from what I read in the past, it means that, theoretically, I could do the OC with no problem. Since I'm a bit lost now, I ask for help(Otherwise, if I had understood the last 70 pages of the forum, I wouldn't be asking for help) Thank you in advance.

 

Please check the infos I gathered and read the sollutions I gave to aKaBetty, he had the same problems:

Web Console - Download

If you still have problems, reply the same as I asked aKaBetty to do, the little story and some pics from Cpu-z beeing very short but explicit
update: I did a mod switch; having this I am able to switch between 1.73 with speedstep [for battery] to 2.0Ghz with one flick of a finger [I'll upload to my host and post here when I'll finish - still making it look good, really good ] - tested every way, rock solid !

 

hi, i want to do FSLx pinmod in acer nav50 with pll ics9lprs387bklf

i would like moral hazard, nando4, davygt, dufus etc to give me an answer (i dont know how to send private messages in this forum):

what if i cut pin20? is it safe? will it affect usb bus? please see pics:

ICS PLL:


INTEL NM10 CHIPSET


MODIFICATIONS


manufacture date of my laptop is march 2010, so modification 09/03 is implemented, and what is T64 at the end of pin 20 bus?

full schematics: http://lqv77.com/download/849/

please help

 

Hello

Dared to pin mod my M11x r1
At my first try, my r1 did not boot, and made some light show and beeping
So I checked pin 14 again and hacked it with a pin
Second try my r1 just made a light show, no beeping
So I hacked pin 14 again a little more
Third try, it did not boot
And again I hacked pin 14 until there's no any traces left of it
And again my r1 did not boot, nor made the light show, nor beeping

Nothing...

As I was slowly accepting that the possibility that I bricked it, I notice that some of power cable flex's pins were gone...

With the help of a fellow Alienware user he suggested that I make a DIY power flex cable using a DVD or CD flex cable, I just have to cut the excess pins... He's cool enough to invite me in his office and assist in making one...Thank dude

Place it on my r1 and it did not boot up... My friend suggested to put some RAM first

And after placing my RAMs and Hdd...It boots up

Now I have a M11X r1 with 1.9Ghz procie, 0.9.5v bios volt mod, 3G and GPS and Altec Lansing internal speakers

Thanks for the guide

 

say what?

is this a mod or is that OEM?

 

Mod I made

 

do want!

pics or link to thread?

thanks.

 

Will be posting some pics or maybe a video later
here: http://forum.notebookreview.com/alienware-m11x/656611-m11x-r1-speaker-mod-those-who-want-way-better-audio-games-music.html

 

ok, some pictures and explaining to do:
Using extra passive cooling does the following:
-the fan is starting seldom but longer because of the heat transfer
-when the system is cool and you heat it up, it will take longer [system is silent]
-when the system is hot and you want to cool it, it will take longer [fan is going for a longer time]
I recommend to do this mod ONLY if your system overheats [it will keep the temperature to medium most of the time]


Second mod and most important: battery friendly but still oc VS full performance
-When the system is set to OC Enabled and switcher is ON, the CPU is set to 2.0Ghz with no downclocks [no speedstep but simply maximum performance]
-When the system is set to OC Disabled and switcher is OFF, the CPU is set to 1.73Ghz with downclock [speedstep is working and can lower to 1Ghz]







FACTS:
-When traveling: OC Disabled [1Ghz], Graphics Integrated, wifi and bt off, minimum brightness, etc - maximum battery > 10hours for pdf reading
-When working: OC Enabled [2Ghz], Graphics Discrete and GPU OC 585/1405/895
-using an ssd makes this machine awsome ! when oc off, watching a movie make the system perfectly silent, no buzz or vibration from ssd, no fan
-reseting your bios leads to no problem now, just a flip of the switch and you're going

 

please re-size pics...

 

glad to see someone else is using a switch.

how are you getting 1Ghz? 166mhz bus OC mode on?

i thought about running a 3way switch a while back but totally forgot all about it. (your post reminded me all about it )

position 1 would close 3.3v to pin7. with OC mode on this would be 2.0Ghz
position 2 would leave the circuit open (for defaults with Bios updates ect...)
position 3 would close 3.3v to pin20. with OC mode on this would be 800Mhz

i wanted the switch to be accessible from the out side like yours but recessed so i wouldn't bump it into the wrong position when handling it.

 

I thought about putting it in the right back of the laptop, but I chose the place for kensington lock, in the future I will use a flat switcher, like this:

or maybe:

 

I dont know what happened but my TME became suddenly enabled back on. Im using the M11xR1. Do i need to cut the pin again?

 

Hi guys,

I have m11x R1 with ICS, and ages ago I cut pin 14 - this had no effect on the TME so I resigned that I was stuck at 1600mhz, however as the m11x r1 is getting on abit now, it could really do with a slight mhz bump to assist with newer games.

my 335gt runs stable at a very helthy overclock (600mhz on core) but I feel im not benefiting from it since im CPU bottlenecked.

Am i still stuck at 1600mhz since Ive no pin14, and TME remains locked still?


Thank you.

 

Alright guys. I have been itching to get this laptop overclocked. Have looked through most of this thread but just need some straight forward answers please

I have the ICS chip, opened her up and severed the #14 PIN. After that, according to SetFSB, the TME is now unlocked. Though in the program, when I move a slider the Set FSB button is still grayed out. What is the next step that I need to take?? Thanks for the help!

 

Anybody can help me please?

 

Alright guys. I have been itching to get this laptop overclocked. Have looked through most of this thread but just need some straight forward answers please

I have the ICS chip, opened her up and severed the #14 PIN. After that, according to SetFSB, the TME is now unlocked. Though in the program, when I move a slider the Set FSB button is still grayed out. What is the next step that I need to take?? Thanks for the help

 

Well hello fellow modders and Alienware m11x enthusiasts. I would like some help with my unfortunate challenge of overclocking with the SLG clock so I genuinely have a few questions about how difficult reaching that hypothetical 2.4 ghz really is. I have an Alienware M11x R1- With all the standard bells and whistles but I understand I have to use decent ram, do the VID hardmod, and connect pin #7 to either pin #6 or 12 to have any hope of achieving that 2.4 ghz and maintain some stability. Obviously I love My M11x and I've done some modding before but I'm still new to the M11x OC specifically. I had it for a long time since roughly March 2010 so I'd like to see some more performance to keep up with today's games.

fyi- I'm running the 296.1 Drivers for the Nvidia 335m in Hybrid and if anyone needs help with that I'll post anywhere they want.

fyi- I've read the previous posts but never joined the community until now.

 

vid hardmod is for the cpu voltage increase to make it stable. In my situation [I have an hardware switch] so I can test the ram to: cpu overclock disabled with 333mhz meaning 333*4 = 1333Mhz CL6... it's a no go