that review was kinda dumb.
all the issues they ran into were things someone with any sence would antisipate. yes it is a tight fit but they fit just fine and since the overall surface area raised it doesnt matter if the ramsinks touched or not. in the end there is more air that can move heat away than if there was less surface area. this is the basic building block of how ALL heatsinks work.
the ram sinks werent needed in my case but for some having stability issues related to RAM might benifit from them.
one thing i did to mod them wan remove the stock thermal tape and replace it with the one i linked. it made sure all the RAM was touching the heatsink.
sorry for the late reply...![]()
i do the method were you just put a dab in the middle of the die and then put the heatsink on. just make sure that you put it on evenly. if one side goes down faster than the other you might end up squeezing 1/2 the paste out one one side leaving the other side with just bare metal.
the method were you spread it on traps a lot of air in my exp. but to be honest... its probably not a huge difference ether way.
as far as the parts i cut out of the case you can see the difference in the before and after pics. there is some parts missing in the heatsink area that i removed. on the inside i clipped off 2 lil tabs that were in the way but i dont think you had to if you just arranged the heat sinks differently than i did.
-
Have you thought of finding a more efficient fan also?
I am picking up a bunch of those heat sinks to try to get my fan to turn on less to improve my battery life. While in there i plan to measure the fan to see if there is some sort of ball bearing fan in the same size that may be better. -
i thought about it. but once i cut the part of the fan shroud off the noise went down about 1/3. which is pretty quiet considering it never goes past the first fan speed anymore. you can see from the video i posted the Gfx card barly hit 46c when playing TF2. im sure it could run hotter on a more demanding game but you get the idea. the temps are crazy low for a laptop. let alone one thats so small, quite and powerful.
if you do deside to replace the fan plz post your results and what fan you used incase i (or anyone else) wanted to follow in your footsteps. -
Ok cool. I will let you know what I find.
-
I may have to go ahead with this mod too, if I can find the time. Might as well, after the 2GHz mod, might as well make it quiet and cool as possible.
-
how do you apply the copper heatsinks? solder or thermal paste? Was thinking of also adding some shims, are the attached the same way?
-
The heatsinks use a thermal double sided tape to stick on.
As soon as my spare m11x shows up I will be pulling the factory heat sinks off to solder on some to it. -
sweet i just ordered the tape, heatsinks, shims and mx4 and will post my results in the next week
-
Just ordered the same as gumba, going to post my results as soon as it gets here. I am getting high temps on my r2 (80+)...
-
One thing you guys might want to do also is the fan mod. With out it the heat that the new copper pulls away from the stock heat sinks has no where to go but back into the computer.
Before
After
Attached Files:
-
-
-
Dremel with a cutoff wheel does the trick.
-
Meh, I don't have a dremel... Any alternatives?
I'll try get one borrowed meanwhile... -
Not really any other options, its a metal part you need to cut out. You might be able to do it by just drilling a bunch of holes into that side of the fan housing.
-
-
ppl, plz post results of an R2 or R3 modded temps...
i am very interested. -
-
sweeeeeeet!
i know this is way over kill on the R1 for time spent vs realistic gains of any form... but im thinking this could be a huge deal on the R2/R3 and i just wanted to see how huge. -
thanks again some guy for the inspiration to do this
Here are my initial results, been getting a consistent 10-15C drop across the board
Asus K53TA Cooling Mods -
Thx for posting results!
-
Anyone else have any mod results to post? I would really like to see this done on a R3
-
Thinking about doing this with my R3. Anyone have any results for the R3?
-
The Notebook Memory Heat Spreader is out of stock, any idea where I can get them? :/
-
I just saw a bunch of them on amazon, might try this later it seems just too cool a mod
-
Does anyone know if the Heatpipe/Cooler is the same for R1/R2/R3? I´m about to switch to an R3 (if possible) and would like to use a used Cooler.
-
r2 and r3 are almost identicle and will fit either. r1 is different
-
Thanks for that info, ninja!
-
Made a mod on my M11x R3.
See attachmentAttached Files:
-
-
Woh , that topic is amazing.
So , basically , you just buy thoses two types of heatsink , cut some of them to fit in the motherboard and stick them with that japanese thermal tape ?
Is it that simple ? God , i should give it a try.
How's the M11X hard to unmount ? Cause i use to unmount desktop , i wasn't afraid about laptop since i unmounted a 13" Dell XPS easyli , but last week i unscrew a Panasonic 12" laptop , God ... i spent more than 3 hours trying to open it ( somethink like 40 srews ! ) , and i only manage to open it a bit , losting all power / wifi buttons inside ...
I manage to put everything back after HOURS , Power and wifi buttons are now working again but i think i forget somethink , DVD driver won't open untill i force it ...
I feel so noobish , but damn that was terrible. -
-
katalin_2003 NBR Spectre Super Moderator
@Catzoo don't worry, none of us was born opening laptops, this is how you learn
Just go slowly and remember that patience is key. Yesterday it took 3 hours, tomorrow it will take one and one day you'll realize that you don't even need the lights on
Don't be afraid to ask any questions you mat have, after searching if the issue wasn't already debated yet.
Cheers -
IMO the most important thing with the m11x is...
Short screws go in the keyboard! -
-
I leave out those 2 screws that hold in the keyboard from under the battery. It keeps the keyboard from dipping down in the middle. So mine is nice and flat.
-
I still dont like the idea of transfering heat into the chassis. The tubes are intended to bring the heat near the fan to be exhausted out. That said, if you are getting results then hard to debate them.
-
totally agree with you. but the chassis is not air tight in my senero. i have taken off the black fabric that covers the speaker grilles (possibly having the area of a 1" square hole). also i have cut the fan shroud so about 30% of the fan's air moment is directed toward the opposite side of where the hot air normally exhaust.
if you watch the video i posted you can see it really works. i even took a real video and not a FRAPS recording so you could see my ambient temp and that i wasn't using any cooling pads or anything cuz the results would cause some disbelief, for good reason.
long term results would almost totally depend on extra ventilation as you suggest tho. with out it, the extra surface area would eventually experience heat soak and the temps would raise back to the same as before the mod. so once again your totally right in what your saying. -
-
yea. when i do a few hrs of couch surfing on intel gfx the fan might only kick on once or twice for about 30 sec. and thats with it sitting directly on the cushion. the bottom gets warm but the CPU temp stays in the high 30s to low 40s 90% of the time. for sanity sake i check my HDD temp every once in a while and its normally in the mid to high 20s, in the summer it might hit the low 30s but for a WD Black @ 7200rpm thats really not hot at all. im positive removing the fabric from the speaker grille helped in the dept too since the HDD is directly above the ventilation holes.
its really crazy how cool the CPU and NB run in this PC. the 335gt is actually quite cool also considering its performance level. even with my OC & DavyGT's modded Bios i rarely see temps above the low 60s, its normally in mid 50s with most demanding games. -
The r1 is truely a magical machine
-
The R1 with C2D CPU must be the optimal travel-gamer.
Twice batterylife and half the heat as the R3.
I now got R3, and the performance is much better, but the temperature on CPU is also 10degree higher when surfing internett (50degrees), the batterylife is 3,5-4hours when surfing internett.
On my R1 i got nearly 7hours. -
you could try using something like flash block to disable flash until you want to use it.
from what i gather the R3 can be good "ok" battery life when the CPU/GPU aren't being taxed that much (idle).
but yea. the R1 @ 2.0ghz plays almost anything out @ playable FPS and still gets 5+ hrs surfing the web (i still get 6+ on mine).
if it wasnt for the mediocre battery life on the R3 i would have upgraded a while ago, im a performance nut. but i need more hrs battery life on my laptop more than i need a few more FPS in games. -
So, how about dem heatsink mods on the M14x?
Think it could be done? -
i just got the Enzotech MOS-C1 C1100 Forged Copper Heatsinks only today . WOW they r so small @.@ u sure they help ? looks smaller then the ones in ur pic . Doing the mod on my r3 my temps now overclocked to core 810 is about 91 c on a hot day and playing crysist 2 or skyrim .
-
Yep those are the right heat sinks. I just checked my left overs and it the same.
On some places you go 2 heat sinks wide. -
Hey everyone, new to this forum but having been soaking up info on this as Im actually going to use this for my project at ITT for electronic engineering.
So first off, thanks for the mod it looks great but im wondering for one thins, what type of power connection does the fan use? I want to see what kind of aftermarket solution is possible.
While I have it open Im going to see if I can expand a little on your idea's here but all this is excellent information, thanks everyone for keeping this thread alive.
By the way I have just received my R2 i7 model, used. It currently overheats on Assassins Creed Revelations but im thinking a good clean up and new thermal grease should help it out quite a bit, ill let you know when I have some results. -
The fan should be a 3 pin.
-
I have a lots of questions , i hope someone can awnser few of those !
1 How do you stick the copper shim on the heatsink?
2 Should i put the shim directly on the GPU or on the heatsink?(I think pic 7 show the shim right on the heatsink
3 Did you used 2shim of 055cm on the GPU or 1shim 1mm?
4 Did you used shim on the cpu or only on the gpu?
5 I see 2 big copper square on the opposite of the fan, is this shim? they seems thick! Used many shims?(pic5-6 page1)
6 This mod require no thermal paste at all? Only thermal tape?
7 Did you use tape everywhere of the heatsink or only near gpu/cpu? -
So i ordered the material. I did lots of search how to apply the shims.
What i really want to know is did you used shims on GPU , CPU and Northbridge?
Which Thinkness you used? ( i ordered 2cmX2cmX.55mm , i hope it fit)
Did you use thermal tape on both side of the shims?
Did you used shims anywhere else then GPU CPU northbridge? cuz i see some square cooper on the pics : : -
i only know where in norway Enzo Technology MOS-C1 Kjøleribber til Mosfet - Netshop
10$ -
Bumb , i still looking for awnsers XD
M11x R1 Heatsink Mod
Discussion in 'Alienware M11x' started by some guy, Jun 12, 2011.