M11x: Reapplying stock TIM, Temperatures, Benchmarks, and Overclocks

Yeah you know I had to redo my CPU too. I was concerned about the way I applied it (again too much paste) but I thought about it and reapplied instead so I didn't have to open up again lol. I agree, I didn't have to reapply the TIM, but fun was to be had!

 

yeah I really should have cleaned it off and redid it. Your temps though are extremely low - looks great.

Back =) about to run OCCT. will post results soon.

These are the CPU and GPU temps from just running OCCT's GPU test only for 15 min, not the CPU test. BEFORE MX3



Now post MX3 temperatures, running the same OCCT GPU test for 15 min (10min of actual stress)



So my CPU temps are still like 1C higher than previous run, although I only did each run once so there could be variations. I also noticed the 4 min idle after the stress on the CPU both cores had some odd spike pre-TIM.

Next, my GPU temps dropped a lot. Hitting 61C twice in the ten minutes and slowly climbing to that temperature while the pre-TIM was at 64C early and steady. Overall very happy. I will have to see how it idles with IGP and see if the fans like to stay off now.

 

Got an update on post 3 and 4. Not a comprehensive 2 posts but it's a start. I've been busy lol.

 

Are you going to post step by step pics?

 

sorry didn't bother taking pics even though I did the process twice in the same day haha, I just wanted to get it done and over with and not mess with pictures..

 

Heres my temp stat from my current laptop ...
Vostro 1400
no overclocking or anything..
just running dreamweaver and few firefox windows..

check the temps:

 

That is a nice winter laptop...

 

Lol... even beats mine hands down. Though I've recently put new copper mod + I'm downclocking heavily...

Yours is truly a nice heater, with the extra feature that it can also serve as a laptop.

 

He He..
yeah
It comes handy here in utah.. its damn cold
I dont want to rip it open.. as I have lot of important college data ..atleast until i have my m11x

 

I want that wallpaper on #4 post! btw very valuable info about this lappy

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v324/SSPuffer/7.jpg

Here you go my man.

Does anyone think it's a good idea to experiment with electroless plating nickel over copper? That would make a sturdier shell...lol.

 

What are you guys getting battery life wise? Overclocked vs Not Overclocked?
I hear that it actually increases after being OC'ed?

 

hey klas, found this link that may come in handy if u really wanna take yr m11x apart (( full dismantling of the M11x, with pics )) = it's in chinese @ http://tech.163.com/digi/10/0309/06/61AIAUF00016192R.html

using google to translate helps alot for those of us that don't speak/read that language

best of luck

 

Quite the opposite. Overclocking requires extra power to run the processor at a higher freq. OCing drains the battery quicker. If you want max battery life, disable OC in the BIOS.

 

^Agreed. Cool this thread is still getting some attention lol.

 

Actually, particularly in this case I would object.
Yesterday I spent almost the whole day testing my M11x, and one of the most important things I considered was power consumption. Although I don't have a lot of fancy tools for that, I used the cheap energy consumption monitoring device.
I tested three modes of M11x - IGP mode, 335M mode stock and 335M mode OC'ed. The results I got were following (I doublechecked):
Idleing:___12W|15W|15W
CPU 100%:25W|29W|29W
GPU 100%:18W|42W|42W
3dM 06:___25W|42W|42W

The CPU and GPU 100%s were measured in OCCT, and 3dMark was tested with highest settings (0/8AA+16AF) on firefly forest.

It seems, that the OCing was counteracted with reduced voltage to keep the TPD within its bounds. So, after all, I decided to keep OC on all the time.

 

To the people that replaced their stock TIM: Did you notice that the underside of the left palmrest got uncomfortably warm before the change after say an hour of gaming? If so did it improve?

 

teflon - I don't remember testing the heat under the left palmrest (bottomside) before TIM but it's only warm now. Not uncomfortably warm meaning I could prob sit it on my bare thigh even on GPU.

 

The left palmrest houses the RAM, any TIM change wouldn't cause that part to be any cooler really.

 

How the heck do you get the mother board out? i have most of the screws removed and can't seem to pull it out.

 

The mobo comes out at an angle. Make sure all your little cables/attachments are removed and lift gently from the side closest to the center of the laptop. So the VGA, card reader, USB port etc will be the last ones out. If it really won't budge it probably means there's still a screw somewhere.

 

I just gave up. I spent the last 2 hours though trying to figure out which screws go where. Not to mention I sneezed and all my screws went flying around lol. So I have to say I feel like I know the m11x almost like the back of my hand. Just gave up on the TIM swap cause that mobo and daughter board thing wouldn't even budge. Had almost all the screws out. Ugh. Might just get a laptop cooler lmao.

 

Daughter board? Do you mean the board that's on the far right directly under your right palm rest?

 

yea, does it all come out together? I dunno, i have to see how it's pulled out to do it myself or have some set of instructions.

 

That daughter board has a couple of screws and you have to gently pull on it to disconnect it from the motherboard. It fits into a socket that the motherboard has. Then I think there might be some screws under the daughter board that needs to be removed for the motherboard to lift out.



So basically Red needs to come out first. It detaches via the Yellow area. Be sure to disconnect Orange (it's a pain).

 

I was fiddling with orange, but I was afraid I might break it so I left it alone. i removed screws 1,2,3, on the daughter board and i checked underneath it to see what else could come out. Had no luck. how do it disconnect, slides out to the right? Half this stuff I'm not sure how it disconnects so I don't want to break stuff lol.

 

After making sure all screws are off the daughter board, lift the yellow area up and it will disconnect from the motherboard socket.

 

Alrite, I'm pulling it apart again lol.

 

I'll be heading out to dinner and a movie soon. If you get stuck somewhere, set it aside and just send me a PM and I'll respond asap.

 

Just behind the LCD Connector (circled in orange in previous pic) is a small white cable which connects to the board. Be very careful removing this cable as it is very short and is a locking connection. It must be disconnected to remove the board. The audio board has a pull tab on it which, after removal of the three screws you can use to pull up on it. If having issue, use a plastic scribe tool to gently pop it loose.

If you feel any of this is too much, I seriously advise you do not proceed. Any damage will void your warranty and you will be stuck with it.

Be aware, applying aftermarket thermal compound to the CPU and GPU is trial and error (if you have not done this before). You may end up with a good application, you may not. If you don't and temps are higher, you will have to go back in and re-apply. Do not remove the thermal pad from the Intel Chipset (iGPU) heatsink. Only apply to the CPU and NV GPU. Leave the thermal pads for the NV GPU memory alone. Be very careful not to get any rubbing alcohol or thermal compound cleaning solution on these pads as it will damage them.

Above all else, be careful and take your time. With the 11x, its better to stick with the factory application of thermal compound than attempting to replace it if you are not confident in the process.

Best of luck.

 

Yea...I'm putting it back together. A notebook cooler will work the same for me lol.

 

hello, isit possible to upgrade the cpu to core i series, or other higher clock cpu like c2d p8600

 

Just did this again on my replacement M11x haha. One thing though is one core runs 2C cooler than the other. It was like this before the TIM and still like this after the TIM. A bit annoying since my previous M11x each core was always nearly the same temp. This is okay right?

as a side note: although MX-3 says no cure time, I've noticed temps drop more after having it in for 2-3 weeks. Hoping my new system does the same and drops off some.

 

I've been lazy in this aspect. Maybe in the next few days I'll ba able to make time to tear it apart. Just got the AS5 in yesterday and swapped my T9300 in the 1720 for a T9500. Got the trade from a friend who was gettin rid of his laptop. Didn't care if he had the 2.5GHz or 2.6GHz. Told me if it was worth the trouble it was mine. 1 hour later 2.6GHz.

michaelbyz23 No you can't swap it. The SU7300/SU4100 are soldered into the motherboard. Not to mention you wouldn't have BIOS support for another CPU.

 

i just replace my TIM








post my temps later

 

Nicely done Cpt.!

 

hey villosa, thanks.

but i can imagine how hard it was for you that time to change your TIM inspite having no service manual available to download. that was impressive man.

my temps

 

You guys are far braver than I. I think I will happily keep mine the way it is in the 50s for max load cpu.

 

Those are pretty nice temps. Any improvement over your stock temps? Give it a few days to settle, should have even better temps. I know OCZ Freeze and MX-3 work right from the start with no cure time but I've noticed vast improvement as time goes on.

Also for anyone still tuning in to this thread, I'll be custom making zinc service panels that will allow the system to breathe a little more especially around the ram and HDD areas. The new service panel will also allow air from the cooler to blow directly onto the GPU and CPU heatsinks giving superior cooling when the fan is not on. New, higher, feet will allow for better air flow as well. I will most likely be prototyping quick access areas such as the ram or HDD areas for easy swapping, but I really want to concentrate on a quick access point for swapping out the battery (meaning no screws!) in case a spare ever goes to market. So stay tuned to that.

 

^ looking forward to that villosa. Done the TIM job 3x now and that's as intrusive as it gets as far as opening up the M11x, so I'm brave enough for anything new.

 

Cool, yeah I should release something about it soon. Been busy modding a Xbox 360 for my niece lol. I'm trying to work the nameplate into the mix but because of the number of vents I'm adding, I might have to custom engrave dog tags from the pet store so they fit lol...

 

villosa thats nice idea

also my plan customization

1. external batt can be an option.

but i have talked to my friend who owns a battery store he can do me a battery with same connections but small and lower capacity that can fit at the hard drive space. So you still have an option not to carry around external batt and this maybe good to those who always play with m11x plug on an outlet.

2. a Raid would fit inside the battery space. 2 intelx25-m can fit and ill be customizing a Raid on the go type adapter.







i will customize the adapter Link of the Item Here (Pic Above) to fit the battery space with 2 intel x25-m 160gb

now this pic below will let me have a partial idea how big the battery space

 

That's sweet man. Any idea on the battery life of this "1/2 batt"? lol I'm on the fence on sacrificing awesome battery life for space although I'll admit I do get tired of carrying my external hdd around all the time. Hey, my quick access panel will make large batteries obsolete due to easy swapping with your new 1/2 battery!

 

hehe a 2 intel x25-m 160gb or 80gb in 1.8 form will free a lot of space even having a whole new packing of battery that will add if you want longer battery lifespan.

 

Just wondering if your fans are still kicking in randomly at those temperatures?

 

Apparently the fans being odd are not due to temps but a bios problem. But to answer your question, my laptop has not had that happen once.

 

Question. beside the screws, what else is grabbing on to the motherboard? I've recently repositioned my mobo as left charging USB port was misaligned from the factory and it made a "tick" noise as soon as it repositioned itself. This has fixed the position issue but I am just scared that I might have broken something.

 

It be great if anyone can answer my q.

 

Should only be screws as far as I can remember. The sound may have been due to the shift since certain areas are "locked" in the chassis. Hope that makes sense. If you powered it up and it still works, then you got nothing to worry about.

 

@villosa

Thanks for the great reply! Yeah, I have tested the USB port and it seems to be working. When you pried it open, do you know what was holding on to these little USB ports? solder maybe? I'm curious how durable they are as they do look fragile from the pic you've provided.

Don