Asus G50 Notebook Disassembly Guide

I replaced the Intel 5100 unit on my G51 with a Ralink based Sparklan WPER-101BN(BT).

RainMotorsports and I discussing it from here...

 

The bluetooth unit is separate from the stock wireless card, so the card that GDavidF posted would probably be your best bet for an all-in-one solution. Be aware though that that's a half size card and you'll need a half size to full size mPCIe bracket (usually like $5 on eBay).

The chassis is Asus proprietary, you won't find it elsewhere. The G51 and G60 use a slightly modified version of this same chassis though.

 

Awesome... didn't even think of a WLAN/BT combo mini-PCI card. If this BT-183 works, which of course I already ordered, I'll be saving myself a whopping $10...

Love the chassis... thanks for the input. I think my next upgrade when I can afford it in a few years will be a Clevo build, but I was just curious if it was a cookie-cutter chassis because I love how this thing is designed... it's by far the easiest and most convenient laptop case I've had compared to the HPs, Gateways, Acers, and Dells I've worked with.

What other cooling upgrades can you do to this thing besides new paste? I didn't think there was a heck of a lot of room to work with, plus I figured all this lovely copper will work as well as it ever will. Any way to overdrive the existing stock fan with more V to have it run faster?

 

I use a sahlman dual fan cooling plate with custom seals creating overpressure on the underside. Lowers at least 10-15 degrees.

I have seen extra copper plates, extra fan in the blocked fan duct and even water cooling.

 

Link please?

It wasn't about dollars being saved for me, it was more about time, ease of install and knowing it would work( =dollars I guess) which saved a USB port too...

 

Its similar to mine, I have sealed all sides with foam stickers.
http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/Product_Read.asp?idx=130

 

I was thinking moreso internal cooling mods... figured that it would benefit more if you could carry heat outwards from the internals as opposed to trying to do more ambient stuff.

Never gave much real thought to cooling pads and elevation since newer laptops nowadays have their vents on the sides or back.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/asus-gaming-notebook-forum/545106-g60jx-cooling-mod-w-pics.html

http://forum.notebookreview.com/asus/608772-k53ta-bbr6-cooling-mods.html

http://therandomlab.blogspot.com/2012/01/laptop-cooling-mod.html

 

Hello, I know this thread is old but it seems to have stayed relevant to those of us with g50/g51's and seems to receive a few new replies a year so I figured I'll give it a shot.

I hadn't been happy with my G51's performance for almost half a year, the fan was always full blast and the heat output was unbearable at times. Yesterday I decided it was time to open her up and clean out some of the dust I've collected over the last 3 years. I felt confident since I used to open my desktop up almost daily back in highschool. I followed the procedure from the guide and it was simple enough. I removed the heatsinks and fan and just removed the dust with my fingers and blow into them a few times. Then I put everything back, re-connected the fan power and screwed the bottom back in, only that now, my laptop lights up but does not boot!
The optical drive clicks and initializes, but the fan does not come on and the screen remains blank.

I've tried to open it up back up and check if everything is in place and it is, I've also tried powering it back up through a static discharge boot...no luck. Any ideas here guys or did I just somehow magically fry it?(keep in mind I did ground myself and I received no shocks during the disassembly)

Here's some more extra info: the thermal paste was completely dried up on the gpu, and I didnt have any to replace it with. Thought that might be worth mentioning.

 

If you took off the heatsinks (which was not necessary to blow out the dust ), and didn't replace the thermal pads with new thermal paste (or new pads), due to the age of the system it is likely that it is overheating and won't power itself on because of that. A CPU without thermal transfer will overheat in a matter of seconds. Another possibility is that you have dislodged the CPU from the socket while taking off the heatsink assembly. Try reseating the CPU, get some thermal paste on the CPU and GPU (you can clean off the existing residue with alcohol and coffee filters), and make sure everything is aligned properly. Also make sure you have the fan cable plugged into the motherboard.

 

Like ALLurGroceries said.
Also, some of the thermal pads are like a thick sealing tape. You will need to replace them with new stuff from radioshack or somewhere similar (we have Jaycar in Australia).
Hope you used (a) canned air duster to "blow it out", a soft paintbrush or lens duster would have been better than fingers...

 

Quick note, my RX05 runs beautifully, but I have noticed that the machine just isn't of the best build quality. Especially in that I've had a keyboard die, and the top right display screw has broken, so that the display casing is coming off at that corner.

 

I have an aging G50V, and its power jack has died on me (killing a battery in the process ). I'm trying to dismantle the SOB so I can replace the jack, but I can't get the keyboard to come loose. The guide just describes releasing four latches with tweezers but doesn't actually show the latches themselves so I have no clue what I'm supposed to be looking for -- I see nothing resembling a latch. How do I get the keyboard out?

 

Welcome to NBR Doktor Jones! There are 4 tabs that you have to kind of push in (up towards the speakers). They're at F1/Esc, F7, Ins, and *. I use a small flathead screwdriver to push the tab things up, and keep undoing them until they decide to stay undone (sometimes they snap back into place). It's best if you unscrew the keyboard from the bottom first so there's less resistance pulling it down (there are two keyboard screws denoted by a K at the backplate/bottom chassis part).

Hope this helps!

 

Laptop battery disassembly did someone try it? interested in a brand of the cells, V, mAh for asus g50vt 9cell 7200
If someone did it please share some info
Thanks

 

Typically no as the risks are large and the benefits small to doing so.

 

I think they're Samsung 18650 cells, I forgot how many mAH each. It's especially hard to take apart the battery because of the sonically-welded case.

As Meaker said, I don't recommend it. No offense, but if you don't know how to deduce the voltage and capacity of each cell in a battery you should not be disassembling it. A short circuit can be extremely dangerous with Li-ion cells, especially if you don't have the tools or safety equipment to deal with a hazardous situation like thermal runaway. It's easier and cheaper to find an aftermarket battery, though only 3rd party batteries exist for the G50/G51/M50 series now. Sorry.

 

Not to mention batteries kilk themselves on purpose if they detect a break in their internal circuitry often.