Asus Scar II - GL704GW, i7 8750H, RTX2070, 144hz

If you go into device manager > firmware > system firmware, right-click and update. It will download v303 and upon reboot will flash it. I don't know what the changes are but it flashed fine on mine.

BTW, I cannot even undervolt -100mv without crashing. On my MSI GS65, I can undervolt the same chip -185mv. Luck of the draw I guess.

 

I just picked this up at Fry's Electronics this morning. They where doing their 20% off everything to the first 40 people in the door. So before tax it cost $1680. Super deal.

I also picked up another 16GB stick for dual channel. It definitely does make a difference. 3DMark scores went up after installing the RAM.

First impressions are good. The fans are much quieter than my GS65. Out of the box CPU temps were hitting 90-95C. I just finished applying liquid metal and CPU temps are maxing out at 75C. GPU temps between 65-70C. The screen is nice and bright. I also have a bit of light bleed at the bottom on the black boot up screen. It doesn't bother me though.

In Firestrike I'm getting 17200.

 

So question for you and anyone else who is repasting. Are you just doing a repaste on the cpu/gpu? What about those VRM chips covered in factory paste? Are you just ignoring it and slapping it together, or using thermal pads or?? I own one and just put in 2x8gb sticks and a 970 pro. It's stupid fast and I love it. It's not bothering me, but the temps do hit 95 CPU and 85 GPU while gaming. So obviously if I can get them down, I'll happily do a repaste and I'm going to undervolt it when I get home.

 

Well, I just re-spread the factory paste on the VRMs and put it back together.

 

That's what I always wondered, why bothering with thermal pads when you can repaste the whole thing with some MX-4 directly.

Nevertheless, I've spent two months researching laptops and decided to buy a desktop in the end)). Cause I want that 4k144Hz monitor real bad, which can't be had with laptops. And it turned out that I don't really need to be that mobile and my machine will stay at my house 99% of time.

But regarding the laptop choice these temps drop from 95 to 75 would have made my mind finally and I'd choose gl704gw. But what regarding the noise levels? Are you still hitting 55dB with all of that LM repaste done? For me it has really been Helios 500 vs GL704GW, with helios having gtx1070 and still hitting better scores due to way superior cooling solution.

 

I always turn the fans up on max when I game and the fans aren't actually that loud to me. They're not high pitched like the ones on my GS65. The cooling on the GL704 isn't the best. IMO it needs more heat pipes and better fans.

 

My 2 cent.

Got asus rog gl704gw
For playing Gta 5 for about 20 min, i got my Cpu temp up to 99°c. Probably bad pasting from factory or...?
And also when cpu was at those temp. it trottled to around 2.8GHz.

Any advice?

 

Get rid of it. I gave up and returned mine. EVERYONE is having thermal issues. You should NOT have to repaste and undervolt just for the PC to operate normally. After my repaste and undervolt it was fine, It did not throttle. However temps would hit a spike on a couple cores about 91c, normally would hang in the upper 80s on the CPU. The GPU stayed in the upper 70s lower 80s. Prior to the repaste it thermal throttled constantly. CPU would stay at 95c and GPU would be upper around 89c.

 

Well the problem with return is, that i missed first 14 days for return in Mediamarkt... First 14 days that i bought it, i didnt actualy use it to much, so couldnt see that thermal pooping. But now yikes! So is there a way i can return it even after quite 1 month? BTW my is already on warranty/service, mainly because of the thermal issues and other things. Im sure it will take atleast 2-3 weeks to get it back (stupid as it sounds).
No idea how to do it now...

And this:

couldnt agree more with you, i mean its like to buy a 300 HP car, but the first few corners you make, those HP go back to 200, ohh yeah thats all normal! (comparing to thermal trotteling)

God damn it im a bit pissed now...and idea how to get rid of the laptop and get money back? :/

 

I purchased mine through Amazon. So I was covered on the return. If returning isn't an option. Then you only have two.
1. Do an RMA with Asus. This can take awhile.
2. Do a repaste and a undervolt. I found Throttlestop to work perfectly. You can find some good videos on using it. This will correct the issue until they hopefully push out new bios/software updates to hopefully address the issue one day. Dont hold your breath though.

Just know, and you CAN verify this with Asus. I was told via chat with a rep regarding my thermal issues for options to correct it. They told me doing a repaste will NOT void your warranty. UNLESS you damage the PC. As long as it boots like normal etc they will honor the warranty still. I would recommend talking to one via online chat, so you can save a copy of the chat logs. Good luck with it.

 

Thanks Chocolate_Ch3rry!
1. OK so RMA means what, sori im a bit bad with there sorts xD?
2.To do a repaste, even with all the blessing from the Asus is absurd, just like you wrote it before. It shouldn't be like this ffs, 2k+ for a laptop, so i can jerk it on trottlestop...instead of playing games.

Well i really hope they fix something, or i do RMA, witch i hope you will explain me now what it is

.
.
.
Yeah ok RMA! Thanks google explained!
And this can be achieved directly with asus or the store that sold the laptop to me?

 

RMA= Return Merchandise Authorization. It's just a term everyone uses in reference to warranty returns/repairs basically. Just contact Asus, explain to them to Laptop is thermal throttled during gaming and running abnormally hot. They'll have you return it to them via a prepaid shipping label they will send you. Then they will make an attempt to repair or replace the laptop. Some people claim to have better results with repasting, but maybe you and me could have just had lost the chip lottery and had some bad chips that run to hot.

Edit- I would reach out to the store you bought it from first. See what options they have if any. If its past the return time, they'll probably just refer you to Asus.

 

Well, the laptop went back to the store, and back to asus. And yeah stores return policy is 14 days no question asked, now its 28 days.
Will manage something, ty

 

Anyone able to tell me the RAM used in these? Or could this vary?

I'd ordered the 16GB crucial CT16G4SFD8266 as I had seen this mentioned in other GL704 posts.

I wouldn't want to run in single channel.

Laptop and ram turns up Friday, obviously I'll be able to confirm when I open the model up - but I had to bundle the RAM in with the Laptop order for tax reasons.

Really wouldn't want to mismatch.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

 

Hi all...new owner for 704gw here!

 

My Amazon UK model came with 2 X Samsung 8GB 2600Hz sticks.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

 

i have only 1 stick x16 from samsung

 

Hey!

I got a question about laptop cooling pad for Asus GL704GW. Does it actually need one?
I read somewhere, cant remember where, that cooling pad is making it worse for the laptop to cool... Is that true or just alot of bs?

 

Seems it's hit and miss with getting dual channel.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

 

The 8750H runs hot in every laptop I've seen.

I came from a GS65 (very thin and light), which had an MSI implemented 90c throttle. With -150mV on CPU, it barely throttled in cinebench (occasionally a tiny bit), and in games it ran around 80c. Which was fine... (Also worth noting this was single channel, and maybe bottlenecked the CPU a little) AND only ran a 1070MQ.

Now, I expected the GL704 to manage thermals much better due to larger size&thickness. Asus allow the 8750H to hit 95c before throttling, and as stock it hit this without much trouble. Repaste with Kryonaut, dropped temps maybe 5c, but still have throttling issues. This CPU will only manage -70mV (luck of draw). With undervolt and repaste, I barely get any throttling, CPU pushes low 90c in Apex/BF5, and occasionally spikes to 95c with small undervolt. (This is a combined load with a 2070 non-mq GPU, which has shared heatpipes, and I am seeing higher CPU temps in game than with cinebench alone) This is with dual-channel RAM, which may push CPU a little harder, and gain a few centigrade. Interestingly though, I THINK Asus allow for a larger power draw from the CPU. In game, I regularly see 40W+ continuously, and when it does throttle cinebench scores only drop slightly. (GS65 would drop to 900, whereas GL704 never goes under 1150 or so). I think Asus push more out of the 8750H here, and is in part why the thermal performance appears worse, when actual performance is typically better. Also the shared heatpipes with 2070 pulling 115W will likely be a BIG contributor to high thermals on CPU in game.

Despite not really seeing throttling in game after repaste and undervolt, I am still planning to LM the GL704 as I know this could bring -20c on CPU and GPU. Main benefit here will be fan noise reduction, along with knowing it will never thermal throttle.

Now, to get to your question.
1. As stock, you absolutely will get thermal throttling.
2. With undervolt/repaste or a combination of both, you will likely eliminate all but some very occasional throttling.
3. LM and you're laughing.
4. Cooling pad will likely only help out a few degrees compared with sitting the laptop on a hard desk. Relative to points 2 and 3, a cooling pad will provide very little benefit.
5. Cooling pad effectiveness depends on the cooling design and airflow of the laptop chassis. If a significant amount of air intake is taken from beneath the chassis, it should help with this.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

 

So my GL704GW CPU hits 99°c while playing GTA5 for no more than 15min, with trotteling to below 3GHz on all cores.
Now the laptop is at warranty to repair this, because Asus said if i do repaste my self or anyone else except them, it will void the warranty.
But more i look at forums, more i think that this CPU really runs hot AF!
Plus on my laptop i can also uV to around -70mV, lets say more -65mV.
About cinebench i got scores from 1279 (highest) and all the way down to 1170ish.
No idea what to think about this, could be unoptimized software or even designing flaw...?


(pic is from playing GTA 5 for 15 min)

 

CPU will throttle at 99c based on Intels specs. I was under the impression that Asus limit this to 95c in the GL704. Maybe you have different BIOS or version of Asus control software? I'm unfamiliar with GTAV, if it uses heavy AVX instruction sets, this could be a reason for stupid temps. Is it similar in other games?

Throttling down to 3GHz with a -65mV, and hitting 99c definitely stinks of a very poor paste job to me.

Honestly, I am not sure how Asus would determine you had repasted.My GL704 had no warranty stickers etc on the back panel, and the CPU cooler had a small warning sticker over one screw (which was easily reapplied after repaste). Also worth noting, Kryonaut is a very similar colour and consistency to the stock paste used by Asus, and really wouldn't be noticeable if you changed this.

I'm pretty sure if I sent my laptop back as is, after a repaste, no Asus engineer is going to be able to notice. Don't quote me on this, I'd be interested in hearing others advice.

Give them the option of RMA, or giving you permission to repaste without voiding warranty (get proof of this in writing/email).

I purchased mine from Amazon, and have a month return period, and I sure as hell know Amazon wouldn't be able to determine a repaste or not.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

 

Well my bios was automaticaly updated from 302 to 303(windows update), so maybe this is a factor, but cant be sure, because i didnt test the laptop before the update. In other games lets say Metro Exodus and assassin's creed odyssey, the temps go up to 97°c+ but there is not so much trotteling.
However in Aida64 stress test, with gpu+cpu stress testing, the temps also go up so high but ofc. there is alot ALOT more trotteling, even to 2.8GHz,
GPU temp dosent go above 85/86°c.
Kryonaut you say...hmm, is it hard to repaste by my self? Few times i did open laptops and clean them plus change the fans, but never did a repaste. The only thing that could be tricky is cleaning the old paste of the chips i gues. Any thoughts?

 

That amount of throttling just shouldn't be happening, along with 97+ temps.

It was my first repaste of a laptop too! If you've had laptops open before then it shouldn't be anything too difficult. There's some videos on YouTube for Scar II 15" repaste, and maybe 17" too.

Basically it's 11 screws and backplate comes off easily. Disconnect battery, disconnect two fan header cables, then unscrew 12 screws to get the heatsink up. I cleaned off the old paste with a dry lint free cloth, and some cotton buds (q-tips), and to finish up, used a little isopropyl alcohol to get surfaces clean.

The VRM's and other chips have a thermal paste applied, I didn't touch this as most of it was left in place after I separated the heatsink. But I did apply a little extra thermal paste to chips that Asus had done a poor application with.

Then it was fairly straightforward application of thermal paste on CPU and GPU. Goes back together really easily.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

 

Thought I'd put together some guidance on anyone wanting to Liquid Metal their GL704GW. Did this last night, and was my first experience with liquid metal.

I used Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut.

Steps/Hurdles I faced:

1. Both the CPU and GPU come with an orange plastic protector. The GPU protector on mine had poor adhesion around the die, and had let factory thermal paste under the edges. I tried to clean this up, but it was under the protector. Trying to seal this with Scotch Super 33 would not have worked. So I took this off to expose the tiny components around the GPU die.

2. The stock thermal paste was all bound into the GPU components around the perimeter of the die. This wasn't possible to clean with IPA and cotton buds, partially because it had dried on. Maybe easier if a laptop hasn't had any thermal cycling, but I'd used mine for around 20 hours prior to doing this, and the paste had hardened. I actually used the conductonout packaging to get between the resistors etc (the top piece that rips off to open the package). This was flexible and prevented exerting any large force on any components as I scraped away at the paste.

3. After cleaning this up, I masked the GPU with Scotch Super 33. This was very fiddly, as the components you're having to protect are no more than a couple of mm from the die perimeter. Take time with this, get as close to the die as possible without having any tape proud of the GPU heatsink surface. Use something sharp and plastic to press around the tape and ensure good adhesion around the edge of the die.

4. The CPU orange protector was extremely well adhered to the CPU socket. I tried to remove this, but it required a huge amount of force and I decided against this (see picture where I've lifted up the corner of the protector). If you want to remove this, I'd probably suggest using a heat gun to warm the adhesive layer. At standard room temperature, you'll have a bad time. That said, there's a good gap around the CPU die and protector, and no components are particularly near to the die perimeter. I decided I could mask around this edge with scotch tape for some added protection, but I honestly think you could miss out on this step. NB - the CPU die only sits slightly proud of the tape when double thickness (where it overlaps on corners). Do not allow any more than two layers of scotch super 33 with this, otherwise you'll likely prevent good contact with heatsink and CPU die.

5. Apply the LM as recommended from multiple/common sources.

Note: I did not have thermal pads to replace the horrid stock paste on GPU memory and power regulator chips. I will be doing this asap.

Results:
From stock to Kryonaut - typically saw a 5-7c reduction in temps.
From Kryonaut to Conductonaut - typically saw a further 10c reduction in temps.
From stock to Conductonaut - 15-17c reduction in temps.

In hindsight, I wish I was more scientific with thermal data gathering for the benefit of others. At stock, 95c on the CPU was seen in games like Apex/BF5, with regular thermal throttling. With LM, I'm seeing 70-75c, with occasional spikes up to 80c.

Also worth noting the fan profile used for testing was balanced/turbo. Definitely had some fan speed reduction in balanced mode, along with the 15c or so reduction in temps over stock. The main reason for wanting to do the LM repaste was to reduce fan noise, but the lack of configurable fan curve in Armoury Crate doesn't seem to allow this? Typically see 70-75c on CPU during gaming now, I'd much prefer 80-85c with a reduction in fan speed. Balanced mode is much quieter whilst gaming now, but I'd really like to see how quiet it could go if I allowed the CPU to run a little hotter.

Hope this can help advise others who are thinking of LM'ing this laptop.

Any comments on how I've done this would be great. Admittedly an LM/laptop noob.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

 

i'm the only one with great temperatures? during metro exodus in turbo mode i'm at 80-85(undervolted of -85mv) (my pc is slightly lifted of 5 cm's on the desk with a spacer to create a space under the bottom). But the really awesome thing is that i game with cpu locked at 3ghz (instead of the full 3.9) and with this "lock" my cpu stay at about 68-74°, and gpu stable at 72-73°. At 3ghz there's basically no fps loss (actually i even tried 2.5ghz and no fps too but can be different game to game, i tested only in metro exodus and dirt 2.0). In dirt 2.0 temps are even lower with cpu at about 66-70 (metro 67-74). Of course i game at 60hz capped (144hz imho is not all that magic that some says). Don't push a useless 4ghz if this is just not required to run the game at full speed...

This is perfect for summer, because in hot days we can lock cpu even lower to 2.5ghz and obtain basically the same temps with no fps loss...

...i'm curious when i will upgrade to dual channel ram if my temps will be higher even with 60fps lock. Maybe here to depends game to game...

Compared to my old gl703vm (7700hq+1060 full) this is much cooler, 703vm with cpu locked to 2.8ghz stays at about 78-84 depends by game, and 74-76 the gpus.

 

I'm not saying mine was bad. It games just fine as stock, but that's not to say a repaste didn't benefit performance slightly. Was it worth the effort, risk, and jeopardising warranty? That depends on the person. For me, it's a necessity. It's more a compulsive disorder to have everything work optimally.

I couldn't look at my laptop the same if I had capped it to 3GHz. Even if moving to 3.9GHz results in a fractional performance improvement at the cost of much greater thermals. Personally I'd rather liquid metal and have better thermals and performance than at stock.

I also find anything below 100fps in FPS games really affects my enjoyment of it, and I definitely notice the input lag increase around that point. Each to their own, but if you're content with 60fps at 1080p, a 1060 GTX would have probably been more appropriate over the 2070 RTX.


Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

 

Spudstone can you please be a real, real hero and circle where the 12 screws are to remove when repasting? As well as the two fan connections you spoke about?

I am completely new to this and can't find a proper video on youtube to show where the screws are for this particular model.

And you said you didn't touch the pasting on the other, smaller, cores, right? Did you remove the pasting from the heatsink?

I would REALLY appreciate your help.

 

Hey guys!
Got my laptop back today...and yeah dont know what to say. From 9.3.2019 to 22.3.2019 and the result is bad!
As you can see in pics, after 8-9 min stress test the cpu is hitting 99°c and the thermal trotling is huge, tbh it was better before and also the difference betwen cores, is that normal?
If someone can please tell me if doing a repaste by my self or if someone dose it, that knows what they are going, i just dont see the point sending it back the second time for another 2 weeks with no improvment.

 

Well i agree with you for the most... but not on the cap on gaming, for me this laptop is a huge cost and will be with me for at least 3 to 5 years; i don't know how much impact will have cap the cpu on 100+ fps gaming, respect to 60', but if with a simple cap i can gain 10 to 20 degrees at 0 cost for me is the thing to do, at least in terms of long term longevity and cycle life of the product. I only plan to repaste it when the warranty end in 2 years; i think that with liquid metal you have to re-liquid again in 8-14 months (depends on the use) because LM have a loss of performance in time (and corrosion on die and heatpipes, that i don't really love, planning to use for many years). So, in games, i tend to prefer the minimum cap for obtain a good framerate and good temps; different story when i do a video export that i had to use 100% full power of the cpu's that gain me much much shorter times to export, and in this workload the extra freq is really worth using (any way gpu is not used as in games so temps are a little bit lower actually).

For gpu's thing, as i said to you on last post, i already had a 703vm with 1060 full, and no, this gpu NOW have no future (it was a beast of a gpu's in 1080p e 1440p for 3-4 years already); in fact i decide to sell the 703vm because of the 1060 on the lower side of 45-55 fps on high settings 1080p on latest games, that will be probably 35-45 on the end of the year; 2070 instead have the right amount of power to do 1080p high-ultra 60fps for at least the future 3-4 years, that is basically the time that i will use this pc. So for me this is a must thing to do having a good $$$ back from 703vm.

If you plan to use it for 1-2 year you can stress and kill it as much as you want, but if you plan to use for a couple of years longer i suggest to do those simple tricks that in reality conducts to 0 problems of performance. But ehy, as you said, there are different need for different people, i understand you hungry of performance when you buy a beast like that.

 

@MacNPeeve Picture attached. 13 screws in purple. The two most right-hand screws hold down a big connection board which needs to be lifted up and removed (I circled this in yellow).

All connections in yellow should be unplugged. Make sure to unplug battery first, this is done by sliding the metal clamp over the connector up a little, then lifting up the battery connection.

There are then two fan headers to unplug, and a further header called EXT (I think).

When I first repasted, the factory thermal paste on VRM's, power modulators etc was still liquid and I could see it would be fine without repasting the whole system. I left the paste on both the chips and heatsink, and just cleared up the CPU & GPU chips and their corresponding parts of the heatsink. This was only possible because the laptop was very new, and the paste had not thickened/hardened. After a few days, I re-opened the laptop to apply Liquid Metal - at this point, the paste was no longer re-usable, as it had gone thick/clumpy. An easy/quick way to solve this would be to clean the heatsink, clean the surface of all the contacting components and just use put a drop of NON-CONDUCTING paste on all components previously covered with the stock paste. It will look messy, but it will still likely be an improvement over the stock paste used by Asus, and will take 5-10 minutes - you will also still have the old stock paste which squeezed out of the chip-heatsink interface over everything. Not exactly an issue from a performance/technical standpoint, but certainly an issue aesthetically.

Other option is to use thermal pads as I describe below. Also, beware that cleaning up the old thermal paste from everything is 2-4 hours of painstakingly scraping and wiping with a toothpick and alcohol wipes (I used alcohol wipes, you could use something else I am sure. That's just what I had on hand which worked). After I had done this, I was reluctant to use thermal paste to re-coat the components, which is why I went the thermal pad route. I also plan on checking on the Liquid Metal application a few weeks down the line, and I would like to be able remove and reapply the heatsink with as little hassle/mess. If I used thermal paste, this would require cleaning and reapplying all over again.

I have since used some thermal pads to replace this stock paste and clean things up a little. See images attached to this post.

For the love of God, anyone thinking of replacing stock paste with pads. USE 0.5MM PADS. I tried first 1mm Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8's. These are too thick, and will lift the heatsink from the GPU causing massive thermal issues.

I used 0.5mm 14W/mK Alphacool pads. Not cheap, but the only 0.5mm pads I could get next day delivery in the UK with Amazon prime. These have worked great. GPU now sits on the heatsink well, and all the memory/vrms make good contact with the thinner pads. I used less than half of the 100x100 sheet. Also had a small amount spare from the 2 x 120x20 thermal grizzly pads. I'd say total area required was around 4000mm squared.

I'm now running at 80c on both the CPU and GPU after an hour Aida64 stress testing, with no issues. In-game that's around 70-77c. Fans barely kick in on balanced mode until 80c, so it games ridiculously quiet.

Very happy with everything now.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

 

@Oddyman, see my previous post. With Liquid Metal I'm seeing 80c on CPU and GPU after an hour Aida64 stress testing.

I'd say a 10% difference in core temps, whilst not ideal, is acceptable. When I'm hitting 80c on CPU in Aida 64, 5 cores are 77-80, then one core is around 70-72c. I doubt this is down to thermal compound application, and is just manufacturing variance in core efficiency.

My CPU hit 95c with a quick Aida64 test or cinebench R15 test as stock; resulting in thermal throttling. I think this is what you have to accept unless you are willing to upgrade the thermal compound.

Out of interest, what was your GPU reaching in the Aida64 test when combined with CPU load?

I did actually hit 91c on the CPU core with Liquid Metal after booting the laptop from cold and hitting it straight with Aida64. It took about 20 seconds for the fans to ramp up, and honestly the CPU had already pretty much stabilised at 91c BEFORE the fans even ramped up. Fans ramped up to about 4000rpm and the temp dropped back to 80c. If I could mess with the fan curves, I'd really be interested in seeing how quiet I could game on this setup.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

 

First of all, you are an absolute legend. Thank you SO much, I couldn't find this info clearly anywhere! For the fan headers, do they pull out just like the battery connection? You kind of just unclip them out of place?

Second of all, I think I may have been blessed by the luck of the draw in terms of stock paste. Currently with my -102mV undervolt, plus dual channel ram (I added another 16gb crucial stick), the hottest temps I hit are in BF5 running 100FPS on ultra settings...which hover around high 70s-mid 80s (very occasional spikes into low 90s, but that's once in a blue moon). Not great by any stretch, but not horrendous either as this the most taxing game I've thrown at it.

Overwatch runs 150 FPS (capped) on High settings with temps in low-mid 70s.

Most other games (Alien Isolation, Tales from Borderlands, other Indie games, etc) run in the mid 50s-low 60s.

Browsing I run mid 40s, and idling high 30s.

I've noticed though, the computer does run a few degrees hotter than when I had the stock single channel ram, so if anyone is considering adding another stick- beware.

Are these temps considered OK (mostly worried about the mid 80s)? Obviously I'm not gaming at that temperature load 24/7...maybe 3-4 hours every couple of days. If they are, I'm just going to keep chugging along until the thermals crap out or when the warranty expires, and then repaste.

 

Honestly, there were times I considered if it was worth the risk/hassle whilst I was midway through LM repaste and pad replacement. It's the risk associated with putting it all back together and having it not turn on that looms over you the entire time you have the thing open up and are messing around.

Once it was all back together, and turned on and I got awesome temp reductions, it was all worth it. If it didn't turn on, I would be telling a different story.

The fan headers just slide out, there's no securing/clipping in mechanism. It's only the battery connector which you have to slide the metal clip out of the way. None of them are difficult, just be gentle and don't tug any wiring, and you'll be good.

It sounds like your laptop is running games well at stock. So you wouldn't really experience any performance gains. That's not true for everyone here. My unit didn't undervolt as well as your own, and I was hitting low 90c often during gaming. What you would gain on is acoustics. This is the issue with the lack of fan configuration currently in Armoury Crate, it kinda masks the thermal gains seen from my LM repaste as the fan profile does not really get aggressive until 80c+, which mine almost never hits now. I have yet to figure out how the manual fan control in Crate works, in fact I think mine is bugged out as it seems to have no control over my fan profile.

If you are considering a repaste, just be sure to be careful taking the warning sticker off the heatsink screw (it comes off fairly easily without damage) and put it somewhere safe! Mine ended up stuck to my laminate flooring, and I damaged it slightly whilst getting it off. Probably not an issue living in the UK, but if I ever have a non-GPU/CPU related issue with the laptop, I would rather any RMA engineer be unable to see that I had removed the heatsink at some point. I'd be removing the LM for non-conductive thermal paste if the need for an RMA ever came up anyhow. Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut looks very similar to the stock paste, so if you did want to repaste with this, I am almost certain you could do this without ever having to worry about warranty, (just keep the warranty screw sticker safe and remember to apply it back to the #1 screw). You will be facing the issue of hardened thermal paste over the rest of the laptop though, as it sounds you've had some decent use out of it.

Also worth noting that the heatsink might give you trouble when it comes to lifting it up off the dried thermal paste. Don't pull too hard on the left side of the heatsink (it looks like the best place to grab hold of it, but you will end up having to bend the heatpipe back), you're best applying some sidewards/shear force to the heatsink to loosen it up, then trying to pull it up from around the CPU/GPU. Just my experience so far.

Glad I could help!

 

Thanks again for the information...the sticker you're referring to is the tiny black one on the screw head, right? It has an exclamation point in a triangle? If that's all the ASUS is using to show void of warranty, that's kind of silly, lol.

 

That's the one. Very easy to remove without damaging.

 

The temp of gpu went to around 86-88°c then went down to around 82-84°c.
Yeah i know this laptops(gaming) will go high in temp, but dayum boy, so high? Well i guess this will have to do, because repaste dosent come as an option.
On another note, dose anyone else have black light bleed? Yesterday when playing Metro Exodus my GF(she is totally against games...women, cant live with them, the end... xD ) saw it and now i can put my eyes off that white/black screen.
(it dosent look so bad on pic, its a bit worse in person)

 

Eh, at least it's not throttling. I think the GPU throttles at 90/91c.

That's more IPS glow than backlight bleed. The lighter corners (particularly your top right corner) is IPS bleed, and is pretty normal. You actually have very minimal backlight bleed from this picture (backlight bleed is the unevenness in lighting on the bottom panel). Mine has slightly worse BLB.

Asus actually have an FAQ on the Scar II which addresses that IPS glow is normal.

From that picture I wouldn't be concerned. You'd probably get something worse if you returned it.

Apparently something to do with high refresh rate IPS displays with low response times.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

 

Well the first few days after getting laptop back i saw high temp., but yesterday i tried again stress test without undervolt and temp of cpu didnt exceed 96°c! Happy!
Guess it had to warm up a few times, to get in all the cracks and to even out.

And this BLB, if you say that its all in normal rates then should be ok, thx for info.

 

See: https://www.asus.com/me-en/support/FAQ/1039102

 

yeah guy's ips bleeding/glow it's pretty standard this days... i had on my previous gl703vm (i changed 4 unit's last year thanks to my seller, and all of them had ips glow/bleed), and i had the same glow/bleed on my new 704gw, but here for my luck it's very little compared to 703.

 

Going to keep the laptop, and ignore the glow!
Yesterday i switched 1tb SSHD for 1tb SSD and its NOICE!
Next upgrade will be probably grizzly kryonaut, when i get the curage and will to do it
Btw did anyone tested Far Cry 5 benchmark on ultra setings and what was the result?
I get fps, max 115, min 85, avg 98.

 

i onyl played till now metro exodus, 1080p ultra+rtx ultra (dlss off) at about 40 to 60 fps (locked to 60) with 50 average; dirt rally 2.0 1080p high/ultra+8xmsaa+taa, locked to 60fps (gpu usage 50% to 85% depends on stage complexity), and last f1 2018 1080p ultra+taa locked to 60 of course with 50 to 70% gpu usage.

With single channel ram it's pretty useless unlock 60fps cap because the single module will bottleneck my sistem. next month probably i will buy the second module. I even buyed a mini displayport to hdmi 4k adapter, will arrive tomorrow here, and i will test because on theory using display port the rtx card will be connected straight to monitor instead of using the intel card to draw on the laptop or standard hdmi connected screens. I'm curious if the thing will be confirmed, if fps will increase cause of a lower latency and greater bandwidth. Of course single channel limitations will remain but... will see

 

Im really interested to see the FPS on external display, hope you post results soon!

 

I tested so far in last couple of days and well... no fps gain at all, but i confirm that DP is directly attached on rtx 2070, that drive the external display (so, this is GREAT if you have a freesync-gsync monitor, i plan to buy one of these on future months, maybe november-december). I'm curious if adapter quality can impact on the fps gain, but i doubt. The only thing remain to test is only if with dual channel ram can be better on DP compared to internal and hdmi, but we will now this when i buy the extra stick of ram in 2-3 month.

So... by the moment no performance gain, you can use greatly the normal hdmi if you have a normal tv or monitor without DP, useless buy an adapter (only 5 euros, but remain useless if you don't use an hdmi VR that for example only work only with nvidia cards).

 

Good night friends.
I'm having a problem.
After formatting I could not install all the drivers and some programs like ArmouryCrate.
Windows HOME

my model is: GL504GW-DS74

 

probably you missed asus keyboard hotkeys and armoury service, there are instructions on asus site

 

ArmouryCrate can be installed through Windows Store. (Search ArmouryCrate Beta).

I had issues installing this from the Asus site.

You may have prerequisites for installing this for all functionality, i.e. you will need Keyboard Hotkeys installed for the Asus ROG button to open Crate, and the profile options keyboard shortcuts etc, maybe LiveService too, - these can be found on the Asus drivers webpage for your laptop model.

 

Very thanks my friend, all ok !

 

INVERSE GHOSTING ISSUE

@ALL
Please can you check if your GL704GW with screen AU Optronics AUO409D (B173HAN04.0) is also affected by this annoying defect?
https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?107902-GL-Series-(-more)-display-panels-affected-by-inverse-ghosting/

E.g.:


It's been reported even on GX701, using the same screen AU Optronics AUO409D (B173HAN04.0), so theoretically also GL704GW should be affected.