Chastity's Repaste Experience

bios 211 looks like it will be all well and good.

I'm more interested in the fact that people are getting drops of 20c on 30% fan speed instead of 100%.

This is either wrong, or the stock thermal paste is actually doing more harm than good. These results are incredible, almost too good to be true.

 

I can tell you that it dropped my temps a great deal. I just did it tonight and haven't played any games, yet. (I've been dinking around in the forums all night )

It sure made a difference. The air coming out of the GPU exhaust vent is a lot warmer than it used to be. I'm going to guess that a lot of people have a decent paste job on their factory GPU. If you can run furmark for 30 minutes and stay at or below 90C, you probably won't see much difference in a repaste. If you are over a hundred degrees celsius on a furmark bench, it's probably worth the work if you are comfortable taking the entire laptop apart. Keep in mind that I couldn't run a furmark bench for four minutes without a thermal shutdown. I ran one for forty-five minutes and topped out at 88C. Bouncing between 87 and 88 after twenty minutes and never changed after that. This was in a room that is about 26C or 27C.

 

haha 109 in FFIV benchmark and thermal shutdowns i need to repaste... SIGH
ordered IC 7 diamond

will do it this weekend i guess

 

Good for you Jody, nice repaste!

 

This 30% fan thing isn't true. The measuring tools can only detect 30% and 100% but the GPU fan does go gradually up in speed. You can hear this clearly if you have no hearing problems.

 

Hellcry still no solutions for your comp??

mine is going nuts now. more and more GSODs, idling at 78-80 and shutting off at benchmarks due to heat if it doesnt GSOD.

i know how you feel. i could have built an insane desktop for the 2grand i wasted on this paperweight

 

I have no hearing problems and the sound difference is quite a lot.
When hwinfo says it jumps from 30% to 100% it sure sounds like it is doing exactly that.

When it goes from 100% to 30% it also has a huge drop in noise and vibration.
Like I said, I can flutter the furmark on and off to hover my temps around 96c and notice this happens over and over.

Anyone furmarking after a repate want to run hwinfo and confirm the fan never gets up to jet engine speed?

 

i want to repaste but dont have any idea how to take apart the system.. Any guides?

 

Thanks man! I don't know what conclusions we can draw. It seems to me that the GSOD will be some kind of specific hardware flaw in the GPU or the RAM. The overheating is easily fixed, but a repaste does nothing for GSOD.

I just upgraded to the 211 BIOS. My fans run more but it does not change the temperature in Furmark at all. I got exactly the same temp (85C) after half an hour. It does reduce temps a few degrees for normal operation. Once you max out the GPU's workload, it goes to its highest temperature and stays there. I'm thinking that for everyday work and gaming, 211 will be good but it won't help your benchmarks.

 

Hi, Jody, did you try to OC your GPU? xSOD seems gone from my g73 since i OC it to 705/1100.

 

I don't have GSODs. I was saying that because HellCry and a lot of others have them. HellCry is of the opinion that overclocking just reduces the frequency of GSOD. I don't really know.

Repaste definitely doesn't fix it because HellCry already repasted a long time ago. Chastity can run long furmark runs without a GSOD, but I think she runs a custom vBIOS. I am running stock vBIOS and ATI 10.7. I haven't gotten around to installing 10.7a yet.

One would think that a new GPU would solve this, but HellCry has replaced his GPU and STILL has the problem.

On another note for everyone: I had the loud static noise pretty often when my GPU got hot playing Crysis or Dragon Age or whatever. That hasn't happened since I repasted. Long furmark runs don't seem to be inducing the static either. Before the repaste when I ran Furmark and overheated, my laptop booted back up making that horrible loud static noise. I guess it's related to heat. I think that static comes from the HDMI sound output hardware on the GPU. When the laptop does it, plugging in headphones does not redirect it to the headphone port. Therefore I think it comes from the GPU and some GPUs do that when they get too hot.

That is an annoying problem I won't miss. If you are playing games after your family goes to bed and all the sudden your laptop starts making a noise like someone set it on fire... well let's just say people don't like being awoken that way and you WILL hear about it.

 

Ok, I just got done repasting an hour ago. Pads looked ok, but the GPU factory paste was way too thick and looked like it was a darker grey in a couple areas, like it dried out.

Cleaned it all off, used some Corsair A70 supplied thermal paste (thought it was supposed to be really good TIM), but then I noticed it has a thermal conductivity of 4.0W/mK where-as the Tuniq TX-2 I have on hand has a 4.5W/mK rating... so I could have saved a couple of degrees using the TX-2. I also pulled the heatsink off after initial application to verify it covered completely, which I know probably caused some small airbubbles underneath.

Anyways, the end result is an idle temp of 59-60c (was 72-75c before the repaste) and a half-hour Furmark load-temp of 91-93c (which is better than the 110c shutdown I was having)...

I am basically a 2-3c cooler at load than when the laptop was new. I am at least 5-6c cooler at idle than when the laptop was new.

Will be interesting how things will be a month or two from now... If the temps get any worse I will probably reapply with the TX-2. If not then it is better than new so what more could I ask for.

Maybe I'll give the 10.7a drivers a try now. I am currently on the 10.1 set.

 

I've been using the laptop all day and my current idle temp is 55C. I don't own a cooler and the laptop is sitting flat on the desk.

 

I don't think the temperatures will degrade again.

Arctic MX2 and MX3 for example have a life expectancy of 8 years.

 

I wouldn't think any increase in temps would be from the TIM becoming ineffective, I am more concerned about some wiered pressure on the heatsink causing it to not sit flat, thus it could, over time, allow the heatsink to not stay flat on the GPU die.

 

@Jody: Congrats on a job well done, and thanks for verifying my results. I still had a few critics who thought I was cheating on my test runs. Oh, and welecome to Team IC Diamond 7!

@The Beast: You probably lost about 5C of temp reduction when you looked at the paste. Did you at least twist it a bit to squeeze out the air?

 

I just saw a tutorial on youtube for taking apart the notebook... it looks scary!

 

I won't lie. This laptop is not easy to take apart. You have to go slow and be very careful. I paused and backed up the youtube video many times as I went along. It can be done. You need to use jeweler's type screwdrivers and tweezers. The phillips head screwdriver should be small but not tiny. DO NOT DO THIS JOB if the phillips is not magnetic. You will lose the screws. If you are not methodical and gentle you will break a connector or socket and you are flat out of luck. I wouldn't go as far as to say anyone can do it, but patience and care will go a long way.

 

Actually, I was more concerned about tearing or screwing up the pads, so I did not do much outside of screwing it down from one corner across to the other.

Temps are OK for now, better than stock, so if I feel it needs to be redone I will tear it back apart and redo it.

Between using TX-2 and applying it properly without air bubbles, I wouldn't doubt a 5c difference either.

Now for Asus to fix the vBios and to write a decent keyboard fix and I wouldn't have much to complain about.

 

Well I must say im glad I did this my dads laptop runs the latest drivers and hits a high of 98C in furmark its been 15 mins and no GSOD yet so I did something right lol, my method was a little more primitive tho I used artic silver 5 and I spread it with a bounty sheet evenly but only half a peas worth as you did, to clean the GPU surface I used a lysol wipe XD as I dont have alcool hope thats not why i dont have low temps like you but as long as the problem is solved right? the fan is kind of annoying tho revving up around 96C then revs down a min later then right back up lol. is there any way to fix this to make the fans more consistant?

 

Thanks for the tip on magnetic screwdrivers- I hadn't thought of that. Probably would have created a nightmare for me when I try to do a repaste this weekend.

I'm a bit nervous about it, but since I plan to follow the instructions exactly, not too worried. One question though- as long as I don't mess up the ribbon cables, is the keyboard easy enough to get back on? I noticed the tech in the video ended up bending the back of his a bit- would that be noticeable once it is reassembled?

 

The keyboard will get a little bent up in the process of taking it off, and it will never be as flat as it used to be. Mine is slightly less flush with the top surface than it used to be, but it's not terribly noticeable. Make sure you note which way the keyboard cables plug in.

edit: Little tip, just magnetize a screwdriver if you don't have a magnetic one. I just stroked a neodymium magnetic along the shaft of my screwdriver about 30 times and it became thoroughly magnetized.

 

I second that. The back of mine had a few wrinkles in it. It wasn't bad at all and I took it off very slowly. I applied as little pressure as I could pulling up on it and let the tape slowly release itself. Right above my F2/F3 keys the keyboard is a little "bouncy" but that's probably because I didn't put new tape on. I just stuck it back in there with the old tape since it was still pretty sticky.

As far as the screwdriver goes, if you have a small magnet, you don't even have to magnetize the screw driver. Just stick it on the shaft of the screwdriver up high where it won't get in your way and that (of course) magnetizes the whole metal part of the tool. I prefer a real, genuine magnetized screwdriver with the little swiveling top that is made for electronics work.

 

the lysol wipe leaves an antibacterial film, plus the Bounty wipe leaves fibers... not exactly what I would call a optimal job, plus the Arctic Silver 5 is really meant to spread itself.

 

Thanks for more info on the keyboard. A bit of a bummer that it probably won't ever be the same, but at least now I know to be incredibly careful. It's really all that I'm worried about with the disassembly- I'm worried I won't put the cables back in correctly. Unless I chicken out I'll be repasting tomorrow... I'll keep you guys updated.

And Chastity, I'm using the IC Diamond 7 paste. Another for the team?

 

It's entirely possible to get the keyboard off without bending or wrinkling.

Go slow. As soon as you can get a look under there to see where the tape is sticking....get your finger(s) NEAR THE TAPE and continue peeling/lifting slowly.

 

don't forget before and after temps AND pics!

 

The foil is so thin it is going to wrinkle and bulge from being tugged at. Mine was actually in good shape after I took it off, but the thing is so flexible it will bend a bit. All I'm saying is that the thing will be less flat (if only a little) than when you started virtually without exception.

 

when I was peeling my keyboad off the double sided tape was so strong that the metal backing was actually peeling away from the keyboard itself. I had to end up pinching those back together while peeling it off.

 

Exactly why peeling from the foil instead of holding the plastic works so much better.

 

yes indeed, that was my first noob attempt at opening the laptop up, I had a lot of 'what not to do' experiences from that first time.

 

I'm in the same boat as you, gstboy. I've done minor work inside a desktop computer before (never built one from scratch), so I'm not too concerned... but I know I probably won't even touch the LCD cables if I can help it.

 

Can't really get around having to touch them since you have to remove them to flip over the board. They aren't too terribly delicate, I wouldn't worry about them too much. Just be careful when you remount your LCD panel as the brackets can crush them if you're not paying attention to where the cables are.

 

I dident think of the fibers but I also used the bounty sheet to wipe off any lysol liquid. and what you mean by meant to spread itself? Like does it expand or should I have put more? what? Could alwas redo it, it was easy but nerve racking. (especialy since its not mine XD) If somebody honestly thinks I should redo it, I realy dont want to have to order more thermal compound unless absolutly nessesairy. Thanks for any advice.

 

watch the youtube disassembly video... why remove the LCD cords??

only issue i had was flipping over the motherboard the fans came loose from their "sockets" which turned out to be a really good thing since i could clean the filters which were packed with dust

 

1) Arctic Silver 5 works best if you apply it as a small straight line down the center of the die, and put the heatsink on top. The pressure plus heat will spread the paste optimally. No need to spread it yourself, you cannot do as good a job.

2) Using household cleaners leave chemical residue, which can both react with the paste, corrode the surfaces of the raw metals used on the heatsink and gpu die, or insulate the thermal paste. This is why EVERY GUIDE to pasting ALWAYS says to use an agent that LEAVES NO RESIDUE. 90% alcohol is the #1 recommended item. You can use other agents to clean with, like say nail polish remover, but then afterwards, you use 90% alcohol to remove any residue of the other cleaning agent.

Also, never use paper towels, or tissues, as the final surface cleaner. Use something that is lint-free. Coffee filters are lint-free, and are easily disposable, and do a great job of getting up that last layer of paste and residue.

 

problem with applying AS5 in a line is when it spreads, it can go where it's not suppose to and it does conduct electricity, which can lead to obvious problems.

That's why I like a non-conductive paste (I love MX-3)... you just run a bead, and let the paste spread as needed, and if it touches something it should't, doesn't really matter.

 

Has anyone changed out the thermal pads? If so, did you find that they needed to be 0.5mm or 1.0mm?

 

The .5mm pads I ordered look a little too thin. I would go with 1mm pads, or double up on .5 mm ones.

 

mine idles on 45-47 straight out of the box

 

let's see if it stays that way after a month

 

Been a month and a half, and mine currently idles at 52~ on High Performance and GPU clocked at 200/405 (lowest I can get )

 

I have not repasted yet. Here's my temps:

700 / 1000, Idle: 69C
200 / 500, Idle: 56C

I haven't checked the temps at load but I haven't been GSODing for some time, just on the v3 VBIOS. I'm looking forward to an official solution for ASUS (saw an ASUS Rep posting in another thread, discussing these problems and what they're considering for a fix).

Should I repaste? I could probably do it tonight, I imagine it would take an hour and a half to complete. I have a few different TIMs available, my current favorite being the Noctua stuff (but I think it degrades after 2 - 3 years, unlike a lot of others).

When repasting, do you need to replace the double-sided tape used to hold the keyboard in place?

 

I idle at 700/1000 at 56C in a room temp of 22C. Well, not really idle. Internetting and low performance stuff like that.

I think that if you idle at 69 that is a good indicator you have a half assed paste job.

EDIT: Forgot to note that I did a repaste. My load temps don't exceed 90C in Furmark anymore. And 'No' on the tape. It's completely useless.

 

Similar, @ 700/100 I Idle at 56* but this is in 28*C.

 

anyone know if tigerdirect tech specs do the thermal repasting job?

 

Tigerdirect is not a system builder, they only sell preconfigured machines and don't have certain "upgrades" like TIM replacement available. You'd need to order from Gentech, Xotic, or Powernotebooks to get your machine worked on like that.

 

Now i dont know if for sure my G73JH-x3 has this overheating problem but judging by how many people required the repaste job, i think i will do it as well, i mean id rather be safe in the long run no? What do you guys think about that?

 

Your temps are fine, based on the multitude of PMs you sent me today. I would hold off on a repaste, plus I gave you an address of an Asus ASP location in Toronto.