Grab copper and a drill, now!

Dunno. Did you see my screenshots in the first post? Both were taken at about the same ambient temperatures (~1F variance). My modded laptop completely kicked the butt of the non-modded computer. (Max of 91, stabilization of ~90.5 versus max of 86, stabilization of 83).

Both tests were conducted under the same settings, and both were on top of my inactive Zalman. Once my room cools down to about 73F I'll run Furmark with my Zalman on full blast (It's freaking 85F in my room.)



If no one wants to void your warranty, just do the copper blocks. Even without the added airflow, the blocks will provide additional surface area for heat to be drawn out. And they can be removed easily with a razor. Thus speaketh Soviet.

 

It doesn't matter. The difference is still there whether subtle or not. Every little bit counts with the G51.

 

So, I've done the mod on my G51 and run a few 3DMark stress tests and before I was getting 89C max temp. Now with the Copper blocks and IC Diamond 7 I have 82C (MAX) a 7C drop! Both tests were done with 260m GTX on 550 1375 950 and CPU @ 2.5 GHz. (both devices NOT undervolted).

I will stick in photos as soon as I get back home.

 

Ah, another happy customer. Very nice temps, a3r0x.

 

In 3DMark the holes had a minimal effect. Well, zero effect. With copper and no drilling, I maxed at 87C. With the drilling, I still max out at 87. On the other hand Furmark shows the clear difference in temperatures.

Anyway, A3rox, how many blocks did you apply? I remember you saying yours were bigger, so I wanted to see how you formated them.

 

I'm in no way against drilling holes lmfao trust me I was the first to start drilling months ago with my G50 backpanel(moved onto my G51)

I just look at it from this point of view, I use my laptop(rarely but do)on my lap sometimes when I'm just chilling on the couch or in bed and I get ocd about getting dust or my chihuahua's hair into the comp. I used mesh netting to block my holes from that but it does get annoying when on your lap.

Hell if it's always on your cooler or desk, DRILL AWAY!!
I'm planning a new cooler/panel design once I can get my new panel. One that leaves the fan closed instead of open like I made it.

 

sorry but if its not too much trouble you think you could make a guide on how to do this and where to get the copper and such. Thanks ^^ love the idea it seems very effective

 

You can get the copper blocks from eBay, for example here. You could get this thermal tape to stick the copper blocks on. (there is a tape already on them, but this one is made of better quality material/ has better heat condictivity. This mod is very simple. You need to stick the blocks on the GPU heatsink + on the heatpipes. Make sure you clean the surface of the heatsink before sticking the blocks, to remove oil/ other unwanted stuff. Well thats pretty much it, look at the photos how I have arranged them.

Here is a picture. 14 blocks over all.

 

Yeah, I was able to catch it and save it before you switched the image. Be careful when you upload stuff, a3r0x. Secondly, always take down important info silently; don't announce to everyone, "Crap i just uploaded accidentally a photo with my Windows product key on imageshack."

Can you take more of an eagle eye shot of your G51? It's a little difficult for me to tell how the blocks are positioned.

 

I would say go ahead and rip out that foam pad pasted on the heatpipe. It doesn't do anything, and its absence will not be detrimental.

In my own amateur opinion, the placement on the GPU looks very economic. If I had grabbed some more of those longer ones I could have done better placement.

On the CPU heatpipe you can cram more of them in the space where the foam pad went. MAke sure to clean it off the residue with ArtiClean.

 

I'm actually not done 100% with those. There is a copper block on the right side of the photo (different from others) which I'm going to remove and replace it with 2 long blocks.

 

Ah.

When my next pack arrives, I'll try sanding some of them down so that they can actually fit on the GPU heatpipe.

 

You just gave me a good idea - sanding. Just gotta be careful to sand it well, so the back panel will not melt.


PS: I found a great base for making a cutom G51 cooler. Checked the dimensions and they are just fine. Just drill holes, add fans and that will work well (and at least look ok). ...But they are out of stock at my local store.

 

Plastic shouldn't melt when put into boiling water.

 

Yeh according to this table the lowest MP of some plastic is 250F- 121C, so its safe.

 

Ran a test with my Zalman on full blast, just to see what benefit I got from it. Settings are the same as in my original post, however, ambient temperature is nominally warmer at 75F.

I positioned the G51 as down and to the right as I could without it hanging off the sides or bumping over that rubber strip on the front. That way the CPU and GPU were getting excellent direct cooling.

Still maxed out at 86, upon which the laptop's own fan kicked in and lowered me to a very, very consistent equilibrium of 80C. 20-minute trial by the way.


Soviet, I know the aim of your mod is to make it completely self-reliant, thermal-wise, but if you could borrow someone's cooler (preferably a Zalman, just so we can have consistency), I like to see a Furmark run from you. I'd bet you could serve ice cream on your GPU.




EDIT: Did some GPU overclocking tests in Furmark (all other settings the same as first post, Zalman not active). At first I did 580/1480/925, but after I shot to 91C (with the laptop fan at full blast) at about the five minutes mark, I decided to lower the memclock. Settings now at 580/1480/900, (5% over nVidia reference clocks, 15% above Asus stock clocks). Ambient 74F. 15-minute test.

Max of 89C, stabilization of 89C. Memory clocks really do generate noticable heat.

 

Okay, I'll get a Furmark test up and post my results. My girlfriend left her laptop and her NC2000 at my place so I'll just use her cooler.

I will be doing three tests: one with the Edova Xpad, one with the NC2000 fans off, and one with the NC2000 fans at max.

Here is an OCCT test for comparison. http://forum.notebookreview.com/showpost.php?p=5279190&postcount=6

 

Just for the test, drop your memory to say 300mhz and watch your temps go down to 70s I've done it and it's just ridiculous how the GPU memory generates more heat then the GPU itself.

 

Here, Forge. I got it done. I found the results to be quite fascinating.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showpost.php?p=5278853&postcount=68

 

NC2000? I only see the Xpad testing.

 

Sorry about that. I copy pasted the wrong link. Here is the correct link to my test in the Clevo forum. http://forum.notebookreview.com/showpost.php?p=5280293&postcount=714

 

Nice testing. It looks like the NC2000 was a winner there. Though would 73C still be a healthy temperature?

 

Anything under 88*C is a safe temperature. Anything below 80*C is a happy temperature.

 

Hmm. I guess I'm still a little undecided about which I want to get. >.>

 

Very nice, Soviet. It's interesting that the Xpad does better than an inactive Zalman. (I'm paying more attention to level-off temperatures, since when you peak it's only for a short period). It's also interesting that your level-off temperatures are essentially your max temperatures. Of course, your card is overclocked, and I saw the same results when I overclocked (Max 89, stablization 89)

By the way, I notice your AA is only 4x. Then again, your resolution is much higher.


And since you've got Furmark on your mind, I remember some thread a long time ago where I and some other user discovered that 8x AA actually ran cooler than no AA. Mind trying that?

 

I always force 4x AA in my Nvidia driver. I disabled the Nvidia service and deleted the registries for the Nvidia startup so I would need to reinstall my driver to have my settings save, which I'm too lazy to do. Besides, if anyone wants to reference to my tests, they can just run 4x AA on theirs too.

 

Give us results. I want to see how a 9800m GS likes that mod.

 

Hmm. With about two hours of Left 4 Dead, CPU at 1.250v @ 3.06 GHz, and GPU at 550/1375/880, I maxed out at 83C. Ambient 72F and the Zalman was on full blast. That's the lowest I've seen my max in any relatively modern game before... especially with a GPU at standard clocks.

 

Bought 12 of the square blocks and 8 of the long ones from eBay. Hoping to receive em soon then I'll do this mod.

 

12 packs or twelve blocks? The small blocks come in packages of eight. In any case, it's a very effective mod. See below.


Anyway, I have achieved happy temperatures, I think. It's common knowledge that Crysis Warhead is better optimzed than regular Crysis, meaning that the same hardware and graphics settings will net you better FPS in the second game.

But does optimization also mean it runs cooler? I did the last mission of Warhead (All The Fury) with my CPU at 1.250 @ 3.06 GHz and GPU at 580/1480/900 (+5% over standard nVidia reference clocks, +15% over stock Asus underclocks). FPS ranged from pretty good (40-ish) to semi-playable (25).

Game was played with ambient 71F-72F. In-game temperatures monitored with Mark I Eyeball in conjunction with EVGA Precision 1.8, while min/max was recorded with HWM.

Temperatures were interesting. During the actual gameplay, I maxed at 86C, and that was for literally a second when two grenades exploded in my face and a chopper was spraying me. Usually I hung around 84C or 85C, depending on what as going on. Even dropped to 83C when I was cowering behind walls.

My "true" max was 87C and this was during the ending cutscene. I only stayed at 87C for a few seconds at a time, fluctuating between 85 and 86 for the most part.

And yes, the Zalman was off from opening the game to the closing credits. I'm liking this mod, and it's only going to improve once I get more blocks and I fix upmy HDD brackets.




On a side note, has anyone gotten EVGA Precision to work in regular Crysis? The reason I temp-benched Warhead and not the "usual" regular Crysis is because the Precision readout won't display in Crysis but does in Warhead.

Man that's an uber long post just to say "I like my temperatures". Ha.

 

Oh thought they came in 6's, 16 small ones and 8 long ones then.

Those temps seem amazing and I'll hope to see a similar difference when I receive mine. Anyone got ideas of shipping times from Hong Kong to Canada?

 

Usually about a week if you live on the west coast. I invite you to visit to my cooling overhaul thread tonight or tomorrow after I finish publishing it.

 

Be glad to visit it once it's done. I'm planning on doing one once I get all my stuff done.

Speaking of which, anyone know the answer to my question, does Crysis Warhead run cooler than the first game?


I almost forgot to mention my settings when I ran Warhead in my above post. Let' see, 1366x768 (native resolution), enthusiast/very high textures, gamer/high everything else. No AA.

 

I'll probably have it entirely done by the end of the week. I will put up the thread tomorrow morning, but all of the tests will need to take a back seat until the weekend at the latest.

I'd say Crysis Warhead runs just as hot as Crysis. I usually don't actively monitor my temps when I play games, and I haven't played Crysis in a while so don't take my word for it. Basically this entire paragraph is pointless and I just wrote it to waste your time reading it.

 

I won't hold it against you. I guess I could ask in the gaming forums.

The additional blocks better come tomorrow or there will be blood.

 

How many blocks did you have total?

 

As of right now sixteen. The next block of eight should be coming anytime soon.

And then a whole bunch comes a little later after that.

 

Planning to add a lot? Keep us updated. I'm interesting in putting this to use.

 

I'll get a few more then I guess. Anyone know where to get copper'plates'?

 

I figure ~.06-inch (1/16 inch, roughly 1.5mm) copper plating would be fine in for the hard drives. The problem was finding it.

I ended up ordering two C110 sampler packs. I would rather not have had to order the "extra" samples that I'm not going to use, but the alternative was to order a 12''x12'' sheet which would be just as much of a waste.

On the bright side, I can use the thinner pieces to craft a bridge for the GPU (and possibly northbridge), since the heatsink doesn't fully make contact and also why users of AS5 don't get good results.

 

Alright i've ordered myself 18 copper blocks and some arctic silver 5 to try this mod, i get 90 degrees with the undervolt mod at stock asus settings, but before that i used to get 95 degrees and ocing to 280m settings used to get up to 98 degrees (as long as i have my 2 year warranty, i feel relatively safe having those temps even if i am in NZ, since they replaced my G1s when it died, which is currently again in RMA due to the G1sn beginning to die on me).

Just a question to Forge or anyone who's done the mod, did you apply the thermal paste on the gpu, cpu and that other *pu looking thing (i dunno what that is maybe northbridge chipset)?
And are the heat sinks relatively easy to peel off from the c/gpus?
I ask this because, i remember my first celeron processor, taking out the stock heatsink and cooler, the celeron got ripped right out of the socket stuck underneath the heatsink -.-; but luckily it still worked after putting it back in lol...

 

To each his own, I guess. I'd freak out if my GPU was consistently getting anything 90 and over.

I use Arctic Cooling MX-3, and I have applied it to the CPU and GPU. The northbridge has a thermal pad to "connect" it to the heatsink, so there's no need to put TIM on it... but I'm still going to use a shim to get me optimal heat transfer.

First, hell no. At least with the Sekisui tape. I can't tug them out.

Second, if you're going to remove them, you'll need a combination of a citrus cleaner--ArtiClean if you got it--and a razor to pry them off.

Third, you really should remove the heatsink before removing the blocks.

 

Ugh only place I can get stuff is from eBay or anything else that accepts PayPal.

*edit* That link you posted, I can get, but costs $25 shipping for a $5 item...

 

Yow. Where do you live? Shipping for two packs was about eight bucks.

Steep, but not too crazy.

 

Who are you buying from? Shipping is free.

 

I meant not from Amazon, but from OnlineMetal's site. I live in Canada =/

 

Oh, I thought you were talking about the copper blocks. Sorry, I haven't had my glass of milk this morning.