Grab copper and a drill, now!

Im glad to find someone that really UNDERSTANDS the principles of Thermodynamics, nice guide btw +rep, Ill edit his photo and point out his errors, I just want to help and not to disturb .Btw there are many other ways to stick the blocks, its just that the tape is a big bottleneck.



Ok here we go:
Blue- You are obstructing the air flux over there, remove that block.
green- You are obstructing the air flux by putting those blocks that close from each other.
yellow: That thermal tape is not that good* I know its hard to stick it but you know,,,,
purple: Overall thickness of the copper, according to this differential formula for heat conduction : H = (*K)(Area)(DELTA T)/DELTA X ---- Thickness . The thicker the worse for thermal conductivity .
red: ??? REMOVE that tape!, its not magic its physics, the heatsinks work this way: with the air flux over the copper area the copper applies the convection principle and therefore it decreases its temperature.
orange: (the most important in my humble opinion) Its very much copper, you are obstructing the air flux, its not about quantity its about quality .

Im sorry if Im being disturbing, I just want to help you out . NICE 3dmark06 score btw I love your machine.

 

erm I don't get the purple area you circled? thats the GPU heatsink beneath my copper blocks.

 

It is the least important cuz I know that those ram heatsinks were designed that way. In other words if you use a thick material to conduct heat you will reduce the the heat conduction rate.

 

well I already lapped them as thin/smooth as I could get them with 320grit sandpaper, and its damn near impossible to find 3mm-4mm blocks (those were 5mm) that are actually 3-4mm in rl and not just on a spec sheet.

 

What would you recommend I do along the heatpipe of the CPU and the GPU block layout?

 

Well I would say that you should separate them and remove some blocks, not many just some. Check the first post, Forge did it nicely, he gave some distance to the blocks, he tried not to obstruct the air flux over the gpu area, and since that thermal tape is not that good I would suggest to cover the most possible area surface with the blocks. Use canned air to remove dust, and listen to Soviet, avoid to touch the blocks and the heatpipes, clean everything like he said .

 

lol, basically what I told Abula I was gonna do earlier on steam. Was gonna mimic forge's placing and go from there. I was also going to move two of the smaller blocks to the GPU heatpipe nearest the top of the image. So- I should probably put the blocks on the pipe lenghwise with ~1cm or so of room between them? (the 22mm long blocks)

 

YES yes that is nice, 1 cm its ok, nice to hear that you lapped the heatsinks that is very wise . Try to find the cover vents and if you dont obstruct the air then place a block over that position

 

that might be a big issue- my GPU is probably clogged as there isn't much room there under the gpu vent.

 

PM sent, MexicanSnake. You will be interested.

 

I'm guessing its a few images of the new KGB exclusive. I want in damnit! I'll be doing that exact same mod in a few months!

 

Nope, it's just pics of Forge's mom.

 

erm...nevermind then. NOBODY wants to see that :|

 

@Soviet: Thanks I would love to help. Count me in .

@EIement: Yep thats the problem, but its not impossible, its just something I have to talk with my bed (Ill continue to help you tomorrow Im tired ) http://forum.notebookreview.com/editpost.php?do=editpost&p=5648265

 

That's why I PM'ed it instead of posting it in the thread. It involves a donkey.

Excellent. I will be collaborating with you on a few things after Christmas. I'm a bit busy with stuff right now so I won't have the luxury of proceeding with the W870CU cooling overhaul or posting much on NBR.

 

Roger that . Your secret its safe here .

C ya guys my bed is calling my name .

 

So is there a downside to using epoxy?

Any ebay link to what would be suitable?

 

Epoxy is pretty permanent, its alot more difficult to get off (so will void warranties if you need to send it in)

 

My mom would slap you for saying such unkind things.

And then she would cook you enough food to last you three full weeks. That's how Filipinos roll.

 

http://g.imagehost.org/0209/100_2600.jpg





Change in furmark is addition of a stabilization temp, 83ishC bouncing between 83 and 84c. This is worse than my previous non-copper tests still but I think I can attest this to paste at this point. Will try re-applying once I get more paste. Am also gonna do some in-game tests shortly and see how my gpu heats up under previous game conditions.


*EDIT*


Run of Crash Course Campaign at the same clocks left me 8C (maxed at 64C) lower than previous runs (maxed t 72c) with my other block arrangement, thank you very much mexican snake, +rep Oh and my CPU is also lower, previous max of 45c current max of 40c.


*EDIT 2*


CPU max temp in Intel Burn Test dropped to 53C from 66C on previous run:

 

Hey nice to see that it worked fine for you EIement, Im glad to help !!!.

 

hot dam!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you are pro mexicansnake, +rep

gotta bookmark the section you wrote just incase for when i try this down the raod after warranty is gone.

and also...about lapping them...is that 100% needed? did most of the people here do it? cuz as Eiement as shown, it looks like a time-exhausting process. by doing that, it should effectively trim the thickness of the copper blocks by 1mm or what?

 

Lapping is necessary for the Chinese copper blocks because they have a very prominent concave "taco" curve at the base, meaning that only the two outer edges of the base will bond while the middle won't. You don't even need to do the razor blade test as the curve is that bad.

Lapping the blocks to remove the concave base will only shave off a quarter to half a millimeter at most. But this will greatly improve thermal transfer between the existing heatsink and the blocks. Removing material is not going to affect performance as the effectiveness of the blocks is more dependent on surface area moreso than mass.

 

Correct. The placement of the blocks is really crude. EIement removed the fake grill that's blocking his fan, but his temperatures are still very similar. This is because the fan, like all other notebook fans, are still in very close proximity with the desk, thus still creating turbulence and forcing the fan to draw some CFM from inside the case to compensate. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...bookreview.com+soviet+turbulence&start=0&sa=N

In EIement's pic of his design, most of the blocks on the left side of the CPU/northbridge heatpipe are not facing the fan, meaning that the heat dissipated between the fins will not be vacuumed up as well compared to if they were parallel to the fan. Here is a pic of Forge's backpanel as an example. http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/ShadowForge762/G51 Modifying/Backplate1a.jpg. Disregarding the holes that he made, the vents that were already there are located over the GPU and the RAM. The OEM vents are really small and narrow and the mesh covering them just ruins CFM intake even more. But with the holes that Forge made, it will put less load on the OEM vents and allow better intake for the fan, with or without the fake grill removed. Anyway, half the copper bars on the heatpipes aren't facing the fan directly. This affects the G51 as there is very little ceiling clearance to work with and the blocks are pretty much near the top of the backpanel already, as opposed to my M570TU where I had plenty of clearance left despite using 8mm blocks. This means that CFM can still flow over the blocks since my M570TU still have generous clearance left over while the G51 doesn't. Also, most of my blocks were facing the fan and they had a larger gap inbetween each fin, which is better for a low CFM environment.

 

With the addiion of more holes above the GPU, my Stabilization temp is 81c with my fans kicking in @ 90c. The rollercoaster still comes back on occasion. I shall test 3dmark06 now.



*edit*

3DMark Temperatures After Copper mod:





3C lower then before.

 

Correct!, that is done to increase the area of contact so there is more heat transference.

Also lapping the blocks will make them less thick which is better for heat transfer. Like soviet said, the mass of the copper is not the most important thing, its the contact surface! .

BTW!! thanks SACH7002 , I would say that lapping its not 100% necessary but its very important and it will improve thermal conductivity.

 

@MexicanSnake



Would a block formation like this:


http://g.imagehost.org/0694/100_2600.jpg


work better? (the red arrows are pointing towards the fan, I'd have the long thin blocks in that direction ~.75cm apart)

 

It would be good too but not as good like your current setup you did it very nice!. +rep

Here is why:

Since the tape is not a good heat conductor there is a big bottleneck and to decrease the bottleneck you must increase the surface contact among the heatpipes and the blocks. Thats better for thermal conductivity.

The fans work this way:




But since the fan is covered vertically this will not improve temps

 

The fan is not covered vertically. I have removed the covering over the fan.

http://g.imagehost.org/0621/100_2605.jpg


and yes, I know the cutting was horribly done =P. I'll show you what I mean about the blocks tho-cuz I'm getting the same surface area the way I'm planning it, and the fins on the heatsinks are in the direction of the airflow

 

I see, you modded the fan cover... Interesting indeed interesting, that might be really good but dont forget that the contact coverage is one of the most important things. Urmmmm yes the air from the fan could even bounce and refresh the blocks with the air flux... Check my thermal fan images those could help you to understand the needed positions for your idea.

 

For anyone wondering, here is my failpaint blueprint:

http://i.imagehost.org/0204/Untitled_20.jpg