Grab copper and a drill, now!

Ditto on what Soviet has said. 4mm or 5mm will fit just fine.

And honestly, the quirky fan thresholds of the G51--and I'm assuming G71--are such that a notebook cooler doesn't help your maximum temperatures any, at least in load. In just about any ambient, and with an active Zalman, an inactive Zalman, and the Xpad, my GPU maxes were either 86 or 87, depending if my fan wanted to play nice that day.

I do notice lower idling temperatures, and faster drops after I stop stressing it, but max remains pretty much the same.

 

If you added a second fan I think things would be different. The problem is that if I attach the second fan using a Y splitter like I plan, the 2nd fan will also be under the mercy of the bios and will only kick on when the main one does. Load temps will drop much faster but I'll also be cycling more frequently which sucks. Splicing the USB connection and adding on an internal one would be ideal but that would void the warranty...damn...what to do. I wish the motherboard had an extra fan header that was in an always on state.

 

You're right, at least if you can make it so the BIOS doesn't get its data-hands on it.

Ah, that pesky BIOS. See, you should have gotten a Best Buy one. Then you won't have to worry about a warranty.

 

Nah, I can't stand the BB version's display. I can barely tolerate this one as it is, that one would've pushed me over the edge and I'd have returned the laptop long ago. I just read the European W860CU review and apparently it has a crap display as well. Hopefully US retailers fit it with an LG like they've done in the past because the brightness on the Euro version was horrible. I go home in 9 days, I can't wait to rip this sucker apart..there has to be a way to get around the fan limitation. I'm not fond of the USB option because a cable would be bulging out from under the laptop and it would look very unprofessional.

 

Can't have your cake and eat it to.

It's a good thing I have low expectations of displays.

 

Curious about one thing. If I were to get a G51 from a place like Xoticpc and had them apply AS5 or IC Diamond would that null the warranty or would it still be good?

 

Good.

10chars

 

Hey, I'm considering buying the Asus G51vx-rx05 off of bestbuy ( http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=9366651&type=product&id=1218092150636)
and I'm wondering, how risky is this mod exactly? If I bought this I'd like to keep it as cool and quiet as possible so this seems like a good procedure, but I don't want to destroy my laptop and waste $1000.

 

I can't begin to tell you how many people I have converted to Soviet Style that has done variations of this mod with very little to no experience. The risk is definately there. As long as you follow common sense, you will be just fine. Remove your battery properly ground yourself whenever you access the inside of your notebook.

 

I don't see what kind of a risk there will be. Your just sticking mini heatsinks onto the ones you already have.

 

Just for comparison, I've never opened up a laptop before.

 

What if one of the heatsinks falls off and shorts 2 different pins on the motherboard...
Don't even try to stick the blocks using the stock tape.

 

Am I missing something here.

These seem to be the exact same product RHS-03 however the sellers give different dimensions.

13 x 12 x 5 mm
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270443066135&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

10 x 9 x 4 mm
http://cgi.ebay.com/Copper-Heat-Sin...in_0?hash=item3a4cc03feb&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

I understand that the height might be +/- 1 mm since as mentioned before exact measures are not their forte, however +/- 3mm seems just plain odd. So anyone know if the RHS-03 comes in multiple dimensions like these sellers would have us believe or is one seller just ruler challenged (which one to).

 

they are being sold from hong kong. one or both of them might be knock offs.

 

What's most important here is the height. 4mm and 5mm are both short enough to fit in the G51, and the other dimensions are already smaller than most other VGA heatsinks on the market. Just buy them and put them on. Copper is copper.

Just make sure you lap them flat and not use the subpar thermal tape that comes with them.

 

How smooth is this heatsink without lapping it?If it looks flat,and it's not really,really rough,lapping it is a waste of time,when attaching a heatsink to another heatsink lapping will offer close to no gain,only if its surface is really uneven.

 

I don't plan to lap mine either. Just going to use a small amount of thermal compound to fill the gaps and good tape.

 

Because there will be thermal tape and/or paste between the blocks and the mounting surface, you do not need to lap the blocks smooth and shiny. The primary goal is to get it flat to maximize contact with the adhesive and the mounting surface. You can pretty much stop at 200 grit just as long as the surface is flat. Only when you lap the mating surface of say a CPU coldplate would you need to lap it to a higher grit up to 3000.

Also, make sure you sterilize the blocks and the mounting surface before you apply the thermal tape. Rubbing alcohol or citrus cleaner will work well.

 

So I assume the answer to my question is that these heatsinks are not smooth at all,right?The only way 200 grit would be better than how it comes from the factory is if the surface is really uneven.
I get the feeling you are lapping just to make sure it's flat,am I wrong?

Also lapping up to 3000 grit is too much even you are lapping from direct on-die contact,I've lapped up to 2500 grit my Core 2 Duo IHS,but it was more to get a nice mirror finish than for perfomance,the general consensus is that above 1200 gives no further improvement.

 

Yes, the heatsinks have a very noticable concave "taco" curve. That's why I suggest that users lap it flat starting with something like 100 grit, then 120, 150, then stopping around 200 grit.

Yes, you are also correct about the CPU IHS. Lapping beyond 1500 grit is unnecessary as the results would be on a fractional level. However, the goal of lapping at a fine grit is to mimimize the amount of micro burrs remaining on the surface. A mirror finish is only the aesthetically pleasing byproduct of lapping at a high grit. Whenever I do lapping work on my clients' machines, I always stop at 1500. But for my own stuff, I take it up to 3000 just because I can.

 

Ok time to theorycraft.

I bet you could fit/mount either the 25mmx6mm or the 30mmx6.9mm 5VDC fans from Sunon in the area that the fake grill is. The problem would be how to power it.

Also would it do any good, and should it blow air in or suck air out?

I wonder how hard it would be to tap one of the usb ports for power since it 5VDC?

http://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/fans-5v.html
scroll down to see them.

Thoughts comments

 

It would be easy to power it,as long as you can know how to solder.You probably don't have to it the power from a single USB,just search for an steady 5v supply with a multimeter,it will have one.There is probably a 'central' supply from where all usbs are powered.
I think it would provide a good improvement,my guess is that sucking air out would be better than blowing it in since there is no way out(the fan it uses takes almost no air from the inside).Anyway it would be better to test if it's better to suck out or blow in.

 

The G51's fan intake is scattered all across the backpanel. Having a second turbine removing CFM from the inside would interfere with the performance of the main fan blowing cool air into the radiator.

 

What's the name of the brand you recommend?

 

Sekisui #5760. http://cgi.ebay.com/Sekisui-5760-Db...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2a01b2f311

This should be way more than enough for your needs.

 

Could you edit this picture to explain how is the airflow on this fan?Or maybe a better one,this was the best I've found.

 

Agreed, sucking out air would be counter to the existing one. I plan to add the second fan on the other side and cut out a hole for it to draw in cold air let the existing one pull it across.

 

Is that 'hole' directly over the exposed area of the fan and/or over the fans fins?If so,I stand corrected,it would be much better to blow air in.
But if it's left or below the fan,then I think it would be better to suck air out.

 

I'll be adding it adjacent to the existing one near the GPU if I can fit it in. For now the plan is to draw power using a y-splitter from the existing fan header unless i can come up with a better solution or someone else does. Soldering is out of the question, I want to keep the warranty intact for when I sell this laptop in the near future.

 

WOW!! I just finished installing my copper ram sinks (24 in all) and now the idle temperature on my GPU+Cryo LX (which is clocked to 550/950/1375) is comfortably at 48C and under full load with furmark is on 76C (down from 54C/89C)

My CPU temps are down from 46-48C to 36-39C.

Those are awesome numbers in my book!! Thanks for the heads up on adding the copper blocks. I will post a picture tomorrow.

 

Can you get a pic of where you placed them?

 

Look at the first page on this thread.

Your G50vt looks more like a G51 than it does a G71.

 

Well u can always buy an extra cooler n do the soldering on that one. G50V-1A CPU Thermal Module Assembly

 

What I mean is a solder between the USB power source and a 2nd fan. It would void the warranty. I wonder if alligator clips would do the job?

 

Not sure if i would trust alligator clips to withstand the daily movement that a laptop can encounter without slipping off and then potentially doing some damage.

Joker what fan are you thinking of going with?


Also I would tend to agree with the "blow in" theory if I was to place a fan. Just like Joker its the whole issue of how to power the fan safely and securely with a non permanent solution. The answer may be there is not a non permanent solution so it may have to wait.

Since I have 2 extra bottom panels to play with I was thinking one might just have to include a little fan.

An idea although it might seem odd or look funny but what about soldering the fan power lead to a USB end (if possible)and just having the fan attached/powered externally by one of the laptops USB ports. I could probably have the cord run along the inside of the bottom panel and exit near one of the side or the rear usb ports, and give the cord say 3-4" play so I can plug it in to the port.

The other thing that would be nice is since this fan is not controlled by the bios so it could run all the time keeping the temps down or unplug it if I am not doing any GPU "heavy lifting".

Really the more I think the idea through, adding a small fan might be a good "portable" alternative where one does not want or can carry around a powered cooler but maybe counter productive when paired with an active cooler. I think if I opened up the area and had an active cooler it would do just as good if not better as having a small fan there and might even block some of the air forced in from the larger fans of the coolers 80mm or 120mm.

 

I came across this and am planning on trying it out on my sig computer. As for adding a fan and power, why not just use a USB port to power. An old USB cable ran to the fans and tucked away somewhere when not in use or get a retractable one and only plug in when needed. Something like this- http://cgi.ebay.com/USB-A-Male-to-m...ltDomain_0?hash=item414970943d#ht_2926wt_1165. And they are easy to shorten and still use the retraction function. Just a thought.
When I get mine done I will try to update.

 

Just got the mesh for the moding the bottom,






But still 2 weeks more for the back plastic part to arrive.

 

Very nice, Abula. Those look like the cheapo $3 grills from Xoxide.

 

the grills were a like $3.25 from coolerguys, but also bought some others in case the inner bubble like circle didn't fited or seated from the back, with that in mind got 2 others 120mm, not sure what im gona use until i dremel the back, im hoping the 80mm works else ill cut the biger ones to have a more flat less bubble look.



The big ones are stronger and more rigid, also one has different size holes but not sure if it would let more air go in.

 

Sounds like a plan, Abula. I think yours is going to turn out great. I'll be watching you from my mountain top.

 

I will, as well, even though I'm only like a third of the way up.

If I could find the right tools I might do that to mine.

 

i was wondering if i could place there 14x14x8mm copper blocks. are there enough space for 8mm height?

 

No. 10char

 

, Asus store just screwed me. Friend that order the back part just mail me.

Checking their website it seems it not in stock anymore, so idk how this will end up, probably will take more than a month to come to me.

 

I'm finally back home! Going to settle in and then order the copper + tape and buy a dremel later this week.

 

With the weather getting colder and my computer modded enough to give me fine temperatures, I might as well flash it up to 500/1375/825.

brb

EDIT: Yay. And I wonder who near me has a dremel.

 

Me. 10char

 

I mean at least in the same area code.

 

Hmm I have a dead HP tablet notebook that I forgot about. I took it apart before I left to Chicago and noticed a low profile 4 pin fan sitting on the ground that belongs to it. I think I'm going to try to put it to use for my mod.

 

why not using the Arctic Silver Ceramique Thermal Compound to "stick" the cooper blocks safely and with a good disipation ?