*Official UL30VT-X1 Owners Lounge*

Asus has released new Elan touchpad driver version 7.0.5.10 and also new Power4Gear Hybrid version 1.1.30. Both are available at Asus support download page. Elan touchpad driver is available at Notebook->Drivers->Touchpad while Power4Gear Hybrid is available at Notebook->Apps->P4GHybrid.

Of course, there's no reason to update to the new versions if you're happy with your current ones. The above are only for the curious or those with OCD who must have the latest and greatest.

Please post your experiences with the above drivers here if you decide to try them out.

 

i wish there was a deal for this
buying msrp = :\

 

Thanks David for the excellent guide. My keyboard chassis is a bit mushy and I was wondering what's behind them. Do the latches just pop off or do I need to worry of breaking any plastic latch?

 

The latches don't break that easily. I want to say they are clipped on and supported by a strong spring-like mechanism, so you'll have to use a small paperclip (I used a small flat-head screw driver) and push it backwards with quite a bit of force. I remember having to pry the keyboard with my fingers after unclipping the first latch (I started from right to left). It'll take a bit of courage since it will feel like you're about to break the keyboard

 

That would be an excellent solution, then. Please post pics and detailed how-to after you're done! I guess the backlight would always be on, and only have one brightness level, right? A small price to pay...

PS: I miss your eskimo or snowsuit man avatar and all the iterations he has gone through over the years...

 

I sure will as soon as I have some free time.

Regarding the backlight being always on, the one thing that pops to mind is to simply disable the USB port from device manager. It's definitely not as convenient as other backlit keyboards with dedicated on/off buttons or hot keys, but at least it's something to work with. As for the brightness level, I would also assume there will only be one setting.

Because of you, I'll change my avatar back to the monkey

 

Where is the latch? Is it on the small slots on the keyboard as indicated in the perforated squares on your picture below? Is the latch like a lever that I have to push/pry in the hole before it comes off, or do I just stick a plastic blade and pry back?

 

Guys, I thought I would share

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280470342346&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

It's a good price for 8GB RAM is anyone is interested. Just buy TWO of them. The store is actually Superbiiz or Ewiz. I looked for an 8GB (2x4GB) listing but they are all OVER $300! I just bought 2 of these. It's certainly cheaper than getting them from listings that sells them in a pair. The model number matches the the RAM modules from my Quad-Core DDR3 HDX18T as indicated by CPUZ. I have no doubt it'll work just fine as the UL30VT uses the same type of DDR3 memory.

 

So it's a monkey! Mystery solved... I sorta thought it was a stylized version of Kenny on South Park. Makes sense as you like to monkey around with your computers...

I'm a big fan of DeVore speakers, have two sets from the Gibbon line, and a pair of Silverbacks. Long live the monkey!

 

I got the keyboard off. Interesting to see the fan behind the keyboard... Still so clean!

 

Guys, please post a picture of the laptop without a keyboard. I am just curious.. Also can you fix some keyboard issues? Too loud, too high, too flexible??

 

Once you stick a screwdriver inside the small slots, you'll have to apply pressure downwards and towards the screen. This should release the clips holding the keyboard in place.

Yup. It's a monkey. Actually, his name is "Baby Milo" from the Bathing Ape clothing line

Gibbons and Silverback? Not bad! I myself like Klipsch. Have a pair of Klipschorns. Although they're made back in the 80s they sound so much better than some of the modern-day floor standing speakers and certainly better than the overpriced/hyped Boose speakers

Good job Now, if you want other parts of the UL30 disassembly guide, let me know. I don't think Asus was too happy when I posted other disassembly guides on the forum, but taking bits and pieces out is ok.

 

Well, we're way OT here but what the hey: I used to SELL Klipsch products back in the mid 70s! So I'm very familiar with the K-horns; I could only ever afford the Heresy model back then myself, but we were full-line dealers. The only problem with the K-horns of course is you need corner placement in a large room, but if you have that I bet they sound as good today as when you bought them.

We also sold Bose 901s, and even demo'd them in the same room; the result wasn't pretty. But most of our 901 sales went to bars and restaurants, and they were actually a good fit in that application.

But back to the UL30VT; I got my second wifi antenna today and after trying a couple of different routings I seem to have picked up about a bar of signal, so it was well worth the $9. I didn't really have a problem before that I know of, but all my other lappies had better reception than this one and now they are on equal terms. I swear this machine is noticeably snappier than the U80V-B2 I have, even tho that one has an SSD drive and better specs. Somehow the UL30 is a "prefect storm" with performance quite a bit beyond what you'd expect from the way it specs on paper.

 

Very cool, David. Now what I really want to is route a real (long) second antenna behind the LCD screen. I haven't figure out to do that. Somehow, I think that's a major surgery!

 

That's exactly what I figured what I needed to do. That's how I got it off.

 

If I may ask, what was the optimal placement you discovered...and how did you arrive at (as in literal how-to)

....OT, even speaker cabinets are far shoddier today than yesteryear

 

I'd never say I know it to be optimal, but it's the best of three-four I tried. I just ran the antenna along the hard drive bay, through the gap between it and the RAM, and then along the battery side of the RAM slot, the idea being to have it close to unshielded areas like the RAM vents. I'm sure if you're willing to disassemble the computer you could do a much better job, but I just threaded it in where there was space.

Depends on what maker you're talking about. DeVore, not so much, nor would I say Wilson would admit to making a "shoddy" cabinet, and most other high end makers spend a lot of time on cabinet design, bracing, materials, and construction.

 

Taken with my phone... still good hopefully (Click to enlarge)

 

Thanks for the purrrty picture, it's appreciated.

Looks like there's another Asus "voids warranty" sticker there, the little yellow job on the left side, lower part of the keyboard under-cover.

I wonder why they bother with such things, really I do wonder about that...

If one is going to take apart the computer for some good reason, at least have the brains to be careful, grounded 100% of the time it's open and potentially fragile, and have a darn good reason to undo that particular screw...

 

The increasing/ decreasing brightness button of my ul30vt (Fn+F5/F6) do not work after hibernation. How can I solve it...?

 

Reboot then install all the latest ASUS keyboard utilities from their Web site by going to ASUS Support>Downloads>Notebook>Apps>ATK... etc. instead of looking in the files section of the UL30VT forum, which is updated only rarely. Hopefully one of the newer versions will solve the problem.

 

I have noticed the same behavior... a non-elegant fix is to switch between integrated and discrete graphics, the functionality is restored after I do that.

 

Did you swap cards? If not, where did you find the second antenna port on the atheros?

 

It seems only the very earliest units to ship had the card with 2 antenna ports (and some at least had wifi reception issues); the newer versions only have 1 port but nobody yet has reported any reception problems with them. So for once Catch 22 works for you: if you don't have the port, you don't need the antenna!

 

So wait... is this a case of Anti-"Murphy's Law"

I picked up the intel wifi-link 1000 for $13 from provantage when I ordered the a1 as a preemptive measure... so I may swap them out just for benching purposes.

 

I got another question.
The original setting of profile "Quiet Office" is that Aero enabled when using AC and Aero disable when using battery. But when I plug in switching to AC from battery while the windows is on, the Aero effect is still disable. I change to Aero Theme in Personalization in Control Panel to enable back the Aero. However, it turns out to have Aero in both AC and battery mode, and I cannot find any setting with regards to automatic enabling and disabling Aero.

 

The control panel is probably in conflict with the program you are using to enable Aero, bottom line. I think that there's many conflicts in the P4G CP vs. the standard Windows CPs, especially once you start customizing the settings in the P4G CP itself...so I wouldn't expect things to be *perfect* with all the preferences floating around, as you are discovering yourself.

If you find a solution by all means post it, but I for one have simply dispensed with using the standard P4G CP settings, have customized every single one of them by now, and couldn't be more pleased with my *own settings* vs the original settings from AsusTech...none of which were to my liking anyway.

 

Did you go ahead with the purchase?

Seems ok, but the scary part:

"No returns accepted for this item..."

Did you see that by chance?

 

Rex, and others, I would love to see your favorite battery-stretching settings. Do the ASUS Power4Gear work better than Windows own Power settings? What's your favorite setup for long life but still have reasonable performance on battery?

I ask because I don't use the computer on battery often enough to experiment, but the few times when I do cut the cord I need it to last a long time. Any tips or opinions welcomed.

 

Ummm... yes I sure did. I made VERY sure before I ordered it. The do allow exchanges for DOA. The mfr part number matches with what I know will work on the UL30VT. That's when I ordered it. I'll let you know if it doesn't work. I know you paid lots more for yours!

 

I don't have any measure of maximum battery life in energy saving mode, but I accidentally got benchmark point with high settings last weekend when I accidentally unplugged the power brick. With Wifi+bluetooth turned on, in turbo mode, P4G on max, and a USB hub w/ DVD, HD and wireless KBM connected, I played close to 4 hours of streaming video through HDMI before the battery kicked it. Oh, and that's on an A1 with a 5600mAh battery.

 

Thank you sooby77, it will be appreciated a bunch! :smile:

I have never seen good notebook Samsung DDR3 1066Mhz CL-7 RAM priced as low as they had it at the eBay auction, so naturally I was not only curious about it, but I scoured the auction for disclaimers or anything "fishy" or unusual that might detract from the very, very appealing price--and that was what I found which was upsetting...

If you say they allow exchanges for DOA that's very good though, as that would of course be my only concern for your purchase, and any potential issues like that, so I am glad for you if that is the case.

If it works out, post more about it here por favor, as I can still RETURN my Amazon.com RAM and score the inexpensive RAM from your merchant...IF they will be offering it again at that price (if they run out, which I anticipate would be the case...with just 20 pieces to sell).

Yes, that is truly an amazing find if it works out to be good RAM...that undercuts the 'market price' by almost half, so Good Find!

 

I am not scheduled to receive the ram until Friday seeing it's shipped from CA. I'll post more once I have it installed and running. Contemplating running some ram test on them, but I know it'll take forever!

 

I remember some of the early owners of this laptop made clean installs and installed the latest drivers to no avail. Its a minor nuisance, and most often, you can just navigate to the windows control of brightness settings and will only take about 10 seconds longer. However, this option has so far on one occasion failed me too. Had to do a reboot before I regained any control over the brightness.

 

If you want to do a good RAM test that takes just an hour or two, to do it right, do the OCCT v3.1 RAM/GPU intensive test, which generates graphs...also check ERROR MODE in the preferences for the CP, which will automagically check for both GPU and memory errors...often happen together if the RAM is edgy...I like that test even more than a simple Memtest for RAM checking AND GPU checking (with its RAM also), as it's complete and comprehensive.

Do the base test, which is 10 Passes, and that should be adequate...

If that RAM checks out, and is the right part to boot, which I'll also be awaiting your post on with bated breath, I'll buy some, if available, and return my Amazon.com Crucial/Micron RAM, which did check out 100% with the above test in OCCT in my case...in fact I ran it twice just to be certain it was ok.

If that eBay RAM merchant is for real and this works, especially if the part is correct because that's the whole ball game, it might signal the end of the current HIGH PRICES on 4GB SODIMMs of the DDR3 1066Mhz CL-7 variety. It just hasn't budged much in terms of price in the past year--once it got to about $210 per SODIMM it just simply hasn't moved down further, so maybe that merchant on eBay is selling at a new "adjusted" price when he is able to buy at least 20 units of it at once from his supplier. :wink:

I am simply speculating on this deal, but if it does portend to bigger and better things/prices, especially on this pricey RAM, I will be very, very pleased!

 

UL30VT-A1 is now $799.99 on amazon.. order em quick before they run out!

(ships in 2-4 weeks)

 

I haven't forgotten your post Mr. tallan, Sir, and will get to it in a few minutes, but I want to check a few things in my settings to be sure I have it right (I've been experimenting a bit)... but yes, I've been using 'modified' P4G settings because they seem to interact with this machine better than Win7 base settings, or so I've been thinking anyway since I got it.

Anyway, let me check a couple things and I'll do an extended post on this subject, because it *is* interesting to get into a bit.

 

@Mr. tallan, and anybody else interested, here's some TIPS on the P4G CP settings, and advanced Windows 7 Energy Saver settings which will get maximum battery run time out of the system, and still the computer will be manageable, somewhat responsive (?) (depends on your outlook I guess...), and most things will still work, the important ones anyway.

Now two things up front, because I *know* if I disabled these settings I'd get another hour or more out of the battery, but I keep BlueTooth on, and WiFi on, because I am always needing them and it's a pain to keep going into the CP and changing settings once I start working in this mode...so YMMV on these settings, but here goes... what I have done to P4G CP settings to make it even more energy-saving than the OEM settings.

I use the "P4G Battery Saving" settings, and I modify the base settings a bit, plus the Advanced settings in the Win 7 CP's also are changed, so here they are, the changed P4G settings followed by the changed Windows settings:

In P4G CP Change to:

1)Sleep after 10 minutes (instead of 20 minutes)
2) Hibernate 5 hours (normal)
3) Turn Off HDD in 5 minutes
4) Turn off display in 3 minutes
5) Display Brightness to 33%
6) Battery Saving Desktop, Deactivate Sidebar>both on "YES"!

Processor power management changes to:

7) Maximum Battery Saving
8) Max CPU state to 50% (will run @.9v, 824Mhz, 4X multiplier, 206Mhz Bus Speed...according to CPU-Z), Min CPU state to 5%
9) TURBO MODE OFF (restart necessary if it has been running)

I leave the GraphiX Boost Setting @ 'Auto-Detect' Mode, just so I don't have to restart *twice* to regain functionality with that switch, which *can happen* if you disable it+ nVidia CP...this way only a single restart, to regain Turbo Mode and nVidia CP is necessary after you return to normal settings, plugged in after the battery miser run is over with!

Restart (if necessary), SAVE settings, then Close the CP and let's take a look at the Win 7 Controls for Energy Saver also...

Go to Start>Control Panel>Power Options>P4G Battery Saving>Change Plan Settings:

Make sure Dim Display in 1 Minute, Turn Off Display 3 minutes, and Put Computer to Sleep in 20 minutes is on the CP settings (should be...but check)

>Go to Change Advanced Power Settings-Set Advanced Settings to:

1) Turn Off HD in 5 minutes
2)Desktop background settings-Slide Show-'Paused'
3) Wireless Adapter Settings-Power Saving Mode-'Maximum Power Saving'
4)Sleep>Sleep>20 minutes
5)Hybrid Sleep 'Off'
6)Hibernate>300 Minutes
7)Awake Timers>Disable
8)USB Settings>USB selective suspend setting>Enabled
9)PCIExpress>Enable Maximum Power Savings
10)GPU settings>NVIDIA Hybrid Graphics>Save Power (integrated graphics)
11)Processor power management>Minimum CPU State 5%;System Cooling policy>Passive; Maximum CPU state 50%
12)Display>Dim display after 1 minute; turn off display 3 minutes; display brightness 33%; dimmed brightness 30%
13) Multimedia settings>When sharing media, 'prevent idling to sleep'; when playing video, 'balanced'
14)Battery>Critical battery action, 'Hibernate'; Low battery level, '11%'; Critical battery level, '5%', Reserve battery level, '4%'

Hit "Apply", then "OK", then "Save Changes", Close the Control Panels, and enjoy maximum power savings! You should find that these settings will generate the maximum possible power savings, and you will get, up to 7-8 hours actual run time with the 5600MAH battery in the A1. I am getting up to 6-7 hours with the X1 with its 4400MAH battery.

Like I wrote above, the settings of the Advanced Controls in the Windows 7 CP is redundant, as all you are really doing is making sure that they match the settings in P4G, and don't conflict with the settings in P4G either, most important! When I first set these up, I had to change EVERYTHING in the Advanced Controls because they had their own "minds" about where they wanted to be...and they were in conflict with the P4G settings.

Caveats: You will have to manually RESET TURBO MODE in the P4G CP to get it back, (obviously...a RESTART ALSO!), and the GraphiX Boost button may stop functioning at some point, which also requires a restart/reset in BIOS to "Load Manufacturer Defaults"...that always brings things back to "normal" for me, YMMV.......you may not have this problem just saying what mine are at times, not always!

The nVidia CP, the GraphiX Boost button are/can be finicky, but the above always gets them back to OEM status, then next time you shut down/restart, go back into BIOS and select "Load User Defaults" and all will return to normal with Fast Boot enabled, etc etc.

If there are any comments or if you have your own versions of the above, please post in the thread so we can have fun evaluating your settings, too! These are open for scrutiny now, so comments are always ummmm, welcome!

I hope this helps somebody if they don't know about these settings, and/or modifying them to work optimally, as I found this to be pretty much the best of both worlds for me, personally. The computer functions nominally, I still have BT, WIFI, and a reasonable looking LCD display, albeit not nVidia graphics of course, but OK nonetheless....and I can always bring things back to normal and get Turbo mode back when I am finished with a battery run.

 

Thanks, just what I was looking for, I appreciate it!

 

No Problem here...if it helps you figure out all *those settings* more power...it was a pain to do initially, but now that I've done it and Saved everything it's all good...

 

wow rexrzer727, you sure posted a loonnnnggg review on amazon. What you wrote there was more than all the other reviews combined on that page. =P
Nice info tidbits there though. It saves me the trouble of having to tinker around; I haven't had much time to play around...

 

I know this laptop has extreme battery life and runs very cool, but has anyone successfuly undervolted the processor?
Also I'm very scared of the screen quality (viewing angles), how bad is it? is it a big problem?
I'm tempted to buy the UL30vt or the alienware M11x.
The alienware has back-light keyboard, better GPU, seems to have better built quality but its UGLY, boxy, thick, UGLY, less battery-life, overclocks to 1.6ghz instead of 1.73ghz, and slighly expensive as compared to ul30vt.
If anyone has used both the M11x and the UL30vt, can you please tell me which one you liked best?

 

Glad you *read it* apparently! :yes:

I aim to please, and figured that everything else had been done about "type of review" for the UL30Vt-X1/A1 series anyway, so I started in with my tips and treats and tricks for the machine, and didn't stop until I'd written about 6K words! (NOT kidding...I had to edit it significantly, as Amazon.com wouldn't accept it for length, originally)...I don't know how I do this stuff, and it can get tedious-- just too dang long even for MY taste...

I have my fans at Amazon.com, loyalists as they are, and you have to admit one thing...it's different isn't it? :laugh: I look at it this way: people have a choice to read it or not, and if they *do* I aim to give them their time and $$'s worth, because to many people time IS $$!

I hope that there was something of value in it for you, and thanks for the frank, honest comments, it's appreciated.

 

WOW... rexrzer you need to make your own website and review products... everyone will love you for the detail you put in! That review is like three times as long as the essays I write for school haha... that is amazing.

Great job! +rep

 

Boy, do I feel stupid right now! WHAT do you mean by 'Undervolted'?

When you dial in the lower % of CPU in the P4G Hybrid CP it lessens the volts going to the CPU automatically, from 1.05V @ 1733Mhz to .9V @ 50% speed...is that what you mean? Or is it using software/hardware to literally lessen the V going to the CPU somehow?

Fill me in please, it would be appreciated!

With my i7 920-series desktop computers (OEM, I built all of them...3 of them) in my studio I can vary the Voltage going to the CPU in BIOS, to an unlimited degree, it goes without saying...not to mention EVGA's ELEET Control Panel, where you can +/- the volts on the fly, for fine tuning the voltage during overclocking sessions...

 

Thank you Soulsaber, it's appreciated, both the +Rep and the thoughts...

I really do try to be objective and offer simple tips and tricks and treats for all of the products I review, and I do enjoy it immensely, ie the craft of it. I am always open to criticism and commentary, because if you have an open mind about it something can always be improved.

About the website idea, it has occurred to me before to do just that, and there may yet be some news in that regard sometime soon!

 

Undervolting...as in using RMclock to reduce the voltage to the processor. Interesting that CPU automatically goes from 1.05V to 9V. I gues thats what i was asking, though i would love to use RMclock to undervolt some more.

 

Well my clean install has made some odd problems such as the Graphics switch button not work

im going to try the rexrazr's installation instructions a bit back to get it right, but until then i have a question:

is there any possible way to output via HDMI on intel graphics?

it would be extremely retarded if the answer is a definite No considering the UL30A i just had was able to do it and now when i switch to the VT, im getting no response unless in the graphics.

please someone help explain how, or explain the logic behind the answer if it's no.

 

The graphics button function is embedded in the power4gear app. Install that and it should work.

Yes. I've had no problems with that.

 

Put in the HDMI cable, and on the dekstop, right click, select graphic properties and play around with the settings..