*Official UL30VT-X1 Owners Lounge*

Are you saying you can output HDMI video while using intel graphics and not the Nvidia card? Because I was pretty sure (from earlier in the thread) that it only works when the nvidia card is on. And that's been my 1st-hand experience as well.

 

GMA-4500 Audio with HDMI isn't possible...HDMI HD Audio is embedded in the nVidia/Intel HD Audio Driver, so of course that *does not* work with Integrated Intel Graphics.

I think that things are as they should be; it wouldn't be possible to have two different HD Audio drivers with the HDMI audio, and the cable working with two different graphics engines...that would not make sense from Asus's standpoint either...I mean how would they do such a thing?

If anybody knows *how* to do such a feat, I'm all ears and eyes...it is my understanding that a computer would need two completely different HD Audio systems, with HD drivers for each one, separate from video drivers, to pull off such a thing...and I just don't see Asus doing that with this computer, or any other for that matter.

 

Just noticed Amazon dropped the price of the ul30vt-x1 to $779.99.

 

A couple of quick hits:

1. I do not believe that HDMI output is enabled whilst using the integrated solution.

2. Hotkeys that fail to work upon resuming from hibernation can be remedied by 3 ways I have found so far: 1. Putting vt to sleep and resuming work, 2. switching between integrarted and discrete graphics solutions & 3. A registry tweak (currently working on this, as of this writing...tweak leads to instability in hibernation...as in random wake scenarios.) Will post something when I find a more elegant (read: stable) solution

3. Elantech 7.5.0.10 touchpad drivers have proven to be a little more refined. Better palm guard sensitivity, smoother auto scroll... nice drag and drop with double click.

 

Just throwing out there, I recently confirmed that on my A1, HDMI-out does not work with integrated graphics.

 

Any possible buyers should checkout Bing! There is still A1 version for 780 bucks! (You pay 850 and they will send you 70 buck back - in 60 days).. It redirects you on eBay where it is either ExcaliburPC or eGoodz store. But you have to create a Bing Cashback account and enable cookies!

 

Since I suspected that I might have been mistaken about my previous answer, I just fired up my A1, disconnected the power cord and switched to power saving mode with integrated gfx. Playing a movie I had both video and audio throughput to the tv.

Maybe it doesn't work if booted in power savings mode and disconnected from HDMI upon boot, but it certainly works for me this way.

 

A question regarding the VGA driver: could someone try this driver:

http://www.nvidia.com/content/DriverDownload-March2009/confirmation.php?url=/Windows/Optimus/189.07/189.07_ASUS_NB_win7_winvista_64bit_international.exe&lang=us&type=GeForce%20M

and test if it works with this laptop? Thanks in advance

 

My only question on the UL30VT at this point before ordering one is...black or silver? I don't have the opportunity to see either in person, and it's hard to get a good idea from photos. The black seems a tad boring, but I worry that the silver might seem a tad cheap. Anyone have a chance to see both? What say you?

 

The minor issue is fingerprints. The silver doesn't show them as much as the black does. The bigger issue between the two is hardware: silver unit comes with a inferior Atheros wireless card, but comes with a larger capacity battery. Costs more than the black, too. The black unit comes with a superior Intel wireless card, but has a smaller capacity battery.

I own a black one, and the fingerprints really aren't that bad. I keep a small polishing cloth in my carry bag to wipe it down each day. The smaller capacity battery is not a issue to me, and 4 hours of life is plenty for my usage. 90% of the time, I have my unit on AC power anyway.

The Intel wireless card is pretty amazing. At my home, that card picks up 3 other wireless hotspots that my other Asus computers don't see.

 

they are wont work, they are for Optimus-based laptops, they don't include intel integrated video drivers

latest drivers for the hybrid laptops like ASUS UL-VT series is for dell alienware m11x - version 188.55
they are supporting GT325M only, but with manual update of the inf file you can use them for G210M

 

How accessible is the wireless card? I have an Intel 5300 in my current netbook that I could swap in, providing the UL30vt will accept it.

 

You also get a second year of ASUS warranty with the silver model...

I have "piano black" on my U80V, and fingerprints are a constant annoyance. The UL30Vt-A1's silver isn't just a little better at not showing them, it's night and day. And in no way does it look "cheap" in my never humble opinion.

At one point the difference was about $50, which was more than a fair value for the bigger battery and longer warranty; I'm not sure what it is today. You can easily replace the Atheros wireless with an Intel Wifi Link 1000 (which comes in the X1) for about $20-30, depending on how hard you shop online.

 

Just received my RAM. Computer booted up just fine with the 8GB. I've downloaded OCCT 3.1 but I can't find the RAM/GPU test you mentioned. All I saw was CPU:OCCT; CPU:Linkpack; GPU:Memtest; Power Supply; Options.

The GPU:Memtest does not test the computer ram, but the GPU memory. So I don't see how that would help. Any thoughts?

 

Can you verify that with the HDMI out you're on discrete graphics? Just disconnecting the power and selecting integrated graphics may not make the switch if you have something using the video card, like say HDMI out. If you right click the desktop and see NVIDIA Control Panel, then it's still on discrete.

 

I did not realize that the batteries were different between those models. That sort of swings it in favor of the silver, as swapping the wireless card is not a big deal. Right now on Amazon the black shows at $779 and the Silver is $799...down from $849. Looks like I'll go for the UL30vt-a1.

Thanks for the help.

 

Glad to. The wifi card isn't the easiest to access (bit of a tight fit), and you need to make sure you get have the half-height model, but not hard to do either. Be doing the swap myself next week... (Intel Wifi Link 1000).

 

HDMI output will work on discrete graphics, but not on integrated. You could "fool" the system by first putting your UL30VT on discrete graphics, connect your HDTV via HDMI and then switching back to integrated, but I'm not so sure if the system does infact register the switch since even on integrated mode, you're still able to see the NVIDIA control panel.

It's an easy job, but very time consuming. You'll also have to break your warranty seal to do so as well. I just replaced my Atheros card with an Intel 6300 wifi card, so I'm pretty confident that the 5300 would also work.

Here's what you have to do to replace the wifi card.

1. The basics: Ground yourself. Remove battery, hard drive, ram, dummy SD card and disconnect the antenna from the wifi card from the hard drive compartment.

2. Remove keyboard. Unclip 4 latches on top of keyboard with a small flat-head screw driver. Flip keyboard towards you. Disconnect keyboard FPC cable from mobo.

3. Disconnect cables. Disconnect the power switch FPC, hotkey FPC and touchpad FPC cables from mobo and unscrew all screws (should be 10 screws).

4. Flip: laptop upside down and unscrew all screws (should be 13 screws total).

5. Pry: Starting from the top two corners of the laptop, gently pry open the top case assembly with your fingers. Work your way down. You'll start hearing clicking sounds as you keep prying the case - this is normal. Don't worry if the hinges start coming off, just remember which side they came from.

6. Disconnect more cables: Once the top case is removed, you should see the mobo. Disconnect the 2IN1 and LVDS cables from the mobo (next to the fan), the bluetooth cable (lower left corner) from the mobo and lastly the speaker cable (bottom middle-right).

7. Unscrew: Remove the 3 screws with white triangle arrows pointing at them on the mobo. They are located 1. above the bluetooth module, 2. next to the speaker cable connector and 3. the very lower right corner of the mobo.

8. Remove mobo: Remove dummy SD card if you haven't already. Starting from the RIGHT side, gently remove the mobo. You will have to pull the right side of the bottom case outwards to release the mobo. Slide the mobo upwards and to the right at the same time.

9. Replace wifi card: Flip the mobo around. Remove the black plastic sticker cover over the wifi card. Unscrew the 2 screws holding the wifi card down. Swap wifi card.


To put everything back together again, just follow the same steps in reverse order.

If you want to add extra antennas to your UL30VT, you'll have to open your LCD case. I just replaced my card without adding any additional antennas and have gained a single bar in signal strength. If you are compelled to add antennas, please continue with the instructions below.

10. Remove pads/screws: Remove the 6 rubber pads from the screen bezel (4 on top, 2 on each lower corner) to reveal the screws underneath. Remove screws.

11. Pry: Again, with your fingers pry open the bezel. Start with one of the top corners.

12. Lay antennas: Run your extra antennas along the sides of your LCD panel any way you want and depending on the length of your antenna cable.

And that's it. Follow instructions in reverse order to assemble back your laptop.

 

This is definitely the full professional approach. I've already added a second antenna and routed it around the hard drive; not optimal but it gained me a bar of signal. I'm going to be undoing the two screws holding the wifi card itself, carefully with tweezers or a very thin bladed screwdriver lifting up the black electrician's tape, and sliding the Atheros card out; reversing with the Intel 1000.

I'm calling it the "Git 'er done!" method.

 

nvm, was wrong.

still think its so stupid they allow it to work on the non graphic versions, but once you get the switchable graphics one - you can only run it on the video card which hurts the battery more.

intel graphics is perfectly capable of running 720p/1080p and you get better battery

 

Thanks for that. Sounds like what I had to do to get it into my NC10 as well. I never added the 3rd antenna on the NC10, but was pleased with the performance without it.

I may give the Atheros card a try for awhile. If it sucks too bad I'll swap it out. One major function for my laptop and/or netbook is streaming divx files (SD 720x480) from a home media server, often over 802.11N. All I need is the speed and range for that.

 

I just came out of a Silver Asus 1201N to the black X1, and I think that Asus does a much better job with black notebooks in general other than silver notebooks, any color to speak of really. It's hard to put a finger on exactly why that is. But when you think about it a couple items come to mind about silver vs black, apart from hardware differences:

1) Silver editions have a black fascia around the notebook's LCD display, so you've got a silver/black contrast there that isn't so appealing...then again every alloy cased notebook seems to have the same thing going for it, including my wife's new 13.3" MacBook Pro, so it's nothing unique to Asus silver notebooks...They all have a black fascia around the LCD display, and it doesn't blend in with the rest of the notebook, it's not as appealing as it could be if it were silver 100%, including around the LCD.

2) Black, all black in the case of the X1, from top to bottom, is so gosh darn sexy and svelte that it makes the fingerprint issue a non-issue, once you start looking at the whole notebook. It's like my all black BMW M5... it's hard to explain just how good the car looks until you're sitting in it or are literally within 15 feet of it looking at the whole package up close (and the interior is three-toned tan, beige, and brown with M-badges and accents, black and brown dash treatment to sort of blend things together), and then it hits you: "Damn this thing is amazing looking in black, it's so shiny and brilliant, it couldn't be any other color and look and feel like it does."

There is something very special about an all-black notebook, car, suit or coat, even a simple thing like an umbrella in all black, any number of things I can think of offhand. Because a garment, automobile, or statement of design of any kind comes off as a feeling, and a state of mind, an attitude or outlook on things as much as it is speaking about the subject.

Black is simple, elegant, and shows off inner beauty, form, and function in a shiny, reflective mirror image that shakes up your psyche, unlike colors such as red, blue, orange, or brown, all of which rely on contrast with the environment for basic visual effects. Black is everywhere...it's the color of your monitor or HDTV frame, with rare exception; computers are more likely to be black than anything else; your tires, the road, most likely several pair of shoes in anybody's wardrobe...black is universal and accepted.

Black is indeed beautiful in the UL30Vt-X1 too...it gets the job done and looks elegant, fantastic, much better than silver from every angle, fingerprints be damned!

 

That's what I did, but David's instruction was excellent! I just took off the two screw and gently tugged on the screw holes on the wifi card with a mechanical pencil tip starting on the left hole, until it starts to slide out. Replaced the card several times with that method. Worked great.

 

"Just received my RAM. Computer booted up just fine with the 8GB. I've downloaded OCCT 3.1 but I can't find the RAM/GPU test you mentioned. All I saw was CPU:OCCT; CPU:Linkpack; GPU:Memtest; Power Supply; Options.

The GPU:Memtest does not test the computer ram, but the GPU memory. So I don't see how that would help. Any thoughts?"--sooby77 wrote

Thanks for pointing out this error; that is correct, OCCT v3.1 test GPU Memory not System memory: Please dismiss that advice, and my apologies for the error.

I have been using hci design.com's memtest, which is not a sophisticated test like MemTest is... which creates a boot CD or floppy to test all RAM independent of the OS. But it works! Check it out here if you need a test for GUI not the command line or like memtest.com's way of testing:

http://hcidesign.com/memtest

I created multiple iterations of the utility to test all available RAM in the notebook, which seems to test the RAM adequately-- I'm getting no errors using 3 tests at once.

YMMV but if you don't have a utility to test RAM with there you go, and it's free too

I also have been using Everest Ultimate v5.0.2.5.xx to benchmark the RAM and that works 100% for benching it...! Do you have Everest? You could use that also for testing purposes, but I've been using the above test before I do anything with the RAM...

Hope this info helps...

 

I'm using Windows 7's memory test at the moment, and choosing the "Extended" test. I set it to run 3 times. It's taking FOREVER! So far, it has completed 1.5 of the 3 runs. No problems yet. I think the ram from Ewiz I bought from eBay is good!

 

Keep testing it until complete then, if you're using the Windows CLI test, that's pretty complete for software. Of course nothing helps like a hardware test! Wish I could afford one of the memory diagnostic machine (c.$40K per machine!)...but that's a bit out of here...

Post back when Windows 7 dianostic completes and give me the word on that RAM, because I still have 7 days to return the Amazon.com RAM. It may take up to 6-8 hours to complete that test fyi

Thanks!

 

Just bought my new UL30a X4 and i could use your help, guys.
I wish to perform clean installation of win7 but want to hear your experience regarding few things:

Will a new install delete recovery partition? if so how do I go about avoiding that?

does the mobo support usb boot?

How do I obtain win7 files to reinstall, since it comes with OEM does that mean I would have to download a "cracked" version but put the win7 key found on the bottom of the laptop?

Which method is the best and most simple that doesnt require CD/DVD attached to notebook, I may use my desktop's dvd if I must.

thanks in advance!

 

I used an external optical drive, (that's the easier way to do this!), and downloaded all new drivers and utilities (latest) from the web site @ Asus/support...that way you can get the best, latest versions of everything important. Some have used the OEM Driver CD ROM, but I don't recommend that avenue, pretty lame to do that!

The key on the bottom of the machine is good for another Home Premium install, either 32 or 64-bit, so once you have the files or an installer DVD from MS and an optical drive (like I did) simply choose "Install C" from the choices from the installer, install the OS, then install the drivers afterward, do the necessary restarts and BAM! You're a done deal.

 

Nope, a clean install doesn't affect the recovery partition.

Yes. If you plan on using a USB flash drive to install windows, you'll have to slipstream the OS with the SATA driver.

You don't need any crack or whatnot. The recovery disk has a full copy of Windows 7. You can just use that to perform a clean install.

The simplest way is to use an external optical drive. However, if you don't have access to one, I'd say the second easiest is with a USB flash drive and slipstream as mentioned above.

 

Thanks for the fast response, guys. Very much appreciated!

 

Imo, atheros wifi cards are better than intel 1000. i just swapped in an atheros ar5008 in my ul30vt-x1 and the wifi signal are much better now, ar5008 i think is equivalent in performance to an intel 5300.

The only thing left is to buy a ssd, looking for a 128 gig minimum. any suggestions?

 

can somebody tell me that the CoreFreq and MemFreq of G210M of UL30VT is...? Thanks!

 

i have just purchased an asus UL30VT.
The microphone did not work in Express gate while using Skype.
After much fiddling around i managed to get the microphone working in Skype when logged into the OS (windows7 pro).
ASUS customer support in Australia advised me to download and reinstall Express Gate.
Which I did.
The microphone now works in Express Gate but is very faint and the sound fades in and out while using Skype.(the microphone setting on the volume icon on the splashtop system tray is set at 100 %). Any advice on what i can try now?

The other problem is the keyboard - the keys seem to repeat characters, insert odd characters and miss characters even when pedantically typing with two fingers - terrible!!

The function key also does not appear to be working!

Overall very disappointing experience.

 

Woke up this morning and the Win7 memory diagnostic completed. I logged into windows and a little popup said no memory problems found. I very sure the memory is good. CPUZ reports the same module number as my HDX18T. I'm not worried anymore.

 

It seems you have re-installed Windows, and may have left out the ASUS drivers and utilities; there are a number that need to be there for full keyboard functionality, be sure the proper sound drivers are installed, as well. As for the repeats try deleting the Chinese language set which has been known to cause that problem on other ASUS models. If you have a stock Taskbar setup right click on the "EN" and choose delete Chinese language.

Hope that helps!

 

From GPU-z on my UL30VT-A1

Core: 606 MHz
Memory: 790 MHz
Shader: 1468 MHz

 

Expressgate is still very limited when you're comparing it to a full OS like Windows 7. I also think driver support on the linux based expressgate is very limited and mediocre. If the things you want to do are giving you more trouble than you can handle, I'd suggest using windows instead.

 

Guys, I'm having trouble using the VGA output on the laptop. It won't display on any monitor over 1280x800 resolution, and I tried two different monitors (different brands too). I also used a different laptop to connect to them via VGA, so I know the monitors aren't at fault. On the Asus, Windows detects the monitors via VGA as "generic non-PnP monitor" and I can't find anyway to fix that (driver uninstall, Windows reinstall, etc., etc.). HDMI has zero issues whatsoever. WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH THIS DAMN LAPTOP?

 

Did you either:
a) expand your desktop to the 2nd monitor
or
b) pressed Fn+F8 to cycle between internal/external screen?

 

Did both. I did not clone the display. Tried expanding the desktop AND just using the external without the internal. HDMI works fine and everything: full resolution, display detected correctly, but VGA just doesn't detect properly. I've tried different Intel drivers and everything. I am at a loss.

 

I am gonna agree with Mr. tallan...and say a bit more about the problem, too...

If you are going to install a new Windows client like Win7Pro you need to be aware enough to install ALL NEW DRIVERS either from the driver DVD that came with the machine (not such a great idea, will work, but...?), or download all the current drivers from the Support web site and reinstall them all. There is no substitute for new drivers...!

I have a fresh install of Win7HP 64-bit in this notebook and found that when reinstalling the drivers it was best to group them logically according to function, and after each *group* of drivers (ie "trackpad" group, video group, BlueTooth group, etc etc) restart the machine, do a Registry cleanup/repair, restart again, then install the next group of drivers, rinse and repeat. By doing that you get a clean install of the right drivers and fix the Registry too, and you'll find that the drivers work a treat after that type install...

Good luck, and hope this helps you with the reinstall of all new drivers.

 

Wow, that is more than enough testing to convince me, and hopefully yourself, too, that the new RAM is xlnt enough to keep!

I thought the check might run all night long, but I didn't want to tell you *that* last night, figured that "6-8 hours" would suffice, to where you'd get some sleep and then check in the AM today. So good for you sooby77! What a saving that RAM price is! :smile:

I just called Amazon.com and arranged for an RMA on this (admittedly fantastic RAM, but NOT for almost double the price of yours...!) Crucial/Micron SDRAM that I've enjoyed 100% up to now, and they as usuall happily took my "lame excuse" and issued an RMA, me pay shipping though since it "wasn't our fault". So I am pleased...

Now if I can just purchase some from your supplier at the price you got I'll be happier than I am right now...

 

Thanks Tallan

Re: microphone problem. No reinstall of windows - just took the laptop out of its brand new box, booted up via Express Gate in order to try out Skype, microphone did not work. Then tried via the Win 7 pro operating system, which came preinstalled on the machine, and had no problems. Issue seems to be with Express Gate - customer service told me to download newest version and reinstall. This partially solved the problem but microphone funtionality is not good.

RE: keyboard issue. I will try removing the Chinese language set and see what happens.

I know more than the average computer user but when it comes to stuff like this I am clueless. The laptop goes in to a service centre tomorrow if I can't get it to work properly!

From comments in other parts of this forum, it looks like I should consider stripping the machine right back to just a bare bones win7 OS and just add the software I want to use. So not too worried about losing Express Gate if I have to. I am more concerned about the keyboard though. It's not too much to ask to have the thing in working condition when first purchased.

Thanks again to all for your help!

 

I got the Kingston SSDnow V series 128gb recently for my UL30vt, and it works great. It's about half the speed of the high-end SSDs but then its about half the price. With the stock HDD i was booting up in about 1:45...with the SSD it takes about 45 seconds. The whole computer just seems much snappier...don't think I could ever go back to HDDs.

 

Kingston now has a "V+ SSD Now" that reads at up to 230MB/sec and writes up to 180MB/sec, so they are trying to get up to the big boys like Crucial, Corsair, and Intel's speeds these days with the new products.

I wish you the best of luck with the new SSD drive, but caution goes where caution is with them from my perspective. I don't think that your SSD supports TRIM, for example, and that means you'll have to watch out for long-term wear and tear yourself...or use a 'manual SSD cleaner' at some point to maintain high performance.

I like the new Micron/Crucial SATA 6 SSDs that will be available soon, as they are really fast, higher than 340MB/sec read and 280+MB/sec write with the SATA 6 interface, and faster than the best from the other manufacturers with SATA II interface, so that is something to look forward to.

I really still only have an issue with cost of these things, just haven't been able to bite on spending $800 for an SSD in 256GB size yet, because that is the size that I'd need for my uses not the 100GB variety.

 

Hey everyone, Im not really sure if this problem has happened to anyone else since there is over 2.5k posts and cant really search them all, but I've had my UL30VT for about 2 months now and have been really happy but today i turn it on and now I have a large X over my battery saying it has to be replaced?? Has anyone else had this?, is this a flaw in Windows 7 or do i have a defective battery?

 

1) Have you used the battery before? If so, did it work ok, or was there any problem with its use? What happens right now if you pull the plug and go on battery? Have you tried it since the "X" appeared?

2) Do you have a battery checker utility? Does the battery checker in the Windows system tray show a % of remaining battery run time?

You can go to CNET.com and search for "Battery Utility" or "Battery Tools" and come up with any number of utilities to check the battery's condition, such as Battery Monitor, or EmBatPower, all sorts of them are there, some free, some with Shareware fees, etc etc...but that would be step No.1 if I were you and there was, as you say, "A big X" over the battery in the tray.

In other words you can be pro-active and see if there's something wrong with it that the popular utilities can tell you about, or you can be passive and try and have us diagnose the battery problem long-distance, remotely...difficult!

Either way it's a guessing game unless you can provide us with some feedback about the battery, and for that you'll need a utility program for battery use.
Windows doesn't have much in the OS that will tell you how healthy your battery is, sorry to say, so whatever you can do outside of Windows is a good thing, much better than trying to guess...because Windows doesn't do anything for your battery knowledge.

 

A very small note on nomenclature: I think the whole SATA I (up to 1.5Gb/s) and SATA II (up to 3) is being dropped as it's pretty confusing; the latest drives are going by the name of SATA 6, for 6Gb/s. Crucial certainly does not call them SATA III, anyway, on the materials I've seen. Makes sense to me.

 

EDITED! You are so precise, you even got my attention on this deal about the 3 (three) SATA interfaces, which are now:

1) SATA 1 & II - up to 3GB/sec data speeds

2) SATA 6 - up to 6GB/sec data speeds

I just spaced out completely on that when writing that post above, so good job catching it, gracias!

 

I was an editor for many years in one of my "previous lives." It's worth noting that unless you have a SATA 6 interface in your computer (and the UL30s obviously do not) you will not get the full speed benefit from the new drives from Crucial.

I bet we all agree that no matter what they call them the big problem with these products is still the price!