*Official UL30VT-X1 Owners Lounge*

Has anyone found a laptop sleeve for the UL30VT that fits tightly that isn't the Zeroshock III ($30!)? Most of the 13/13.3" sleeves seem like they'll be a bit bigger than I'd like and the UL30VT would slide around in them.

 

I use this : http://www.amazon.com/Case-Logic-13-Inch-Neoprene-MacBook/dp/B00198QUE2

 

I got this and it fits nicely.
http://www.rasfox.com/product_info.php/cPath/62/products_id/126

 

not a sleeve, but best buy has an incase 13" bag for mac book that fits perfect, but is $55.


mitt

 

Thanks everyone, I'll grab one of those two probably. Do either of the two linked ones have a semi or fully waterproof coating?

 

I tried RMClock, but it shows my VID as 1.08v and I can only lower it to 1.01v. CPU-Z however shows it as 0.975v.

Also, how much of a difference does it do for you? I'd like to keep the fans at a minimum. As it is now my core temp is around 37 when idle.

 

i now idle around 29-33, before was 34-37. So it's cool enough that i always leave my cooling mode to passive (no fan).

Not sure about the VID shown in RMClock, but u can actually lower it by .7, while i only lowered it by .5

 

o8x8: I want to thank you for the time and trouble you took in creating the updated drivers. I have been using them for a few weeks now with no issues!

Sadly this forum has gotten clogged with sooo much useless information. But when you run across information like you provided it really makes one appreciate the hard work and dedication it takes to make a worthwhile contribution!

Thanks again!

 

Gosh, I know this is the wrong place to post this, but I'm desperate. I have some obstacles to overcome, and I've made several mistakes along the way which will make this harder than it should be for me. I really hope someone has the patience to lend a hand here.

I've had my UL30VT-A1 since early January. First batch that came from Amazon. Love it. But I've been careless. I have not done a backup. I do not have an external DVD drive (I can get one, of course, if I have to).

I installed the latest version of the Bluetooth software from the ASUS site today. It wanted me to restart, which I did. Now I'm screwed! I get a screen saying I need to Launch Startup Repair or Start Windows Normally. In either case, the next screen says to insert my Windows installation disc and restart. Then choose language and click next. Then it says to Click "Repair your computer". Status: 0xc000000f Info: The boot selection failed because a required device is inaccessible.

I do NOT want to lose all my data on my C and D drives, so restoring the hidden partition isn't a good choice. I do have an "original" bootable iso, but I believe that would mean I'd be wiping everything out? (Maybe it would allow me to keep the D, but not C. I have data on both). I do have the original CD's that came with the notebook. But even if I had an external drive, I don't know that I could preserve my data by booting those.

So can anyone guide me in the right direction? My goal is to preserve the data on those drives. And programs too, but that can always be recovered again. Can I use the bootable USB iso that I already have, or should I go get an external drive now? And will the CD that came with the notebook be the right one to help me preserve my data on both drives?

I apologize for being so careless. I've gotten away with laziness and no backups, and it finally caught up with me.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

I'd suggest going into safe mode and perform a system restore to the time right before you made the BT driver change. All your personal data and programs should stay as-is this way.

 

David, thanks for answering. No luck. I hit F8 and tried safe mode, but the same bad info displays as I mentioned before. I also tried "Repair your computer". I was kind of optimistic, because it allowed me to look at restore points right before the damage was done. But it told me that it could not complete the system restore, error 0x80070003. I looked at some diagnostic info, and at the end, it said the registry was corrupted. I tried it again, same result. I don't understand why the restore point wouldn't have a good registry backup, but I guess it's in pretty bad shape.

So....I know I've read it here before, but maybe you can help me avoid looking through the thread. How do I remove the hard drive? Does it make sense to put it in an enclosure that has a USB connection, and hook that up to another PC? I suppose it could be completely hosed, but I think it's worth a try. But I'll have to buy an enclosure...that would be minor in the grand scheme of things.

Let me know if you think that's my last resort, before restoring from the hidden partition. If I do have to resort to that, I will have the option to keep my D drive intact, correct?

Thanks so much.

 

i m pretty sure you can still get all your data off the drive. The enclosure method will work. JUst unscrew the panel on the bottom of the laptop and you'll get to the harddrive.

 

Removing the hard drive is simple. There's a hard drive access panel on the back of the laptop. Unscrew the 3 screws, pull the black tab towards the left and upwards. Unscrew the 4 screws holding the drive to the caddy and that's it. If you have an external hard drive enclosure, you can simply put the hard drive in that and connect it to any computer to back up your data.

But to solve your error, you'll need your restore disks and an optical drive to put everything back in order.

 

you can also do a fresh install w/ a usb drive.

 

Thanks, David and Dalamchops. Removing the drive doesn't sound too tough. As for the enclosure, can you direct me to the right type, e.g. what size or brand?

As far as getting up and running again, I still have the original hidden partition (at least I hope I do!), so isn't that a good way to restore the C drive? And I'd just tell it not to do anything with the D?

Thanks again.

 

Sorry, guys, one more about the enclosure. Do I specifically need a Sata enclosure? Or if you can just point me to an appropriate one at Fry's or somewhere, I'll be sure to look for one that's got the same specs.

I'm not sure of all this because I've heard of eSata, Sata, and maybe some older types. I may as well get this right the first time.

 

You'll need a SATA 2.5" USB hard drive enclosure. eSATA uses a different interface and unless your other computer(s) has an eSATA port, it won't work.
Basically, any of these will work for you:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...1053807124 1054107131 1054207132&name=USB 2.0

 

I've had good luck with the Best Buy enclosures under their Rocketfish brand; inexpensive (not cheap), well made, just works. YMMV, of course.

 

Thanks for the examples of what enclosures are appropriate.

I'm assuming you don't like recovering the hidden partition because of all the bloatware? I agree, but I think don't mind getting rid of the extra stuff. Worst case, I could use the bootable USB that I created several months ago. And then install the ASUS drivers from a networked CD drive on another computer, or just get them from the ASUS site. I'll be careful about the bluetooth ones though! I can't imagine it is bad...something very strange must have happened.

 

Thanks, Tallan. Best Buy is near me. I have plenty of choices, and I'll probably pick a cheap one since I can't see me using this enclosure much in the future. Well, let's hope not!

 

Trying to get the hang of my new UL30VT and Power4Gear is driving me nuts. I like keeping my desktop icons hidden, but it insists on showing them. I think it has something to do with the setting in Quiet Office for hiding the icons, but I'm not sure what I can do to fix it. Also, I thought the graphics boost button was supposed to switch between the two graphics modes, but it switches between power modes and that isn't what I want. I want to be on one power mode and then switch to nVIDIA when I need it. I can't find a way to do just that. I ended up uninstalling Power4Gear and I guess that causes the button not to work at all, which is probably expected, but then there's no way to switch graphics modes. If anyone can offer some help I'd appreciate it.

 

I got the regular version and it's too big. Does the MacBook version fit snugly?

 

Anyone noticed that the signal for wifi goes down horribly low when you are downloading/streaming with high speed? I don't know if it's the internal wifi or my dir-655 router (which I never had any problems with other laptops). I have the driver 13.1.1.1 from Intel installed and configured the card to use 802.11N.

 

ya it fits perfectly. I was able to get it from amazon.com for $20. They said it was used but was basically brand new to me. Yeah they have 2 different sizes for the 13" case.. make sure you get the model I posted.

 

Wow, pretty big difference. I'll try and see if I can figure out how to work RMClock. Thanks

 

It would be nice if I knew what I already owned! Over 2 years ago, I upgraded the drive in a new Tivo HD to a 1 TB drive. I used something called a Vantec SATA/IDE to USB 2.0 Adapter (CB-ISATAU2), about $20, and it served the purpose.

I realized I could use the same thing now, i.e. I don't really need an enclosure since I'll be putting the drive right back in the UL30VT soon.

Once I attached it to this old laptop, I can see the C drive as F: and the D drive as H:, and I'll start the copy process to this old laptop tomorrow.

But I thought I'd ask one last question before going through all that. Any possibility of fixing the corrupted registry on that drive? It would be so great to know what was wrong, delete entries, or do something that got it back "in shape" for me to boot.

BTW, removing the drive was so simple, due to to your instructions, David. Thanks again.

 

This is my last one on this, but FYI, this is an interesting post about a corrupted registry on Windows 7.
http://www.sevenforums.com/general-discussion/8228-corrupted-registry.html

A couple of interesting points in there. Windows.old will get created, depending on how I reinstall. That might mean I don't need to copy anything off. I think it will have the windows folder, program files, maybe other stuff, and that's all I would be needing.

Also, it talks about a Regback folder, which I know nothing about. I'm wondering if I can salvage something from it. I just looked, and it is there, but I don't know how to analyze it or make any sense of it.

Enough for this evening!

 

Depending on the corrupted registry, you may or may not be able to fix it in windows. Often times you'll have to boot from the restore disk or even reinstall your OS.

Yup, a Windows.old folder will be created, but for the sake of safety, I would suggest backing up your data on to another computer/hard drive just in case.

A Regback folder is basically a folder that contains registry files from the last time you created an emergency repair disk and choose the option to also back up the registry files to the repair folder. This can be useful since you can easily replace your config folder with your current registries with the Regback folder. However, if your Regback folder also contains corrupted files, then you'll have to reinstall the OS.

I still suggest you to back up your data first, then reinstall your OS with the recovery disk or recovery partition.

 

Hmm, I can only seem to run it in the 1.7ghz mode with 0.975 down to 0.900 (no idea what I was looking at before when it was 1.1...). Even at 0.9 mine doesn't drop below 35 C and I'd like to be able to run it virtually without it ever starting to fan. If I could get it down to under 30 C that would be awesome...

I'd like to be able to lower the voltage for the 1.1 ghz mode as well. It seems it runs at 0.875v, but starting up RMClock it overrides it and puts it back to 1.7Ghz and 0.975v (or whatever you set it to 0.9-0.975). Is it possible to get around it?

 

anyone try install the latest NVIDIA 197.16 driver on UL30VT?

 

Anybody have their wear level battery yet ? I usually have around 3.5-3.7% but after using it about 20% batt level and recharging, on mu surprise wear level goes to 4.7% thats 1% increase because of just 1 incident !

Can I run it until 3% and recharge fully to gain the wear level back to 3% ?

PS Using HWInfo for it

 

my brand new battery had 3.5% wear out of the box. Fluctuated between 2.5-4.3 , but i haven't really had it long enough to make a conclusion

 

This is an "accident"? Sounds like regular using of laptop.. I don't know what accident are you talkin about

 

I took my UL30VT-A1 out from its box yesterday. Very very very nice machine. I don't know why people are writing sometimes it feels cheap, because it's absolutely wrong. The keyboard has absolutely no flex, build quality is impeccable, touchpad is very nice (didn't feel any kind of unresponsiveness from it) touchpad button is cool too (i'ts not very hard to click, doesn't feel cheap at all). But yes, I have to acknowledge the screen could be better (vertical viewing angles), but my former Dell Inspiron E1505 was identical. Sure, it's not my Samsung desktop monitor, but the LED lamp makes it very bright and colors looks very nice, but contrast could be better with a higher vertical viewing angle. Wi-Fi is from Atheros (quite disappointed by that, I hoped it was from Intel), but reception seems good. I just don't find the drivers anywhere on the internet (if someone found the x64 Win7 Atheros AR9285 drivers, let me know !) Overclocking to 1.73 Ghz doesn't require a reboot, which is very nice too.

I haven't installed my SSD yet (Intel X25-V 40 GB MLC SSD). I'm in a rush at school, so it will be for Friday. The only other point I didn't like is the OS fulled up by scrapware. It's unbelievable. You have to format it to exploit the full potential of the machine, sincerely. A clean install is a must. The SSD will solve this problem, I won't use the recovery DVDs provided by Asus, I'll use my own MSDNAA ISO with the key sticked under the laptop.

So that was my first impressions on my new lappy Hope you enjoyed !

 

Thanks, but unfortunately I need it by Thursday and the soonest they can ship it to me is by Friday.

 

Could someone tell me what kind of frame rate you get with Team Fortress 2 on the UL30VT?

 

yes, i mean i was taking a risk since i read batt university said that the lower the batt level u are using more wear level it would get. so im wondering if purposely emptying the batt and full recharging result in good or bad wear level

 

i try the rmclock and i can downclock to abt 600mhz but seems the volt is locked in 0,9v. no turbo and in 5 percent easy turbo in bios.
how to lower the volt?

 

Ok so help me out here... should I buy this or wait for the UL30JT? Realistically wow much of a boost will an i3 give over the SU7300 in games and everyday stuff, and is it worth waiting and paying a bit more?

 

With all due respect sir.. This is bullcrap. Yes, the system really is kinda overflood with crapware, however after removing things you don't need, the machine is extremely fast with very nice boot time. Actually I see no reason for hibernation or sleep mode, because it just boots so fast that I don't really worry about that. The little utility FastBoot help as well.


Actually, after clean install, you can run into lot of troubles to which lot of people refered here. Your shortcuts might not work, your Turbo mode might be gone and you will just have a hard time in general to get everything work as it should.


I strongly appeal to less experienced users, do NOT just do clean install whenever you get it in your hands. I didn't and I am absolutely happy with snappiness of this little beast.

Cheers.

 

I have uninstalled all unnecessary software, but it still needs a very long time to boot up. I don't know why.

Does SmartLogon increase the boot time so much..?

 

Yes, indeed it does due to the fact that your system must turn on the webcam, take your picture and match it with the photos stored on file. It's frustrating to use Smart Logon as it' doesn't always work to your expectations.

 

so i just purchased the laptop finally when it came back into stock in China (for a while i thought they have given up and were replacing it with JT, but I gave up on that and that is confirmed by a new stock of 30v and 80v just coming in)

my ul30v has the big battery, 2 year warranty, 2gb ram (one slot, *phew*), 320gb harddrive, and stupid win7 basic (plus it's in chinese). I haggled the price down to about $860 US dollars including a sleeve (extra) and the laptop bag and mouse that it comes with.

Anyway besides just being happy to finally be able to participate in this forum, I was wondering if anybody has tried the newish drivers (3/24) available on the website and notice any difference. Also, there is this listing from 3/03

VGA patch
Please install UL50 VGA patch before NVIDIA hybrid VGA driver, and don’t install the patch again in WIN7 OS

Not sure why that comes up in the ul30vt section, but anybody tried it and does it do anything useful?

 

Hmm i played with rm clock. Seems that its pretty useless with for this laptop cause the vid cant go lower than 0.85.
Anyways after playing with it, i realized that the button on the top left hand corner isnt working any more.
Wonder whats wrong.Anyone got any problem with that?
SHould i reinstall the driver? Which driver should i reinstall?
Thanks!

 

Sagi, if you would gather it up and take the bull by the horns and do a little study on *how* to do a Clean Install properly, and go about it in such a way that you do *NOT* destroy the Recovery Partition, I think you could have the best of both worlds. It is all the difference in the world to have an unfettered computer at one's disposal by virtue of a brand new, Clean Install, but since you've never done such a thing I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and leave it be.

He is right about not doing Clean Install if you don't know how to do it, or even why you're doing it in the 1st place, so the inexperienced should not apply for that credential.

I will say it the nice way this time, because last time I didn't, and my bad about that. I apologize for my hard and harsh words last time I posted here; but guys and gals (if there are any here), if you could only experience Clean Install done the right way, with the right tools and reasoning behind doing it in the 1st place, most of these little and big troubles I see people posting about over and over here would just vanish, they just go away, never to be seen again. That is reality, take it or leave it... I really don't care.

That's the truth and you always do what you want with truisms, do we not? I mean if you never have tasted strawberry ice cream, you probably have no appreciation for it, correct?

Look, these are only machines, and they will do what machines do if you don't program them properly, correctly, with a bit of foresight and knowledge of the obvious, the simplistic, and the easy to do task of the Clean Install. It is *not* for everyone who owns a computer to do, but by Gosh it has always, always been my experience to Clean Install every single PC I've ever owned, or made (of course), and get things right as rain, and then and only then can the machine be 100% enjoyed. :yes:

What is "right as rain", or any semblance of that whole idea and thought? Well it's quite simply a lack of stupid problems that befuddle even an experienced user, which is what the factory installs tend to do: ie they are done without any care, the machines are treated as wholesale cattle and just Wham, Bam, Thank You Mam (!) the product gets an OS, a semblance of drivers and programs, with lots of junk thrown into the mix, some with deep roots in the workings of the OS and its programming, and there you go! You've now got a retail unit... certainly it works, but how well, and for what ends, and for how long?

That is all debatable of course, but take it from a very experienced user, who can build a custom PC or work station in my sleep and get it 100% right the 1st time, someone who has been there and done that with respect to trying to deal with the factory installations in PCs: there just isn't any going back to the root of such an install and "fixing it" by removing programs and bloatware, crapware, whatever you call it it's the same thing. :confused2:

It's a bit more complex than that, and the easiest way to go about fixing these machines, the UL30Vt series, is to do a Clean Install the right way, and then reap the benefits of your work. You know it's really very simplistic, and easy to do, but like I wrote above, still, there are those to whom doing such a feat is impossible, or impossible to do right anyway. :rolleyes2:

OK, I'm done, I'm sorry for expounding on the simple truth of the Clean Install, but I am a living, breathing example of that, and my UL30Vt computer is just freaking perfect, in every way, without qualification, end of discussion.

I wish you all who are having problems could experience a machine like mine just once, and maybe then it would hit you in the face and you'd get it...but that is debatable too isn't it!?

Have a nice evening, and by all means these are fantastic computers with everything going for them, nothing to hold them back but the user's own issues, whatever they may be.

 

Smart Logon is actually a pretty cool program!

I use it, and it has increased my boot time by a factor of about 25%, but then again I don't have to enter my password (there are those of you who own these without passwords, but I am not one; mine has a password, a complex password, because my UL30Vt is used for both business and pleasure, and has a lot of privileged data on it) so that saves a couple seconds in an of itself.

Smart Logon seems to work very well for me, personally, but YMMV, and it might not work as well for some of you for other reasons, too.

It's one of Asus's programs that I kept active, Smart Logon is, and I'll continue to use it as long as it keeps on working as good as it does right now.

 

That is all pretty much BS info, from HW Info, whatever it's called. I use a program called Everest Ultimate, and it's pretty much the Gold Standard for data on computers, of all types, and it tells me the same things that my battery monitor utility tells me, which is EmBatPower, an obscure sort of program but very, very effective and accurate.

Those two programs tell me the mWh of my battery, its charge, and Everest has a "Wear %" line for battery info, but as of this time it is still 1% on my relatively new battery (about 40 charges and discharges, 100% mostly)...but still, the battery's Design Capacity is 61,600mWh, and it will charge to 60,578mWh, basically 99.5% of a 100% Design-potential charge, so I consider the battery to be in perfect health at this time.

The battery, an Asus UL50-44 battery, is a 4400MAH rated battery by the manufacturer, while mWh are considered to be a more precise 'instant rating' of the battery cells charge for all of your information. Battery Monitor, EmBatPower, and other battery charge/health/utilities will rate in mWh also, as does Everest Ultimate, "the source" as we say in computing.

I also believe in a 100% discharge down to Hibernation at least once every couple of months of use, with heavy use as frequently as once a month is good, as this tends to help the battery charge fully. My Lenovo for work has this recommendation, as does an Apple MacBook Pro computer, a MacBook computer, HP recommends it also, it's pretty much an industry-wide recommended technique with any battery, a Lithium Ion battery that is, in a laptop or notebook, netbook. :wink:

I hope this information helps you understand your battery a bit better, and I'd also suggest a better monitor for your battery than HW Info, just a for instance, you know? Everest Ultimate is the best at all systems monitoring including the battery, but the good battery utilities will help you understand your battery a lot more than HW Info will also.

 

That patch is optional for those having graphiX problems of one sort or another, and I personally see no reason at all to use it. My graphiX are performing perfectly, so I wouldn't want to screw that up, correct?

If I were you with that laptop being in Chinese at this time, I'd consider a nice, little Clean Install and use the Windows image from Microsoft, or any other of many sources I can think of, and the bottom key will work for any such install. Or do you prefer it in Chinese? That was not clear to me...

Good Luck, and hope you enjoy your new computer a bunch!

 

Good for you!

I see you are going to both Clean Install and go SSD, well you will be a happy camper for sure, just do the drivers in logical groups, restart a lot and use a Registry Cleaner/Fixer like Registry Mechanic, or the free Glary Registry Cleaner, often and you'll be fine.

It should come out nice, but 40GB SSD? Wow, that is tiny! I hope you have some external media for things that you need more space for. Good luck, and enjoy your new computer!

 

It seems like you want us to give you some buying advice, but I'm really not into that. Trust me though, this is a substantial computer with plenty of staying power, especially in "games and everyday stuff"...

I say, a bird in the hand...

Buy it, and if you don't love it return it...use Amazon.com...they will take it back in 30 days if you are not a happy camper or hate it, even more so!

Good luck, and hope you get the UL30Vt!