L502X modded bioses download (GPU voltages and more!)

Just a warning. The newest WHQL Nvidia driver is pretty bad on my laptop with Win7/540m. Made League of Legends FPS lag pretty hard with my GPU core clock underclocking. Downgraded and fixed.

 

@shibbyiu
try what novatornado said, I'm also not using the latest driver version

using 314.22 here without major problems ^^

 

I was using 320 drivers all summer and i read they overvolt cards or something that breaks them. I tried using the newest drivers and was a bit better. Now i'm using 314.22 but didn't test yet. Lol only requires minor underclock to never crash but wow is being very tricky.

Max Gpu temp is 69/70 degrees which is normal. I disabled some 3d vision and turned off turboboost. No crash yet.

I have an odd feeling that the problem occurs long before i am playing the game. WoW sometimes loads in 10 seconds and I have yet to experience a crash. Sometimes the game loads in 30seconds and i always have a crash.

 

well, I found that my GPU deteriorate itself after some months, I mean I have to recude a few mhz (5 or 10) the OC to keep it stable after months of ussage.

mmm, that is weird, did you also updated the intel drivers and checked the power plan /energy options?

 

Hi,

Seen this forum and decided to join this website I got linked from another website to this one, to solve my freezing issues. I have a Dell XPS L502x with a 540m card. I believe like many other people have reported, it has some sort of hardware fault, and causes freezing issues. Usually what happens is even if i underclock using msi afterburner, it will freeze in-game with a 1 second sound loop and have to power off and on as it is unresponsive. I was told to try the undervolt bios to try and fix problem. What one would you recommened that got best success to solve this problem? I am also considering taking apart laptop and cleaning fan and repasting heat sink. I am also currently out of warranty

 

@Baz123

Hi Baz, and welcome to this forum

just curiosity, what was the website wich linked you here? ^^

as for your request, this is the most complete BIOS for your L502X and 540m card

http://l502x.lag.re/L502X_A12_540m_83_85_Unlocked_Menus_v5.rar

it includes undervolt and some enchancements/unlocks

if you clean the dust from the system, clean fans and heatsinks, you repaste and remove the dust filters it should improbe temperatures and stability

using that bios will also help to reduce temps and keep the system better.

however, you may need to underclock a little if that isnt enough.

in many cases the underclock fixes the issue, but in some others it just improve it a little.

 

It was this website here, Nvidia Optimus Freezing Issue. One of the people commenting on the website linked this forum. Its an interesting website, the owner of the website is experiencing hardware problems with the nvidia card and he took dell to court and won. Thanks for your reply and help. Keep up good work

 

ahh it keeps crashing, on 470/700 downclock. gpu max temp is 71degrees, most of the time 69. this is ok right? i think the cpu gets too hot, the hard disk area is much warmer than everywhere else. im using 0.85 downvolt

 

Stability comes down to the gpu/ cpu contact but the heat and temps of the un-monitorable voltage regulators.

These voltage regulators get ungodly hot! Think of some insanely hot, then double that temperature!

That's how hot the voltage regulators run on the board every single day we are running our computers/ laptops etc... We are talking about a chip which was supposedly designed to run at the pinnacle limit of the temperature at which the solder melts.

That's the most insane engineering though process ever! Engineers and companies for graphic cards, motherboards, and laptops cut corners to save money.

They are like sure the voltage regulators are hitting 100C+ every single day 24/7 all the time hitting 100C, 120C, 150C.... These things will approach the pinnacle limit of when it's about to un-solder it self from the board from it's own heat. We are talking about between 300F minimum to upwards of 800F... There's enough heat coming from these chips, you could cook THANKSGIVING DINNER WITH!

So what do we do? Cool the darn things! Heat sinks... and Copper when possible always!

I even suggest everyone actually put something over the fan inlet, and force the fan to full speed. That way the fan is actually forced to suck the heat from within the casing which will cool the voltage regulators.

I finally figured out the hard way why about the air intake inlet. ASUS decided to put no air intake inlet, and I was like from an engineering aspect, why? We want cool air/ hot air exchange like a Air Conditioner.

What I didn't know is these voltage regulators are the ROOT CAUSE of all instability.

When your gpu/ cpu are getting hot in the 80C range, BELIEVE ME your voltage regulator temps are not twice as hot but could be in the neighborhood of 3 to 5 TIMES HOTTER! That applies to all temps, say your sitting at 65C, your gpu voltage regulator could be in the 180-250C range under load. Throw an Over-Volt on the gpu/ cpu your look at VOLTAGE REGULATOR temps of upwards around 300C+.

So block the air intake with something, and force the fan to 100% to suck the heat off the board and suck the Voltage Regulator heat out of the case to keep them in the general 100C range.

By Adding heatsinks big or small on all potential hot spots on the board, you can rest assured your going to be insanely stable! Keeping the voltage regulators in the 80C range is phenomenal!

We can pump tons of volts to the cpu/ gpu and overclock all day as long as we keep the voltage regulator temps in check.

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@ capitankasar

Thanks bro! About the heats sinks and what to use. Just use "THERMAL INTERFACE ADHESIVE MATERIAL". It's like double sided tape but it's extremely thermally conductive. What you will find though is, even the high quality 3m double sided tape. The thinnest stuff u can find performs extremely well in the thermal department. I think the heatsinks which may work the best I found are these from the SWIFTECH MC21 because they are a great profile for all the voltage regulators on laptops. Being dimensions of 21mm long x 6mm wide x 10mm high... Not so sure if it's perfect but the other heatsink i stated works well. You may need both, and if the MC21 is too tall... Grind it down until it'll work... with sand paper, or concrete sidewalk.



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On another note about this other system I'm working on right now to sell since I'm starting my business. It's going to be hopefully international and I'm looking to be competing with all the top computer companies.

Anyway it's an ASUS A8R-MX/SI and originally it had a standard asus only bios, none oem bios and was working nicely.

For some reason I decided and though it needed a bios update, so I flash the ASUS Vintage AH1 bios which uses the same board and allows overclocking.

Only issue is on that bios I get BSOD when multi tasking and it's a "Clock Interrupt On Secondary Processor In Allocated Time" or some such junk.

Ran it through memtest, and cpu stress and it's completely stable.

So I can't find that original none oem bios... and I can't fix this BSOD in windows 7 issue. It's in the BIOS, it's a BIOS issue.

So, I think I may wanna create a new bios or at least try to work out the issues by modding the bios I have.

What are your thoughts? Maybe you could take a look at this bios file .rom and tell me some things about it I wouldn't know.

I appreciate it man! Thanks!

Download Link ---> 0303

 

Hey Capitan, I need a minute of your advice (and not more than that). Sorry to post in this thread but most people don't bother looking at other threads anymore (and I'm also quite desperate).

My laptop fell from the table, now it won't power on (with battery and without).
Blue light on charger plug goes out when plugged to the motherboard. (Both DC jack and charger are fine. Blue light goes out when DC Jack is connected to the motherboard.)

Motherboard is shorting the charger. Laptop's out of warranty, so before I buy a replacement motherboard, I'm asking for any advice or experience you can share about successful motherboard repairs (reflow, reball?). I've read forum threads about computer technicians successfully fixing a motherboard by literally "baking" it in the oven. I'm still searching for computer repair shops but it seems that most of them only know how to replace motherboards and not repair them.

 

@chris89

thanks for the info

getting some of those miniheatsink can be extremly good for overclocking and stability.
if you own a l502x, did you had any issues to close again the laptop case after insert the heatsinks?
or everything fit perfectly insider after the mod?

well, relating to the bios thing, I am a little away from bios business now, also the bios is probably different from the dell ones I modded, also even it would be a dell bios, I dont know what module I would need to swap in order to prevent your BSODs



@PocketSmiley

oh, well, I check this forums fery little, just when some notification mail arrives asking me some activity in the topics I follow ^^

if the laptop is out of warranty, first thing you should do is take appart the whole laptop.

and check carefully the motherboard for some scratches, broken traces and any other stuff, and try to power if from outside the case.

reflow and reball may work, but some tools are needed for that, and you also dont know where is the source of the issue, my advice is that, look carefully the motherboard with your eyes and maybe some magnifiers and look for some damage on it.

try also unplugging some stuff like screen , keyboard, soem ram modules, maybe the broken thing is not at the motherboard itself, but it is on another module, anyway since the motherboard is almost the whole thing, the damage will be probably there.

 

Hello CAPTAIN.

I wanted to ask, I have 525GT L502x, I want to install your A11 .85v Undervolt BIOS but I wanted to ask questions:

- Will using this Mod slow down my CPU? Because I use lot of CPU for rendering in Adobe and Sony Vegas, so will this slow down my Render speed?

-Also, what are the long term effects of using this undervolted mod as opposed to my default A11.

I usually hit 85-90 degrees C when using heavy loads, but I think Sandybridge can handle these temperatures well so heat doesn't scare me.

 

@zideeq

nope, it will not slowdown the CPU

long tems effets are probably longer system life and stability due reduced temperatures and voltages.

 

I think my system is getting worse and worse. Once i had to underclock to 650, now i'm all the way down to 450 to have no crashes.

League of legends crashed for the first time on 540/700 so now i'm playing on 450/700,

wow has not crashed at all yet on 450/700, but 472/700 it will randomly crash. 672/900 then say byebye on the character login screen.

SFIVAE i managed to get this to run again by playing on 450/700 and turning off all AA, bit odd as I thought AA was cpu based. When the laptop was new I could play this game every setting on High and AA all the way up. Now if i try to play on any clock above 450 the laptop crash immediatly.

Starcraft 2 doesn''t seem to care about gpu dying and will run fine on 540/700 clock maybe higher i don't know, that game has never crashed.

I notice no performance loss in league of legends/sc2 whatever the gpu is set too. WOW is only minor loss, like 10fps for a few seconds when the game is at its busiest. SFIVAE is the most depressing one, I thought the game was mostly cpu based, game still looks good with no AA. but even 2xaa will drop fps to 47. I used to be able to play at like MSAAx16cq or something crazy.

 

Eh, AA should also be mostly the GPU since isn't it basically quadrupling the size or more and then shrinking it down? The GPU would have to render it at the large size first before its scaled down, probably by the GPU as well.

 

@capitankasar

Thank you, one more thing: Can I install any BIOS? I wanted to use your A06 version but I am on A12.

 

@zideeq

yeah, you can, Dell by default doesnt let you downgrade bios I think, but you still can do it if you with the correct flashing parameters.

just give a look to the bat files parameters from my custom bios, you can open it with notepad

then edit or create a new script to flash your A06 file

anyway, why do you want to install an older bios?

many people are good with the a12 bios or the a11 one (because they said dell broken many things in a12, for example e-gpu support)

 

Hmm... Are you sure they don't allow it? I don't remember correctly, but I think that installed successfully A06 on A11 before sending to repair in Dell...

 

well, I dont remember either, thats I didnt gave a fully confirmation on the previous post ^^

however, I'm sure it didnt allowed flash the same version of the bios over the current bios by default. maybe it also gave issues to rollback to previus versions, idk, anyway that stuff can be easly bypassed by setting special flashing parameters like the one I use in my batch files at the modded bios downloads you can find at this place.

 

I just registered to thank you capitankasar, you did an awesome job with the modded BIOS's. I had trouble with my gt540m driver crashing quite repeatedly while playing games and there was no solution to be found. The undervolted A12 BIOS solved this problem

Thank you wholeheartedly, rock on!

 

@Perkz

Glad you liked it ^^

 

Uch... After upgrading to Windows 8.1 and rebooting I got error that said there is problem with disk. Needed to reflash BIOS from recovery cd and flash modded again. Anybody in UEFI had similar problem?

 

I'm from Brazil and find these really small heatsinks is a problem. I do find those Swiftech MOSFET Aluminum Heatsinks mentioned here on Ebay but they are really expensive and the shipping cost is also too high. Any other tips? Maybe for a less expensive heatsink that is easy to import?

I have been reading this thread for a long time now. Love it. I have a L502x with the gt540m, the undervolt bios really helped with the hang problem, also did the repaste with the Artic Cooling MX-4. I quit overclock my card because it is really unstable here, maybe the VREGS are the problem. Also, hot country so...

Thanks for all the brilliant thread guys.

 

Hi Capitankasar,

I just registered to this forum to give you this massive (!!!) thanks for all your work on the L502X bios undervoltage mod because now since more than a year I have been able to play some games the normal way without crashing of my GT540m! Really great that there is someone who takes the time to improve the performance, since Dell delivered a poor laptop/gt540m configuration. Many many thanks great job

Mik

p.s. I have used the following mod:

 

@mikvental

thanks a lot for your comments, I love to see people happy using something I made

I see you are using the v5 undervolted version for the 540m wich is the most complete one and the best choice for your system.

you can give a try to the new bios options such as fast strings, wich give a little more performance to CPU and integrated graphics

 

So, I really hit a instability wall here. As I said, the undervolt bios helped for some time but now the drive crashes and the OS hangs are getting more and more frequently. I can't play Dead Space 3, it hangs as soon as the game start. I'm playing DmC: Devil May Cry and hit a stage where it hangs as soon as I start to slash some monsters... I'm just sad...

Maybe the high voltage ones would help? Yeah, I know, the temp problem and all... With the undervoltage one I'm getting 72ºC... Will give the high voltage a shot.

 

@thenriques45

the drive hangs?, what do you mean?
the OS crash without using the dedicated GPU?

try ensure the OS is not using the dedicated GPU for 2d plain software like desktop stuff or browsers.

try also run software to check the memory memtest86+ can be fine

dead space games are very OC sensitive games, I had to completly disable the OC from my 525m and left it on stock levels, else, it crashed after some minutes, that OC is ok for all other games, but not for dead space ones,

mmm, the 0.83v/0.85v is usually the best for most 540m gpus, but yeah, you can try different voltage settings to see if there is any improvement.

 

Yeah, OC really make things unstable here. I set the card to the default clocks and could play a little more DmC before the game crashes again, this time did'nt had to reboot. I'll switch back to your 0.83/0.85v since the high voltage one didn't helped. Will try Dead Space 3 again later.

How can I ensure the OS is not using my GPU to 2d softwares? Also, sorry my bad written english...

 

@thenriques45

my english is also not perfect, so dont worry

you can ensure your dedicated GPU is not used by doing following:

1 - go to nvidia control panel
2 - on top menu items (something like: file, edit, desktop, 3d config and help) go to "desktop" menu, and check the show gpu activity icon on the notification area
3 - once the icon is being showed, put the mouse over it, it will tell u if there are any apps using the dedicated gpu, and if there are some, it will ask wich ones
4 - if there are some apps using the gpu and you dont want them to use them (I only leave the dedicated gpu for intensive graphic games or emulators), go to 3d config, select the app executable you want.
5 - set it to integrated graphics only
6 - restart your app
7 - ensure there are no apps using your gpu on the nvidia gpu activity icon

 

Capitankasar, thanks for the info.

No app is using my GPU. I'm back to the undervolt bios. I'll try DmC again with no OC and see what happens. Thanks for everything dude, awesome job.

 

Hey!

I got a l502x with a gt 540m and im experiencing HUGE problems with it (freezes, driver crashes --> nvidia). I'm using the 0,83/0,85 bios mod and the latest nvidia driver + a notebook cooler... Any tips i can use?


THANKS

 

Is there a chance that you'd get a bios mod for my mate that has an acer aspire 5742g Intel® Core™ i3-380M Processor (3M Cache, 2.53 GHz) with 520m? He suffers from frame drops, even after I cleaned his laptop and replaced the thermal paste.

 

@all

reuploaded some of the recovery tutorial images since the files were down.

@edeka3

if you are already using the undervolted bios there isnt a lot you can do, try repaste, remove the dust filter from the laptop, and if that still doesnt work, underclock your gpu.


@cremvursti

put a link to your desired bios version to be modded.

however that GPU is not the 540m and probably the crashes will not be fixed just with lower voltages, try checking power plans, and disable any kind of power safe mode from both bios, and OS options, including nvidia control panel and windows power plan.

 

@capitankasar about recovery... I think it would be good to public also image with unlocked version of BIOS as installed from repair.bat. It can be useful for people using UEFI (like me) - it's irritating that you need to flash it two times Actually tested modified ISO with A12 (probably 0,8/0,87 version, but not sure) and it works properly, so why always go back to stock A06 version?

 

@agalin

well, the problem with that is that people uses many versions of unlocked and stock bioses, for that reason I decided to include only a old stock but functional bios at the recovery CDrom ^^

after that the machine should have the basic functionality and the user would be able to flash the desired version ^^

else I would have to make several recovery cdroms with many bioses, and the recovery cdrom is a much bigger size file than the modded bios packages (wich also include original bios to let the user revert to the original version)

well, the recovery is just that, a recovery

it is there for then things go bad and you need it as a last resource, so flash twice will not hurt anyone

 

I think that just one version with AXX with unlocked menus and stock voltage would be enough. The problem is in UEFI - to boot in this mode you need GPT drive and in BIOS Legacy mode you can't boot from this drive So you need another media with Windows able to boot in BIOS Legacy to flash version with UEFI enabled.
Oh! And is there any method to flash BIOS from other OS than Windows? I saw something for Linux, but it doesn't look as easy and secure method. Also found something like Dell BIOSdisk- anybody tried this method for L502x?

 

Model : Toshiba L745 PSK12L
Bios : INSYDE
Bios version : 2.30
Link : Services & Support | Drivers Download | BIOS version 2.30 upgrade for Satellite L740/L745 (For PSK10*, PSK12*, PSK14*, PSK0Y*, PSK0Z*) | Toshiba Leadi

Please help me to overvolt to 0.98v from 0.93v ( stock max voltage for 3d probably )
Lowest stock voltage is 0.83v (2d probably ) , as seen throught gpu .
If the voltages are wrong feel free to correct me .I am unsure too , I checked the voltage through GPU-Z ( max and min VDDC)

It has a downclocked gt 525m with stock clock 475/050/900

Also , please unlock the advanced options such as ram overclocking .
SLIC is not needed .

Any help with modding the bios is greatly appreciated

 

@agalin

mmm, maybe you can try inserting a usb stick with your desired bios version while booting the recovery disk, it may recognize it and you can flash it from there.

didnt tried, but it may detect aditional storage drivers with aditional letters, for example in cmd, try doing stuff like

a:
b:
c:
.... etc

and when one drive switch correctly, try the dir command to check it is your usb stick


@Dxdino

checked your bios, cant find similar hex strings to unlock menus like I did on xps 15 and xps 17 models.

however I may be able to mod your voltage settings.

found 3 GPU bioses inside

however I cant manage to find the voltage tables on one of them.

so I will ask you two questions:

what is your OS? 32 or 64 bits ? (to include the proper flasher)

what is your Video bios version? (you can use check it with nvidia inspector from the first post.)

I found some of them:

70.18.7F.00.14 (have some trouble finding the voltage tables with this one)
70.08.44.00.85 (can be modded)
70.08.54.00.07 (can be modded)

waiting for your input

 

@capitankasar yes, it will work from usb2/esata port (WinXP doesn't support 3.0). Did it some time ago. Don't remember if you need to manually mount it from diskpart.
But it's possible only in "real recovery" - when you have drive mounted in notebook. But when you connect it via esata... You don't have other 2.0 connector (Of course you can't run PC recovery from BIOS.CAP on eSata port. It's just for restoring partially working BIOS.)

And any idea about flashing from other OS?

 

yeah, you need to have the disk drive mounted into the laptop, I tried connecting the disk drive from esata since I have a second hdd caddy in the place the disk drive were, so it is annoying to remove the second hdd and put in the old drive to get the recovery working. but connecting the drive via esata port doesnt work.

putting a usb stick with the BIOS.cap file in the esata/usb 2.0 port works for booting the BIOS.cap file as a backup temporal bios wich allow to boot the BARTPE winxp image, however I was unable to get the usb boot working from the BIOS.cap bios boot mode, so even using the usb stick, you will still need to use the cdrom to boot the bartpe, thats why I decided to make the whole process from the cdrom.

it save the need of using several media and stuff and it is fully functional.

mmm, as far I know, I didnt tested any other flash methds different than windows.

not sure if timewalker were able to flash some stuff from the uefi shell (the bad thing is that you need a modded bios with the uefi option enabled, and the BIOS.cap method is only able to boot the bios with the default settings)

also I'm not sure if there are any avalible DOS flashers for uefi. (well, not sure if prema used some of them for his bios mods, however I already had the cdrom recovery method working when I saw it)

well, anyway, I think the current cdrom recovery method works fine

well, if you want to make a iso file wich flash a specific bios version do following:

* download my recovery cdrom from the first post
* download your desired modded bios version
* download any software to edit iso files, (for example ultraiso)
* replace the bios1.wph file from the iso file with the one from your desired modded version.
* burn the modded iso file.
* have fun

 

As I wrote before: made modded recovery iso some time ago, tested booting from USB (when hadn't power button ribbon), tested recovery from esata. So only new info from first part is about impossibility of booting from USB in recovery BIOS mode. Thanks anyway

In second part... So sad that nobody flashed it from Linux environment It's easier to make USB bootable Linux than Windows to flash BIOS - and if possible, wouldn't require cdrom, only pendrive.

 

well, theorically is posible also to boot windows xp from a usb stick, however, the BIOS.cap bios file, when it boot, some features are "broken", for that reason I was unable to boot anything from usb, you can try by yourself, but you will have probably the same results.

well, yeah a linux flashing environment would be faster and smaller to upload it, well, however 50-60 mb download for a windows live cd is acceptable (unzipped it get bigger, but ok ^^)

I tried many ways trying to use only the usb stick to get the recovery working.

however I was only able to get the first step of the recovery working (boot the bios from BIOS.cap instead from the system itself).

after the bios capsule booted, it didnt booted anything from usb, even using aditional usb sticks on other ports.

didnt tried other combinations like the usb with CAP file + LAN boot with the SO with ,the flasher and the bios to be flashed on the damaged system.

but well, I think the CDrom is at least for now the best standalone recovery way

however keep in mind the cdrom recovery based on the BIOS.cap file cant restore all the brick scenarios.

if a system have damaged bootblock or ME regions, it will be unable to boot with the cdrom and will need hardware flashing (like I did on my machine)

 

My vbios is 70.08.54.00.07 as shown by gpu-z

My windows version is Windows 7 64 bit

THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP
I had so much trouble trying to overcoat with hex editing ..

Sent from my MT11i using Tapatalk

 

@Dxdino

here you have it:

Model : Toshiba L745 PSK12L
Bios : INSYDE
Bios version : 2.30
GPU mod
2D voltage: 0.83v (stock)
3D voltage: modded to 0.98v from 0.90v
warning, this bios is only for this laptop model,
l502x users or any other laptop user wich is not the L745 PSK12L, DONT proceed to flash this

Toshiba L745 PSK12L 0.98v mod

try flash it and let me know if the 3d voltage got changed from 0.90v to 0.98v

to flash the bios, just run FLASHBIOS.BAT

ask "y" when it ask for it, and then proceed normally with the flashing proccess

use nvdia inspector or hwmonitor to check it

you can run games on windowed mode, so you can play at the same time you see the voltage.

waiting for the mod working status confirmation ^^

 

Sorry I can only try it tmr so you may have to wait

Sent from my MT11i using Tapatalk

 

Sorry I can only try it tmr so you may have to wait

Sent from my MT11i using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]



Sent from my MT11i using Tapatalk

 

Guys, wierd thing here. After I tryed the overvoltage bios and get back to the undervolted I'm unable to measure the GPU temp with Z-GPU and SpeedFan. They just won't show the GPU temp... Actually, Z-GPU just hang when it try to get the GPU temp and SpeedFan just show 0ºC.

I can confirm that the GPU voltage could be acquired with the undervoltage bios and with the overvoltage bios that I flashed before. When I got back to the undervoltage it could no be detected anymore. The GPu is working flawless otherwise, I can play games normally and by the heat getting out from inside the notebook I don't think it is overheating. I just can't measure it anymore...

 

@thenriques45

try reset bios setup to defaults and save, and stay away from the unlockd temperature menus (dont even enter on it) it cause some troubles sometimes with monitoring software after you explore it.

else try to reflash the bios or reinstall the software.

 

Thanks Capitankasar, had to reflash the ummodded and the modded BIOS all over again, but everything is working now.

EDIT: Ops, actually I'm wrong. Uninstalled all sotware, reflashed the original bios and the modded one back (your undervolt version), reinstalled the GPU-Z software and nothing, It can't detect the GPU temperature. The only thing that I did was enable fast string but, even with it disable, I can't detect the temperature...

EDIT2: Ok, tryed with another software (CPUID) and it is detecting the GPU temp apparently... Will do some test to confirm. The strange thing is, PGU-Z was always able to detect... Well, I'll play something and see if this new software is really detecting the temp.

EDIT3: So I played something for some short time, CPUID actually measure the GPU temp and, after that, even GPU-Z started to work again... But, when I close both app's and try to use then again, CPUID still works just fine but GPU-Z can't show the GPU temperature again. Well, maybe it's something with the app then, I'll keep using the CPUID.

 

Ok, another question (yeah, I know, I'm a person with many doubts hehe). Someone here at the forum give the advice to set the cooler to work at full speed. Is that really necessary? How to do it?