So you mean that the SSD i use is performe less, compared to the others?
What do you recommend?
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Just one thing more. Is it true that SSD loses performance if you re formate them? -
I've been using an 80 GB Intel X25-M G2 for the better part of a year now. It's not as big as I'd like but putting it into my XPS 1530 was like suddenly being given a completely different laptop. It was unbelievably quicker at booting, programs open and close almost in an instant, and I didn't have any system lag when doing random things inside of Windows.
When I got an XPS 1647, I installed my SSD in that one as well. I didn't notice as much of a difference in performance over the mechanical hard drive that came with my 1647 as I did with my 1530, but it still did make a big difference.
I have not heard the part about losing performance when you format. I think you may be referring to the way that a SSD can lose performance as it runs out of free or blank space. This is true of mechanical hard drives as well although that is more a function of the OS than of the hard drive itself.
If you are thinking of getting a SSD, go with one of the newer drives based on an Intel or Sandforce controller. You can always get one of the older Intel drives such as the one I have, but the other "2nd generation" drives weren't very good unless they had an Intel controller. As far as an operating system, you will want Windows 7 as it has native support for SSD'. The last few Linux kernels also have good SSD support.
Anandtech.com and Tomshardware.com have some good reviews and information about SSD's if you are looking for more. -
Thank your for the intel!
But as many of them are writing, isnt it better to wait a few months like after new year for the new generations?
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check this llink
What is Virtual Memory? -
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Flash based SSD's store information essentially by changing the voltage in a complex set of transistors where one voltage level is a 0 and another is a 1. It's a bit more complicated than that, but for this explanation it is close enough to suffice.
Flash memory is comprised of a basic storage component called a cell. A group of cells is then combined to make a "page" of cells which holds 4 kilobytes(kb) of information. 128 pages are then put together to make a "block" which comprises 512 kb. Because of how flash memory works, this 512 kb block of information is the smallest amount of data that can be written. Additionally, information can only be reliably written to a block that is already blank.
When you delete a file in Windows, to save time, Windows designates the sectors of the hard drive that contained the deleted file as "not in use" rather than erase them. Because of how a mechanical hard drive works, this is more efficient and much quicker. Then the hard drive will simply write over the top of those sectors later on when they are needed to store something else. This is why you can delete something on a hard drive but still retrieve it later so long as it has not be "reused."
Because of how flash memory works, information can only be written to an empty block. When you first purchase an SSD, all of the blocks are empty. So the SSD runs normally. But as time passes, more and more information is written to the SSD and more and more blocks are filled with information. Eventually there are no more empty blocks and this is where you run into your performance issue.
Because an entire 512 kb block of flash memory must be written at once and only empty blocks can be written to, when you run out of empty blocks, the SSD must read the information from an "occupied" block and combine it with the information that your operating system wants to write to that block. However, since it must be empty, the SSD must erase the block before rewriting the information to it. This takes much longer from the perspective of a computer than simply writing over the top of the information as a mechanical hard drive can.
Most SSD's are intelligent enough to optimize how information stored so that the largest number of empty blocks are available. But as fewer and fewer empty blocks are available, the SSD must spend more time reading information from a partially full block, combining it with more information, erasing the entire block, and then writing the new set of information back into the block.
This is why most SSD's will slow down significantly as they are filled with data. The performance loss starts when the SSD is about half full and becomes easily noticeable once the SSD is 75% or more full.
Hopefully that explained things without being too technical. -
heads up to mobility 4670 owners-
just updated my gfx drivers to 8.782.0.0 from 8.762 so u might wanna check it out.at least i think its an update. -
Thank your Firesyde!
Im currently running with samsung pm800 128gb which seems to be a bit of a ripoff compared to the other ssd.
in other words my purchase of this ssd was totally useless?
do you recommend a mechanical or a new ssd? im planning on waiting for after new year for hopefully new generations -
I curious as to why you think you've wasted your money? Is the drive not performing well? -
Well actually i dont think its performing bad, but when i read reviews about the other ssd mine seems to be slow compared, if your know what i mean. but i might just buy a new one after new year or so, also i have this problem performingwise with the rams, mine runs at 1333, but my procoessor only supports up to 1066, is this a big of a deal?
Is there some tests you can do to see how good or bad your ssd performing?
thank you -
hey guys.....my laptop got delivered 2 days ago....the specs are :-
Dell studio 1647
i5 - 460 m TB upto 2.8 GHz
Full HD edge to edge screen
1 GB GPU ati 565v
DVD combo slot load
9 cell Battery with 90 watt adaptor
since i'm new to this laptop area... i hav a few questions ......where do i start in setting up my laptop.......i mean bios, OS, Backing up OS since i havent got a backup disc, Softwares to b installed, r there heating problems, Activating turbo boost is it required and why is it written 1645 on the backside of my laptop??????????? -
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@lammy: deny it, ask for another replacement or full refund. also, don't forget to remind them that dell warranty is clearly stated that "same or better specs"...and u are right, offering a studio 14 to replace 1645 is a flap in the face. For now, i would recommend calling the number yphil gave out and if it does not work, keep calling back and talk to different reps. eventually, someone would be able to help you out and dont forget to keep on mentioning "same or better" warranty policy and they must stick to it or give you a full refund.
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I have a Studio XPS 1647 with an i5 m540 and the 1 GB HD 5730. My laptop is about one month old and shipped with a 90 watt adapter. I was having some stuttering issues that I thought were power related but on a hunch, I grabbed the latest drivers right off of AMD's website instead of using the drivers from Dell's website and the issue cleared right up.
I've heard that you need a 130 watt adapter for full power, but from my experience with the XPS 1647 that I have, my 90 watt adapter does just fine. Additionally, I remember reading that even if you did get a 130 watt adapter to deal with the throttling issue, the laptop would still not use more that 90 watts. -
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You'll need it if you have a configuration similar to mine, and if you have a quad core (1645).
If you do still want the 130W adapter then you can ask for one on the basis that your 90W is overheating. But if it's not then you really don't need one, so don't even bother calling! -
hi gyz im selling my current lappy and getting a new one coz i got some cash coming in. any way i cant pick between these so pls help me
dell xps 16--- i7 at 1.6-turbo to 2.8 ghz, ati 5730 1gb
asus g72----- core2duo at 2.53 ghz, gtx 260m
gateway p78---- core2duo at 2.26 ghz, gts 9800m
price comparison
dell--- highest price
gateway----2nd
asus---cheapest
i cant decide from the above.i know most will say go for the one with the best gffx card but u also need to know that games like just cause 2 and final fantasy 14 need really good processors too. so pls help me pick one for the best gamiing experience -
Thanks! -
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Of course now someone is going to tell me that I did it wrong and that you only have to take out one screw and the drive just pops right out. -
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yo gyz,check this
AMD GPU Clock Tool v0.9.26.0 For HD 5870 download from Guru3D.com
its an OC tool 4 hd 5870 but i tried it and it works for my 4670. i think it works better than rivatuner for me.my clocks are 850 for core and 950 for memory. ( is that same as saying 850/950? never understood what that meant). just letting u guys know. dont know if it will work for 5730 though.
oh and could someone give me a better core-memory clock combination for better performance? -
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guess im behind than most of u lol
. thx
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Hey guys, I was watching a youtube video just now and I got this error message -
Display driver stopped responding and has recovered
Display driver AMD driver stopped responding and has successfully recovered.
The video wasn't showing properly and then the entire window went black and then back to normal with the error message showing from the lower right hand corner. The sound also made a loud noise as the screen seem to reset.
I get a lot of problems when watching rented blu rays, and I've usually thought it was just a faulty disk, even though it happens far too frequently. Is there some underlying problem with my GPU?
Any help would be appreciated (+rep). I have the ATi 4670 1647 shown in my signature.
Cheers. -
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Ahoy. Quick question, since i'm looking at getting a 1647 soon.
In Australia we can still get the RGBLED screen, but i'm kind of steering away from it just due to the throttling issue. The setup i'm looking at is a i7 620m, with the 5730 and the 640GB HD. I have a pretty solid desktop and probably won't game too much on the this but i'd rather not risk it and it sounds like with this setup I may be pushing it a bit to get the RGBLED screen. Thoughts?
And secondly, our alternative is this screen:
15.6" Edge to Edge Full High Definition(1080p) Display with TrueLife-Obsidian Black
It doesn't say WLED, so it's probably different to the one US customers get as an alternative. Has anyone got any experience with this and can tell me if it's still a reasonable screen? Is it noticeably worse than the RGBLED?
Ta
-Andy -
You are getting the ATI MR 5730, which uses less power than the 4670 and runs cooler. You're getting the i7-620 Dual Core, which uses less power than the i7 quads and runs cooler. So I feel like if you can still get that processor and that graphics card with the RGBLED, you'd have your self a pretty sweet system. Now, I'm assuming you've never seen the RGBLED, but I can assure you that it is a beautiful screen with proper calibration (there's a thread on here). By far best screen I've used. Now if you've never seen it, you're not really going to miss out on anything (because you've never seen, you don't know what you're missing). I've never seen a WLED but I've only heard good things about it. I think it's the same one that is sold in the US, though I'm not sure. You can't go wrong with either screen, but the RGBLED is nice... (Let's just say I'd never accept a WLED after this one
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Hmm okay, i'll consider it.
One other thing, 6-cell or 9-cell? Roughly what's the battery life like with each? I've heard the 9-cell makes it a little uncomfortable to actually use on your lap due to it jutting out.
-Andy -
Ah yeah you probly wouldnt want to use SXPS16 on ur lap, the only air intake is on the bottom, ur pants would catch fire (assuming ur wearing pants that is, if not then the situation may be worse). You could use it on ur lap on a board of some kind.
The 9 cell adds a nice tilt forward to the system that aids ergonomics and allows air to flow in easier underneath. -
I've bought XPS 1645 about a month ago, with configuration:
- i7-720
- Ati 5730
- 500GB HDD, 4GB memory, FHD screen.
It's great but there are two problems - noise and temperatures. Of course I understand that under load it has to get worm and - what's normal - noisy because of the heat. But I was hoping that during normal work in Windows (Office, Internet) it will be quieter and cooler. Main problem is when the vent starts and stops every few minutes, sometimes even seconds. It can be really annoying.
I've read some reviews and forums about this notebook and as I can see there are few things that I could try to make it better:
1. Change the thermal past. I would have already done this but I'm not sure which past I shoul buy? There are few that have been reccomended but when I checked reviews they don't seem to be the best. For example:
ARCTIC SILVER 5,
ARCTIC COOLING MX-3,
ARCTIC COOLING MX-2
Which one (from these or others) would be the best to buy for this laptop?
2. Cooling pad - I wasn't thinking about buying one, but after reading some reviews I decided to give it a try. Again, there are few that seem to be good:
Zalman ZM-NC2000 (or 1500 - I understand that it is smaller?),
Zalman ZM-NC1500W (as the quietest),
Vizo mini Ninja II
There are two things that are important to me: first - I would want it to be as quiet as possible (I really don't like noise in computers) and second - I have 9-cell battery which is high, so using it together with high cooling pad would probably be uncomfortable. I would like pad to be either very flat (or with adjustable legs) of to has the shape that would allow battery to go inside it instead of standing on it (Vizo mini Ninja would probably allow that). Which would be a good choice of cooling pad for this notebook?
3. Third thing is bios setup. I understand that vents are going faster when the temperatures are high. However that does not explain the noise right after computer starts (and when it's cool) or starting and stoping every few seconds. I was thinking that maybe flashing bios would help with these problems. Is there any update available that changes the thermal setting of the computer? -
2. I easily recommend the Zalman NC2000. As "quiet" is one of the criteria you are looking for, this would be the way to go. I have one, and honestly 90% of the time I can never tell whether this thing is on, but it is and it does work well. It will accommodate the 9-cell standing directly sitting on it (as the NC2000 has a large surface area; it's not heavy but its large and sturdy) but I don't think it would be too comfortable to put on your lap. It does have little adjustable feet on the bottom though. If you decide to get it, go with silver color, as black color shows scratches easily (I heard).
3. As for the fans starting and stopping, I really don't know if there's anything you can do about that. My system does it from time to time (though I am running bios A09), and I've just learned to ignore it. You can try updating your bios from the Dell Drivers Page (the link is for 1645s, which is what you told me you have). I don't know if there is any change in the fan function from bios to bios but it's worth a try. A12 is the most recent for 1645, and since you have a 5730, there's no need to be picky about what bios you use. Try A12.
Hope this helps. -
Thank you for your reply.
1. As for the thermal paste, I think I will try AS5. It's often recommended and it's not expensive (much cheaper then MX3). I had some concerns based on some reviews when it wasn't the best (not even one of the best). But it's more important to me to know that it works fine with this specific notebook.
And how much drop in temperature can I expect after changing it?
2. Zalman 2000 is very often recommended so I will probably go with it. I'm also thinking about model: ZM-NC3000U which can be a little better in terms of cooling and noise (based on what I've read). I'm only o little worried about notebook beeing to high (with 9-cell battery), but from what I see there are not many cooling pad that are flat. I think I will just have to try and see if it works for me.
3. There is an interesting program for DELL notebooks that let to control work of the fan. It works great with my Inspiron 6000, however I cannot install it on XPS 16 (because of some drivers verification on Windows 7 - still trying to solve this). I hope I will be albe to do that and maybe with new thermal past, cooling pad temperatures will be low enough to work in Windows (Office, Internet) without working fan (like during few minutes after turning notebook on). I will wait before I try flashing bios then.
There is one more thing. Today I've open the notebook to see how it will work with another harddrive. As I thought HDD with 5400RPM is noticable quieter. I wonder if it will also be cooler during work. I could live with the noise (however it's not pleasant and can be heard clearly) but the heat below the keyboard (on the left side of touchpad) is really annoying. If it is possible, I would like to make this side cooler. Could changing the harddrive for 5400RPM help with that? (or maybe cooler pad only would be good enough for this?). -
Anywhere from 5C - 10C drop in temperature (it could be less and it could be more). For the thermal paste, it's the application of it that ends up being the most important variable. If it's done well, expect +5C drops in temps. Now the reduction in temps is most noticeable when the laptop is under load, as that's when the heat production is at its highest. In other words, don't expect idle temps to be too much lower than they are now (although it might still reduce idle temps a bit). When the paste is first applied there is a "cure period" of about 200hrs in which the paste must sort of properly set (a little more complicated than that). So if you don't notice lower temps at first give it about 200hrs and let the paste "fully set".
NC2000 and NC3000 are both great. I don't think you can go wrong with either. Personally, the NC3000 does "look" like it'd work better for this system, though I have never used that cooler before so I can't say for sure. As for the HDDs, 5400RPM would spin at a slower rate than 7200RPM, so theoretically I would expect it to generate less heat. It might help with the heat, but I think it would make such a small difference in temps that you won't even notice it (though it's worth a try). If you want more of a noticeable temp reduction, an SSD would be the way to go with no mechanical parts (not to mention the boost in performance). My cooler (NC2000) helps most with heat on that left pad, so a good cooler and a thermal paste might be good enough for you. Good luck. -
hi ppl. i just read about vidock,something that lets you use desktop graphic cards on laptop by external connection.so was wondering if my lappy could use it,as in do i have the min. requierments? heres a snapshot of everest.
oh and i plan to get a hd 5770
thx !!Attached Files:
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i'm still contemplating purchasing a 1647 with the following configurations.
i5 460m
6gb ddr3
ati 5730 1gb
500gb hdd
1080p wled display
what's your take on this system for photography usage? also, what are the kind of issues you people have been facing? i've read about throttling and heating issues but a lot of people said that these were limited to the 1645's. Are there any other complaints you have with this sytem? does it make sense to wait for sandybridge? i'm very confused because of so many options but this is the one that makes, by far the most sense.
any inputs will be appreciated -
i have a 1645 with the i7 quad-core and do not have any problems with throttling. i dont think you would suffer from throttling unless you receive a 90W Ac adapter.
as for photography, my partner is a photographer by hobby and she really likes the WLED 1080p screen. the thing is though, the screen originally has a relatively blue/white hue to it - for lack of a better term, it's not totally "natural". you would need to tweak the ATI color settings a bit to add warmth. beyond that, however, even an "i don't care about lighting or framing" point-and-shoot camera user (aka me) finds that the WLED is really amazing for photos.
i really do like my 1645 altogether. overall i would recommend it, though if you have any other notebooks in mind it wouldn't hurt to investigate them if they are newer than the SXPS 16 models. but since it's getting "outdated" by Dell, i would probably recommend looking at newer notebooks. -
Hi. thanks for the quick reply. i've been looking for a good laptop for quite a while now and i actually did end up buying an hp which DOA'd. It had a 768p resolution on a 15.6'' screen so i think i'm lucky i didn't get a replacement. the others that i was consider ( within my budget ) didn't come with a full hd display. my primary use is going to be for photography so it's absolutely essential for me to have a good screen, given the fact that i don't have a working desktop right now and intend to use the laptop as my main for a while.
The other FHD laptops i found didn't pack as much power as this and thus didn't excite me too much. i do understand that they're outdating the sxps16 now so would it be too much of a gamble to go in for one? i really can't find a better system which packs as much punch as this baby so i'm confused. do you have any suggestions?
i have to decide in the next 10 hours -
short answer:
go for the 1647.
long answer:
honestly? i think the SXPS16 is a very good choice. i only recommended looking at other notebooks in the event that you had other ideas in mind.
the 1080p screen creates a higher "pixel density" (if i may erroneously call it that, for the sake of this explanation) than a 768p or 900p screen, so images come out looking clearer and cleaner. it seems that almost any modern notebook processor coupled with a GPU (heck even the integrated Intel HD series) would suffice for your photography needs. again, as i mentioned before, the default colours are very washed/biased towards a blue-ish hue. you should consult seeker_moc or others for a proper method to calibrate your screen colours (if you have such hardware and necessity to).
i guess the only other notebook i would suggest is the Lenovo Y560. it is essentially the same as the 1645 (very similar specs i think). however, another member of this board (i think seeker_moc or gaah?) claimed that it was not all its cracked up to be. -
yo gyz, i just accidentally found out that the black thing thats sorrounded by a kind of glass on the battery is actually a button.when i press it, about 5 lights light up for a second.what does that mean? like what does the button do? thx
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yep! i pulled the trigger on it. let's hope it doesn't DOA on me like my last HP. The blue-ish tint you talk about can be corrected right?
**The Official Studio XPS 1647 Intel Core i5/i7 "Owners' Lounge"**
Discussion in 'Dell XPS and Studio XPS' started by DeathWalking, Jan 20, 2010.