Studio 1737 can upgrade to Q9000?

Ya, honestly I don't shut it down but a few times a week. But it doesn't matter, I got it down to 43 seconds from power button to login screen. That will suffice. I guess indexing being on does have its benefits.

I am hopelessly enticed by a certain Q9100 on ebay for only $199. Its not an OEM (SLB5G) but a late gen ES (QGMU). I does have temp sensors and E0 core stepping. Its supposed to have unlocked multipliers, but I dont think the ol' 1737's cooling system could handle any higher. Any way its a 2.5hz with a 12MB L2, opposed to my current 6MB. Worth it? Any disadvantages to the QGMU I might not know?

Peace.

 

mmmm Q9100 12MB cache me want.

 

Wait! uh..uh... no i lied Their is no such listing..

no need to look.

fuh real tho... any distinct advantage to a 12MB cache? and 0.200ghz?

 

12MB cache yes, 0.200Ghz ? maybe

 

I decided my Q9k <--(cool right? ) is already setup, and I don't do anything that would really take advantage of a slightly faster quad. Here u go cold: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...641018&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_646wt_1069

Hurry u only got about a day.

 

I think im gonna get a small SSD to put my OS on. Right now I got a 500GB 5400RPM hitachi. Its quiet but slow.

Also, Because my fsb is now 1066 opposed to 800. Would it be a noticeable performance increase to get PC8500? I have PC6400 now. And does the 1737 support DDR3 ram? I have DDR2 now.

Thanks Guys.

 

No on the DDR3. It has DDR2 sockets. The 1745 refresh for Core 2 supports DDR3.

The fastest memory it supports is PC2-6400 (800fsb). You could always but the lowest latency version in there though:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104148

 

The sad irony is, I found that my chipset is able to utilize that speed of memory, but 200 pin DDR3 doesnt exist..

The typos stating that their is such a thing, got my hopes up. BTW, google is freaking fast. While researching this, I found my previous post 30sec after I posted it.

 

Yeah besides the slow 3650 the biggest down side of the 1737 is DDR2 only.

Its kind of silly to have 1066 FSB but only 800mhz DDR2 RAM.

The only thing that really makes my 1737 hyper fast is the 80GB Intel SSD I installed. Adding RAM or even a faster CPU would not make it faster.

Sad part is that its only 80GB.

 

Yeah Ice, the storage medium is routinely the bottleneck in many usage scenarios. An SSD can really make a difference.

 

I beg to differ, I have noticed higher frame rates, and decreased loading, compressing, rendering, photoshop-ing times that I attribute to my Q9K. And I do agree about the SSD, im gettin one muhself. I notice that while the desktop is loading after boot, the CPU load is like 2% , once I get the SSD, it might put that freeloading cpu to work.

 

I really want to try a Q9100 in my Inspiron 1545 but my only concerns are heat and power draw, which will not be too far from twice as much as that of the fastest processor the laptop comes with. An E8435 would be a safe choice, but the Q9100 has 50% more processing power.

Electrosoft, if the limit to power consumption is the motherboard's power regulation circuitry, increasing the capacity of the AC power supply isn't going to do anything.

On an unrelated note, can you describe what the computer did when you tried booting with the QX9300?

Also I think more people need to realize that TDP doesn't mean anything other than some arbitrary power dissipation figure that the CPU's actual power dissipation will fall below. You cannot ascertain much about a processor's actual power consumption from its TDP.

But its not really a bottleneck of the same sort that other components of the system can be.

 

The reason I refuse to change anything at the moment is even with Windows 7 64-bit when I stop doing anything CPU load drops to 0% on both cores, and after or during heavy use W7 will alternate 0% load on Core 0 then flip the load to Core 1 then flip Core 1 to 0% in order to keep the Cores cool, thats very impressive and excactly one of the featires W7 was optimized for Core 2 Duo, with Vista the lowest was 3% even when not doing anything.


Even if I could go to 8GB of DDR2 RAM on my 1737 leaving the CPU alone T9400 2.53Ghz 6MB cache and 1066FSB.

If I had an option of adding 8GB of RAM vs an SSD, its likely the SSD would have the biggest and best performance increase.

Even with a modern CPU like a good Core 2 Duo clicking on iTunes or QuickTime those are always the slowest programs to launch for some reason.

But with an SSD, before I can finsh relaxing my finger from the double click action, iTunes, or QuickTime is already open.


As faster CPU even a Quad Core would not help much, because even wih my Dual Cores iTunes does not use up past 25% of CPU power, Not sure if iTunes is designed for 2 Cores let alone to use 4. Its more hard drive heavy.

So if I had my choice (which has already been made) faster CPU, more RAM, or SSD. What provides the most performance benefit in terms of making your system faster, and also lowering heat output and giving you more battery life, the SSD is the best option in all categories.

When I think about how much better an SSD is I can just imagine telling my kids some day, saying "yeah Timmy, back in the ancient times we actually used stoarge media that had to spin and get really hot" and my kid would be like " no way!! dad thats impossible"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w204btrcPGA


not my video but someone who put an 80gb ssd in their 1737 looks like.

 

The E8435 is a unique chip, hard to find info on it. They go in MAC's right? Anyway, the passmark score for it is about 2,200, not bad. But, your right. The Q9100 rates 3,500 or so.

If you were to get a Q9xx, your chipset is the same as mine, so it should support it. The heat is where you might hit a snag. Judging from my friends 1525, with a so-so dual core, u might have a heat dissipation problem, as his CPU idles about 60C, but you may have an updated model, so, trial and error.

I am also curious as to the result of that QX9300 test, 'lectro..

 

I agree completely. The most noticeable performance increase, by far, would be an upgrade to a SSD. When I mentioned performance increase, I was talking about things like, loading the desktop after boot, or playing L4D2, or Supreme Commander/forged alliance/2 or capturing my screen in full res, or rendering in pinnacle studio/ps-CS4/After effects. its just more smooth. A SSD would help those things considerably as well. But encoding your screen, while having 6 tabs open, while watching youtube videos and PS-CS4 minimized.. all with no studdering, and the cpu load sittin around only 60% A quad is nice too.

 

I am assuming that my chipset would be able to use such low timings? (4-4-4-12) now= (6-6-6-18). I read that, it can be an important factor.

Also, my fsb is higher. Is this the CPU "OC"-ing my fsb, or does my fsb natively support that speed when a capable processor is installed?

 

Ok, then an SSD is the right option for you, but I don't feel that it is for me. I don't think that a lot more money for a lot less space just to load stuff a tiny bit faster, which is barely noticeable most of the time as is, is worth it to me.

Undervolted penryns, using the best thermal paste, using the 1545 heatsink that has a copper and not aluminum base, and modding the fan to run continuously at full blast when at full load would help a ton with cooling. Your friend probably has a conroe at default voltage with the stock thermal paste and fan profile.

The only place I would ever buy either processor is ebay. The show up for very good prices every now and then.

 

Ya, my friend doesn't know anything about computers. I just Dl realtemp on it once to see.

The 1737 (not sure if your familiar with them) have the copper heatsink and I have applied the best thermal paste. I am not familiar with the 1535 internals.

The the 1737 has one pipe across the northbridge, then the CPU, and another pipe on the GPU and southbridge. One problem I experianced when installing the Q9000 was, its thermal max was 100C. No problem. But my northbridge isnt supposed to get that hot.

The increased heat from the CPU + its higher data rate through the now 1066fsb + it sharing a pipe with the CPU means if the CPU ever gets over 75C the northbridge is usually +2C over that.

If the NB ever hits 80C insta-BSOD/crash. the 1737 can handle the CPU's heat being at 80%-90% for about 15min before danger zone. But say intel burn test or prime95 maxing it out, it wont last 6-7min before I have to stop it because of the NB.

In my defense, their isnt a whole lot I do to get the Q9000 to over 60%, without trying. Playing L4D2 gets it to 40-50%. I even tried last night to encode my screen, while PS-CS4-ing, with 7 tabs open, and then watching a 1080p youtube video, and randomly fullscreen-ing that video. It only got to 80%.

U might wanna check into the NB thing, since the 1535 is physically smaller, which I would think (unless it has a fantastic cooling system) would exacerbate the heating problem.

 

It can be a combination of both.

If all cores are firing for rendering, compressing, loading, etc... you any multithreaded>2 situation will definitely benefit from the Q9000, but even so an SSD will alleviate any other possible bottlenecks even during those usage scenarios.

In other words, you can have your cake AND eat it too with a Q9000 + SSD.

 

I would be concerned in a 1545 due to its smaller size and potential heat issues, but you can always mod it for increased airflow if needed.

As for the QX9300 + 1737, Fan on, power to system, blank screen with the QX9300 in there. Similar to when I tried to boot an MSI 1722 with a QX9300 before BIOS update when the QX9300 was introduced. I was updated to the newest BIOS at the time which was months newer than the QX9300 brought to market, but nothing, nada, zilch. I powered on/off multiple times. Put the T6400 back in, booted. Put a T9900 in there, booted. It had all the indications of a lack of BIOS support versus putting a completely unsupported chip in a system and having it momentarily power on then off.

I'm not sure which you're referring to in regards to power to the CPU socket but I agree with what you're saying as I've seen that scenario before numerous times. In the case of the 1737 or 1747: 1747 is a case of not enough power and the PSU alleviates the problem with the system under load (90w system locks/shuts down, 130w handles it with decent wamrth, 150w handles it pretty crisp to the touch). 1737, it was a moot point as it refused to boot at all. It was an itch I had to scratch. Don't ask me why.

 

I agree with 'lectro. And if you to attemp the Q9xx in your 1535, please let me know. I am interested in the results.

 

So the system didn't shut itself off after a few moments with the QX9300? If that is the case, I don't believe it is an issue of bios support. My laptop doesn't support 533Mhz FSB processors, so when I put them in it turns on for a second or two and then shuts off. Pin modded to 667Mhz FSB or greater, the laptop turns on and boots up normally. When I put in a merom based dual core celeron and try to boot at 1066Mhz FSB with the pin mod, the laptop will turn on and stay powered on but the screen will remain blank. The computer theoretically supports it, but the overclock is too high and for some reason the computer hangs. Lowering the FSB to 800Mhz solves the problem. Lowering it to 533Mhz makes it turn off and then shut down. I honestly forget what happens when I pin mod the voltages, but if it hangs and doesn't shut itself off, then I would be pretty sure that if the laptop hangs when turned on, processors are supported but there is a physical limitation (too much heat, power draw, too high of an overclock, etc.), and if the laptop turns on and then shuts itself off it is a lack of bios support. I will have to do further testing because I might not be remembering everything correctly and there are other things I want to try.

 

When you say pin-mod, what kind of modding is done? I have seen where people would bend or break off a pin to eliminate voltage control or something... made me cringe at the thought. Thats way to daunting for me..

 

I have broken off a pin on my celeron 900 to run it at 1066Mhz FSB, but other than that I use tiny "U" shaped pieces of IDE cable wire to bridge different pins of the processor. I put the "U" in upside-down into two adjacent holes in the socket.

 

Nice. That one of those things I would soo botch up. What aspects can u mod with this method? Voltage, FSB, and multiplier unlock?

 

Voltage can be modded on anything. FSB can be done on anything as well, but anything with speed step will revert to a 6x multiplier.

 

Last night I decided to just go the desktop route. I knew I couldn't abandon them and I have all the "support" parts already. It will blow a QX9300 away.

 

These are my observations from previous tests (Many were itch == scratch; scenarios ):

When I put a Merom (T7500 from a T61 and not Santa Rosa) in the 1737 just to see what would happen with a chip that is incompatible, like with my 1722, the system momentarily powered on and shut down.

With a Santa Rosa (667) paired with the PM45, the FSB is adjusted accordingly and the system boots accordingly even in a PM45 system.
My daughter had a Santa Rosa T7600 in her 1722 (PM45 Montevena) which is now in her Clevo M570 (965 Santa Rosa).

With a chip that is supported by the chipset and even socket but isn't recognized by the BIOS, it just hangs with a blank screen and wouldn't make it to post.

My 1722 (PM45) shipped with the 1.0H BIOS. Like many, it shipped before the QX9300 was fully out and it lacked BIOS support. Putting the chip in resulted in a powered on system sitting a blank screen that didn't make it to Post.

Upon updating the BIOS with an older, supported chip, the system then made it to and past post and supported the QX9300 no problem.

The QX9300 in the 1737 hung at power on without shutting down.
The fact the 1737 supports the Q9000 pin out wise and boots shows Quad Core support.

I'm not saying it is definitively a BIOS support issue, but it could be and/or lack of power draw, but I would not discount lack of BIOS support or purposely excluded support.

 

try the Q9300 with a 130 Watt PS or a 150 Watt PS.

I gave up, theres no point in a Laptop Arms race.

SSD and P9700 are enought for a Laptop where speed and battery life dominate over Raw processing power or Gaming.

Let alone that hardly and Laptop even a SLI or CrossFire, Alienware can play Bad Company 2 Maxout with Direct X 11.


I gave up and will rather invest in a Desktop. with a 6 Core I7 980x and SLI NVIDIA.

Maybe in hopes that it can Play Crysis 2 at more than 30 frames per second.

But I have been really against desktops, since here in MIAMi and frequesnt hurrican evacuations make you realize the value of being fully mobile.


Which is why a ViDock II product, is so interesting , desktop graphics performance for Laptops.

The Express Card, is a bottle neck, but much better than on board graphics.

And games like Fallout 3 and Bad Company 2. Are playable since ViDock II supports ATI's 5xxx evergreen series.

 

I did with a 150w PSU, but at idle/boot a 90w would even be more than enough. It is only under heavy load where the 90w PSUs start to strain.

I would never make a laptop my dominant gaming platform nor would I pour 3k+ into a laptop for gaming only, but I would definitely want a laptop to be handle some semblance of modern gaming. Like I said, the 1737 chokes on WoW badly @ 1920x1080 whereas the 1747 and 1647 run it like a beast.

 

Really? I played the burning crusade on an old POS and it was ok. Of course my res is the 1440x900 version, so it will probably do better. I hooked it up to a 42" TV and played L4D2 in 1080p and got like 40fps on maxed out settings. ('cept for AA ) I guess im out of the loop with current WOW, its been like 2 years.

I also noticed that, at least with passmark, the GPU test scores were awful. My friends 3 year old laptop with a Nvidia 7900 gs whooped it. Is the card just that unvervolted/underclocked? or is it the onboard interface opposed to the PCI express slot my friends laptop has got? I hate that you cant change the voltage, I can OC it but you cant go very far before it artifacts or crashed due to not enough voltage. it never even gets over 58C, it has room for heat especially with its own heatsink.

Edit: Oh yeah, cold I got my SSD in the mail and installed it without a problem. the difference is like flippin' night and day. No clicking, spooling sounds now, and they werent loud before. And from a push of the button to watching a youtube video is 36 seconds! wow.

Anyway just out of curiosity what kinds of sequential read/write speeds are you getting? With passmark I have 145 Seq. Write, and 112 Seq Read. The box boasts more, and I know a Desktop is going to be faster than a laptop. I did the recommended tweaks. Its soo fast Im not complaining, but are those speeds to be expected, or am I missing something?

Cheers guys

 

With WotlK, Blizz overhauled the engine in Northrend. Yeah, he has to drop his resolution to 1440x900 to make the game playable. @ 1920x1200 it is so painful on the 3650.

3650:

1440x900 runs good in Vanilla WoW
1440x900 runs ok in TBC
1440900 can get chunky/laggy in WotlK

4650 can handle 1920x1080 in all three.

Beautiful thing about the Studio 17's are those two drive bays, so you can have a wicked fast SSD as your main OS drive in drive bay 0 and toss a 320-640GB monster in drive bay 1.

 

Ya, its odd how only 200 more passmark "points" will make a big difference in video cards. I wish I had the tech savvy to unglue the 3650 from my mobo, and get the 4650 from a 1747 and glue it back on. The pins are identical, and its not even that crap black epoxy, its clear(if that makes a difference)
I did manage to OC mine and get about 10-12 more fps out of it. or from 247 passmark to 315. The 4750 is at 500 for reference.

Oh thats like exactly what I have. I got a 32GB ssd for boot, and a 500GB hdd, for games..and well..everything else.

 

I never really test out read write speeds or do much benchmarking especially on a 1737 it does what I need it to do with the SSD and second HDD in the other bay sometimes. Is that its insanely fast. 1080p Bluray looks amazing on my 120hz Sony RGB LED. Editing photos having the RGB LED display color calibrated properly is critical at 110% of the NTSC color Gamut its impressive.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeCGAovMDq8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DdbITmaxGA&feature=related


(turbo mem video if you are not running an SSD you might as well boost to near SSD performance with ITM its very fast)


Primarily, long battery life, and great WiFi signal reception are my main requirements. On occasion if ncessary maybe some Command & Conquer Generals, or some StarCraft 2 Beta, anything beyond that the graphics card is disapointing. And yet its not because Bluray playback and color tweak ability and control is impressive, So kudos to ATI. "Gaming" was never its function. A desktop replacement and a large 17" very bright RGB LED with amazing colors more than make up for any short comings. Especially when you place it next to a $2,500 17" MacBook Pro and on 50% Brightness my colors are brighter and better than a MBP at 100%. DDR2 is a downer but in Dec 2008 DDR2 800mhz was very nice. If anything I would be considering throwing in a P9700 or a T9900 most likely the P9700 because its faster than my T9400 and uses 28 Watts TDP vs 35 watts TDP now. So that will help battery life just a little bit. And having open 1 or 2 (i forget) PCI Express mini slots, when I install the Intel Turbo memory 2GB so when my SSD is not in there and I have my 7200RPM HDD it ideally acts as 1GB of Ready Boost and 1GB Ready Drive, making the system operate as if the main hard drive, has a 1GB cache buffer, not just its 16MB cache buffer And its just as fast as the SSD in that configuration or feels like it. But when the SSD is in there its pointless. So depending on my mood I have one or the other. Lately just because of how much battery life is saved, and how much "cooler" the SSd runs which also saves power. Plus how much more secure the SSD is because of vibration. Its been only the SSD inside and the other HDD in a eSata external drive bay. Oddly enough I can live off a 80GB its barely enough space. Plus a 16GB Extreme III SD card for certain adult materials which can easily be hidden or smuggled through airports thanks to the SD cards small size.

Ultimately I see laptops as a tool thats designed to play a specific role or use, which is effciency, and portability. The Studio line 1737 and beyond just happen to add a few much desired features like Bluray, a great display, and limited Gaming, some with better gaming than others. My personal "tastes" as well as most people have changed I love Laptops my investment is portable a Desktop, while powerful is cumbersome to transport. Right now 3D Gaming seems primed to take off having seem 3D Gaming in Person, I can promise its not a "gimmic" and rather than invest $2,500 in a Gaming Alienware PC, I will get much more entertainment from a 3D Plasma and a PS3. So for me "gaming" in general on the PC side is on the back burner. I can't justify the need to play Bad Company 2 or Mass Effect 2 at 80 frames per second with 8x AA AF etc in Direct X 11.

http://cache.gawker.com/assets/imag...e87fdc029575c59123e8bb8097c1812a/original.gif

3D is where its gonna be.

 

I dont have an LED mine is just the CCFL. However its good to know your a PS3 fan . I was mistaken however about the SSD tests. I was looking at passmarks sequential tests, which do matter, although Im not exactly sure what sequential read/write is.

But I really wanted straight up read and write speeds, so I ran ATTO. I tested both in IDE mode and AHCI mode to debunk the question of which is faster for myself. With IDE: I got 155464 MB/s write, and 201332 MB/s read. With AHCI (which OCZ claims isnt supported) I got: 155464 write and 229112 Read. So a slight improvement.

I also noted my SATA controller was a generic microsoft one, which OCZ says is fine. I did some research and found some very recent TRIM compatible intel drivers, and installed them. while its so fast already, I didnt notice a real world difference, my WEI (windows experience index) score went from a sad 5.9 to 7.5!

While I was installing the SSD, I noticed that the hottest part of the bottom of the computer was below the CPU area. when I took the cover off, I was surprised at how hot the ram was. I didnt realize that ram got hot enough to only be able to touch for a few seconds. How hot can ram get exactly?

And Ice Cold, since u have the same laptop, is their a thermal zone in HWmonitor that corresponds to the ram? I have 3, I know TZ000 is the northbridge, but I have no clue what the others are.

I also noticed the southbridge was just about as hot.. but it only has that spongey thermal pad held by a piece of plastic. Does the NB get just as hot as the SB? The NB has an aluminum surface attached to the heatpipe, opposed to the CPU's copper surface. Do you think replacing the pad with copper/ or thick arctic silver would help? Or shims/lapping any of them for that matter.

Since I covered several topics here. I will summarize my questions.
(1) How hot can RAM safely get before I should be worried?
(2) Is their a thermal zone that would correspond to my RAM temps? or any way to monitor RAM temps at all?
(3) Does the NB get as hot as the SB?
(4) Would Lapping be worth the effort?
(5) Is their a mod I can do to change the NB's aluminum surface to copper/would that help?
(6)Would a copper shim be better than the thermal pad on the SB?

Srry for all the questions guys..

Cheers

 

#1. I know they make RAM with Heat spreaders already and these look like you can install them yourself if they fit, but lower temps running cooler equal more battery life, who knows keeping the RAM cool may work wonders. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835207003
#2. ??
#3. most likely yes.
#4. If you can do it go ahead.
#5. ?
#6. ?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835207003

try lapping these people say 10 degrees cooler for $7 bucks thats a big deal. Thats an extra 15 minutes more battery life if you drop 10 degrees.

 

Some updates, and of course new questions..

I went ahead and took a dremel tool to the CPU heatsink and, NB heatsink. I got them very shiny, the CPU heatsink was almost mirror like. I would say that i got maybe a 2 or 3C degree reduction in temps. But I still experience that issue with the first two cores being about 10C hotter than the second two. If you are familiar with the inside, they are vertically spaced. The heatpipe comes from the front of the laptop, hits the NB, goes a bit further, and then hits the CPU. Since the cores are vertically spaced it goes across the 1st two, and then the 2nd two, finally proceeding to the fan area.

Would the 1st two cores being hotter than the 2nd two be because maybe they are the first to meet the NB's heat? I mean, the cores are only like 1/4 an inch (if that) apart, would this cause a 10C difference? Or am I just horrible at seating? (despite me doing it like 7 times )

Also, has anyone done a mod similar to where you replace a thermal pad, with a pre-1982 (98% copper) penny/ copper shim? If so, how were the results?

I plan to either make some DIY kind, or buy some RAM heatsinks, and I will let you guys know how that turns out..

Thanks again..

 

Well, I used a dremel tool to deface a pre-1982 penny, and then used a steel wire attachment, and then a buffing wheel to make it smooth on either side. I placed it in the gap on the NB with arctic silver. At idle it was several degrees cooler, but as i ran prime 95, and the penny got hot, the temp was higher. I blame this on the stock NB heatsink. Its some type of aluminum, that I couldnt shine. So when the penny absorbed the heat, it couldnt dissipate it through that aluminum fast enough. So, until I work up the guts to replace that aluminum with copper, arctic silver alone does better.

I included a picture of the heatsink for reference.

 

Yeah, that initial dissipation via the copper shim has to go somewhere.

And that would make sense for the core temps.

Only other idea is to have a winged/fan shim to help dissipate heat passively in conjunction with the aluminum system in place.

One positive of the i7's is the integration of the NB into the chip.

 

just wondering if theres should have been copper between the NB copper pipe connecting to the CPu copper pipe leading all the way out to the head sink.

Between the 2 green rectangles, there should be copper connecting both, More surface area more heat dissapated.

All of these problems and more woul dbe solved by getting an SSD.

What ever difference coolr you may achieve by adding copper or more fins is unlikely to make any difference.


Now eliminating, the heat generated by the Hard Drive, thats a significant savings and much cooler, which keeps everything else cooler in the case.

Adding the or using RAM with Heatsinks will helpo also, the RAM get hot to the touch like you can't even hold it in your hands.

Air Flow. get a Dremel a sharp bit and cut out more vents on the bottom plate cover of the 1737 vent slits, get some mesh and glue it in place. 1737 could use more vents thats for sure.

Another much cheaper and much easier improvement would be to purchase and install a much quieter yet higher quality Fan and get rid of the stock unit.


Thats as creative as I can get.

 

Hey, thanks for the responses guys.

Ah, I didn't know that. Looks like i7's are going the way of AMD sort of . that alone should make future processor upgrades easier. Ya, my plan is not to remove that whole section of heatpipe, rather just remove the aluminum part, and connect teh copper part to the shim i made.

You know, the NB shoould get as hot as the SB right? But, the Sb only has this lil clip that holds a sponge material against it. I bet a shim would help a lot there.

Well ,their is nothing 'between' the rectangles. But, the rectangles do sit flush against 1 large copper square.

As mentioned before, I just wanna remove the aluminum part of the NB heatsink, and connect the shim directly to the copper pipe. Not do away with the bottom half all together. Not sure if that is what u thought. The entire heatsink sells on ebay now for like $13, so i might experiment.

And, In my earlier posts I stated that I did install a SSD in my 1737. I love it, its very fast. No whirring, or clicking.

I was thinking about RAM heatspreaders, but wasnt sure if they would help any. I might try them if you think they will do wonders.

Wouldnt a new laptop fan have to be a perfect fit?

Thanks guys.

 

Oh hey, random question. Is their a difference between a laptop fan and normal computer fan? Like, how exactly does the fan blow air out the side, rather than through top and bottom like a normal fan? Is it the blades, or fan housing? I am looking for a more powerful fan (more than 10cfm), but i want to buy one that pulls air from the bottom, then blows it out sideways, and not out the top. Is their a specific name for a fan like that?

The blades on my current fan, opposed to a normal fan, are small, and almost completely vertical, and their are lots of them, not just 4 or 5. u know, like one of those centrifugal fans for housing air conditioners.

 

Hey guys, I've been following the thread from the start. I might be able to get my hands on a Q9100 or a Q9200 for my 1737, in theory this should work fine, right?

Not sure if I'd need to do anything about cooling?

And btw, what's the max RAM this laptop takes?

 

Forgot to add, my lappie originally came with the P8400 processor

 

Hi. I believe in theory the Q9100 will work. Its very similar to the Q9000. The Q9200 however I have doubts about. Early versions of the 1737 were said to only old 4GB of ram, however I think my newer 1737 will hold 8GB at least. As far as cooling, it would help to apply good quality silver thermal paste. The Q9000 and Q9100 displace the same amount of heat, and mine works fine. Be sure you keep the heatsinks clean as well. As mentioned in my prior posts, keep an eye on the Northbridge temps. The CPU can go to 100C, but the Northbridge doesn't like to get much over 75C. Use HW monitor, to keep an eye on those. Other than that, just make sure the CPU ur getting isnt an Engineering Sample or anything, and u should be fine.

Hope that helps..
thanks

 

Cool, cheers dude TBH I really don't care which of the two processors I get my hands on, doubling the cores will be improvement enough!

Would you recommend some polishing on the cooling contact surfaces beforehand? I can get hold of the entire cooling unit on ebay for peanuts.

 

I also have the service manual which provides with instructions on how to remove the heatsink and the processor. Is there anything I need to be aware of that might not be covered there before I proceed to do the transplant? I've built dozens of desktop computers over the years so I'm not unfamiliar with the brico side of things, however other than RAM and hard drives I've never touched the guts of a lappie.

 

Nah, If u know ur way around in a computer, this laptop wont be a problem at all. Theirs lots or room for a laptop. The CPU heatsink contact is pretty shiny as is. The Northbridge contact however, is just aluminum. A good upgrade might be to shim that. And the mesh part of the heatsink is also aluminum, and really should be copper. If you replace the thermal pad for the northbridge, put lots of paste in its place. Theirs a gap ull need to fill. Other than that, u got it.
lemme know if I can help any more.

 

Nice one dude, will report back back once I get this done. Thanks for all your help

 

Got the Q9100 ready to drop this 12MB cache baby in. was considering the Q9300 but that one is 95Watts TDP and the Q9100 is only 45Watts TDP. Which the 1737 with a T9400 35Watt TDP CPU can easily handle the Q9100.

I was considering something less but this is the only way to get a Quad Core in my 1737. Stracraft 2 should rock now.

Any pics or tutorials on how to take out the T9400 and put in the Q9100.?



Funny thing is that its the ideal upgrade froma T9400 6MB cache which has 410 transitors (the more transistors the better)
directly the Q9100 has 12MB cache keeping the 3MB cache per core ratio, and has exactly double the transistors at 820 Million

its should be smoking fast.

http://ark.intel.com/Product.aspx?id=37033


Since I only upgrade every other die shrink 45nm Core 2 Duo, will skip the entire 32nm generation.

and get a 25nm generation Laptop hopefully in 2011.