Well said.
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That would work. And, offer an advance RMA option like EVGA. That silly thing of having to send them your part to analyze and taking a month to get back in working order is for the birds. That's no way to run an operation. That's like stepping back into the 80's LOL.
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Robbo99999 Notebook Prophet
Woohoo, I just noticed my incoming graphics card has gone up in price to £799 ( https://www.overclockers.co.uk/asus...dr6x-pci-express-graphics-card-gx-44h-as.html), that's just over £100 more than I paid for it, I thought this would happen and it's why I decided to jump on it as quick as I could. It's unfortunate though, because it means these cards aren't really great value anymore to people ordering them now. Overclockers.co.uk have got their first batch of TUF Non-OC 3080 incoming, and they say it's an OK amount which is 50 pieces.....given that it's end of November now, given that I'm position 7xx in the queue, and given the lead time between their anouncements and people receiving the cards it's not gonna be earlier than end of December that I'll see my card I estimate....probably January. That is unless the flood gates suddenly open.....the Nvidia floodgates are not gonna suddenly open are they?
(shifted my expectations by a month....I'd been certain it was gonna be Nov or Dec) -
I think the floodgates will open with the Ampere Super refresh. Nvidia doesn't seem like they really want to sell their Samsung dies based on their behavior.
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Wow you position number has dropped quite a bit! There’s not a whole lot of people ahead of you man. You should have your 3080 pretty soon.Robbo99999 likes this. -
Why would my PC power off while playing “Death Stranding” with the XOC bios ??
I flashed to the Galax XOC bios. And it runs through anything else just fine.. Timespy stress test, Timespy extreme test. This only happens with the XOC 2K watt bios. Death stranding works fine with normal Galax 380 watt bios.
Deathstranding uses more CPU power than any other game I’ve ever played. So maybe it is a combination of the system power overwhelming my PSU?
Is my PSU dying?? Too much current moving through video card??
I realllyyyyy like this Galaxy XOC bios. But unfortunately I may have to flash back to my normal 380 watt Galax bios instead.
I have a Seasonic 1200 prime platinum PSU. I figured it’s enough for my components easily.
Also, I have tried de-soldering both shunts and the results are the same. Maybe the Galaxy XOC bios isn’t game stable? I dunno. I really would enjoy it as a daily if possible.Last edited: Nov 24, 2020 -
electrosoft Perpetualist Matrixist
Best locally was a 700w Thermaltake $60 special with a single PCIe lead so that would be an exercise in futility.
Waiting to hear back from EVGA on the T2 850w issue (I'm at the help desk portion of the journey where you need a ticket # to submit a warranty claim). Basically, If I dial everything back to ~400w total, it will sometimes work.
Push it any harder and it will eventually start clicking and reset. My system will stutter and total pull drops to ~175-275w and stay there.
The tripping point seems to be ~500w-550w
I ordered a Corsair AX1200 from Best Buy since everything else was crazy expensive and GPU + Memory purchases have me licking my wounds. We'll see how that goes and start working backwards.
EDIT: Another thing since PSUClickGate is the CPU fans ramp up and down for no reason at all. CPU is sitting in the 30's and they just ramp up because...well...why not (they never did that before). Also, my lower M.2 bay on my Z390 FTW no longer works atm. I had to move my 970 pro up top. MB might have popped too.
I'll be heading out to a buddy's house in a bit and dragging my desktop and laptop with me to test as much individual components as possible in his Z490 Dark, 10900k Corsair AXi1600 powered FTW3 3090 tower of power to sort out as much as I can what's going on. He also has a spare EVGA 1000w G2 on the shelf I can at least test with while swapping components if needed with his system.Last edited: Nov 25, 2020Johnksss likes this. -
Buying a quality PSU is always the way to go. Hardware nowadays can pull some serious juice.
But I shop thrifty if possible. I bought my Seasonic Platinum prime 1200 for $84 dollars on eBay.
I am running in to some power issues my self. But I think my outlet may actually be the culprit. My PC will just power off and restart. This started since using this crazy 2K watt XOC bios on my 2080Ti. And when both components are loaded (CPU/GPU) it results in tons of powers draw. My CPU and 2080Ti combined can pull 1,200 watts so I think I’m possibly hitting the limits.
My CPU can hit over 750 watts, and my GPU has gone above 460 watts alone. So, I think I need a larger higher wattage and higher amperage PSU.
It seems crazy to think that my PC could be consuming this much power. But then again I’ve seen the numbers these components can use. And I’m getting power shut downs.Last edited: Nov 25, 2020 -
How a quasi-monopoly will drive power supply prices up from 2021 - meaningless certificates for untested power supplies included | Investigative igorslab.de
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3DMark—The Gamer’s Benchmark get more bloated videocardz.de
3DMark is the benchmark that gives you more than a score. The new result screen introduces new features that help you compare your score with similar systems and see what your 3DMark score means in terms of real-world game performance.
The new benchmark result screen is available now in all 3DMark editions. Game performance estimates are only available in 3DMark Advanced Edition and 3DMark Professional Edition.
I wonder when they will remove the old Classic searchLast edited: Nov 25, 2020 -
Falkentyne Notebook Prophet
When was this power supply purchased?
Early Prime and Focus PSU's had the same OCP mechanism as the later X-series, which caused transient shutdowns on Vega 64. And it seems it's causing people with 3080 and 3090's problems also. Having a X-1050 (SS-1050XP) Platinum did not protect you from it.
When Seasonic rebranded their PSU's with PX, TX, GX, etc, and made the OneSeasonic initiative, allowing any of their PSU cables to be interchangeable with other models, they reworked the (DC?) side which prevents this problem from happening.
My Prime PX-1000 Platinum PSU (March 2020) has no problems with a 550 watt 3090 FE shunt modded heat furnace.electrosoft likes this. -
Very ugly.
The bot want all info as in pict https://hwbot.org/news/11440_application_138_rules/
And this is with 1080P. The new new result screen is awful.
https://hwbot.org/submission/461305...rike_ultra_hd_graphics_520_(mobile)_237_marks
https://hwbot.org/submission/4613007_papusan_pyprime_core_i3_6100u_19sec_11ms
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I bought it used. There’s no telling how old it is. I experienced the issue with my first X299 motherboard too. I thought it was the motherboard not mixing well with my 7980XE overclocked too high. So I purchased a x299 dark, and it resolved the issue. But now it has come up again with this high voltage XOC GPU bios. Maybe my PSU is affected by the problem.
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electrosoft Perpetualist Matrixist
What happens when you purposely dial back the CPU OC so total pull fits well below the wattage envelope of the PSU and push the XOC pull? Does it still shut down? Maybe differentiate between shut down due to PSU total overload versus an issue with your GPU overall pull. -
Well I did try 4.6Ghz on my CPU with x30 mesh, instead of 4.8Ghz with x32 mesh which is my normal daily frequency.
The difference in power consumption between the two is very significant.
Im getting shutdowns on both frequencies using the XOC GPU bios.
I may just get another PSU. Or see if Seasonic can repair mine? -
Robbo99999 Notebook Prophet
You'd think they might learn the lessons from this launch at least! (And also Covid could be a thing of the past due to vaccines, or at least not a major issue come that GPU refresh.) Maybe they know they can make more money per unit off the refresh when it's from a different foundry....in which case there could be some logic for getting people to wait for those by not busting a gut to satisfy the demand for the Samsung die GPUs.
It did drop quite a bit, but the lower you get in the queue then the less likely people are to jump ship, because they feel it's worth the wait. End of December/January I would say. -
electrosoft Perpetualist Matrixist
Coupled with @Falkentyne said, at least you can confidently narrow it down to not an overall pull issue fail but specifically the problem he outlined most likely.
It never hurts to reach out to Seasonic and see what they say and/or can do. Worst case scenario is no which is effectively what you will get if you do nothing. -
Not sure if this is true, but everything is possible...
Can't buy a new Ampere GPU? That's because NVIDIA sold them to miners
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/nvidia-thread.806608/page-253#post-11061292
https://hwbot.org/submission/4613778_papusan_catzilla___1080p_hd_graphics_520_(mobile)_1123_marks
Last edited: Nov 27, 2020 -
I would surely use the 1k PSU if your buddy is willing. Because now you need to make sure the board is actually still stable.
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electrosoft Perpetualist Matrixist
Tested my FE 3090 in his 1600w rig and not only was there zero coil whine but my scores were actually ~5% higher pulling a bit more juice over the PCIe leads with the same OC applied and the fans spun up meaningfully for the first time when not manually set to 100 for maximum cooling runs.
Even with his 1000w EVGA with my FTW Z390 CPU fans on NH-D15 still kept ramping all over the place even with idle temps in the 30's and motherboard lower M.2 slot is definitely dead. One time it wouldn't start up and just powering over and over in an odd car turning over kind of way. This was even with my spare GTX 1060 I keep as a backup and his spare 2060.
Tried his FTW3 3090 with my 850w PSU on his rig to isolate the PSU and absolutely determine if it was one of the problems or perhaps it was the MB all along and watched it absolutely click, dark screen, freeze for a second, kill o watt dropped to ~280w and then the picture came back. This was at anything over ~500w.
So it is my MB AND PSU that are on their way out....both EVGA. I'm still waiting to hear back on my help desk ticket for my PSU, but I'll end up opening up another claim on the MB too.
My Corsair HX1200w (not AX) PSU will be here Tuesday from BB but the state of my MB leaves me kind of in a pickle as I don't want to keep subjecting my FE 3090 to a on the fritz MB. I swapped in my 1060 for now.
Parts are expensive.
On a side note he had a few systems and watching a budget build MSI Z490-A Pro handle a 10900k @ 5.2ghz no problem was pretty nice. It ran a little hotter than his Dark but besides that was right there with it. I could get it from him for cheap and the FE 3090 was zooming along on it with the 1000w PSU no problem. I'm contemplating it at this point as I just need to be up and running.
It is a little funny this all came to a head on WoW Shadowlands launch day the primary reason for these upgrades....but just a little. -
Nice. You got to the root of the problem. Now for the waiting game.
Right now my 10900K is boxed up while I have my 4930K& Rampage IV Extreme Black Edition up and running with my 3090 FTW3 Ultra. And I must say...... I lost like 200+ frames in BlackOps Cold War. I'm getting about 95 FPS@1440P at best with just about all settings maxed out. No motion blur though.Robbo99999 and Rage Set like this. -
And yet I still see people championing x58 like it still plays everything at ultra 60 FPS lol
Rage Set likes this. -
Robbo99999 Notebook Prophet
Well the 95fps that Johnksss quoted is above 60fps, so it's not a crazy idea!
Johnksss likes this. -
Unless said title has and AVX workload, then its probably quite a bit lower
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Robbo99999 Notebook Prophet
I dunno, but 60fps is likely not very hard to achieve CPU wise in most titles, and that 4930K has 6C/12T and is overclockable.....not good enough for high refresh rate monitors as Johnksss found out when he lost 200 frames downgrading from 10900K, but I'd think 60fps is pretty achievable in most games. -
I was worried about how X299 platform would perform at high refresh rate gaming with my 165Hz 1440P monitor. If it wasn’t for overclocking everything my experience wouldn’t be so hot.
The CPU at at 4.8Ghz does ok. But I think the memory helps the most with IPC. Running DDR4 4000Mhz CL15 in quad channel. And my mesh frequency is overclocked to the maximum. -
Right but that's also the x79 platform and also has avx support, where x58 lacks it. It was a great platform for its time but it's quite due for retirement imho
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Yeah I think X79 is toast. X99 wouldn’t be too bad today though.
Maybe like a 6950X and fastest possible DDR4.Rage Set likes this. -
Is there a flow direction on the EKWB vector waterblock? Mine is Acetal so I can’t really see it, but after looking at the Plexi blocks, they really look like they would be optimized for a certain flow direction. Maybe I’m just being particular and flow direction doesn’t matter.
Last edited: Nov 27, 2020Rage Set likes this. -
Loop order doesn't matter. It is (still) a hotly debated topic but it has been proven many times (I have tested it myself in numerous builds) it doesn't matter. Although there will always be believers that swear that it does.
Robbo99999, Johnksss and tps3443 like this. -
I’m gonna have to lap my IHS or go direct die on my 7980XE. My temps were so amazing on my last AIO block. But now with my new waterblock most of the cores peak at 65-68C and a few odd ball cores are hitting 86C-89C. I’ve tried reseating the new waterblock several times with no luck, or very minimal change. With the old expanded AIO setup, I could just rotate 90 degrees until I found the best spot that made the best contact. I’m sure this new block is flat, and it’s just not working well with my warped IHS.
Should I go direct die? Or lap the IHS and try to make it flat?? -
Last edited: Nov 28, 2020
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Need some help fellas. I started getting random BSOD yesterday and it got worse. It seemed to be triggered when gaming or while swapping large files back and forth over drives (I was backing up in prep for a wipe). I figured it was my memory acting up after 7 months of total stability. I had just done an BIOS update so I thought maybe that was causing it. So updated to a newer beta BIOS and it didn't help, then rolled back to an known older stable BIOS and still no go. I then underclocked the hell out of my memory and viola it was stable again. But going from 4000Mhz CL16 to 3200Mhz isn't something I'm going to accept with 4400Mhz ram sticks. I tried all combos of XMP, timings, upping voltages, etc and nothing worked to stabilize the system. I was running 1.45v DRAM and 1.2v VCCIO and VCCSA so nothing crazy to achieve 4000Mhz CL16. Certainly nothing that should have degraded the IMC that quickly, at least I thought that. I also did 2 complete OS wipes and reinstalls with no fix. Then after an afternoon of frustration I thought maybe the board has gone to **** and ran to Microcenter at 930pm and grabbed a Maximus Hero they had in stock and swapped my rig. I thought that did the trick and then BAM BSOD after about 30 minutes. Pissed off I swapped back to my Extreme board and tinkered with no XMP and manually tuned the memory to 3900Mhz CL17 and it's been working fine since. If I go to 4000Mhz or use XMP it will BSOD.
Do we think the CPU IMC has degraded? Bad RAM stick that I'm going to have to isolate? I really just want to minimize returns of items while troubleshooting. If it's the IMC that will totally suck since this CPU is really cherry core wise.
Running a memory test now.Robbo99999 likes this. -
Tested each individual stick and in pair in different sockets? Maybe download Who Crashed and see what error codes pop up and search on them on the web.
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I think I missed the point about me (lol) complaining about losing fps while waiting for my new to me board to arrive. To whether or not it has avx in game or not.
I suspect it's more about dram frequency in this case. 2666
Mine was doing fine: 4.4 Ghz / 4000 Mhz Memory Quad Channel / 2700 Cache
The debate of the century here. I usually go from res-cpu-gpu-rad or chiller-to res.
Try turning the block around 90 degrees. try all 4 turns and see if anything changes.
What did the event viewer say?Donald@Paladin44, Rage Set, Robbo99999 and 1 other person like this. -
Thanks! After getting some sleep and trying each stick and then sets of sticks at 4000mhz CL19 in dual channel I’ve isolated which set has gone bad. So far one is passing no issues. The other instant blue screen or immediately after login. Then fails in a mem test near instantly while the other passes no issues. Cranked the voltage to the **** kit and still failed. Problem looks solved. Thank god it’s not the CPU.
First mem failure in a long time. Haven’t had any fail since DDR3 with a first gen i7.Johnksss, electrosoft, Robbo99999 and 1 other person like this. -
Nvidia shipped around 250.000 cards to the miners and AMD shipped most of their cards to the reviewers
Maybe AMD also helped the miners with cards as well?
AMD representatives Mr Azor bragged that the Radeon RX 6000 would not be a paper launch. Yeah nothing have changed from that front.
It appears that more cards were shipped to reviewers than to actual customers. Users reported that not a single store in their country would even receive a custom card at launch. To make things worse, they were unable to confirm when would such shipments even begin.
Proshop provides Radeon RX 6800 stock information videocardz.de
https://hwbot.org/submission/461541...e_extreme_hd_graphics_520_(mobile)_452_marks/
Last edited: Nov 28, 2020 -
Direct die for everyday usage? I would go with lapping the IHS or even get a new copper IHS from Rockit that way you can keep the original intact.
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What’s wrong with direct die everyday? I was gonna use thermal paste since there’s no IHS anymore.
Either way. At this point I plan to keep this platform for a while. So I won’t have to delid again, I’ll just lap the current IHS. I know it spins like a top on bearings when you attempt to spin it on a flat surface. So I will get some sand paper, and use the glass panel panel from my old case.Last edited: Nov 29, 2020 -
Robbo99999 Notebook Prophet
Good job, you found it! I've never had any RAM fail on me either.....oh actually, I think I'd almost erased it from my mind, I fried some RAM sticks in my laptop by hoovering (vacuum cleaner) out dust from the laptop...think I touched the vacuum nossle to one of the sticks or something...static electricity I guess. -
AMD went same route as Nvidia did with their Mobile RTX "clock-block v3" @Prema isn't it amusing? Hooyah! (•̀ᴗ•́)و ̑̑ The desktop cards follow the mobile
And will AMD do the same for 6900 XT ?
AMD Radeon RX 6900 XT Flagship ‘Big Navi’ Graphics Card Features 3.0 GHz Maximum GPU Clock Speed
Donald@Paladin44, Johnksss, Rage Set and 1 other person like this. -
Yes, the path the water takes through the block does matter. The port that is nearest the center is almost always the "in" port and the one near the edge is usually the "out" port. It looks like you have them backwards judging from those photos.
Exactly the same here. CPU always gets the coldest water first.
SMH... figures. Seems like AMD has a mental block about overclocking that translates into clock-blocking. They haven't had a good track record in terms of GPU durability, so maybe they're doing that to avoid a blast from the past.
Nothing, really. That is my preference. FWIW, every laptop that uses a mobile CPU (and older ones that had socketed mobile CPUs) are direct die.Last edited: Nov 29, 2020Donald@Paladin44, Johnksss and Papusan like this. -
Guys! I have done it!!
I run 2,175Mhz on my 2080Ti and I sustain 2,160Mhz in whatever for however long.
I have run some of these in game benchmarks mirroring the settings to reviewers online, and I am actually surpassing a stock RTX3080 FE. Especially games like “Metro Exodus” where the power draw just hammers most GPU’s and it clocks them down, and reduces voltage to fit inside of their default little power budget. In my case, my 2080Ti just pulls however much juice it needs to maintain that boost.
I am impressed with my 2080Ti at 2,160Mhz to say the least. While it may not be very efficient, it sure is fast!
The XOC 2K watt bios just didn’t work out. I went back to the Galax 380 watt with both 8 OHM resistors soldered in place. Locking the voltage to 1.093MV and Boost clock to 2,175Mhz. And the card just cruises through at 2,160Mhz in whatever.Last edited: Nov 29, 2020Johnksss, Rage Set, Robbo99999 and 1 other person like this. -
Its certainly nice to get a static core clock after a fine tune.
Its one reason I ended up sticking with my 5700XT as well, no coil whine, and I was able to tune it to 2150c without much trouble.
The 6800 XT will be a nice addition some time next year as my PSU handles 320w just fine (550w). The way things are right now though, next year will be a better time for buying as I expected.Rage Set likes this. -
@Mr. Fox
This is my water flow. This is backwards?
The port with water flow going in is directly center with GPU die.
Anyways, if it’s setup right I got lucky and it was all by chance. But if not I’ll switch it.
Reservoir-Pump-Radiator-Radiator-GPU-CPU-“back to Reservoir”
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It looks like you have the water coming into the CPU block in the correct port if I am interpreting things correctly. There is no rule that says you cannot run the water through the GPU first. Peronally, I would run the coolest water into the CPU before anything else, since the CPU tends to run hotter than a GPU. So, if it is working to your satisfaction leave it that way. The more important thing is that your water is passing through the CPU water block going the right direction. The reason this is important is to reduce turbulence and trapping of air bubbles in the CPU block. Otherwise, it would be like a GPU block (which is often bi-directional with no change in performance).
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Yeah I went GPU first intentionally. My thinking was, I can easily run 4.8Ghz stable on my 7980XE by keeping it under 80C. But GPU’s can’t do this. My motherboard will let me burn up my CPU at whatever voltage and frequency, but my 2080Ti won’t let me fry my TU102A die at whatever voltage and frequency.
The issue I am having now is massive core temp divination. (1) core hits 87-89C, and another at 77C, while the rest are sitting around 68C. I think my IHS is the issue.
I cured the IHS and glue with the clamping force of my last waterblock. So it sat perfectly flat against it while it dried.
I am gonna have to most likely delid again and lap the IHS then reinstall waterblock for a perfect mating.Robbo99999 likes this.
*Official* NBR Desktop Overclocker's Lounge [laptop owners welcome, too]
Discussion in 'Desktop Hardware' started by Mr. Fox, Nov 5, 2017.
![[IMG]](images/storyImages/3-C6-ED308-9-D02-4-EA1-ACC8-9162-F550-A733.jpg)