*Official* NBR Desktop Overclocker's Lounge [laptop owners welcome, too]

The main solace you can take from this is that with the price hikes almost all of the other 3rd party custom cards are close to or now cost more than the Kingpin 3090 which is insane. Go check Best Buy, Newegg, CDW, etc.... the pricing has trended upward across the board. I'm rather shocked (and pleased) EVGA only bumped it up $70, but their other cards took big hits upwards too and overall the price premium on GPUs (both AMD and Nvidia) and AMD cpus is a little out of bounds.

Like I mentioned before, it is the perfect storm (frozen disposable income, homebound, covid, tariffs, production costs, demand) and upgrading right now is a very costly endeavor. I hope pricing returns to some sense of normalcy by the fall or this time next year.

But let's not forget didn't the 2080ti Kingpin launch @ $1799?

980ti Kingpin $850
1080ti Kingpin $1000
2080ti Kingpin $1800
3090 Kingpin $2000

I don't think we'll ever see top dog pricing below $1500 ever again.

Even AMD cards are now priced in the stratosphere even on best buy which doesn't mark up over the MSRP that is being asked but will adjust based on new MSRPs issued.

 

They made the OC lab 2080ti with the XOC 2KW factory bios.

So maybe they’ll do the same with the 3090. But I just hope it’s not outrageously expensive

These cards had a rare voltage control application. You could control the memory voltage and core voltage externally.

 

Yes, I agree. I am entering a phase of re-evaluating everything. While this is financially sustainable for me, I'm not sure if I want to sustain it. The bang for buck proposition just isn't there any more. Prices have far exceeded the rate of inflation and I don't like spending my hard-earned money in such a frivolous manner when the return in terms of pleasure and satisfaction derived from it isn't growing at a consistent pace as the price.

 

Hmmm, true.

My immediate options are:

Order a single 120 AIO from Artic and cool my 9900k from the rear and mount the Kingpin 360 in the front.

Move everything back to the Corsair 540 as it has room for a 280 up top and a 360 in the front.

Do a split top mount with the CLC 280 on the DG-77 (fans inside, radiator outside) and then mount the 360 in the front but the top would look super janky.

Leave the glass panel off and mount and leave the radiator standing upright outside the case.

Alternatively, if I'm looking to keep an all EVGA look and build, I could hunt down a 400-HY-CL12-V1which is a 120 but retains the illuminated pump and keep the 9900k @ 5ghz.

 

You can control voltage with a K|NGP|N card as well. Not with MSI Afterburner and Precision, mind you. It takes a special application (Classified) or hardware tools.

Thanks for the photo. I've never seen one of those before. They must be an albino unicorn and even more rare than the air cooled unicorn version. I am still using that 2KW vBIOS on my 2080 Ti FTW3. It works better than any other vBIOS. I also use the 2080 Ti K|NGP|N 2KW vBIOS on it. They work almost the same... varies slightly by benchmark which one works best.

You can count on it being outrageously expensive. What you can't count on is being able to actually buy one... at any price.

 

Yeah they only made 100 of them. But there is one on ebay right now. I was supposed to buy one, but the seller backed out. If they reduce the price on that one I would certainly buy it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GALAX-RTX-...560647?hash=item5dbf119b47:g:W~sAAOSw5clf9d4w

 

You've got a number of options available without disturbing your case. Using the K|NGP|N radiator inside of the chassis and moving the CPU cooling to the outside does make the most sense.

That's too much money for obsolete, but it's not any more idiotic than some of the lesser 2080 Ti prices I have seen. It's not going to beat an ordinary 3090 though, and therein lies the issue of paying that much for yesterday's best. If you could buy that one for $1,000 or less it might be worth grabbing it as a novelty item. I wouldn't sell my 2080 Ti for what it's worth. It's worth more to me because it's paid for and I don't have to try to replace it with something inferior that is grossly overpriced, LOL. To get something better, I'd have to add money out of pocket. It's a no-win proposition.

 

US $1,500.00 for yesterday's tech. Nope, not me And if so what are you willing to pay? Same as a scalping priced 3080?

"The Worlds First Ray Tracing Gaming Graphics Card". Have not so much value now.

 

Right. And, slower than a 3080. Doesn't make good sense to do that.

 

Yeah, rather see if you are able to get a 10GB well branded 3080 card then sell it for 3080 Ti if that happens. That HOF card priced at $1,5K will loose its value for each new months going forwards. And as Ray Tracing Gaming Graphics Card it has already lost its value.

GALAX preparing GeForce RTX 3090 HOF videocardz.de
GALAX GeForce RTX 3090 HOF PCB pictured with monstrous VRM design.

More Details and Backgrounds on Shortage - Why Graphics Cards Are So Hard to Buy (and Manufacture) igorslab.de

 

I have several 2080 TI's that I use off and on. I generally don't keep my hardware for long unless it can benefit my work life in addition to my personal. I had all of the KP cards and after a bit of time, I've sold them.

My goal is to bench the card, get some points or even a record or two, then sell it. I often sell at a loss but as long as I recoup at least 65% of what I paid, I'm fine with losing the 35%.

I hear you bro. I'm going to pick it up since I haven't purchased any new hardware for "play" in awhile and it is still Winter here in the Northeast. Yesterday it was 12 degrees, so I can use my garage for some benching.

 

I’m not buying anything, was only showing mr fox they existed, and were obtainable.

I was gonna buy one for $1,000 last week, but the deal fell through on me.

That one is wayyy too much.

But for $1,000? Sure i’d buy it! I
mean, RT performance is absolutely stunning. Besides a $2,000 dollar 3090 what else is there.

All GPU’s are $1,000-$1,200 bucks in order to play ball!

My 2080Ti Port Royal =10,600 “Overclocked”
RTX3080 Port royal=11,000 “Stock”
AMD 6800XT Port royal =8,900 “Stock”

3090 FULL OC or BUST!! Unless one can grab a 3080 for less of course. But the market is a mess.

 

I have someone offering $800 for my 2080Ti. And I have $1,000 dollars in my hand right now, and I am struggling to find a 3090 locally or online with taxes to even fit inside of that $1,800. And this is the only GPU that offers a solid performance boost over my 2080Ti.

What has the market come to? I literally can’t throw away $1,800 dollars at an upgrade if I wanted to lol.

I must spend more. @Mr. Fox I totally understand how you feel. Especially since you own a Kingpin.

 

I am not sure if you can wait, but I'm sure my 3090 KP will be on the market soon'ish.

Edit: In addition, my Asus 2080 TI OC with waterblock may appear.

 

I already have a 2080Ti on water cooling. She runs super strong too. I would love to find a 3090 at a steal. I just think I need to be patient.

$1,499 plus taxes would be a dream come true right now for a 3090! haha.

 

Yeah, it's really sad. I wouldn't sell it unless you can "make money" on the deal. Otherwise, there is no intelligent reason to consider it. What I mean by that, $800 + $1,000 in-hand. If you have to add money, probably not a smart move. Not really "making money" but not having to come up with more money is what I meant. The only reason I purchased the 3090 KP is I had cash from some side jobs I did and didn't have to take money away from somewhere else. So, if I don't count the labor and time that I had invested in the side jobs, the GPU was free. (I know, that's kind of a messed up way to look at it.) Otherwise, I would not own it. Plain and simple.

I was considering buying an X170 and chose the 3090 KP instead. I still think that was the smarter choice, even though I don't feel smart for paying so much for a GPU.

Now, $800 for your 2080 Ti isn't a bad price. If you can get by with a used older GPU for $150 - $200 (I paid $100 for my 780 Ti Classified a year or two ago) and leave the $1800 in a savings account until things normalize, there's nothing wrong with that idea. The only thing that could go wrong with that approach is things never do return to normal again and/or things get worse. Then you're screwed. But, so is everyone else. Que sera sera.

 

We reached out to Byrne to verify this system is real, and he confirms that he made it himself. In fact, when we asked if it was real, he responded: "Indeed, just to annoy gamers."
RTX 3080 Mining Rig in a BMW’s Trunk Meant ‘Just to Annoy Gamers’ tomshardware.com | Today

Not all miners is idiots, but he here take the whole cake. 1000 miners with 20 card each, will destroy for 20.000 gamers. Double it up and you see where it lands. And this on top of the ongoing shortage of cards.

I havent the new cards, but how is the RT performance vs oc'd 3080 ?

Probably not so much different than with stock cards https://www.techspot.com/article/2109-nvidia-rtx-3080-ray-tracing-dlss/#:~:text=When looking at DLSS results,Ti sees a 37% hit.

The RTX 3080 is also a much more capable ray tracing option at 1440p. The RTX 2080 Ti was mostly a 60 to 80 FPS card at 1440p with ray tracing in the most graphically intensive games. The RTX 3080 pushes up into the realms of high refresh rate 1440p with ray tracing, and if you’re coming from the RTX 2080 which struggled at this resolution, the 3080 will be a night and day upgrade.

 

Control shows the largest generational improvement of RTX3000 series over RTX 2000 series than any other game.

So this is the best possible scenario.


RTX3080 @2,085Mhz Core/ 20,204Mhz memory overclock. "CONTROL" 106FPS W/ 9900K @5.1Ghz


RTX2080Ti @ 2,115Mhz Core/ 16,222Mhz memory overclock "CONTROL" 91FPS W/ 7980XE @ 4.8Ghz


Both settings are mirrored identically, resolution, DLSS, scene, even GPU usage is solid on both, everything!! The overclocked RTX3080 at 2,085Mhz is 16.5% faster than my 2080Ti at 2,115mhz


Hope this helps!

Anyways, no matter how you slice it, this really lands a OCed 2080Ti right between a 6800XT and a RTX3080. This makes upgrading tough. We’d all want that 3090 boost minimum atleast I imagine we all would.

My CPU is pretty well optimized, but that 5.1Ghz 9900K may possibly add to that 16.5%. So the gap very well could be even smaller. I’m running really good memory, so I think it’s all just raw GPU performance that shows that 16% boost.

 

We talk about a upgrade from 2080 Ti to same gen cards. This won't make any sense See bro Fox post http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...rs-welcome-too.810490/page-1000#post-11073246

"If you can get by with a used older GPU for $150 - $200 (I paid $100 for my 780 Ti Classified a year or two ago) and leave the $1800 in a savings account until things normalize, there's nothing wrong with that idea"

 

@tps3443

What was your best Port Royal? I'm sure you posted a pic before, but I forgot.

 

That price may have been possible last year, but I don't think we are ever going to see a $1500 3090 again, at least not new. After receiving my EVGA 3090 KP notification, I did another hour of research. Outside of the 3090 Founder's edition, there are no other S1500 3090's. And let's face it, as you know, the 3090's in the 1600 to 1900 range can't compete with the KP card.

Feel free to disagree, but I fear that consumer PC hardware is never going to be the same again in terms of pricing. Nvidia, AMD and Intel have seen that we are willing to spend a lot. I can argue that there is no mainstream. Just five to six years ago, a full high end mainstream PC would cost between 1000 to 1300. That same mainstream high end PC now costs 1800 to 2400 and it doesn't even have the best of the best. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/clx-se...vme-ssd-6tb-hdd-black/6441384.p?skuId=6441384 This desktop from BB is 5300 and it has "mainstream" components.

 

If I get a basic 3090 it’s getting a waterblock and soldered shunts for more power immediately! Plus any higher power bios will be flashed “If available” to help as well.

 

If I power on my PC and click “Run Port royal” it gets 10,600. I mean, that’s with my daily 24/7 settings.

That’s not a best. But real world performance.

 

This is real world stock performance with my 3090 KPE with my daily driver CPU (5.2GHz) and memory (4600 CL18) settings. I just ran it on my cancerous 20H2 crash test dummy OS with all of the complimentary digital STDs from the Redmond Retards.

With max stable OC on the GPU is 15700~. CPU OC doesn't really affect much on PR. This is probably my least favorite benchmark. It's only useful for ray tracing performance testing, and while I like ray tracing, it's not that important in the grand scheme of things.

 

LOL, you know that isn't a fair comparison, bro.

 

All is fair in love and war, LOL. People that play fair don't buy a 3090. We get banned on Twitter and Facebook for inciting violence.

Maybe it's because we like throwing cold water on other people's ideas.
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/57352048

 

Looks fair to me. Now that’s a good performance boost!

 

Indeed. Top 15 ranking for now. After more LN2 jockeys can get their hands on one, that will be over and I will be lost somewhere in the obscurity of the top 25 or top 50, depending on how many can get their hands on one.

https://hwbot.org/submission/4666709_mr._fox_3dmark___port_royal_geforce_rtx_3090_15731_marks

But, the question is, "Is it a $2000 performance boost?" Probably not. But, it sure feels good when I stop analyzing the cost for a few minutes. It's going to take a while for the horror of that to wear off, LOL.

The goofy (and disgusting) thing about Port Royal is that you don't need a good CPU or a good overclock of whatever CPU to get a fluffy score. I always thought that about Fire Strike, but Port Royal is worse. It is strictly a GPU benchmark, and more specifically a GPU ray tracing benchmark. As such, its current rise popularity is puzzling to me. I takes a lot more than a nice GPU to impress me with a system. Not to minimize the importance of the GPU, it's only one part of the overall equation. Paired with other equally impressive components it forms something awesome as a complete package. All by itself, it's not particularly exciting.

 

You need an Ryzen now to get the best total scores in many 3D benches. Even with 3DM FS you won't come on top with Intel in any form or shape (Oc'd). Intel....

 

Seriously port royal could care less about a CPU. @Johnksss hit 15k or sub 15K with a 4930K, using his kingpin 3090 lol!

 

Port Royal is a pure graphics Benchmark. See my post with 3770K and Port Royal. A wimpy old 4 cores from 2012 paired with 2080Ti

Most of the other 3Dm benchmarks have an processor benchmark test. Who add to the total score. But main weight is still on the graphics.

Ryzen throw up the total score even if the graphics score is much lower. All depends on how much lower the Cpu score is calculated. With etc 3770K running full bore, the total scores would be completely crushed and pushed into oblivion in same bench even with near 50K in graphics

https://hwbot.org/submission/4665685_joe_cool_3dmark___fire_strike_geforce_rtx_2080_ti_37202_marks



Edit.
How are 3DMark Fire Strike scores calculated? support.benchmarks.ul.com

3DMark Score Calculation - how to calculated your 3DMark scores

The older Futuremark benchmarks add more weight on the Cpu. See etc 3DM11

 

Just got delivered. The elusive MSRP $1499 3090. Was sort of a impulsive purchase when I was thinking about dumping my KPE and just using this for gaming. The 390w power limit shouldn't matter much for pure gaming and I'm not overclocking as much as I used to. Still haven't opened it, as I am trying to decide. I suppose I could test it out and still easily sell it without issue locally.

 

@Talon lol, role reversal atm......

I sold my FE 3090 and my current status (till I have to relinquish it in a few weeks):



Why wouldn't you use your KP for gaming?

 

Nice! Gratz on the KPE. Have you tested her yet?

Like I said I still haven't decided. I may end up just keeping the KPE, but it feels wasted for 'gaming' alone. It is a beast card, it's overbuilt, and gives you voltage controls and what not, but for my daily gaming I don't touch those. I really wish they would have just released a waterblocked card and an beefy copper aircooled card like the 980 Ti and 1080 Ti cards. The 1080 Ti with all that copper was sexy AF. I honestly prefer aircooled cards for ease of access and interchangeability. Then you can just get real block if you want to go water.

 

I'm trying to figure out how to install this monstrosity along with good internal air flow and temps. Now that it's here, I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to "un-retire" my Corsair 540 and do another complete build out from it vs this DG-77. It is just a wee bit too small as even the bottom space for the 360 is packed with PSU cable excess and the bottom of the KPE 360 rad really won't even be able to breathe properly. That's going to be an all day project.

I really had no complaints about the FE 3090. It was the type of card I would (and kind of did) aesthetically mold my existing components around for looks. The HSF threw off so much heat and so much spilled into the case I ended up removing all the sides to house it and just let it radiate especially since I was running a NH-D15 then too. It definitely warmed up my computer room:



I agree about the Kingpin 1080ti. I had one and it was a thing of beauty.

 

Or you can throw some 5 mOhm shunts on it and call it a 600W card. The depressed edges are HELL to get solder to stack to since theres a gap, if you know how to desolder, you can put on 3 mOhm replacement shunts for the same 600W limit (the card is limited by SRAM input/output power which doesn't seem to have a shunt but affects an internal power rail (TDP Normalized % sees it).
Desoldering might be easier than trying to stack shunts if you have a hot air gun and the proper desoldering equipment (you're supposed to heat the PCB with a hot air gun otherwise it just absorbs all of the heat from the soldering iron)

 

I thought that was your buddies card? that’s just a temporary install? Or your gonna still run the 3070?

 

Just solder your 3090. It’s easy as heck. I soldered and stacked the resistors on someone’s 3080 FE the other day. It was easy peesy just like 2080Ti’s.

Waterblock, and solder!

Beast mode! Then you’ll have around 550 watt limit, should be nice on water.

 

Man, I would love to have a $1,499 dollar RTX3090!

Very hard to come by for sure!

 

Yup, still his (well technically mine till he pays me for it). He already got his primary KPE card and sold his FTW3 3090. He wants to link them....yeah....I know.

There would be no way I'd remove the beautiful aesthetics of the FE 3090. That's what makes it so nice and unique.

If you're going to block it I'd pick another 3x8pin card personally or just stick with the KPE for that.

 

How did you get the solder to STICK to the side of the crappy depressed shunts on the FE?

It took me about 10 hours (I am NOT kidding) to solder stack two (1 each) 5 mOhm shunts on the two 8 pins because I couldn't get the solder to stick. The flux either just burned off or the solder got on a layer then decided to meld to the new shunt instead of melting to the original also :/ I finally managed to get it to stick after a big scraping of the edges with a flat blade (even though I scraped several times before). It worked fine on the two 8 pins (I have MG 842AR on the SRC, PCIE Slot and MVDDC shunts, which seems to be stable long term already).

And then it took me---do not laugh at me--ANOTHER TEN HOURS JUST TO DO THE GPU CHIP POWER SHUNT. No matter what I did, I could not get the solder to stick. It actually seemed to stick better if I didn't put any flux on it at all, but then when I put on the second shunt to melt the sandwich (remember there's a gap--that's the problem, the eVGA, Asus and MSI cards don't have these edge gaps on the shunts!), it would re-melt and stick to the new shunt instead of the original

The solder had NO problems at all sticking to the new shunts when I tested applying solder to them...the solder literally stuck like glue...

I had the GPU Chip Power shunt scraped all the way down to the copper, then I finally just gave u and man-moded it by working the iron "inside" the gap between the shunts and forcing Conductive Balls of Doom ™ @Papusan @Mr. Fox to bridge them by brute force, and hoping I managed to get enough solder underneath to maintain a connection. So far it's been 12 hours since that BS and it still seems to be holding together.

That high temp 3M polymide tape I bought from Amazon at least stopped me from destroying my 3090 FE. That 3M tape is really good stuff. You really do get what you pay for.

 

I have/had my eye on the Meshify 2 XL. A fellow over on the OC forums posted a pic of his Meshify with not only the KPE but the ginormous Arctic 420 installed. How far the KPE tubes have to stretch for the front rad is pretty monstrous. I can see why the Lian-Li has a back side panel rad mount. I do like how the 420 mounts up top, though.

 

I soldered an Asus TUF 3080 yesterday. I don’t know why I said FE. But yeah they all usually have that conformal coating so solder doesn’t stick at all. You’ve just gotta sand the edges down with a foam nail file until it turns a copper color. The resistors on the FE models may be different.

I always sand down the new resistors, and I sand the old ones when I am about to stack and solder them. This always makes the solder stick super well.

 

I mean I have a 2080Ti FE cooler sitting in the closet, it’s pretty too though. And it looks just so much more beautiful with a full coverage waterblock. Heck yeah! I would remove that air cooler so fast. That fancy air cooler only shortens your silicon life span, and cooks your silicon lol. And your clocks drop in games.

But I know how gimped a 3090 is. So I would want my full monies worth, especially considering they cost $1,800-$2,000+

 

Do you use flux?
The problem was, when I sanded the resistor down to the copper, when I applied flux, the solder didn't stick to the copper at all. And if it ever did stick to the copper, when I applied the new shunt on top and tried to "melt" it, the solder simply went onto the new shunt and completely left the old one!

I had more luck at least --getting-- the solder on the old shunt if I did NOT use flux. But it still wouldn't stay when I put the new shunt on because I put flux on the new shunt underside.
I'm wondering if I should have not used flux at all...but anyway I did manage to finally get a bond....after 10 hours man......

 

Happy Birthday Brother @Mr. Fox !!

 

Thanks, Brother @Johnksss

 

Yes I use flux. I tin the new 5 ohm resistor with solder, and then held it with tweezers over the original resistor. Then I solder one side at a time.

Just make sure you hold really still for the solder to dry for a couple seconds.



It should only take a minute or so. Most of the trouble always comes from holding the tiny resistor, and lining it up properly.

Heck I soldered one on my 2080Ti’s backside while it was still inside my PC.

Sand down your solder iron tip. Make sure it’s clean. lightly tin the new resistor with solder on each side. That should be adequate for soldering it on top of the old resistor. Use extra solder on your soldering tip for proper heat transfer.

I use a little flux on the card, and on the resistors.

 

Your description is a perfect detail of the process that I use. Tinning the new resistor first makes it a lot easier for me. Only need to reflow that solder with a little extra applied on the tip of the iron. And, yes... the hardest part for me is also getting the new resistor lined up nicely with the one underneath and not moving long enough to tack one end in place.

Using plenty of flux makes it easier to flow the solder, but more of a challenge to line up the stacked resistors and keep them in place long enough to tack one end down. What I have found to be helpful is to use two hands at first. Place the resistor using tweezers in one hand, use a small screwdriver in the other hand to help line it up, then apply downward pressure to hold the resistor down, set the tweezers aside, then reach for the soldering iron. I have more luck pinning the resistor where I want it using pressure applied by the screwdriver than I do trying to keep a steady hand holding it in place with tweezers.

 

The problem is on the 3090 FE there is an actual gap between the two shunt edges
So when you put the new shunt on, the only parts making contact are the black middle housings.
The edges are not making contact because on the original shunts, the edges are depressed lower than the middle.
So you get no proper metal to metal contact at all So instead of the solder being a proper bind to attach the metals, it has to be a *gap filler* instead. So when the solder heated up, all of the solder *below* the new shunt you were stacking on simply melted and got 'sucked' onto the new shunt. I don't know if that makes sense...