*Official* NBR Desktop Overclocker's Lounge [laptop owners welcome, too]

Oh I will also be putting a waterblock on this very soon!

I need a matching waterblock, nvlink adapter, and I think that’s all I need.

(2) 2080Ti’s just for fun of course lol. I am not not that enthusiastic about it to be honest. We shall see though.

My current 2080Ti has really good Samsung memory. Unfortunately this evga XC Ultra has some Hynix on it. (it’s not that great from what I have personally experienced)

 

Here are the 3DM Port Royal leaderboard for NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Let the magic happen.

 

Yeah I think benching them together will be super fun. I am going to run both with the Galax 380 watt bios. And the 8 ohm resistors soldered and stacked too. So a 530 watt power ceiling per card.

Based on that chart, (2) 2080Ti’s overclocked properly look super fast!

 

Yeah, it will be a hard task come in beteween top 3

 

I got this kit for two reasons, G.SKILL Trident Z Royal Series 64GB (8 x 8GB) 3600 CL14. First was to test to see if mixing the memory sticks I had before was the reason why I couldn't run 8 sticks (it was) and to get back to 64GBs of RAM I need for video editing. Now I feel like being a bit greedy and see if I can buy two of the G.SKILL Trident Z Royal Series 64GB (4 x 16GB) 3600 CL14 kits and run those. The same problem could pop up again.

I need to send to this 8x8GB kit back anyway, one of the sticks doesn't RGB, lol.

 

You will need to get some acetone (nail polish remover is the cheapest way to get it) and remove all traces of any foreign material like the rubber seal and nail polish already applied. If there's any foreign material whatsoever between the CPU and the die frame you will never get good contact. After getting it spotless and assembling it in the die frame reapply the nail polish at that point over the surface mounted components around the die.

The first time I installed the die frame I did not do that. The thickness of the nail polish between the frame and the CPU was causing contact problems with the water block because the CPU was being pushed down further into the socket due to the nail polish. I could never get the temps under control until I thoroughly cleaned everything off of the CPU and reassembled it. It seems hard to believe that the minimal sickness of the layer of nail polish would cause this, but it absolutely does. The tolerances are super tight and the slightest disruption in geometry will cause a fit problem. Had someone told me this before I figured it out on my own I never would have believed it.

Just a heads up on that to save you the headaches and a lot of wasted time trying to figure out what is wrong. I wish I would have known this when I first went bare die and it would have saved me a major hassle trying to figure out what was wrong LOL. In the end it was user error on my part. After I figured it out, it was smooth sailing going forward.

 

Once I install the die frame, I was honestly considering just running thermal paste.

The 7980XE has a really large die, and with the IHS gone, it seems like the difference between using LM or thermal paste would be negligible right?

 

You will still see at least 5C reduction using liquid metal. If you want your 7980XE to bench @ 5.2-5.3GHz as I did you won't achieve that with normal thermal paste.

 

Did you guys know that the PS5 uses liquid metal on the die? And sony has even incorporated a foam dam around the die for protection against spills?

When I read this, I thought that they stole @Falkentyne idea lol.

Anyways, here’s a picture from sony.

 

ASUS stole the idea as well. I am not sure who thought of it first. Great minds tend to think alike. I thought I was the first to think of it and someone jumped on my YouTube video and added comments suggesting that I stole their idea even though I had never seen it before I thought of it on my own, LOL. I guess it doesn't really matter in the grand scheme of things. It is nice to have validation that it works well enough that ASUS and Sony stole the idea. I'm sure someone that works for each of those companies is taking credit for it being their idea when the truth of the matter is that they probably either saw it in this forum or my YouTube channel.

 

Wasn't it that airline pilot who thought of it first? That guy with that aviator avatar.

 

Yeah, It's nice that the PS5 has liquid metal as thermal paste tends to dry up after a while, and servicing consoles is quite difficult as finding proper documentation can be quite difficult, and they are just shaped weird.

I'm glad Asus has decided to use liquid metal on their high end laptops, but I just don't want them to use it as a coverup for already bad temperatures. I'm willing to bet money that if someone replaced the liquid metal with any kind of paste on a new Asus laptop, that it would throttle a-hell-of-a-lot more often, or even have thermal shutdowns.

 

Yeah I think your right. It is a great technique though. And it could come to mind, when someone needs to keep their components safe against the harms of liquid metal.

I used it on my P751 with a 8086K/GTX1080

I always thought that just packing thermal gel around the die would work really good too. Just a little messy, but it would stay in place I suppose.

 

@Mr. Fox

Hey what type of Optimus Signature V2 do you have?

They offer a perfectly flat cold plate, and the domed cold plate. (I got the domed model)

They said the domed cold plate is designed for direct die usage. And the perfect flat cold plate is designed for a lapped IHS.

I almost bought the flat cold plate model. Then I read that the domed model is for direct die usage, it reaches in to the die frame and makes better contact with the die.

 

That sounds right. But, I had not seen what he posted before the idea occurred to me. Otherwise, I certainly would have credited him with the idea and given a shout-out on my video.

I have the nickel-plated standard (not flat) as recommended for bare die. The only reason the standard cold plate is better is because the z-height of the die is just barely higher than the z-height of the die frame. With a flat cold plate, the chance of having problems with die contact is much greater if the cold plate is resting against the die frame. Being domed helps to avoid that potential.

 

It was a long time ago but from what I remember, you did give him a shout out, but on the forum, because some purists were bashing on him for thinking a foam dam was necessary, and you defended him and said "great minds think alike". He was using some sort of white colored foam and I think it was on an alienware possibly. I do remember it was in some long LM thread.

You then posted pictures showing you trying the mod on your Clevo a week or two later, with differently colored foam.

 

Yup, that sounds right. You have a good memory. That was several years ago.

 

Alright guys, I am ordering a second (Black acetal) ekwb 2080Ti waterblock right now, and some black back plates for both.

Gonna run both 2080Ti’s under watercooling with a (2 slot spacing) Quadro RTX6000/8000 Nvlink adapter. (Found one for a good deal)

I have never ran a watercooled SLI config before..

I will be pushing water through my current (3) 360 rads, my optimus signature v2 cpu block, and (2) 2080Ti waterblocks. So is my single 38 Watt D5 enough?

Should I look in to terminals to connect the GPU’s? Should I add another D5 pump?

PS: I have to run (2) slot nvlink due to space restrictions of the bottom 360MM radiator in my case.

Any advice is very much appreciated everyone!

 

Technically, I think one D5 will be adequate. I would go with at least 2, but I just like going overkill on everything. I have 2 on Banshee and 3 on Wraith. I like overkill and feel a sick sense of security in the redundancy "just in case" I ever need it in a pinch. It would suck having to turn my computer off and wait for a replacement to arrive.

 

Alright, i’m about to fire it up. Der8auer direct die kit just installed, everything went smooth as far as the installation goes. Fingers crossed it all works ok!

 

@Mr. Fox

I just powered it up. Everything seems ok. Although, I am only running triple channel. So I have dropped a memory slot entirely. I am guessing mounting is not good. Or pins are not making perfect contact.

 

Fixed the memory channels. All working so far. But temps are wack lol. Your right. it’s a pain!

 

I cannot tell from the photo if your Optimus block is using the springs under the nuts. If you are then get rid of the springs and only use the nuts. Grab the water block around the fittings in the middle and press firmly straight down try to keep it flat on the die and then spin the nuts down to where they're just barely touching the arms on the water block on all four corners and then go in quarter turn increments criss-cross until it's snug. Yeah, it's definitely a pain in the butt, but so worth it once you have everything just so. It becomes easier to sense when everything is right after you have done it a few times. The first time or two was very frustrating for me

 

Quad channel is working currently. So that’s good, I am not using any springs on my waterblock. But I left the waterlines attached for this whole ordeal of re-mounting the waterblock. And I honestly think I am snugging my waterblock down too hard based on
how you described it

I will remove the block and the lines, and i’m about to go though for my first attempt today at perfect contact.

One thing I am worried about is how the mounting of the actual die frame is?

Should I re-check my die frame mounting too? Can the die frame mount be crooked or uneven? Quad channel is good, so I assume it’s good? I think I tightened it too much the first few times, and this was causing the channels to drop.

The first attempt to tighten the die frame, I lightly tightened in X pattern until any force stopped the mini allen key from freely rotating. Then I light snugged in X pattern over and over, until I couldn’t light snug anymore. (This turned out to be too much) and I only had triple channel.

I love the lights above the memory dimms on the X299 Dark. First time seeing one red lol.

One last thing, I barely have any LM left. So I gotta get this system together today. I am using paste going forward. Anyways, a thin layer of paste is good enough on the die? Or should just do a dot on the die and let the waterblock spread it?

 

This is a really interesting open bench dual-chamber case. It looks like an amazing piece of kit and I really like how it looks. It reminds me of the Thermaltake Core, only better. It seems to incorporate thick billet aluminum plate instead of sheetmetal, and I really like that. Unfortunately, it looks like only supports up to ATX. I don't think it would work with E-ATX. It is not mentioned in the specs and it looks like the rubber grommets for cables to pass through are position too far to the left and an E-ATX board might overhang too much for the cables to have enough clearance. It is sad that they don't make a larger version of it.

https://www.titanrig.com/pc-cases/chassis/raijintek-paean-pc-case-01-10-rj-0112-01-on.html

This one is actually quite large and is a full tower. It appears to be about 4 inches taller than the 5000D and seems to have a very large interior.

https://www.titanrig.com/pc-cases/c...s-evo-window-pc-case-01-10-rj-0113-01-on.html

Both are on sale at Titan Rig and very reasonably priced. In addition to the sale price, there is another 10% off for Memorial Day.

 

It is possible that you are overtightening. You do not need to crank down on the nuts real hard, just snug them up with your fingers evenly and that will be more than enough contact pressure. Overtightening could cause poor fit.

As far as the die frame goes, it could be crooked, but less likely. If you are very certain there is no foreign material like leftover remnants of the black rubber seal that attached the IHS and no leftover layer of nail polish between the CPU and the underside of the die frame causing the CPU to tilt in the socket, it is probably just the block is not sitting level on top of the die. It took me a few tries to figure out which way to tilt my head and which fingers needed to be crossed to get the perfect fit. After I did it was rarely an issue going forward.

As long as coverage is complete, it makes no difference how you apply the thermal compound... line, dot, spread... irrelevant. I find spreading a thin layer across the die or IHS serves me best. I get less waste (no extra squishing out) and better coverage, and less mess to clean up later by spreading a thin layer across the entire surface. Other than that, I don't see any differences in temperatures regardless of the application technique as long as the coverage is complete.

 

I was finally able to get it running right. I did remove the entire die frame again just to double check and make sure no potential foreign debris could be sandwiched between anything. I have finally figured out the technique for tightening the die frame(lightly turn the screws until they require effort in a cross pattern) (then snug each one 1/4 turn in cross pattern) (then snug again 1/2 turn in cross pattern), 2nd install of the die frame resulted in all memory channels to work on the first go. I was able to confirm the CPU was as level as it can get with just a flat piece of metal to lay across the die (top to bottom) and (Side to side). After I got the die frame situated, I used a digital angle finder to determine the angle of the CPU's silicon from (Top to bottom), and (Side to Side) (The Digital Cube Angle finger, gives me numbers to guide my self for what flat means during the block install). Then I installed my TIM on the silicon, and laid the Signature V2 block on the CPU without the fittings installed. Then I used the same digital angle finder to confirm if the CPU water block was sitting the exact angle that the silicon is. While installing the block the angle changes drastically and quickly with each turn of a thumb screw in a cross motion. So I tried my best to maintain that angle until all was nice and snug.

I am using just kryonaut thermal paste. And my hottest cores are roughly 2C lower than before VS the IHS installed previously. But, some cores are 10C cooler which is pretty crazy, and some of the really abnormally cold cores are slightly warmer. The die to die temperatures seems to be pretty good though, and much better than before. I have more liquid metal on the way so I can replace the thermal paste with that. I did have all of the materials to make my own liquid metal, but I have misplaced those items.

 

Awesome bro. I knew you could do it my friend. Nice job!

I love running bare die. Some people are critical of the idea, but they probably have not considered how normal it is based on the fact that ALL laptops are bare die and have been for years. In fact, I can't imagine how hot some of these chintzy pieces of crap would run if they weren't bare die considering that the majority of the pathetic turdbook abortions floating in the modern digital cesspool are already hitting 100°C handling modest workloads

 

I guess it goes to show... nothing is too tacky for gamers, LOL. Where is the Hello Kitty Extreme Edition?

 

Absolutely i’m glad I got
it right! I started building PC’s and overclocking when I was around 12 years old. Back around 2002 era. And all AMD processors were pretty much bare die. Silicon is just tough regardless, I have never crushed or damaged any, but I’ve heard stories of course lol.

Anyways, temps are fantastic right now with just thermal paste. So I can’t wait to get LM on it.

My goal is 4.9Ghz all core daily, (With some AVX offsets for the heavier stuff)

 

Man, this is a really good buy if someone were looking for a decent system with liquid-cooled CPU and GPU with rigid tubing. It would be hard to build this for this price buying components. It even includes a water distribution plate.

https://www.ibuypower.com/Store/Gaming-RDY-Element-CL-Pro

 

Bro, you can buy those pre-bent tubes if you want them in your rig.

 

No I do not. I much prefer the flexible tubing. It's only an observation of the good value in that system. Having pretty good specs and both CPU and GPU being liquid-cooled at that price is really hard to beat. Especially in light of the absolutely absurd prices you would pay for just a 3070 right now you can't hardly build it yourself for that little. That said I do know a lot of people really like the rigid tubing. Add that distribution plate being included in the cost.. that's pretty nuts. Personally I have no use for a distribution plate. The only place I can see where it would have merit is if you care more about looks than utility, and it takes the place of a reservoir. Might be a good space saver in a little chassis like that one. I do think they look nice but they're generally far more expensive than justified by the minimal functionality they provide.

 

It’s a insanely good value. I wish I could buy one my self.

 

That's a pretty good deal compared to ( 3070 that costs the same as the entire computer ) and the fittings/waterblocks/radiators ( gonna assume it's copper but wouldn't know if it is or not ) can be reused for a later project

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Graphics-WINDFORCE-Protection-DisplayPort/dp/B08WJJNT2R

 

That's not a bad price at all, albeit the Ventus line of RTX cards are supposedly the worst out there in Zotac land but still in light of current pricing that's really decent.

 

That is an excellent example of the morbid stupidity of the average consumer and the human race in general. There are people actually stupid enough to pay that much for a mid-range GPU. I find that very sad and disturbing, but we see lots of other examples of that same level of off-the-rails idiocy in other areas of life that carry very dire consequences for everyone, whether they are an idiot or an innocent victim possessing common sense and ordinary intelligence.

 

If the distro plate is also from bitspower, it's probably using a D5 as well so you get a nice pump to take apart for future use too.

 

What is y’all’s opinion on the 6800XT/6900XT liquid devil?

There is one on ebay ending in a few hours around $1,825 so far (6800XT Liquid devil)
crazy I know... But it’s cool gpu. I would overclock it to death of course.

I’m all over the place.

 

I think it may have a pump incorporated in to the cpu block. I see (8) screws on the block alone.

Probably not a d5 due to cost.


I have seen a similar cpu block on ali express that contained a 8-10 watt cpu pump inside. It looks similar to the block on the Ibuypower system.

But I may be mistaken.

Regardless, this system is insane for the money!

 

I honestly don't think a person could go wrong by purchasing it for the parts alone.

I can't comment about them other than anecdotal personal bias. I stopped buying AMD stuff a number of years ago because it was all unreliable garbage that performed poorly compared to Intel and NVIDIA. I have limited interest in their products today. I find forgiving people I care about easier than should be, but I seldom extend forgiveness to organizations or businesses once they have breached my trust and confidence. I know they have improved, but their products still suck at overclocking and their Agesa firmware is trash. That said, if I were going to roll the dice on a Radeon, I'd hold out for the 6900XT. Even if I were an AMD fanboy, there's no way in hell I would pay that much for a second-fiddle GPU. That's a poorer value than what I paid for the 3090 K|NGP|N and I doubt/hope I will ever make that kind of financial mistake again. Fantastic GPU and I love it more than any other GPU I have owned before, but it was an extremely poor value and a regrettable demonstration of poor judgment in spite of my fondness of it. I can afford it and had the cash to cover the cost, but still... stupid. It will be obsolete long before the pleasure of owning it yields dividends sufficient to justify the price.

 

I keep an eye out for the 6900XT and then remind myself its not a good miner so then I loop back at the 3080 and continue my tailspin into oblivion

 

https://ark.intel.com/content/www/u...900kb-processor-24m-cache-up-to-4-90-ghz.html

Has to be an error.

https://videocardz.com/newz/intel-q...r-lake-desktop-cpus-including-core-i9-11900kb

 

Brother @tps3443 you should just hang onto the money and enjoy what you have now. You already have a very powerful system and GPUs pricing is so totally effed up right now that NOTHING is worth buying no matter what it is. People wanting new tech so bad that they are willing to pay twice (or more) than MSRP is only feeding the trolls and exacerbating the problem. If you just can't live without one, buy a pre-built, take the GPU from it and sell it with your 2080 Ti install to recoup part of the loss. You won't come out ahead, but you will minimize the loss compared to buying a GPU.

 

If it is really a 65W CPU I don't see how it can be worth a damn. That's BGA turdbook fodder.

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/compare.html?productIds=212325,215570

 

Ya I think this thing is going to BGA desktops or something similar. Odd that they call it 'desktop' when it's really a mobile chip.

 

Icelake/Rocketlake caps out around ~3866/4000mhz gear1 ( they are advertised as 32GB 3733mhz max support + 133/266/400mhz possible )?
Tigerlake is advertised as being able to support 32GB 4266mhz, so at least some should be able to go a bit further? Is there memory overclocking? Do these products get desktop ram or crippled by sodimms?

 

Intel updated it. It's actually a mobile part.

 

Update 28/05/2021 11:13 am PT: Intel has updated the product pages for the Tiger Lake B-series processors to confirm that they are indeed desktop processors. We've amended the article to reflect the change.
https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-tiger-lake-b-series-65w-cpus-very-high-clocks

It's unknown what Intel's intentions are for the Tiger Lake B-series lineup. Given the 65W TDP, it's reasonable to think that Intel launched the new processors to compete with AMD's Ryzen 5000G (codename Cezanne) desktop APUs that will eventually make their way to the DIY market.

 

Desktop BGA /retch