*Official* NBR Desktop Overclocker's Lounge [laptop owners welcome, too]

That IMC and gear clock ratio went over my head. haha...

I got your point. There is a high chance I will face the same issue but it will be way too late just like my AW BGA hardware and firmware which is acting erratic nowadays.

The next problem with custom ARM/x86 is lack of foundries besides Samsung and TSMC. With many going the way of custom ARM chips for better energy efficiency and trying to beat Apple A or M1 series chips.
I will cut my own potatoes to make some wafers out of it because any CPU or in general a compute are out of stock in a instant or has heavy pricing to force users to buy at whatever prices OEM sets/fixes.

 

@Mr. Fox Something to watch about Samsung B-Die. I'm going to use this tip.




That kit looks amazing but I don't know if I want to invest in another set of DDR4.....but...those timings are crazy.

I'm going to test the kits I have now and see how fast I can stretch them.

 

Thanks. That is a long video and he likes to ramble. He covers a lot of stuff. Which tweak are you going to try?

---

Finally made time (didn't want to, LOL) to transfer Banshee's guts to the 5000D so I can sell the Neo Qube. With internal radiators the 5000D is also way too small. But, not as small as the Neo Qube. The fans almost touch the VRM heat sink. That's really stupid. No case should be built to such ludicrously tight tolerances. They should have at least a couple of inches to spare in every direction (L/W/H).

I am really pleased with how my cable management turned out this time.

Look at this, how tight. STUPID!

But, everything fit. I will have to incorporate the second pump/res unit later when I have more time to spare. I use a sheet of rigid textured black plastic to close off the area where the intent was to install 3 fans to blow air out the right side panel at front.

 

Sorry for the silly question, but I couldn't find an answer online. Does the Windows Memory Diagnostic tool or Memtest86 test the memory in its current configuration, or does it use a JEDEC default? I'm trying to test the stability of timing/gear changes I'm making so if it's using some default settings then it's pointless. If that's the case, please let me know what is the best way to check for stability after making changes. This is Intel 11th Gen platform. Thanks guys.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

Both test the memory as configured.

 

Awesome, thanks @Mr. Fox!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

Exactly what I figured would happen has. I absolutely love the EVGA Z15 keyboard and wish I had purchased two. It's no longer available for $50 and there's no way in hell I'm paying the normal price for it.

Everything about it is rock solid. The build quality is excellent. The lighting retains my settings with no software running in the background. The key action fits my preference to a tee. It has a nice tactile feel and the amount of sound generated from using it lets you know it's mechanical without being unreasonably loud or distracting. I feel confident in saying that it's my all-time favorite keyboard and the best out of all that I have owned.

It was a great buy and I hope I can get another one on sale soon for the same price. It'll be bye-bye Logitech keyboard if I can.

 

We absolutely love the look, feel and feedback. EVGA does it right retaining their settings with no software running. I even use their X17 mouse as my primary too now. I missed the Newegg sale to buy a couple backups. I figure this is EVGA's apology tour for their X5 mouse which was notorious for having defective scroll wheels. Both of mine have it. I'll end up sending them in and maybe they'll send me back some X17s.

 

It's not too late. I just ordered my second Z15 for $50. Buh-bye Logitech.

https://www.newegg.com/evga-z15-rgb...SwKn_rgV048M8D2tTVcaAv9dEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Thanks for the feedback And nice that you liked it. 50$ for a very good KB is a great price. I get a unknown brand/low end for that price point here home.

See also... the little bro
New to the EVGA family, the Z12 Gaming Keyboard
By Hilbert Hagedoorn on: 09/03/2021 08:36 AM

IP32 spill-resistant, anti-spill gaming keyboard with the Z12 Gaming Keyboard, the EVGA's entry-level keyboard. The Z12 is an introduction to EVGA's Z-Series keyboards with its 5-zone RGB, dedicated media keys, macro keys, and Cherry stem compatible keycaps.

Read more

$25 usd on Amazon and Newegg

 

They had the X17 mouse for $29.99 and by the time I clicked they were gone. I've really grown to like the X17 as much as the Z20. They do have the X20 Wireless / Wired (BT & 2.4) for $59.99.

Edit: Only clicky Z15 for $49.99. Linear are out of stock at that price.

 

Sorry to go off track but I just wanted to mention:

I just used an Acer Aspire 7738G from way back lol, this thing has insane performance for it’s time, something I wouldn’t have expected from Acer considering their horrible laptops now. No throttling, no cancerous firmware just plain and simple performance, 17.3 screen that gets to 120hz, lvds ftw lol and an mxm 3.1 slot and solid build quality too, I’m sure this was a couple of $$$ back in the day…

I’d love to put a 980m in this beast and even the Core 2 duo T6600 doesn’t feel slow. Man what has happened to Acer they used to make some pretty decent laptops, the 8940G and now this, wow I need to check out some more old laptops lol

 

The entire industry went down the toilet. You could replace the name Acer with any other and the question would be the same.

https://www.gamestop.com/gaming-acc...iHRrIHRxVJ6DRkgKwr4aAouXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

This reads like a glorified standard keyboard?

 

Yep nothing special but I expect the price point for what you'll get is ok. The price for the Z12 is equal 216.50 Norwegian and this similar KB below is what you get for a 35% higher price point here home ($34.51).

Tastatur som er holdbart og tåler en vannskvett = Keyboard that is durable and can withstand a splash of water.

Edit. Or this at the same +35% premium https://www.elkjop.no/product/gaming/gamingtastatur/42468/adx-a01-gamingtastatur

 

I am looking at the X20 but the Logitech Superlight X Pro has spoiled me. Whether is it competitive shooters or just using it for simple computing tasks, it is difficult for me to use anything else. I did pick up some of the EVGA keyboards for client builds, however.

 

Someday I wish I can justify the Leopold FC980C White Dye sub

 

Thanks for saying that. I did not notice that it said "clicky" so I canceled the order. I want exactly what I already have for $50. So, it looks like the G512 is getting a temporary stay of execution.

 

That's a thing of beauty right there. Makes me excited to get a desktop one day and really be able to push the limits. It will be interesting to see what Intel and AMD can do with their next big platforms and which system you will decide to go with when the time comes.
Nothing necessarily new here, but this article seemed to go a little deeper than the other Intel road maps write-ups I have read thus far.
https://wccftech.com/intel-process-node-roadmap-new-naming-scheme-intel-7-4-3-20a-beyond-2024/

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

Ok so just posting for posterity and for the sake of anyone Google searching MSI GE76 i7-11800H Crucial Ballistix 3200Mhz stability. So I tried everything I knew how to do (which is admittedly not a whole lot) to get the RAM to run at its XMP profile default with CL16 without getting errors. This included raising VCCIO/VCCSA, switching to 2T, messing with all the memory training options in the BIOS etc. So I upped CL to 17 and boom, zero issues with several hours of stability testing. This was in the default Gear2 and so I figured I would try Gear1 to try to make up whatever I had lost by upping the CL. To my surprise, also no errors whatsoever. So at this point, and with my limited knowledge on what else I could do to increase speed/timing while maintaining stability, I will leave as is. I am happy with my new 64GB RAM kit and equally importantly, I learned alot in the last few weeks. Thank you to everyone who helped!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

Lol ok I get it, you can tighten your timings like it's a cake walk. Geeze that's a jump from default. Have you played around with increasing the speeds? I hear you can get to 5200.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

I have had it to 4400 but overclocking AMD, especially memory, is a major hassle compared to Intel and the return on the investment of time is much smaller. I am making very minor changes in small increments so I don't lose track and introduce instability. The slightest thing, like going from 48.5GHz to 49.0GHz can take you from stable to unusable.

https://hwbot.org/submission/4812441_mr._fox_wprime___32m_ryzen_9_5950x_1sec_513ms/

 

A small review of the EVGA Z15 of my very limited time (more on below)

Keyboard Quality - The packaging is quite good for the board, they have the usual sleeve bag then the nice box and a black box inside, I think Z20 has even a hard plastic shell covering on the keyboard inside that black box, that is even better for more protection. Metallic plate frame is made of AL as it has that brushed feel and black finish, slight gloss also it's not thick just a very thin sheet. It even has the chamfered edge around the metal frame which feels premium and nice to touch and how light reacts to that. Scroll Wheel is made up of Metal as well which is neat and has small grooves which are not harsh and feel great. The magnetic wrist rest is pretty good quality, it simple but smooth and effective it's definitely recommended to use. Cable is also fairly good, braided and has a velcro type cinch to reduce the clutter. Keycaps are ABS but at this price point it's a no brainer and since it uses standard layout you can change them at will .For keycaps remover I would recommend using a wire the included one will scratch the keycaps and it's not much efficient either. There are 2 angle adjustments to the Keyboard, which is neat and they have big feet too which is good for stability.

Keys / Switches - As a complete noob at this stuff, the Kailh speed silver are pretty superb, very fast. I think these are just like Cherry MX Silvers literally same. Probably Cherry's are made in Germany and Kailh are made in China. They are very quick, even if you press just around 30-50% of the total travel it will register. So there's an option to install O-rings I think this is a common mod that many do to reduce the sound, since these are Linear so no Click sounds. Also the included Kailh Brown have the signature click sound felt it was not for me as I got accustomed to the usual membrane keyboards of Alienware M15x Floating keys, later my AW17 R1 now a dumb M$ membrane so the Linear feels better. I tried to replace one switch and tried it. Also keycap pulling was pretty easy still need to be careful in doing so, esp the puller which is basic included one. The media keys are a nice addition to the keyboard as well they are obviously not mech keys but normal button switches, they are quick no mushiness and are pretty good. Caps lock, Scroll, Lock, Gaming mode, Num lock indicators are neatly above the arrow keys as well which is good. The key presses feel very clean and nice.

Played DOOM Eternal on Nightmare Master Level Cultist Base and found out my keyboard presses are more precise and I was not making any mishaps in the gameplay, that game rewards skill so you have to press 20 keys (including the Mouse 5 buttons) to switch all weapons and play at full Adrenalin levels, so these type of keyboards are a massive improvement over the membranes no doubt. Typing is also pretty good and clean experience. Although I think the Mech KB reviewers probably do not like Linear switches for typing not sure why, probably that click feedback is needed for them.

Extra features / RGB - EVGA Unleash is very limited many say this, that's true but its okay, not bad at all. The presets are total 9 and by pressing Fn key and your profile it does the job very well and fast. Unleashed software helps in creating your personal profiles, they have some lighting presets like usual fare also the lights on and off can be created for WASD, Numbers and F keys, Arrow keys, Full keyboard. They also have a layer option, I did not get how to create per key custom lighting option, not sure if that is even possible for eg - WASD, Q, E, L-Ctrl, L-Shift, L-Alt with Numbers would be my ideal gaming light up and give them a Red light vs rest of the keyboard having all White color, I couldn't figure it out with Layers. Speaking of RGB the lighting brightness is pretty neat, fully customizable with your profile or without as well it's also very fast in those different RGB modes and you can change the speed as well. Game mode, which disables the keys is a good option for those who want to disable a few set of keys, total 4 or 5 could be disabled, with one press of a Key gets you that and you can add them to the profiles as well. Onboard storage is there for 9 profiles so uninstalling the software is an option. N-Key rollover and other options exist, I didn't try the 4000Hz polling rate unfortunately should have give it a shot but I think it needs some more time to evaluate how much of an improvement it will offer over the default 1000Hz option plus it also shows a warning / information tooltip saying that needs enhanced mode for the games, I think Overwatch has that not sure how other games react.

Downsides - The media keys are lower to the numpad so you cannot see them at all, they have good light up but that's a small thing to note. The keycaps have slight rattle even though there are dual stabilizers for Enter, Shift, Space Bar. Switches pulling is a bit awkward, if you press them hard it will destroy the PCB and if you press it uneven they won't be sitting properly. Not sure if this is my inexperience with this kind of stuff or it's supposed to be like that. There's a slight flex to the keyboard but you can only do it intentionally to make it flex otherwise with gaming or typing it won't occur, With the adjustable feet you may feel a slight flex when you really press hard. Apparently this exists with even Corsair K70 and other boards (maybe it's common which have this metal top plate and plastic shell ? idk) The EVGA logo is too massive, it's made of metal but it rests on plastic unfortunately. Tbh it's really having no use sitting there. They should have removed it entirely and give it a super clean look, maybe get the logo else where, probably on the side or such.

Overall it is a good keyboard for the cheap price tag to dabble one into this mechkeyboard stuff. Esp the features and quality are superb for the price point, I would not pay retail price for this KB. I think there are more aspects to the MechKBs like chassis sound and all that with foams, lubrication and stuff which I clearly have zero experience with.

Newegg disaster, the box was totally crushed on all sides, barely holding it with a tape where I can see through the keyboard box, the outer box of Z15 took a beating on the middle and corner, the middle part where evga logo sits probably took the damage and since the metal and plastic are together there it creates a nasty creak. The box was squished hard which caused the keys to rip and form grooves inside the black box. Wtf is this shipping, I do not know if it's UPS or Newegg who did it and I did a return on this KB.

 

That's only at 1.5v on the RAM?

When I do 4.8 at 1.4v, R20 soft crashes on me. That's with CCD 1 at 4.8 and CCD 2 at 4.750. I am currently tweaking the RAM timings on mine.

 

EVGA Z12 Gaming Keyboard, X20 And X15 Mice Review: Value-Priced Arsenal hothardware.com

As for the EVGA Z12 keyboard, it's also a reasonably priced product that offers a quality user experience, making this a great entry-level gaming keyboard in our opinion, that won't break the bank. Furthermore, with up to a three year warranty across the board, it is clear that EVGA stands behind the quality of their products.

Thanks.

 

Yes it is. I am using the 16GB Samsung B-die kit I took out of Banshee. I put the 32GB G.Skill kit in it. It seems 5950X handles single rank 8GB sticks better. My Z490 systems both saw an improvement in overclocking performance with the G.Skill 32GB dual rank B-die kit, which is the exact opposite.

I think I am going to return the Ballistix Max 4400 kit. It is slightly better, but very expensive and not enough improvement to justify it. Only 2-4ns better on latency and no meaningful difference in benchmark scores. Read speed improved a lot, but not write, copy or latency.

 

If someone were to ship you the Z15 as a gift, would that still incur a tax penalty?

 

That seems like the functional limit of 5950X. I can eek out 49x CCD1 and 48x CCD2 on very cold water. If I try to push it harder the system just turns off. I have gone up to 1.600V on core voltage and it does change anything. And, the benchmark scores are not necessarily better with that extra 100MHz. I think is it too close to the edge.

Edit: @Rage Set - in case it is of any value... about 6 hours of toil. This is the Patriot 2*8GB single rang B-die kit.

 

Hi This is what I can see from the official Norwegian page regarding gift... https://www.toll.no/en/goods/gifts/

Gifts
If you are going to purchase gifts online from abroad or receive gifts from family and friends abroad, you will find information about Customs regulations for this here.

You may receive a gift shipment free from duties and taxes provided the value is NOK 1 000 or less and provided the shipment is sent from a private individual residing abroad to you as a private individual in Norway. However, there may be some restrictions or a ban on some types of goods being sent as gifts, and you can read more about this further down.

If you order gifts from abroad and they are sent directly from the online shop to the person you wish to give the gift to in Norway, the shipment will be Customs cleared as normal and the receiver will be charged import duties and taxes. The same applies if you order gifts from abroad and have them sent to yourself. Then you will be charged import duties and taxes.

If you receive a gift shipment containing gifts for several family members, you do not pay import duties or taxes provided the value of the gift to each individual family member is NOK 1 000 or less. This means that as an example, if your family consists of five members, a gift shipment may have a value of NOK 5 000 and you will not pay any import charges provided the gifts are marked to the different family members and the value of the gift to each individual is NOK 1 000 or less. The sender must clearly mark this both on the outside of the shipment and in the transport documents.

Gifts to be sent abroad

If you intend to send a gift to someone abroad, please be aware that different countries have different rules and regulations for gifts shipments. You should contact the Customs authorities in the country you intend to send the gift to for information about rules and regulations for receiving a gift shipment from Norway.

 

And, just to be clear. I am going to try to go tighter when I have more time. The returns are diminishing at this point and I am totally burned out getting to this point. But, this is 100% stable. No WHEA errors and no TM5 errors. This temps are the CPU-Z benchmark without the chiller running... ambient water.

 

Unlike Intel, it kind of seems that AMD overclocks more stable with adaptive voltage. Maybe this is because with fixed voltage the temperatures are insanely high (both idle and load). I figured out how to use adaptive voltage in an ideal manner to prevent voltage dropping lower than I want it to and removing all of the guesswork (rather than going with a BIOS default + offset approach).

You set the bottom end on the menu where the CCX voltage and core ratios are input, then on the main menu add the offset. So, in this example, 1.275V + 0.125 = 1.400V.

 

Not interested, at all. Thanks for Sharing though

 

When applying liquid metal, what is the best tape to use to cover the contacts near a CPU die?

 

Either Kapton tape or Super 33+. You could also use nail polish, but I prefer using tape.

 

@Clamibot even ordinary Scotch tape works. I used it for the first few delids and it never fell off and it's appearance never changed. Kapton tape is ideal.

 

Thanks for the suggestions! @Mr. Fox @Tenoroon

I was on the fence as to whether I should go buy some electrical tape or just use regular scotch tape. Since scotch tape works, I'll just go ahead and use that since I already have some. I doubt the temperature will ever get high enough to melt the tape since scotch tape should be good up to 350°F, which is about 177°C, significantly higher than any CPU will be allowed to reach.

 

Yes if all you need is about a 1/8 inch square to cover those gold dots, buyjng a roll of Kapton tape is not exactly cost-effective.

 

Since I use it for other things (especially soldered joints and points), I use it on CPUs too for delidding and protecting the conductive points on the chip:

 

Yep, I used Conformal coating and then Kapton tape. For myself, I can't see taking unnecessary risk while using LM when so much is at stake.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

I finally ordered one of the Primochill Wetbenches. They’re never going to re-stock the color black apparently lol. So white it is! They made the choice really tough with all these options.

I went ahead and purchased the SX Full/Complete model.

Primochill had a Labor Day sale, and offered 15% off a $250 dollar order, and free shipping, this was a perfect excuse to go for the best model they had at $289.99. I have been waiting for 1-2 months for them to get the black color back in-stock. And I just gave up. (You can literally select any of their models right now, and they do not have a single version available in black)

One thing cool though, being it is the complete version, is that it includes both side pieces in the box, so it can be the angled model or the flat model (Because I couldn’t decide which I liked better) It also has both wings for mounting a radiator on the left or right side. In my situation it’ll be a alphacool 1080x45 radiator on each side. I also really like to point fans at the back of my 3090 Kingpin HC, so this thing makes a lot of sense!

Yes my computer will actually have wings. It’s gonna be pretty dang wide with a 1080mm radiator on the left wing, and a 1080mm radiator on the right wing.

 

The reason why they can't keep black in stock is because it is the most popular. Even though I prefer black, in my situation white could make the dust problems less obvious than black. What they should do is produce one that is dust-colored, LOL. As you can see, I couldn't resist going back to my Wetbench. You will love it. The convenience makes using a case an unattractive prospect for me regardless of how pretty and fancy the case might me.

 

They just shipped it. Ready to
Get this mess off my desk.

 

You're about to experience true freedom. An open bench has some limitations (the smaller they are, the more restrictions they have... just like an enclosed case) but they afford you a level of flexibility and configuration that nobody that has only used an enclosed case can understand.

I highly recommend installing the PSU backwards, with the power switch and power cord at the front of the case. Then all of the wiring is in back. It is not only aesthetically better, but having the PSU power switch in front is about as convenient as it gets.

I also recommend that you use ordinary (steel or stainless steel) machine screws for things like the PSU mounting brackets. The nylon screws they provide for things like the HDD/SSD mounting are perfect for that, but the PSU has a tendency to slide around using the nylon screws. (If you overtighten them they will snap off.)

 

Yeah I really love that. I have always wanted a test bench. But they are pretty expensive so I held off for a long time. But now that I run large external radiators there isn’t a 2nd thought on it. And I just can’t use a traditional case anyways.


The computer space has become so popular that someone really needs to revisit our case size standard. All we have is a gazillion case options that accept 2 or maybe 3 360MM to 480MM radiators. And most cannot fit that radiator size simultaneously.

They need to make cases that can hold larger radiators. And until they do, I am going to use a test bench. Because I can for whatever on this thing.

 

Well, I guess I will find out just how clicky the clicky Z15 is. They did not process my cancellation. It will probably be fine. If it is distracting for others during teleconferences, but otherwise the same, I will use the linear-keyed unit on the work computer and the clicky one on my benching rig. Noise like that doesn't bother me when I am the one making it, just trying to be sensitive to the impact it has to listeners, etc.

 

Something crazy is going on with my system.

I went to turn on my PC, and nothing was happening, just a dead duck. So after fiddling around with it for a while, I saw my bios switch was resting in (Neutral) between two bios modes 1,and 2, (Not sure how this happen). So I flipped over to my normal bios, and it just shows a C0 on the debug. Although the letter C is cut much shorter like it’s a glitchy looking letter C. So I reset the bios a few times, and the same thing continues on happening. So I moved on and tried another bios, and I get code 7F, no go on this one either reset bios and rinse and repeat still 7F. I managed to get one bios to work which was bios version 0.00, however once I load in to the bios it displays my GPU at a different PCI-e config on every boot. 16X, then 8X, then 2X. And when I eventually just F10+save to configure my boot settings, I hit F10 + restart, once it goes to repost I get stuck on B3 memory training, it’ll sit there and eventually restart only to load back in on Bios 0.00 and then B3 all over again.


I have tried all three bios with one stick of memory and I get code 55 (No memory) I have also tried another set of memory. (The same memory) and it just does the C0,7F,B3 thing.

I think I have corrupted my bios. I’m not sure how either. I could have done this.

Now every bios switch 1,2,3 all say code 00.


Everything was good all day. PC just didn’t power on. Flipped over to a different bios, and everything slowly went down hill very very quickly on each bios. It was as if each bios was getting worse and worse until now, they all say 00.


I am going to download, and load a bios on a USB flash drive, and try to fix these bios through the motherboard updating feature.

Anyways, been messing with it too long. I’m off to bed now.

 

"Now Riot is beginning to enforce a demand for TPM on PCs running Windows 11 and trying to play Valorant. As TPM is a Windows 11 requirement anyway this makes complete sense to some, and is a sign of overarching dystopian corporate madness to others."

https://www.pcgamer.com/amp/valoran...g-windows-tpm-to-perma-ban-cheaters-hardware/

This is going next level in regards to banning machines for gaming. I've never cheated and I despise cheaters in game (WoW is loaded with bots and other funky garbage) but I don't know if I'm anywhere near onboard with this....

 

Well.....

At least we'll get to see (hear?) the difference between both models.

You get to be the guinea pig (again!) @Mr. Fox !