*Official* NBR Desktop Overclocker's Lounge [laptop owners welcome, too]

Well, looks like we all have a good 12-14 months after 3090Ti launches before 5nm TSMC Lovelace is supposed to come around.

 

Well... sometime after 3090 driver support was released, I began to observe that my 2000W vBIOS throws BSOD when I max out the power limits on my 2080 Ti. At first I thought maybe my 2080 Ti was dying. But, I discovered that if I use a driver version BEFORE the release of 3090, no BSOD when I max it out at 2000W. Hope is always a good thing to have, but sometimes you have to admit that there are dark forces that play dirty. The Green Goblin always plays dirty.

 

Well this seems like progress: https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-alder-lake-nuc-lga-socket

The new Intel NUCs with 12th gen Alder Lake CPUs are rumored to have LGA sockets. Let's hope their motherboards aren't crippled by shady firmware updates.

 

Guys this “Intel Maximizer software is going hardcore”

Not bad at all for an Auto OC!!

Intel’s own software deemed it so! This test is performed outside of windows, and took about 1 hour.

Instead of bothering with SP ratings on if you’ve got a good chip or not, I’d just run this software. It seems accurate. It overclocked my CPU +600Mhz on every core.

4.8Ghz to 5.4Ghz.

 

The big question will be... Can you upgrade to 13th gen Intel processors and can you do whatever you want in bios? I have my doubts. As well can you use an K processor the way it is meant to run?

 

I think my the 7700K was the last desktop CPU we could use in Intel Nucs. I always thought the exterior looked cool. The whole Intel skull/extreme theme styling.

 

We're gonna need to see the SP....

 

I know right, I’m curious my self. It was showing my CPU all the way at 5.6Ghz during testing.

I thought I was gonna run this test, and it comes back with results like “WOW” “We overclocked your CPU to 5.1Ghz” lol.


But, I was thinking for the sake of 12900K’s this software would easily weed out any chips with bad cores. If you had like a SP81/SP89/SP95 it would find the best one of all three, quick and easily.

 

That didn't work well at all for me using the version for 10th Gen. Even EVGA OC Robot will overclock my CPU to 5.2GHz with normal cooling, or 5.3GHz with chilled water, but this software tuning thing maxed out at 5.1GHz. I think there is a glitch with Z590 Dark and 10th Gen relating to adaptive voltage. If I try to set my overclock using adaptive voltage, it ignores the multiplier settings above 5.1GHz. The only way I can get the BIOS to obey the applied core ratio set above 51x per core is to use static voltage. Even if I set the adaptive voltage higher than necessary, it still only runs 5.1GHz max per core.

 

That’s very Interesting, especially for Cometlake. Usually Cometlake runs a good +300Mhz over Rocketlake already. So, I figured it would easily pick up 5.3Ghz for you.


I did a full bios reset before the Intel Performance Maximizer test, I enabled the memory at Gear (1) 4000CL14 with optimized timings applied. Then I ran the test. Fans were still on smart etc. That’s all I changed. And I disabled (Voltage Guardband) I also enabled C-States. Everything else was stock and on auto. Auto cpu voltage, with auto LLC.


The Evga OC Robot applies 5.4Ghz as well. Although, with some voltages way beyond what’s needed for even 5.5Ghz.

The testing seemed like it was going to run 5.5Ghz or even 5.6Ghz, because it went through all 8 test at 5.5Ghz and 5.6Ghz. But it loaded in windows and it was on 5.4Ghz for all cores. I think some cores are possibly boosting higher.

 

Yes, I read the documentation before testing it and had all of the BIOS settings on Auto before starting. I do think it is either the Z590 Dark firmware, or Z590 in general, is not designed to support 10th Gen per se. I think it is compatible, but not ideal, for 10th Gen. I am able to replicate the behavior. Adaptive voltage limits 10700K, 10850K, 10900K and 10900KF to 5.1GHz on the Z590 Dark. It does not matter what the core ratio is set to, the highest clock speed is going to be 5.1GHz if I try to use Adaptive voltage. Only Manual (static) produces the desired outcome. But, I am good with that. I don't really like using Adaptive voltage, and never have.

 

Do you have a Z490 board to retest for comparison? It would be interesting to see what results it spits back versus the Z590.

 

Yes, I have the Strix Z490-H I can test it on. I will probably do that later this week or this weekend. It doesn't have a robust cooling system, so it won't be a clean comparison. If I run Cinebench R23 at 5.1GHz it reaches 95°C on that system. The temps are the same with IHS or bare die, which is interesting. But, I have a new Foundation water block coming for it that may help that. I will test it after I replace the RayStorm block with the Foundation block. I think it will be better. It is supposed to be here on Wednesday.

 

What do you mean by adaptive? I have
Auto / Adaptive / Override

Adaptive sucks for me as well, I only use Auto or override.

I just ran Auto in the testing. Honestly, I think 10th Gen is sufficient on the Z590 Dark. However, 11th Gen is no good on Z490 Dark/Z490 Dark KP. You can’t OC the memory at all. It forces the core to do run 3.5Ghz fixed. It did some CRAZY stuff.

I ran the 10850K on the Z590 Dark, and overal it was a beast at 5.3Ghz. Which, 5.3Ghz on a 10850K is really great honestly. It ran through Realbench, and Cinebench testing with a reasonable 300 watts. Now, it did have that phantom throttle at 5.4Ghz. I think I was able to reliably get like 5,350Mhz out of it for daily.

I will say that every CPU acts different though.

My other 11900k loves bclk overclocking, it just requires it for best results. It can’t reliably post 3800-3867 Gear 1. Or run 5.2Ghz reliably without bclk overclocking. While my newest 11900K hates it lol. It has no idea what to do with it. It just go nuts with bclk overclocking. It loads right up with 4000 Gear 1 with 100 bclk right from a freshly cleared CMOS. And it runs much higher cpu frequencies without bclk overclocking.

Also, try the 75% less VDroop option. It works very well on my current 11900K. I didn’t use this during the OC Maximizer thing, but under normal bios overclocking it works very well. My other 11900K didn’t like this, it preferred 25-50% less Vdroop.

 

"Auto" generally uses Adaptive, but the BIOS decides how much voltage to apply instead of user-customized settings. Adaptive is not fixed (Override/Manual is fixed) voltage. Auto/Adaptive will generally allow the CPU to downclock and lower the voltage when there is no load. The VID may go high, but the core voltage is low. I do use the 75% setting for vdroop at higher clock speeds on the Dark mobo. I use Level 6 or 7 on an ASUS mobo at higher clock speeds.

 

Hello guys !!

I think I have hit some big Silicon Lottery, it's a miracle. I was on the quest to get a PC before the Win7 permanently gets forgotten waiting waiting for a damn too long time since Z390 Dark. Now along with the new E core drama from Intel I think it's the best time to avoid the DDR5 and all the extra shenanigans plus lot of things in life too.. So thanks to you fellas, you induced me that FOMO of SP rating.

Now during the holiday season, I bought a lot of CPUs to bin, my credit card already bled due to this but thanks to Silicon Gods. The first CPU to open went in crazy SP rating that I lost my mind. Started to explain it to my father who doesn't have a clue about the CPU and Silicon Engineering in the first place. I just told CPUs are also like humans and all are different and work differently lol. I got the second one also plugged into the socket just to see if I'm seeing the real SP or not like is the ASUS BIOS not bugged or any. I really did could not believe my eyes. And the second one also turned out to have a solid SP...

I did not install the mobo or anything in a case it's on a small table so there's no heatsink with TIM or anything on the CPU so they hit 90C pretty darn fast even in the BIOS. I used just one stick of G.Skill Trident Z C15 3600 8GB memory, B-Die this kit is 32Gig, total 4 sticks it's F4-3600C15D-16GTZ, bought in 2019 when rumors were saying Samsung B-Die production would be stopped and was thinking to get AMD processor back then...I should have tried XMP for these and I also got a Trident Z Royal Silver Dual Rank B-Die F4-4000C16D-32GTRSA super tight RAM only one above this is that C15 4000MHz @ 1.5v $500 kits again I didn't try them because it's not a Dark or Apex board to clock the XMP at that high without a damn Heatsink on the CPU...I think it was a good choice I didn't try to get XMP to test IMC or I goofed up ?

I held a single Noctua NFA14x25 Chromax Black Swap directly onto the CPU plugged into the CPU fan - I bought a ton of these for case since I do not want my case riddled with RGB rainbows or the mess of RGB or the crappy Corsair iCue or any other bloatware garbage, only pure performance, silent, longevity and for the looks I got the NA-SAVP1 Red Chromax Anti vibration kit.

Now to the meat. Without further ado, got the V/F curve screenshots though. Here are the photos, please excuse the poor photos, I was very quick because I wanted to avoid a thermal shutdown of the processor. And I'm a total noob in the BIOS or any CPU in the desktop. I just only know basic things, no hands on. So please excuse for any lack of testing...

I remember a few things that Cstkl on OCN mentions about China and Vietnam VF Curves are not relatable or something, I think @electrosoft should know more on this.

Mobo is ASUS Maximus XIII Z590 Hero
BIOS version 0902
Build Date 05/18/2021
EC Version MBEC-RKL-0207
LED EC version AULA3-6K75-0207
Cypress PD FW version 0119
ME FW Version 15.0.21.1549
PCH Stepping B1

Spoiler: Intel 10900K - China - Batch - V124H073 - SP113

Spoiler: Intel 10900KF - Vietnam - Batch - X139M383 - SP92

Yeah I also didn't use any monitor too, I have one lying in brand new box. But I do not have space to place it. Thankfully my ever reliable Alienware 17 got that niche HDMI input port which just works without issues, only thing is it has a pop sound, I do not know why it's even coming even after muting the speakers on top of using a USB DAC which should bypass all the laptop Intel HD Audio pipeline.

Let me know what you guys think of those VF curve.
I have a lot more unopened CPUs, but I think I should refrain from opening them I guess. I just did today morning of all this. All opened from their packaging, assembled em quickly and was shocked.

One more thing, I have another 10900KF exact same batch. These are from Amazon. I think Amazon got fresh Vietnam batches. There are other 10900K which are from a different batch too. Just checked again, there's another 10900K from China same batch. So all in all, 2 more brand new unopened from above batches - 10900K V124H073 and 10900KF X139M383.

 

Very very nice. If I were you, I'd quit while I'm ahead and return the others, unless you know for sure you can sell the others.

 

That looks VERY legitimate bro! Just flashback/update BIOS since it is old (right around launch old) and cmos reset to make sure it isn't a false reading and if it sticks and then after Windows install, run some auto runs at 4.9->5.3 and report the watts/Vcore/Temps but so far that is looking most righteous!

5100/5200 curve is a bit high for an SP113 but the 5300 is right in line. I think the numbers *may* adjust a tiny bit after BIOS update.

I would definitely stop opening CPUs *right now* and get your BIOS up to date and potential mc of the SP113 and confirm it is solid.

I hope you didn't overpay for your Hero. I would have sold you my open box next week at cost ($282) versus sending it back after I finish up with these last few chips.

 

Intel teases Core i9-12900KS CPU with boost clock up to 5.5 GHz



Source. Intel

 

5.5 boost, 5.2 all clock with such a variance in pull and heat should make for some pretty righteous bins.

Hopefully Intel will offer them with the mild markup like the 9900k and 9900ks had ($479 vs $513).

 

They are gonna be expensive. 9th Gen was during normal era lol.


Fortunately, Intel can produce inventory. So that’s one good thing going for it


I would think $899-$1,099 and it comes in an extreme box minimum. It may be more like $1,299.

 

If this is Intel's answer to AMD refresh, I suspect it will be $799 ish. They won't price themselves out of contention since with the boost AMD cpus will be right back into contention and this is more a 5.2 all core answer to AMD since I suspect the 5950x refresh will take the lead again over the stock 12900k for all core performance. There isn't much AMD can do to take the single core lead unless they find a way to properly engineer a true single core boost with this refresh and even then that will just help close the gap.

 

Had they really wanted to put the hurt on AMD they would have skipped the stupid E core chiplet nonsense and gone with all P cores installed on one chip along with quad channel, but none of the latency overhead associated with the chiplet stupidity. The only thing saving them right now is clock speed, core count and running high latency in quad channel instead of dual channel.

 

It's all about power effiency, E-cores and highest possible single threaded performance. Add better iGPU performance and everything is complete.


CPU Year In Review 2021: Efficient Cores Are The New Bling anandtech.com

 

My "crappy" 12900k can already do 5.3 all core. It may take higher voltage but it can do it. I need to see 5.5 all core for me to jump.

 

So, what you are saying is cold pee-pee is the new hot poo-poo. Their priorities are all jacked up.

In other words, what these idiots are saying is kind of like this... My V-8 engine produces 50 HP per cylinder. I only care about one cylinder. What the other 7 are capable of when they all work together and the extra 350 HP doesn't matter. Okey-dokey.

 

But from what I saw from the Hwinfo pict. Intel seems to have pushed E-cores from 3.9 and up to 4.0GHz. Or around 2.5% increase in boost as in older times. A must have isn't it?

See above. Yep, it seems they have also have jacked up the boost clocks for the most important cores

 

OMG... I'm so excited. Somebody please stop me before I go nuts and pop a vein.

 

Yep, you need to cool down a bit and wait for the ------Z690 Dark board so you can start tune in those new binned KS baby cores

 

Half of the CPU is awesome. It is unreasonable to expect the other half to be good. Shame on us all for expecting excellence from new tech. What in the world could we have been thinking? That is just so mean and naughty of us.

 

Be happy you don't have to pop in an Cpu with more E-cores than P-cores as for Intel's coming unlocked laptop Jokebook chips

Btw. Intel saw the need for the E-cores in their top end SKU's to stop the galopping power consumption/and come on par in performance with AMD's 2 years old Ryzen chips. But scrapped e-cores for almost 80% of their product stack due no need if the chips have castrated TDP. Be happy you get more than the P-cores, bro Fox. You get much more than you hoped for, HaHa




https://videocardz.com/newz/specs-p...f-intel-12th-gen-core-65w-desktop-cpus-leaked

 

?????????

Intel had the perfectly opportunity to brand their Pentiums and Celerons as "quad-cores," if they just used 1 cluster of 4 E-cores. It probably would have performed similar to the 2 P-cores and would probably cut costs down as the die size of a cluster of E-cores is smaller than 2 P-cores. Hell, I rarely see anyone besides OEM's using Pentiums and Celerons, if Intel gave one or both of them 4 E-cores, they might actually see more builders like us buying them.

 

Good suggestion, thank you. I think that'd be best course of action.

Thank you. That was a real good idea, I did the update of BIOS using FlashBack option to 1202 latest BIOS (there was a 1070 in between, which I skipped). Also just now a few mins back I was searching on OCN someone got a 113 chip and after BIOS the SP rating vanished to 50 and voltage got massively increased. That post is in 2020 when it was on Z490 and this is in 2021 with Z590, so a lot but still that would smash all the excitement to ashes for sure. Also that guy did not post what Falkentyne was asking him to do, but anyways his VID was completely changed.

Thankfully the chip retained the SP rating however the cooler pts got a massive reduction I do not know why and what does that signify, VIDs did not change. Also just like the first BIOS 5.2 and 5.3 VIDs are same again for that 10900K SP113, but on the right pane where it shows the Cache ratio and AVX I think the clock speeds are a bit conservative for a high SP rated processor before and after. Also the difference is in mV between these 2 chips despite having 20 SP rating difference.

Here are the BIOS 1202 photos...

Spoiler: 10900K - China V124H073 - SP113

Spoiler: 10900K - Vietnam X139M383 - SP92

Also there was a need to perform CMOS reset, I did a clear CMOS and also removed the battery from the mobo and plugged it back. Before doing that CMOS reset the SP 10900K had this weird V/F values.

Spoiler

I hope these are looking good. I forgot to mention, upon checking the BIOS versions VIDs for both chips, there's 10-20mV increase. I saw Cstkl1 mention Intel did something on the BIOS side for ATB feature, just found out. Also check this out, this is where I got the knowledge from how the V/F on China V batches and other batches SP math varied, that I was mentioning in morning post..when I was reading on the 12900K a few weeks ago, that crossed me.

As for the mobo, that is a really generous offer. But I'm thinking I will get either Dark or Apex, Hero is having PCH heating issues, the heatsink is very small. The whole shiny part is made of plastic and M.2 Heatsinks are also small.

 

Whew, congrats bro! That is a full on monster bin in every way. The funny part is even the second one you opened was a good bin all on its own but not top tier awesome sauce like that first one.
Looking forward to seeing some CB23 stock runs to get a feel for that beauty 4.9->5.4. That will really seal the deal. That cooler rating is odd. What cooling will you be using?

First @tps3443 with his monster 11900k (SP still pending ) and now you with that beauty of an SP113.

Who's next?

 

With the heat and variance, there is no way they could do more P-cores. This is basically a shrunk RKL heatbox with enough node gains to squeeze on some e-cores to take the crown from AMD for multi-core performance. I would have preferred a 12900ks with 10 P-cores and 6 e-Cores binned. I just skip along YT channels and watch how many 12900k's are thermal throttling even at stock and realize there's just no way they can offer it in a higher P-Core config to the general masses.....maybe time to bring back an extreme edition with higher cooling requirements?

I wouldn't mind seeing more P-Cores at lower frequencies as @Papusan alluded to some days back too.

Somewhere Intel set the goal to beat AMD in multicore and this is what we got.....

True, I suspect the hardcore OCers will be snatching these up and binning them in batches as always. Still, that SP82 I had was definitely performing closer to an SP90 and was much better than that SP89 so in the end it is what you can extract from the silicon.

 

I know of a really good 11900K that runs [email protected] and 4000CL14 Gear (1) for $400 bucks if any one is interested. (Not delidded yet)

He is a member on overclock.net.

his user name is

geriatricpollywog


He was gonna sale it to me, before I had my current 11900K, but backed out because he hadn’t gotten a 12900K yet. Well, he’s had a 12900K for probably a month now. So, he is willing to sale the CPU.


Truly a one of a kind chip, for $400 bucks. I think he tested like 6-7 to find it, I can’t remember.

 

I love processors like this. So much fun. That SP113 will probably run 1.325V at 5.4Ghz load VID through R23.probably 200-230 watts.


Z490 Dark is great with 10th Gen. But, I’m sure the Asus Apex is too. Any of these are a great option.

 

Went outside to see if I could bring my BCLK up, and I did. I could of kept going but it was really, really cold, and my fingers were becoming immobile. Here's some pictures I got.

The highest wattage that my 4710mq hit was around 95 watts at 1.31 volts I also tried beating my CBR15 record, but I couldn't optimize as much as time was a limiting factor, but I did hit 730 again, I didn't take a picture though as its not a big deal.

 

Thanks, that really helps.

Yeah those cooler pts are wierd, I see some SP 60 and 70 also have very high 150+ and SP 100 also...For cooling, I do not want to sound really stupid among enthusiasts. But I will mention anyways, I personally like Air cooling due to longevity and peace of mind, DH15. Still I'm thinking because SP rating gives an edge to push more on a good cooler while DH15 will limit itself at max 5.0-5.2 all core even for a great silicon on heavy load like P95 AVX. Going AIO is the only option I have as open loop is out of question for my skill level right now as I have a lot to learn.. but AIO is where those RGB and other nonsensical bloatware comes into play.

 

Mine was super great until it died and killed my really awesome quality 10900KF in the process. Every time I press the power button on my system with the Strix mobo I clench my butt cheeks and hope it isn't the last. I used to have a random glitch with the Crosshair mobo where it would refuse to power on and throw Q-code 00 until I power-cycled the PSU. On two separate occasions the Strix would not power on with both RAM sticks, the RAM light staying lit until I removed the DIMM on channel B and I found one of the CPU socket pins misaligned. It happened yesterday. I used my 8x magnification SMD soldering headset to find the pin that moved and push it gently back in place using a straightened paper clip. Both times it was a pin on the outside row and it was not something I could spot with the naked eye or using the flashlight reflection trick.

It is hard to enjoy owning something when you worry it is going to suddenly fail and destroy something else in the process.

 

Haha

I remember this happening to ya.. Dang, I guess Asus has been having some trouble lately. Maybe Im grateful for just the little quirks my Z590 Dark has then.

 

Yeah. And, before that my X299 Rampage VI Apex catching on fire when I turned it on. Understandable that I am a little gun shy of their brand, but next to EVGA I think it's probably the only option that is worth a damn. Sadly. I don't like ASsRock, Gigabutt or MicroSore. That doesn't leave much. I don't think an NZXT mobo is worth exploring as an option. I don't know that I have ever seen one with any respectable ranking on HWBOT. They strike me as being a low grade option plastered with fancy plastic covers to hide their PCB. That alone makes me kind of suspicious.

 

At this point I only run AIOs and I keep a DH15 in the closet as a backup. For years, that is all I used after having a Corsair AIO spring a leak years ago and ruin my motherboard and GPU. After that, I switched to a DH14 then the DH15 when it came out. I just recently (less than 2yrs ago) switched back to AIOs starting with an EVGA 280mm then 360mm and now an Arctic Cool LF II 420mm. I've hemmed and hawed with going custom for at least my CPU as a starter but I'm not quite there yet. I've helped my buddy with his Alpha Cool (I think that's what it was?) setup and that was fun learning the ins and outs but I still don't want it for myself even with the ease flexible tubing gives you to a degree so I completely understand.

Arctic Cool AIOs are all non-RGB (albeit they've started offering models with RGB to appease the RGB fans) from their 120mm up to their 420mm. If you can squeeze a 360mm in there, you might like it. I found the EVGA 360mm to be very competent. It, too, is non-RGB and those 2500rpm fans really push some air.

I think if you tried either the EVGA CLC 360mm or AC 360mm you would put your DH15 on the shelf like I did.

 

A custom loop is much easier than you think, and potentially less likely to encounter leakage than an AIO if you are using quality flexible tubing and compression fittings. If you cut the ends of the tubing square and securely tighten the compression nut, you can't pull the tubing out of the fitting no matter how hard you tug on the lines. A flexible tubing cutter makes easy work out of cutting the ends square so that the cut end is seated firmly into the base of the compression fitting barb. That is not true of rigid tubing, as it can slip out of the fitting without too much effort, and it can be cracked if you handle it roughly. I say rigid tubing should be avoided if convenience is more important than aesthetics. I have never done a build with rigid tubing and have no plans to ever do one because I value the convenience more than the fancy look.

The only mistakes I have ever made on a custom loop is cutting the tubing too short and having to cut a new piece. If you start with the longest runs, if you accidentally cut a piece too short, then you can cut it again to use it somewhere else in the loop rather than have it go to waste.

But, a good AIO is a fine place to dip your toe into the water. You can run into some installation restrictions because you have no control over the length of the AIO tubing. In a large case, the tubing can be too short, which is much harder to contend with than tubing that is longer than it needs to be. So pay attention to how long the lines are when buying an AIO. If they are too short it really is a pain to deal with and becomes a limiting factor in terms of where you can mount the radiator.

A good AIO will generally be less expensive than a good custom loop. The pumps, reservoirs and fittings can add up to a lot of money very quickly. But, those parts are generally very durable as long as you buy good quality parts. They will last for many years, spanning many builds, while offering lots of flexibility in terms of radiator placement and tubing routing. Cheap rotary fittings should be avoided. If they are poorly made they can pull apart and develop leaks where the threaded G1/4 portion of the fitting rotates inside of the main housing of the fitting. O-rings for G1/4 fittings are very cheap, but I haven't needed to replace any. Pumps can wear out no matter what kind of pump you are talking about, and a good quality D5 is generally going to be more durable and more powerful than an AIO pump that is integrated into the CPU water block. I am not a fan of DDC pumps and would not suggest DDC versus D5. You should be able to find really decent AIOs without RGB and no associated software. There is no need for software for an AIO if you don't have RGB. You can control the fans in the BIOS if they are connected to fan headers on the mobo.

If you are a fan of tiny cases, go with an AIO for sure. As much as I do not care for the water block mounted pumps, the AIO takes up a lot less space. You do not need to find a place for mounting a pump and reservoir with an AIO.

 

This.

And for AIOs I only go with models that are easy to connect directly to the motherboard for fan controls. Arctic Cool is completely integrated into one connection and zero RGB and zero software required. It is my favorite approach for an AIO that also is one of the top rated models out there. Literally one connection to the CPU_FAN header and that's it. Arctic's tend to run a smidge bigger on average and the rads are thicker. My case said it supports a 420mm up top but the Arctic isn't fitting there in no way, shape or form. I ended up front mounting it.

EVGA AIO control software is horrific and I usually just reroute to the motherboard with a three way splitter to CPU_FAN header and pump to CPU_PUMP or any open fan header and set it to max in BIOS. EVGA does have RGB on the block and a USB 2.0 connector that is meant to connect to the motherboard USB 2.0 header for control which I do not use at all except to set the RGB to something I like then disconnect it. They don't try to force you into using their bloatware for control.

Some of the AIOs out there force you into a corner to use their equipment and install their control software. I avoid all of those like the plague. Even my Asus equipment I installed a secondary small M.2 drive and have an install on it JUST to control my lights and devices and such then disable it and reboot into my primary drive. I don't want any of that garbage on my OS or Data drives. I don't even want it it mounted when using my primary OS drive.

 

I will say this, I have never had a leak on my custom loops. And I have never even leak tested them either lol. Ever since I started custom water cooling, it has just snow balled.

For ultimate silence and ultimate temps it is worth it.


Single D5 and single HWLabs GTX 280MM/360/420 will get the job done better than anything else really.

 

What's the status of your chiller?

 

Friday delivery.

 

Will you have everything you need, or are you waiting to see what comes with it first?

 

I will check them out for sure, the idea is neat to have a DH15 as a backup always. Yeah I do not like the RGB bloatware on Mobos, on ASUS it will stay on even if you turn off the PC. The only way is to switch the damn thing off. Z590 DARK got RGB, idk why waste money on that rather put more into the damn Debug LEDs and other things would have been better. I actually bought a lot of Noctuas for case cooling. Gotta see how things turn out.

Thank you brother fox, that is a lot of valuable information to learn also the aspect of the AIO and radiator fitting part is also crucial. I will note them down. I will check what Electrosoft suggested and see how it fares for the non RGB AIO. Corsair is a no go, I do not like their whole commander pro setup cable mess bundled with iCue software on top. EK is a good choice for performance I guess but none of those use Noctua fans unfortunately, I think many people fit Noctuas on radiators too for solid performance. I will have to understand a lot more esp first working on a case.

I'm not a fan of Tiny cases, I really hate them because I'm already fed up on the BS of BGA thin and light small crap these small cases make me hate the DIY even more, too much emphasis on the damn case than the Hardware. Like small case builds need to build around the case not the HW, Optimum Tech Ali got some skills for his Open loops not all can do that plus even then there's no space for a damn HDD. I do not have space and time for meddling with a NAS separate build and certainly do not want to pay huge sum of cash to those Synology and Qnap NAS because they are pile of junk in terms of specs vs cost. For that I can buy an old Xeon processor and build a much better secondary PC.

I mentioned this already but anyways it's on subject, bought Lian Li O11 D XL and returned it because it had poor HDD support from lack of ventilation to just 4 bays which will cook the drives (Esp NAS grade drives, WD Red Pro, WD Gold, Segate Exos). I waited for Corsair 7000D, but their HDD bracket is too loose fitting Gamers Nexus Steve got a video on it he showed how it wobbles the drives if we stack those brackets. It got struck off from my list. Phanteks had solid cases but unfortunately most of them are old designs I think. So I got a mega case, I think it's too big. I will see how it fares. It's Fractal Meshify 2XL. I will probably install a HBA SAS card for SATA expansion down the lane over time and already have 5 NAS drives I do not know but even if I do not do on my main system the case will be useful for a home server or something like that. Meshify 2 is also good but I think it is somewhat smaller side, with max 6 bays only an front cooling is not that great.. Meshify 2 XL got space for 11x120mm fans, I bought 9 of Noctua NFA12x25mm Chromax Black Swap fans for 4x on front and 4x on top and 1 rear.

There's this new fan on the block, Phanteks made a beast but the issue is it's thickness. Thermaltake ripped off Noctua just how Noctua did Gentle Typhoon, however Noctua did a lot of engineering R&D no question and Thermaltake is a scum. Also the third review highlights how T30 has some issue with BIOS Fan control when I first watched, maybe it's fixed now ? I do not know. So I went with safer and reliable option. NFA12x25 Chromax however has some BS in it - Scope of delivery, they added unneccesary extra socket that terminates right near the fan making it cumbersome. The second is not a biggie since I think they want to satisfy all people who like various colors, like they only include 4 anti-vibration pads of each color, we have to buy more. And the third is 30cm extension cable doesn't ship in the box like regular NFA12x25.