*Official* NBR Desktop Overclocker's Lounge [laptop owners welcome, too]

Have you got anything contacting the thermal pads given that the aluminium heatsink was too tall, or are the pads just exposed to the air so to speak? I ask because I think the temperatures of the components would be lower without a thermal pad if there's no heatsink on top of the pads - air would be able to get around those components to cool them better if the pads are not there. If you can't fit a heatsink on top of those pads then probably better without the pads I think.

 

The pad was on there when I first took my factory heatsink off and installed the NZXT. I was thinking the same thing about it being better without it. I figured if MSI put it there, then it must need to be there. I will pull it back off and try without it.

Seems my max temps are about the same with NT-H1, but looks like it ramps up faster than before when using Kryonaut.

 

Here you go @Mr. Fox , who needs a water chiller lol!

And it works surprisingly well!

 

Looks fantastic. Once you get the splitter and have the wires tidy it's going to look amazing. Nice score, too.

Hi bro. Happy Saturday. Set it stock first and reboot. Go back in and set XMP. That should automatically run 3600, automatically set the timings and voltage, etc. If you are trying to run 3600 with settings designed for 2133 it is not going to boot. By manually setting the frequency to 3600, that is what you are trying to force it to do.

 

Was there a flat metal plate contacting the top of those thermal pads (rather than a heatsink so to speak) or was the pad just exposed to air?

 

It was close to the heatsink fins but wasn't touching so yeah, basically just open air.

 

Gotya, ok, strange they did that.

 

This is why I'm using Prolimatech PK-3 in my laptop. Aside from the good thermal conductivity (11.2 W/mK), it's on the higher end of the viscosity scale. So I had to put a little more than usual, especially on the IHS, or else it wouldn't get a good spread after screwing down the heatsink (I was too lazy to spread it manually with the spatula). But IME putting too much paste doesn't negatively affect thermals, the excess just squeezes out the sides (this stuff is non-conductive so no worries there), and it's better than putting too little.

(This is a subjective scale but it should show general trends):

Spoiler

 

Yeah I thought so too. I just did a quick run without it and it might be in my head but I was able to crack the top 100 on Ice Storm extreme (36th) lol! Still cant make it to the top 100 on fire strike though

https://www.3dmark.com/hall-of-fame-2/ice+storm+3dmark+score+extreme+preset/version+1.2/1+gpu

 

Yes, I agree with @Robbo99999 and you should remove the thermal pads if there is no heat sink. You will get better results with the fan blowing air on them, as the thermal pads with no heat sink act more like a blanket than a wick.

 

I will call you in a few hours, bro.

Yes, that's right. Too much is better than not enough. Worst case scenario is you have a little bit of waste.

 

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232621

Incoming tomorrow. RIP IMC?

 

Looks like it can do it with some tweaking.

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/i7-8700k-with-4500mhz-dimm.18802095/

 

Ha, yeah!

Good thread!

 

I should have this by Thursday. I hope I don't regret it, but it seems to be the best value from what I can sift from the plethora of fanboy shill reviews pitting it against the ASUS PG279Q that is a lot more money and not really any better in terms of quality or results.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZXZ3QBD

So, once I get it I will sell my ASUS MG248Q 144Hz 1080p monitor.
https://www.amazon.com/24-inch-FreeSync-MG248Q-Repsonse-DisplayPort/dp/B01F9UC20Q

@D2 Ultima what say you, bro?

 

Thats a really good monitor, i have a PG279Q and the MG279Q. Supposedly the panel is better on the PG version, but i really dont see any difference other than slightly better over clock ability. Which really isnt worth the premium they charge for the PG version.

4k 144hz HDR monitors should be out soon, thats something im going to pick up asap.

 

Same here. Waiting for the 144hz 4K.

 

Great choice. My brother has the 165hz version of that one. I think you’re going to love it. G-Sync year free high refresh rate monitors are beautiful.

@bloodhawk I would love a 4K 144hz panel but initial prices look insane. I think I’ll be waiting a gen or so to get on board. Hopefully by then GPUs will have caught up to the point where 4K 144 FPS gaming is real.

 

The one I purchased is actually 165Hz as well. Why they advertise it as 144Hz is kind of a mystery. Maybe because it runs 144Hz by default unless you tell it to run 165Hz by selecting that as an option in the OSD. But, thanks for the feedback on it. With you and @bloodhawk both saying it is a good choice, I'm not as guarded about buying a piece of crap like I was initially. It will be interesting to see if I find anything to like about G-Sync with it being hardware-based instead of fake G-Stink (software) like a laptop.

 

Its advertised as 144Hz because 165Hz is in the OC mode. And usually OC modes drop the color reproduction a bit along with intruding artifacts in some cases.

And then there is the whole HDMI vs Display port thing.

 

HDMI will not even run at 144Hz, will it? I know it doesn't on my current monitor. I have to use DP for 144Hz.

You know, I do not remember if I ever tested the speed of my SSDs in the desktop. I really never give it a lot of thought. Not even going to test my 2TB and 4TB HDDs because I know it will be disappointing, LOL. But, they don't need to be fast. They're just for "stuff" anyhow.

 

Increased resolution is gonna look better, plus IPS panel is gonna solve viewing angle inconsistencies and I think they reproduce colour better too. IPS is slower than TN though so perhaps you'll see more blurring during fast motion than your previous monitor, and input lag might be slightly higher, but likely not noticeable. Being 1440p it also be harder to drive it to 144Hz, and with a single 1080ti you won't be able to achieve a stable 144fps in all games at max details, which was more likely to happen with your old 1080p monitor. All-in-all I think your new monitor is gonna be a better gaming experience though & certainly a better experience for non-gaming stuff too. Ha, the stand is a bit ugly though, cover it up with papers!

EDIT: oh yeah, the inclusion of G-sync is a massive bonus, which you didn't have on your previous monitor, and you couldn't use the Freesync of your previous because you don't have an AMD card. Even at 144Hz I easily notice if G-sync is not activated. By the way, run your games with 142 fps cap when running a 144Hz G-sync monitor - it results in the lowest input lag, if you let it stabalise at 144Hz panel refresh rate then you get classic V-sync style input lag. Use in game engine fps caps if you can, and as second choice use RTSS frame capping, don't use NVidia Inspector fps capping as it has by far the highest input latency. And following is a link to the resource on Blur Busters where they determined all of this good stuff, be sure to click the "Next" button at the bottom of the pages to go onto the next section of the article:
https://www.blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/

 

I don't know about colour accuracy although mine after Spyder4Pro colour calibration has the same 100% SRGB colour range when comparing 144Hz and 180Hz, but contrast ratio is definitely worse. Contrast ratio drops from 420 to 320 going from 144Hz up to 180Hz on mine - which makes everything look more washed out with less depth. I run mine on 144Hz as a result - 180Hz does feel even more responsive though and in close quarters combat on really fast games like Titanfall it did help me play a fraction better in those same close quarters combat scenarios, but it just looked rubbish, and may have hindered my ability to spot distant enemies because of the washed out nature, and it decreased my enjoyment of it because depth was lacking in the scenes.

 

I came very close to opting for the TN version of the ASUS or Predator 144Hz monitors instead of the IPS due to the TN having 1ms response time. But, every reviewer said no ghosting was present on the ASUS or Predator displays and nobody doing the testing could see a visible difference between the 1ms TN and 4ms IPS panels in terms of ghosting or blurring. They all praised the IPS, and I could actually see an improvement in the videos showing them side by side. I don't really care about viewing angles since I always sit directly in front of my display while using the computer. I mainly wanted more screen real estate, a larger display and 120Hz or higher refresh rate, and don't care for 4K at all (so not something I am waiting for). I love the 1440p 120Hz panel on the P870DM-G for everything I do with it, including gaming. I just hope I do not regret going with IPS over TN. I am hoping the quality is better than the IPS panels I have had on laptops (which I was never impressed with). Color precision is not particularly important to me unless it is really messed up. I know IPS is notorious for backlight bleeding, but unless it is really horrible, that part of IPS never really bothered me much. I have no use for the laptop variety of G-Stink. It's just a minor annoyance having to disable it. I've never recognized any benefit to it in laptop gaming, and I never notice screen tearing unless it is so severe it is ridiculous. However, I am interested in seeing if the hardware G-Sync changes my mind. It will be interesting to find out. Bear in mind, as a form of entertainment I run benchmarks about 500% more than the time I spend playing games. I love playing some games, but I seldom take time for it. When I do, it's usually a binge spree for many hours, then I might not play a game again for several months (or longer). If it is a title I love (like those in the Crysis, CoD or Wolfenstein franchises, or GoW) I may play it through completely from start to finish in one sitting, then not touch it again for six months or a year.

 

Crysis 1 was a favourite game of mine for a long time - I've played it through many, many times, never understood how some reviews called it a poor story or it getting worse once you get inside the mountain - I just thought it was all stellar and fascinating, I've not played it for a few years though.

Well that monitor sounds really good from your reviews you mentioned. Regarding TN, viewing angles & your current monitor, you'll still notice viewing angle inconsistencies even if you sit straight in front of it - noticeably the change in 'colour' from top to bottom of the screen, but you'll only notice this if you have the screen angled up towards you so that you're not looking either down or up at it. The viewing angle test will show this. ( http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/viewing_angle.php) If you look down on your monitor from above you will not notice the colour change accross the screen (but then that's not showing the 'colours' as they're supposed to be seen, that's not an ideal angle to view a monitor - it should be angled directly at you, and it's at those ideal angles ( perpendicular to centre of screen viewing angle) that you notice the difference from top to bottom on a TN screen.

 

@Trafficante

I was reading somewhere that's it really easy to mix up the inflow and outflow on the block. Make sure you have your lines hooked up correctly. I seen a guy fighting this (on OCN I think) and this is what his problem was.

In his case the flow arrows were really small and he had the lines backwards.

Edit...Nevermind, I thought you was running a loop lol!

The AIO pump going bad could be a very good possibility. Or, your cooler isn't fully seated onto the IHS/uneven pressure. I've had this happen before.

LM is very thin and even contact pressure means everything.

 

Other issue to look at, what is the RMP of the AIO pump? If it is in a fan header the RPM should be measurable. make sure it is running at full speed. If not then enough coolant is not making it to the block.

Edit; I should also note now that you have the new Main board you have much heavier VRM's. This means the total clean wattage available to the CPU has increased significantly. This can generate more heat too. Maybe it is time to think about redoing your loop?

 

Congrats on new screen.

Btw. I’m sure you noticed and liked the differences between Win 7 vs. Win 10 Not huge but it’s still there for your likings

 

true, +4% on average!

 

I can remember the days I would give my left orb for a free +4%

 

Using liquid metal between the IHS and water block is not going to have nearly as remarkable of an effect on a liquid cooled desktop as it does with air cooling or on a laptop. I am not surprised that there was no meaningful improvement there. There is no way the thin AIO is going to cool as effectively as the higher capacity custom loop. The radiator is larger in the custom loop and the extra volume of coolant with the reservoir also helps. The fact that the temps are the same with either setup suggests that something else is wrong.

It is easy to get the retainer ring cock-eyed on an AIO cooler. If you have one side or one corner tighter than the others, the water block might not be sitting flat on the IHS. Make sure the teeth are correctly aligned with the notches in the plastic pump housing and water block, hold pressure on the assembly to keep it flat and gradually tighten all four thumb nuts equally as you go, in a criss-cross pattern. You want all four to be tightened in unison to the same degree.

If you haven't already, check for a BIOS update. The earlier versions of the ASUS BIOSes for current generation Z370 motherboards had some issues with voltage not being accurately reported, so it is possible the same is true for your HEDT setup. If you are using an older BIOS, you might be putting more voltage to the CPU that what it appears to be if the readings are erroneous.

I think the shape of the base is actually pretty cool. I like the angular look of it, but I'm not too hip on the red colored accent. In the photos the red accent looks a little bit tacky. I've got some black PlastiKote, so if it bugs me too much I will mask off the rest of it and cover the red accented areas with that. It will look like a factory job when I am done with it, if I do that. I think I am going to swap out my red fan shroud on the RAM cooling fan with the silver one as well. Maybe I would like the red a little better if I were an AMD fanboy, but maybe not. I don't want my stuff to be NVIDIA green either, LOL. Too many bright colors to make the kiddos happy. I like just ordinary black and white the best most of the time. Red and blue are just too ordinary. But, I'd probably go for a eye-watering canary yellow just because it is such a huge departure from the popular mainstream red and blue gamer-boy aesthetic.

Easily... all of the Crysis titles in the franchise are the most playable and re-playable games I have ever owned. I never get tired of any of them. Fascinating is a good way to describe them.

 

Thats why I love this RAM I have coming so much. Black on Black, on slate black. I want a black on black or black on white theme build most of the time. I'm not into the gamer boy or dragon logo BS. I wish more companies did clean look, no logo products.

 

Yup, black with white lights... classy, sophisticated, and bad-ass, all rolled into one. Kind of like the difference between a quiet, deliberate and reserved high-tech professional assassin and an ordinary gangsta street thug with a loud mouth and a bad attitude.

 

Hey Mr. Fox I found your new favourite mouse https://www.pcgamer.com/the-logitec...y-design-to-a-dollar60-wireless-gaming-mouse/

Best sensor and if you use it at 125Hz polling rate it'll last months! Sounds great for you right? =D

 

Yes, i have to agree about that reverse arrow on on the pump, but also if your pump is to strong....Man oh man...more problems. I now have a EK Supremacy block and for the life of me it just would not allow enough water though to cool fast enough. Nor allow the pressure to build fully. So I removed two parts out of the center and now the block is working far better than expected.
When I first tried I use the correct in port and the water just would not flow for anything. I used the out port and presto..it started working. Really weird couple of hours trouble shooting that issue.

 

Yes this could absolutely be the problem as well.

MSI put a bios out for the Gaming Pro Carbon a couple months ago that was causing systems to go over 1.5v on Vcore. They pulled it a few days later and revised it. There were a few guys on the MSI forums screaming about it but I don't think it hurt anything.

 

Project "Why everyone should trash Jokebooks and always buy LGA Notebooks or desktops" continue rolling

 

Would you look at that? We live in the same city and like the same store. Small world sometimes.

Anyhow, congratulations on your purchase!

 

Thanks
But not completely correct (sorry for that - if it was, we could met) I live in middle Norway. Right south of Trondheim (30km). Digital Impuls - Mamoz - Komplett - Datakjeden (data stores who have been in Trondheim) are all removed. We have only one left... Nidaros Data. Take a look on that webpage... A messed up web site who I don't visit anymore after they changed from Digital Impuls. I prefer as you, the same nice shop in Oslo

 

I might be experiencing déjà vu here, but I believe I've seen you post your location before. When I saw the delivery option on your invoice (pick-up on location), I thought I'd been mistaken. Then again, a couple of my invoices have erroneously stated that as well when doing custom orders by email – the staff is very forthcoming and will let you order anything their supplier can get, even if the item's not listed anywhere. I don't know if you've been to the actual store. While it's surprisingly small, they usually have a custom loop rig or two on display, which is cool. They're all about EK.

In any case, no need to apologise as it was I who jumped to conclusions. I thought Nidaros Data and Digital Impuls collaborated, and had the same name in the past? Are they completely separate entities now?

 

No problem And yees. If you ask for somethin special. They will try help as good they can. Not many other shops offer this services. Within upper top 10.

Location:
Where all BGA is Banned

I think they still collaborate a little. But Nidaros Data is own company now (same people/workers bought it I think). I really hate their web site. Ugly and difficult. + they don't have much special. I'm sure if they collaborate more than I think, they wouldn't change to that ugly website

 

I had helped with that AIO on the primary board. I can tell you the stands have direct contact and are not a tension spring setup. They work as well if not better than springs but are much finickier to setup properly for pressure and contact.

LM will not be a vast improvement but done properly it is the best TIM. Also the easiest to screw up as well. He had great idle temps at first with the old board, what he gets now I can't say.

I agree the loop may be a better option, especially now with that beefy VRM. Ambient temps here in NJ have raised significantly as well. Even my normal 30c idle Enermax is now 34c.

 

Looks like my Strix Z370-E board is holding me back. DDR4 4000Mhz CL 17-17-17-37 is the best I can do. Still gave me a significant boost to FPS when checking for CPU bottlenecks at low resolutions. I may have to swap out for a Z390 Maximus when released.

 

It might be the G.SKILL RAM rather than your motherboard. I intentionally went with the Corsair based on being able to run Brother @Johnksss Vengeance LPX 3600 sticks at 4000 in my Maximus X Hero. And, those same sticks he is rocking like 4100 and 4200 with an i9 CPU. When I was shopping and researching, I saw numerous people that complained the G.SKILL Trident would not boot at the advertised speed. It's hard to know if that is due to user inexperience, weak IMC, weak RAM modules or something else. Those that posted reviews on the Corsair Vengeance LPX all said it booted and ran at advertised speeds with no hassles, which seemed to fit right with the good experience using the RAM John purchased.

But, that is still really good speed and nothing to be unhappy about. It's a bummer it won't run at the speed you purchased though. I totally get that part.

 

Hmm that is a fair theory, but these are Samsung B-Die Dimms and my motherboard is rated to 4000Mhz XMP. In fact the QV sheet only shows the Maximus Hero and Apex being able to run 4400Mhz. My brother has the Maximus Hero board on my recommendation (I had mine Day 1 of launch ) after I saw how much better of a board it was and I will test your theory on his board.

 

Tightened up those timings a bit to 16-16-16-38 .

https://imgur.com/a/hDRPx4V

Almost the same timings as my old Corsair Vengeance 3200MHz CL16 kit but now I'm at 4000Mhz.

I love that this RAM has a temp sensor on it and reports to HwInfo64 the dimm temps.

 

Yeah, in general B-die is B-die. Board makes a difference.

If you get into manual settings for timings and speed, you've gone beyond the manufacturer of the RAM a long time ago, unless the sticks are specifically bad somehow.

That being said, the Strix-E sucks get an ASRock Taichi because I just dun like ASUS xD

*cackles evilly like madman*

*goes and eats dinner*

 

But, it seems like most of the winners are using ASUS mobos and EVGA GPUs... mostly. There are always a few exceptions here and there.

I will be the first to admit popularity is generally unimportant and may not be an accurate indication of results, but when the results come from HWBOT, I tend to pay a little more attention to that than what I see and hear from the professional reviewer shill mill. I think this is relevant, considering the people who are buying them. And, yeah... you're right. Strix didn't make the cut.


B-die should be B-die, but if they use a goofed up SPD it might not work right. They have to program the SPD correctly for the B-die (or any other memory) to work well. We have already seen lots of examples where G.SKILL kind of flubbed their dub on that with SO-DIMMs. A stock XMP profile should work. If it won't boot, it doesn't matter to most folks whether it is B-die or not. Most gamer-boys don't not have the guts/knowledge/time/skill/patience to do their own memory tweaking to get the most from their memory. They need plug and play.

@Talon might be able to get his memory to run at rated clock speeds if he can figure out what settings to use if G.SKILL goofed it up. He is already getting much better results using manual settings. But, figuring that out can be a real time-waster. Been there, done that, with the G.SKILL in my laptops and the Ripjaws V DDR4-3200 trash sticks I had in my desktop before. Excellent quality RAM sticks with crappy SPD is a bummer.

 

Dang, I am not too fond of the game, but this looks like it could be a good series to watch.



Edit: hmm, nevermind. Seems that it is fake. A well done fake though.

 

If that's the case how about disabling XMP, manually selecting a frequency and voltage, and then leaving all timings on Auto (except maybe stipulating the Cas Latency) - that way the motherboard gets to decide on timings if the RAM manufacturer messed up their SPD timing compatibility?