*Official* NBR Desktop Overclocker's Lounge [laptop owners welcome, too]

Looking good!

Though one thing i would be worried about the front panel fans being different/running at different rpms than the radiator fans. Sometimes that difference can cause air to get trapped or slow down between the radiator fins, leading to higher temperatures.

 

If you were going to do something like that, then just go buy a wall (Like 50 to 80 bucks on craigslist) unit and take it apart. Put the radiator in the cooler and run your lines from the cooler to your gpu using your in place loop. That ice thing takes a very long time to do (meaning making the ice), plus it really does not last long at all. Right when you get going you would need to keep filling it full of ice.

As to the comments about freezing...Not a chance of that happening with using ice. Ice does not get colder the longer it sits i'm afraid.

As to the block for the P870....You can find a block that actually fits. Then make something for the vrm's behind the cpu because thats where the problems would come in.

 

If the pipes are filled with fluid before freezing. Otherwise, as you said, it wont be a problem unless someone uses LN2 / Helium

 

Maybe I did something wrong then, because when I did that back in like 2008....They never froze and the results were not that great. That's when I bought the chiller.

 

I'm not sure what you mean, "wall" is that a typo?

Yes, the cooper pipes and hose would be pre-filled with coolant (which won't freeze) and I could switch from my line going to the CPU inlet to the cooler with quick-connect fittings. Fill the cooler with water to the top and put it in the freezer until it is a frozen solid block of ice. When I am done, put it back to "normal" with the quick-connect fittings and put the cooler filled with water back in the freezer to solidify again.

 

The Corsair max out at 2450 rpms.
The Riing fans max out at 1400 rpms. This is while running both at the same time.

When benching, this will be a problem? I physically put my hand behind the riings when running full blast on both "Corsair and Riings", the flow was pretty high. A lot higher than any other fans I have amyway.

Thanks for the help!

 

it's also called a window unit .

 

I had a nice roll around portable unit and silly me, sold it to some guy at work. That would've been great for benching!

 

One thing i know a friend of mine did to counter fluid freezing was using some sort of anti freeze concentrate. But this was for something totally unrelated to computer cooling.

You wont be able to "feel" air pockets / air slowing down between the fins. Unless you compare measured air flow before and after / with different setups.

But yeah that rpm discrepancy might lead to higher temps, i have never dont it myself. But i doubt its more than a few degrees. So if its working well for you.. dont think about what i said earlier too much.

 

If you've got a solid block of ice that has been in a freezer at something like -20 degC for instance, and copper tubing (relatively thin) is sitting within that -20 degC block of ice and then you pump normal water through those pipes then there's a good chance of that water freezing to the insides of the pipes depending on how high the flow rate is and how hot the water is flowing through the pipes, as well as being dependant on the length of the pipes too. It's got nothing to do with your flippant "ice does not get colder the longer it sits I'm afraid" comment. A lot of variables at play depending on however this thing is going to be made.

 

I would use coolant in the lines (not water) that does not freeze. I do not use water in my loop now. I am using a coolant/antifreeze type of product that is non-conductive.

I was thinking about getting two of these. One for the desktop and one for the DM-G. Then using the threaded standoffs for the screws on the VRM side of the CPU to fasten a heat sink for the VRMs only. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/341758082/ncore-v1-naked-die-cooling-waterblock-designed-by

I would only use the Riing AIO block/pump assembly as a pump, not for the cooling block.

 

Ah, OK, wall/window AC unit. Yeah, that would work. I can also use the portable AC unit I already have for that. For the DM-G that is already more or less good enough for benching just blowing super cold air on it.

 

@Mr. Fox
That is exactly what was running through my water chiller at your house.


Side note
And even at 0C the water is still not going to freeze because it's moving.It would need to be like -5 to -10 steady. Then the water would slowly start to harden over time. At -30C. Yes the water would freeze. And it wont take long at all.

Side note:
My chiller is running at 2C water right now and it's still not frozen.

 

Here you go Fox!

 

Nice. But be careful that if its antrifreeze it does not react with Acetal(rare)/PETG parts.

Heres a test Jayztwocents did a while back -

 

I don't have much experience with water loop. I wonder if someone could add a little glycol to whatever fluid they use to help with freezing? Or iirc, isn't that the ingredient that causes the break down of seals?

 

Even water wont freeze that easily, as @Johnksss stated earlier.

But here is a decent explanation -

https://www.realclearscience.com/blog/2012/11/how-do-antifreeze-agents-work.html

 

I would not use Antifreeze for a regular loop like Jay did though. The key word to that is Antifreeze. that will never happen at 70C.

 

I think I am going to do it. Would be fun as an inexpensive geek project using parts I already have and ordinary stuff from the local hardware store. I think a foot thick solid block of ice with about 10 feet of copper pipe coiled up inside of it might take a while to thaw out to the point that it was no more effective than my current loop working with ambient temps. And, I would keep the existing loop connected to cool the water coming off the CPU before it goes back through the ice block to prolong the melting process. Plus, it would be frozen inside of an insulated cooler. I bet that would last long enough for at least a few hours of benching with below ambient temps.

For the DM-G it would have to wait until the bare-die block is available for purchase. I'm not really all that hip on benching it anyway. I am mostly just using it like a laptop when I have to go out of town. Most of the time it sits on my desk just looking pretty and collecting dust. With my desktop available, there is no reason to even bother turning it on, LOL.

 

And, this would just be a fun project that is cheap and interesting, and better than ambient temps, until I save up enough to buy Brother @Johnksss water chiller, or one like it if he decides to keep using what he has.

 

I wish EVGA didn't mess up our get it colder first thread. Then all this would make allot more sense since we already tried just about everything under the sun. With pictures. LOL

Side note:
@Mr. Fox
I had to buy another one. Exactly like the one I had. Another 1/3HP. That one gave out. I'm so glad I did not sell it to you!
Well, it's not fully out, but something is wrong with the thermostat so I'm looking into that. I tried my controller from the new one i have and it did the same thing on my original one. I then tried it on the one I bought and it worked perfectly fine. I will need to jump a wire from the working one to the non working ones thermostat wire to see if that is indeed the problem, but i'm certain that it is.

 

Well, maybe if you figure it out and get it working again I can buy it when we have our next benching party in the latter half of June.

 

Hummm, I might be able to convert this one into a -30C chiller now. I will need to check with a few people first.

 

This is why you need insulation as well....

 

LOL! I was thinking something along the lines of this added to distilled water ( but Vodka may be easier to clean up)

 

Well this is about the most AWESOME thing I've ever seen!
@Mr. Fox You ever seen one of these up close or even heard of them before?

Forget about the initial price, I hate to see how much one could put into this thing once it's fully built the right way!

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod...0001&cm_sp=NeweggInsider-_-top10-_-crazycases

 

@KY_BULLET Fork up an additional $700 and you get a desk case from Lian Li. I believe their concept predates Hydra, and they're now on their 5th revision. I'll admit that the ability of the Hydra Desk to add radiators to the side is pretty clever, but I doubt it's as comfortable with that hump to the right and no height adjustability.

http://www.lian-li.com/dk-05/

 

Heres the problem - Maintenance.

 

Yep. Saw this in Microcenter. They were setting it up for a customer. The Lian LI one. And that was quite a few years back.

 

g.skill 3600 cl16 to 4000mhz cl16...

 

it is impossible to put the ram to 4133mhz ..

 

Right, but you're already 400 MHz faster than advertised, and at CL16 no less! That's a testament to the capability of your modules and motherboard.

 

well u gotta loosen some timings first... cant all be fire and forget like u did with 3600 to 4000

 

Good point, if he hasn't tried that already. I don't know when the assumption that he'd left timings at auto while climbing the frequencies entered my mind.

 

Had to buy an support bracket for my GPU. I just couldn't have that on my mind knowing that the Riing was putting pressure on the socket the way it was without support. Doesn't look too bad either.

It's an FLEEbay special called Emporers Magic GPU support bracket.

 

3600cl16 to 4133cl16

 

Did you bump the voltage all the way from 1.35V to 1.50V to get them to do an additional 133 MHz at the same latencies, or were you already overvolted?

 

Good idea! Where's the bracket though, I can't see it?

 

It runs parallel just under the GPU, it says MSI on it. Kinda hard to see but if you look out to the end of my GPU (Zoom in), you will see the little extension that braces against my NZXT bracket. I edited the original picture with the location of it.

Here is the link to it.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/273060307035

You guys think if I put a half inch spacers between my radiator and case to lengthen the AIO hoses some would hurt airflow? If so, I'm just going to mount the outer fans on the inside to help with the tension on my hoses.

 

Oh god yeah, I can see it now, I thought before it was part of the heatsink or something!

 

Would you recommend the Thermaltake Floe water cooler you have?

 

Yes my temps are the same with the Riing 240mm when the ambient room temps were 10 degrees lower using the 120mm EVGA AIO, so that's a win for me. Ambient temp 65f with EVGA, I would run 47c during benchmarks. With the 240mm Riing at 75f ambient remp, still 47c.

So I'm banking on around 3-5c drop in temps when the ambient room temp is around 65f.

EDIT....To further answer your question, the 120mm EVGA does a pretty good job and I bet the 240mm EVGA would be better than the Riing 240 simply because the contact surface is/looks bigger IMO. I wish I could afford to compare the EVGA because I think it could do a better job.

 

Very nice. Congratulations, brother.

No, it should not. But, you can also add 120mm fans there in push/pull as a spacer. That has worked fine for me, even with a third fan in the stack. It did not hurt the temps at all. I also had to do that on @Trafficante's system because the radiator hoses would not reach from the GPU to the front panel. It worked great for his as well.

 

Brother @makina69 - what kind of read/write/copy speeds and latency do you see from AIDA64? Similar to this (CL17) or better with CL16?

 

I can not tell you because I have not looked at it, I'm riding a new custom rl

 

very nice OC....

 

estable hci?

 

Que es hci?

 

So I went ahead and followed in @Mr. Fox 's shoes and modded an EVGA 980 TI water cooler to an old radiator I had laying around. This is to fit on my Kingpin 1080 TI and for future projects later on.

 

On the chiller and not the radiator. Will do that later.