*Official* NBR Desktop Overclocker's Lounge [laptop owners welcome, too]

Thanks guys. I grew up in a family composed of auto repair and construction business owners, and started learning both trades in kindergarten. By the time I graduated high school I had been doing both for a long time. I used to like both, but got burned out on them since I started so young. I do not enjoy either of those trades now and I pursued a different career path in my early 20's, but it is nice to not have to pay someone to do it.

Almost done. I need to paint the trim and doors, then I can start putting things back. This has been a LONG week, LOL. Hopefully, I will have time for some benching this weekend. Eager to get back to doing something I enjoy. Splinters, cuts, bruises, busted knuckles, sore muscles... not my idea of a good time.

 

Okay, have been away for a while. Just to let you know what I'm toying with atm.
Although hardware is from last gen (6700k, 980ti, 2800mhz RAM) I'm running my CPU at a healthy 5Ghz overclock 24/7, didn't bother to oc RAM and GPU.
Right now I'm reviving my good ol' Aquabook with internal water cooling. Will post some pics soon. Got a 3920xm ES, but with locked BIOS I have doubts to unlock the whole potential (Dell Inspiron 17R SE).

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Hi, Im using an Dell laptop with 7700HQ and 2x8GB OEM Hynix 1R A-die SODIMM. Recently I overclocked and tuned my sticks to 3000MHz 18-19-19-43 @ 1.2V (not much out of this cheap **** but still better than stock 2400 CL17). My sticks passed 150% Memtest and daily driver tasks okay. But it would crash after I played some heavy games for about 15mins. Dig deep into it and I found out my sticks cant handle the heat up to 75 celcius (laptop nowaday placing RAM too close to CPU), went back to 2400 and its fine although still too hot. Anybody facing the same issue when temp affecting RAM stability? And what can I do to reduce the effect?
Oh and Im going to buy some higher rated ram at 2666V or 3200AA but IDK if the 2666/3200 profiles is XMP or just normal SPD profile, if anyone using it please share your stick profiles. Thanks

 

I don't think Dell laptops support XMP. Best option is to use Kingston HyperX Impact which has XMP like speeds at stock JEDEC specs which deliver XMP like speeds at stock settings.
As for desktop setup, GSkill, Kingston and corsair are the ones to choose. Good luck in RAM OC.

 

dude, going from 2400 to 3000 without voltage change on sodimms is already huge! those are definitely not crappy sticks! u should be happy!

i find it weird that ure getting instability issues due to overheating RAM though the wattage on ram is so super low that one should never have any heat issues there... are u sure those clocks and timings are stable? best way to find out is to run tm5 followed by overnight run of DOS based memtest86+ (the original, not the uefi based new crap!). only then can u rule out any memory related errors and instabilities...

if its indeed heat related, change thermal paste on cpu to something high performance (gc extreme, kryonaut, ic diamond) and check if u can maybe get sodimm sized ram heatsinks.

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I can see BIOS XMP options so likely my laptop would support XMP sticks, but its very sensitive to anything equal or higher than CL19 (refused to boot when I set CL19) so I would like to pick some stick with normal 2400 profile and separate XMP 2666+, and atleast avoid the issue of my laptop refuse to work with popular 2666 CL19 stick on the market (OC them by hand but using XMP profile as base)
Already repasted with IC Diamond 7 and thermal pad with Fujipoly XR one, its just RAM slots by design sit right below CPU (actually the gap between CPU heatsink and RAM only 2-3mm) so the RAM would absorb CPU heat very fast, and IDK how to shield them without bulking the bottom plate of the laptop and short circuts the entire mainboard.
Will try memtest86+, already ran Memtest 400% and its fine, but ofcourse not heated by the CPU to 75 degrees celcius.

 

That is way too cool. Did you build that from scratch?

 

Still a work in process putting everything back and cleaning up the mess, but it is starting to look like an office again. Doesn't look like I am going to have any time to rest before going back to work on Monday.

 

Nice, very impressive case modding skills if you made that all yourself! You will have done a good job! It's not my thing, but it's obviously very good for anyone who's a Resident Evil fan & likes that style to their cases.

 

It was build from scratch but not from me (alone). A good friend made the bulk, I assisted him. It was for a German modding contest (CaseCon) back in late 2016.
And since half a year I have the honor to call it my own. My buddy moved on to another crazy projects.

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Ok, I've been showing some people this because it's awesome and I've been asked to ask how long it took to mod that

 

Here we go buddy: https://www.hardwareluxx.de/community/f143/r-e-vii-mowli-1135923-4.html

It took roughly 2 1/2 months from the beginning till the end before the modding contest began.

I'm considering upgrading to 8700k as it should be possible with some BIOS-mods like stated over here (MSI Z170a Gaming Pro):

https://www.win-raid.com/t3413f16-GUIDE-Coffee-Lake-CPUs-on-Skylake-and-Kaby-Lake-motherboards.html



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Just an update, I ran memtest86+ overnight and luckily catched 2 errors that MemTest HCI and other tools never caught on. Reduced RAM OC to solid 2800 18-17-17-39-1T. But my thermal issue still a thing so I just used some kapton tape and wrapped around RAM stick some layers. And it works. Now only 68 degrees celcius (lmao) with full stress test.

 

Wow, Kapton Tape, didn't know it had good heat transfer properties, isn't it just a heat resistant form of plastic tape - if that's the case then you'd expect it to be more of an insulator rather than a conductor, surprised you saw a temp decrease?

 

The sticks probably ran hot because of waste heat from neighbouring components rather than running excessively hot on their own. Insulation to the rescue!

First 11-series GPU to be listed is the Strix GTX 1180, with an availability date of September 28 in Vietnam. Might not pan out that way of course, but this could be indicative of the Founder's Edition cards being on track, if custom cards start to pop up late September. A Lenovo spokesperson said their Legion desktop series will be updated with 11-series GPUs by this autumn.



https://www.techpowerup.com/245657/nvidia-gt104-based-geforce-gtx-1180-surfaces-on-vietnamese-stores

 

View attachment 160512 @Convel

Why does the box look like it's been edited?

Hummm, it has been edited. Guess they couldn't be bothered with changing the box on a brand new card?

 

Probably fake. Considering the existence of that board...

 

Might be fake. Hard to say for sure, but one thing is for certain... we will find out later. Until then it doesn't matter.

Made a video for a friend that wanted a closer look at the Praxis WetBench... I'm really liking it. But, I have to use my DataVac dust-buster to blow it off about once every 48 hours or so.

 

Oh yeah, very good point, the Kapton Tape is probably reflecting the IR heat from the CPU heat pipes & other components as well as insulating it from the convective heat in the area - yep, I hadn't thought of an insulator being of benefit in that situation, but I think you're right.

Yeah, I think I saw on another news site that this had been photo shopped:
http://www.guru3d.com/news-story/vietnamese-store-put-up-preorder-for-asus-rog-strix-1180s.html

 

Failure to photoshop top of box fail. Also, colours fail and spacing fail.

So bad I would have thought that wasn't even worthy of a clickbait article then I remembered there is no such thing as a minimum standard for clickbait

 

Here's this...
https://benchmark.unigine.com/results/rid_6c719cb7f1f245298544a8984241f0d7 - http://hwbot.org/submission/3888102_

 

Is it still really hot there in your house, because I'd expect your CPU temps to be lower for short spikes to 'only' 107W? Or does you CPU not report accurate wattage, think you said once you disabled some settings in BIOS that made power measurements innaccurate?

 

Shame on me. Asus may not even have official marketing material ready this far off from an announcement, so it was likely to be a placeholder image whether it looked dubious or not. In any case, this isn't a rumour thread. We'll know more next month.

A quick hard tube question: does anyone know a trick for keeping the tube perfectly straight really close to a bend? I need to make a 45° bend in to the top radiator - as well as for the outlet. Maybe bending the end inside a fitting, or insulating the surrounding area from heat somehow would be possible.

 

What you think? +5.2GHz on 6 cores and low 107W can’t match. And Bro Fox have talked about this more than 1 time

 

It can match when it's just a game benchmark that doesn't push the CPU to it's max, which it wouldn't. So my question still stands. (Sometimes I'm like a gold fish & can't remember things people have told me on forums)

 

Max temp and Ups load doesn’t match the Cpu wattage. But I haven’t used this bench in long time. And you are not alone regarding remember correct

 

Yeah, I noticed that, figured the 1080ti at 1.2V would account for the biggest proportion of that, plus that might be driving monitors & other things too. It doesn't matter, I'll wait to hear if Mr Fox clarifies.

 

The board is real. It's just that that guy does not have one nor would he be getting one either.Unless it's out for purchase. And why post a photo shopped picture as a place holder? That is just plain gay. That's like taking pictures in front of fancy new cars and claiming them as yours so as to get the girl.
To many people running around here trying to be first to post the news about new products and forget to check if it's actually real. (That's where he failed at)

See upper reply.

As to the bend, you might be able to ask this guy. His bend is pretty close to the base.
https://twitter.com/primochill

 

Well, yes... I am on solar power and the AC power is disabled by the computer controlling the system during peak demand hours (when I ran that benchmark). It was 85°F at the time versus my normal 70°F, which is kind of miserable. But, it was 112°F outside, so I guess it could be a lot worse, LOL. And, 65°C is not exactly what I would consider to be "hot" for 5.2GHz.

 

Now that watercooling in that JohnKSS post (2 posts above) looks goooooood! I like the smooth bends and the pearlescent like red nature of the liquid (like blood almost) in contrast with the dark black metal.

 

That is hot, 30 degC room temperature. Is the 107W Package Power accurate though?

 

Yeah, for a game/game benchmark that is accurate because the CPU isn't really being used much. In fact, 107W is higher than I would normally see when gaming, even at 5.2GHz.

You are referring to the SVID setting, and I have SVID enabled at this time. I don't disable that except for my more extreme benching stuff. In fact, all of the voltage settings in the BIOS are set to "Auto" right now. I only maxed out the power limits and set the multis to 52x6.

 

I also forgot to mention, in case it was not remembered, the hard mod I did to the GTX 1080 Ti causes the GPU wattage to register a bit less than half what the GPU is drawing. At that level of voltage and core overclock, the GTX 1080 Ti is pulling around 600W. The ~221W showing in HWiNFO64 is not even close to accurate, LOL.

 

Amazingly I get the same CPU temperatures as you with my air cooler at the same 107W, if you account for the differences in room temperature between our 2 places (it's 27 degC room temperature here as opposed to 30 degC where you are):


(I suppose I should lap my IHS to even up the core temps!)

 

Yes, that's impressive, that's where you definitely need water cooling! Most I've had my GTX 1070 pull is 268W (measured by HWInfo) while running Furmark, at 100% fan speed I think it was about 72 degC. During gaming though it only pulls about 150W, or 198W average on a looped Firestrike Graphics Test 1.

P.S. I dare you to run Furmark on your 1080ti at 1.2V! Ha, no, don't do that, definitely not!

 

Got some more stuff coming so I can make my setup hot-swappable with Brother @Johnksss water chiller for our next benching party. In another month or two I think I am going to buy a matching XSPC RX360 radiator and maybe one of these water blocks. Then I can sell the hybrid setup to someone still dealing with air cooling their GPU. I was waiting for their next promo code before I put this stuff into my shopping cart. In case anyone is thinking about ordering stuff...

Spend $50+ and get 12% off!: "4JULY18-12" (Coupon is good from June 27th starting at 6pm EST through July 4th 2018 at Midnight EST. One coupon per order please.)

 

Looking at the ones you chose.... You are running them in the middle correct? (Meaning block-compression fitting-hose-QD3M to QD3F-hose-compression fitting-radiator.)
And eventually the same for the GPU side as well?

Is that 69 cents a foot?

Seems we think alike. I had been debating on pulling the trigger on this.

An actual block made for the K|ngp|n 1080 TI. Apparently Bitspower decided to make a block for it last month.

 

Yes, I am going to run them somewhere in the middle. Yup, seems like good price on that hose compared to what I find elsewhere. So, I bought more than I need so I could redo things later on.

It kind of makes sense that we think similarly since you have been my mentor for so long. And, because we are both smarter than average.

 

Sounds good. My setup has roughly 7 break points right now.
That price is excellent for flexible tubing. I may grab some from then to play with. 10FT at MC is 31 bucks. HD is like 9 bucks, but it's no where near as flexible.

Ah, you are so kind good sir!

That and a bit more of an experimenter than most.

 

That Bitspower block looks really nice. The only one I can find that fits my SC2 is the Hydro Copper. The PCB layout is compatible with reference design, except there is an extra fan header on the PCB that has to be removed to use most full GPU blocks. The SC2 uses a separate fan control for the power delivery system that can be controlled separately from the GPU and memory fan. I don't want to desolder the header pins or cut them off with side cutters. I'm kicking myself now. I put that Hydro Cooper block in my EVGA shopping cart last week. It was on sale for $115. Now it's back to regular price of $169. I went back to get it today and saw the price jumped back to normal.

I chatted with an EVGA rep about it and they couldn't do anything for me as far as honoring the price last week and there are no coupon codes for July 4th. Should have struck while the iron was hot. I snoozed and losed, LOL.

 

How come you want to get rid of the GPU cooling setup you have at the moment, is it limiting you in your benchmarks at all?

 

I just watched a video on someone modding an SC card. they even removed the DVI plug.

I think it's the same on the K|ngp|n card as well. They made like a hand full of copper blocks for it and then that was it. Like two months after the card came out no one could find blocks for them.
By the time you get ready to buy, it may be back on sale.

 

Nope, not at all. It's really excellent as it already is. I'm seeing a max of around 51°C in Unigine Superposition benchmark with the current setup. The only real limits are ambient temperatures at this point. But, I want it integrated into a custom loop with the option of also being hot-swappable between dual 360mm radiators and a water chiller. I could do that with quick disconnect fittings alone, but the 6mm (0.25 in) ID tubing on the AIO parts would be a bottleneck to the rest of the system with 13mm (0.5 in) ID tubing. If I later decide to upgrade to an HEDT setup like an i9/X299 ~18 core Extreme CPU or similar, that water flow bottleneck could be a problem. Because it is already pretty great as is, I'm not in a huge hurry to change anything. And, I can buy pieces in stages. I did order another reservoir and pump for the GPU cooling system today. I figured I could boost that a little bit and doubling the water capacity should assist with cooling as well. At the least, it should take a lot longer for load temps to normalize. I will cut the stock tubing off and replace it with 6mm clear tubing to integrate the reservoir and auxiliary pump for the GPU. For now, I will keep the CPU and GPU liquid cooling systems discrete. I will merge them when I buy a matching RX360 radiator and full GPU water block. When that time comes I will also compare temps with them merged or discrete to confirm whether discrete cooling system is better than a single dual 360mm radiator loop. I have a hunch that keeping them separated will be better, but that's only a guess until the time comes for testing and comparison.

 

Ah right, investing in the future, that i9 you're talking about! Good good.

 

That board is something very specific and tell us a lot of informations as I have learned. New gpu might be somewhat interest in that respect....

 

Okay guys. I'm going with some of your suggestions along with some friends on EVGA. The Xmas Light Extravaganza!

6 fans plus the KP water block. It should all be here next week some time.

 

Man, nothing says "I love you" to your CPU like a clean install of Windows 7, LOL.

 

Is a Reset just as good as a clean install, or probably same thing right?

 

Nope, I secure erased the 960 Pros in the BIOS and started over from scratch.

 

Yeah, secure erasing is gonna restore the SSD performance back to it's best, which of course you can't do if your rely on a reset.