Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra 100% Metal Thermal Interface on CPU, IC Diamond on GPU

@Vasudev @Papusan

After disabling those services as you guys suggested here is my result @41x



I also noticed that MSI Dragon Center is buggy as hell! For example if I set it to a certain clock speed and looking at HWiNFO64 it seems to jump from one clock speed to another...for example I set it the multiplier to 26x it jumps to 41x back and forth hence the reason why my idle temp doesn't go below 50C...I uninstalled it.

Using Intel XTU to downclock to 8x is giving me 41-44C on idle and it's also giving me overclocking stability and consistent results in Cinebench.

 

Lovely. Try TS and disable XTU briefly. Also, use custom thread count for CB 15 say set it 12 threads and check if it can hold up.

 

Will do.

 

@Midas Touch
For 6820HK, undervolt+overclock requires x40 or lower. Usually -50mv at x40. Some good chips can do -100mv, but that's rare. May need x39.
For 7820HK, you can do -100mv at x42.

 

You're right...40x -50mv seems to be the most stable so far.

 

@Vasudev @Papusan @hmscott

Do you guys have a game called Dying Light? It would seems that running it in Borderless Windowed Mode produces a lot of heat (92C) and thermal throttle, I thought my repaste was good but now it's being pushed to the limit by this game.

It's just strange because XTU stress test for 1 hour did not exceed to 90C.

 

I'm not a gamer. I can't memorize your machine. Shared pipes-heatsink will pump up temp on processor.

 

Oh okay, I tried my luck in asking anyway.

MSI GT80S does not have shared heat sinks, the heat sinks for the CPU is separate and so does the 2x heatsinks for 2 x GPU

 

Running CPU and GPU at the same time will still generate heat. And I think DL uses AVX. How many threads does it use?

 

Follow up what's happening in real time. Use Hwinfo and RTSS

 

Try running at stock GPU clocks. Your ambient is too high like mine.

 

Dying Light is one of the heaviest games on system resources. Running Dying Light on the highest possible settings is almost equivalent to full system torture test.

 

Damn, this game is killing my laptop. I never encounter such game before that is pushing even desktops temperature to the limit.

OC from 35x to 40x temp reaches to 96C, had to underclock to 33x, temperature now does not exceed to 76C.

I've repasted and repad it didn't help. The idle temp however has 3C drop.

 

If you use RTSS w/ MSI AB close them and monitor using hwinfo

 

I only use hwinfo

 

Well then, try turning down the Graphics quality from ultra to high.

 

All good now bud, just had to underclock to 33x. Can''t play without all those eye candy.

 

@Mr. Fox

I saw your recently uploaded video "Clevo P870DM3 Overclocked Gameplay Temperatures" perhaps you can try running it in borderless windowed mode , or if you have Dying Light you try running it in borderless windowed mode, both games will use all system resources in windowed mode and can heat up both the CPU and GPU to an absurd amount, I'm interested to see how a fully tamed Clevo laptops can handle the heat.

 

Do you use G-sync, or otherwise limit frame rate? If not, try limiting FPS to screen refresh, 60hz.

There are a lot of games with runaway frame rates in the hundreds of FPS, limit FPS to reduce wasted heat on GPU / CPU rendering FPS over refresh rate.

I use MSI Afterburner with RTSS (included in download) to limit FPS, and some run with just RTSS if you don't want to OC your GPU, or display OSD CPU / GPU info that comes from Afterburner and links with RTSS.

Dying Light FPS Limit
https://www.reddit.com/r/dyinglight/comments/4ah4ok/fps_limit/

Afterburner Download
https://www.msi.com/page/afterburner
https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/msi-afterburner-beta-download.html

Standalone RTSS download
https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/rtss-rivatuner-statistics-server-download.html

Improving PC Game Performance using Riva Tuner Statistics Server (RTSS)

NEW MSI Afterburner 4.4.0 beta 11 + RTSS 7.0.0 beta 25

RTSS Finally has Windows 10 UWP Game Support! Gears Of War 4 Test

 

I just checked and Crysis 3 only has full screen and window mode. CPU and GPU load seems close to the same, maybe a bit less with window mode. I do not own Dying Light. The mast majority of the 257 games in my Steam, Origin and Ubisoft libraries are first-person shooter, a few third-person shooters and perhaps a dozen or so random stuff like driving games. I'm not sure which, if any, work in borderless window mode because I've always played in full-screen. I never do anything to limit the framerate. I don't even use G-Stink. I have that disabled.

 

No g-sync and its a 60Hz monitor, it reaches 92C+ in 60Hz with vsync on (NVCP) so I don't think limiting the fps would help either. Now I OC my monitor to 100Hz, I can't go back to 60Hz because its looks too jittery especially in FPS games. I don't know what's up with the game that is causing this absurd amount of heat eve with fan at maximum (5700 RPM), the rest of the game like Far Cry Primal didn't have this overheating issue.

I guess Crysis 3 is not as graphically intensive as Dying Light or you just have an excellent cooling mods or somethings wrong with my laptop (980M SLI, 6820HK) cooling system.

 

It's the game, lots of people complain about CPU overheating in Dying Light:
https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=dying+light+cpu+overheat

You didn't mention if you've undervolted yet... that helps a lot over all and might reign in the heat in Dying Light.

Try undervolting -50mV CPU core offset, leave CPU cache at stock for now. Depending on your CPU you might get as high as -200mV, try increasing (lowering voltage) negative offset in -5mv or -10mV increments until unstable, then back off +10mV and test for stability.

If you've already done this, there is are a couple of other tricks you can use, before underclocking.

Set the Power Plan to Custom and set the Advanced settings for CPU to Min/Max 0%/99% from what it is now. The under 100% setting will stop Turbo boost, you'll need to test to see if it performs well enough at Base clock. If that's too much of a performance drop...

Try using Windows Task Manager to set CPU Affinity, right click on Steam processes to disable a couple/few cores - untick the box on Steam processes before starting Dying Light from Steam, and it will inherit the limited CPU core's setting.

These tricks have worked for CS:GO, they should work for Dying Light too

If worst comes to worst, set the Multiplier for all the Cores to 3.5ghz, or something low enough to reduce the heat to under 90c, so you can avoid thermal throttling.

Please let us know what ends up working for you

Ahh, you already got it working with 33x on all cores

 

I will call this cooling setup a mess. Still somewhat shared cooling. The processor will suffer in this mess. Can you post a screenie of Cpu Package Power when you game. Use Hwinfo64

 

The Crysis franchise, Metro and Witcher franchise are among the most graphically demanding games there are. Thus the, "Can it run Crysis?" expression that has been floating around since 2007. Based on the testing done by GameSpot (however reliable that is) Crysis 3 comes in at #6. Here is the graph of what they tested below.

https://www.gamespot.com/gallery/the-most-graphically-demanding-pc-games-2017/2900-1331/13/


Here is the video you mentioned... This is with all of the setting maxed out on everything.
Notice the GPU utilization on both 1080s is between 90 and 100% pretty much constantly.

 

Very good thermals. Did you use any mods to achieve 65C?

 

Thanks. It is running pretty darned cool for how high everything is overclocked. Unlike benchmarks, that's 25 minutes of everything being under non-stop load.

Delid, liquid metal, lapped Bitspower IHS, thinner thermal pads on the GPUs, using Phobya NanoGrease Extreme on the GPUs, removed all of the plastic sight shield crap on the inside of the bottom cover so all of the grilles are open and using my modded U3 with Vardar Furious fans.

 

If you want the very best thermals, you need mod the cooling regardless how good it is done from the factory. They can't make it 100% as you can do it by yourself.

 

Can't understand anything because I'm hearing these like something new. One thing I can sum up is: Your PC runs darn cool. Maybe with @Papusan 's Hell Freeze power you might reduce that temps to 30C on max OC'ed CPU and GPU.
So, what's this Bitspower IHS; I thought removing IHS by delidding it reduced temps by 10-30C.
Phobya NanoGrease Extreme is that good? Probably I'll add it to recommended paste. I thought TG Kyronaut and Conductonaut are the best money can buy. Though I use CM Maker Gel Nano which fits my budget and keeps my system cool enough. Delta T's 2-3C on idle and 8-10C on max load, after replacing Arctic Ceramique 2 with CM.
So, Phobya NanoGrease isn't available at Amazon India. Anyway, I'll add it.

 

Yup, it's good stuff. http://www.aquatuning.us/thermal-pa...ompounds/15898/phobya-nanogrease-extreme-3.5g

Slightly better thermal conductivity than Kryonaut and a little bit thicker viscosity, too. And, it's more reasonably priced as an added bonus.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1622289/bitspower-intel-ihs

 

Hit up the Bitspower lapping from me and Fox in mentioned threads below. A default Bitspower lid ain't always perfect. Hit up also @Mr. Fox tests regarding Phobya NanoGrease Extreme. You find everything in Clevo OC threads + Msi socket beast threads.

Edit. @Vasudev Some info regarding Intel/Amd's not very perfect IHS
A few results from lapping Bitspower IHS - more results

 

So, that's how to lap a IHS, I think the lapping of heat sink is no different. I did it very dry. Is there any downside on BGA heatsink on an AW, if I lap it too much?
I think I need to learn more about LGA on a lappie, so I'm sticking with BGA at the moment.
I saw you use a portable AC, I mean is it even an affordable option?

 

Don't lap the heatsink too much. You risk only lower pressure from it. Especially mportant for laptops worse heatsink.

 

I lapped it twice w/ 800 grit wet/dry sand paper that decreased the temp by 10C. I don't think further lapping will reduce anything. Maybe replacing stock thermal pads w/ decrease the temps a bit.

 

Finish lapping with 800 grits sandpaper is too heavy. I lapped with 1200/1500/2000
I only needed be careful with lapping the heatsink due as this one I have was now lapped the 3rd times. The heatsink would be better with lapping 1 time. Use ok quality fitting pads will help.

 

Fitting pads, what are they?

 

Sorry my English punched from my phone. I mean the pads should/must fit well on components.

 

Okay, on 15 r2 everything is 0.5mm. Arctic 6W/mK is my best option and is very expensive here. I'm waiting for some offers.

 

A portable AC unit like what I use is not expensive. I have been using this one probably 5 years now to cool quite an assortment of laptops. It was no more costly than a custom-built liquid cooling loop for a desktop using premium water blocks and other components. Plus, I can and do use it to cool Mr. Fox when he is too hot, even if the lappy is turned off. It runs on standard household current using a standard wall outlet. The squirrel cage fan in the thing blows air so hard that simply using that fan to violently cram gobs of air into the chassis of the laptop without having the AC part turned on helps a great deal. Having the massive grille opening covering most of the bottom of the DM3 is very accommodating in this regard.

Isn't mayonnaise or peanut butter 6W/mK? That's so ridiculously low that it is probably only a little bit more effective than dry metal-to-metal assembly would be (assuming the parts fit better than normal for a laptop).

 

@Mr. Fox 's got it right, best investment discovery ever is getting your first portable cooler

I've had several, and sold them for what I paid for them, I usually keep them a season and then sell them at the beginning of the next season, or when the demand outstrips the supply, best time to sell.

The reason I spoke up is that the best time to buy is coming up soon, as the heat wanes so does demand, and some retailers like Home Depot (regional hardware places too) are usually overstocked in some of the nicer models, and you can get great discounts, plus rebates too.

Start watching for sales, drop in on a couple of places selling them near you, and see what's kicking around under the shelves - those are the overstock units.

You might even get an early "improtu" sale out of a motivated sales guy

If you want one that does what @Mr. Fox 's does, be sure to pick one up that has an accessible flat top where the output comes through vents that are adjustable, and not too tall so you can fit a "desk" over it.

I used mine to keep the "computer" room cooled, and myself too, while working on hardware. They are easy to move around where you need them, and fitting the heat hose outside is easily done - watch out for HOA rules though - they are easy to disguise with a little ingenuity.

Maybe @Mr. Fox can post some photo's of his setup, it looked good last time I saw them

 

There is nothing special about it other than it works fantastic. I agree with everything else you said. The fact that it is portable and can be rolled into any room (or stored in a closet) makes it a much better investment than a tacky-looking window unit... which is also a great way to get on the wrong side of an HOA and make your neighbors hate you if they can see it.




This window is by my front door. We have solar screens and you cannot even notice the exhaust vent standing 2 feet away from it.

 

I'll post some results when I get my Coolabratory Liquid Ultra

 

Arctic Pads costs 30-40$ and I'm not even saying what Fuji thermal pads 11W/mK. You can figure it out.
@Mr. Fox: Which thermal pads do you use?

 

Just cheap pads from China off of eBay. I have spent a lot of money over the years on crazy expensive thermal pads (including the 11 W/mk Extreme-e and 17 W/mK Fujipoly Extreme-XR pads most recently) from Thermal Grizzly, Phobya and Fujipoly and I cannot tell any difference between them except that the cheap pads are more durable, softer and easier to compress. The high WmK pads are generally hard and get brittle after a while. Their hardness and non-compressibleness can interfere with die contact.

http://stores.ebay.com/CoolingDay/S...84185018&_sid=855301808&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261646785994
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251241281054

 

Okay they look exactly like Arctic with 3.2W/mK. Well thanks for the link. They are pretty cheap even after shipping.

 

See also Thermal pads updates

Softer pads is more important than using higher quality but very stiff pads.

 

So which one to Choose? You have confused me. Are you trying to stress on the point " Go for softer pads in the link above which have greater re-use capability"

 

If you have the money, can afford them + can buy it where you live... The Alphacool 14w/mk(soft and top cooling capacity). You know you get the best money can buy.

Or simply go for those Arctic Cooling thermal pads 6 w/mk(soft, good results and very cheap, + reusable).

Edit. See also test from from Artic cooling own website

 

Alphacool 14w/mk and Alphacool 17w/mk are rebranded from a certain Japanese company. Starts with F

 

FujiPoly don't offer 14w/mk in own name.

 

http://www.pcmodd.com.ar/index.php?action=carro/showProduct&itmId=2317&rbrId=87

http://www.fujipoly.com/usa/assets/files/2015 DataSheets/SARCON GR14A ES_DS4110 ver.1.pdf
I think this is it. Comes in sheets.