PSA: You can now overclock your laptop monitor [intel/intel+optimus]

Unless I am missing something, when I add a 75Hz option in CRU and restart, selecting 75Hz from the advanced display options just blacks out the screen.

If there is something I can tweak within CRU to achieve 75Hz on this panel I would be more than appreciative for help

 

Have you tried 65 and 75Hz w/o screen blackout?

 

Not without the blackout

If I add a profile for 65 or 75hz with "LCD Reduced" in CRU, the screen blacks out once the are selected in the display settings.

Are there other settings in "Manual" mode I could tweak to boost the achievable refresh rate?

 

I just use manual.

 

K, I was finally able to get the credentials reset on my old account. Not that it matters much but it was bothering me having 2 accounts to the same forum

But to update on the monitors:

The LP156WF6 on the Sager seems to be capped at 63 regardless of how much I tweak the other variables. Looking around online, there seems to be a significant portion of people with that screen who can't get passed the 63Hz mark. I'm not sure if there is a lock on it somewhere or if they are just so precise in their manufacturing process that there is that much commonality between products of the same model.

I hope there is a lock and that someone knows a work around because I would sure like to take it into at least the mid-70s for the reason below.

Once I got back to the house and started playing with my desktop monitors I was able to hit 80Hz on Acer R240HY and the difference between playing something at 60Hz and replaying the same area at 80Hz is absolutely noticeable. Even doing random things on the desktop feel smoother and I had no complaints with the Acer monitor at 60Hz

So experiencing that really makes me wish I could get more out of the screen on this NP8157

The Dell P2217H that I use as my extension monitor on the desktop was able to clock to 69Hz. It initially tried to hold 70 but all of the colors seemed washed out

But anyway, I don't know how I've avoided using higher refresh rate monitors up to this point but now that I have experienced 80Hz, I damn sure don't want to go back to 60Hz

 

Hi, I have an Dell 7577 notebook with eDP 30 pin connector. Installed a FHD 120Hz panel and its okay. However CRU said my bandwidth is 285MHz which is above eDP spec? Can you guys confirm it? Also can I overclock the panel above 120 like 144, assume my panel can handle it?

 

Semi-success: Dell XPS 15 9570 with SHP149A screen. 15.6" IPS @ 1080p went from 60 Hz to 68 Hz. Initially, I manually copied over all the numbers in the parameters box in CRU from the pre-existing 60 Hz 1080p entry into my custom resolutions to get to 67 Hz. After that I got 68 Hz by reducing total vertical lines to 1130. I'm happy with this modest result as it still makes gameplay noticeably smoother (I'm used to gaming at 100-165 Hz on my desktop PC).

68Hz by fray_bentos posted Dec 26, 2018 at 6:02 PM

 

I have a very very strange Problem with my Display OC.

It is NOT a Problem specific to my Laptop or specific to my screen.
I have Samsung LTN156HL06-C01 OC to 90Hz, but it happened to Samsung LTN156HL01-104 too.
I had MSI GE60-2PE but i have Clevo N957TP6 now, same Problem with both.

So Laptops are not the Problem, but Maybe a Samsung screen Problem?

Description of the Problem:
I can run my 90Hz overclock just fine for days of Surfing the web or gaming. But if i start to watch some YouTube Videos in Edge in Fullscreen, the screen may Freeze und start slowly to fade to Grey or black, like an lcd that got the power cut off (old Gameboy screen for example). The Laptop is still running, i can still Change brightness or listen to Music, but i cant see anything on the screen anymore. I close the lid to go into Sleep mode and when i wake it up again, everything is fine.

It is ONLY when watching Videos in Edge browser, i cannot understand it...

 

Acer Predator Helios 300 G3-572.
Display:AUO61ED 1080p 60Hz built-in display.
Driver version:25.20.100.6471 (12/2018).

So using CRU I was able to overclock it to 65Hz without any weird glitches or artifacts but there is something not as noticeable but...
I can see lines of pixels somewhat clearly.
Is it normal?

 

Most / many? 15" screens don't OC more than a few HZ over 60, with 63hz being the typically highest stable / usable OC.

The 17"/18" screens for the most part will OC into the mid 90hz range, with many stable at 100hz, some reporting as high as 110hz.

 

Can I do anything about it?
65hz already exhibits the aforementioned issue.
Driver mods or older driver versions?
Anything.

 

It's a physical / engineered limitation of that panel or driver electronics. If a software adjustment stops behaving over a certain setting, it's a hardware limitation.

 

Well, where can I find a better screen then?

 

Well, the rated screen hz is going to be 60hz, they aren't going to publish an "OC" hz rating too.

I suppose you could find a higher HZ 15" display, but then IDK if the driver hardware will support much higher either - it might be a limiting factor too.

If the original laptop hardware comes with an optional faster refresh screen(s), like a 120hz or 144hz option, then you could research what model's have those screen's and try to swap one in.

But, that assumes the driver hardware on the motherboard / display board in your laptop will support those displays - quite often the interface board is matched to the display, so you'd need to find one of those too.

It would make more sense to return what you have if you are unsatisfied with it and look for a model with the higher refresh display included, and buy that instead.

 

Success: Dell Inspiron 7537 with SDC4C48 screen, 15.6" TN 1080p 60 Hz went up to 85 Hz with ease (copying over the pixel timings from the pre-existing resolution in CRU). Confirmed working with the 15.40.32.64.4568 (20.19.15.4568) driver. Intel display power saving options / auto-refresh all needed to be disabled and set to high performance, as artifacts were seen otherwise when running on battery. 90 Hz and 95 Hz also appeared work and passed the UFO test frame skip test, but I noticed occasional stuttering when scrolling some web-pages, so I dropped back to 85 Hz, which seems much smoother to me. Possible room for further improvement by tweaking.

 

The artifacts on battery are because of PSR (Panel Self Refresh).
You dont Need to turn off all battery saving Settings. only this one.

 

HP Zbook 17 G5 here with 1080p@60hz, overclocked without dropping frames to 103hz with original timings, and 105hz with custom timings. Limit it seems to be the eDP interface and the 2 lanes available on the monitor panel itself limiting you to 240mhz any not a single mhz more. LGD059E panel. Custom timings all original but reduced back porch vertical from 23->10lines. You can reduce it to 1 and it will be stable but it won't allow you to get to 106hz stable. I've talked much with the creator of CRU in their official forums, and even tried other methods like setting discrete only gpu (remind you normally this is under intel 630 integrated graphics) but again 240mhz limit. Also there is no pixel clock patcher for DP interface so only way to get more refresh rate is to decrease the resolution.

 

I've installed both latest drivers for my nvidia and intel gpus. When I change my settings in CRU I don't see new refresh rates in the list on windows.
4700mq, 740m. Any guesses why? Since i wasn't even was able to overclock to 63hz I'm guessing there is something wrong in the process.
MSI CX61 is my laptop.

 

Just want to say Thank you very much. I did my OC and it is very successful.
Alienware 17 R3 (17", 1080p, Skylake i7 6700HQ) LGD0459 60Hz -> 95Hz [LCD-Standard timings] -> No Frame Skipping but has Artifacts at 96Hz.
Intel HD Graphics 530 -> Driver Version 25.20.100.6373

 

Msi Gv72 7rd here, achived 103.852 hz with 239.99 Mhz pixel clock.
Monitor: CMN1735
Custom timings

 

Dell Inspiron 15 Gaming 7567 - i5 with GTX1050 (non ti)
BOE0690 TN panel (straight from the factory)
Using latest Intel video driver from Dell's website: 22.20.16.4836 (17/10/2017)

Managed to get stable 85 hz with default timings
90hz already produce colour artefacts.

VERY satisfied.

 

Hi! Managed to overclock my monitor (1080p 60hz 17.3") on the MSI Ge72 2QC to 100hz stable with timings.Thanks !!

 

Hey, I was able to "overclock" my Surface Pro 4's internal screen to (only) 69Hz . Going any higher unfortunately results in a black screen.
At least it feels a little bit better than 60Hz :]

Device: Surface Pro 4, 265GB SSD, i5-6300U, HD-520 (newest intel drivers, NOT the one provided by windows update -> control panel available despite it being a surface device)

(The display is already the 'new' screen/after flickergate 'repair'.)

 

I've overclocked my 4k Samsung ltn156fl02-101 to 64 Hz with the really basic CRU instructions. Literally just copied the default settings into a new entry and changed it to 64. Seems ok in testufo in terms of frame skipping and with videos.

Has anyone had more recent success with 4k screens? The entries I've seen seem to be limited to around ~65 Hz before saturation/instability.

It's a g-sync panel, so I guess my next step is to see what happens when g-sync interferes.

Thank you to ToastyX for keeping this alive.

 

REALLY? Not a single reliable report all over the internet? Welp, that's an achievement because you can find unimaginable things in it's corners. Like this report (what a coincidence, by guy with my nick name) in about such a deep corner as CRU topic on monitortests forum itself. I mean, maybe this... what is he calling himself... Jimmy... James D or whatever... maybe he is just lying to become ' The Only on Internet' who posted about a damage to a monitor... Nope, there are even posted pics about that damage so seems legit.
Let me go to the first mirror and ask him nicely whether he is a reliable source...

Now, all sad jokes aside, it is an overstretch to post such a bold statement as 'damage is impossible on modern monitor'. It is possible, even if it's low chance.
Long story short: it ended up with unrecoverable damage in a form of vertical line which appeared again and never disappeared. I still overclock on another laptop's monitor though but I know the risks.

Spoiler: My original reliable enough post

Spoiler: Pictures

 

The 'results' section is trivial to update but I haven't done it in a while.
Maybe a good solution is making a community spreadsheet that people can add to publicly without needing to post here. Then it could be shared on other sites too and become a useful reference for people who are buying a laptop. Then again we would have to trust people wont grief it...

Ok, that looks like a problem. Judging by your post history over there this was a MSI GT780R (2011), but you switched the nv gpu for a radeon and directly flashed the EDID a couple times. If I understand correctly, it looks like you were originally having instability/color tinting at ~96 Hz depending on the GPU or profile, seemed to figure it out after installing the radeon, and then used the 96Hz (100Hz?) mode until the lines appeared. Then you say they disappeared after using the color flashing tool.

I'm assuming you switched to a more conservative profile when you tried to fix it, then decided to test again and ended up with permanent damage.
Either way that is beyond the scope of what I'm talking about.

I had a dell 7559 with an LG panel that overclocked from 60 to around ~100 and experienced a similar thing. Had a purple horizontal line at the very bottom of the display. It went away after I backed off the profile, but not immediately. I'm sure if I had stuck with that profile longer or went even more aggressive it would have been permanent.

The point is not that damage is impossible, it's that damage is unlikely if you are careful (which is what I recommend in the first post, geared for beginners!).
I think the fact that your post was so hard to find (buried in page 216 of a thread nearly 400 pages long) speaks to how resilient panel hardware is.
Of course being too aggressive with the EDID values (esp after swapping out the display chain LOL) is one way to cause damage. I'm sure if you plugged a random number generator into CRU and let that sit for an hour your display would be borked too.

 

Long story short: I tried to overclock monitor and it damaged. I did flash it istead of using windows hook method but what it changes? Don't see it out of the scope.
> Judging by your post history over there this was a MSI GT780R (2011), but you switched the nv gpu for a radeon and directly flashed the EDID a couple times.
Yes.
> If I understand correctly, it looks like you were originally having instability/color tinting at ~96 Hz depending on the GPU or profile, seemed to figure it out after installing the radeon, and then used the 96Hz (100Hz?) mode until the lines appeared.
Yes, but GPU had nothing to do with it aside that had to use CRU for 60+Hz with AMD card. Color tinting was on AMD on videos until switched from standard to reduced timings.
> Then you say they disappeared after using the color flashing tool. I'm assuming you switched to a more conservative profile when you tried to fix it, then decided to test again and ended up with permanent damage.
I switched to default immediately, 2 days before ColorFlashingTool but fix didn't last long. I used 72 Hz and problem came back few days after and then nothing helped.

 

Hi everyone. Tried to overclock my panel and couldn't get even 61hz. I used 1920*1080 + any Hz. Always just a black screen, not even artifacts or flickering.
It is 4k AUO109B.
I'm using latest intel driver (22.20.16.4749) i7-6700hq HD530 (or I should use only drivers from this post ?)
CRU works fine I have resolution in list, tried different settings.
Pixel clock is much lower than at standart 4k 60hz.
May be I'm doing smth wrong, or it's just can't be overclocked ?
Used to overclock ext monitor, old TN panel and it worked fine (with Nvidia panel).


ps: I understood the problem. You can only add the resolution in native resolution (I mean you can't add 1920 if you have 4k panel, because it reads all resolutions as 4k signal, or smth like that). All I could get is 64 fps. At higher numbers flickering and black screen.

 

@margroloc Got any update on which latest intel graphic driver is compatible with his software? I haven't updated my driver and is still on Intel HD Graphic 530 Driver version 25.20.100.6373. Thanks in advanced.

 

Medion Erazer X7849 / Clevo P670RS-G
Panel: LG Philips LGD046C

Manged to OC it from 60HZ to 96HZ with manual timings on MSHybrid mode. On discrete mode, I can get it to 100HZ

 

Hi there !

I have an interesting problem that I'm sharing here, and if someone had a clue about how to solve it, it'd be greatly appreciated.

Okay, I currently have a MSI GP73 Leopard Laptop with a very nice screen panel (the legendary Chi Mei N173HHE-G32 120hz@FHD). I also have an external monitor (2nd screen), a mfkin crappy Philips 244EL (panel PHLC06C) said to be capped 1080p@60hz

- I managed to overclock the Philips 244EL to 2560x1440 at 74hz using the custom resolution under nvidia. "It just works".
- I wanted to do the same, aka getting my laptop panel to 2560x1440 @ 60hz.

Here comes the interesting thing. I tried a few parameters using CRU, and I can't get the 2560x1440 @ 60hz (I didn't even try higher refresh rate) working on my laptop - even if pixelclock is around the same of FHD@120hz.

But when I plug in the philips 244EL and ask windows to duplicate the screen (not the extended mode), the laptop resolution switchs to WQHD resolution aswell, in 60hz, though. Windows says then my laptop has WQHD res, Intel Graphic Panel says it is also in WQHD. Image on screen is perfectly fine, no artifacts, no frameskipping (did the testufo frame test).

When I switch to extended mode, laptop screen turns back to FHD resolution (and win+Intel Panel says its in 1080p), while the external monitor stays in wqhd.


I know my laptop can handle the wqhd res cuz of duplicate mode working, but I can't get it working (when the external monitor isn't plugged in) with CRU. It just shows an image that is totally desynched from the screen as if it was wrongly interlaced.


Any ideas, any settings i could try ? especially @t456 ? Thanks a lot.

 

@ayerly This resolution is virtual. It might do something for games but not for general use.

 

What do you mean when you say it is "virtual" ?

Because I do see the difference and it is an actual wqhd resolution which is way better for me to work (more space for writing/reading) etc...

I find it more suitable for general use than games (on which i'd play 1080p@120hz ofc)

 

Because all that is scaling. You don't actually get more pixels or have a natural WQHD.

 

Even if it's virtual, can it be done with CRU like overclocking? I have a 1366x768 screen and sometimes I need a little bit more screen real estate, even if it's scaled

Also not related, but since a last few driver updates, if I create any custom profile in CRU, Intel Display Power Saving Tech would automatically turn on after every reboot for me, and it cant be disabled in the Control Panel when plugged it. So what I have to do is unplug then plug in again for the brightness to be normal. Is there a fix for this?

 

Hey, I have a Thinkpad W541 with the 1920x1080p screen, and I can't get CRU to work at all on it. I am running driver 4568 as required from this thread (I had to hunt it down on a mirror but found it), and I have tried the newer drivers as well. The display is eDP, but I don't know which version. I have tried to even add resolutions like 832x624 at 60Hz (as a test) and that wouldn't even show up either. I can add that mode however through the Intel utility, but only 60Hz, 59 and 61 will not work.

Any ideas on how to get CRU to overide the EDID? I currently reverted back to driver version 4568 and have left it there since.

Also, "Hide modes" under the monitor preferences on Windows is greyed out, I cannot override it whatsoever.

(EDIT: CRU worked fine on my Toshiba Satellite, bringing it from 60 to 90Hz, and my desktop's Dell panel, going from 60 to 75Hz, as long as HDR was disabled. In HDR it wouldn't go above 60Hz at all, and would kick down to 8pbc and not remain in 10bpc).

 

That's not totally correct. Just overclocked my asus g73jh panel B173HW01 V4 (AUO149D) to 106hz. This is on LVDS 2ch (edp 40-pin supposedly?) Max pixel clock 228.3Mhz. 60hz 1080p needs min of 142.40Mhz (or so depending on timing settings) so generally if a laptop even pre 2013 came with 1080p panel it will be 2ch. So in practice we can say 112*2=224Mhz max pixel clock for most laptops with 1080p panels, and you can run out of spec by 1-2%.

 

i got the same panel with predator helios 300 2019, i tried ur custom timings and it worked great on the 155hz, isnt there any way to have it work on 165hz? it keeps on skipping frame

 

Hi there, someone could help?
I got a problem after OC the laptop monitor

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=33462&share_type=t&link_source=app

No display after monitor overclocking

Inviato dal mio SM-G950F utilizzando Tapatalk

 

The tutorial part of this thread is not useful any longer but the database part is. I'm really behind on updating it, but here is another entry.

SHARP SHP14C5 (LQ156M1JW03)

Native: 15" 1080p 240Hz IGZO IPS

Overclocked: 250Hz
Overclocked Timings: (Horizontal, Vertical)
Active (1920, 1080)
Front Porch (24, 3)
Sync Width (40, 5)
Back Porch (16, 14)
Blanking (80, 22)
Total (2000, 1102)
Polarity (-, -)

Refresh Rate: 250.000 Hz
Horizontal Frequency: 275.500 KHz
Pixel clock: 551.000 MHz

Interface: 40-pin eDP (physically verified)

This is the panel used on all the 2019 240Hz 15" gaming laptops. Very decent panel, though response times are slightly worse than the 144Hz AUO 15"er (AUO82ED) according to notebookcheck.
One odd thing with this panel; the refresh rates that are stable at any given set of timings is not intuitive. The only thing that consistently helped was to tighten the vertical back porch, but sometimes this would make previously working refresh fail. Each set of timings has a very narrow range of working refresh rates (or none at all) - we are talking 0.003Hz tolerance. The direction of this relationship is not obvious. When a refresh rate doesn't work, it just blacks out - there is no artifacting like on other panels that lets you know you are close to stable. Of all the laptop panels I've tried to overclock, this one has behaved the strangest (most unforgiving). Could only get 10Hz out of it, but validated (no frameskips or artifacts). These timings will only work for 250.000Hz (not any more, not any less)

 

MSI GS60 with Samsung SDC4C48 on Windows 8.1

Updated to latest drivers, and could overclock to 90Hz LCD Native however there was artifact in the form that every even/odd line would be slightly darker. Kinda like an old CRT, lol.

LCD Reduced was able to make the artifact a bit better, but it still existed. Finally, I reduced it to 85Hz reduced, and was able to get a perfect display without any artifacts or dropped frames.

Thank you so much for this post. Even in 2020, I'm finding it very useful. 60Hz to 85Hz is definitely a noticeable difference; while it's not as good as 144Hz, it's still a great improvement.

 

Tried on a Razer Blade Stealth (late 2019, 1650 max-q model), no luck so far. Screen goes black when creating any custom resolution and refresh rate (even 61 Hz), have to reboot in safe mode and reset.

 

I managed to OC to 82 HZ on P150SM-A with AUO B156HW01 V??? (Glossy IPS LVDS). The max I was able to get was 85 HZ with no frame skipping, but the screen had red artifacts in some scenarios. Timings below

 

I figured it was the V7 based on HwInfo64.

 

Hi all
I have an Alienware m17x R4 with i7-3720QM. Unfortunately on the Intel site it says that they no longer provide support/drivers for my rig. I've seen a couple of posts of people here saying they were able to overclock their monitor but the posts are quite old (I think 2017).
Is there a way for me to do it or my laptop is too ancient for it

 

Hello again, I'm now using a different laptop (Acer Swift 3 SF314-56G), and I read somewhere in reddit is when adjusting the timings is to start from front porch then width sync then back porch, and so I did, and this is the minimum I can go. The laptop is using CMN14D4 panel, and I managed to get 64 Hz stable no frame skipping, artifacts or anything. When trying to get to 65Hz, screen just went dark.

I was wondering if there is any way I can squeeze more hertz considering the pixel clock in 64Hz is lower than in 60Hz, maybe a certain combination of the parameters?

 

you do realize overclocking screen can cause damage although rare it can happen. I overclocked my nitro 5s screen to 90hz and after reverting it flickered massively for 3 days.

this inspite of general consensus it can do no harm///I know first hand

 

Razer Blade Stealth Late 2019 with 60Hz didplay. 69 MHz does work, 70 and above create heavy artifacating.

 

Thanks for the topic. For statistics I can get @100hz on my G750JS monitor. When gaming its really usefull 'cause I`m used with my 144hz monitor when in home....

The only problem right know is the gama getting too strong. Even when calibrating on windows I cannot get a good image quality(lowest gama possible..).
When I change to 60hz I can see how vibrant the colors goes, I'll try more settings later on.

 

Can you set refresh rate to 1 hz for example if your using the laptop as an e-reader? Dropping from 144hz to 60 gives me about 10-20 extra minutes of battery life. I've got uhd 630, Monitor LGD05E8.