Anyone tried this stuff? Whatever stock crap Sager put on my machine on my last RMA is failing across the board (my CPU is even idling at 55-60C) and I came across this stuff today. It appears to have an even higher thermal conductivity than GC Extreme and actually appears to be as good as it gets without going the liquid metal route. For the price though I'm hoping it lasts. It costs about 10 bucks a gram.
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Stuff is great. Hard as hell to get ahold of though. I got a tiny tube enough for a couple applications and have been trying to source more but can't find it anywhere.
Ethrem likes this. -
Overclockers UK have them. Shipping to US £19, shipping to Sweden £31
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/search?sSearch=thermal+grizzly
Edit: Maybe you´ll find something here:
http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/where-to-buyEthrem likes this. -
Spartan@HIDevolution Company Representative
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Why put in Aeronaut? Delete this from your post please. Some can't see the difference between the two other and this medium quality paste
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Thing is I placed an order on Amazon for that 11.1g tube a few months ago and while its said it was in stock, a few weeks later it never showed and the company refunded my money. Maybe it's back in stock now though.
Ethrem likes this. -
A well known website http://www.frozencpu.com
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Sorry, I mean I have seen it before. But you have right. I can't find it. Still a very nice website for cooling interface.
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I ordered from the same seller for a bit more for the small tube. It definitely isn't easy to find but hopefully the performance is worth it. I haven't opened my machine since my last RMA so it has been running whatever crap Sager used this whole time. For some reason they decided to stop shipping RMAs back with ICD7 even builds that had it when it was ordered (like mine) so I'm glad I still have some Articlean as there's no telling what I'm going to find......Spartan@HIDevolution likes this.
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I don't know why the Antec Nano 7 stuff gets overlooked, it's among the best and very, very cheap to get a hold of. It easily competes with the ICD, GC Extreme, AS5, for a fraction of the price. Get it here:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/antec-n...ound/3742027.p?id=1218431588535&skuId=3742027
Last edited: Apr 25, 2016Ethrem likes this. -
Never heard of it before. I just happened to stumble on this
http://overclocking.guide/thermal-p...d-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/6/
It doesn't even appear on the list.
I also saw it mentioned on a number of reddit posts as well.
Unfortunately being a small German company it's not easy to find nor is it cheap. I'll probably order some GC Extreme as well since the availability is higher and I know my system works great with it. I considered liquid ultra or the Phobya liquid metal but after my scare removing CLU last time, I decided against it. -
Naturally I always figure everybody lives in the USA...sorry about that. Lucky for you, Coollaboratory is German based, as is Phobya. If CLU really scares you, I would look at the liquid MetalPad, which also works super well. measure your die, trace on the pad, cut, apply, make sure the heatsink is TIGHT, warm up to 50 degC, and it bonds to the die and heatsink. Removal is simple too, comes off as a whole if removed carefully.Ethrem likes this.
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No I live in the USA, that's why it's so hard to find Kryonaut because TG is a German company
I don't think MetalPad would work either. The mounting on these heatsinks is never flat...... Foxconn churned out some seriously warped heatsinks for the SM and SM-A machines... -
That's too bad. But like I said, the Antec Formula 7 Stuff actually works really, really well. I have it on 5 PS3s 60GB units, which are known to be ovens, and they keep them quite cool with no degradation for the past 1.5 yearsEthrem likes this.
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I hate repasting which is why I usually use GC Extreme (the install I did on my desktop like a year and a half ago is performing just as well as it did when I originally installed it) but I figured I would give this stuff a try. I don't like IC Diamond because it scratches up the heat sinks and GC Extreme outperforms it if applied correctly but other than CLU and some ShinEtsu paste and MX-4 I haven't really messed with any other pastes. They're all pretty negligible differences anyway (except MX-4, that stuff is garbage and pumps out in a week) but anything that can take my inferno CPU and GPUs down an extra 2-3C is welcome...
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Yeah, even when Sager puts on ICD it's usually not the best paste job either. I always get improved thermals by redoing it myself. I think you'll be satisfied with the Kryonaut. If I can get ahold of a couple big tubes I'll probably start using it over ICD. It's definitely easy to apply, easy to clean off, non conductive, non capacitive, and no diamond content to scratch the surface, and performs same if not slightly better than ICD. Long term I don't know yet, but I did use it on my P650SE and will see if it holds up over time. That is what I liked about ICD is that you set it and forget it as it tended to hold up well over the course of years.Last edited: Apr 25, 2016Ethrem likes this.
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That means you have to go CLU. Just no other way around it. Be careful, take your time, and always keep paper towel + 91% alcohol near by. It picks up the little balled up CLU in case you never need to remove
But then again, you told me the heatsinks area not the best, and I am concerned about possible air leak, which would dry out your CLU to dust, and that would be REALLY bad. Maybe you should stick to the conventional pastes.Ethrem likes this. -
Yeah ICD lasts but its downsides outweigh it's longevity really. I wouldn't hesitate to use ICD on a system for someone who just needs a stable system and doesn't overclock or anything and likely won't ever even open the case but it's too much of a hassle for people like me and it's thermal performance gets dwarfed by other pastes. Hopefully I get a shipping notification for the 1g tube of Kryonaut today but since it's the same seller, who knows. That's what PayPal disputes are for though.
I managed to get CLU to work on my machine but I had to really paint it on both surfaces for the CPU and it made me nervous knowing that it took such a thick layer to make contact. With that said, it worked very well for the two or three months it was on there before I had to RMA my machine again and had to remove it to avoid Sager screwing up removing it and frying my machine and blaming me. I was running 4.2GHz 24/7 with a 90W power limit and it stayed around a max of 85C. My machine can't even do stock with an 80mv undercoat at 67W without max fans which still hits 88-89C in some games and apps.
It didn't work on the GPUs as well and because of how much I had to use on the CPU I decided to use GC Extreme on the GPUs instead and it worked great. -
I would go back to CLU then. You always have to apply to the heatsink and CPU anyway to make sure the metal bonds properly. Since you have done this before with some great success, I highly recommended you go this route again. If done right, it really is a one and done type deal. Like I said before, just go slow and be careful. When you remove, always work your way into the CPU die, not out, to avoid getting it onto the mobo. I go one step further and use electrical tape around the CPU area on the mainboard.
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I know how to apply it but supposedly Sager replaced the heatsink when I RMA'D it so I'll have to investigate how flat this one is. My old one was only slightly warped but one of the screws stripped so I had to use needle nose pliers to tighten that screw down and to loosen it as well. If this one is warped like the original one (third CPU heatsink) there's no way CLU will make contact.
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Lapping heatsink lol?
Good luck on fixing it and getting it out of the door.Last edited: Apr 25, 2016deadsmiley likes this. -
It was this good? Geez, I need to get the tube I bought a while back. I just hope it still works.
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Yeah. I had a 15$ ebay coupon, i used it to buy 3 tubes. It is really good paste, and that this price, downright unbeatable. Get it while it lasts.
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No, it doesn't. You simply need to soak it before removing, instead of rubbing it off with a cloth/swab/etc that has alcohol or solvent on it. It's in the instructions that you have to put solvent on it, or slowly remove it, but nobody listens and they just scrub it off, and then the diamonds scratch their heatsinks.
Simply put solvent (like Arcticlean) on it, go get some water to drink or something, come back, gently wipe off. If any remain, repeat the process with a smaller wait time for the solvent (as it won't be thick/coated on) and then you're golden.
Here's my GPU die being a literal mirror after I removed ICD from it the way I described: Before and After. Yes, that is my roof reflected in the GPU die.CaerCadarn and Papusan like this. -
This is the cheapest i could find the 11g tube ($26)
https://www.memoryc.com/pc-componen...kryonaut-thermal-grease-paste-11-1-grams.html
This tube lasted me 5 re-pastes on the GPU and CPU. This was when i was still trying to diagnose my GPU issue and realised my CPU heat sink was slightly elevated/warped on one end. Right now my CPU has CLU on the die and the IHS is 2000grit lapped.
Temps were about 5C higher for Prime95 15 min Small FFT run. This was a 5C Drop from GCE. But it will definitely depend on how well the heat sink makes contact with your IHS.
But yeah, Kryonaut is the best paste i have used. I used to stick to GCE for my desktop and it worked great for years, but for the laptop, it just doesn't cut it. -
Nice find. My 1g tube shipped today but I'll keep that place in mind if I like the stuff.bloodhawk likes this.
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My Explorer had a fit trying to access those links, FYI.
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The links are fine, and from a legit and safe site (though not as well-known maybe). I don't know why your browser would freak out.
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I use this and like it. Got it off amazon a few months ago.
Sent from my overpriced Galaxy S6 Edge + -
Not amazon, 3rd party seller through FBA service.
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I got it today but I don't feel like tearing down my laptop right now. It's cool that it comes in a sealed bag. A lot of the time when I have ordered paste it just comes in a little baggy inside of an envelope with no way of telling if it is what it says it is.
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if you order the 11.1g syringe, you get 2 spreader tips as well. Pretty handy.But a significant amount does get left behind in them.
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does any one know how long this stuff lasts? I ive stopped using gelid extreme as it dose not last long enoth, i'm using CLU at the moment but i think my heat sink is warped as i'm getting higher temps then i would expect & id like to go back to a non conductive paste
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The spread method is not recommended for low pressure mounts. Let the laptop heatsink do the work. I don't even do spread in my desktop. I use the X method in my desktop and the pea method for the GPUs and rice grain method for the CPU in the laptop. Works flawlessly.bloodhawk and Spartan@HIDevolution like this.
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Spartan@HIDevolution Company Representative
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They way I do it on systems with an IHS, I just spread a very, very thin amount over the entire IHS, then put another big blob in the middle and let the heatsink do the rest. It spreads out much better over existing thermal compound vs on bare metal.
Wtihout IHS, I just put a blob and let the heatsink spread. -
Yeah, i figured this out after wasting like 3 x 1g tubes early on. The mounting pressure just doesn't seem enough, with laptop coolers in most cases.
Yeah, should give you about 3-4 re-pastes each for the GPU/CPUEthrem and Spartan@HIDevolution like this. -
I prefer X-shape with ordinary paste. Even more importent on Skylake .
https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Thermal-Paste-Application-Techniques-170/
Ethrem, bloodhawk and Spartan@HIDevolution like this. -
Spartan@HIDevolution Company Representative
the X method is the only method I will use from now on. very nice spread with no bubbles
@Papusan blowing bubbles in the snow =
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Great that you read my post in the Clevo Oc thread
@Phoenix Yeah. I love bubbles but not in the thermal paste
Last edited: Apr 28, 2016Spartan@HIDevolution likes this. -
I've used a single line on the Haswell CPU while the GPU job was done similar to HTwingnut's 2 lines method. Is it any good ? or still the X method is better over any type ?
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I just got my 11g tube! Yay. Amazon came through this time. However in the package it says not to use with aluminum heatsinks... Most are copper, but what about the die? Is it nickel/copper? I don't think it's aluminum, but sure hope not.
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Yeah it seems to be nickel coated copper. I lapped mine and copper layer is showing after a bit of sanding.
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The X method is better on processor IHS and GPU die. A 3/4 long thin line is better for an oblong mobile prosessor die than just a blob.
Edit: But this is to much paste I think
+ Noctua NT-H1 isn't a very good paste for laptop hardware.
Last edited: Apr 29, 2016Robbo99999 and Ashtrix like this. -
I got a tube of this stuff off amazon about 2 months ago, but the whole engineering major thing has been so hectic that I haven't had the time to repaste.
Maybe this weekend
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkbloodhawk likes this. -
I have 2 GC Extremes with me @3.5G, will try to finish that stock & then move to Kryonaut !
Papusan likes this. -
So wait, this is a hybrid paste? The only thing that eats up aluminum that would be in a thermal paste is gallium, the same stuff they use in liquid ultra. If they're using gallium in it, be sure not to get it anywhere but the die.
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I doubt it, i have a feeling they use the same packaging as the Conductonaut, which is their liquid metal paste and has gallium. The 1g tube packaging did not come with the Aluminium warning, only the larger tubes which use the same packaging as their Liquid metal TIM. Even their data sheet doesn't mention any gallium in Kryonaut, only in conductonaut.
Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Discussion in 'Gaming (Software and Graphics Cards)' started by Ethrem, Apr 24, 2016.