Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

I guess I better ask and find out for sure.

 

Yeah, i was about to shoot them an email as well. But my friend had this paste leak onto the components next to the GPU core, and has had no issues.

 

Makes me wonder if what's in the tube is what it says it is on the bag because the tube is not marked except for Thermal Grizzly.

 

Just checked with a friend who bought his tube in Canada, and his 11g tube did not come with the warning label. '
I have used like 5 x 1g tubes and 1 x 11g tube and have yet to see any problems, all of them have the same goop in them

 

I emailed Thermal Grizzly and they responded quickly, but interesting response:

" Hi HTWingNut,

don`t worry the warning letter was not for the Kryonaut. Is a mistake from the Packing Team in the Production.
Please notice that we let all our Products be packed by handicapped Worker, they are guided but mistakes can happend.
We do this to give some of our profit to people who have also right for work and a plesure life. We you can accept it.

Happy OC Record hunting with Kryonaut.
Be a Grizzly and recomment us to others, thanks.

best regards

Thermal Grizzly Service Team"

 

Haha , exact same reply to me as well lol.

 

Cool, just found this Kryonaut thread, I'd posted in another Kryonaut thread a couple of months ago - Kryonaut lowered my GPU temperatures by about 2 degC in comparison to previous mountings with Arctic Silver 5 (based on same room temperature & same testing method). After 3 months temperatures are still the same, so no degradation yet. I used the spread method, just like I did with previous Arctic Silver 5 mountings.

 

I made the stupid mistake of doing my CPU first. Expecting this stuff to be thick, I got way too much on there. Due to the expense of it I'm going to have to order a tube of GC Extreme and in the meantime, my temps are ridiculous.

It's definitely better than the garbage Sager had on the GPUs though but really, I think anything would be better than this

Spoiler

 

Holy **** was that the default paste?
But on the CPU i haven't noticed any issues with too much paste on it. But i usually use less than .75g.

 

Kryonaut should be a normal paste. Conductonaut should be the liquid metal paste.

 

That contact patch looks horrendous to me, heatsink looks like it's only making proper contact (and even then sketchy) in the middle of the GPU die.

 

Yeah my system is a mess as usual. Whatever the crap is that Sager used it even stained my heatsinks this nasty brown color, almost looks burnt. I also had to replace two screws on my master GPU that Sager had almost completely stripped. It's a good thing I ordered 6 of them from Eurocom way back when.

Yeah that was the default paste. Nasty right?

I obviously got way too much on the CPU... Idles in the 50s and even on max fans it runs about 8C hotter under load than my GC Extreme application did. I've had problems with thin paste like this with my machine before and it reminds me exactly of the consistency of MX-4 which pumped out basically immediately so I'll have to see. I should have enough left to redo the CPU.

 

I can see that you have been struggling with high temp. This was ugly.

I would still used ICD. Big gap between die and heasink isn't the best for thin soft paste.

 

Yes because Foxconn can't make a heatsink properly. I thought about removing the C clips from the CPU heatsink but it makes me nervous that I might crack the die if I mess with that. Either way, I'll probably go get a tube of GC Extreme for the CPU because it works amazingly well. I'm just tired of dealing with it. I really should have gotten the Alienware 18. Even with the M290X, I never would have had to deal with the 880M issues and the heat issues and I'd had a 4.3-4.5GHz 4930MX as opposed to not being able to even keep my 4940MX cool at 4GHz...

 

I do not remember if you have used ICD before... But @Mr. Fox had to use this in his Panther before he got hold of new cpu heasink with sucsess. I would used this paste. A very thick paste who fill the gap.

 

I've used it. It works for what it is but I generally find GC Extreme to shave off a few degrees and it's much easier to deal with plus it doesn't mar the die. I decided to give TG a try but it's obviously too thin to use with these garbage Foxconn heatsinks. It would probably be great in my desktop though but my GC Extreme is still holding strong there.

 

Maybe try this. In two size o.1 and 0.2mm thickness. You could also try one 0.2 and 0.1 on top if the gap is big http://www.coollaboratory.com/product/coollaboratory-liquid-metalpad-notebook/

 

I've thought about those. I'm just tired of dumping money into this machine. I know GC Extreme works but since I'm not using the laptop much at all now, it doesn't really seem worth it to keep fighting with it when I've got a perfectly capable 4790K desktop I can use.

 

I understand that. But had the laptop been your only choice... I would try the pads.

 

Have you checked to see if the problem is poor fit/contact with the die? If it is, try using 15mm x 15mm x 0.5mm copper shims on the die with Liquid Ultra on each side. You can get them dirt cheap on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231683057337?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

This heatsink actually seems to be pretty flat so it's possible CLU wouldn't be an issue, I just had a scare when I was removing it where a bead fell on the SLI cable that kind of put me off of using it again. Had it fallen somewhere else, I might have lost it in the machine. The application wasn't bad but removing it was a near disaster.

 

I've not had any major problems with it like that.

 

It beaded up on the qtip and when I went to throw the qtip away, the ball just fell off and onto the cable.

 

I used Q-tips all last night repasting. My CLU had actually dried up, it was a ridiculous mess to clean off, but once I got it off putting it on and removing it was just fine. All you should do is kind of soak the Q-tips in isoprophyl and then dab the CLU to get it to stick as a kind of grey paste instead of the silver balls that tends to fall off.

I had to redo my CLU like three times last night because somehow each time I'd get great temps on only half of my cores. But at least my stuff runs nice and cool once again. I've gotten decent at doing it.

 

Well when my 880M failed (the second time), I had my CLU on for less than a month - it even still had beads when I took the heatsink off - so it was basically the same consistency and had the same properties it did when I applied it in the first place. It would have been fine if it wasn't still fresh.

 

Well this is what I'm saying. I reapplied CLU at LEAST 3 times last night alone. This means I took off still-fresh CLU. I noticed the beads were being a pain but once I soaked the Q-tips in isoprophyl before trying to use them to wipe it off, it worked fine. No beads unless you use dry Q-tips; just make sure before you lift the Q-tip out of the CPU area that it's a kind of grey smear on the Q-tip rather than the silver substance, and you're golden.

Every time I had tried to re-do it last night, temps on one or two cores were super high, so I had to remove the freshly-applied paste. I literally applied --> turned on laptop --> turned on max fans --> ran TS8 --> Ran TSBench 1024M --> waited until 30% --> took off laptop if temps climbed fast on any single core --> reapply paste --> repeat process.

 

I was using alcohol soaked qtips but I made the mistake of thinking that little bead would stay. It was my fault for doing it while I was drinking really lol.

 

>_________>

Excuse me while I charge a kamehameha.

 

I don't use cotton swabs. I use the brush that comes with it and that works fantastic for me. I have to sort of scrub back and forth a bit it to get it started, then it lays down like paint. But, the stuff never beads up and doesn't fall off the brush. The Conductonaut and Phobya Liquid Metal is a lot more watery and it does not stay in place as well as Liquid Ultra, but all three seem to cool equally well. After using all three, my preference is still Liquid Ultra. It is more expensive, but worth it.

For removal, I do use cotton swabs and alcohol. I roll the stuff up in a ball in the center, then use a paper napkin for final cleanup. Once it is all removed, I go over the surfaces with alcohol wipes (like those used for injection prep). Once in a while I have a small dried clod on the copper heat plate that is stubborn, but the scuff pad and ultrafine sandpaper get that off easily enough and leaves me with a mirror finish. Getting it off the CPU die is never difficult.

The best way to avoid dropping clods of it some place it doesn't belong during cleanup (if that is a concern) is to remove the CPU or GPU.

 

You don't need to drink alcohol, although you have to use this for removing the old paste. En silly excuse to drink, LOL

 

Oh yeah, I was considering purely removal using the swabs. The brushes are great for getting it to spread. Wiping off the rest with a napkin or one of those like, baby wipes (when the stuff it's normally soaked in has dried up) is best. The dried up wipes leave no residue behind unlike napkins might. I would love to get some alcohol wipes though for prep. I end up using the same dried wipes or cotton swabs tipped in alcohol for prep; I kind of miss the Arcticlean set I used before. It was much easier, and dried up on its own real fast. Though more expensive than the alcohol stuff.

 

Hell yeah, that seems super messed up. I haven't seen anything this bad since my P4 days.
These are my idle temps @ 4.5Ghz using moderate Grizzly Kryonaut.


I should mention that i did Lap my processor IHS and the heatsink to make sure they are even. At first i thought my heat sink was warped, which it was. But even the new heat sink was somewhat warped. So i lapped it. But after that when placing the processor IHS flat, that a gap running straight through the middle. So i had to lap that as well and now they make perfect contact. The funny thing is that its the same on my stock back up 6700k. I assume its on purpose by intel? So that there is an even layer of TIM across the die contact area. Or maybe a bad batch ?
These are the temps after some benches :


And some AIDA64 on a rather hot day : (this was with old heat sink and non lapped IHS)


Before this when i first got my laptop, first thing i did was to remove ICD and change to GCE and i got an improvement of about 3-5C, but that improved further with Kryonaut.
Do not listen to the audio. Trust me its cancer. Scrub to 6:06

 

Yes, I think you have a heatsink shaped like a banana! I do remember you having temperature problems before, but I thought that was an older system of yours.

 

How did you lap your IHS and your heatsink? I'm skeptical by just using sandpaper and sanding it back and forth. IMO it's not possible to maintain the same pressure all over the time. So I would presume, if I did it, I wouldn't get a perfect flat Surface due to imbalanced use of pressure.

 

Stuck it to a smaller piece of plexiglass and did wet sanding @2000 grit. Very gently.

 

IC Diamond vs Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut @ 4.6 GHz on my 6700K

@bloodhawk @Mr. Fox @Papusan

Idle temps went down from 39C to 36C as well

IC Diamond:



Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut:

 

Thanks @Phoenix - basically same. But it's easier to apply and won't scratch die. Similar to my findings. Now that I have a fat tube of it when I'm up to it I may redo my desktop CPU with it too.

 

It all boils down to which of them who will pump out first. Kryonaut is thinner / softer and this is no advantage.

 

Agreed, was a massive fan of Gelid but appears IC Diamond lasts longer although initial drop in temps wasn't as much as gelid..

 

Yeah. If you for example need help from tech to apply paste because you're not so tech savvy. I would choose Icd. A lot of BGA machines isn't easy to open for repaste so a longlife paste is an advantage.

 

Agreed, I though Gelid was good but IC Diamond seems to last longer although Gelid Initially gives lower temps compared to it..

 

GC Extreme lasts long enough though. I still have my two year old GC Extreme paste in my desktop. It's on my 4790K which is running at 4.7GHz 24/7 and shows no signs of going any time soon.

 

It's all about what temperature you run 24/7. Compare desktop vs laptop isn't fair

 

I set my H100i fans on silent mode in ASUS' AiSuite so the temps run in the 60s and 70s and go up to the 80s with some games and crap. Basically laptop temps.

 

I think a lot of it comes down to how closely and evenly your heatsink mates with the CPU or GPU core - if everything's nice & flat then I think the Pumping Out Phenomenon doesn't happen regardless of how thin the paste is - with my GPU I think it's a very flat fit & I never see any pumping out of paste, and the Kryonaut is still holding strong after 4 months. I don't think I've ever experienced the pumping out of paste in the laptops I've had which I've repasted over the years (2 laptops).

 

THIS. If the contact is thin and even, the rapid cooling and heating up doesnt come into effect, but if there are thick and thin gaps then thick thin gaps will end up causing degradation. At least from my experience, the thicker areas tend to last longer and the thinner areas somewhat dry up.

 

Yes, I can imagine heating & cooling cycles contributing to the problem and enabling movement of the paste when things aren't even and flat with the heatsink & chip.

 

@Ethrem @bloodhawk @Papusan

Gonna repaste back with IC Diamond tonight, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut is worse....

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut:



IC Diamond:

 

Heh, try OCCT and your laptop will shut down in a couple of minutes

 

So the Kryonaut pumped out then? Well guess it's a good thing I'll have IC Diamond when it comes back from Sager.