Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

I had the 11gram tube and I could do 6 systems with a CPU and GPU and still have left but I dont know how much.

Gelid extreme pads are pretty decent. but the thickness depends the hardware that you want to use them on.

 

How long do you think you kryonaut will last before needing a repaste?
On the application method did you use a normal pea method or did you spread it evenly??? I read its better to spread for laptop heatsinks

 

Spread method is best.

 

I had Kryonaut on my Alienware M17xR3 2630QM CPU for over a year and it never decreased in cooling performance over that time. I since upgraded the CPU to a 2920XM sometime in the early part of this year & that has Kryonaut on again, with no degredation so far. Got Kryonaut on my desktop CPU too, for about 3/4 of a year, and no issues with degredation. I'm expecting to not need to ever repaste the CPU again on the desktop - Kryonaut specifications say that if paste stays below 80 degC during it's use on the CPU/GPU then it won't dry out at all ( http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/16-kryonaut-en).

I used spread method for Kryonaut using the applicator that comes with the syringe.

 

Maybe try Phobya NanoGrease Extreme as your heatsink isn’t perfect. More similar as ICD in viscosity vs. Kryonaut.

 

I did a spread application with the included spreading too.

Good to know. I sometimes do have spikes over 80c though when both my CPU and GPU are stressed to the fullest in the latest Assassins creed game. No clue why this happens in just this game. Normally I am between 65C and 75C for both my CPU and GPU under load.

Thanks for the tip, going to try it out

 

You think it is better than Gelid GC extreme for a CLEVO? I can't get any lower than 80c on my GPU core at 110W and with all heatsink/fan cavities sealed.

 

@Mr. Fox got good results with Phobya(see link in previous post). And it’s a thicker paste than Gelid. Hence better for ****y HS. Overall a very good thermal paste.

 

Since there doesn't seem to be a Conductonaut thread, I'll post this here:

Spoiler: Context/Backstory

I recently did a repaste of the laptop in my sig with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut.

Previously, I had a 2-year-old application of Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra on both CPU and GPU. I experienced no degradation in thermal performance over that period, with temps, depending on seasonal ambients, maxing out at 80-85C on the CPU in Prime95 8-thread Small FFTs non-AVX (about 55W of heat), and at 70-80C on the GPU in 100% gaming load (about 150W of heat).

I'm in the inland California Bay Area so ambient temperatures are mild throughout the year. The living environment is low dust, no smoking or pets (except a couple guinea pigs in a different room). I was diligent about blowing out the dust from the laptop every 3 months.

I had no reason to alter the CLU application given the steady thermal performance I was experiencing, but I wanted to replace the stock thermal pads on my VRAM chips with something better, for which I opted for 1.5mm Arctic thermal pads. So I figured I might as well order some Conductonaut at the same time and see if I could reduce temps further, since Conductonaut is listed as having double the thermal conductivity of CLU.

Spoiler: Cleaning off old CLU

The first, and hardest, step was getting the old CLU off. I had applied CLU to both the die, and the copper contact area on the heatsink. The CLU on the die was mostly still wet, and wiped off very easily with 90% rubbing alcohol soaked cottom swabs and coffee filters.

But getting it off the copper was a total PITA. The CLU had completely dried up and oxidized/bonded with the copper. I went through a lot of coffee filters and isopropanol, basically scrubbing over and over until the coffee filters stopped turning black, til the surfaces were relatively smooth again. Nevertheless, the silver cosmetic staining on the copper was permanent, and the CPU heatsink was still a little rough despite my best efforts. I tried 1 molar muriatic (hydrochloric) acid on the CPU heatsink, but it didn't help, just discolored the copper. I did not use a scouring pad or sandpaper on any of the heatsinks.

Spoiler: Applying Conductonaut

As for the application of Conductonaut after that, it was relatively straightforward and very similar to CLU in this regard. In terms of viscosity, Conductonaut is a lot more runny than CLU, almost like water, so it definitely requires a bit more discretion and finesse during application.

Along with the syringe of Conductonaut, Thermal Grizzly included two tips in the package, a thin metal applicator tip, and a bigger plastic tip for sucking up excess.

First I did the GPU. The first push of the syringe I gave with the applicator tip installed, a huge amount of the stuff fell on the die, much more than I intended. I spread it over the GPU anyway with the included cottom swab, but it was definitely too much and was pooling in places.

So I put on the plastic tip and tried to suck up the excess, but instead another big ball of Conductonaut came out and fell onto the motherboard. Yikes! Thankfully, I had used masking tape to cover up the vicinity of the CPU and GPU dies beforehand, so the liquid metal landed on the tape. Whew.

Because so much of the stuff had come out already, I capped the syringe and just used the Conductonaut on the GPU die and on the tape to paint over the remaining CPU die and copper contacts on the CPU and GPU heatsinks.

As an extra precaution, because Conductonaut is more runny than CLU, I used electrical tape to form a shield around the CPU and GPU dies. I did not do this previously with CLU.

Spoiler: Results

So after I closed everything back up and ran some burn tests, how did it look?

Identical temps to CLU, not even a single C of difference. LOL

Spoiler: TL;DR

Conductonaut performed identically to CLU for me, but was more difficult to apply.

 

I also heard the stories about how ****ty clevo heatsinks are ... But honestly when you experience it first hand it blows you away ... What I like about the machines compared to AW though is that they simply don't care temperature or power wise, they just keep pushing maximum performance but that sometimes can be dangerous if one is not careful.

You think ICD would perform better than GC in a CLEVO since it is thicker too? I have a tube laying around but don't wanna try lest I am sure because that thing scratches dies like crazy.

EDIT: Since I had time and wanted to waste some I repasted with ICD Vs Gelid I went down from 95C to 75C on the CPU in Cinebench 15 :O ... That viscosity is really critical!!!!

 

Becareful with ICD7, i have a non-shiny spot on my CPU die now after cleaning it off. I cleaned it off by first soaking it in 90% pure alcohol. Not sure if it is a scratch or a stain but cant get it off.

 

I had plenty of those over my previous usages of ICD that's why I hate using it but with the CLEVO it seems to be a necessity.

 

On my AW15R2 too. I think because one of the stock thermal pads is too thick and pushes the heatsink up a little bit on one side (vrm's).

 

I would recommend that you get a slimmer pad instead of being forced to use ICD.

 

difficult, they already use fairly thin pads but I also dont know which VRM row is causing the unbalance.

 

I suppose you could remove all the pads from the heatsink, put small balls of plasticine on each of your contact points (don't use thermal paste at this point), and then screw it together, then take it apart & measure the thicknesses of the now compressed plasticine - this could tell you the pad thicknesses required. I think I learned this one from @MickyD1234 , but never tried it myself, think this is how it can be done.

 

thats an excellent tip. thank you! Luckily i have 2 heatsinks so i can strip one for testing (with the identical core temperatures).

 

Cool, let us know how you get on!

 

You could try K5 PRO if you can't find the perfect pads size. A lot of people have success with it.

 

I would recommend only for 1mm or thinner gap for k5 pro.

 

Yeah, You have pads alternatives for bigger gaps. I thought more about the smallest gaps, aka more difficult to find correct pads to fix the flaws.

 

If you want to play roulette get alienware.

Every single heatsink is different so you require different thickness for each vrm/vram/motherboard chip

 

Will do, when I am back from my business trip I will try to document it.

Thanks for the tip. Going to look into it.

The thickest pad on the AW15R1 and 2 are I think 1mm.

 

@rinneh , quoting my own post just 'cause I wanted to add something to it & for you to read it. When you measure the thickness of the squashed plasticine to determine pad thickness, don't forget to allow for pad compression, I think pad compression is anything up to 50%. So if plasticine is showing 1mm, then your pad would want to be something like 1.5mm or 2mm max (might depend also on consistency, ease of squashing of pad too, hard pads aren't gonna compress easy).

 

That was when the heatsink was still okay due to having 4 screws.

Nowadays with tripod and uneven pressure, not going to be that consistent from machine to machine.

 

No big deal. Other than not looking shiny, it doesn't affect performance.

 

How does tgk compare to icd

 

TGK is better than ICD in terms of W/mK(thermal conductivity) But ICD or Phobya Nanogrease holds upper hand if HSF is warped.

 

It's the worst thermal paste I've used. The temps were identical to ICD for the first 5 days then temps started rising up slowly so I got fed up and put Liquid Ultra and was happy since then

 

Maybe bad luck. Was it a clevo or MSI?

 

So your saying icd is the worst?

I'm looking for thermal paste that will actually lower my temps. Any suggestions

 

Probaly both.

Phobya NanoGrease Extreme

 

General opinion is to stay away from ICD because it scratches the bare die. Alternatives would be Gelid extreme, Phobya nanogrease extreme, TGK.

 

Use this guide http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...nd-apply-traditional-and-liquid-metal.806840/

 

Been almost 10 months since I last applied Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut on both CPU and GPU on my GT73VR and so far its been performing well.

Been playing BDO on my laptop so I keep it on 24/7 (not minimized).

On the weekends I may stream a game on twitch.

I've played 2 games at once while (BDO + Destiny 2 + OBS) streaming lol...

But haven't had any thermal problems so I'm a happy camper here.

 

Phoebe or tgk.

 

Both are good. See which paste fits your budget.

 

I will never buy after budgett when it comes to thermal paste. Never ever!!

 

I didn't mean that way. 20-30$ for 1g TGK is too much. You really can't hope for TGK or Phobya NGE to be priced below $5. So best price is 8-15$ for 1g is okay for me.
Sorry if I offended you.

 

Hey guys,
Sorry to bump up an older post.
Thinking of moving from Gelid GC to Kryonaut (similar / better price in the UK for the latter). Gelid has been okay, and quite easy to apply. Just got questions for anyone who might have used both.

-In terms of appearance: e.g. color, texture - does Kryonaut look more similar to the stock paste (e.g. than say Gelid)? We've got a few ultrabooks in the office. Generally, we have to reapply it for colleagues who prefer quieter laptops (the stock paste is terrible). Though where possible, would still like for the replacement paste, to look similar to the stock paste (gelid is a bit light colored).

-Also does the Kryonaut always look fresh (I think someone mentioned if it's kept under 80 degrees c - it doesn't dry). Usually, if a system has a problem we have onsite people servicing it (they don't seem to mind); though say if the laptop had depot warranty instead - they might not be as nice about it if they notice the paste look fresh.

 

Do what now? You apply the thermal paste, slap the heatsink back on, and use the computer. Why do you care how it looks?

with that said, my experience with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut was not good. It was ok for the first few days then the temps started rising by 1C like every day until it reached a point where I had to remove it after 5 days.

I suggest you use IC Diamond if you don't want a thermal liquid metal. It stays for long and has decent performance.

The best liquid metal right now is Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut although not recommended for machines which you need to move around a lot.

 

Gelid Extreme have higher vicosity (thicker consistency and not so soft creamy as Kryonaut). Grizzly Kryonaut ain't a good choice if your heatsink is warped, uneven fits or the thermal paste usually don't have long lifespan due pump out.

 

Kryonaut is quite thin & creamy white coloured. I've got in on both my desktop & laptop for the past 1.5yr & 2yr respectively, and I've not seen any reduction in performance and it's been the best performing paste I've used. Having said that, the heatsinks sit very flat on both my desktop & laptop, so I can't comment on the pump out issues that some others have seen - I've just not had that issue. Yes, the Kryonaut is not supposed to dry up 'ever' if kept below 80 degC - it's never dried up on me before, but I've only disassembled a Kryonaut application once, and that was after 6 months only.

 

Stick with GC Extreme. The difference will be almost NIL. 80C is very good.

 

Yeah in general all the high end pastes are so close together to begin with. CM Mastergel maker nano, Nanogrease, ICD7, Kryonaut etc.

The things that differentiate these pastes is mostly only with poor fitting heatsinks.

 

Hi all!

Just finished my Threadripper build and had a few questions as this is my first AMD build since the... Athlon 64 X2 back in 2006.

Here's my build:
Motherboard: ASRock - X399M
CPU: AMD - Threadripper 1950X
CPU Cooler: Enermax Liqtech TR4 II 240CPU
CPU Thermal Paste: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 (TIMING: 14-14-14-34)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB AORUS
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280
Secondary Storage: Crucial - MX500 1TB M.2-2280
Power Supply: Silverstone - SFX 800W-LTI
Case: Cerberus 18L MicroATX PC Case

1. What's a standard idle temperature for the 1950x under a 240 rad cooling system? Right now I'm sitting at 63C in the BIOS and I'm not entirely sure if that is correct, seems high...
2. The Thermal Paste seemed overly thick and extremely difficult to spread (took me like 10 minutes to fully spread it over the CPU). I had to use the whole tube and it seemed like JUST enough to cover the CPU with a thin layer. Is this normal or did I get an old batch of paste and should use something different? I'm open to anything. The thermal paste seemed like it was 2 or 3 times the consistency of toothpaste (It was sticking to itself and when I would pass that spatula over it, it would roll up and pull itself off of the CPU). Seemed more like a silly putting if anything or a Play-Doh. Something about it just felt off as I was used to using IC Diamond and figured I'd giving this stuff a shot.

Thanks everyone in advance for your responses!

 

That doesn't seem right at all. Kryonaut is pretty runny.

 

Now that I went to their website, I see they have a new application bottle, the one I got was a very small tube that looked like a normal thermal paste tube. It was also a very dark grey, definitely not as light as I think it should have been which makes me think this thermal paste was SUUUPER old and I need to get a refund from Amazon and order some new stuff.

This is what I got


This is what I think I should have gotten?

 

Thermal Grizzly products are supposed to come in black tubes. That looks like someone took a generic paste and slapped a Thermal Grizzly sticker on it. I'd get a refund.

 

Smaller tube.
https://www.caseking.de/thermal-grizzly-kryonaut-waermeleitpaste-1-gramm-zuwa-145.html

https://www.caseking.de/marken/thermal-grizzly