Definite solution to the nvlddmkm video crash on the P-7805u!

Check your GPU temps. If they are going above 80 then yes, some new TIM should help you out with that. I do it once every year.

 

After having done that, I am unfortunately still being plagued by this issue. I've almost given up hope

 

Ok, just to be sure, you are plagued by the shut down issue with the driver? if so most times it is the memory 2D-3D timing issue and heat too. once the heat issue is eliminated go after the timing issue by being sure the card stays in 3D timing.

Now as the card ages the memory bets weaker. At some point it may no longer like 3D timing. You will know this for sure if by running on battery only there is no crash as then it is usually stuck in 2D memory. Now this also runs it cooler meaning this could cause the system to now be more stable. This is why you HAVE too eliminate a heat issue first................

 

I re-applied thermal paste using ICD7 and eliminated the heat issue. During intense gaming the card only rises to around 70C, when it beforehand rose as high as 80-90Cs in a hot environment.

I reverted back to driver version 197.16 and it seems to crash much less than the latest driver (289.something, I forget). But I still don't know what the issue is.

 

This. This is my problem. I have removed heat issues and all that, but I may have got to it too late. Is there a way to force 2D memory? Or a way to replace whatever may be broken? I own the P-7805u and I also made my own thread the other day about my problem because I couldn't find a solution: http://forum.notebookreview.com/gat...7805u-black-screen-crash-during-gaming-2.html

I tried the flashing method a while back with no success. I could try it again because i'm not sure if i did it right, but i put everything back to normal after it crashed again.

 

The only way it seems to fix it indefinitely is a mobo swap... This thread is epically long without a definite fix for some people.

 

I would like to increase my GPU voltage since I believe undervolting is causing me more errors than before. How do I do this?

Edit: Nevermind. I just decided to raise it back to 1.12v.

 

So if previously using Rivatuner and setting it always to performance mode...

Is this the recommended solution?

 

After applying new thermal paste and raising voltage back to 1.12v, I've not had a crash since.

 

Here is my story. A few months ago I got Limbo and started playing then noticed that the video card was under clocking because of heat issues, checked the temperatures and 80 to 90 Cº. The game is somewhat stressing on GPU but not that bad as other games. Since I barely played any games on the lappy I never had any issues, but after this incident with limbo I started having issues with other games like reckoning, the feared black screen, it was bad that I stopped playing out of frustration. I bumped with another post in here and there got a modded bios for the GPU with lower voltages in extra mode, this way it would never go above .9v this helped for some time, few weeks later the problem came back, finally I grabbed my vacuum cleaner set it in blow mode and did a clean up of the vents, also partially disassemble the laptop and cleaned the best I could (don't want to take it all apart) temperatures where better but the issue persisted, so I reinstalled Win 7 and waited to get my Diablo 3 copy and then black screen of horror, that led me to this post, got the files from andros but instead of flashing the modified bios I flashed the original one (lost my backup due to dead usb stick) then flashed motherboard with bios 9C.17 (was using 9C.23) and got the latest gpu drivers from nvidia (not beta) and that fixed the problem. Now playing D3 on highest settings and 1900x1200 (I think, not typing this from the laptop) and temps not more than 60Cº.

My Recommendations:

- As TANWare recommends get rid of your heating issues by any means necessary (I live in a dessert with ambient temps going as high as 50ºC on the shadow) so I keep my laptop near the AC and well ventilated using a metallic laptop stand also maintaining the cooling system is important.

- Recognize the difference between GPU bios and motherboard bios, the GPU bios is the one edited by andros and available in this post, the motherboard bios is available in one of the sticky post in here. What worked for me is 9C.17 because keeps the system cooler and the original GPU bios (in andros zip, remember to use winrar) but if you are not gaming or not stressing the gpu then andros modified bios should be a good option for you.

- If you decide to flash you card by any reason take this precautions. Back up your original bios, only edit your backup (Nibitor) and create .bat files to flash this way you can recover from a bad flash more easily, also and very important is to learn or configure your boot order in case of a bad flash, lets say you are using usb stick to boot into DOS then learn in what position your usb is in the boot order when you press F10 to enter it, also learn the timing to recognize when you need to press F10 and when DOS is ready to take a command, write down your .bat file names and you are ready to do a blind GPU bios recovery.

- Use a voltage regulator, this is so simple but sometimes overlook, variations in voltage can damage and create problems in your system.

- Do not overclock/underclock or change your voltages unless you have exhausted other options, like checking your power supply, updating drivers, fresh system install, etc

Sorry for long post but I hope it helps.

Special thanks to andros and TANWare.

 

Yeah, the .23 is horrid for heat. 17 is much better just be sure to switch to the legacy 1394 driver with Win7. I never had the issue(s) but again I was always doing the CPU and GPU cleanings. Not being a gamer I probably wouldn't get to see them as much either..............

 

Question, my GPU Voltages seem to be alternating back and forth from 0.90V - 1.12V while plugged in, is that normal?

 

Yes, that's normal. It goes to 1.12 when stressing the gpu.

 

So I have have a P7805u for a while now, and been using the the rivatuner fix for about 2 years now and never had any crashes until recently when I start to get the black screen, (not the crash though, I can still use the computer but the screen is black and I need to restart,) I've tried fiddling with the voltages, Powermizer, underclocking, and i still get the black screen. Its not even high gpu usage that causes it to black screen, some times it black screen while just on the desktop with only word running. The only way that the computer does not blackout is if I'm running on battery power, but once I plug in the adapter, it crashes in short order.

I don't doubt that my gpu is on it's death bed, but if there anything I haven't tried yet?
Anything would be helpful.

 

I doubt it is as well, at leat the GPU chip. if you have been using the bios of rivatuner fix you have ben avoiding the 2d-3d memory clock issue. If you over clock the memory try running stock clocks to see if that helps. When you run battery you are stuck at 2D speeds...........

 

Is there any way to force 2D speeds when plugged in? At this point I really just care about stability more than performance. And for the Rivatuner fix, do you just mean forcing it on performance mode or something else?

 

Right the riva tuner fix is to do just that. if you use Nvidia tools you can declock the memory speed, not surewhat settings you would need though.

 

hi guys, i have a similar behavior on the p-79** as user's pppp22 case.
stable in battery, driver crash-recovery when plugged (until it blue-screens with nvlddmkm signal)

right now i am trying to extract the vbios but i have difficulties since i am new to that stuff. what program should i use?

is any other 260m user having the same issue?

 

So far so good here, no crash. Now are you also overclocking? I also hate to beat a dead horse but I see you have a QX9300 so are you also running a better brick than stock? I mean even the Killer N will want to use up more power.

Once way to test this power issue is declock and undervolt the CPU to say 2.4 GHz and 1.0050 volts. See if this reduces or eliminates the crash issues. Also stock clock the video, now if you were overclocking the video before it could be the parts are just electronically worn out.................

 

Hi TANWare, thanks for your answer. I am using a 19V 7.1A (135W)power brick used for the packard bell quad core board:
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I have done these:
-Dust-free airducts
-Lowered the CPU to the smallest voltage and clock as you said
-Disabled Powermizer
-lowered the clocks bellow stock of the gpu when on performance 3D mode (nvidia control panel)

I have not been able to extract the vbios in order to modify the voltage.
GPU-Z wont do because it does not support mobile cards (as i read)
rivatuner wont work (not sure why)
nvflash i read it wont work because on w7 64-bit

I have not tried nvflash under DOS (dont know how)

I baked the motherboard one time already and it worked with no problems for a week. After that time the crash came back with a vengeance!

 

The 260m should not have a solder issue. Baking of the MB too reflow is the solder issue not that of the memory issue. The lock up of the video usually is a resource conflict or power issue. If you have declocked the CPU to where power would not be an issue that leaves the resources as a next best guess.

Have you tried disabling the wireless card? I had a 7600m that refused to co-operate with an Atheros card in an Everex system. Switched it to an intel card and no more lockups. This could have been true of the baking as this may have reset the DMI table and temporarilly fixed your issue.

I know this looks to be grabbing at straws but I've yet to see a 260m with a solder issue. Not that it couldn't be, I have a deep rooted hate of nvidia and would love to see more problems for them. As far as the supply the link provided claims 120w not 135, these bricks just can't cut it for all the add ons you have.

I have included my IRQ structure...............

Edit the Targus 180w, and trust me under load it gets a workout, is rated at 19v and 9.5a...............

 

I removed the wifi card completely and it will still crash.

Find attached the IRQ structure

The strange thing is that under ubuntu the laptop has no problem!

Actually, I must admit that i did not describe the full story! (like a House
patient )

The reason i baked the mobo was because one day while I was in spain this June the laptop was with black screen and will not go after POST. Since I already had the gpu driver crashes I thought it had to be something gpu-related. So, by the time I returned to Ireland I went to a tech-shop and asked for a reball of the gpu. They did the reball but the black screen was still there.

I was this close to get a new mobo when I decided that i have nothing to lose, so i baked it! And it worked!

No black screen, it would boot normally and additionally no driver crashes!
The joy lasted for 7-8 days and the crashes came, this time even more frequently!

So, as you can see I am totally confused!

What is the cure doctor?

EDIT: about the power brick: you are correct the site says its 120W but if you do the multiplication (19V x 7.1A) you get the effective watts. Well at least thats what is noted in the specs of the brick!

 

If a reball did not fix it but a baking reflow did then it is not a GPU reflow issue. The reball is the proper fix to replace the improper solder media. With more to the story I would have to defer your issue to other components.

Before that though I have to say the OEM bricks are 120 watt and barely can handle that well. while supposedly they can do 135-150 peak wattage they do not do this cleanly. meaning there are dips and spikes to the voltage. This is like having sporratic brown outs and power spikes within the computers internals.

Now to the probable issue, that is the internal CAPs in the system. They are there not only to help keep continued constant power to the needed rails of the components (CPU, GPU, HDDs, PCI bus etc.) they are there to absorb the power shifts. The cleaner the original power the less stress on the CAPs. You probably have over heated them and some may even be just about ready to blow out.

The other problem is even with a new brick this may not cure the issue. Now the brick has CAP(s) as well so there is no garenty it will not help. I would suggest a new and better brick though for future usage.

The cure may just be a new main board and possibly power board. My memory doesn't seem to have encountered CAPs there of any significance on the power board though. Now you could look into replacing the orginal CAPs but this then assumes I am correct in that it is the caps and without proper testing you would have to replace all the CAPs. I am sure this would be quite a task and could still prove unfruitfull.

One other thing to try, since you said a baking helped. It involves a full tare down though. Look over the main board well and try to find the bad solder joint(s) I had a sony TV that had a bad cap the the solder joint was obvious. If you find it don't just reflow by replacing the solder but replace the component as well. If you do so be sure to replace it with at least the same or if you can even a better one.

Again without testing this is my best guess. I could be way off and maybe there is something more to the story that would have lead my guess to something else. Maybe some one else has a better grain of salt to offer you.........................

Edit; if I had to guess the ciruitry involved it is where the system breaks the 19v to 12v to match the battery. Now this includes the bricks circuitry as it is before the break down as well. The 12v rail probably is direct to the GPU without further breakdown. Essentially the battery does not need those CAPs as the battery acts as a huge cap on its own. Again all my best guess..............

 

More updates of my case:
windows7 will get driver crashes even on battery now
linuxs (ubuntu) started to experience graphical glitches on browsing or
gpu-intensive operations (got a couple of system hangs-hard reboots)

Since the gpu got a reball (assuming it was a proper job) did not
fix the black screen/pre POST hang
and since a full motherboard reflow fixed this issue (even temporarily)
I suspect that the next logical candidate for causing an issue is the northbridge not being able to regulate voltages correctly (i even asked for
a reball of the northbridge at the same store that presumably did the gpu and they told me its the LAN CARD. when i asked them why it needs, well dunno, HEATSINKS they did not answer and just asked 25eu for their failed work)
As a pointer, in the HWmonitor the TZS0 gives a max temp of 90C (actually stuck there during gaming for eg.) Is this sensor for the northbridge?

anyway, thank you for the interest!

Edit; the bower brick is new (the previous one was overheating and had to put passive cooling on it) I will get in a few days/week a targus 180W

 

The lan card can be an issue and notice it is the same IRQ as the video. You could try disabling it but if it is a hardware issue with the card it can still cause issues. Looking at the picture from the dissambly guide the LAN is integrated to the main board. Not good news if that is the issue.

The NB can get "stuck" as you had mentioned. It isn't that it is that temp just the register gets stuck. This especially was true on the older P7811's. Gateway seemed to have increased some cap specs that helped this out on future revisions but I think the bug is still there when you push higher end CPU's on our system. I should mention that my TSZ never got stuck with the x9100 power requirements but with the quad core I can push it that far.

I hope the targus 180 helps a bit I just worry it is too late. Once damage is done it can't be undone without replacement of those components. If the original brick was overheating that badly an exact replacement is not a good idea as you will eventually be right back where you are.

Now it may just be coincedence but people with the P7805's and newerof the FX machines that used the Targus 180w early on have not been here to report an issue yet. I am not sure of the 7811's if there has been anyissues but those first gen 9800m's are suspecrt of nvidia issues at best and again the TSZ known issue.

The P79xx has the USB power issue no matter the brick. Even though the brick pupplies the power some where inside the power just does not make it properly to all usb ports. I know of mine with the Targus has one underpowered port.................

 

Now, I don't know if this has any bearing on the matter, but I'm going to suggest it. I have been through all of these types of posts since 2009 when I bought my machine, the Gateway FX P7805u. Initially, the Powermizer switch worked, and I had no problems, even when updating the driver. I have noticed, however, that lately, I have been having a lot of issues. I recently upgraded my RAM from 4GB to 8GB. Is it possible that this could be causing the issue?

Currently, I've reinstalled the currently suggested driver by nvidia (296.10), I've left the settings for Power Management Mode as Adaptive, and I manually entered the Powermizer registry entries, to disable it on AC power.

I took out a RAM stick, leaving a 4GB one in, and I was able to play WoW no problem. I then shutdown, and put the other stick in, and again, I am playing WoW with no issues. I have been monitoring using HWMonitor, and GPU-Z, there is no downclocking issues, or voltage decreases unless I remove the power supply.

I do have the cover for the RAM slots off from the bottom of the laptop, and I *think* that I have switched the memory stick positions (sorry, I've been at work all night), and I was unable to repeated the driver crash.

So, I guess what my question/idea is, perhaps the increase of RAM somehow is conflicting with driver?

 

Besides timing and other system memory issues there are power and heat. On the 1.5V rail more power is consumed than with the stock stick(s) and probably more heat too. Another issueis nVidia uses some ram as a texture buffer. With 8GB over 4GB the available dynamic memory buffer size is enlarged. I think though people have had the lockup issues even ALL stock.

 

Hi, thiss user was having issues with 296.10 but moved to 295.73 and has had better success. Maybe driver versions can help some of you guys too.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/windows-os-software/680423-help-w-bsod.html

 

6 months without a black screen crash. Went through July and 100+ degree temperatures with only my fan helping to cool it and it ran rock solid, never failed.

A week ago playing in GMOD... BLACK SCREEN. Then I updated the drivers and now it black screens whenever I move in GMOD. I once left GMOD on for 7 hours and never crashed.

It was a wonderful 6 months.

DO NOT UPDATE YOUR NVIDIA DRIVER TO LATEST VERSION. Screen tears, distortion, utter nonsense. I need to downgrade now.

Just a word of warning.

 

Ok, for anyone interested, listen up. I bought a new laptop, but while I waited for it I tried to fix the P7805U.

I fixed it. I don't know if it will work for you, but here's what I did.

I used the Nvidia 295.73 driver, the latest version caused serious problems. I then used RIVATUNER with 3d performance.

The GPU has not crashed once since I did it. It played fallout 3 for 5 hours without a problem. When previously it would crash almost every 5 minutes. I went through mass effect 3 non stop without a crash. It has never functioned as well as it has since I went to 295.73 and rivatuner. The cons? Frame rate losses are more frequent, but liveable.

All I can say is try it. It seems to have worked for me.

 

Well TheLongWarderer good thing your FX got fixed. This machine will run without problems if you take care of it.
Also I got the newest NVIDIA update and I haven't got any tearing or any weird stuff while playing games. =)

 

Some report issues, not everyone. Not sure why this is I just reported it to be the case. The 3D memory timing issue is well known with the 9800m variant of our cards. Not sure if other systems with the cards have the issue but again their vBios could be setup differently etc..........

 

Andros_forever - I need your assistance. I'm not exactly fluent with this stuff and would like to ask if you could assist me in fixing my overheating GPU issue. I can't seem to find any program that will work to edit the GPU voltage down to .9 while on AC power.

Please contact me, I'm dying over here!

 

Is this related to my posting #1673 on thread "Official Gateway 78xx Series FX BIOS - 9c.05.00 thru 9c.17.00 " ( http://forum.notebookreview.com/gat...ies-fx-bios-9c-05-00-thru-9c-17-00-a-168.html ) having to do with the overheating of the GPU on P-78 laptops including my P-7805u FX.

I have upgraded my CPU to the T9900 from the P8400. I have upgraded the Adapter, NVIDIA GeForce 9800M GTS, to driver version "9.18.13.1422". Both of these components are not OEM, not necessarily supported by Gateway. The socket on the Intel component motherboard does support this CPU. The video driver is supported by NVideo for this integrated video adapter. After some months and playing of games, I am getting a random black or black screen to my both of my monitors, the laptop LCD and external Gateway monitor FHD2400. Bloggers have posted that the GPU is overheating with the latest BIOSes, "9C.20.00", "9C.23.00", and "9C.25.00", the last of which Gateway has rolled back from and no longer supports. Many users claim the newer BIOSes control the fan on demand where the fan turn on at 80C. The "9C.17.00" operates differently, as I understand it, running in periodic or fluctuating way which cools better but might consume more power. Many users claim a retro move back to BIOS version "9C.17.00" is the answer. Something else I read indicated or suggested that "9C.17.00" misread the temperature of the GPU; a blogger suggested the source of this information was from Gateway.

Given this, either your move in changing the BIOS or a move back to BIOS version "9C.17.00" appears to be the only answers available.

Is your solution a modification to the "9C.17.00" BIOS? Or, is there another BIOS for the GPU on the motherboard.

If you read my other post, you will find mention of a hotfix to BIOS "9C.25.00" for Windows XP and Windows 7/8. But, Gateway has rolled back from the BIOS, and I have no knowledge as to why.

Your thoughts are appreciated.

 

Again see my other post. I've included memory timing issues there as well.

 

I just wanted to say thank you!

I've been looking for a solution to this issue for awhile now, and I'm glad I was able to find a specific solution to my problem. Thanks to you!

 

We are glad to have helped.

 

Hey guys. I've been a P7805U user since day 1 and have been through the a lot of the same stuff you have been reporting. I thought I'd share my experience.

Like a lot of other folks, I have encountered the black screens of death in various forms. From my experience it's kind of like a cancer, you start to get the first symptoms and have to make sacrifices to keep on living.

I got my P7805u in December of 2008 and got lucky with the beautiful 1920x1200 display. I have made several upgrades to it, including 8 GB RAM, Intel T9900 CPU, and Windows 8.1 x64. I had experimented with the different BIOS' but ended up staying on 9C.17. About the time of my Windows 8 upgrade, I started getting the BSODs while playing DayZ, which is an Arma 2 mod. Arma 2 is an incredibly taxing game, and not surprised this is the one that did it. Shortly after I started having the problems I did some research and found the RivaTuner fix. Helped me out alright, but the performance was never the same. That lasted me for about 2 years.

Fast forward to about a month ago, I started getting the BSOD even when not running games. Over the past week, it does like others have described before, as soon as you plug in the PSU the screen blacks out and the 9800M GPU crashes (you can tell because the CPU fan is still on but the GPU is silent). If I run on battery however, it's fine.

So I took the massive leap and followed the instructions on youtube to perform a disassembly. It took me about 3 hours. I cleaned out the CPU and GPU fans and heatsinks, and replaced all TIM with ICD7. When all was said and done, I about cried when I powered back on to see nothing had changed. While I was in the process of taking apart the laptop I happened upon this thread, and thought I'd give it a shot if the cleaning didn't help any. So I loaded Andros' modified GPU BIOS, which also didn't fix the issue.

I about gave up until I figured I'd open RivaTuner and try one more thing - Force Constant Performance Level - Standard 2D. I knew I'd be absolutely destroying any real gaming capability (maybe with the exception of Fallout 1 and 2, original X-COM, and Age of Empires II) but it was better than having my trusty old pal totally dead.

I'm happy to report that I'm writing this post on my P7805u, plugged in. It's been plugged in for about 5 hours now and no crashes. I even loaded up a few games to really stress test it. Sure enough the frame rates reported by Fraps were pretty lousy, but it still kept on chugging. It may be that eventually even this band-aid craps out and I've got nothing, but for now it seems to be working.

I'd thought about trying to track down a Targus PSU or maybe even go so far as to get a P7915U mother board, but I don't think it's really worth the effort. The rig is aging and it's probably time to get some newer hardware. I'm not convinced the higher power Targus PSU would make any difference anyways.

Hopefully this helps some folks out. I'll subscribe to the thread and keep an eye out for any updates.

 

At this point it will not. The memory is essentially done for, I doubt even baking it will help as it is the memory chips. Something early on seem to doom them with the switching between 2d and 3d speeds and once they start going that is about it. About the only thing you can do early on is get the 180w psu to clean up the power and early on prevent the 2d to 3d memory speed switch as much as possible.

Going to a 79xx board will give you 10% or better GPU than an the 9800m. if can be done on the cheap I would say go for it. This especially since you have the 1920x1200 as there are no real options for that res out there.

Another thing too is the P79 boards are tanks. While there are rebuilt P78xx's all over the P79 rebuilt board really is not out there. By default they all seem to be able to handle the power requirements of the C2Q over the C2D and I can attest you need a lower vCore setting for the same overclocks on a x9100. Problem was the single pipe heat sink design on the CPU in running a hot quad core, even a fully loaded up stock one.

Even though under low usage, my P79xx fully upgraded runs like a true champ. In the end there are supposed rebuilt P78 boards out there, IMHO that is a gamble though.