xps1330 copper mod would work on a fx ?

s hit i want to go out today and get that copper! but everything is closed i think cause of thanksgiving

 

it's already thanksgiving out there???????

 

lol yes "out there", ours is usually much earlier and way less advertised then the american one. Im raiding my house as we speak for copper..

 

check out here...this might give you some ideas where to find some copper laying around...

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&style=A&rpp=48

 

Im waiting on my copper cuts to come in..should be here tuesday nars, the first page has a link where you can order the cuts, per your needs, for next to nothing. I think it was less than $1 U.S. per cut.

oh, and I didnt have any luck finding a local sotre to cut copper.. however, most builders supply stores do sell these copper pipe u clamps.. They are shaped like a horseshoe and are flat metal, usually they're used to hold pipes against the interior of walls..plumbing an stuff. Try punching a hole in the wall in your shower, and there is likely one holding your tubing to some 2x4 studs. Otherwise, maybe in the attic or basement, depending on which you have.

 

I second this.

 

well i punched an uber big hole in my wall, only to find aluminum piping. mom was not happy, because we were under the pretense we would have copper piping for our showers.

 

well, that's not cool....

 

Your mom seems very unreasonable. I see no reason as to why she would get mad.

 

you got me interested now dook... is aluminum piping good?

 

Does anyone have some before/after temps with this copper mod thing?
I would like to bring down temps on my northbridge / GPU.

 

I achieved about 10c cooler gpu with the copper mod.

Cu has better thermal conductivity than Al

 

did you use any compound or just surface to surface?

 

Sandwiched in AS5.

Ive posted the full results somewhere.. like 5 months ago

 

yes...hard to keep up with them 6,800 post. *LOL*

 

i dont have time to do all this guys, is there an easier mod? i was just gonna replace the pads with some AS5....guess i cant do that cuz it leaves space, but is there something else i can do that doesnt require cutting sheets of copper and lapping it.

 

nope, not that i can think of

 

nars, it is ok if ya have aluminum piping..and lapped and tailored aluminum is still better than aluminum foil, when it comes to the northbridge.. Copper is only 150% more effective. Oh, and try punchin a hole in the wall behind the kitchen sink..you may find luck there.

 

Does anyone have a heatsink that resembles the pics below? It's from a 7811FX, actually.. I just picked up one from BBuy, and it is the 9c.05 BIOS model..I had one originally, a while back with this heatsink and haven't seen it since. It seems to have solved my TZS0 problem with the x9100. I still cant OC the GPU though, unless undervolting. But, just wandering if anyone else has the same heatsink.

 

nope. none of mine had them 2 little screw type holes on them. and it wasn't crooked either. it was straight.

 

Mine is the same exact one part number and all E-, although i have not lifted it yet to see if the underbelly of it is crooked like yours .

 

Looks like it's tilted to keep the rivits off of the CPU die. I wouldn't worry about it, probably just a different heatsink manufacturer.

 

yeah..but more importantly, look at the size of the heat dissipator for the northbridge chip. The dissipator is much thicker, more fins(not lil studs), and much wider. Im thinking this may be why TZS0 is in check, and not flippin out on me when I run anything intense. It can actually transfer the heat away from the Chipset!

 

Ya it could be what your saying E-, although ultimately ours may just do a better job , but not completely solve the problem more like just slow down the process . Mine finally throttled again the other night after 2 hours of Bioshock overclocked with the settings in your sig but heck for a 2 hour run thats not bad . i just minimized the game for 2 minutes and went back at it.

 

Well, that's not too shabby..considering the x9100 draws a good bit more power, and creates more heat.. that's why it tends to throw tzs0 for a loop so easily. You're not running RAID are you? I wonder what would be the temp difference with 9c.05 and 9c.08 BIOS. Guess I'll check and find out. I removed RAID from this one, cause I had to. So, lemme run some tests today and I'll figure out if the BIOS or the Sink is the cause of my problems..

 

Nope not running raid . Now i cant remember if the first time i saw it throttle was before or after i updated the bios .

 

Just for that reason, I replaced the heatsink on my 7811 with the one from an older batch. The heatsink difference makes difference in the TZS0. I had more than 10 of these upgraded but other than undervolting nothing really helped with the issue. Undervolting only delays the spike. The interesting thing is when I run orthos the temp of TZS0 does not go to 98 at all. But whne ever run the 3dmark06, it gets there in few seconds. I wish I had my wifes computer here so that I could show you the picture of it. The heatisnk has the copper mod by default. So when you change the CPU no need to use AS5 or anyhting else. Everything on the p-7811 other than the specs on a sheet is cheap. Decent GPU with heating issue, decent screen with ghosting issue, decent hdd with overheating, decent price with alot of pain. But again, you can not hit 10K 3dmark06 for this price at any other brand.

Just one suggestion for your x9100. Push the heatsink down as hard as you can without breaking the mobo. You may delay the TZS0 issue.

 

So Alitunay are you getting the TZS0 spike even without OCing the GPU ? .

 

i have that heatsink.

 

Well, I ran 3dmark with 9c.05 BIOS and no throttling.. installed 9c.08, and it throttled. 9c.07 throttles. Didnt try 9c.06, but have a feeling it may throttle. There was a new kernel installed with 9c.06, and maybe that's the cause of it. Either way, I'm gonna stick with the 9c.05 BIOS til I go back to RAID. And, I still intend to do the copper mod, whenever the supplies arrive.

 

Well thats interesting to know . Have you Oced the GPU yet ? Oh and can you post 9c.05 when you get a chance if you dont mind .

 

with all this testing...has anyone tested it while on battery yet? to see if it downthrottles...

 

John i have never played a game on battery on my 7811 . i had tried it in the past on my 6860 and it crapped out on me after about 15 minutes of playing so i didnt even bother trying
with my new machine .

 

just need to know if it downclocks and stays down clocked while on battery...

 

john, how bout a 3dmark run on battery?

Quad; 9c.05 here for windows

john, it does downclock the whole system on battery..still running performance mode high in windows scheme.. but everything is running about 60% of normal speed

 

i did a fear benchmark for you with it plugged in and unplugged 64/108/209 plugged and 7/14/26 unplugged thats
min/avg/max hope this helps ya.

And thanks for the Bios friend.

 

thanks people!!

yes...that's not good at all!! someone said it did that. (downclocked everything).i was thinking it was like the 6860 where you could still get it to run full speed.lik a big dummy...i never tested it on battery (7811)....*LMAO*

 

im going to assume your new machine did not arrive yet or you wouldnt be lingering around here worried about battery power on the 7811 .

 

got a friend in another forum waiting on the answer. he for the life of himself has tried everything to get it to not do this, but with no success. i told him i had people. and you all are my people! *LOL*

nope, machine isn't here yet

 

Maybe its just to big a draw on the Battery so they disabled full speed via the bios .

 

they did something alright...i was noticing something with the 6860. if i tried to play crysis or cod4 on battery, the whole machine would just blank out. just go completely dead. you had to plug it back in to the wall to get it to power back on. actually it started with the 6831, that was the main reason i upgraded to the 6860. and that one did it as well. now one of them geeker's at best buy said it would do that because there just wasn't enough power for the card to run at full speed for very long on battery. so i slightly down clocked the card and it ran without a hitch. now this varied per machine.... wonder if that's why it does it at the bios level.....

 

this to..we ran a voltage test on the battery and when the battery hit like 10.9 volts, the computer went completely dead...even though the battery still had like 1 hour charge left. so i gotta agree...it's deff the battery, but more so...how much voltage is left in the battery that determineds if the computer stays on.

 

well.. the whole system downclocks cause of the ACPI. And yea, it is the BIOS(or begins there). A while back I posted a hypothesis of why it happens. To sum it up, the mobo and/or power supply are not appropriate for the amount of power needed with the high end GPU, and high end CPU. TZS0 doesn't really reach 98c, as it reports in HWMonitor..it's a "short circuit" basically, and peaks the zone, causing everything else to downclock. There is a "breaking point" when I logged the TZS0 to graph..and @ 62c true temp it then shot to 98c *instantly* and the CPU downclocked.. that was 9c.08 BIOS. If you read the BIOS .bld files, you'll notice they adjusted thermal zones in the newer 9c.10 BIOS. It now throttles @ 86c. The zones are controlled via BIOS, as well as ACPI->Vista communications. Bios 9c.08 had a newer kernel used with the BIOS..which may relate to the differences in throttling.

RMClock disables Vista "OS based power management", it's actually an option you can turn on or off. Without that interference, the rig will not force downthrottle, even tho TZS0 is maxed out.

john; i remember reading your posts about that a while back. On overclocker's forum i believe. Lemme run RMClock and try with no power cable.

 

I figured they would do it at the bios level just for that reason of basically making it unplayable on battery so you couldnt slow down the computer just enough to make it playable but still putting way to much draw on the battery for safety reasons maybe . its probably slaughtering your battery when running that much power through it all at once . Its going from charged to uncharged super fast vs just browsing the web and maybe watching a movie on battery which would be a much longer process (all speculation of course)

My 6860 did the same thing as well in that it crapped out went black and had to be plugged back in to get it to respond.

 

RMClock and battery doesnt game well. Still doing the same 1/2 speed performance..

 

yes...that could very well present a decent sized problem there.... for some. i was just hoping i was wrong or they will have that fixed in the last bios update.

 

hey bud..editted the BIOS link, and added one to BIOS thread..that was the 9c.08 link. sorry

 

well i have thermal pads on order. should have em by next week.

will let ya all know how they are working. if they dont work then ill be trying the copper mod.

 

Ok..well, I'm no artist like Warlord when it comes to making a copper heatsink Mod.. but, I did manage to complete the mod. It took roughly 3 hours, and I realized that I need more patience to make a mirrored heatsink. Fortunately, there are many sites I found that don't recommend a mirrored effect, just because it doesn't allow the heatsink to flush up to the chipset when using AS5. The AS5 stops that from happening because there are no grooves to fill. Either way, that's all hypothetical BS. I didn't take a bunch of pics..but I did take a few. Here ya go.

Ok..these are temps before..idle temps 20 minutes after 3dmark06..


Step 1: removed heatsink; notice the textured aluminum on the chipset side.. it's bumpy, and needs to be lapped as well. Actually, that was where I got my practice before moving on to the copper.


Step 2: Lapping copper.. I know there's tons of places that tell ya how to lap a heatsink, but I found this part to be more difficult than they explained. Most of those walkthrus are based on having a desktop sink, mounted to a fan or something with weight. Well, this little piece of copper means you gotta do everything by hand, including rubbing some fingerprints off your hands with the sandpaper. I used 320 grit to bevel the edges. Then I only used 1000grit and 2000 grit to smoothe the edges, and then to lap both top and bottom of the copper. I used a 4x4" mirror to wrap the sanding paper around.. added lots of water as I went along, never dry sanding. Started with 1000 grit, turning the copper shim 90 degrees every 20-25 strokes across the paper. You can use the stroke and turn method, or figure 8 method. The point is to keep the lapping consistent in order to have an even, flat surface. This pic is taken after adding the bevel to the edges.. Unfortunately, this shim was a lil off kilter from the beginning..so I decied to tap it with a hammer in order to flatten it out. That's the lil divots you see in the middle. Oops!! (Note to self:Rubber mallet woulda worked much better) I spent about 1.5 hours lapping top and bottom after this pic was taken.


Step 3: I didn't want to make the mod permanent, so I spread a VERY thin layer of AS5 onto the aluminum heatsink(notice the texture is now gone). Then I applied the copper shim, cleaned as5 from edges. The shim sat perfectly flat on the first attempt! Also, just for purposes of personal theory..i left a *slightly* beveled edge on the underside of the shim.. I thought that would allow any excess AS5 to be squeezed out and help seat he shim. I then cleaned and reapplied AS5 to CPU, and removed the thermal pad from chipset and cleaned with q-tips and alcohol. You can see the AS5 I applied to the copper mod only covers the area where it will be needed. I didn't want to risk AS5 getting on the little transistors on the chipset.

Well, I bolted the mod down and by sheer luck it made perfect contact with the northbridge. Maybe not all luck, I'm sure a little skill was involved

So, total time to complete was roughly 3 hours.. Only used 3 types of sandpaper.. and one shim. Shim used was .04" thick, and .7" length and width. That's 1.02mm thick, and 17.8 mm per side. It was likely .6 to .7mm thick after lapping..

Here's a pic of the shim sizes I originally ordered.. the smaller of the 2 is the thickness of the final shim..the larger is the diameter of the final shim. I forgot to take a pic of the shim used before any lapping.


Idle temps after mod:

Seems that TZS0 and TZS1 tend to idle a bit cooler when not under load.. however it still reaches the same temps as before.. 70-71C are max temps reached..not sure if that was in the pic or not

EDIT: Changed Idle temp after mod picc for better comparison to before..

 

nice job there pal!

so your verdict is? it worked for overclocking without rmclock and no 98c down clock?