***Gigabyte P35X owner's lounge***

I'm very curious to know if you plan on pushing a 1300 or more core clock with a modified vbios. Would like to know if 50 watts is enough.
One useful tool for testing for throttling in real time in game is evga precision x with the on screen display. It will show your current clock rates in real time.
I think if I can get enough juice to the 980m I can squeeze out 30-40 FPS at 4k. Would be great to try and use this 4k monitor! The 8gb makes it good for it. I think the desktop 980 would be quite decent for 4k if it didn't have a measly 4 gb of vram.
Technically I should be able to match the 980 but have twice the vram (stock 980 vs oc 980m of course)
I can't wait to get my laptop back, I might not be selling it after all if I get this to work
Can you link to the adapter you used for the power jack?
Your Google fu is clearly superior as my searches have returned fruitless.

 

Guys I can confirm that the p35x works absolutely perfectly with a 144Hz 1080p monitor through miniDP. I can even run my internal when the external is at 144Hz. I used a iiyama gb2488hsu.

 

Sorry for my delayed response. Lots of things going on right now, and working on the laptop is at the end of the to-do list. Here is the adapter I got:

http://www.amazon.com/7-4x5-0mm-5-5...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

I would be interested in seeing your results with taking the 980m even faster.

 

No problem man, thanks for the link.
Looks like the dell 330w will work with that.
Anyone know if the gigabyte rma website is accurate? It hasn't updated my status.

 

The website is terrible, I'm afraid. When mine was getting worked on, I emailed the tech support side and somebody there checked on it for me. Not sure it was necessary in my case though, they had it fixed, tested, and sent back pretty darn quick in my opinion.

 

Good to know, thank you!
It got there friday but the site hasn't updated. I'll email this Thursday or Friday to enquire then. Can't wait to get it back and try some things.

 

Just heard back from Gigabyte!
They replaced the motherboard and some sort of keyboard holder. They also asked for my permission to recover the OS.
+1 to Gigabyte for honoring the warranty quickly without any hassle.
I guess they'll finish up and send it back soon! Feels good that I bought from a company that stands behind their product and warranty.

 

I got mine back yestoday after roughly 2 weeks, they determine the Video TDR BSoD is caused by hardware/driver compatibility and reinstalled Win8 instead. But the problem BSoD came back right after I upgrade it to Win10...now I'm reinstalling Win8.1 and hope it will work again...how I regret upgrade to 10 in the first place.

Regards.

Defan

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

The laptop should work in Windows 10. If not it would be terrible that such a modern laptop is unable to run under Windows 10. Gigabyte should fix this.

 

Mine worked in Win10 with 980m disabled, the technician literally formatted the mSATA and reinstalled Win8, pretending the problem doesn't exist as long as I don't install Win10.

Currently in the long processes of updating Win8 and reinstall a few games to test the issue. The worst thing is I don't have system backups for Win8 anymore coz I upgraded to 10 for over half a year now...

Regards.

Defan

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

The thing is that Win8 will lose support fairly soon. There is no reason for this laptop not to be compliant with win10. All competitors are win10 ready.

 

One would think Microsoft and Nvidia got their ****s together this long after the public release of Win10. Maybe I can give another try when the 11 is out.

I'm still not convinced that Win8 doesn't have the same issue, after all, there're many reports on google with the problem persists after the OS downgrade.

Regards.

Defan

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

I run a 980M under Windows 10 just fine. I think Gigabyte needs to get their **** together. Finished THe Divsion past 2 weeks on a 980M laptop under Windoes 10. Not a single crash whatsoever.

 

Can you tell me which bios and geforce driver you're using?

Regards.

Defan

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

 

I have an Alienware laptop. and i always use the latest drivers.

 

I'm surprised. I sent my laptop back in for a warranty repair on the battery and I think they replace my entire body of the laptop and a new keyboard with media keys on the arrow buttons. Have those always been there and I just never noticed it?

 

Maybe they damaged something during the repair & then they had to give you a new one (or had to replace the parts you mentioned)!

 

Media keys has always been there on the arrow keys.

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Well gigabyte mailed my laptop yesterday after replacing the motherboard and recovering the OS. I'm looking forward to unleashing 330 watts to really see what the 980m can do with proper cooling and power.
Thinking about getting a dual usb to usb b to run more power to my notepal x3 too. Anyone know much about upping the rpms? I imagine the heat might get intense even with all my stuff. Plus I'll have a lovely factory paste job to redo.

 

I'm not certain that supplying your cooling pad with dual USB as opposed to single USB will increase the fan RPM - I would have thought the cooler is designed to suck it's maximum power using one USB port so I don't think it will ask for more power if you hook it up to two USB ports, could be worth a try though if it's a cheap cable to get. You might be able to mod it to ask for more power, but not sure how that would be done.

You might need a modified vBIOS for your 980M to enable the card to suck more power, often times they're limited by the TDP constraints in the vBIOS.

 

Nothing. It will never use 330watts ever. Even not hitting the 240watt.

 

I know I'll need a vbios.
And I know obviously it's not going to use 330w...
What I do know is 200w was certainly not enough to power a good oc.
The 330w will make it a non issue and be most efficient. Maybe the 230w would be enough but I doubt it without throttling and why be so close to maximum power? I'd prefer the efficiency and wiggle room. I've maxed out a 200w as confirmed by kill a watt by modified vbios..

 

Hmm, well I'm seeing the cable that should work for 4 buckaroos so I guess I'll try it as an experiment. I get what you're saying and it would make sense if it didn't draw more than the 5 volts it can get by single usb.
I thought I had read somewhere where people will run multiple usb to a cooling pad though. Could have misunderstood but it's a cheap fun experiment so I'll let you guys know if it works!

 

Just got my laptop back all spiffy! I didnt lose any data, it looks like they recovered everything! I am very happy about that.
I get the 330w dell PSU and adaptor, liquid ultra, fujipoly 17mwk thermal pads and the dual usb power cable tomorrow.Its about to get fun!!
Also the ASIC of the new 980m is 76.1% and my old one was 76.5 so I cant complain.
EDIT:
Well guys dont waste your time, no manner of power table tweaking will allow it to draw more than about 216w total system draw from the wall despite power throttling on an overclock.
I'm guessing the internal power delivery circuitry is only capable of delivering 100w and not much more. I tried doubling the power table(200%) which is what prema mod allows you to do on clevo etc. As soon as a heavy load comes on the gpu chokes down to sub 1k core clock.
The bottom line is im tired of fooling with this laptop and have put it up for sale.
Oh and the dual usb to the cooler did nothing extra so you guys know.

 

So yesterday I dropped my laptop from tableheight... It slipped out of my backpack when I was about to leave and getting my stuff.

After lots of cursing and getting people's attention in my campus library, I tried to boot at home. Nothing. I shat my pants.

Turns out theres nothing wrong with the laptop: Im installing windows 10 on an old 120Gb mechanical drive from a roommate as we speak and its already booted so its fine.

My m550 512gb however seems to act weird. In the hdd slot, I cant get it to boot and sometimes it is recognised in the bios and sometimes it isnt. I managed to boot it using the HDD adapter for the cd drive but I haven't replicated this result yet and only tried once.

Is this a problem with my SATA port on my laptop or with the ssd itself? I hope its not the sata port.

As I said, the mechanical drive is working fine in the hdd slot, but Im pretty sure its not a sata3 drive but rather a sata2 one. Would that have something to do with being able to be recognised on a damaged sata3 port? (Less pins being used or whatnot).

The laptop was in standby when it fell, so theres 2 kinds of damage possible on the lappy and the ssd: falling damage and elektrical i think. Any thoughts?

 

I've had trouble booting OS from SATA3 slots when I first got the laptop, it would bootup every time but freeze within 5 mins of login.

Are you using RAID in mSATA ports or single mSATA SSD? Have you tried swap them?

Regards.

Defan

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This is a well known problem with the Crucial drives from that era. Google "Crucial disappearing at startup"

There is no definitive solution.

 

Would it have to do with the drop though? Never had this issue with the m550. The sata2 seems to be running fine tho...

Also, are the msata slots in the V3 msata3 or msata2? Will you get the full speed from a 850 evo 1tb msata?

 

Seems the ssd is the problem. Got windows up and running in the old hdd slot on an old spinner but the m550 doesnt get recognised in either slot and not on my roommates computer via external hdd trays either.

Does this completely rule out my sata port on my laptop is broken though?

 

So 2 questions:

Are the msata ports running at msata2 or msata3 speeds? Read some threads from a few years ago stating all msata is msata 2 and thus can not match sata3 speeds... Surely the msata ports in this laptop are msata3?

Also, what is the maximum capacity of the msata slots? The specs say 512gb max, is it possible to run 2 1Tb msata SSD's in raid0? I beleive I saw someone try this but havent seen the outcome.

 

So i noticed today that the bottom of my laptop was not connected at one screw. I tried screwwing it back in but never caught nor did the nonattatched bottom become flush again. If i turn the laptop around i can hear something rattling inside. The screw loose isn't a corner so no big deal, but has anyone encountered this issue before? Don't wanna open her up if I can help it.

 

I am running a 1 TB 850 Evo in the msata and it works fine as far as I can tell.

 

I love my P35x v4, bought it back in August of 2015, but I've been having a pretty consistent issue I've been unable to diagnose: it seemingly randomly takes forever to boot, even while running W10 on an 850 Evo. Sometimes it will boot up in a less than ten seconds like it should, other times it will take around two minutes, just sitting at the Gigabyte boot screen. I have reinstalled Windows multiple times, on my other 850 Evo and on a hard drive, neither solving the issue. Another strange thing is that when it takes a long time to boot it makes an audible popping sound while sitting at the Gigabyte screen.
Additionally, I have never been able to get it to sleep successfully. It tries to sleep, makes a strange beeping noise and seems to shut down.
Lastly, it never shuts down successfully. It always boots straight back up after a shut down, within seconds. I usually have to do some combination of holding the power button down and something else to actually get it to shut down.
Could this be a motherboard issue? The fact that I've tried multiple drives and installations of Windows kinda lead me to a hardware issue.

 

Disable the wake on lan / rtc setting in bios, that might help with the random waking.

I too sometimes have my computer randomly turn back on after hibernating. Very rare though, not sure what causes it.

 

I have a loosely similar issue with my Windows 10 install, but just in terms of the boot time. Occasionally it will boot fast in a few seconds, other times it will boot slower (an extra 30 secs, for about 40secs overall). I've found that strangely if you don't autohide the taskbar then it will boot fast all the time - a strange bug indeed, I have reported it in the Microsoft forums.

 

@Arthedes, how did you get on, did you manage to sort out your machine in the end?

Personally I'd open her up (taking due care and following online guides). The screws are of different lengths so it sounds as though whoever put it together last may have put the wrong screw in the wrong hole and/or not aligned the case correctly so it isn't flush. So it may be a relatively simple case of carefully dismantling and putting back together. Or send it back if that's how it came!

Hope you've managed to get this resolved, it doesn't sound good when you describe it like that...makes me think of loose connections or something electrical. The only thing that sprang to mind around the booting up was relating to drivers when you install windows, and making sure you installed all of them and the right ones. [bit of an aside, but I did battle with a similar issue on my daughter's laptop - having to wait circa 1 minute extra at bootup entirely due to the wrong switchable graphics driver. This was an old samsung though so not really comparable to your situation]. If you've taken it back to stock windows with the right drivers, and it's still misbehaving then I'd look in the event manager for any info/insight, and if that didn't help I'd be looking at returning it for a replacement?

 

Through either a recent Windows Insider update or disabling wake on lan / rtc setting in bios my slow boot problems seem to have gone away, along with the audible pop on boot. It still will not successfully shut down though. Baby steps. The slow boot with auto hide task bars is a strange bug indeed. I always hide my task bars and never figured it could play into my boot time.

 

Any one managed to get HTC Vive to work with their P35x V3? I always thought it was impossible to do this because of the whole optimus fiasco. I saw one post talking about it working if you go through the miniDP instead of the HDMI port. But there are no clear instructions.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4jcidr/virtual_desktopvorpxbigscreen_on_laptop/

Anyone else have any experience with this?

 

it's probably inside the laptop, possibly near the gpu. worrying, I'd open her up and repaste the cpu and gpu, she's still under warranty.

with Gelid extreme I've managed to reduce my idle temps 15c from idle.

 

To Raid or Not?

I have 2 x Samsung 950 PRO 512 and 2 x Samsung 840 PRO 256. The system is already fast and very responsive. However, I was told not to RAID SSDs because it will reduce their lifetime. Is it worth it? Anyone else run RAID-0 on 950 PRO?

 

I emailed crucial. They told me to 'power cycle' the laptop two times, essentially resetting the ssd. It has been working fine ever since!

No further damage to the laptop occurred

This leads to the cause. My laptop was on standby before it fell and off after it fell. Probably abruptly cutting power to the ssd, causing it to scramble in some manner. Power cycling the ssd reset it and made it work again.

I reinstalled windows 10 from a bootable usb, installed the latest drivers and all my programs and im still using it today and it works flawlessly!

 

Hi, could anyone help please. I'm trying to choose between this model and the GS63VR but I'm a bit overwhelmed by the information found online.

I just want someone input on the matter. Would you guys take this model over the GS63 anytime?

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Nevermind. I feel so stupid. Just realized I was reading the v3 model :0

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Hi, I'm trying to play BF1 on my P35X V3 (Full HD version), but I'm getting really inconsistent framerates, with everything on Medium I can't even get stable 40/50 FPS.

I have Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bits installed, and the latest nVidia Drivers, any advice ?

 

Anyone ???

 

I don't hav Bf1 but on forza horizon I turned the cpu speed down to 2.6 using xtu to stop it throttling. Maybe it's that? Forza runs around 50fps on medium so wouldn't expect higher frame rates?

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Yep, it was thermal throttling, and it still does even at 2.6, gonna have to talk to Gigabyte.

 

Maybe a repaste would help, although worth checking both fans are spinning. I found a lot of games run the cpu flat out but don't utilise it so you can slow it down quite a lot to help things run cooler and quieter without dropping fps.

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I bought Arctic Cooling MX-4 today, repasted, problem solved, now I have 80/90 FPS with some drops to 70/75.

 

Yeah, seems that with somegames downclocking doesnt affect fps but does affect temps!