Hi Frank and 2.0, sorry for not contacting earlier. I'm not visiting here much lately, but I got a PM notification from 2.0. So I already sent him the modded BIOS, I hope he can put it online soon!
And an important warning: flash F.0E first, then F.0F and then the modded one. All three BIOSes are included in the zip file I sent to 2.0. It's important to follow the sequence, even more if you are in an older version, otherwise you can brick your 2510! And to unbrick, you will need a USB floppy drive, so it's better to follow the instructions.
Regards!
Eduardo
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NOTICE:
Modified F10 BIOS is up on page 1, post 1. -
nando4 finally woke up from his ego after you posted F10 on page 1 and shared the BIOSes on the other site (though he doesn't ask for money anymore... Christmas present, maybe ? haha) Way to go !!, what can I say ? The whole thing surely left several 2510p users with a bad aftertaste... -
Hello to everyone. I'm new here but I'm a long time reader and I'm seeking for some advices about an issue I'm experiencing with an HP 2510p. It doesn't boot, the screen remains empty (not even with the backlight on) while the laptop turns on with the power led lit along with the hard drive (and I think optical unit) one. The only other sign of life if the orange icon to enable/disable sound on the upper panel which is lit (it remains so) along with the spinning fan.
I've tried to swap the bios with the same result, I've also tried the bios in another machine and it works perfectly: this clearly rules out an issue with the bios. I've also tried to take everything out (hard drive, optical unit, wireless and bluetooth cards) except from memory and screen but nothing has changed.
Is this a common issue? I don't know but it seems to me that the memory (tested and perfecftly fine) isn't detected, definitively a motherboard failure. I don't know what else I could think but I may be wrong...
Thanks in advance to everyone. -
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Hi folks.
Recently-new owner here.
I've started reading through the thread, and there's lots of good advice etc, most of which is a little above my basic computer knowledge.
I've upgraded my 2510p to 4GB although everything else is, as far as I can tell, as it was out-of-the-box.
It's running Vista Business, which is quite slow, despite tweaking.
From what I can see, the main problems are 1) Vista is slow, generally and 2) The hard drive access isn't the fastest.
I'm therefore thinking of upgrading to Win7, and maybe a solid state drive. On the latter, I have a few queries:
1. If I were to buy an SSD, is it simply a case of removing the old hard drive, and plugging the new drive in? Do I need different leads / a caddy etc ?
2. What is the best value & fit SSD for the 2510p? I don't need loads of storage - 64gb upwards probably.
3. Would I be better off replacing the DVD drive with an SSD drive ( from the thread, it looks like i'll need a caddy for this), and if I do this, can I get the computer to boot from this, in priority to the normal hard drive ? I don'y really use the DVD drive at all.
4. I'm in the UK, and if anyone can recommend a place (either actual shop or online) to get the bits and bobs I need, i'd be most grateful.
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give. -
Hello, folks.
This nice 2510p was just lying on the shell for a 5 years till i realised a month ago that now i need fast and light laptop.
Was surprised to see that nothing from modern laptop is better than this.. (or the price is way to high like it's some 17" gaiming laptop). So i decided to stay with my 2510p, just upgrade it a bit. So, what i have now:
1. Changed m/b to new with the best CPU, L7700
2. Changed RAM to 4Gb 667Mhz (will it eat 4Gb 800Mhz?)
3. PCMCIA card with 2 additional USB ports.
4. 1.8 bay: ZIF-mSATA Adapter + mSATA 256GB Micron RealSSD C400, using for system&other
5. Optical Bay: SATA 9.6mm Caddy + 2.5' SATA HDD 120Gb Toshiba MK1246GSX (from my PS3), for a file-storage.
But i have a problem in that conception: 5. and 4. don't want to work together! I installed Windows 8.1 x64 on both 2.5' Sata HDD and mSATA SSD. If any of this drive is alone - the laptop boots fine, notebook sees the drive like "Notebook Hard Drive".
Bot none of them loads if they both installed! I guess, they can't agree, who is more important "Notebook Hard Drive"No kidding, when they both equipped - i see only one "Notebook Hard Drive" in BIOS multiboot. But even that one doesn't load the system.
Now, attention, this all is true EVEN IF CADDY IS EMPTY! How on earth can it influense on SSD then?
I even tried to insulate pin #47, like was adviced here, but nothing have changed...
May be it's becouse of my old BIOS (F.07_5.12.2007)? But i know it hardly could be a case... And damn caddy doesn't have a jumper...
I know this topic is not popular lately, but may be somebody still could give an advice to new 2510p user? -
Hello Ted47,
They don't work together because both are set to Master. One of them should be set to Slave. Since I don't know exactly how to Slave-mod the 1.8" mSATA-to-ZIF adapter, you can try to play with the IDE-SATA 2.5" optical bay caddy.
AFAICT from the link you provided, that optical bay caddy has a Sunplus chip (it would be nice to confirm by opening it up and taking a photo) and then to look in the chip's manual and figure out how to jumper it to Slave...
*Note: We could also figure out how to slave-mod/jumper the 1.8" mSATA-ZIF adapter, which most probably has the JMicron JM20330 chip onboard. Do you have any soldering skills ? If so, we could play a bit with these components. I have taken myself several photos of these components a while ago, we could check and see....
*Note2: It would be useful to first flash the modded F.10 BIOS (do not upgrade to anything higher !) -
Wow, thanks for answering. Well, here is close-up fotoes of my caddy:
Any ideas how to make it work as a slave with the 1.8 bay?
Upd.: i guess here would be manual for my chip, yhough i'm not comletely sure. And definetly i don't know what to do... i don't have soldering. But i think i can cut one or two chip legs, it shouldn't be a problem..
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...=dv9Uqr0mf08R3ZV2UEW0Yw&bvm=bv.77880786,d.bGQ
P.S. The other problem i ran into... is laptop overheating. I cleaned it, changed termal paste (Arctic MX-2), but nothing helps...
I've got 55-65 degrees in idle (celsium), if i start browser with 5-6-tabs i have 65-85 degrees. If i run stress test in AIDA64, ive receiving 95 degrees and laptop is freezing. Going to udervolt the CPU a bit, but i dont really like to loose on perfomance, also i guess it still won't be much of a help... Temperature isn't supposte to be so high... Any ideas? -
Yeah, that's definitely a Sunplus SPIF223A IDE-SATA bridge, I had such a caddy myself, but didn't pass TRIM on SSDs, so I changed it with a Marvell-based Fenvi caddy.
The manual that you gave a link to is the right one for Sunplus, we'll have to find out how to slave-mod (reading...). There was a discussion on this topic back in 2011-2012 in this thread, I have to check a few things out.
First, we'll try to slave-mod the Sunplus chip. If no success, we'll try to slave mod the mSATA-ZIF adapter (JMicron JM20330 IDE-SATA chip, I have the manual and several photos for that one myself).
To quickly summarize some info regarding the IDE-SATA bridge chips (gathered from older posts and from my drive):
1. "Sunplus SATA to PATA bridge (in newmodeus caddy -- has Slave jumper):
-works fine with HDD
-no TRIM for SSD
-hangs 30s on boot, if Slave
-doesn't recognize the drive when resuming from Standby, if Slave"
2. Here is a photo of the pinouts for three IDE-SATA bridges: Sunplus SPIF223A, Marvell 88SA8052, JMicron JM20330
https://mega.co.nz/#!VpNFHL5I!1FRJX5PpChSpJwNsjK00-IgMgc1VsNHPorAMtDsmbZg
3. Photo of my mSATA-ZIF adapter with JMicron JM20330 chip:
https://mega.co.nz/#!o80Q3Q7b!zHWY7UNYiOcEvNrl1ERUNy6Mdd7k2Db-wMs-OvbmzbA
and its manual:
https://mega.co.nz/#!p0kgSZrT!hwWPU2hXLxyXg3QANhtzTlc3WcyXH4z_udosg4-JU9I
4. For more details, a thread discussing JMicron and Marvell bridges (see my post from May 15, 2014 on pg. 4)
forum.thinkpads.com • View topic - New SSD opt. for T4x : mSATA-to-IDE adapter ST663FD9 *PICS*
and another one (long and complex -- if you have time to read):
http://forum.notebookreview.com/har...-ssd-hdd-storage-using-optical-bay-caddy.html
*Regarding the temperature, you should use the BIOS with normal fan speeds (not with 30% or 40%), e.g.:
http://www.solidfiles.com/d/9af25a536d/2510P-F10-SP52914-SLIC21-nowhitelist-dualIDA.rar
Otherwise, I also see high temps sometimes... 75-80 deg C. I used Arctic Silver 5. -
I think I've found how to Slave-mod the Sunplus SPIF223A bridge. The information can be found on page 6 and 9, Section 7.3 in this pdf:
https://mega.co.nz/#!h5VxgLIS!rERjMhrJ8W-wBolpJrZUQjPOvTxmMHsgI8YHpXheCh0
The "ATA device mode" can be selected via 2 jumpers, IDE_JUMP0 (PIN #33) and IDE_JUMP1 (PIN #35) as follows:
0 0 - Master
1 0 - Slave
1 1 - Cable Select
If you check the picture of the Sunplus SPIF223A IDE-SATA bridge found in my optical caddy:
https://mega.co.nz/#!sgMjiD4Q!rLm8IYqsY7P6tm3GlV9kQ7Hgu10KVZUXKqeErj7R5D0
you will notice that both PIN #33 and #35 are NOT jumpered (0 0), so the caddy is seen by the motherboard as set to Master (this is the default setting from the factory).
To enable Slave on this Sunplus chip, we should jumper PIN #33 (the lowermost pin on the right side of the chip). A simple copper wire soldered over that gap, as I marked in red, should do it ! You could even solder a small On/Off switch or a 2-pin jumper base over there so that you can easily toggle Master/Slave, without having to disassemble the caddy every time -
I've also found some info on how to Slave-mod the JM20330 mSATA-ZIF adapter. According to Section 5.5, page 19 of the JMicron JM20330 manual,
https://mega.co.nz/#!p0kgSZrT!hwWPU2hXLxyXg3QANhtzTlc3WcyXH4z_udosg4-JU9I
the SATA-PATA bridge is in Host Bridge Mode 110 (PIN20=1, PIN19=1, PIN18=0).
PIN #33 called MSSEL (Master/Slave Selection) is connected to 0 via the 0-ohm resistor, see here:
https://mega.co.nz/#!w8swxTTS!hgNqheGrxdFt7_lvXjbOt8xproZW6uIRBMeIQTcOIww
Because the adapter is set to Master from factory, it means this is Device 0 mode as specified in the manual.
Setting PIN #33 to 1 should put the bridge in Device 1 mode (i.e. Slave). The problem is that the manual does not have a complete pin listing and it doesn't state how to specifically set Device 1 mode. I can only assume it can be accomplished by removing that 0-ohm resistor, but this is pure speculation on my part... -
I own a 2510p with a cracked screen that have been waiting for repairs. I recently bought another one off ebay for a reasonable price. It came without a hard drive.
Today I moved the HDD from my original 2510p into the one that came from ebay. After initial clumsiness and confusion with the ZIF connector i plugged it up, the drive was recognized and the notebook booted into windows. However, the resolution was set to 1024x768 with 4:3 aspect ratio. About 1/4 of the screen, the right most part, seems off. I thought this would be a setting/driver problem in windows, when I realized that it's the same on the boot screen. Also when I enter the bios, it does not appear full screen but seems to use only 1024x768 pixels.
Could this be a software problem caused by the hdd transplantation (windows drivers ?!). How do I reset the resolution to 1280x800 ?
I just ran Linux off a USB pendrive. same problem - max resolution: 1024x768. the screen has definitely 1280x800 resolution. -
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Last edited by a moderator: May 7, 2015
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Hi Ted,
I'm a newbie who's been reading the forum for a while getting a few tips. My 2510 was a 2nd hand buy a few months back and it has lost all the rubbers on it's feet mounts. As I don't have any of the originals, I'm assuming that they protrude a few mms from the plastic surrounds. In my case, if I sit the the unit on a flat surface this loss of height/clearance affects cooling significantly. If I rest the battery on something only 3-4mms thick, to increase clearance under the main body, things improve a huge amount. Something for you to check out?
cheers,
Mman -
Hi Apologies if I have posted this in the wrong place or the question has already been answered.
I have a HP2510p Intel Core 2 Duo CPU U7600 @ 1.2 Ghz.
My Bios is dated 08/20/2008 Rom Bios Version F.0D.
I have been reading with great interest about getting a performance increase by using a modded BIOS and/or throttlestop or such util. I would very much appreciate if someone could give me instructions as to how to do this and where to download the Bios an such. I'm not a newbie to upgrading bios just unfamiliar with modded bios and such. I understand the risks involved and as this is a spare laptop am prepared to take such chances.
Many Thanks in advance
StormHavoc -
Hi, first i have to admit that i haven't read all 132 pages of this thread, but some of them.
I have bought a used 2510P and i wanted to change the ZIF hdd to an SSD drive.
So i bought a ZIF to msata adapter with JM20330 chip, inserted a 3,3V Sandisk X110 128GB and... the SSD is not recognized at all.
I upgraded the BIOS from v. F0C to the moded F10 version, but still the SSD is not recognized.
Have i missed something ?
Here are some pictures:
Last edited: Oct 25, 2015 -
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@Larry:
Hi Larry. - No, i think the cable is mounted correctly. The adapter and of course the zif cable too, have only golden contacts on one site. I have matched them together, so this should not be the issue. -
Thanks for having this thread with great info, now I can enjoy my 2510p some more year hopefully.
I have just installed my zif to msata adapter and my msata Samsung 830 120 gb disk.
Everything seems to work great so far, sitting and watching the Windows 10 installation.
Payed 35$ for the drive ans 5$ for the adapter below.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281940512073?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT -
Does the fingerprint reader work with windows 7 & 8?
Drivers look good but I can't find software that will work to launch and configure - this was purchased circa 2009.
I believe it came with Vista and Verisoft Access Manager for the reader -
How is the mSATA SSD working?
I have just bought a 2710p on eBay and would very much like to upgrade the hard drive. -
Sorry for resurrecting this old but interesting thread. I have acquired an immaculate 2510p and a working spare. I think I have read every page of this thread but can't find an active link to any of the modded bios files. If anyone could share a copy or a working link I would be really grateful. I have installed a 1.8" Kingspec SSD and am running Arch Linux. It now boots in seconds rather than minutes and does everything I need it to do. Now that I know that it can be safely overclocked it seems silly not to take advantage. The hardware mods are probably too much for my eyes or soldering skills though. Linux evolves quickly. Is lfsb still the best choice for overclocking?
Again, I really would appreciate a copy of or a working link to a modified bios ideally F.10 (268)
Thank you for reading this.tekkn0 likes this. -
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Right now I have lot of time (Covid-19 time) so I try digging in the internet history and I found "F.10" bios
I will try instal this bios on my old laptop
There is link:
- http://www.mediafire.com/file/ayczr...2914-SLIC21-nowhitelist-dualIDA-fan40pct.rar/
- or
- https://uloz.to/file/rI6Zi1RH4nMH/2510p-f10-sp52914-slic21-nowhitelist-dualida-fan40pct-rar
- or
- https://fastshare.cz/13266254/2510p-f10-sp52914-slic21-nowhitelist-dualida-fan40pct.rar
*HP 2510p Owners Lounge*
Discussion in 'HP Business Class Notebooks' started by master blaster, Feb 13, 2009.