*HP 2510p Owners Lounge*

Have you guys seen this? Available today at SuperBiiz for less the $100 with free shipping. A bit slow and 32MB max. No idea what the controller is. They also have 1.8 drives up to 64MB.

http://www.supertalent.com/products/ssd_detail.php?type=1.3 IDE ZIF

Specifications
o Mfr Part Number: FEM32GF13M
o Features:
+ MLC NAND Flash
+ 80 MB/sec sequential read and 40 MB/sec sequential write speeds
+ Standard IDE / Parallel ATA interface
+ ECC, bad bit management and wear leveling built into the controller
o Capacity: 32 GB
o Interface: 40-pin IDE ZIF
o NAND Flash: MLC
o Modes: PIO modes 0~4
o OS Support: All
o Current: Active Mode - 55 mA(max); Sleep/Idle Mode - 0.18 mA(max)
o Shock(operating): 10G, 3 axis
o Vibration(operating): 1G, each axis
o Storage Temperature: -55°C to +80°C
o Performance:
+ Sequential Read Rate: 80 MB/s (max)
+ Sequential Write Rate: 40 MB/s (max)
+ Access Time: 0.1 ms
+ Track to Track Seek: 0.1 ms
+ Bus Tx Speed: 16.7 MB/sec (peak time)
o Endurance
* MTBF: +1,000,000 hours
* Data Reliability: Built-in EDC/ECC function
* Data Integrity: 10 years
* Wear Leveling: Patent Pending
* Write/Erase: 10,000 cycles
* Read: Unlimited

# Power Supply: 5V ±10%
# Dimensions: 2.13 x 1.26 inch / 54.1 x 32.1 mm
# with Super Talent’s 2 year warranty

 

Thanks for the heads up. As a comparison, the Dell Mini pci-e pata Supertalent SSD here, is rated at same 80/40 is benchmarked. The correct product product for the 2510P would be $94US-(free shipping) New! Super Talent 32GB MLC 1.3 inch IDE ZIF Solid State Drive for Acer Aspire One. It's datasheet shows 0.18/0.55mA standby/active power consumption, which at 3.3V works out to be 0.0/0.18W. Ie: VERY low battery-life extending power consumption as shown to give very long battery life in the MSI U115 netbook.

UPDATE: This SSD has as input 5V, so no good for the 2510P since it uses 3.3V unless there are onboard voltage regulators doing 5V to 3.3V downstepping. Could be the case since 3.3V is more likely to run the onboard ICs.

 

First of all Wow. I have an 2510p with a 3, 6 and 9cell battery
And I get 2, 3 and 5 hours out of my batteries.
And thats with wlan and bluetooth disabled in bios, (I do have an enabled wwan card though) screen brightness set all the way down.
I have the 4200rpm 1.8" untill I can afford an ssd (after my vacation in 2 weeks)

I the 3cell battery is about 1 year old but the 6 and the 9 cell are brand new. (about 10-20 charges each)

And I´m running windows 7 Rc1 (build 7100) right now.
Clean install only otherthing installed is utorrent and avira Anti virus.

I feel like I should be getting more out of my batteries.

Could you or anyone give me any tips as to what I´m missing?

Has anyone been able to upgrade the hp s2300 wwan to 7.2mbits?

/ Santzia

 

Go back to XP or Vista. The drivers for Windows 7 aren't optimized for battery life yet.

The WWAN card uses about 2 watts of power in my experience, serious power drain.

If you have Microsoft Office installed disable the groove monitor, that seems to suck up alot of power also.

Running Vista Business SP2 x64 with a 9-cell battery and the WWAN turned on I get about 8 - 9 hours of battery life, the WWAN is incredibly inefficient for some reason. Odd thing is if I have my cell phone paired up via bluetooth for net access (with the WWAN card turned off) the bluetooth connection uses almost 2 watts... So it seems no power efficient way to get 3G internet.. oh well.

 

Thank you for the answer. Hmm I didn´t think the wwan would be that power hungry. I know that the bluetooth eats a lot of power. Do you know if the wlan is as power hungry as bluetooth and wwan? I´m going to try and use my cellphones wifi broadband and try to get online that way and see it it uses less power.
Or I guess I could go back and start using my Usb WWAN card.
But the hole point in me upgrading from the nc2400 to the 2510p was the internal wwan card... Ohh well I have some testing to do.

Thank you again for your quick answer..

/ Santzia

ps. Sorry for going off topic so much.

 

WLAN seems to be very power efficient, sometimes I can't tell a difference if it's on or off.

 

Trying to decide if I should pick-up an OCZ Vertex 60GB. It has the Indilinx controller and decent firmware support from OCZ. The drive consumes 2W during operation and 0.5W in sleep mode. I'll be using a PATA to SATA caddy. I just with I had the caddy already so I could test an Indilinx drive before buying from from an online vendor. The deal is pretty good at ~$170.

 

But if you buy a SSD, why not buy a 1.8" ZIF one for the original disk slot?

 

Price/Performance. Gmonster V3 or Mtron 32GB = ~$230-270. Cheaper drives have Jmicron controllers. 60GB Vertex in DVD caddy < $200. The only downside I see so far is the higher power consumption. What that means in real work battery life I need to see.

 

I got my ebay caddy today from notebookelite and it doesn't fit. I was having trouble sliding it in so I took a look at the connectors and saw that the PATA connector is completely different from the one used on the 2510p. You can actually see the wrong connector and position of it (computer side) in the ebay pictures.



Here is the caddy I ordered: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=220442636054

If I recall correctly I used the link that NANDO4 provided on your caddy guide. Please update that link since it is incorrect.

I'm not sure if I ordered the wrong part or if it just isn't the right fit for the 2510p. The front bezel is not angled on the right side so that would have had to be cut down if the connector were ok. There is also a metal strip inside which is blocking the fit into the bay.

Any suggestions what to do? I don't know if there is a correct caddy from notebookelite that I can swap this one out for or if I should take it as a loss...

 

INFO: The ebay sata-to-pata (Marvell) or pata caddies
Linked from INFO: Using a optical bay caddy to install a 2.5" SATA or PATA SSD/HDD

The correct substitute for the 2510P's optical drive is the $US13-shipped 9.5mm sata-to-pata caddy. It uses the Marvell 88SA8040 sata-to-pata chip, as used in the Lenovo ultrabay caddies with vendor informing me it weighs 100grams. A 2.5" drive weights 100grams, so 200grams total is very close to the 180grams of the original optical drive. This caddy has an additional 1W of power overhead for the sata-to-pata chip operation shown here confirmed by my testing. The equivalent US$18-delivered ebay 9.5mm pata caddy simply rewires the JAE50 connector to IDE40 with no bridge chip so has no power consumption overhead.

Revised US$20-shipped 9.5mm sata-to-pata caddy by Notebookelite with 'fenvi' label

Right: notebookelite's revised product with stronger metal chassis and swappable faceplate to one previously reviewed below.

Originally reviewed product


Caddy as it appears in the 2510P, requiring multibay plate to be removed. More pics in sfsilicon's gallery and here.

ebay caddy modifications

The ebay caddy can be modded to stiffen the faceplate, set master mode, and have HDD LED functionality on your system in addition to the little red LED on the caddy. 1: chassis mod for fit and hotswapping faceplate strength 2: circuit mod for Master operation and HDD system LED

1. Fitting the caddy. The JAE50 and metal guide side strip needs to be unscrewed as shown in sfsilicon's gallery. Initially the caddy got jammed and I needed to push it out with a screwdriver from behind the 1.8" HDD bay. Shaving off some plastic with a box cutter on the left edge as shown above allowed easy slide in/out.

2. Faceplate rigidity. The faceplate is secured using two screws, each part way in on either end. As it is flexible plastic, pulling the faceplate on the bottom left edge causes it to flex around the screwpoint. The way to correct this is to glue the faceplate down against the caddy edge so the pulling force is against the whole front chassis. Suggest placing masking tape on the faceplate to avoid spatter in the process.

3. Setting it to run as slave. The ebay caddy boots up as master by default though it is somewhat unusual since it cannot run as slave concurrently with the 1.8" ZIF PATA HDD as master. It simply disappears from the boot menu in that configuration. So really the only usefulness to 2510P owners is to make the ebay caddy run as Master by connecting pins 47 and 45 shown in close up detail here.The 1.8" Toshiba ZIF HDD was set to slave by bridging it's pin 1 and pin2 and confirmed works concurrently with the ebay caddy. Useful for cloning purposes, or as an additional storage repository if getting a 2.5" SATA SSD.

Late edition: can try to slave_mod the ebay caddy to run it as slave. This works with the topda branded ebay caddy.

4. HDD LED function. The caddy has a red HDD activity LED but the 2510P's HDD LED doesn't function along with it. A patch wire from JAE50 pin 37 (Drive Active) to the +ve terminal of the caddy's LED corrects this.

5. Pinning HDD down. 4 screws are provided to pin the HDD down under the side plastic tabs. The HDD simply slides in place and is held by the sata connector. If you are somewhat rough in your handling of your system you may consider a filler plastic plate to secure the HDD to prevent it from sliding forward. The 9.5mm ebay sata units have it, but this one doesn't. Better yet, consider drilling 2 or 4 bottom plate mounting holes as described here.

Performance/Installed photos see Comparison: ebay versus newmodeus 9.5mm sata-to-pata caddy.

 

Thanks for the photos nando4. I was able to remove the multibay connector and expose the correct connector for the 2510p. Pushing in the caddy is a bit tough because of a metal bump on the top left of the 2510p dvd slot. With some force I was able to slide it in, but it makes a load snap when I slide it in. Once fully inserted it sits okay. The face plate is flush, but it lacks the bottom right angle to match the 2510p body there is also a ~5mm gap between the faceplate and the bottom edge of the 2510p case slot. It doesn't look great, but for now I'm using it to easily pull the caddy out. Hopefully when I remount the screw holders it will hold the caddy firmly in place.

On to testing the caddy. I'm going to try a 320GB WD Scorpio Black 2.5" SATA drive. It's a 7200rpm drive with 16mb cache. More later.

 

I disconnected the 1.8" HDD and connected the caddy and it is being recognized as a multi-bay by the bios. After booting off a USB stick I'm in the process of installing XP. The format utility correctly seeing the 320GB drive so I'm optimistic that everything is good at this point.

I know installing from a USB stick causes XP to get confused with the drive letters and cause boot problems, but I've done this before so I'm hoping it won't be to much of a pain this time around.

BTW, can you send me a link to the benchmark software you use and any tests you would like me to run. My SSD comes on Tuesday so I'll swap that in later.

Concerning setting the 1.8 ZIF HDD to slave, I can tell from your picture what you did to jumper pin 1 and 2. I'm thinking of running just the caddy and getting rid for 1.8 HDD, so I'm not that interested in doing the jumpering unless it is easily reversible. Let me know if you really want to see this.

 

I have XP installed, but I'm running into the same issue that I had when installing from a USB drive that the drive settings are mixed up in the boot.ini which is preventing me from booting straight into Windows with out the USB stick. It's getting late in CA so I'll continue this tomorrow. Night! Thanks for the links to the benchmark programs.

 

Just a quick before and after battery comparison using the caddy. Measured using pocketgeke's battery status application.

1.8" ZIF HDD 4200 rpm -7.7
2.5" SATA HDD 7200rpm in caddy -8.1

Nothing scientific. My numbers are jumping around a bit depending on when the disk is being used or not. I'll try to get something more repeatable later, but I can hit -8.1 fairly regularly. I can still here a humming of the drive so I'm guessing the platters are still not parked at -8.1.

 

Here are pictures of the caddy.

 

Sorry this is not the case. When reactivating the 1.8" ZIF HDD only it is visible in the multiboot menu. I made screenshots of the bios menus here.

I also added benchmarks of the caddy and WD to the photo gallery. The ebay caddy seems to be a bit slower than the Newmodeus caddy. 82MB/s max vs. 84MB/s.

I should be getting my OCZ Vertex on Tuesday. I'll run the benchmarks again when I get it.

 

I'm looking forward to those benchmarks... I just wish it wasn't so dang annoying carrying around an external DVD drive...

 

Update: I redid the tape and it stuck this time. That's the good news as can be seen here. The bad news is that things have not changed. The caddy is not visible when the 1.8 ZIF is connected. I removed the tape and confirmed in XP that the device is being seen as a slave (with or without taping pin 47).

 

My OCZ Vertex 60GB arrived yesterday. I was quite busy so I barely was able install XP and do some benchmarks late last night. Here are the screenshots.

The results for reads are as expected. 78MB/s average in HDTune. 88MB/s in CrystalDiskMark. 82MB/s in Everest.

The writes are disappointing capping at around 31 MB/s. The disk was seal wrapped so I assumed it didn't need any whipping. I need to transfer the disk to my desktop to check the firmware revision and see the uncapped speeds with out the bridge chip. Any suggestion on how to improve writes or why they are so slow are appreciated.

I'm going to go back and do some more timed benchmarks against the WD Scorpio Black on real world things like Windows start-up and shutdown, etc. This might take sometime so don't expect any updates till later in the evening.

Ooops, I forgot to add the power consumption. I haven't installed all drivers yet. Just the Intel chipset / graphics and Wifi drivers. I'm getting around -7.8 to 8.1 drain while typing this.

 

I think all Indilinx controllers use 64MB cache as part of the reference design. The OCZ site lists:

"OCZ Vertex series SSDs are based on Indilinx controller and offer 64MB onboard cache memory. Maximum power consumption is just 2W and in stand-by mode a ..."

The 4k r/w are not being hampered by the PATA/SATA bridge chip as can be seen in my benchmarks. The sequential reads are limited by the PATA interface to the low 80MB/s. What I don't understand at this point is why the sequential writes are stuck at 31MB/s. I wonder if this is a problem with the bridge chip. I recall seeing an Mtron benchmark in a caddy also getting something in the 31MB/s range. I just don't have the link handy.

 

That's faster than my Samsung and pretty good power consumption too.

 

Samsung mini pci-e SSD (with onboard SATA controller) just announced

64B Samsung mini-pci-e SSD with onboard SATA controller (200MB/s read, 100MB/s write)



This is not like the netbook mini pci-e SSDs. This one has an onboard SATA controller so can plug it into the mini pci-e slot on a normal notebook. Means can keep the 1.8" ZIF HDD and optical drive intact, and put that unused mini pci-e card to good use. Claims you to give 3.0GBps SATA SSD performance, even though mini pci-e is rated at 2.5gbps (250MB/s). Any which way you look at it, it's better than ATA100/UDMA5 ~87MB/s.

It uses a Samsung RB controller so likely to have similar performance to 64GB 2.5" equivalent with same controller shown here. A lifeline too for Dell D420/430 1.8"-only ZIF systems.. Question is when and how much? They say testing is to be finalised Q3 2009.

UPDATE - an email to Samsung confirmed this is exactly like the netbook mini pci-e SSDs. No SATA controller onboard. Needs to have the SATA I/O pins routed through. Supposedly notebooks released in 2010 will incorporated this.

 

The other question is will it run amok with the 2510p's white list for PCIe cards.

 

Here are a couple more benchmarks from my 60GB OCZ Vertex...

• Boot XP: 36.8s
• Shutdown XP: 11.2s
• Start Firefox: 2.4s
• Hibernate 2GB: 7.7s
• Restore 2GB: 26.1s

Note: The hibernate numbers are what I was hoping for. They are close enough to the boot/shutdown numbers that I will not use hibernate anymore. When using the 1.8" ZIF HDD start-up and shutdown was so slow that I used hibernate a lot. On an SSD you don't want to do that especially when your RAM (2 GB) is 1/30th of your disk space. You'll be writing the whole disk every 30th shutdown.

Power Consumption

• lowest power: -6.2-6.9 (system idle, web browsing)
• average: 7.8-8.3
• max: 9.1-12.8 (installing, running hdd benchmarks)

2510p Configuration

• WIFI on
• swap move to 4gb sd card
• brightness 3 notches from left
• fresh xp sp3 install
• latest drivers
• ocz vertex 60gb in ebay caddy[/B]

Note: One patch that I installed on top of my SP3 installation seems to have pushed my power consumption up by almost 2W. I have yet to see a number below -8.1. When I was getting the 6 range fairly often.

 

I don't think it is the sound, gfx, chipset, wifi or sd cards. I installed XP SP3 from the Windows CD. Then install the WiFi for network access followed by the latest gfx and chipset drivers directly from Intel. I then took the first power consumption numbers and noticed the power jumping back and forth between the high and low ranges during normal usage. I was wondering if it was due to memory swapping so I proceeded to install the sd card, audio, touchpad, hp quick launch and intel gigabit nic using the hp website drivers. I didn't install any of the AMT or TPM drivers. Once the SD card was installed I move the swap partition to a Transcend 4GB SD card and set it to a fixed 3GB and deleted the C drive one. After a reboot I started hitting the -6.2-6.9 range and significantly less jumping to the high range (maybe because of changing the swap to fixed size or moving to the SD). I then started a Windows update and besides the OS patches I recall installing 2 HW patches. One was the touchpad and the other I think was the NIC. I wanted to install the latest drivers and that might have been a mistake. I distinctly recall getting the 6 range while downloading the patches and even during most of the install. It was after the reboot when my power consumption jumped to the 8 range on the low side. I did get a low to mid 7 yesterday, so I don't know if it will get better or stay on the high side.

I guess I need to see if I can back out of the drivers I installed. Maybe I'll try reinstalling the HP drivers first and see if that helps. Any suggestions are welcome.

 

Just a thought, I've noticed power usage will jump around a bit if you have bluetooth enabled but nothing paired.

 

I don't have bluetooth installed. I think the jumping around was related to memory swapping to the SSD. It went down significantly when I moved the swap partition to the SD card.

 

interesting... I normally disable my swap file.

 

Ok, just finished a couple of changes and here are the results.

Power consumption:
I checked my Windows update log and saw that I installed the Intel Giga NIC and Synaptics touchpad drivers. I went and uninstalled both drivers and installed the older HP drivers. My consumption is a bit better. I hit 6.9 and was hitting low 7s. Right now I am getting 7.6 while typing this. The battery meter shows 6h:31m for with the 6 hour battery. So still not back to the low 6s but better. I'm tempted to reinstall windows from scratch but that will be a lot of trouble so I'll pass right now.

eBay caddy pin 47 (set drive to master/slave):
I opened the caddy and did a continuity check on pin 47 as per Nando4's request and confirmed that it connects to the Marvel chip. The chip used is different from the other Marvel chip I've seen in the pictures he sent me. The chip marking is 88SA8040-TBC. If you look at the chip with the writing readable pin 47 connects to the top row of pins of the chip package and connects to the far right pin.

Setting caddy to Master:
I went ahead and bridged pins 45 and 47 on the rear of the JAE50 connector. This is easiest done by wedging a thin wire into the space between where the pad slides into the plastic. This is still fragile and not a permanent solution so I made sure the pins were still bridged on the front side of the connector after reassembling the caddy. I proceeded to power-up the 2510p and the caddy was recognized as a hard disk vs as a multi-bay. In XP I confirmed that the master channel was being used by the IDE controller. I then ran some benchmarks. In crystal mark writes went up from 31.3/31.2/7.8 to 35.1/36.3/8.1 MB/s. Strangely the reads went down to 82.5/77.2/13.2 from 88.5/82.3/17.5. Now if only we could get the caddy to work as a slave together with the ZIF drive.

 

I just upgraded my 2510p with a samsung 5400rpm 120gb harddrive to get it a bit snappier.
Everything works just fine. But i get a 1781 harddriv error when ever I boot.
I have scaned the harddrive in xp and in bios and it comes through error free.
But still I get the error message. True it only flashes by (about 5 sec) but it is anoying.. anyone know how I can fix this?

/Santzia

 

Are you using a caddy? I get something similar from time to time with my caddy. If you are using a caddy with a bridge chip, I suspect the drive is not yet ready due to the spin-up and other delays related to using a bridge chip. The bridge chip is saying to the bios that the drive is there, but the physical device is not ready yet to be addressed. I normally just power-up again. One way that might avoid this is to introduce a longer boot delay before the notebook checks for the drives. Try 5-10s.

 

Thanks for the help.

However I´m not using a caddy but rather upgraded the 1.8" zif drive in my 2510p. I can´t get any software to say that there is anything faulty with tha harddrive. But i still get the 1781 error when i boot.
I swapped back my original 4200rpm drive for now. will give it some more testing when I get back from my vacation. Atleast it is working. 9h fligth to New York would be hell without any entertainment...

/ Santzia

 

Check the seating of the ZIF cable on both ends. Is there any damage or is it loose? Clean it out since there might be dirt or grease. Are you using the original HP cable or something else?

 

Finally found some time to open my 2510p again. I went ahead and connected pin 47 to pin 41 and the caddy was recognized as a multi-bay again. But similar to when the caddy is in its default state it doesn't work once I connect the 1.8" ZIF HDD.

I'm typing this after booting up using the old 1.8" drive. 4200rpm feels really slow when booting.

 

Wow, that's alot of work for all this. Before I'd do all of that I'd just pickup one of the 5400rpm Samsung drives off ebay and call it good. I've seen them for ~$110 recently.

...Although I suppose I don't have much room to complain

 

I know what you mean. At this point I'd only recommend the caddy approach if you want to get rid of the 1.8" ZIF and DVD. So have a cheap solo SSD or big 2.5" SATA drive. My config will last me till my next notebook and I'll be monitoring the 1.8" ZIF SSD developments for a 80/80 MB/s R/W drive in the 64gb range for <$200.

 

yeah I saw that awhile back, crashed a test install of XP. I'd rather not mess with it since I'd rather my laptop stay reliable.

 

Request - can someone with a WWAN system check their pci-express ports

Does anyone on here with a 2510P have a WWAN card installed? If so, can they attempt to disable port1 as shown here. I've confirmed that the wifi card is pci-e port2, The strange thing is if I move the wifi card into the WWAN slot, it is not even detected as a device in XP. Rather strange. The 2510P has 2 enabled pci-e slots as shown in Device Manager on the left. So if you do have a WWAN card can you: 1/ Check your pci-express port listing in Device Manager. Are there more than 2 ports? 2/ Disable port1 as shown here to see if the WWAN stops working after that to ID that as port1.

The relevance here is to understand how the mini pci-e slot is working and whether vendors have possibly combined port1 and port2 into the single mini pci-e slot. That would open up the possibility of a x2 1.0 pci-e link for the DIY ViDock project.

 

The WWAN module shows up as a USB Device, I'll post a screenshot later.

As for the new Runcore...I wonder if this http://www.mydigitaldiscount.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=80000AD6-1246485054 Will work in the 2510p...

Edit: Here's a screen shot of my device manager


Disabling port1 did not disable the WWAN card.

 

I ordered the first version of the runcore pro right after the first batch was sold out from mydigitaldiscount back around Feb after a review on jkkmobile showed it to be fast for the standards back then. This was also before the troubles with the Jmicron controller were known. Runcore did limited testing with the zif version and once the hp mini users started installing it they would run into problems where the drive would not be recognized when connected to the zif cable. MDD was very responsive at first and would even respond directly to posts on the hp mini forum. But after several fixes of the zif cable and other problems where the drive had to be reworked and several recalls of the installed base they went silent. I didn't receive responses to my email on the status of my order so I assumed they had killed the product to focus on their eeepc and dell pcie cards. So I was surprised when I received a ship order for from MDD that the drive was being delivered. I sent a nasty email to MDD that I would refuse delivery and reverse any charges and this was no way to do business. Anyway it left a bitter taste in my mouth for the company and their us retailer. My recommendation is to wait till someone confiirms that it works in a 2510p before buying one.

 

Are you seeing any battery improvement? My OCZ Vertex is hitting mid to high 6s in power consumption again. I haven't had much reason to complain about power lately.

Just as a reference my OCZ Vertex in the caddy doesn't stutter at all. It's all about the 4k random writes and the problems with the Jmicron controllers (up to 2s random write).

PocketGeek which build of Win7 are you using? How is the power consumption on it (compared to XP)? I participated in the beta, but haven't installed it on my 2510p in fear of unoptimized drivers that will hog cpu cycles and reduce battery life.

 

I'm running the RTM of Windows 7 (Technet subscription yay!) I'm using the drivers that downloaded from Windows Update and for stuff still remaining I'm using Vista drivers, seems to work pretty good. As for power consumption it's a bit higher, I tend to stay in the low to mid 7's now.

 

Has anybody heard anything about these? http://www.ssdfactory.com/en/product-service/zif/index-1.html

I think they use the same controller as the ebay kingspec ssd's...

 

SSDFactory uses the Silicon Motion SM2233G controller and Samsung NAND flash. Same as the Photofast V2 and Kingspec. I've documented it here. The Runcore ProIV is the best-bang-per-buck option atm, giving superior performance with it's Indilinx controller for only a fraction more cost. Either are better than the Jmicron/JmicronB offerings.

Mtron > Runcore Pro IV/Photofast V3 (Indilinx) > Photofast V2/SSDFactory/Kingspec (SM2233G) > Runcore Pro (JMicron)

Though Mtron has highest power consumption, costs the most and is only limited to 32GB until Q3-2009 when they will give a 64GB ZIF offering.

 

the Runcore ProIV does seem to be the best bang for the buck...but they seem to have some pretty serious quality issues.

If the SSDFactory drives are the same as the Photofast V2 and Kingspec then they too should work in the 2510p.

 

Just installing a Runcore Pro IV 256 at the moment in the SATA Caddy... what test do u guys want to see

What Quality issues are they having ?

 

I'll have to see if I can dig it up again, but it seemed the zif runcore drives had quality control issues...like the wrong zif socket on the drive and whatnot.

 

Ah HA no I've just installed the 2.5 SATA via the newm PATA<>SATA Caddy..

Just reconfiguring it now for Master to see if it improves the Write Speed..

 

That caddy works pretty good, I just decided I'd rather not have to carry around an external DVD drive...