*HP 2510p Owners Lounge*

because I didn't know this site (I'm not used to buy on german site because I'm afraid to not understand and I didn't know there was an english version) . And also because the SSD is cheaper in Japan (185€ on Conics.net against 239€ on notebook.de for the Runcore pro IV 64GB ZIF)

 

well lets see... buying in the EU makes sure that you have warranty, cant help it if you don't know how to use google translation services... and shipping is a day... just trying to help ... no need to react in that way... personally I live in Dubai, and would prefer to be able to enforce my rights, especially if there is a problem or DOA... and your 185 Euros are without Shipping and if you are within the EU then you have to pay import tax = % VAT in your country, so a real comparison on the 2 would be 184 Euros to 185 Euros ... so nettbook.de is the Cheaper price (-Tax & Shipping fee) ... and your point was ?

FYI just checked on conics.net Runcore + shipping = 244.40EUR ... now we add tax + 19.5% = 292 Euro !!! Landed... wow..

 

hey, maybe that's because I don't speak English very well, but there is a misunderstanding, there's absolutly no agressivity in my tone. I really appreciate your help for the german site and will look into it next time I want to buy hardware for a notebook. I'm just explaining to you why I bought it on conics this time. I didn't payed any taxes (maybe I was lucky but for what I know, customs usually don't bother with small packages), and I payed 12€ for shipping with EMS (I could have payed only 4€ for shipping by airmail, but too risky for me). I checked on notebook.de and they only ship with UPS with a minimal cost of 30€. So that's 197€ against 269€.
It's just an explaination why for this product I would have prefered conics, but maybe next time notebook.de will be more interesting and I thank you for giving me the adress.

 

Congratulations the ways you have found to extend the 2510p continue to amaze me.

Am I right to assume that you need an external monitor. I'll check your link after I send this off.

 

I haven't. From what I last recall you need to be connected to drive's native interface then configure the SATA port to run in a specific (non-raid + something else) mode.

At some point I will try this by hooking up the drive directly to my PC SATA port, but I'm using my 2510p daily now and can't afford for it to be down.

 

The information is here on the forums. NANDO4 compiled it and I take the reason he hasn't responded to you is that your question is already answered in his posts.

As I suspected the link is on the first post of this thread. Here is the direct link on the caddy information: http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?p=4550480#post4550480

Not sure about the alternate PATA drive that you mentioned. I'd do a forum search and see if someone else is using it. Also check out the Samsung HM160HC thread. Someone mentioned other high performance options. The key was the 160GB 2.5" platters used. The focus of the thread was high performance and equal battery life. Not sure if someone did a low power consumption study. I'd Google it.

Just for clarification in case it wasn't clear. I get better battery life with my 2.5" OCD SSD in the eBay caddy despite the supposed 1W difference for the PATA to SATA bridge chip. I don't know if the improvement came from the SSD, the caddy or a fresh XP install, but the bottom line is that I get more than 6h on a 6 cell battery.

Out of interest how are you planning on using your 2510p that you need to have ultra long battery life?

We all make trade-offs, but I'm not sure getting a pata caddy is the best solution for low power. It is clearly worse off in the performance department, better in price but superior if you need a lot of disk space (though it looks like your buying a 120GB vs 160GB).

 

Good news guys, my eBay caddy using the Marvel 88SA8040-TBC chip is now doing sequential writes at 65MB/s! That's 2x what I was getting previously.

Nando4 has been bugging me to find a way to enable master mode properly on the eBay caddy that uses the Marvell 88SA8040-TBC and I finally figured out the problem. I verified that grounding pin 47 on the JAE50 connector is the correct way to set master mode. This pin leads to the Chip Select pin of the Marvell chip. Upon booting the HP Bios reported a 'Notebook Hard Drive' instead of an Optical Drive. I had done this in the past, but surprisingly the performance was substandard and I would only get sequential writes of around 31MB/s.

What did I do different this time? I turned power saving mode off by selecting the profile "always on". I read somewhere that this was one explanation why OCZ drives didn't perform to according to spec. I first confirmed that the Vertex drive didn't have any problem by connecting it to my desktop PC using the SATA interface directly. I got 160MB/s / 90MB/s R/Ws. Then I went ahead and trimmed the drive to rule that out. I then reinstalled the drive into the caddy which I had previously set to master. On boot-up I got the desired 'Notebook Hard Drive' in the boot menu. I then proceeded to run Crystal Disk Mark without changing the power saving settings. I got 31MB/s on the sequential writes. I then changed the power settings to always on and got these results:

Read Seq 87.87, 512K 82.03, 4K 17.64
Write Seq 65.33, 512K 65.12, 4K 7.077

My system was fast enough already so I'll continue to use portable/laptop power saving settings to get better battery life. Still it is nice to see the Marvell based caddy performing better.

For folks that don't mind removing their Optical Drive and want the best performance at the lowest cost go get a Marvell based caddy off eBay ($19-29 shipped) and a 2.5" SSD with Indilinx controller. 60GB works great for me (I have 802.11N running at 130Mbps for accessing my home server drives and if I need more space on the go I can plug in a 320GB 2.5 drive via USB.

The only warning is that I never got the drive working with my original 1.8 ZIF HDD as master and the caddy as slave.

 

This is great news!! Is there a *big* difference in subjective performance? I'd anticipate hibernation time has halved.

Since you don't have the ZIF drive anymore, you can't jumper pin 1 and 2 to set it as slave, in which case would have the 2.5" SSD + 1.8" (slow) HDD.

Any chance you can do a harddisk test, like the Scorpio Black or even an older model?? I really want a comparison against Passmark's Performance Test (once of my last posts highlights the *poor* performance with the newmodeus caddy). Crystaldiskmark doesn't seem to reflect the real performance difference I see between a SATAI native and the newmodeus caddy.. crystaldiskmark being similar for both.

I guess it would be great if you could post a set of new benchmarks with the ebay caddy as master (ie: Crystaldiskmark, Atto, Passmark's Performance Test). At the moment we have

..........Read | Write Seq: ..87.87 | 65.33 512K: 82.03 | 65.12 4K: ...17.64 | 7.077

Left: Runcore ProIV SATA 256MB in newmodeus sata-to-pata caddy as MASTER
Middle: Runcore ProIV ZIF benchmark from here on a HP Mini 1000.
Right: sfsilicon's result: 60GB OCZ Vertex in ebay (Marvell) sata-to-pata optical bay caddy set as master.

 

I can't tell much difference (between 31 and 65 writes - I guess since I mostly surf and do office work on the laptop the things I notice most are start/shutdown and program launches). I hardly ever hibernate anymore. I just shutdown since it is about 10s to do that and I want to avoid writing 2GB of data to the SSD on a regular basis unless it can't be avoided. Less writes = longer flash life.

I can't easily run a HDD test because the only drive I have 160GB from an Acer Aspire has data on it. Since I have only 1 drive I'll need to install an OS on the drive to run any benchmarks. Did you run your HDD tests in power saving or always on mode? If the former, I'd try running them again. I'll try to run a set of benchmarks again. I have the Crystal Disk Mark screenshot but I need to find time to run a full set and upload them to my server.

One last note. I'm not sure your Runcore ProIV screenshot is correct. I checked out the referenced video earlier and it the description on the page says SATA even though those numbers would be slow for native SATA. Too bad you can't see the capacity of the drive. The larger the capacity the better the write speed.

There are 2 sets of benchmarks on ProIV benchmarks in this thread. Those are inline with all the other PATA to SATA Indilinx benchmarks.

 

Hello,

I just bought my new 2510p laptop. I want to upgrade with a Kingspec SSD. But I find them with 44 pin or 40 pin connector. See for example here: http://www.memoryc.com/storage/solidstatedisk.html?Brands=KingSpec&Form_Factor=1.8"

Which one do I need?

Thanks for your help!

 

thanks a lot. I understood more how to upgrade my 2510p.
It seems Runcore, win 7 and 2510p don't have any compatible issue. I will buy Runcore ProIV Zif soon with using windows 7. I think it should have a great improvement in my nb sson.

 

So anyone bought the HD caddy and using a intel X25 G2 with it ? Would be nice to know if theres any compatible issues with this setup and 2510p

 

Hmm, ok thanks . SO it seems that a Runcore 1.8 ZIF is the safest bet.

 

I've received my PATA Caddy and the Samsung HM160HC hdd.
here are the photos and the benchmark results

the caddy:


unscrewing the JAE50 connector


the HM160HC:



the benchmarks when the HM160HC connected as slave:




the benchmarks when the HM160HC connected as master:



thank you all for the information

 

Could I ask if you could run the Disk Benchmark from Passmark's Performancetest and capture the screen (ctrl-prtscn) ? I documented unusually poor performance using the newmodeus sata-to-pata caddy (as master) with a pretty quick 500GB Fujitsu drive here, so am wondering if your setup is actually *faster*. I have a feeling the answer is "yes", but your benchmarks would confirm that.

 

No problem

 

runcore ssd make my notebook life difference.. it's much faster. it's take around 45 sec startup win 7, take 1 sec to start most the application and take 5 sec to shut down the pc... yeah, i really like it

 

Hi does any one have any images or pin configeration for doing the place a hairpin thin wire between the 1.8" ZIF HDDs pin 1 and 2 to set is as slave.

 

INFO: Jumpering the Toshiba MK8009GAH ZIF HDD as slave



From my previous picture. I confirm this is the correct way to do it as that's how I got my ZIF as slave/sata HDD in caddy as master benchmarks.

Pin1 is the bottom-most ZIF pin, Pin2 is the one above it. I bared a wire, twisting three very fine strands together, wedged it in the space between the two pins to bridge them, curled it towards the edge, then stuck it down with cellophane tape. If successful, you'll be able to choose Optical Disk Drive (slave) in the bootup menu and it will direct the bootprocess to the ZIF HDD. A bit fiddly, getting near magnifying glass size to work with, but can be done in under 10 mins with a bit of patience. Hopefully only once in a while.

May I ask what you intend to run as master? Perhaps even have something like a Intel X25-M G2 in the higher performance ebay optical bay caddy that you could share benchmark data?

 

Hi Nando4
I have purchested a SATA 2nd Hard Disk Drive caddy for HP COMPAQ Laptop. I will be placing a 2.5" sata harddrive in it as master and slave the origanal 1.8 Zif drive. I was also thinking about the 1.8" 64gig Kingspec SSD from ebay.

 

[ deleted - redundant ]

 

Hello,

I also have a 2510p and I am very happy with that device except the speed of the HDD. Therefore I ordered a new SSD drive but this is not working like expected. The computer doesn’t recognise the drive (no HDD found and the BIOS shows all HDD options in light grey which are not selectable any more). Maybe the drive has a defect or the ZIF cable is broken.

Just to check if I did something wrong in the configuration so that I can locate the problem:
The following configuration should work, or?

Notebook HP 2510p
Replacing original 1,8 ZIF HDD with
RunCore 128GB Pro 1,8 - Fact.-No.: RCP-IV-Z1828-C

Thanks for your help.

 

INFO: replacement ZIF cable (DD00T2HD001)

Would suggest try re-connecting the supplied 1.8" ZIF HDD with the cable and see if it works OK. If not, then likely the cable has been damaged requiring a replacement. There are DD00T2HD001 replacements on ebay starting from US$6-shipped worldwide for a genuine item. I prefer the genuine golden colored ones with foil backing and text markings on either side just because I know they work well.


Above: Left is the US$11-shipped replacement 2510P ZIF cable received from newlaptop168, right is the original cable with a scorched edge. They are identical. The fault here was the ZIF pin ends had lifted so was no longer connecting through to the ZIF socket. The scorching being the result of a failed attempt at a repair.

Using the ZIF SSD stiffener I had missed that the stiffener is available on the ZIF SSD, thinking that perhaps such a facility exists but the ZIF connector looks so fragile that I didn't dare explore in case I broke something. Well, there is a stiffener that can be flicked up which then really does make it Zero Force Insertion (ZIF). Suggest disconnecting the ZIF cable, wiping it clear of any remnanets from it's last position, then reseating it.

The ZIF cable only goes about 1mm into the ZIF socket. The white line on the cable lines up closer to the against the outer edge of my Toshiba ZIF HDD as shown below:



If using a non-Toshiba ZIF HDD, suggest try booting it *without* the optical drive installed just in case there is some master/slave issue between them.

 

Hi,

I have been using my 2510p for more than a year now. Here's its story:

It shipped with Vista Business. I used this operating system for about 2 months. It worked quite nice, expect that it was really slow. At first I didn't complain about it because what really mattered is that I could work with it, so it was not really a big deal. But about 2 months later, my anti virus reminded me that its license would expire in two weeks. I didn't want to pay for a new license so I just continued working without doing anything about that. One day before the expiration date, I got a new warning about it. I still didn't do anything. 2 days later, it was completely broken. How suspicious!

The system was unbelievably slow and even failed to start a few times. So I decided to install a linux distribution on my machine. It was not the first time I tried a linux based operating system, but it was the first time I installed it for an everyday use. I chose Ubuntu 8.10, since it was known to be "linux for human beings". If you are new to the linux world, then Ubuntu it the right thing for you. The installation is straightforward and it is as easy to use as Windows. It's just different.

Well, it worked quite well, and the system started in less than a minute (whereas Vista required a minute and a half or something).

During the next months, my knowledge about linux operating systems grew and I tried multiple distributions:

Slitaz 2.0: Very fast OS, but still buggy and too minimal. Couldn't get wifi to work with this one. And max resolution it wanted to display was 1024x768 (screen allows 1280x800). I'll try it again in march 2010 when version 3.0 gets released.

Xubuntu 9.04: Very complete, has all the things you need. Everything worked fine with this one. I didn't try the finger sensor though, I'm not using it so it's disabled. System desktop reached in about 45 seconds from power button press.

and a lot more... (Damn Small, Puppy, Fedora, etc.)

until I discovered Arch ( www.archlinux.org).

At first it can be quite confusing to install, because the base system doesn't have any graphical tool at all. You must use the command line to install it, and know your hardware.

But it's simply the best operating system I came to use. I like it's minimal base system. It doesn't come with loads of software you will never use preinstalled. Even so, you have the choice to install thousands of packets, stored on repositories, with mirrors all around the globe.

All this for free (yes, most linux distributions are free of charge).

And that's when I really started to tweak my system for better response times.

With a highly tweaked rc.sysinit (init script), my 2510p laptop needed 32 seconds to reach fully loaded desktop from Power button press.

We know that the BIOS on the 2510p takes roughly 8 seconds to load so the boot time was 32-8 = 24 seconds. Which was a nice performance knowing that this machine has a 1.33 GHz dual core cpu, and a very slow hard drive.

Still, my quest for a faster boot time was not over.

I searched the web and found this thread.

So after reading this thread, I chose to replace the bottleneck hard drive with a 64 GB Runcore ZIF SSD.

It's been a whole week since I received and installed it, now.

Here are the results:



Boot time is now 9 seconds with the new SSD. That makes a 17 seconds cold start (BIOS load time + system boot time). Power button press to fully loaded desktop. I'm never buying a new laptop without an SSD. This component reduced my boot time by 15 seconds, with the exact same configuration.

For those of you who would like to try an alternative to Windows, I recommand starting with Ubuntu (version 9.10 was released last week), and then once you know a bit more about it, you can try something different.
Ubuntu : www.ubuntu.com

Of course, windows executables won't work with this operating system (unless you use "Wine" but it doesn't work with everything), so you have been warned. Hopefully there are software equivalents to help you do your work.

For example, if you're familiar with Microsoft Office (word, excel, powerpoint, etc.) then you will have no problem using the Open Office suite which is exactly the same, but free and open source.

Here's a screenshot of my everyday system:

http://omploader.org/vMm82cw/2009-11-01-165214_1280x800_scrot.png
(this is Archlinux using the Openbox window manager, tint2 task bar, conky system monitor and firefox web browser)

Configuration possibilities with linux are close to infinity. So you can build your own system so that it fits your needs. This is what I really like with it.

I hope you liked my little story about this true beast (2510p).

Regards,

spiridow

 

Updated eBay caddy with OCZ Vertex 60GB SSD benchmarks. Note that turning on power saving mode in XP will have a significant impact on the write performance (65 vs 31 MB/s) of the drive/caddy.




Just to complete the benchmarks I also tested boot and shutdown with no power saving enabled:
XP Boot = 24s (from pressing power button to login screen)
Login to XP desktop =~5s (most is my typing so the actual time could be 1-2s)
XP Shutdown = 13s

Folks if you can afford it do yourself a favor and get either an Intel or Indilinx SSD. Best bang for the buck in my experience.

 

When I installed the OS I chose the automatic partitioning, and I didn't modify my partitions since then, so I'm not sure if it's aligned or not. I only chose the size of the partitions, but nothing like alignment.

My SSD is partitioned like this:

/ is formated as ext4
/boot is formated as ext2
/home is formated as ext4
and a swap partition

The output of sudo fdisk -l is

Code:

Disk /dev/sda: 64.0 GB, 64023257088 bytes
255 heads, 63 sectors/track, 7783 cylinders
Units = cylinders of 16065 * 512 = 8225280 bytes
Disk identifier: 0x3dab324e

   Device Boot      Start         End      Blocks   Id  System
/dev/sda1   *           1          13      104422   83  Linux
/dev/sda2              14          46      265072+  82  Linux swap / Solaris
/dev/sda3              47        2596    20482875   83  Linux
/dev/sda4            2597        7783    41664577+  83  Linux

 

Your partitions are not aligned. The linux fdisk aligns to cyclinder boundaries and is as yet not SSD-alignment aware, so need to do it manually as discussed here. If using Win7 to create new paritions, they will be automatically aligned to 1MB boundaries.

Recommend refer also to OCZ SSD: Guide Linux - Tips, tweaks and alignment . You'll want to schedule wiper.sh to keep the performance in "as new" condition. My understanding is the 1.8" ZIF ProIV is using the same Indilinx Barefoot Controller as the OCZ Vertex/Agility, packaged in a 1.8" form factor with a sata-to-pata bridge chip so the OCZ Vertex documentation applies.

 

WARNING: FSB Overclocking means higher operating temperature. Observe decent cooling precautions. I take no responsibility for any damage. User beware.

INFO: Overclocking the 2510P using grub2 bootloader

Can overclock starting at grub2 bootloader which maintains the faster speed independently of whatever operating systems you are booting into. Eg: OSX. See here for instructions. Using this method means steps 1-3 below for Linux are redundant. Step4 and Step5 can be used to maintain the overclocked state after resume-from-standby using the standalone binary.

INFO: Overclocking the 2510P in Linux

See kecap's update here on how to get this to work on the most recent Linux kernels.

Warning: O/C can damage components, observe cooling precautions. Summarizing from SoftFSB OCing 4 Linux (Dev) thread here and here.

The steps required to successfully overclock a 2510P's ics9lprs355 PLL in Linux are below. This was tested on my 9.04 Jaunty system. Previously I needed to boot into Windows, run setfsb, then warm boot into Linux to overclock. Steps below could be applied to other systems, modifying the system specific parameters in (1) and (2). Combing the overclock with Xorg Intel 2.9.0 X3100 driver results in noticably brisker graphics response. I found the overclock needed to be done after the wifi radio had been turned on otherwise the wifi card failed to initiate. So rather than use init scripts, I overclock via /etc/gdm/PostLogin/Default.

1. Enable SMBUS to allow communication with the PLL

The 2510P bios disables the ICH8M SMBus. Enable it by setting bit 3=0 at RCBA+3418H (Function Disable register). RCBA is stored at 0/31/0 F0-F3h. So can identify the RCBA address with a setpci (Linux) or Baredit (Windows).

Code:

$ setpci -s 0:1f.0 f0.l
fed90001

RCBA=FED90001 on the 2510P. "read_dword 0xFED93418" in grub2's commandline tells me the bios set value of the Function Disable is 0x33C000D. The rightmost digit 0xD=1101 (bit3:0). So we want 0x5=0101. Three ways 0x33C0005 can be written to the 0xFED93418, the first being the simplest.

(i) Download and install grub2 1.94b3 or newer and place the following entry in your Linux boot menuitem. grub2 replaces legacy grub in Ubuntu 9.10 (Karmic Koala).

/boot/grub/grub.cfg

Code:

write_dword 0xFED93418 0x33C0005

(ii) Or use the DIY ViDock DOS bootdisk supplied with pt.exe, and do the write using 'pt MEM write 4 0xFED93418 0x33c0005' , then chainload Linux using the supplied grub4dos by running 'grub'.

(iii) Or recompile the kernel doing the equivalent memory write in kernel code.

You'll know when this has been successfully implemented as the SMBus device will appear on lspci output:

Code:

$ lspci | grep -i smbus
00:1f.3 SMBus: Intel Corporation 82801H (ICH8 Family) SMBus Controller (rev 03)

2. Install lfsb with 2510P's ics9lprs355 PLL support

Download lfsb-ics9lprs355.tgz. It has a lfsb precompiled x86 binary. Can also compile it yourself by downloading lfsb-0.4.1, extracting it and copying the lfsb-ics9lprs355.tgz files over the lfsb source and then 'make' it.

Copy lfsb into the path /usr/local/bin

3. Test overclocking

NOTE: lfsb does not show the correct CPU frequency in the examples below.

Test overclocking with one of the following frequencies: 133 142 150 158 167 175. I use 167 (ie: 1.2Ghz -> 1.5Ghz), checking the faster glxgears response with the faster FSB.

Code:

# glxgears
3141 frames in 5.0 seconds = 628.014 FPS
3144 frames in 5.0 seconds = 628.709 FPS
3149 frames in 5.0 seconds = 629.635 FPS
^C
# modprobe i2c_dev
# modprobe i2c_i801
# lfsb -y ics9lprs355 167
-------------------------------------------------------------
CPU frequency : 17.32 MHz (estimated)
PLL ics9lprs355 is supported.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Changing to:
FSB=167 MHz
FSB frequency changed.
-------------------------------------------------------------
CPU frequency : 34.02 MHz (estimated)
FSB=167 MHz
-------------------------------------------------------------
# glxgears
3938 frames in 5.0 seconds = 787.588 FPS \
3930 frames in 5.0 seconds = 785.827 FPS  [COLOR="Red"]-- Improved rendering speed[/COLOR]
3922 frames in 5.0 seconds = 784.286 FPS /

4. Add overclock to be automated on startup

If overclocking is stable, add to be automatically started up:

/etc/modules

Code:

# wifi - before the i2c drivers
iwlagn

# Add i2c modules to be able to communicate with the PLL for overclocking
i2c_dev
i2c_i801

/etc/gdm/PostLogin/Default

Code:

# Overclock 2510P from 133->167 FSB
/usr/local/bin/lfsb -y ics9lprs355 167

5. Add overclock upon resume-from-standby or resume-from-hibernate

Create script as shown below. For unknown reason I can only overclock up to 150Mhz FSB after a resume. 158Mhz results in video garbage and system hanging.

/etc/pm/sleep.d/02overclock

Code:

#!/bin/bash
case $1 in
   hibernate)
       ;;
   suspend)
       ;;
   resume|thaw)
       # need to re-init the i2c bus after a resume
       modprobe -r i2c-dev; modprobe i2c-dev
       modprobe -r i2c-i801; modprobe i2c-i801
      
       # 158 freezes the video after standby.. 150 is still OK
       /usr/local/bin/lfsb -y ics9lprs355 150
       ;;
   *)
       ;;
esac

 

INFO: Undo the slave PATA 30MB/s sequential write speed capping

Update 9-9-2012: NBRuser has a simplified scripts and a MBR fix to correct this problem here.

[/TD]

The cause of this slowdown appears to be a combination of two things: (i) the bios writes 0x3033 to 0/31/1 54h, implying the master and slave should be running full 66Mhz/ATA100 timings with 80 cable connector. Running Linux's 'setpci -s 0:31.1 54.l' or checking in grub2 confirms this to be the case. This should theoretically set the fastest timings for both channels but my testing found this not to be the case. 0/31/1 54h must be 0x1033 for the fast 66Mhz timings on both channels. Seems the ICH8M is reading bit 13 reversed (slave timings) so it needs to be 0. (ii) the Windows IDE driver changes the bios set 0x3033 to 0x1011. The net result is the ICH8M slave channel uses 33Mhz rather than 66Mhz internal timings. I used baredit to manually set the 66Mhz timing by writing 0x1033. Upon the very next run of Crystaldiskmark with my 500GB HDD as slave, without any need for a reboot sees 60MB/s writes as seen on the master channel. Up from the ~20MB seen in the 33Mhz mode. I simulated the result on the 64GB Runcore ProIV ZIF SSD on the master channel and we see it too has < 30MB/s sequential writes when running in 33Mhz mode as seen by the Crystaldiskmark results. Right: baredit image of 2510P 0/31/1 54h. Info as extracted from ICH8M I/O datasheet.
	33Mhz master+slave	66Mhz master+slave

How to set the slave channel into 66Mhz mode for the faster write performance?

A resume-from-standby will lose this setting, so need the following to run after a resume. Can use the resume-setfsb.vbs script that runs in a loop infinitely looking for a resume event. Just need to add c:\barsave\baredit in the script to run when it detects a resume event.

There must be a registry setting somewhere to prevent the driver from running 33Mhz mode, but where??
To see the same faster writes in Linux, ensure add a 'setpci -s 0:1f.1 54.l=1033' into /etc/gdm/PostLogin/Default as well as create an entry in /etc/pm/sleep.d like shown in the post above this one.

UPDATE: Root cause analysis

The reason why the Windows driver is switching slave into the 40pin 33Mhz mode is because the ATAPI data against the HDD is set to 40pin cable mode. It would seem the bios sets this in the drive. hdparm doesn't have an option to change it either. See below:

 

I have a HP 2510p. Whilst looking for a cure to the speaker connection being loose, I found this thread. I am curious to see that the performance can be improved with a new hard drive. As someone who is not as savvy as most of the posters seem to be, could you tell me how easy is it to install the 64 GB Runcore ZIF SSD. Is it a simple matter of making an image of the current disk, removing it, and then putting in the new disk and putting the image onto it? (I use acronis for this) Will I need any additional connection hardware to install the SDD?

As an aside can someone advise how I can find instructions to take the laptop apart so I can do something to the speaker connection. At present I only get sound if I press hard on the case just next to the touchpad.

Please be gentle with a newbie poster

Thanks

Tudorlaptop

 

You can download the Service Manual directly from HP
HP actually have a whole directory of useful documents on the 2510p. Really great support from HP.

I also had/have trouble with the speaker, it only occationally made any sound at all. You really have to take the laptop apart totally to reach the speaker. Unfortunately, I was unable to make it work - the speaker seems to be inside a molded/glued plastic unit. If you manage to make it work, let me know what you did.

Regards and good luck.

BTW, thanks nando4 for this excellent thread. It really biased me into getting the 2510p, I like modding good things into being even better. Now waiting for a 2.5" IDE caddy and external slim dvd casing to arrive from China. Planning on using the Samsung HM160HC as only hard drive with Windows 7 (tiny 7 version). Will look into overclocking too eventually.

 

Thanks losdrivare.

Can I ask why you are getting the Samsung drive rather than a solid drive? Will it slot straight into the existing HDD slot or will you need an adapter?
If I did the same, could I simply take the image off the old HDD and put it onto the new?
Do you think I will notice an improvement in the performance of Dragon Voice Recognition?

Thanks in advance

Tudorlaptop

 

tudorlaptop, HM160HC is the fastest IDE 2.5'' ever and it also silent and cool.

and it's a realy cheep option.
I bought the Caddy in ebay for 18$ and the HM160HC in a local store (not the best price i could get but the closest store ) for about 80$.
So I've upgraded my laptops speed more then twice for less then 100$.
The price was the most importent thing for me.

***edit: and I've 160GB (not 32GB ZIF SSD that i can get for the same price)

 

Cost vs performance/capacity, mainly. I don't think the SSDs are worth their money quite yet, also it would make no sense to spend about as much on the HD as I have on the entire laptop (got the 2510p cheap second hand). The HM160HC is still a very nice upgrade with almost 3x the storage and 3x the speed compared to the original 1.8" drive.

Instructions for using a 2.5" drive, as well as other upgrade options, are all in the first post of this thread. You need a 2.5" caddy that replaces your DVD drive (original drive is 1.8"). I'd recommend doing a fresh OS install rather than imaging/ghosting over your old install.

I don't use Dragon Voice Recognition, but if it's a disk intensive app you should notice improvements. If it's CPU intensive, then consider overclocking (read first post of thread).

 

Thanks for spelling this out. Can I ask why you prefer the 2.5 drive in a caddy? Is there no fast 1.8" drive one could replace the original drive with?
If I go down the HM160HC route, what should I google to get the right caddy?

Thanks again
TudorLaptop

 

[ deleted - redundant ]

 

Hey Nando, great to see you took the SSD plunge. Any regrets? Where did you end up buying your Runcore? Was the ZIF installation as easy as you wrote? Did you have any issues with running the ZIF and caddy together? Which is running as master?

 

I've got a question:
Did someone here using windows 7?
I've got problems with the quick launch buttons... (Vista 64 version)
They sometimes work, sometimes not....
especialy after standby or hibernate the ambient light sensor buttons and screen backlight not working correctly.
Anyone have the same problem?

 

I didn't have any problem with Windows 7 on my 2510p, although I never used standby or hibernate. First thing I'd try is installing the newest HP Quicklaunch button app for Windows 7. http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/SoftwareDescription.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&prodTypeId=321957&prodSeriesId=3782222&prodNameId=3782253&swEnvOID=4061&swLang=13&mode=2&taskId=135&swItem=ob-77248-1

That's actually from the 2530p download section but they work for the 2510p too. (and nc2400)

 

Has anyone found or tried a 12.1" touchscreen DIY kit for the 2510p?

Has anyone replaced their fan? I know the instructions are in the service manual, but I'm wondering if you can select a different fan since the HP one is load. Mine seems to be hitting something when it spins up to full speed.

 

pocket geek, thanx alot, I'll try it when I'll have more time and report whether it helpful

 

hi
I'm new to the forum but i wana say that i have an 2510p and overclocked it to 166 mhz fsb by hardware mod and i must say IT WORKS now running@ 1492.6 GHZ by 165.7 mhz fsb with set fsb i can set it back or original

for NOOBS its hard to wire the chip !!!


ps :
seems that the pll can set allways even after the deep sleep more info will come (with foto's)

 

Congratulations! If setfsb overclocks fine at 166Mhz, then yes, the hardware pinmod being preferred if don't have a warranty and are skilled to do the mod. Since the PLL is being hardset will maintain the setting between standby/resume events.

 

I dismantled the system but did not make anny picture from the back of the mainboard so sorry I have no picture of that but i will make one if its open again.

can the bios whitelist be changed with addcc or so because i want an other wlan card in my laptop
http://www.ubnt.com/products/sr71e.php
that one is VERRY long range n draft
i have tried to thange it with addc but i don't get it to work

Can you help me with that?

 

When you had the laptop open did you notice how the speaker is connected? Mine only works if I press on the case just to the right of the touchpad. I want to know if is is worth the hassle of opening it all up.

Thanks
TL

 

The speaker in under the mainboard (i have replaced 2 monts ago it was broken) and its cost a lot of time to get there
under the touch pad is the connector (2 wire red and black) you possibly get ther by removing the 4 screws behind rubbers and bow the case (see mainboard foto in next post

the connector is at the right of the touchpad it may be loose

 

here are the foto's from the mainboard and mod

 

[ deleted - this post is quoted completely in the next post ]

 

I lift lifted the pin from the mainboard and puted a wire on.
my solder equipment is an weller wpc60 and it was HARD to do

http://www1.conrad.nl/scripts/wgate..._display=fromoutside&~cookies=1&scrwidth=1280


the 2510P mPCIe whitelisting workaround didn't work for me don't know what I'm doing wrong (I burned a cd an runned it but no luck) but when taping pin 20 of pcie there is no difference the wlan button works so maby that is the problem
i found a picture from pcie bus but i don't know of it was the pcb or connector site

maybe you can help me ??


ps the pll still freeses i still need the resume trick

 

Critical is you need a pci-e snapshot of YOUR system. If you burnt a CD previously then this would not have been done. Suggest using a USB or floppy disk as you'll need to save data to it.

INFO: Workarounds to bios whitelisting of WWAN/WIFI mPCIe slots

8/28/10: see modded bios for some modified whitelist entries.

Devices in the 2510P whitelist Use ADDCC V3 to add a non-HP device to these lists.


Left: The wifi whitelist, underlined is the 4965AGN card supplied with my system
Right: The USB WWAN whitelist with items as below:

- HP HS2300 (Sierra MC8775) WWAN card ID:03F0 1E1D
- HP EV2200 (Sierra MC5720) WWAN card ID:03F0 1B1D
- HP EV2210 (Sierra MC5725) WWAN card ID:03F0 211D

ADDCC has been used successfully to add Intel 5100AGN wifi to the 2510P whitelist here, a Dell 5530 WWAN to a 2710P whitelist here.

I tried to modify the wwan whitelist for a MC8781 (1199:6858) but it would not not appear in device manager/lsusb. A Lenovo S10 user had the same problem. Not sure if my wwan slot is kaput or the bios needs some specific initialisation that the MC8781 fails to do.