*HP EliteBook 8460p Owners Lounge!*

HD3000 is built into the CPU so the system board which supports integrated graphics is the one without ATI chip. I've seen many systems with switchable graphics with HM65 chipset. Even high end Envy series comes with QM67. Maybe QM67 itself doesn't support switching if external GPU is present.

 

Sure, the CPU has an iGPU in it. HP would have needed to design the systemboard and changed the bios settings to support switching b/w the iGPU and dGPU. Some probooks have it but the dGPU-equipped SB elitebooks don't. It puts HP at the bottom of the heap if you want a dGPU+battery life since Dell and Lenovo both have implemented switchable graphics. Dell going so far as to have the ability to mux through the dGPU or use Optimus making it the best choice for Linux. Lenovo uses Optimus.

 

Will new mobile Ivy bridge fit the socket on 8460p?) hd4000 instead of hd3000?)

 

hi all, i´ve a strange bluetooth issue since F25 update...
As a part of the new BIOS i´ve installed a clean windwos and configured dualboot with debian 6. bluetooth is correct installed, but in windows no devices were found, at debain i´m able to pair my htc sensation, but the during filetransfers the connection backfires...
Somebody else noticed any bluetooth issues after F25 update?

regards,
mallok

 

F.25 was pulled down from HP's servers. I suggest you to roll back to F.22 or consult with HP.

 

Thanks for quicl reply.
I´ve already considered to downgrade, but I´m a yellowebelly
It´s brick-free to roll back from a higher version?

greetz

 

You can roll back to F.20 or F.22. I have tried that before.

 

A new f.26 bios appeared. Does anybody checked it ? Is sata III still blocked?

 

Didn't notice that. Hp screwed up every BIOS after F.20 and I plan to stick at F.08 where everything works perfectly.

 

I've got a routine alert message from hp. but at download page only f.22 presented. i suppose hp reserved some new features for up comming models. In opposite case difference between older and new ones diminish)))

 

Can anybody confirm if the 8460P is RAID-0 capable? I found here that the 2560P is RAID-1 capable but not RAID-0.

If a 8460P is RAID-0 capable then perhaps it gives incentive to 2560P users to try to get a 8460P bios on there system. It would work if the systems are architecturally the same. We've just had the 2560P schematic posted at http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-.../586353-hp-elitebook-2560p-owners-lounge.html in case you wanted to compare. Some ways of hacking the bios are proposed below...

ME 8.x firmware on Series-6 system to allow Ivy Bridge CPU support?

See Ivy Bridge CPU retrofit for 2560P? which may apply to the 8460P.

 

In theory yes....

I spent quiet a while trying to get two HP 350gb 7200rpm self encrypting drives to work a couple of weeks ago with no luck....

The HP guide to RAID for the 8460p is a total waste of time and effort.

However, since then a very nice person at intel sent me a 'f6' driver for installing Windows 7 with RAID which should work with this chipset.

With the stock HP recvery disks, when I attempted to install with two drives in RAID, I'd get no drivers found and Windows would fail to install. However with this driver it should work.... But, since I'm in India and not at home in the UK I don't have access to the two drives and the second drive caddy.

I'm not due back for a few weeks, but if anyone wants the driver I'll be happy to email it to them or post if here (if there's some where to do that).

 

So I've been playing a few games on my 8460p, and the fans run wicked fast, which is not a problem - the problem is that they seem to be doing barely any work. I have used multiple laptops for playing games and this laptop is giving me cooling abilities of 5 year old laptops.

SpeedFan is showing these readings (on average) -

Temp 1 = 36'C
Temp 2 = 88'C
Temp 3 = 65'C
.....
Core 0 = 79'C

I'd like to know if anyone else is experiencing these problems? It never really became noticeable until about a week back, and I've noticed these temperatures within minutes of firing up Bad Company 2, Sims 3, FIFA 12 (tried out different games to record temps). I have never used a cooler but now I see I might have to. Just extremely disappointed with the cooling in this laptop and hoping nothing melts down for that matter lol

feedback, anyone? thanks

 

Does your 8460p comes with ATI graphics? If yes, then heat will be a problem because the cooling is barely capable to cool down the CPU alone.

 

It literally takes minutes to unscrew the fan and then the cooling plate which will then provide access to both chips. I did it a few weeks back with considerably better thermal paste.

My fan will and does now stay off. Read back a few pages for a little bit more.

 

I'd like to replace my optical drive with a second harddrive.
Apparently I need the official HP Upgrade Bay which comes only with a HD included and is too expensive.

Are there any cheap alternatives and anyone made experiences with them?

 

- THIS - is the caddy I am using right now. I found lots and lots of alternatives when I was doing my own research but they were all comparatively pricey... so I took a risk and got this rather cheap one.

It works perfectly at SATA III speeds with my SanDisk Extreme SSD, but there are a couple of things I'd like to point out -

The SSD is small and thus doesn't stay securely in the caddy, but I remedied this by taping a small attachment that came with it (is it for this purpose? I could find not other use for it, really. Strange) This was a hassle but whatever.
The Second issue is that it cannot be screwed in like the optical drive could be. Which means, a strong thud and it might fall out. This never happened and I've handled it pretty roughly, but I'm still a little wary. It sticks in tightly so its a little hard to take out.
You can take the faceplate from your optical drive and replace the one on this caddy.

All for under $20? Works for me, I was being cheap haha since I was spending on the SSD. It does what it's supposed to do, and now I have my SSD in the hard drive bay and the original hdd is in this caddy. Flawless performance. But you could spend more and get a caddy that's (apparently) guaranteed to work and easy to install. Take a look at this video and here is the product link itself - 2nd HDD / SSD caddy, HP 8460, 8460p, 8460w (compare 643921-001) [HP-2BAY-8460p] - $44.75 : NewmodeUS, Hard Drive Caddys for Notebooks

$45 though, think about it. Hope this helps

 

Nope, it doesn't have the ATI graphics option, I've just been using the HD3000, which is why I'm so surprised. I have not OCed anything (don't even know if that is possible on this) Is this laptop known for cooling issues?

I've thought about it and didn't get around to doing it yet haha, wondering if it would be worth it or not. I will give it a try now though, have any particular cooling paste to recommend? Arctic Silver? I know the theory but have never done this before haha

 

Although it might 'not' be the absolute best 'OMG it's the bizz' paste I use Arctic silver 5.

Right now on the High performance profile the fan is on low while docked: 38c, 40 running processes. Re-applying the thermal paste won't do that much for your idle temps but will/should reduce the max temperature

 

Thank you very much your input!
I really appreciate it!

The newmodeus caddy is unfortunately too expensive for me including also the high shipping to Europe and VAT.
Did find one from newmodeus on eBay for the 8440p though. Not sure if it would work for the 8460p.

Alternatives would be:
A fenvi caddy: looks exactly like yours
The alternative would be from Nimitz.
Both are very cheap and come only with 4 screws for the HDD. i found positive feedback for both of them so I probably can't go wrong with either of them.

I don't think I'd buy a SSD. Probably only a normal 2.5 HDD since I want to run multiple VMs.

I'm also considerung whether to buy an external USB enclosure for the DVD drive or the buy a whole new slim drive.

Regards

 

Hey no problem, here to help

I actually DID see those two caddy's you pointed out! Haha, the Fenvi one is indeed exactly like my caddy. The sticker is the same, so I'm assuming they are the same. The *only* reason I did not buy it from ebay is because I trust amazon a lot, lot more and shipping is mad fast and reliable. That said, if you shop from ebay a lot, go for it.

My only concern for you is whether or not those caddies will be able to screw into the optical bay like the optical drive does. Mine cannot be, so like I said, I am constantly afraid that it might just fall out with a solid thud to the notebook. Hasn't happened yet (my laptop has even fallen off a coffee table lol) so maybe that's a pointless worry.

You could get an enclosure, and maybe save some $. Do some research into prices, I know samsung makes good external drives $30 Samsung External DVD Burner; and figure out if you want an enclosure instead. I just pop out my caddy and insert my drive whenever I need to use DVDs or burn any, which is rather rare indeed. Saved me some money there. What do you have in mind?

 

Then Arctic Silver 5 it is, I will give it a shot and let you know how it works out for me, I've heard good things and I'm optimistic. Not concerned about idle temperatures, I just don't want my laptop melting into a puddle when its on load

 

@nkdv:

Thanks again! ;-)

i would also prefer Amazon but I didn't find anything cheap with free shipping to my country.

I think in the end I take this noname caddy.
I found more positive feedback on this one and it's even cheaper incl. shipping ;-)

I didn't think it's possible with any of them since they always only mention 4x screws for the HDD and promote it with being hot swappable.

My work colleague also once threw down my laptop from the table. It fell exactly on lower right corner and the casing got badly bended. But everything is still working. Only had bend it back again otherwise the headphone plug wouldn't fit ;-)

I don't think this would work for me since I'll probably have relevant files on the other drive like user files, etc.

As for the SATA DVD enclosure I think I'll go for this one on Amazon from Firstcom.
It's for 12.7mm drives so I hope it will fit. Otherwise Amazon hopefully can replace it.

 

All the caddies I've seen can have the little rear bracket removed from the optical drive and placed on the caddy so the caddy can then be fixed onto the chassis in the same way as the optical drive. Some systems like a 2510P/2530P also have a front bracket as well.

 

Hey, good to know, I'll take a look at my drive again, a proper look haha. rep+

Oh I didn't mean that I hot-swapped them, I just turn the laptop off and do that. I barely need the optical drive so its nbd for me haha. Plus, booting off the SSD has my laptop turning off and on in less than a minute so

Don't know German haha, but it looks like a decent price for the enclosure. Personally I was just thinking of getting a sata-to-esata cable, but haven't gotten around to doing that yet... Let me know how everything works out for you

Oh and yeah, this thing can take quite a beating that coffee table incident was one of a few occasions people have given the poor lappy a pounding Its still going strong cos its built like a rock. Reminds me, when I get my M17x I better keep it away to protect it from the same treatment haha

 

Hi

I got new SSD (Crucial m4 128GB), installed clean win7pro 64bit with all updates and run CrystalDiskMark:



So SATA3 for sure, but how can it be?

 

Hi,

I recently got this laptop from the company I work for an have somehow managed to lose the rubber cap for the pointstick

I have looked on the net for somewhere to buy a replacement cap and the only thing I can seem to find are packs of 20 for around £80

Does anyone know of somewhere that I can buy one?

Thanks.

 

I've got a question for all those with second hard drive caddies or thinking about getting one. I also have a 2560p. Both laptops have cheap caddies on ebay. I typically get the $10-$12 variety. If you take apart the CD rom you can remove the front face place and attach that to the caddy. I also remove the mounting bracket.

The DVD drive I mounted in a USB external case ($15)


Recently I had a problem with my 2560p which ended up being the SATA diagnostics pin was grounded and shouldn't be. The symptoms were that it didn't shut down all the way. It worked fine the entire time you use it. When you shutdown, the process was normal until the screen shut off. At that point the power light stayed on. Eventually it'd bluescreen.

The problem was solved by removing the diagnostics pin.

I learned about it here.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...litebook-8560p-wont-shutdown.html#post8423503

Does anyone know if the 8460p has the same problem?

 

SATA III on bios f.22? now that's interesting! I flashed back to bios f.20 just for SATA III because f.22 disabled it for me, but hey as long as you get your speeds no complaints. My mom told me to never question good luck

I did read a lot of those posts before I bought my caddy, about the drive not shutting down, but I didn't know why so thanks for the info that said, my caddy is identical to the ones selling on ebay and it works perfectly fine... I don't have the problem, but someone else might?

 

Haven't seen anyone posting here for a while come on people! I have a question for you - has anyone been able to underclock their elitebooks? Mine runs hot a lot and I want to underclock it but it seems traditional software don't recognize the new core iX processors

 

@ Judge22

Go look at this :

Re: HP Software Framework Error Event 4 and 5 - Page 7 - HP Support Forum

It shows how to calibrate battery and discusses the HPPA problems in Event Viewer .

Dave.

 

@ Pepsoli

@ Judge22

Go look at this :

Re: HP Software Framework Error Event 4 and 5 - Page 7 - HP Support Forum

It shows how to calibrate battery and discusses the HPPA problems in Event Viewer .

Dave.

 

I dont think you an underclock because speed step already lower the clock speed to 800mhz. Maybe you can try lower voltage with Throttle stop or reapply the thermal paste to lower the temperature.

 

So my [URL="http://www.ebay.at/itm/2nd-hard-drive-Caddy-For-HP-EliteBook-8460p-8560p-8760p-/200651766306]noname HDD caddy[/URL] just arrived today.

The shipping was really fast for an order from HK. It took only 9 days.
Unfortunately I have no HDD to it yet. Still didn't decide whether to buy a SSD or traditional one.

The caddy comes with a flat DVD-drive bezel. It's very easily removable.
Additionaly 3x+1x screws for the HDD and 4x screws for the bracket on the back are provided. The bracket needs to be taken from the DVD-drive.
Have yet to figure out how to safely remove the bezel from the DVD-drive.

What I'm wondering is that the caddy has no screw holes for the HDD at the bottom of the Caddy.
As a matter of fact this can be seen also on the pic on eBay.

 

Okay, I've removed the HDD from my old laptop inserted it into the caddy.
Put the HP to sleep mode. Removed the DVD-drive. Insterted the HDD caddy. Turned the HP back on and voila the drive is successfully recognized as a SATA I drive ;-)

The caddy fits perfectly without the shipped bezel because the notebook's casing is in the way on one side.
But I could successfully remove the bezel from the DVD-drive an attach it to the caddy without problems.

Still I'm wondering why there are 4 additional screws that won't fit anywhere to attach the HDD properly.
None of the screws wouldn't even fit directly into the holes on the HDD since they are too thin.
There are holes on the side of the caddy but the screws are too short too reach the inside an press against the metallic clamps which should hold the HDD. I also don't understand why the camps aren't at same position where the screw holes on the HDD are.
Maybe the old SATA I drives had different screw hole positions and sizes ;-)

Anyway the HDD isn't too loose in the caddy. Still I'm gonna write the the seller and ask him about the holes and screws.

Edit:
Correction. The bigger screws fit into the holes on the HDD. So I'll probably need to drill holes to the bottom of the caddy.

Edit2:
Silly me ;-)
Your first need to put the screws directly into the HDD and just then you put the HDD into the caddy. This way the drive stays absolutely secure in the caddy.

 

As stated by wyemarn, ThrottleStop might be the answer. It has an option to lock the multiplier to a chosen value, which will forces the CPU to run at a lower frequency/voltage. There's also a "power saver" feature, but I'm not sure of what it does exactly.

 

I believe the power saver feature allows the cpu to enter C-states. You can read the thrttlestop readme file inclcuded in the download and confirm it. BTW How are your temps underclocking the processor? Maybe I{ll try it myself.

 

ThrottleStop looks interesting. Didn't know about it before.
It reminds me of the good old RMClock what I've been successfully using for years.
Gonna have to try it out some day.

 

I just bought another 8460p, this one with integrated graphics.
I was wondering which bios version de you recomend? I am using f.08 atm.
Thanks in advance.

 

In the 2560P thread, we found only the F.01 bios can run faster 1600/1866/2133Mhz RAM at it's full speed. I'm assuming the F.01 8460P bios will do this as well. In a dual-channel configuration the 1866-2133Mhz RAM can give 5.5% to ~10% more iGPU performance.

If that's important to you then pls ensure you don't upgrade to F.20 or newer. F.20 or newer bios prevent rollback to versions older than F.20.

REF: Performance: running 1600, 1866 or 2133Mhz DDR3 RAM in a 2560p

 

Has someone managed to get turbo boost working already on F20+ bios? I just bought a 8460p and it came with F22 and Turbo is not working on my 2670QM. Interesting to see though that at first the SSD was recognized as 6gb/s (although it's an INTEL 320 SSD) but had a crash and afterwards it was put at 3GB/s. Doesn't matter for this drive though, but still quite strange.

 

Hi there. I have 8460p and it wont turn on.
battery light blinks 8 or sometimes 10 times.

i do not think it is charging the battery because there is no constant light to indicate that.

charger works fine because it is universal and works on another laptop.

Thank you so much, please help me so I can get some free beers for fixing this for my friend. lol.

 

Turbo mode is working for me with a i7-2620M on Bios F.25:

 

Hello all!

Just wanted to share a drive caddy that I purchased off of eBay for $24 and received today:

eBay drive caddy

It comes with the correct rear bracket, and the bezel matches the contour of the 8460p. The color of black is just a shade lighter than the laptop case, and the flash of the camera makes it look worse than it is in person. Since it is beveled inward from the top, it is very hard to discern any color difference. There is even a fake eject button and manual eject hole. It fits exactly flush with the laptop perfectly. Hopefully my SSD will arrive tomorrow and I will let you know how well it operates. It is the Nimitz caddy that others have bought for their HPs.

It came with a small screwdriver and two screws that screw into the sides of the front end of the drive. With this, I don't have to alter my existing DVD drive at all.

 

Do the usual thing: Remove the battery, disconnect from the power cable, leave there for a couple of minutes then hold the power button for ages. replace the battery and turn on.

Other than that someone else might come along in a moment to offer a better suggestion. Fingers crossed

 

F.25 is not available for me. I contacted tech support and they say that Turbo Boost is not available for business models, even though it is mentioned in the specifications on the website. With Throttlestop Disable Turbo Boost is also greyed out, indicating it is disabled in the BIOS. I can however manually set the multiplier to 23 or higher, resulting in a sort of Turbo Boost, but of course this is highly not recommendable, as this will not take into account the thermal headroom in which turbo boost normally functions. Even though I mention that for some people turbo boost is working, they still say it is not available :S. Hoorah for support.

Edit1:
By going back from F.22 to F.20 however I do get SATA600 back, which is kind of a relieve . I can also see it in the benchmark results. So now I hope it won't switch back again as I had previously. I think the problem was in the PCI-e link power management, which I disabled now. Will keep you updated .

Edit2:
With BIOS F.20 and Throttlestop I kind of managed to get Turbo Boost working. Turbo boost by itself is still disabled, but by setting the multiplier to 30x and Power Saving on, Turbo is working great actually according to the Turbo monitor and CPU-z. It will run at max Turbo when only one or two threads are running, while going down when 3 or more threads are running (tested with Prime95). So just need to let Throttlestop (got 5.00 beta version) to startup at windows startup by putting it in the Startup folder and there it goes!
It does follow the Turbo Boost 'rules': with 4 threads, the turbo is a maximum of 2.8 GHz. It starts of at 2.8 and goes down to 2.5/2.4 Ghz because of the temperature. Temp does not go above 82C.

Edit3:
Totally happy with this setup. F20 BIOS with SATA600 and 'Turbo Boost'! Running some benchmarks with 1 to 8 threads for some time each. For example with two threaded Prime95 it keeps switching between 2.8 and 2.9 according to Intel Turbo Boost monitor, depending on the core temperature. So it functions exactly as it should without running the system too hot!

 

I don't have the F.25 Bios setup anymore but if you want I could provide you the Bios files (68SCF.BIN, 68SCF.SIG) which are on my HP_TOOLS partition.

 

Thank you for your offer, but don't bother . There must be a good reason why they pulled the updated and besides I got everything as I want it with bios F.20, I'm not willing to change this winning team at the moment .

 

Hp softpaq download manager jsut listed the F.26 bios, its a shame the download is not ready (0kb) and the changes dont include anything turboboost related.

 

no that method didnt work, battery still blinks 8 or 10 times and wont charge.
laptop still wont turn on.