*HP HDX DRAGON Owners Lounge, Part 1*

Son of a biscuit. Bah. Of course haha. Ok. Thanks for explaining the difference. Do you or anyone know if Firewire recording is supported in Windows 7 Media Center?

 

awww....tell us comebacks. congrats on the GREAT grandkids, papa smurf

 

Hello all,

I'm planning to do a clean Windows 7 64 install on my precious (now it's still running on Vista 32). I checked the HP site for drivers and noticed that there appears to be a lack of Windows 7 drivers. I would like to know where you guys got your drivers. Can I just use the Vista 64 drivers HP offers on it's site? Or will most drivers be automatically installed with Windows 7? Could someone please point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance.

 

Those darn spots were white and looked like zits on a teenager but there is no sign of them now at all.
By the way dv7t check out my avatar. My nickname for about 5 years was Papa Smurf. That was about 25 years ago. lol

 

Got my BD-R discs today and copied Galapagos successfully at 2x, took about 70 mins to burn 25GB. Very happy.
Still wish I could find some updated HP firmware though.

CJ

 

nice. did you use anydvd? how much were the discs? costly i bet. looks like about 12.50 each. not sure how much to buy the movie outright, but until cost comes down, i'm not into the writing market for bluray

 

BD-Rs are cheap. BD-REs (re-writable) are more expensive, especially the DL 50GB ones.

 

cheap as in $12.50 per disc is cheap?

 

Sweet! 70 minutes is long. The UJ 220 at its speed is stated to burn it in 30-35 minutes. So the updated firmware if you can find it, and it works to that same speed would make it quicker. Thanks for letting us know that and how it worked. If I may ask, how much did you pay for blank discs and how many in each pack?

 

Only US $2.5 - $3.5 per single BD-R 25GB (Traxdata, Memorex and Verbatim) in spindles of 5 to 15 pieces. Considering it holds 5 times the capacity of a SL DVD, $2.5 - $3.5 per disk is appropriate for a known brand such as Traxdata or Memorex (Panasonic, Sony and TDK can be more expensive). No-brand BD-Rs are even cheaper in spindles of 20+
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Traxdata-Bl...?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1260231052&sr=8-14

 

You can find 4x 25GB BD-R's for $2.60-$3.50 each in packs of 10-25. Meritline has some good prices.

Not a bad price if you are looking to archive your Blu-ray collection.

But if you factor in your cable subscription and, say, netflix, might not be such a bargin after all.

I have an extensive DVD collection that I don't watch anymore since Blu-ray and HDTV. The video quality of DVD is akin to how I viewed the video quality of VHS when DVD came out. Unbearable. Especially on an HDTV.

Not wanting to update my collection yet again to a new format, I'm currently sticking to DVR and HD movie channels, Blockbuster and Netflix for blu-ray.

How many times can one watch a movie, really? So I think I'm covered for my 2 or 3 times each.

 

And that's BD-RE prices per pack of five:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Infiniti-Classic-Bd-re-Blu-ray-Jewel/dp/B001OA9FSS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1260231566&sr=8-4
Slightly more expensive (about US $4.0 per disk) because you can erase them and re-write multiple times.

 

UJ-210 (FW 1.06)/220 burn BD-R at 2x max. if the media is of good quality/supports this. No firmware upgrade can increase this any significantly more. For DVDs, they burn at 8x without issues.

 

Is there more than one wsxga screen? I want to replace mine, I'm starting to see blotches at certain angles (head on they're not visible though). The ones on eBay say OEM part number may vary, and I want another LG screen.

 

seems about the same as 8x speed when i burn a dvd. multiply a dvd time x 5 because it's that much more space, and 70 minutes is right. takes about 12 minutes for a regular dvd for me.

 

i think i know what you mean. hdtv/movies rock, but i still watch plenty of regular dvd's a lot.

what do you mean "for your 2 or 3 times each"???

 

5 x Infinity 25GB 4x discs for £12.99 ($21) with slim jewel cases. (We pay more for everything here in the UK).

http://www.mymemory.co.uk/Blank-Blu...i-25GB-4x-BD-R-Writable-Blu-ray-Disc-(5-PACK)

RiDisc, Datawrite and KDT can be had for cheaper.

CJ

 

The 8x speed for BD burning is not possible on any Panasonic UJ-2xx drive: http://www.netcomdirect.com/pamaujblopdr.html

 

See it in the movies, once, on the rare occasion that I go*. Then rent it on Blu-ray. Then see it on Cable in HD.

*I hate to queue. And if you want your pick of seats, you have to queue more than an hour before showtime. If you wait a few weeks to see a movie when there is no need to queue, you risk having to contend with poor video and audio quality.

 

i said seems about the same time at 8x burning a DVD not BD. i am saying 70 minutes to burn about 25 gigs on a bd, seems an equivalent/proportionate time to burning a dvd about 4.5 gigs, in 12 minutes.

i thought i had said that clearly before.

anyway....ya 8x bd burning is probably far out from this time, whatever that has to do with quoting me, if at all, i don't know.

 

BD-R burning of 25GB data (because not all burning projects are for a full 25GB) at full sustained 2x takes about 45 minutes to complete. It can take longer on a 2x drive if speed fluctuates/reverts to 1x during the burning, such as what happens when one is using cheaper uncertified disks.

Wikipedia: For DVD, base speed, or "1x speed", is 1.385 MB/s, equal to 1.32 MiB/s, approximately 9 times faster than a CD's base speed. For Blu-ray, drive base speed is 6.74 MB/s, equal to 6.43 MiB/s at 1x.

 

and some of these bd discs are 5x. can you imagine a 5x burner? burning a whole bd in let's say 18 minutes. crazy i say.

 

Hey Guys. I found something "weird" with my Dragon that i thought i should share with you.

OK, this is my busy season (I build/repair/rebuild PCs and laptops. Laptop rebuilds are a new thing I added in the last 6 months, but I digress.), and I have been getting a lot of orders for laptops (10 so far since Dec. 1). I have noticed that the number of processes and memory usage for Windows 7 Home Premium are significantly less than those for Windows 7 Ultimate immediately after a clean install (no drivers or extra software.) So, I decided to try and install Windows 7 Home Premium on the Dragon. Everything went fine.... until i tried to install the sound driver. No matter what i did or how I did it, I could not get treble/bass controls. I thought maybe i was missing a step or something. I used sp40438 for the sound drivers, same as always. I even unpacked them and set the setup.exe compatability to Windows Vista SP1. But it still didn't give me those controls. After 3 tries, no treble/bass with Home Premium.

So I remembered that 2.0 used Windows 7 Professional. I decided to try that and see if there was a difference. Sure enough, as soon as I installed the sound drivers and restarted, I had treble/bass controls.
Has anyone run across this before??

 

sounds strange.

 

Very Strange. On the plus side, after installing Professional the processes are down around where i wanted them. So I guess it worked out after all.

 

Thanks cutthroat_jake.

 

Weird. I noticed limitations between the different Vistas, but can't say much in comparison with Windows 7. I did find a difference in installing drivers from the desktop for some items worked where as installing from elsewhere caused problems sometimes. Can't remember what it was that did that or which Windows 7 version it occurred though.

 

I have noticed that too. But I usually have the drivers on a second HDD or a thumb drive. But I have never seen a version difference that effected hardware like this. And i watched it the last 2 times it tried to install it. I did notice that with Home Premium, it removed it completely then it came back as high definition device on audio bus, then it changed to Sigmatel Audio, then finally it changed to IDT Audio. So maybe it took something out like a knowledge base file or something.

 

Same here, but Ive gotten into the habit of putting it on my desktop from the hard drive or external hard drive. I know some stuff that isn't made for Vista only installs correctly if you install it from the desktop and either to the C drive or to its own folder on the C drive. One thing I need to do this with is Yahoo Site Builder that I use for web design. Hmm that is really weird man. One thing that has frustrated me is I'm finding if I push the HDX too much things in the knowledge base can get corrupted or go missing. I dunno maybe. Maybe someone else has a better suggestion.

 

To my knowledge, HP has no intent to make Windows 7 drivers for our laptop. However, the Vista drivers seem to work perfectly. However, I've NEVER been able to get QuickPlay to work right. If I try using it, sometimes it freezes my computer, if I try to use the "tap/slider" volume control, the little volume screen pops up on screen and then will NOT go away, etc. If I have QuickPlay running, I can't close it out. It ignores my efforts to get it to go away. I've reinstalled the QuickPlay drivers, done all the updates, etc., and it still is a headache. And the treble and bass controls don't work with Windows 7, unless I've overlooked a post where that problem was resolved. So, other than the QuickPlay thing, everything else on the laptop works smoothly with Windows 7.

 

Ok, after just recently reloading all of the software back onto my Dragon, I can say that i got everything work right again. So I have a few questions for you that will help me to understand what's going on...

1. What is the sp number for Quickplay that you are using? Mine is SP38361.

2. Did you install QuickLaunch? I ask that because thst is the actual drivers for the QuickTouch buttons. You need that installed before you install QuickPlay or QuickTouch.

3. What is the sp number for the version of QuickTouch you are using? The one I'm using is SP37799.

4. What audio Driver are you using for the Dragon. I am using the original one on HP's site for Vista x64. It's SP40438.

I am having none of the problems you mentioned. QuickPlay works fine for my machine (no hangups or freezing). My Bass/Treble controls work fine too (I even went as far as to open up the sound properties and go to the on-screen sliders for the bass and treble and move then with the controls to see if they responded. Both checked out.) and the OSD for the volume. bass and treble comes up and goes away as it should. So I think you may have incorrect versions of your software that runs those things. I hope this helps.

Also, What version of Windows 7 are you using and what version of the Dragon do you have??

 

Yeah, but why would it only act weird when installing under Home Premium. I installed from the same location each time. I installed the drivers in the same order each time (Intel chipset, Imtel Matrix, IDT Audio, etc.). I will throw a backup drive in and work on this. Because now I REALLY wanna know what's going on.

What do you mean when you push it too much??

 

Hey Snaak,
it's basically what goldpianogarden said. You can use the Vista x64 drivers in Windows 7 x64 and they will work perfectly. Also, there is a short guide on page 680 (post #6791) that tells you which drivers to use and what order to install them in to have everything working under Windows 7 x64. Good luck.

 

Having 8GBs of ram would help with most of that, especially things that lag that are heavy on the machine like the volume setting box thing. 8GBs of ram rocks for manyt things! With 4GBs of ram it lags like crazy and takes forever to go away. With 8GBs of ram it's fine. It would likely also help with the laggy QuickPlay as well. Lancorp I think may still have 2x4GB GSkill memory modules left or you can find some on Ebay. I'd tell you about mine but I sold the last one last week. If you want a quick fix for the QuickTouch volume box without 8GBs of ram here's a copy and paste from 2.0:

It's choppy because of the onscreen display. Best thing to do is to get rid of it. Here's how:

Type msconfig in the start menu search box.
Click the startup tab
Uncheck HP onscreen display.
Hit ok
click boot tab
check make all boot setting permament
click ok
reboot.

No you won't have any problems with the volume slider.





If you want a cool but small onscreen display that doesn't have any problems, download one of Microsoft's multimedia keyboard drivers (like natural multimedia keyboard or the wireless 7000 )from the following site:

http://www.microsoft.com/hardware/do...px?category=MK

Enjoy.


Unless of course it's copyrighted then in that case I'll say I posted it with a gun to my head I find the lag starts up with 4GBs of ram after you install like two things in the task tray, like an AV and Firewall or Spyware software.


Someone resolved the bass and treble but I can't remember who or where it is but I did save these two things, maybe it'll be helpful:


Post#8393

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=169232&page=840

Windows 7 installation order (all tested on W7 HP x86 and working fine):
1. NVIDIA GeForce - Win7 64-bit - 186.81
2. Intel Chipset Software Installation Utility - Win2000, WinXP, Vista, Win7 32-bit and 64-bit - v9.1.1.1019
3. Intel Matrix Storage Manager - WinXP, Vista, Win7 32-bit and 64-bit - v8.9.0.1023
4. Marvell 88E8055 LAN - Win2000, WinXP, Vista, Win7 32-bit and 64-bit Multi-Language Installer for Yukon Devices - v11.22.4.3
5. Intel PRO-Wireless 4965AGN Drivers Only - Win7 64-bit - 13.0.0.107
6. Synaptics TouchPad Driver - WinXP, Vista, Win7 64-bit - v14.0.3
7. AVerMedia A301, A312 TV Tuner Card Driver - Vista 32-bit and 64-bit - v1.7.0.89_1.0.0.61 (SP38987)
8. ITE 8305 CIR Remote Driver - Vista 32-bit and 64-bit - v5.0.4.2 A (SP37925)
9. Ricoh R5C833 ORI Card Reader (SP36423)
10. Silicon Image - Storage - Silicon Image SiI 3531 - (Windows update)
11. HP Quick Play 3.7
12. HP Quick Launch Buttons - 6.50.7.1 (SP45889 (EDIT: HERE IT IS)
For properly working bass\treble sensors right before uninstalling standard sound drivers (with or without IDT, but I strongly recommend 'with') you must turn off your ethernet card (wifi, wire or whatever you have). After you uninstalled everything as listed above you must downloadl IDT STAC9271 - Vista 32-bit and 64-bit - v6.10.5607.0 B (SP40438), unpack it and set every .exe file in WDM\Vista, HDQFE\SRVRTEM and HDQFE\SRVSP1 folders as compatible with vista OS (incl setup.exe)

On Sat, Nov 14, 2009 at 8:09 AM, Dominick S <[email protected]> wrote:

Eclypse3D

http://forum.notebookreview.com/showthread.php?t=169232&page=680

POST# 6791
Notebook Enthusiast

Join Date: May 2005
Location: Mansfield, MA
Posts: 48
Rep Power: 11 Eclypse3D is new here but already liked
Default Re: *OFFICIAL: HP HDX DRAGON Owners Lounge*
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike t View Post
What is your entire load sequence and what are your driver sources/sp's? With this info, I'll reload Win 7 and see if I can get everything to work.

The BIOS F40 killing HDX's is well documented in this lounge. If you are new and are thinking of updating to F40, you might want to do a search within the lounge.
Installed Win 7 64BIT
Shut off Wifi
Installed the following in order.
Chipset software - (SP36881)
MAtrix Storage - (SP38088)
Audio - (SP40438)
TV TUNER - (SP38987)
Fingerprint reader - (SP37920)
Digital persona - (SP40216) (if the correct driver above is used should ask to run setup for enrollment)
Bluetooth - (SP38167) (if you dont you dont get BT Stereo support)
IR control - (SP37925)
Graphics (Nvidia) - (SP38393) (note nvidia has updated drivers on their site)
Ricoh Card reader (windows update ones work as well) SP36423
Synaptics Touch pad (windows update ones work as well) SP37065
HP Quickplay (SP38361) (after you connect to the internet launch QP and download latest update from there)
Quick Launch update (SP38171)
Quick Touch SP37799 (installed but is quirky but works)
Cyberlink quick cam software (SP37849)

After all the reboots etc from the above I turned on the wifi (or connect via lan) to the internet
and ran windows update, make sure to manually sellect the updates and do not take the
Fingerprint drivers. I did not see any quick touch update so.

Only thing not working like I said is the tv button above the keyboard, but all the other
stuff including fingerprint reader, and enrollments are working. The tv tuner does however
launch via the remote which is funny, but I think there is a quick launch app that allows
you to map the buttons so it may be easy to fix.
__________________
HDX 20 (dragon) (model 9494nr) Intel X9000 2.8Ghz | 8GB Ram | 320 hitachi + 500GB Seagate hdd | Nvidia 8800GTS 512mb | 1680x1050 20.1" LGPhilips (Sold *sniff sniff* )

Current rig:
Asus G72GX RBBX05 | P8700 @2.88Ghz | 6GB DDR2 | 500GB Seagate HDD | Nvidia Geforce GTX 260m 1GB DDR3 | 17.3" LG 1600x900 LED LCD

Credit goes to them of course.

 

I dunno man, good question. I just posted a couple of install instructions left by others in the forum so maybe that will help...? As in have 100+ tabs opened in Firefox, a bunch of addons, watch tv via my Hauppauge PVR and or Comcast DVR on my HDX, and or burn a movie at the same time Yea I'm regretful I didn't get the 2.8GHZ processor for it as I thought I'd be. There's also SSDs so that's something else I can look into too at some point. First I need a server for my movies and a 2.8GHZ CPU.

 

Hello all,

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but in regard to 8GB RAM, is this the same type of G.Skill memory Dom mentioned a few posts ago? 8GB (2 x 4GB) 200-Pin DDR2 SO-DIMM DDR2 667 (PC2 5300): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231210&cm_re=G.Skill-_-20-231-210-_-Product.

Also, would this work as well? Crucial 8GB DDR2 SDRAM Memory Module - 8GB (2 x 4GB) - 667MHz DDR2-667/PC2-5300 - Non-ECC - DDR2 SDRAM - 200-pin SoDIMM: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-CT2KI...1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1260415162&sr=8-1 Hope this helps!

Happy Holidays,
Brent

 

Yes and yes!

 

Yea I believe they should work. I know the clock speed for the GSkills are 5-5-5-15, but I don't know what they are with the Crucial ones though.

 

I know, you won't believe it until you get it, but in your situation, a 2.8ghz won't make a dent. When you get one, you'll see. At first you'll think it's making a difference but the placebo effect will wear off quick.

You're best bet is an SSD since you do a lot of IO. HDD is your bottleneck.

A 60GB vertex SSD in my tablet which has a 2.1ghz Turion Ultra II runs noticeably faster for most tasks than my HDX with 2.5ghz when it's running off win7 OS on the 2nd 320Gb 7200rpm HDD.

Reason why is because Windows is constantly loading or accessing programs, libraries and DLL's. It's also moving things around, caching, indexing, optimizing, etc.

An SSD's super fast small writes and super small seek times dramatically improves upon these processes.

Also, here's a tip for improving firefox's perfromance since you use tab mix plus: turn off disk caching.

Type in about:config in the address bar. Set browser.cache.disk.enable to false.

 

Maybe you're right for some normal processes, and placebo, but you did mention it would show a difference at 100% processing, like in games, and I believe Lancorp said he noticed the difference in that it was noticeably spunkier than the other CPU. I've seen video on SSD's performance and you're right, they're crazy fast. I guess they're up to 512GBs now, which I see you can put in Eurocoms server notebook for over a $1000. I'm DEFINITELY trying the Firefox cache thing because this browser has been driving me insane with crashes that go from every 2-4 hours. It's like from 3.0 it just went down hill. It NEVER did this before. I'll see what that does, thanks! You know of any memory modules that would be even faster in clocking speed than then GSkills that WOULDN'T slow down because of some other incorrect spec? Mine work fine, but I'm always checking out ways to speed things up.

 

Indeed, Lancorp went from a T8100 (2.1ghz with 3mb L2 cache) to an X9000 (2.8ghz with 6MB L2 cache). Of course there would be a difference. T8100 and X9000 also have different speedsteps.

For example, at step 4 (a middle step), the T8100 would be at a lower clock speed than a X9000 at the same step. But T9300, T9600 and X9000 all have the exact same clocks at the same steps until you reach the last step (100% CPU util).

I never mentioned that an X9000 would make a diff in games since games are predominately GPU dependent. Where it would make a difference is CPU intensive apps that run at 100% CPU utilization. Like encoding and benchmarking. But to notice the difference from where you are now CPU-wise (T9300, 2.5Ghz), you'd have to get out a precision stopwatch.

But you likely won't believe it until you try. Which means you'll be all the more disappointed having built up in your mind the notion that it an X9000 is so much faster than a T9300.

You don't need one that big. You only need to run the OS and your most important apps off the SSD. SSD's strength is in it read speed and fast small writes. That's how it speeds up your system. Sure it writes large files many times faster than a harddrive. But the more you write to them and erase (very large files specifically), the shorter their life. No point in writing movies or other large files of that nature to the SSD. Besides, since movies/music are read off storage at a relative slow speed, there's nothing to be gained reading off an SSD. But when the OS needs to buffer or do other storage operations while a movie/music is playing, you'll be happy you have the OS on an SSD at those times. Think about why? Let's say you have both the OS and movie on a HDD. when the OS needs the HDD, it has to move the HDD's head to the points on the platter where the other data is located, get some of it, move the head back to where the movie is to fill more of the buffer, then move it back to where other parts of the data it is looking for, then back, etc., etc. all this at a relatively slow seek speed.

Slap the OS on an SSD, movie on storage, and none of that takes place. CPU grabs what it needs off the superfast SSD WHILE still playing the movie off the HDD. No head jumping about on the platter to go find and read off or write data for other non-movie playing activities that occur in the background.

So a good combo is 60GB or 120GB SSD (1st bay) + 500GB 7200RPM (second bay) +eSATA storage.

You honestly don't need more than a 60GB SSD since you're only loading the OS and most used apps on it. I'm only using up about 35gigs on my 120GB SSD. But my second bay HDD is using up +100GB with an OS, games and media on it. I like the head room though. So if you plan on filling up more than 40GB on the SSD, you're better off with the 120. Certainly won't need a 256 GB version though.

That's the other thing, to install games to the 2nd HDD, always choose custom install. Beforehand, create a directory on the 2nd HDD called Games (to keep things tidy) and install to that directory. Not that you can't install games on the SSD. All the SSD would do for games in reduce load times.

They never intended Firefox to be used in such a manner. (re, 100 tabs open.) LOL, who does that?

You might also want to turn off browser.cache.memory.enable.

There's 4-4-4-12 RAM out there. But it won't make a dent. Only improvement to be had is to overclock the FSB (front side bus). But it's not possible with the HDX due to the locked PLL and hidden circuit components for hard modding. And even if it were, you'd have to hope the RAM is able to take it without errors. As with all overclocking, YMMV, per RAM stick, per manufacturer.

 

Does anyone know what panel type is used in the HDX's, specifically the 1920x1200 ones? I'm talking TN, IPS, PVA....

 

It's CMO = Chi Mei.

 

He had at least two HDXs I thought, and one had a higher spec'd processor though I could be wrong.

I thought I read articles that said there were some that were more CPU intensive. I was thinking about getting an HDX with a 2.8GHZ CPU and WSXGA, likely to just sell for Ebay points, but that way I could check both the screen differences and CPUs. If I don't notice it, then I'll concede

Awesome stuff! Thanks! I find with all the software I install and use I'd likely need the larger 120GBs. I used to do that set up with the two hard drives, using one for installations, and the other for storage, but sometimes I'd forget to do custom install to select the driver and would mess it up. I was also doing dual boots on two different Hard drives so it made doing that difficult. Sounds good though thanks!

Who does that? Me obviously! Lol. I tried the browser cache thingy but it didn't do that much. I'm thinking if I could shut off unneeded services running in the background it might help? Does the RAID thingy need to be running? And if I turn off Bluetooth from startup can I bring it back up via the Start menu? I thought I tried unchecking it from the startup, but it still comes back to the task tray. Ah ok I'll just stick with the GSkills then. I wonder if anyone in the forum has tried memory with that speed. Thanks for explaining.

 

hi everyone,

I have recently updated my motherboard with a 8800M GTS (instead of a 2600xt). It works perfectly but i have noticed a high temperature of my 8800.

58°C in idle;
82->85°C in game.

Can you post me your temps to compare ?
Is this normal ?


Thanks

 

Idle 44-48 DegC

Hi temps 69-71 DegC with overclock.

 

My 8800 GTS runs:

44-47C Idle.

65-70C OC'd gaming.

Depends on ambient temps. It varies from time of day and different rooms.

 

Nope, it was an T8100. He bought an HDX 9494NR and updated it.

There are no CPU intensive graphic games. There are games that use more CPU than others. Such as those that have their own physics and particle engines or some RTS games. But if it has 3D, it's GPU intensive. That's why ALL 3D games play better with more powerful GPUs.

You'll love it when you get around to it. Personally, I wouldn't waste time with any other upgrade. Or rather, that's the first upgrade I'd make. An SSD makes that big of a difference. You really get your money's worth. A la, bang for your buck.

None of that's going to help since firefox is not well programmed. Memory hogging and memory leaking. It's a flaw they won't fix because I suppose they didn't conceive that people would be running more than say, 10 tabs. The grand majority of people never run into the issue since they use a few tabs and close the browser down when done. So it appears for that reason it's not on their to do list to fix.

IE8 is better for that sort of thing.

 

Very similar to 2.0's. Probably a silly question, but did you thoroughly clean your unit when you had it apart? And did you apply thermal compound to your GPU...also, too much or too little could give undesired results.

What drivers are you using? Shouldn't make THAT much of a difference, but it could help some. Your temps aren't in the emergency range by any means, but certainly caution range, and anything that could be done to lower them should probably be attempted. Good luck.

 

Thanks for your response,

My bios version : F35
My driver version from nvidia : the last in date.
And yes i have installed thermal compound.

Perhaps i have to clean my fans and heatsink?