*HP HDX DRAGON Owners Lounge, Part 1*

When I had an HP Laptop (DV9700t and others) I would watch TV via my Slingbox in bed all the time. I would LOVE though to be able to watch it in true HD though. I don't have an HD Player or HD TV so its very much a convergence investment for me.

 

Could you let me/us know the best place to get directions on how to do that for newbs please?

 

I would say 177.92 is the best x64 driver.

 

Sounds good. You're getting better 3dmark scores with it?

I haven't even tried to benchmark mine yet, it's still running the stock video driver that HP shipped.

So its 177.92 for video drivers and 5929 for audio drivers?

 

As 2.0 has said before, drawing 1680x1050 sized frames will stress the GPU less than 1920x1200.

It's best to run LCD panels at their native resolution. But I've seen people run Crysis at 1280x800 on 2560x1600 native LCDs just to get their framerates higher.

The 1920x1200 panel is mostly better for it's higher DPI, more for HD videos or graphics work than for gaming(due to the GPU bottleneck). The closer you sit to a screen the more you can appreciate its resolution. With a TV example, If you get a 26" HDTV and watch it from your couch 10 feet away, 1080p or 720p will practically look the same.

Running games in lower resolution than the panel's native resolution won't look horrible. And any 20.1" HDX is awesome, most unique and best aesthetically designed laptop I've seen anywhere, now even an endangered species.

If a compatible GPU upgrade is figured out sometime in the future, that would be nice too.

 

It's not that difficult to drop in a new processor, you'll need the service manual to disassemble the chassis, lift out the old CPU, clean off the HS/F and put some fresh arctic silver on the new one. Good idea to wait till the warranty is up so you don't void anything.

Besides replacing the motherboard, the screen is probably the hardest part to upgrade. I don't expect to see many 20.1" 1920x1200 laptop panels available as parts.

 

Sure, it's doable M.A. - but you're forgetting the first rule of computer marketing: Don't waste Design and Engineering Resources on new hardware for outdated machines when you should be using those resources designing new hardware for new machines. And new as our HDX's might be, they were out of date before they were ordered by us.

In order to make upgraded hardware for older machines, there has to be:

1. Demand for the hardware update.
2. Money in it for the company investing in the update, and
3. Enough of an update to make #1 and #2 happen.

That's just the nature of the business.

 

Here is a good place to start...

http://wiki.osx86project.org/wiki/index.php/Main_Page

I haven't tried this on the HDX, yet. I did have it up and running on my wife's desktop. That was about two years ago, though. I have to go through the instructions again, but when I did run OSx86, it had to be run off of the main hard drive with no other drives attached. I'd love to get OSx86 running in VMWare, if possible. Something I think I'll look into right now!


That link I just provided is the first that came up with a google search for "osx86".


**EDIT** -- and I just found my answer here: http://pcwizcomputer.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=36&Itemid=32

Looks like a lot has changed since I last played with OSx86!

 

18.4" < 20.1"

Not sold. 1.4 diagonal inches bigger than a 17"? not enough to make any real distinction.

If HP refreshed their 20.1" HDX, though, then I'd be very interested.

The only real improvement here is the GPU, which isn't even much of an improvement. A 9600 GT vs a 8800 GTS? G94 vs G92 is really nothing special. While being older, the 8800 even has some better attributes.

 

Don't be an idiot. There is no censorship on this site other than removal of spam and asterisk-ing of profane words in a post. You deleted your own posts for whatever silly reason, rumba. Just like you post under 3.0, arlene, etc., then delete them within minutes for some silly reason.

Grow up already and come correct.

In any event, all sound cards today are backward compatible with Intel's AC'97 codec. As they are with the old soundblaster protocol. The SigmaTel chip in the HDX also supports the latest HD audio codecs.

And as to the 5607 being buggy, depends on your system. Works flawlessly for some just as the 5929 works for a few but causes problems for others.

 

LOL, son, I know enough about computers to make educated and correct guesses about things without having to own them. Just look at my track record. Yep, see?

Done trolling yet?

 

So whats the consensus on audio drivers then?

The preinstalled 5607 seems to crash for me, often. Vista 64bit.

I've read that installing the 5929 is tricky, is there a correct method for installing 5929 to make sure nothing breaks? Like without subwoofer disabled or other weirdness?

 

Nope, it's the luck of the draw. Works for some and not others no matter what. Tried to narrow it down as to what machines it works on. There's variances in the electronics that HP uses from model to model.

Anyway, I didn't read if you tried reinstalling the default driver. You said that Vista reports that the driver stopped working, correct? Before you reinstall it, after you uninstall the driver, delete any remaining directories titled IDT in programs files(x86) and programs files directory. Then reboot. Then reinstall after windows detects and installs a driver of its own.

(BTW, the cleanest way to uninstall a driver is to go to control panel, select the driver, select uninstall and check the delete box.)

If that doesn't work for you, give the 5929 a go and see if that works out.

 

Is this basically a long argument about WUXGA vs WSXGA+?

What I'd like to know is if you guys get any backlight bleeding on your screens, primarily from the bottom bezel.

Considering the price of the 20.1" HDX, I was expecting a perfect screen... ie. pitch black on all sides when displaying a black background or a black letterboxed movie.

Mine has about 1-2 cm of noticeable backlight bleeding on the bottom of the screen. Normal? Defective?

 

Thanks, I'm going to try that out right now.

I guess different batches of HDX would have slightly different components as time went on the production line.

If I go to HPs official driver site I only get an older version of the IDT driver, 5511.

There is a link to a downloadable 5607 in the thread right?

 

I have about the same amount of bleed. I typically don't notice it. In fact, I really didn't until you started mentioning it here in the thread!

heh, thanks a lot!

Now, don't think about breathing...
Also, don't think about blinking your eyes...
YAAAWWWWWWNNNnnn!

 

Normal depending on brightness. @ 50% there shouldn't be any.

Download this program to use as a test: www.dataproductservices.com/dpt

Set it to black.

Press and hold Fn F8 until it reaches max. There are 10 brightness levels between the function keys F7 & F8.

Tap Fn F7 5 times and this would be 50% backlight level. There shouldn't be any backlight bleed at this level.

Try this also with all the colors to see if there;s a darkish band across the bottom of the screen - about 1 to 2 cm up and about less than a cm thick. This will indicate if your screen is faulty.

 

You should already have it in the swsetup folder under audio. If not there is a link to where I uploaded it on megaupload, x amount of pages back.

Found it. Here it is: http://forum.notebookreview.com/showpost.php?p=3882109&postcount=2171

 

Let's not all rush at the same time, but HP now has the new Centrino2-based HDX16 for sale at hp.com for $1299:

http://www.shopping.hp.com/webapp/s...tainment+powerhouse&series_name=HDX16t_series

Interesting that the upcharge from the base 1366x768 display to the Ultra-res 1920x1080 LCD is only $25! At that price, who'd opt for the low-end?

And, unlike the HDX18 review, the HDX16 comes with the 9600M GT graphics. Isn't that more powerful?

So, a 16" is about the class of current 15.4" laptops?

Update: it appears the $500 off $1399 coupon code works on this unit! (NB0915) Upgrade to a T9400 and 1080p screen for $999!

 

Thanks 2.0, downloading now. It's tough to navigate a thread this size. Searching doesn't always find the relevant posts.

I've just tried the DPT program you linked and noticed the bottom left and right corners seem 'pinched' while displaying `Hash 1 (ox)`, I took two close pictures of the two bottom corners.

When I set the solid color to black and set the Fn backlight to 50%, there is a bit of noticeable backlight bleed on the bottom edge, the top seems completely fine. It is also visible on other colors, like solid blue.

I know the bottom bezel contains the speakers on either side, could those be causing a problem? I've read that LCD panels can sometimes have bleeding problems if they're screwed too tightly to a bezel, could this be a simple fix of loosening the bezel?

If the screen is actually defective do I have any real recourse with HP now that the model is discontinued? This was bought new and factory sealed a few days ago, but from a reseller.

I've seen very adventurous backlight replacement projects, but I'm not sure if its simply a backlight problem or possibly a substrate problem. Do you know what physical problem in the LCD causes these types of symptoms?

 

@ lancorp,

Perhaps the review made a typo about the 8600GT in the 18 and meant 9600.

 

Hehe, I guess its a more common issue. Its really not terrible, at most its slightly annoying if you concentrate on looking at it.

P.S. I think I just suffocated with my eyes open.

Can you post a pic of your backlight bleed while playing a black letterboxed movie? I posted one with a weak camera in this post

 

Bezel at the bottom is affixed with snaps I believe. So that won't really help.

But it's quite common with LCDs. It's what happens when the reflective plate that enshrouds the CCFL is angled to the bottom of the panel such that the opaque substrate board is not diffusing the backlight. Sometimes relieving bezel pressure works. Sometimes increasing it does. There's also a white film underlay whose corners may not be resting flat against the substrate which blocks some of the backlight.

Quick test - take your finger nail and gently pry the bezel away from the corner of the LCD. Not likely that you'll notice an improvement. You'd really have to remove the screen bezel and loosen or tighten the bottom panel screws the hold the LCD in place against the back panel plate.

Generally, it's not worth attempting to fix because you have to get at the LCD panel and you risk damaging the fragile CCFL tube. And that's not a DIY job for the faint of heart.

As for recourse with HP, ask yourself if you can live with it first because it might be difficult to come up with a reason to have it "fixed." They could swap out the panel and you get one with dead or stuck pixels. And as per their policy, if there aren't enough of them, then you'd be stuck, pardon the pun, with the panel.

On your other question about the discontinuance of the Dragon; you won't have to worry about parts so much as any company is required to have parts available to service warranties. So figure there will be parts available for at least 3 years.

 

Do you speak from experience? Because others here state a complete disassembly of the HDX is required to reach the CPU on the underneath side of the motherboard. Total time about 4 hours. Not exactly "drop in a processor" like other notebooks!

It is interesting, though...I got some Dell Studio 15 notebooks for a client, and the ENTIRE BOTTOM of the notebook is one big door. Unscrews right off, allowing access to EVERYTHING! Now, that is easy!

 

I've taken apart a few Toshiba, HP and Compaq laptops down to the HS/F. It required a fairly complete disassembly to the furthest section of the service manuals. It was a bit time consuming but pretty doable, without special tools like torx or triwings either. The cpu was right side up on the top side of the motherboard on every laptop I've seen. I have no experience taking apart a 20" HDX, I just got mine the other day. But CPU upgrades in laptops are only limited by the socket type, as far as I've seen.

 

Just a heads up. If you have a BD-ROM drive and plan to watch Blue Ray movies on your HDX the Laptopvideo2Go drivers will not work. I used them before and ran into this issue. If you use the 175.97 drivers in this link: ftp://ftp.hp.com/pub/softpaq/sp39501-40000/sp39905.exe.
You will be able to use Blue Ray. These are the latest official HP drivers for the 8800.

I did get a little better gaming performance out of the Laptopvideo2go Drivers but not noticeable enough to give-up Blue Ray. The only way to see the difference was to use 3dMark of other similar software. The 175.97 drivers a very good all-around driver.

Of course this all depends on if you have a BD-ROM and plan on using it.

 

I see. This does sound a bit tricky to try as a DIY project.

Its a shame that it may be fixable by loosening or tightening screws without having to send it back to HP.

How does HP deal with returns for exchange of their CTO products bought factory sealed, but from third party resellers?

 

Yes, as is required in my business, I've taken apart a fair number of notebooks to replace CPU's or fix fans, etc...usually about a 15-30 minute affair. And, yes, the CPU's are generally on the top under the KB, or on the bottom, but have a quick access door.

With the HDX's CPU on the bottom and no quick access door to get to it, that makes it very time consuming and makes me think twice if I really want to completely disassemble my Dragon to upgrade (which, I do, with an X9000 sometime..), but the labor involved makes me wary.

 

Dunno. Was it an authorized reseller? Perhaps if it were you could execute an exchange. But with the item discontinued it may be that they would rather force a repair on you.

 

I hear ya. It would have to be a really good reason for me to do it a third time. I just took my TX2500 apart, again, to get at the HS and radiator fins to clean off the black paint/gunk. Took all of 20 mins to disassemble.

BTW, cleaning off the black paint and apply Arctic ceramique lowered top temps by avg 11 Deg C. Now I can consider gaming on the TX.

 

The first pic doesn't show the bleed. I believe this is just due to my camera and the fishtank in the background. I've got a large LCD television in the background on the upper right (to the right of the aquarium) that I had to turn off for the pictures as well.

 

Dang, Rumba is really jacking up the forum. The page numbers keep jumping. All his most recent post just disappeared and the page numbers jumped again. We were on 273 went to 274, then suddenly jumped back to 273. Now after this post we are back to 274. Crazy.

 

Thanks for the pics xanlexian. It looks like this mild lower backlight bleed is pretty common. It really isn't very bad, mine is pretty much exactly like yours. Your top backlight seems perfect, my top backlight is just fine as well.

Do you have the WUXGA or WSXGA+ screen? Maybe we can narrow down which panels have this quirk.

2.0, lancorp, do you see similar bleed from your lower bezel while playing black letterboxed video?

I wonder if there is a reasonable fix that can be done by the user without shipping back to HP and risking a return panel with stuck pixels or who knows what else.

 

I've got the higher resolution screen. the 1920x1200 screen.

 

I didn't notice any before but I'll check again a little later on.

 

I've got the same screen as you. It could be that all the 1920x1200 panels have this issue and none of the 1680x1050 panels have the issue. So then it probably isn't some panel mounting problem that could be fixable by loosening screws or prying bezels.

Does anyone with a 1680x1050 screen see any backlight bleeding on letterboxed video?

 

Well, unlike most forum trolls, at least he cleans up after himself. You have to give him props for that. eventually he'll get bored and stop. Perhaps showing up periodically with hit and run posts.

But you know, he deletes his post hoping someone will buy his doltish argument that someone other than him is deleting them. You know, like I'm doing it with my special alleged mod powers. Hopes to build mistrust.

 

I have the WUXGA panel and my backlight bleeding is pretty similar to xanlexian's. It's only really noticeable on letterboxed video, but it's VERY noticeable there.


Somebody asked about gaming performance with the WUXGA. So far, I've played Bioshock, GRID and Guild Wars with all video settings at max. Not a hiccup thus far. I'm curious about Crysis, but not curious enough to actually buy it.

 

I have the 1680x1050 and have the same issue. I do not notice it in games. But if the screen is all black at the bottom (Watching letter box or during load screens) there is the same thin line of white bleed through.

 

Thanks 2.0, it would be nice to at least narrow down the issue. If WSXGA+ screens also have some lower bezel backlight bleed then there may be hope for a user serviceable fix. It could just be wrong pressures or bad mounting of the panels in HDX's screen enclosure, a systemic problem with the physical case rather than a flaw in the actual panels.

 

Ah, so a 1680x1050 screen with the same issue. This gives some hope for an error in panel mounting across the board on all HDXs. If everyone is seeing the same, I wonder if it isn't too hard to correct.

Either way, it's not terrible to have a thin bleed on the lower bezel alone. As everyone has said it's only really noticeable when the screen goes totally black... which isn't often in normal desktop usage, but may be more often if you watch lots of letterboxed video, DVD/BD/HD Broadcast. (Considering this is marketed as the "Entertainment Series" and includes Slingbox software and a TV tuner with HD-DVD and BD drives...)

HP, howbout a fix for your recently discontinued king of all laptops?

 

Alright, here's the deal then.

Played collateral, Star Wars I, and King Kong. At 50% (using the Fn f7/8 keys) nothing noticeable unless you go up to the screen and look down the panel. You'll see a light band along the edge of the bezel. At 70% and up it becomes more noticeable. But at 100%, it's there but not to the same degree of bleed as the photo you posted. It's more like a symmetrical band straight across with no periodic "bright spots" along the edge. A sort of gradient from very dark grey at the bezel edge to black at the edge of the movie's frame. That's for both top and bottom of the screen. Especially seen with Star wars and King Kong which have a slightly wider band given it's 2.35:1 aspect ratio. Collateral says it has a 2.40:1 ratio but I think my DVD copy's might be 1.35:1.

Then again, I have my colors adjusted in the Nvidia control panel which likely accounts for the difference.

Might want to fiddle with those settings to help minimize the degree to which the bleed manifests.

EDIT: forgot to mention, I'm using Quickplay 3.7.

 

Quickplay 3.7 is good.

 

I think the HDX18 will have the 9600 also, according to other sites. Probably just a typo...I can't imagine their new "king of the hill" taking a step back in graphics card series...even though the 9600 is still inferior to the 8800 GTS.

 

Speaking of which...

Wonder if they'll offer the 9650M GT or 9700M GT. It would have made more sense to offer the HDXs with premium graphics over their Pavillion line.

 

Ok, appreciate you checking. If you run that DPT program do you see the bottom corners looking "pinched" at all with the Hash pattern? Like the pics here

I found this page that seems to indicate that pressure or masking can affect backlight bleeding. I'd prefer not to pry the bezel off my HDX to try this electrical tape fix though.

The service manual that I think you linked way back in page 20 of this massive thread doesn't seem to get into the screen case disassembly detail(like clip positions), do you know of a fuller service manual somewhere?

Quickplay 3.6 came with my HDX, I'll give 3.7 a shot.

You find Fn backlight at 50% bright enough for desktop, or do you lower it for movies to minimize the backlight bleed? What have you set your brightness/gamma/sharpness to in Nvidia CP?

 

It seems to me that either the folks making component decisions don't know what they're doing or they're reluctant to either create or market a gaming machine, either because of some perceived stigma or because they have this commitment to Voodoo as a gaming unit.

I'm not seeing anything to excite me out of Voodoo, however.

 

(Sound of heart stopping)...What?! You are wondering about something? I've never known you not to have the answers for everything present and future!

 

Or, they have to be careful that they don't design something too close, performance-wise, to something lower-end, like Dell did with their XPS M1710 vs. E1705 a few years back. Everyone was buying the lower-end for thousands less because the performance and features difference was marginal, and the sales of the XPS model suffered.

 

That's just my point. Shouldn't the new HDX's have better graphics cards than they do? They're not that much higher-specced than the dvt5 and 7, seems to me.