*HP HDX DRAGON Owners Lounge, Part 1*

DUDE!!!
Make sure you've got your GTS 3D settings setup correctly for the game!!!.

Most advanced GPU cards come with presets for popular VG's today, just as Routers come with Port Forwarding and QoS presets for them.
For Warhammer Presets on the GTS:

Open your NVIDIA CP (Rt. Click on the Desktop)

Click on 3D Settings -
Click on Adjust Image Settings with preview -
Select Use the Advanced 3D Image Settings -
Click on Manage 3D Settings or the Take me There link -
Click on the Program tab in the window on the right -

Scroll down the list until you find the Warhammer games listed - choose which one you're playing, and adjust the settings as you like - they're already pre-programmed, but you can adjust them by selecting the settings that have the (Application Controlled) next to them. If you come up with a Custom setting from those, you can save it by clicking on the ADD button, and it'll save it to the list.

The young know so little...

 

Powered torque wrench of some kind?

 

I only recommend that as a last resort. :twitcy:

 

I'd like to add to that in light of Hovercraftdriver saying that the game is CPU dependent...


One of the options in the Nvidia CP advanced settings is "threaded optimization." Setting it to "on" rather than "auto" may help things.

 

It represents almost 3 years of my life....
You're on the right track, but it has 2 specific uses, although in the future its design and track record of achievement will likely mean it'll be used for more than it's being used for now.

"Space Shuttle Orbital Oil Change" is NOT one of the uses....

 

Yo MAMA!!

Could not resist.

 

I played with so many drivers and installs I got dizzy. It finally worked as described by Lancorp but was not worth the effort. Lost considerable gain and some (minor) subwoofer freq responswe though it still worked. Control panel doesn't do much except for equalizer. After playing for a week I went back to the original driver in my system restore and retrived full subwoofer and gain response. What I'm really saying is that the original factory version will give the best sound, the control panel version the most "Widgets"

 

So you think it may be a CPU issue? I still think this CPU should be enough. If not is this the type of notebook that I can upgrade the CPU in or am I stuck with it?

 

Check your PM and my post telling you how to setup your GPU for your game!! Go back a few posts before 2.0's.

 

My MAMA would slap you back to the Stone Age, grab you by the short hairs, snap you back and slap you some more for even mentioning that remark....

 

Yeah I already checked that thanks. When I was looking at presets Warhammer wasn't one of them in the list.

 

So 2.0.

Do you think the PS3 would play into the HDX wirelessly?
If so, would it be playing from the 8800 gts, or from the PS3's gpu at full PS3 speed. My objective is not to network with anyone, but merely use the HDX display with the PS3.

But you already probably know that.

I'd be awfully curious to see the MXM card (assuming there is one) in the HDX18.

Thanks

 

My technologically advanced brother, he is talking about Warhammer: Online. Brand new game, so isn't on the list yet. Usually takes a few weeks to a month for them to update.

And aztdaniel, the HDX CPU is upgradable(sp). I don't know if you want to go that route yet, but it is an option and has been done by a few on this site. Taks a little patience, basic tool knowledge, and about 4 hours.

 

2.0.

Can you verify that the PCIe (expresscard) port in the Dragon is 1.0 rather than the 2.0?

Thanks

 

Yeah, I just think I am at a loss here. A game like that with hardware like this at 30 fps is just unacceptable to me. I bought this laptop for pretty much that reason, nice screen with solid hardware to play them. I am wondering if downgrading to XP would bring me any benefit. Any thoughts?

 

Does anybody know or have any suggestions for this. My HDX connects to the net to check something every 20 seconds exactly. I've tried disabling many different startup services (virus, HPupdater, all updaters that I could find.Anybody have a suggestion, there are so many that I can turn off, just wanted to know if anyone had discovered this one? Thanks, DAvid

 

Recently there was a post regarding a dearth of praise for the many helpful people who make this a great forum.

It's the combination of a truly generous desire to help along with the real expertise of a number of contributors that makes this a very fine forum.

Thanks

MobileArtist

 

Powered ratchet?

 

Now I'm confused. Which Warhammer are we talking about again?

 

Warhammer online MMO, bro. Brand new game, in fact so new that I thought it was still in Beta. I've never played any of the Warhammer franchise, but this looks pretty cool. There are plenty of previews and screeens at IGN and Gamespot, among others.

 

Check your Background Processes and see if you still have Flexnet running. If so, shut it down. Not only is it a PIA, it's a potential security threat.

 

Ah so, my technologically limited grasshopper, it doesn't make any difference - game designers usually maintain the same 3D characteristics throughout a series, unless there's a significant leap in graphics technology, like between a PS2 and PS3. The most recent addition to the series should be the closest match - any specific settings can be adjusted, as 2.0 mentioned for the optimum display.

Also, game sites and / or graphic card sites will sometimes have the specific presets for a given card either posted on their site, OR you can email their Support units with your specific card model and ask for the settings, as in the case of a just released title. I'm in the middle of latest SOCOM Beta, and wasn't sure if they've updated their Port data for my router. No problem - quick email to Sony support, and a quick reply with the data needed and an apology for not posting it with the Beta information.

What I find interesting is that he said he couldn't find ANY presets for Warhammer - are we talking about the same card or did I miss something? The only way that could be is if we're talking about a different card or his driver is different. I'll have to go back and double check, as it's entirely possible - Sensei say, "Opiate level IS a bit low today", and as 2.0 will affirm it can cause memory lapses, especially when zoning to Pink Floyd. ....

 

The idea is to get the high definition output of the PS3 (Via HDMI or component video out) into the HDX. There is only two ways it can be done. Via HDMI or Component Video IN on the HDX. Thing is, the HDX, or any notebook for that matter, doesn't have such inputs.

Therefore what's needed is some sort of product that uses either USB or the expresscard port that acts as an hi-def input. Video capture devices come to mind. But there aren't too many with component video IN. Read about someone making a device with HDMI in. But I can't seem to find it for sale.

Quick note: Component Video IN can do up to 1080i. Where as HDMI can do 1080P.

You and me both.

The Expresscard/54 port is PCI Express x1 (single lane) version 1.0.

What the HDX has internally is PCIe v1.1 going to the MXM slot with 16 lanes.

I know what you're thinking, but the Expresscard/54 port with 1 PCIe lane doesn't provide nearly enough bandwidth for a graphics card.

 

It's and awesome MMO. I am having a great time with it. I just wish the dang laptop with the solid hardware would run it better. The requirements are very low. Vista 2GB Ram, Pentium 4 2GHZ, Video Card with 125GB RAM. I don't understand why this thing only pumps out 30fps.

 

Ok, yeah, Age of Reckoning. That looks like a lot of fun.

Weird though that aztdaniel should be having problems with it. The requirements are so low. CPU can't be the issue. Certainly not GPU either.

Maybe network lag compensation? EDIT: <---- forget that, see latest post.

 

LOL. Yup, I'll affirm that.

 

Now that I think about it, it may be programmed to be capped at 30FPS.

Anyway, in case it's not, try this; go into Nvidia CP and disable Vsync. You can make a profile for the game so that only this game has the vsync disabled.

If that doesn't work, set Vsync to enabled then enable triple buffering.

 

Thanks for the earlier replies about my new HDX. I finally have time to spend with it.

Another question: how many gigs does the recovery disc/s take? I was about to start and remembered a post stating it took 3 discs. Are these cd's or dvd's? I'm guessing DVD's, but will have to run to the store if it is.

Thanks again.

 

3 DVD's. Its storage comprises of Vista plus all the included software.

 

disabling vertical sync gave me slightly better results. Maybe 5 frames. The later setup of enabling it and triple buffering made it worse.

 

So I just got my Dragon and I was wondering if it's ok to let Vista Home Premium x64 autoupdate everything?

Are there things specific to the Dragon that Vista Windows update might break?

Besides the video driver what are other things that are good to change on a default Dragon?

 

Depends - what's your configuration?

As a start, go to this link: http://tinyurl.com/4bwrat

Enter the HP Product # from the label on the bottom of your system (PRODUCT #, NOT MODEL) which should have an #ABA at the end of it, into the field. That'll take you to the Support page for your system configuration. Click on Software and Driver downloads, then your OS, then that'll take you to the Support and Drivers page. Most of the drivers you have are probably up to date, but at the least, if you have Blu-Ray, update Quickplay, and for the rest anything else that's not up to date as of your purchase date.

For Windows: Despite reports to the contrary on those other inferior notebooks, Vista runs pretty stable on the HDX, especially if you're like a lot of us running a 64bit system with Ultimate or Home Premium. So far 8gb is the max RAM you can add to the HDX in a 64bit system. As for updates, I always tell my clients never to update anything automatically except for A/V definitions, unless you think Bill Gates knows more about what your system needs than you do. If so, set it to AUTO and let it rip. If not, set it to manual, and you'll get the initial updates, with Defender updates afterward being the most common unless you have it turned off.

If you have a problem, ask here first - as one who spends a lot of time helping people on the HP Forums, and like a lot of us have dealt with what HP's Support has become, you'll be better off asking here for a solution than HP. Unless you like fingernails on a chalkboard....

 

I just got my HDX 9494nr yesterday and while I'm utterly in love with it, I'm having a problem and I'm unsure what to do.

Last night I left it on overnight to download an exceptionally large file (the 10gb installer for Warhammer Online, for those curious). When I woke up it had a black display, no mouse cursor, no nothing. Alt-tab and Ctrl-Alt-Del both did nothing. Utterly unresponsive, I shut it down.

So today I'm playing Bioshock for the first time. After playing for about two hours I go to save my game, and it hangs on the saving screen. The display works, but nothing's happening. I figure "okay, maybe it's some weird display glitch, I'll shut the lid and reopen it and see what happens." I do that and the display is black. Alt-tab works but the screen remains totally black, displaying nothing.

What is happening here? I've done nothing except run Windows Update. Is it a driver issue? Is it overheating? Is it something I've done wrong?

If you need more information please let me know. Thanks in advance for your time.

 

Thanks. I have a custom ordered one so the model number is just 9300. The software on the HP site seems older than what came preinstalled on mine.

Are you fully updated with Windows Update on your Vista x64 and none of those updates cause any problems with your Dragon?

I just want to know if its safe to let Vista update everything, or are there updates I should leave out?

 

2.0

I was hoping for PCIe 2.0, but I suspected otherwise.

I'd be very curious and thankful if you might think of a way to run PS3 or XBOX onto the HDX at full res.

Of course I still would like to see an MXM upgrade. It's interesting to see the various notebook users who've managed it.
http://www.mxm-upgrade.com/

Thanks

 

2.0, I have a couple of questions regarding what you wrote:

1) Would the above process work if the 2nd HDD were formatted as HFS+ with a GUID partition table (instead of MBR)?

2) Would it be possible to do a sucessful installation to the 2nd HDD without unscrewing anything?

As I posted a little while ago, I sucessfully installed OSx86 to a USB HDD. I purchased an 8 GB flash drive with the intent of installing it to that, so I'd have a portable solution, however, I'd really just love to have it on the 2nd HDD. Until I read your post from a few pages ago, I was unaware of how one could boot from the 2nd HDD.

Thanks.

 

For anyone looking to purchase a BRAND NEW, FACTORY FRESH Hewlett Packard Pavilion HDX9494NR 20.1" Desktop Replacement PC for $1599.00 plus FREE Shipping and INCLUDES FULL MANUFACTURERS USA WARRANTY! Look no further.

I've listed sites that have them in stock ready to ship below:

http://www.buydig.com/shop/product.aspx?sku=HPHDX9494NR

http://www.beachcamera.com/shop/product.aspx?sku=HPHDX9494NR


I hope this helps.

 

With regard to playing a PS3 on the HDX, what about using the Firewire input with a Video Capture card? Firewire runs at 400 mps.

Thanks

 

I tried everything that I found on this forum, even called HP cust support. The weird thing is that even with ALL quick launch drivers uninstalled, I still have control over volume , wi-fi, bass and treble (w/o graphics). I am playing with the vista install on and on... I think MS is installing a keyboard with remote controls first...or SP1 and/x64 is messing with the system. Any Ideas? I'd like to know what your device manager sees on your HDX... this is driving me mad

 

All I can say is this must be your first notebook.


Your problem is in your system's power setup - the default "Power Plan" is usually Balanced. In effect, whether your system is on battery or AC, the power plan will put the system into sleep or hibernate modes - effectively shutting it down while keeping everything in memory. The way to bring it out is simply by pushing the power button.

If you were playing for 2 hours on battery and it stopped or gave you a BSOD, or a system hang, that can happen on a low or critical battery level, and 2 hours is about right for game playing. The fact it shut down after you closed the lid is a good indicator also, because when the battery is critical or drained it'll shut down when closing the lid.

If you were plugged in also, check your AC plug in at the back of the machine, the power outlet, or the plugin into the brick - sometimes mine wriggles loose and I don't see it. Just yesterday I got a BSOD when my battery was critical because I didn't see that the AC plug had come out of the machine and it was running on battery juice. When plugged into AC, the battery/plug icon in the System Tray will tell you it's charging or charged, or when it reaches critical levels.

To check the Power Plan settings, go through the procedure below. I recommend making a custom one - I have one I named Home-AC because mines normally plugged in all the time, and I don't want it sleeping or hibernating unless I close the lid and tell it to.

There's 2 ways go open the Power Plan settings:

In your System Tray, you'll see an icon that has a plug and a battery = if you click on it, it will show the 3 installed plans you can choose from. If you click on the link that says "More Power Options", it'll open up the Power Options window, where you can change settings or create a custom one.

The other way to open it is to click on Pearl (Start Icon), Control Panel, then Power Options.

First, note which one is selected - then, you can either change those settings (Change Plan Settings link) or create a new one from the link on the left column that says Create a Power Plan. Click on the Change Plan Settings link first so you can see how the plans are setup to conserve battery juice when not plugged into AC, and the different settings you can choose for custom plan if you want to do one.

The left column under the battery icon indicates the settings on battery, and of course the other is for AC power/AC w/battery installed. The drop down menus let you set the timing of the events listed on the left for those settings. These are the most basic settings in the Power Plans.

If you click on the "Change Advance Power Settings" link, it'll open up the Advanced Settings window, where you can be much more specific about how the plans affect your system events. In the drop down menu (default is HP Recommended) you'll note the settings for the installed Plans, and if you create a custom one, that will appear on the list as well.

Go down and open up the various settings on the list for each additional individual component and process listed - HD, Fingerprint Scanner, Display, etc. These settings let you specifically setup how you want your system to respond on battery or AC.

To make a custom plan:
Go back to the Power Options window and click on "Create a Power Plan". In the field below the 3 installed plans listed, enter a name you want to call it in the field that says "My Custom Plan 1", or just go with that. Click on Next, make your adjustments, then click on Save. After that, you can go back to the Power Options window and click on the Change Plan Settings/Advanced Settings to get more specific with the plan setup.

It's worth it to check the Support Page for your system on the HP site as well, as some plan combinations have caused some problems, so the more you're aware the better you can decide how to set up a custom plan, or you'll know what to do if something doesn't come back from sleep or hibernate. Go to this link at HP:

http://tinyurl.com/54fxru

If you haven't been there, you'll have to register to access it, and as far as your system, make sure you register it ASAP as well. On that support page, enter the Product # from the label on the bottom of your system, that usually ends with a #ABA. ALWAYS use the HP Product number when searching for anything on the HP site concerning your system - it sends you to the specific configuration for your system. If you put in the model number you'll get a big list of systems of which yours might not even be there, and you'll be scratching your head and telling yourself that HP is the stupidest company on the face of the planet. Not quite, but close.

Once you enter your Product #, select the Solve a Problem link on the next window, go to the next window, then enter your OS. The list is all known problems with your system for the various components and processes HP has officially acknowledged. Go through them just to get an idea of the kind of things people have seen with it so you can be aware if something happens to yours.

If you back up and click on the Software and Drivers link, it'll take you to the Driver downloads area for your system. Word of caution - ALWAYS read an update's notes before you install it, and check the driver you already have - you don't want to install an older driver or an update that's not for your system. HP puts blanket updates sometimes on all the support pages for each system, e.g., Security. It's up to the user to determine whether or not it belongs for their particular system and configuration.

If you have any problems, start here first - in time you'll find yourself in tears if you call or email HP with a problem. Their usual answer is to do a complete system recovery if they can't find anything in the database. Anyone without an extended warranty gets a BDT if they call or email, not an actual tech or engineer like we have here. (BDT is my acronym for "Book & Database Tech", which is all they are). I personally have had no less than 6 different incorrect solutions sent to me from them, when I already knew what the problem and answer was - it just wasn't available on the HP site, even though they recommended it as part of the Support Bulletin for the specific problem. In one instance, they asked me to update software that wasn't even installed in my system, and from the "English" they use, it's clear that the language barrier isn't an asset at all.

Have fun - the HDX is an a$$ kicking machine, and we all love ours. At least the 20" crowd - we haven't yet decided whether or not to open relations with the "New HDX" crowd. Yet. If ever.

 

Without a supported BIOS upgrade, it's impossible to upgrade the HDX's MXM graphics. And very low likelihood that someone would be able to hack the BIOS. Besides who would want to use a hacked BIOS?

I've upgraded notebook graphics before. And generally speaking it's possible under the following conditions:

1. The notebook manufacturer updates the target model with a better graphics card while maintaining the same motherboard and issues a BIOS update to support it.

2. The BIOS is generic enough to allow an upgrade from the same GPU series or MXM Type from the same manufacturer without need of a BIOS update.

3. The BIOS on the graphics card can be flashed.

The HDX fails all three.

Plus heatsink may need modification, mounting holes may not line up, etc.

Also consider that when the HDX went from ATI to Nvidia, not only was a BIOS update issued, there was a new motherboard designed to support it. The original HDX 9000's with ATI cannot be upgraded to the Nvidia 8800M GTS. The motherboard (448145-001) will not support it. Yet, the ATI card is MXM. The new motherboard ( 464591-001) supports both the ATI and Nvidia cards that HP sold as an option.

The New HDX's use a totally different motherboard made by a totally different ODM. I believe the new HDX's are made by Quanta. The HDX 9000 is made by Inventec. Another hurdle in the "upgrade" path.

Lastly, like Clevo and DELL, HP's MXM's are proprietary.

So your only place to get another MXM card for the HDX is HP. Which means it's not going to happen. The HDX is a failed product in HP's mind. There will be no further support in terms of improvements. It has reached its end of life.

Had it been made by one of their main ODMs like Quanta or Compal, maybe - though very unlikely. But Inventec is a one-off for HP. The HDX AFAIK is the only product made by Inventec for HP since 2006.

PS3 doesn't have a firewire output, AFAIK.

But...

I think I found a way to get PS3's HD output into the HDX.

SLINGBOX.

Specifically, Slingbox HD PRO.

http://www.slingmedia.com/

Plug the PS3's component Video out to the SlingBOX's component Video In.
Connect the SlingBox's ethernet to the HDX's ethernet.
Play with included slingbox software or via the slingbox software that's a part of Quickplay.

The only issue I can think of is possible display lag since it's streaming the video. But that might be measured in milliseconds.

 

As I said in my previous post, you cannot go by the model number when looking for specific information on your system. You MUST USE THE PRODUCT # - If it's a 9300 like mine, the number might be KR835AV#ABA. Regardless, the Product # ends with a #ABA or similar letter series.The HP Product # is the only one you should ever use on the HP site, as it will give you specific information for you configuration.

Go to the link in my last post and plug in your Product # and it'll take you to the right area, although for a 9300 it'll probably be the support page that says HP Pavilion HDX9000T CTO Notebook PC. If you look at my signature, you'll see my installed configuration. HDX9000T is the Model Series designation - HDX9300 is the Model number; and HDX9301TX is the actual system model configuration.

Again, as far as Vista 64 updates, neither I (nor anyone else here that I know of) has had any problems with Vista updates. It depends on your Vista Edition, although 2.0 swears the core framework is the same for both Home Premium 64 and Ultimate, although Ultimate does have some extra features. I'm using Ultimate.

Despite earlier problems, which were primarily caused by users with older systems, minimal config newer systems installing an upgrade to or buying new systems with Vista, Vista is not the animal some claim it to be. I was once in that group as well, and I put off getting an HDX for almost a year because of it. Having used it, it's got a lot of great features and is extremely stable. The only problems I've encountered are when my battery level has reached critical/near shutdown percentage and I didn't notice. Any OS will do that if not supplied with the proper power requirements, so that's my fault, not Vista's.

Something else to check is the same support page for your system on other global HP sites, e.g., HP Hong Kong or UK English sites. HP doesn't update globally, so sometimes you'll find updates on other global sites not shown on the US site. And of course, if you stick around here long enough or look through any of 2.0 MANY posts, you'll find specific update information. Just click on one of his name links on any of his posts, then click on the "Find More Posts" in the drop down menu that appears, then search through them.

Another good update site is RadarSync.com. They have a free update module you can download, an it'll look for the latest updates for your system. However, as I've told others, just because you find a new update for a particular component on the 'net doesn't mean you should install it if it isn't on the HP site support page for your system. Many people don't realize that driver configurations for systems are customized for that system, so you need to be sure that any update you install is generic in nature or you might have problems. Firmware is a definite no-no - unless specifically noted as a generic update, OEM firmware updates should never be flashed on a 3rd party vendor system like HP's. You stand a very good chance of frying it completely or at the very least rendering it useless on your system.

 

1. If your OSx86 is bootable from a USB HDD from BIOS, then there would be no problem booting on a HD using GRUB and the method I described.

2. Maybe. The problem is HP set the BIOS to look at drive 1 bay for a bootloader. It won't look at drive 2.

For instance, if you install windows to drive 2, it detects the bootloader on drive 1. You know when windows says "looking for other windows installations" before installing? It'll write to the bootloader on drive1 that there's another version/copy of windows on drive 2 and give you a startup menu choice when you boot up.

That's why switching the HDD's overcomes that problem. It won't see the bootloader on Harddrive1 and therefore makes a new bootloader for harddrive 2.

A possible work around might be that one would need to boot from USB and run a script that temporarily deletes the bootloader on drive 1, saves a copy of it to USB flash drive, then puts it back when you're all done. Problem is, if anything goes wrong, you'd lose your bootloader and won't be able to boot to windows. That can be repaired by using the repair function that comes with every Vista retail/OEm disc. But for those who only have HP's recovery, they'd lose everything.

I have to look into it more though. There's probably another way.

EDIT:

Ok so I looked into the OSx86 project. Taking Kalyway installer as an example, if you format and partition the 2nd harddrive via the installer, using GUID or MBR, you should be good to go. It will write a bootloader onto the 2nd HDD without regard to the Vista bootloader on HDD1.

So in your case, you don't need to swap the HDD's out physically. And the syntax in the MENU.lst file in the guide I posted remains the same so long as you're using the entire 2nd HDD for OSx. If not, then just point to the partition number.

for example if you've got Osx on a 2nd partition on the 2nd drive, then the syntax for that second drive would be:


Title OSx86
root (hd2,1)
chainloader +1

 

Okay.... And the original problem w/explanation, IS???

 

2.0

You have a truly inventive mind. I wonder if anybody out there has the hardware to try the "HDXSlingboxPS3HD-2.0 Workaround"

I can't imagine millisecond lags mean much.

I had read that the HDX had a Firewire input in one of the reviews. Was the review incorrect? I thought about ethernet as well, but it was half of a concept, like a half-cooked egg.

Thanks for cooking the egg, and supplying the potatoes and toast.

MobileArtist

 

I hear you Cyber, I just find it unlikely that magnets from the speakers are having that great of an effect on the bottom of the LCD. The most likely effect of magnetic radiation would be corruption of the display (odd colors, pixilization)
Even if the backlight bleeding were due to the speaker magnets, I think that you would see large rings of bleed around the speaker mount, not a relatively even line along the bottom with slow fading up. More likely, IMO, the backlight is not fully sealed from the bottom of the display. An example of this and a fix described can be found here

 

Very interesting article, MonkeyK.

Do you think HP might fix this under warranty if enough people spoke up?

I'd rather eat sandpaper than take an HDX apart...given that I'm completely unqualified to do so.

Great forum

 

The original issue was: The Quick Launch Eject button does not work for me after a clean Vista X64 install, and I tried everything that I read here, pag 100 and everything else...I'm blaming right now the 64 bit OS...

 

I have a clean install of Vista X64 and eject works.

Look in control panel/programs and features....

Do you have the following installed?

1. HP quick Launch Buttons 6.40 B2
2. HP quicktouch 1.00 C3
3. HP quickplay 3.7

 

I greatly appreciate your input. However, that is not the source of the problem. I had my HDX plugged in the entire time, and given the way I set up the power plan it shouldn't have gone into sleep mode or any other power-saving mode at all. After your post I double-checked my settings and power connection and neither should have caused it to go to sleep.

It still hangs randomly, though it did manage to stay on overnight last night. However I could only use it for about 45 minutes this morning before it decided to hang on me and I had to turn it off via the power button. (If I tried to shut it down via the Pearl menu, it won't.)

I guess I should specify what I mean by "hang." Let's say I've got open Digsby (IM client), Google Chrome, and iTunes has a song playing - this is about typical for what I'm doing when the computer is on. When it hangs, I cannot write IMs. In Chrome, I can navigate between tabs but cannot load new web pages or click on links. iTunes, curiously enough, works just fine - song continues playing, I can play new songs, whatever. I can alt-tab between programs in the taskbar, or click on them, but trying to close them does nothing. Ctrl-Alt-Del takes me to that screen just fine, but it won't start the Task Manager if I want it to. The mouse cursor will turn into that blue "loading" circle but nothing is actually loading, and nothing will ever load.

For the life of me, I can't figure this problem out.

My first thought was "must be a virus or other malware" but a virus scan and a spyware/malware scan revealed absolutely nothing.

Even if I don't find a solution in this thread for this problem, I'd at least like to know if this is indicative of some sort of hardware problem, so that I might send it back and get a working one. If it's just a software problem or something in that vein, I can take it to my local tech guy and have him figure it out.

Thanks again.