*HP HDX18 Owners Lounge*

I am not sure that this is true. If an HDMI to DVI cable is attached to a DVI monitor it should work, but, I don't think that an actual HDMI signal is available. Only a DVI signal delivered via the HDMI connector.

For an actual HDMI signal, you probably do need the tuner.

 

I don't understand why an HDMI port wouldn't deliver a HDMI signal. It's not like I want to decode an HD signal; I just want to mirror my display on an HDTV. Does the TV tuner add a second, "real" HDMI port? If it uses the same port, how would the tuner change anything?

Is there anyone who has the HDX 18 without the TV tuner that can test this? I've only been able to test it on one old HDTV, so I'm not confident that it's not an issue with the TV. I'm going to be buying a new HDTV, but only if I can actually get this to work.

 

I have the HDX18 (NO QUAD THANK YOU VERY MUCH RYAN) but with a TV tuner.. i don't see how you would need the optional TV tuner in order to view via HDMI as you would be doing that for a Bluray DVD and not always with TV...
make sure your TV is on the input selected and then do the cycle with fn/f4.

 

Heck, how about anyone WITH an HDX18 with a TV Tuner and see if it works?

Would love to hear what HP says if HDMI still doesn't work?

 

I believe that I was wrong. Nvidia's specs indicate the chip is capable of driving an HDMI display. SO, it should work.

 

Iggy,

This may sound dumb but is your HDTV old? What is the HDMI specs on it?

I hear that old HDTV's can't work with newer HDMI's? Or is that HDCP?

 

I haven't bought my HDTV yet, because I want to make sure my HDMI output is working. The TV I've been testing it on is my uncle's HP Pavilion DLP. It's about 3-4 years old. It's 1080P and has HDMI, but the manual doesn't mention the version, so I assume it must be HDMI 1.0. I was thinking it might be the TV (until HP support told me I need the TV tuner) because the computer is smart enough to realize that something is connected to the HDMI port (when I press fn + F4 with the HDMI plugged in, the second monitor icon changes to a TV icon). However, the computer can't actually see the second display and even when I force it to output, nothing appears. I'm going to see if I can find someone with a newer TV that I can test it on.

 

HDMI is just DVI+SPDIF, simply put. It is made to be compatible with both, even with the extra content protection protocols.

It could be that the TV doesn't support the resolution... maybe try dual display mode from the NVidia control panel and choose a lower one.

I am able to hook mine up to my two-year-old Sony 40" without any trouble. haven't done it with the HDX yet but I did with a dv7 that had NO TV tuner.

I cannot stress enough... the HDMI output and the TV tuner have nothing to do with each other!

 

Sorry to butt in, but this is one of the funniest responses I've read in a while. The candor is brilliantly satirical.

Ok, back to the thread.

 

Hey Iggy,

This may be a pain, but you could always just take your laptop with you to Best Buy or whatever store and ask to hook it up to a "potential" buy TV..

If they know you are going to buy something and you want to make sure it works first, I can't see why they wouldn't let you test the HDMI..

 

I see massiver flickering when I go to galactichunter.com with my unit that I don't see on any LCD monitors.

Is there a video card setting that I can tweak?

 

Has anyone noticed the volume of the laptop speakers, when at full, is not really loud at all? Is there a way HW utility to get them louder?

Watching Iron Man, I had a hard time understanding some of the dialogue sitting just a few feet away.

 

Really? Lancorp said his is outstanding....do you even feel or hear the subwoofer...maybe your sound settings aren't turned up....

 

Yeah, I'm planning on going into Costco and hooking up to my potential TV this weekend. By the way, I was on the phone with a third tech support person at HP and he said that the HDMI shouldn't require a TV tuner. So now it's just a matter of determining whether the problem lies with my computer or the TV I've been using.

My speakers are quiet, too. They sound better than my old laptop's, but they're not as loud and I don't really notice the subwoofer. And that's with the volume at maximum and bass turned up to 3/4 of maximum. But, I haven't tried a Blu-Ray movie yet, just DVDs.

 

I get that flickering, too. I tried it on my other matte-screen laptop and it looks fine, but I'm not certain it's the HDX's fault. I think it might be because the screen is so much brighter, with a higher contrast, than my other laptop. Black and white patterns, when they're the right contrast, can cause moiré vibration, which makes them appear to flicker even when they're on a printed page.

If you go into the Nvidia control panel and lower your brightness, for instance, from 50 to 35 or so, it should fix the problem (and you'll get better black levels in the process).

 

All of my Windows volume settings, according to the volume mixer, are at their fullest. Same for Windows Media Player. From a software perspective, I'm good, which is why I'm wondering if there is a HW setting I overlooked.

 

I haven't played a Blu-ray movie yet. I was using the Zune software to playback MP3's in my music library.

The sounds was great. Very loud, and the HDX18t would resonate with bass while playing music (jazz and pop).

There is an IDT control panel applet to help out, but volume-wise, I have no issues.

My HDX20 (Dragon) is so loud that it could be easily heard throughout the house. My HDX18t is not far off...

 

Hey Lancorp,

since you like to buy laptops, will you be picking up the first laptop with Intel's new nehalem chip in it? The core i7 or something like that?

 

When I'm making the purchase how do I know I'm going to get the cashback?

 

Finally heard back from Ryan about my keyboard issue (lol)...

So apparently it is a supply issue. I might go for a replacement anyway if the new systems have any different base hardware that I'd be willing to negotiate a (slightly) higher price for...

 

Just got a call back from the HDX support team. Here's what they think I'll need in order to install a second hard drive:

496889-001: Rubber Cushions - $24
496890-001: Screw Kit - $27
496891-001: Cable Kit - $60
496880-001: Enclosure & Bracket - $120

He wasn't sure if these are the right parts or not. You'd think that they would provide something so simple if the sales people are saying we can put in our own second hard drive!

I'm not paying that much when those are maybe the right parts. Actually, I'm not going to pay that much even if they are! If anyone else wants to, or wants to check the price through sparepartswarehouse.com, let me know what you find out.

I don't know what to do about my second hard drive now! Grr.

 

Wow HP really knows how to hose over their customers for a hard drive bracket. The bracket should just come with the chassis whether you order a 2nd HDD or not. HP Blows.

 

I think we should make a stink about them saying it supports two hard drives and then not providing us with, at the very least, their proprietary connector cable.

 

Isn't this considered false advertising?

Class action perhaps?

 

I don't know where to start with that. Any lawyers in the house? I'm sure the threat of such action would help them get us the right parts, if anything...

 

Here's a link to newegg's HDX18t, going for $1600.00

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834147785

If you build this exact model in HP's website, it comes out to $1858.99

I thought BTO's were suppose to be cheaper? How does Newegg even make any money off this?

I also found an HDX16t from Best Buy that is cheaper at the store than to BTO it yourself on HP's website...

 

My friends a lawyer. I would first have to buy an HDX18t on the thought i could use the 2nd hdd...then to my surprise, i can't!!!

I don't think there are enough purchases for a class action anyways...

 

I should have bought it with the second hard drive...frak me.

I just replaced the original drive and I was looking at the parts before seeing this.

Those parts are sure not worth that kind of money. Its not even $5 worth of parts.

I was thinking $50, max, FRAK me.

You can probably use an old anti-static bag from your old video card purchase to make the enclosure. Trace the bracket and cut out the trace from a thick beer can (fosters). I can shave some eraser heads for the rubber brackets. Screw kit from home depot.

Cable kit $60. I have to buy that.

 

... and you'll either get more cables than you need, none of the right cables, or both

Actually I'm sure the right cable must be in there... if you get any extra parts, I would gladly cover a portion of the total price!

 

Ok welp, I went for the 20% Live cashback deal. We'll see if I actually get the 20% off.

Now I just hope they come out with the HDD caddy for this model soon, because I wasn't about to pay $200.00 extra for 2 250's.

 

I can't seem to find the NIT brightness of the LCD panel that comes with the 18t...I checked the support site, the FAQs, the manuals...

Does anyone know if it is 300nit 350nit etc?

 

What configuration did you get?

 

Depends on what I read about it first, and how much it costs. I don't buy the latest and greatest "just because"...I buy it if 1) I can get a really, really good deal on it, and 2) if I need the new technology and it's known to be stable.

I don't keep my laptops long, so it's important to not buy anything at list price, or I really take it in the shorts at sale time! Most of the time, I get such a good deal, that I can use it, and sell it and either break even or make a profit!

For what I sold my extra QUAD HDX18t for, it basically paid for MY new HDX18t! Now that's the way to do it!

 

Dell does the same thing if you order one of their 17" notebooks with only one drive...you only get one bracket.

I agree...it's not right.

 

basically everything except no tv tuner, no bluetooth, and no dual hard drives. I'll buy the caddy when a third party starts selling it for the HDX18, which hopefully is not too far off.

My cashback for 20% is pending. so it looks like it's good to go.

So, do we know of a cooling pad that fits this monster?

 

Yeah, and I knew they would do it, I just thought it would be easier to get a bracket after the fact.

Now I'm stuck with my second 320GB drive, with all of my important work data, connected to an enclosure via USB or eSATA. It'll work for now, but it's still a tremendous pain.

 

What's stupid is the proprietary connector. At least Dell using a simple SATA mating connector. Then, if you wanted to, you could kludge your hard disk in without the bracket and secure it fairly well and you have a working dual drive system!

 

OOooh, you can get the lightscribe now !

 

Hi Vista,
That seems to be an excellent price! I'm not ready to pull the trigger yet because I have serious doubts about the quality of the display *and* the lack of a -no Infinity- option. When and if I decide to buy I think it will be from NewEgg. Great company with excellent prices and no hassle customer service!

 

What are your concerns over the display? I know some members here said the brightness could be a little better...as someone who uses photoshop a lot, I need the quality of the screen to be really good, I hope to see a display model of the 16t at best buy...

One thing that concerns me is I cannot find the NIT level, back in the day they used to provide this on laptops but now they cover it up by calling them ultrabright display etc...

 

Not knowing the exact model of the panel in the HDX18t, I did ascertain that it is a SAMSUNG. Looking at SAMSUNG's website, they list only one FHD 18.4 panel, the LTN-184HT. Here's the specs:



The resolution isn't quite the same...so this may not be the exact panel...but it's the only one they list as a FHD 18.4"...

 

Maybe this one is it:

16:9 LCDs

Size: 18.4″, 16.0″
Pixel Format: 1920 x 1080 (18.4″ , 1366 x 768 (16.0″
Colors: 262,144 for both (6-bit)
Brightness: 300 cd/m2 (18.4″ , 220 cd/m2 (16.0″
Color Gamut: 90% NTSC (18.4″ , 60% NTSC (16.0″
Contrast Ratio: 800:1 for both
Response Time: 8ms for both
Viewing Angle: 140/135 for both
Availability: 1H’08

 

wow thanks lancorp! Good investigative work...

The CDM seems default like most screens....350/400 would be nicer..

Contract ratio at 800:1, I suppose is pretty decent...

I am QUITE shocked though to see 8MS response time?

Under Device Manager, what does it say for Monitor?

 

More SONY battery recalls....

I believe my HP Tablet is affected....

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/27462337/

 

HP's w2408h 24" Monitor main specs are:
What I don't like are the "typical" and "up to" remarks..
I mean what gives, does the monitor support it or not....

$500

1920 x 1200 @ 60Hz recommended
1000:1 (typical)
Up to 400 nits
5ms response rate (typical)


BenQ's 24" Monitor:

$400

-24"W LCD Monitor (1920x1200)
-The Slimmest 24"W LCD Monitor
-2 ms GTG Response Time
-4000:1 DCR


I wanted to get HP everything, monitor, desktop, laptop, have a nice clean "same look" but their specs aren't up to snuff.....

I guess there's no way you can ever get REAL good specs if you stick with one vendor...I just hate having multiple vendors with different components, that's what I have now with my Acer flat panel connected to my gateway laptop using logitech keyboard/mouse..

 

Looks like the BENQ contrast ratio is a dynamic spec, that will always be higher...Samsung I think I've seen some stupidly spec'd 10000:1 dynamic contrast ratio. Much of it is marketing-speak to be able to show a higher number (which is what your average consumer looks at...numbers).

Get what looks good. At the end of the day, that's all that matters.

 

MONITOR\SEC314A

 

Yes! The 10,000:1 is crazy. It's not real. It is marketing hype...

I really like the one clean look, my friend setup his office with everything Mac and it just looks stunning. I was hoping to do the same with HP equipment instead as I do like HP's designs...

 

Oh well that doesn't help. Was hoping we could get some good details
so I can google the device details and find out the exact specs..

But I think your specs above are pretty accurate...

 

What kind of external SATA interface does the laptop use (the port on the side of the laptop)? Can one use a regular sata cable or does it require an eSATA cable? I assume one is not included with the laptop.