Seer: thanks for the input and the help. Unfortunately nothing managed to make a difference.
It's not banding - the color on the display is fine. I guess the best way for me to describe it other than "lines" would be to say that greys look like they would on an old interlaced display. Every 3 pixel lines is either brighter or darker than the surrounding lines, all the way up and down the display.
It's not noticeable on single colors (red, green, blue), but it really shows up when looking at video.
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Just downloaded k10stat but can't seem to figure it out. I've enabled clock control, but the only way to increase the frequencies is to change the "FID". When I hit apply, HWinfo doesn't seem to be showing the right frequencies though. And when I set a core to a certain p-state, HWinfo doesn't report any frequency change.
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I plan on doing a complete "how-to" on this once I get my laptop back. Actually if I get to Best Buy and pick up that Asus I may be able to do it sooner. Problem is they don't have them at the Best Buy near me and have to make a special trip to another one about ten miles away. I may still do that though to have something to play with until my HP arrives.
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I have a DV6 6135DX. I love it and up until now It's not given me much trouble.
But In any of your opinion's what's the best way to check to see if the discrete gpu is working? AMD's system monitor seems to be showing me that the IGP is doing all the work in games and such. And also that the 6750m is idle at 0mhz for both clock speed and memory. And also this with CCC set to high performance for specific applications under switchable graphics.
I should have the latest drivers etc. -
Frank, sounds like you have to do the whole CCC assignment of task to gpu procedure. Start up the CCC or system control center ( there are two different versions from what I've seen) and in the upper right you'll see "Preferences" click on that and you'll see the option to restore factory defaults. Do that and start assigning as you use things. Make sure you have Crossfire checked in the performance menu.
Wing, just go buy the thing alreadyi want to see what you can make it do
LOL
R3, in abbadon's overclock thread he has a link to good k10stat tutorial. sounds like you've missed something simple, I see a face/palm coming...
Murdock, see if you can find an old time tv technician in near you, the guy that KNOWS tv's and take your lappy down and have him look at the monitor. My guess is that he'll be able to tell you instantly what's wrong. If you've done all I suggested, sounds like a bad panel to me
Lines like that are "usually " drivers or connections...but if you've covered those and the others.. well , looks like a bad panel. You're the first i've heard of anyone having that problem. If you have to send it back, they MAY just swap out the lid and send the rest of your box back to you.I'd ask.
Seer -
Wow that was a simple fix, because here I was thinking i colossally messed something up thanks very much seer.
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I'd rather buy it at the local store because when I go to return it, I'll have to make another trip to that other store. -
Seer -
Here's a thread on that Asus: http://forum.notebookreview.com/asus/601808-k53ta-best-deal-ever-could.html
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Hey guys, anyone tried repasting? I think you may be able to OC considerably more if you do. And, anyone ever seen Some Guy's heatsink mod for the M11x? Think it could work on the DV6z? If I ever get one, I'd do it.
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If I keep this laptop, after a few months will most likely do my own paste job as well as look at some cooling mods. It seems the Asus K53 $450 laptop from Best Buy also suffers from high heat issues. I also plan on buying the Asus K53 and comparing its overclock potential to the DV6z. For $450 you can't turn that opportunity down. -
Your right. I think, that with sme cooling mods, though, maybe you could hit 3GHz stable constantly, since people have hit it, albiet with high temps. Lower temps by 20C, and you got 3GHz.
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Well, I ordered the Asus K53 from Best Buy. Will do my best to pick it up tomorrow with kids in tow. The Best Buy nearest me is the largest one in Metro Detroit, not sure why it's not in stock.
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Very interested to see how it overclocks and performs. Could be an AMAZING deal.
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Is it normal to hit 89C during Prime95 at 2.6 ghz @1.15V?
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Ok good to hear its not an isolated case. However, I am sure its not a lemon since it operates at 38C during idle @0.675 V and consumes 14w. Maybe the reason dv6z costs 599 now is because hp skimped on some cool features that were orginally included with dv6.
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I think just a good repaste with a regular tried and true thermal interface material like Arctic Silver 5 or IC Diamond will drop temps a solid 5c minimum at load, probably more. The stuff they use at these factories is no more than a reformulated toothpaste, seriously. It's there to transfer heat, and usually dries up in less than a year, probably even less if you run at load a lot. You would think with these processes automated that it would be applied and spread across the whole die, well I'd say in more than 50% of the cases I've seen, it's a horrible coverage of the die.
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I've been reading these forms alot and wanted to say thanks for helping me make the decision to buy. Just got word that my laptop shipped today and will be here Friday! Then I get to try and overclock the thing
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I just bought a dv6-6124ca, I love it! but after countless hour browsing through these forums I still have no idea if you can disable dynamic gpu switching? Any help guys?
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can anyone tell me if the wifi card in the dv6z supports wireless display? i noticed that it different from the intel ones. thanks
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Opps should of been more specific, I meant switch from dynamic switching to fixed switching. The whole opengl defaulting to igp is quite annoying.
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edit: Has anybody tried out the "watch live TV" option in windows media center? I uninstalled the driver for the TV tuner so it doesn't do anything for me (d'oh!) but I wonder if it does anything for people who haven't uninstalled the driver. Would be a nice bonus if this laptop came with a TV tuner! -
With HP Coolsense on Performance it will start to throttle the CPU at 85C. So if you start to see some jittery performance all of a sudden it's because coolsense is throttling the CPU to 1/2 it's P0 state. Is this happening to you?
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seer -
its hella fun learning how to tweak these most tweakable of laptops..just go SLOOOOOOOW and keep an eye on your temps at all times.
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LOL.
seer -
the reason my temps stay down is i don't wait till its on the boil before I ramp up the fan speed. On Afterburner, hit the settings button at bottom right, then the fan tab at upper left. just drag the little squares around to bring up fan speed earlier. For instance I start and 20 percent and then ramp up in steps. At 65 I bring on 80 percent fan. That has driven it down from 72-3 anytime it bumps up there. I roll up to 100 percent fan if the temp passes 76C. It hasn't done that in a long time now.
Another thing, make sure you use as few points on your fan graph as possible and do NOT make a curve, as the processor has to constantly intervene (thus using clock cycles) to keep up with every small increment on the curve as opposed to sitting static and not drawing resources except at defined jump points.
g'luck tho i have to tell you, before I ever even touched the fan, i never saw over 82 or 3 on this box. Have you tried pulling the voltage down a bit more? and are you locking all four cores at 2.5? or letting them float up and down individually?
Seer -
Seer,
We have a lot of non-believers on the fan issue. Not sure what makes it work on some and not on others.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...-adjust-system-fan-speed-msi-afterburner.html -
Dunno Wing, u DO have to set the auto button correctly and you DO have to change the fan setting on Trixx (which i have autostart before afterburner then once the computer is up i kill Trixx and rely on afterburner. The other thing I seem to different than you guys is the clean install. I'm one of the guys that installs the software that comes with the unit, then start weeding out things I don't need as I find out what they all do. Hp is notorious for 'tweaking' its drivers/software and not documenting what they've done, so until I discover to the contrary, I let their stuff run until i'm sure I don't need/want it.
Seer -
EDIT: False Alarm Seems K10Stat Stopped working and the default 1.8ghz core clock took over... -
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I tried to run minecraft with crossfire but only 6620g is utilized, I guess this is the same problem as intel switchable graphics right?
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Hey guys, I just got my 1600mhz RAM in. I've DL CrystalMark2004, Sandra Lite, and Crysis. Is there any other benchmarks i should try that are under 20MB? I say less than 20MB because my internet here is worse than dial-up...literally...like I'm not being sarcastic...as in im totally serious...for real...not even kidding...
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I would say 3DMark11, but, dannnnnggg.
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Just picked up the Asus K53TA. Initial impressions here: http://forum.notebookreview.com/asus/601808-k53ta-best-deal-ever-could-12.html#post7825798
Basically other than the horrific screen, it's a solid build. -
scratch the Crysis Benchmark...didn't know it was not a standalone benchmarking tool...
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ok, so are there any options I need to edit to install the new RAM? I installed the new RAM, turned on the PC, and the screen stayed black. I thought great, theyre DOA. So I put in one of the old RAM sticks to test it, and it worked. So i thought oh maybe only one of them is bad. So I tried the other new stick with the original and it worked again...So I don't know what I am supposed to do. Any suggestions?
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What memory are you using?? Speed? Brand? Product Code? How many GB?
You can test the sticks one at a time with a program called memtest86+. Be sure to test them one at a time. -
When you put in the single stick what speed does it recognize it as? Use CPU-Z to check if you need to.
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thanks for the help, ill look into memtest -
Ok so here is my CPU-Z screen grabs...I cannot run the new sticks individually, or together. But if i combine either one with an old stick, its works and can be read correctly by CPU-Z. What do you guys think?
if the image doesnt work heres the report:
DIMM # 1
SMBus address 0x50
Memory type DDR3
Module format SO-DIMM
Manufacturer (ID) Elpida (7F7FFE0000000000)
Size 4096 MBytes
Max bandwidth PC3-10700 (667 MHz)
Part number EBJ41UF8BCS0-DJ-F
Serial number 41C60EE0
Manufacturing date Week 14/Year 11
Number of banks 8
Nominal Voltage 1.50 Volts
EPP no
XMP no
JEDEC timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC @ frequency
JEDEC #1 5.0-5-5-14-19 @ 380 MHz
JEDEC #2 6.0-6-6-17-23 @ 457 MHz
JEDEC #3 7.0-7-7-20-27 @ 533 MHz
JEDEC #4 8.0-8-8-22-30 @ 609 MHz
JEDEC #5 9.0-9-9-25-34 @ 685 MHz
JEDEC #6 10.0-10-10-28-38 @ 761 MHz
DIMM # 2
SMBus address 0x51
Memory type DDR3
Module format SO-DIMM
Manufacturer (ID) G.Skill (7F7F7F7FCD000000)
Size 4096 MBytes
Max bandwidth PC3-12800H (800 MHz)
Part number F3-12800CL9-4GBSQ
Number of banks 8
Nominal Voltage 1.50 Volts
EPP no
XMP no
JEDEC timings table CL-tRCD-tRP-tRAS-tRC @ frequency
JEDEC #1 5.0-5-5-16-21 @ 444 MHz
JEDEC #2 6.0-6-6-19-25 @ 533 MHz
JEDEC #3 7.0-7-7-22-29 @ 622 MHz
JEDEC #4 8.0-8-8-25-33 @ 711 MHz
JEDEC #5 9.0-9-9-28-37 @ 800 MHz
JEDEC #6 10.0-10-10-32-42 @ 888 MHz
P.S. not sure how to add an image, hope this works... -
Under the "Memory" tab it probably shows DRAM frequency at 667MHz which is 1333MHz effective. The reason it probably works with another stick is because it will drop the speed down to 1333MHz and not try to run at 1600MHz.
Not sure what the issue is off hand. I'll have to think about it. -
When you open up afterburner, down at the bottom where it says "Fan Speed(%), the grey area around that rectangle should be BLUE. Also, the small button to the right entitled "Auto" has a small light in, push that button until that light turns BLUE. the grey vertically oriented 'User Define" button, should be GREY. When you hit the 'settings" button at bottom right and open afterburner up, hit the 'Fan" tab at upper left. Right below that it says "Automatic fan control properties, and right below that is a check box for "Enable user defined software automatic fan control" check that, set up your fan speed/temp stair steps and hit "OK" at the bottom and you should be good to go.
Seer -
The reason that you can't run them one at a time is because HP has screwed the consumer over and most likely limited memory to 1333 speeds only, regardless of capable memory controller.
It won't run with a single / dual 1600 sticks because they've probably white listed anything running at or over that speed. The reason you can run one with an older stick is because the PC will always clock down to the lowest common memory for compatibility (1333mhz).
They did the same thing on my old DV6-3000. The memory controller of the AMD CPU was rated at 800mhz (meaning that it should have been able to accept DDR2 800 memory), but instead they limited it to 667 for heat / stability issues they said. -
seer -
Perhaps the timings are outside the range that the bios permits at 667 speeds. Did you fire off a note to HP tech support? someone there should know what if anything they have done. Looking at the bios, there is a full memtest routine built. Did you say that if you only put one of your new ram chips in it would work, but only with one of the originals in there too? did you try the single in both ram sockets?
Also, how much time did you give it to start when you put just one of the new sticks in? You might let it sit for several minutes. Could be the bios will cause the unknown mem to go thru a test/calibration cycle before going on with the boot. If that's the case, it could take ten or 15 miinutes to do it.
Seer
*HP dv6z AMD Llano (6XXX series) Owners Lounge*
Discussion in 'HP' started by scy1192, Jun 22, 2011.