*HP dv6z AMD Llano (6XXX series) Owners Lounge*

Again, keep your fingers crossed. Several people have had their dv6's arrive before they were supposed to ship

seer

 

Thanks, sorry for asking again, I'm getting antsy to get it!

 

Wishing for a Christmas with clocks , break laptop apart and system crash/BSOD ?

 

The crystal ball says....

"You will have it precisely at the moment it arrives, not one second more or less."

Hope that helps!

 

I am really jealous of you guys, these llanos with overclocking look totally awesome. Im a die hard AMD guy, but most of my laptops have been intel because rarely can you get a powerful mobile GPU paired with AMD cpu. Last year I bought a gateway NV53 with N830 / ATI 5650. I swapped in an X920 quad, but was really pissed when i couldnt overclock an unlocked CPU. Under full load it only ran around 65C, meanwhile my I5-430 laptop would run 90-95C. Still my gateway beat my buddies Core i7 laptop in everygame and quite a few benchmarks, while saving $350.

Then I bought an Asus G73, i loved that laptop but i was never impressed by the I7, nor the I5 i had in another laptop. The only Intel processor that really impressed me (even further back, i had a gateway FX where I swapped in an extreme core 2 duo -- i ran that at 3.4ghz and it was BEAST paired with Geforce 9800GTS)

I am willing to bet guys running these llanos at 2.4-2.6ghz have some really solid portable gaming setups. you dont have to worry about throttling or anything...

 

Actually we do worry about throttling... around 94~ or so degrees, but most of us manage to get below 90, yesterday I was overclocking a DV7 with an A8-3500... that thing ran much cooler than mine, he was barely above 82° with no cooling mod at 2.6 GHz....

 

Yes! I would not make a case for AMD on the desktop. Unlimited power and cooling are available, and the 4.5GHz i5 setup would be hard enough to beat. (much less full i7 tomfoolery)

But I hear they'll sell you a laptop with 2.5GHz 2920QM, then fail to include proper cooling. Add a little load and suddenly you'd be lucky to maintain 2GHz. Meanwhile a much cheaper system can run up to 3GHz in CPU-only programs, and maintain that level forever...

...but with a little voltage love the same machine can run twice as long as the i7 in several common scenarios.

 

I'm interested... what's this much cheaper system you talk about? (and what's the machine with the intel one???)

 

Well, a gaming AMD desktop can have same or better "gaming" performance as a i5 setup and cost less.

 

i just did a clean install of windows 7, do i need drivers like HP software Framework, HP connection manager, HP simplepass identity protevtion, protect smart hard drive protection?

 

Speaking of temps, with my P0 at 2.4, I don't get above 79 degrees without a cooler. With my cooler, I only hit 69. Perhaps I have a lot of headroom left on my 3500? I was idling tonight at 800mhz and 27 degrees on the cooler. Idle without, 37. It's amazing how consistent this laptop cooler is that I have!

 

Hey Wingnut,
Was looking at your cooling hack and slash mod on your dv6z (hehehe). How effective do you think your additional hole in the case under the center of the fan was as compared to the additional heatsinks, cutting out the bottom grills etc. was? Can you give me a guess as to the percentage contribution the fan hole made to what you guesstimated to be your final improvements in cooling?
Thanks in advance.
seer

 

Newegg.com - Seagate Momentus XT ST95005620AS 500GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache 2.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s with NCQ Solid State Hybrid Drive -Bare Drive
If anybody has been wanting a SSD but was afraid of running out of space or didn't want to pay for a huge SSD today is your last chance to pick up a Seagate Momentus XT hybrid drive for $90. 500gb 7200 rpm with a 4gb SSD drive that gets used for your most commonly used files. Its a good compromise drive and is still cheaper than a regular 500gb 7200rpm drive.

 

My 1080p upgrade was free and im going to pay for my other screen.

 

Also to you guys of the dv6-6135dx: do not be surprise when you open her up and find plenty of double sided scotch tape holding this thing together

 

I made the holes below the CPU and GPU first, and just with that had a definite 5C drop. Then I added the heatsinks and gained another 3-4C drop. The hole below the fan only helped by a couple C. All thee are WITHOUT cooler. I got a definite extra 5C+ with that.

The slot in the fan shroud helped, but it made the rest of the laptop get hot, so I patched that backup, actually ordered a replacement heatsink/fan assembly eventually, which seems to work better than the original.

It took me from being able to run at 2.2GHz without any mod at 80-85C to running 2.4GHz < 80C (with cooler) running P95 + Kombustor.

 

Hey guys time to find out how to get a backlit keyboard onto this thing.

Several of you guys mentioned that the old dv6 had backlit keyboard. Is the keyboard connector the same? would i be able to connect it to my dv6-6135dx.

The only problem some one mentioned is that there is no connection for the lights power. If this is true, and the keyboard is the exact same size and would fit in this laptop then its just a matter of finding a point that would provide the right voltage. If worst comes to worst theres plenty of space between the system board and usb 3.0 board to have something feed the required volts.

 

You could probably get the lit keyboard to work. You just would not be able to turn it off unless you incorporated a physical switch somewhere.

 

Im never goign to use the keylock next to the usb3.0 so a nice little switch there would get the job done. so whats the part number or what hp model do i search? all the dv6 that i find don't even have a numberpad. Im wondering iF the hp envy 17 inch has the same size keyboard if all else fails.

 

I did a clean install
What i get from HP site:
AMD Graphic( dont run it, It uninstall all your previous driver, just extract it.)
LAN
WLAN
USB 3.0 Controller
Sound Driver
Webcam? ( Not sure if I had that or not)
Fingerprint reader driver (so no unknown device)
Card reader Driver
Drive protection (so no unknown device)
On Screen Display.

I find all other stuff is bloat ~~

Get 11.12 chipset driver and 12.1 Display Driver from AMD

The order I did was:
AMD stuff first
extract(DO A EXTRACT USING WINRAR or stop the installation after self extract) HP stock graphic and run the install manager and check if I miss any stuff.
Install the rest.

I cant say this is the right way, but it works for me

 

Here's the goal:

An easy-to-follow, step-by-step comprehensive guide to achieving a safe, constant, and long-lasting 2.2ghz OC for everyone.

No case mods, no repasting...essentially, nothing that would require any physical hardware change. Stock all the way, baby.

1. Of course, the first goal is that everything works, i.e CrossFire, no BSOD, no high temps, etc. You'll also have to provide solid recommendations for the software suite of free drivers and tools to ascertain accuracy, stability, temps, etc.

2. The second is for the whitelist to be removed, primarily so that peeps can replace the wireless card with one of their choice.

3. The third is for a safe, mild OC of the graphics. Same rules apply for the first goal.

I will be the guinea pig for your procedures and proofreader/editor for your guide.

SUBMISSIONS MUST BE MADE TO ME VIA PRIVATE MESSAGE! (It's a real drag when people post publicly and then get into arguments over whose idea was what, what does and does not work, personal preferences, etc. While public posts may be incorporated into this guide...it will also disqualify you. You've been warned.)

Winner gets a $50 Newegg/Tiger/Amazon Gift certificate of your choice from me, and credit for the solution. Next main contributor gets $25 certificate of your choice. (And, yeah, since it's my money...I decide the winners.)

[Those others of you who want this to happen as well, and will use the final solution...you might want to think about throwing down some $$$ as incentive to the winner and second-place finalist as well!]

Winning consists of the easiest-to-follow, error-free, lowest-voltage solution that safely works. You don't necessarily have to be first across the line, but it wouldn't hurt your chances of winning for sure.

Basically, this for all the dv6-6xxx noobs (including me), to help us get our stock machines up to decent performance levels with the minimum tech knowledge and time it takes.

We might end up with a hell of a club, given the massive number of these refurbs sold this season, so wouldn't it be a great welcome to the dv6 board?

Let the games begin! Contest ends at the end of Christmas Day!

 

WOAH HAVE I MISSED OUT? AMD CHIPSET DRIVERS? From where and whats the name of the drivers?

 

AMD RAID/SATA Drivers

Download the AHCI one. Should update your SATA driver and such. It doesnt give much improvement over stock but still it is "updated"

edit : you can try the south bridge one aswell, but i think that is included in 12.1 Display driver

@clark Reading 400 forum pages isnt that hard

 

I must have messed up something while installing the drivers.

I got all the drivers from HP site after installing them everything was Ok except for

1. The volume level became too low. (Fixed it : by uninstalling the device from device manger and let windows install the device on "New hardware found")
2. The backlight around the track-pad is gone. I noticed it quite late. Is it the drivers? or there is some hardware/software setting for it?

Though not of much use but I liked trackpad light thingy. How can I get it back. I don't want to uninstall all the drivers. Guys help please !!

 

I know, but I haven't yet found a way to weed out your posts...

 

I turned fans always on off and set Fan on temp 60.
The damn fan keep turning on at 50 for 1 sec then off. SO ANNOYING !

 

Without the $50 off I'd sooner go with a standard SSD. I have a Sandisk 120GB in mine for $129, and bought a cd replacement caddy for the old 500GB since I havent used the CD drive since I bought this thing.

 

as would I so it is a good thing it is $50 off.

 

for you guys claiming:

P3: 24/2/0.0500 2000

are you sure that is correct? i dont think you can get 2000mhz on .0500

 

Vect: I bookmarked this a while ago, Request for testing - Alienware owners

But looking elsewhere it seems the 2920XM was being used improperly in some cases, and there were also engineering samples floating in the market. These are definitely not very mobile, and you need a good desk setup to use one properly. With an idealized environment and some paste they can stay above 3.5GHz, but as an upgrade many laptops could only sustain 2720-level performance over an extended period...? Battery life is tolerable if your motherboard cripples the CPU, and perhaps this makes sense when a 2920 often ships with two GPUs and a 300W+ AC adapter...but the users are a little concerned that they basically can't do more than browse when on battery power. Please correct me if I have something wrong, I just haven't tracked Intel as much as AMD in 2011.

When speaking in terms of "cheaper", I of course meant laptops more like our Z's. I'm close to certain on the stability of my 2.8/3.0 settings, and CPU-constrained tests have improved more than 80% on average. Battery life out of the box was 3.5-4 hrs on the internet, closer to 2 hrs gaming. Now I get more like 6-7 hrs with my web/office profile, and more than 3 hrs of gaming. That 9-cell is something I will have to buy, 5+ hrs of gaming on battery is one SEXY prospect.

 

If you are referring to this post then it surely is a typo. It was intended to be 1.05 for 2000 and 1.075 for 2200.

 

Has anyone faced this issue??

 

Press fn+spacebar.

 

Thanks!! Repped.

 

So I installed the 12.1 preview drivers (they include 11.11c performance drivers that that 11.12 do not).

The thing is, I don't see an option to enable / disable crossfire. I remember distinctly seeing this option, but now I'm only left with the Switchable Graphics.

Is there something I'm missing?

EDIT:

http://support.amd.com/us/kbarticles/Pages/Catalyst121Previewdriver.aspx

 

How did you install on it?
On top of everything? or ?

 

It's now called "Dual Graphics" and bottom option under gaming.

 

With the back and forth on the A8 versus the i7 I think one thing I'd like to benchmark is how long you can get out of the same basic machine (dv6t versus dv6z) playing back HD video on battery. I.e. the scenario of flying cross country and watching movies from your hard drive. Given the very low power draw of an A8 and its IGP to play 1080p HD video, I wonder if the dv7t wuold need to use the 6770 GPU to get smooth playback, or if the HD3000 can get smooth 1080p, and if so, what the power draw is.

It's not an artifical benchmark really, but a real world use scenario, and I'm willing to bet the A8 would get quite a bit mroe time on battery under those circumstances. Anyone got an i7/HD3000 equipped dv7t to compare with? I'll gladly run the test on my dv6z-6135DX to see how long it works. I figure we could run big buck bunny so it's the same video etc. Any takers?

Actually given the natve low res screens on the dv6-6135dx I'd say 720p video would be more fair.

 

Notebookcheck already did something similar with their review of the similarly spec'd dv6t and dv6z (scroll to the bottom of the reviews). The Intel dv6t lasted 3 hours 40 mins and the AMD dv6z one lasted 3 hours 10 mins, so Sandy Bridge won by 30 minutes (probably due to Intel's Quick Sync). Though the dv6z wasnt undervolted so a good UV may make up for the 30 minute difference.

 

Just did a repaste, everything is fine except my wireless usb mouse not working anymore, which is kind of cute........

edit: oops nvm, it is moving again.....

1.05 60 degree max cpu prime 95 burn (40F room temp though ~~, cant affod heat)

Do i need to tune clock to find the highest VID?

Nvm, high clock raise heat as well

repaste literally buy me 20C of performance

Kombustor = instant throttle ......... ( Any way to lock clock and burn GPU at same time?)

 

I'm still rather new to the OC game, but I thought undervolting would be rather simple. I used voltages similar to the ones posted on p337 with lower clock speeds for each state and my system freezes when I try applying them. Why is that? Here is what he had:

B0 2600 1.125
P0 2200 1.000
P1 1800 .9625
P2 1600 .9125
P3 1400 .8625
P4 1300 .8125
P5 1200 .7500
P6 800 .675

Mine were:


B0 2400 1.125
P0 1500 1.000
P1 1400 .9625
P2 1200 .9125
P3 1100 .8625
P4 1000 .8125
P5 900 .7500
P6 800 .675

 

Turn off Cool and Quiet in Bios and no throttle. But windows CPU control is gone aswell.

I dun know what I did, but cool and quiet throttle me any time when dGPU kick in.

 

any of you guys put heatsinks on the 6750m's ram?

would the a8-3530m have more oc potential than the a8-3500m? I am thinking probably not if it is just higher clocked from the factory.

I am thinking the first thing I would like to do when i get a 6135dx would be to get a feel for it,, than strip it of all HP non-sense and than clean install of 7 ultimate 64. look at some base figures you guys are doing in k10stat than go from there.

 

It may just be that lowest setting, try setting the 800MHz to .700 or higher. Not all APUs can take a super low idle voltage.

I just looked at those two reviews of highly similar HP laptops. A few things come to mind.

1) The i-series representative seems to have had a faulty assembly, judging from stated keyboard issues and etc.

2) Both systems were totally stock, perhaps this is good for out-of-box impressions but I generally expect reviewers to PLAY at least a little. This was most noticeable in 6755G2 issues not being statefully resolved or updated. The respective behavior of Coolsense between platforms was also not properly addressed (particularly noise and temperature variation).

3) It may not matter much, but the i-series laptop had a newer revision R of the DVDRW drive. In comparison many 6z's shipped with a BDROM after that point.

4) I wonder if EITHER laptop was using hardware decoding for playback. I also did not see numbers for looping a commonly available 1080p video clip. Watching a DVD in the disc drive while on battery....already becoming a rarefied experience. Maybe I missed it, but I also did not see mention of power state settings for video playback.

Iblard Jikan (Blu-Ray) Doki Fansubs
The Hi10 1080p encode uses totally absurd amounts of CPU. With stock clocks and newest CCCP/MPC-HC, it will sometimes run up over 100% and stutter. I remain against Hi10 encodes for this exact reason, but it good to know your foe. I recoded down to 8-bit, something around 2GB+ but it played smoothly with ~0% CPU.

I do think that looping 8-bit, High Profile Big Buck Bunny or summat similar would be a much better measure of battery performance between i-series and AMD...especially with hardware acceleration on. Messing with voltages is optional, but it would be nice to have a before/after on the same computer.

 

May be a noob question but.....

I am trying to overclock my GPU using old HP drivers and MSI afterburner. The maximum value I can set my core clock is to 770 but I see musho's overclocked file repository having core clock to 800.

Is there a way to test for 800 without musho's bios?

 

Well, to be fair, the reviews were written a pretty long time ago when none of the OCing stuff was common knowledge. But yeah, they should be more transparent with the methodology for testing battery life while playing videos.

 

Actually, the other night I had an issue where drivers weren't working correctly. Each time I set a program to "High Performance" and clicked apply, it would immediately go back to "Not Assigned" in the Vision Engine Control Center.

Driver Sweeper looks to have been discontinued, so I decided to do a clean install of Win 7 x64 on this system. I then copied over the SW folder from a thumb drive.

Order of operations:

1) Windows updates (including graphics driver from them), just so Cata drivers have a basic knowledge of my hardware.
2) Cata 12.1 Preview
3) I restarted computer
4) Tried to install latest HP Graphics Display Driver (it recognizes that you have the most recent, so it only installs the USB3 bus drivers and Hitachi HDD driver.

After that, my switchable graphics settings stick just fine. I then installed:

-Support Assist for Cool Sense
-On Display drivers
-Fingerprint driver
-Quick Launch Driver (FN + Esc)

One thing you all should note: HP Power Manager crashes constantly. Windows 7 clean install + that software is no good. I just created a shortcut on the desktop to Power Options to switch custom profiles that I've made for high performance vs power saver.

I downloaded League of Legends (my game of choice) and I want to see if the dedicated card runs for it. What's the best way to monitor if that occurs?

HT Wingnut, thanks, you're right, I just thought there was something more than this simplified method. I'm still surprised that they would create a way to turn off switchable graphics, but neglect to add the ability to force one card or the other: IE: remain on "Fixed Graphics" state. Perhaps it's not possible since the IGP is on the die.

 

Any 1 have successful story with replacing WLAN card?
A "entertainment" PC with 2 antenna blew my mind off.

 

Hey HTWing! Do you know what laptop model of the old dv6 would work that you mentioned?

 

Would any body know why when using FusionTweaker V1.0.5 it dose not go any lower than P4 state?