Windstrings:I have that same one for my 15.5" ZV6000.... nice case.
Which one is it that you have?
Regards,
- - Phil
-
Nice buy! Sounds like you're right that the price was affected by the accompanying purchase of the Dv8.
Regards,
- - Phil -
Though I know you don't mean it that way, Peter, most folks think 'scan disk' is the same as chkdsk/f. Running "scannow" as you intended is fine but, I would add to your suggestions, that chkdsk/f be run before anyone run a 'repair install' (very exhaustive and discards a lot of stuff - wouldn't do it unless I did a Ghost clone first) so all files are confirmed as complete and properly recorded in NTFS.
I share your view that hardware issues are most likely behind the OP (jefnel) problem with power source icon not showing AC power.
Regards,
- -Phil -
That's right I meant scannow.
-
Yup...
Jefnel should still run CHKDSK/F before going through the exhaustive "repair install."
Regards,
- - Phil -
How long has it been doing that and have you done a bios update?
I could be wrong but that symptom is such a deep hardware related issue "one without settings or options" I would speculate it may not be installed software related.
"Maybe" a driver but I'm assuming you have the latest....
If it were mine I would be wondering if the bios got corrupted somehow and/or if its a bug and would make sure I'm running the latest bios.
I've updated mine several times without a glitch.
I would suggest turning off AV when you initiate it.
Another suggestion is if your version is rather old maybe install in incremental steps... meaning going to the next version, and then the next and then the next.
While this sounds like it increases the likelihood for an error due to more exposure.... the main problems I remember with bios updates are from those updating in such a fashion thats unusual.... specifically.. updating from a very old version skipping several versions in between.
This is just a suggestion of course.
I don't know how hard it is to access the older versions but if your running the DV8T CTO1100, I do have every version back to F.15 if you need them.
The last two are here. -
Jefnel:I would not presume BIOS problems are a likely cause for your symptoms. I would look to all other alternative remedies before I would tackle a BIOS update.
It seems VERY unlikely that a BIOS corruption would be so "neat and clean" as to only affect the Dv8 in the way you described. Normally a damaged BIOS will show lots of other symptoms besides affecting only indicator lights and icon display (and, in all likelihood would not let you even start the PC).
If you have other issues that you haven't reported, you might want to review what the various BIOS updates offer to remedy. The updating of a BIOS is the riskiest update a user can perform and, AFAICT, nothing in any of the BIOS updates has fixed anything significant enough to justify the risk of ruining your Dv8! FWIW, for example, I'm still running under the original BIOS (F.06) from last November '09 and EVERYTHING in my DV8 works perfectly!
If the AC adapter ever reaches the point where it won't operate your Dv8, I'd try a different AC adapter. If no AC adapter will operate it and it's under warranty, I'd send it in for repair. At the present time, your problems haven't come close to making your laptop inoperable though it is clearly desirable for you to pursue actions to remedy your icon and light issues.
Absolutely the LAST thing I'd do (as long as ypur Dv8 is working) is update the BIOS without specific direction from an HP Customer Service Tech to do so (with HP taking responsibility for failure).
Regards,
- - Phil -
I think it's likely to be hardware related after all. some months ago some ants had camped out in my laptop but i had rid it of them within a day. I don't know.... that was so long ago (april) it seems unlikely a problem would just now be showing up. -
It happened this morning. It was off charging last night, had to leave the house so i unplugged it from the wall. this morn plugged it back in & noticed the absence of the light on the side, & later the whole issue re the win7 pwr icon -
i'm still on the F.06 bios myself. I agree with you. with the laptop off, the bios isn't loaded so even if it's messed up, i dont think it would cause the ac source light not to come on. I just pulled the cover off the back not too long ago and found the remains of three ants. Could they really be the cause of the issue i'm having?? -
I'm gonna follow this disassembly guide http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c01910942.pdf and get myself a tin of compressed air and just kill two birds with one stone; search & remove any foreign debris and clean the fan/heatsink of any dust that may have gathered. Just need to plan out a date and time to do it.
-
WOW! New information!
It's certainly an indication of some risk if they decomposed on a tiny wire or micro circuitry. Can you damp swab or clean the area where you found them without getting it wet? If they left "something" behind, it might be shorting or diverting signals. Be sure the battery is out and the power brick is not connected (and press the power on button also to discharge any charged items). Hope it works for you.
Regards,
- - Phil -
Sounds good! It'll give you a chance to inspect for any chemical damage where they died, etc.
Regards,
- - Phil -
I hope so too Phil. Thanx -
some clean electronic spray that leaves no residue may be a good idea.. I"ve never used it on micro circuits but it works miracles on large stuff.
-
lol
I was referring to the BLUE volume button (ie, NOT ON MUTE) vs ON MUTE (Orange). lol (the button that controls volume....not the sliders)
=) -
I guess that your Dv8 is different from ours. My volume control buttons are clear white - not blue and orange like my WiFi buttons that ARE blue(on) and orange (off).
My mute button is WHITE (mute off) and RED (mute on).
Maybe someone else may know what you are referring to but I can't figure it out. Can you describe or point in a drawing where these buttons to which you refer are located.
Regards,
- - Phil -
^ Mine is the same as Phil's. Have a look at this youtube video for comparison. From 1:24 mark through 1:29 mark is relevant. Is yours different than that Familyguy?
YouTube - Hp Pavilion Dv8t Quad Edition Intro‎ -
Mine is the same as Phil's and Woods3336 (i.e., white (on) and red (off). I prefer having the lights be less colorful (i.e., mostly white). Actually, I would prefer if there were no lights. I have sometimes thought about disconnecting that board entirely since I rarely use it. I usually use keyboard or on screen controls to control volume. The only control I find myself using a lot up there is the (lone) Blue wireless button, which I am glad is a different color from the rest of the buttons. I do like having a hardware switch to shut the wireless off and on.
-
No problem, Phil. It's good to get more relevant user info from a fellow dv8 owner. I think I'll wait for a steeper discount considering how infrequently I tote that monster display out of the house, but the feedback's much appreciated nonetheless.
--Dan
P.S. Tried watching FPS counts in StarCraft II again over the last few days, and it does really vary from the single digits and teens for loading screens up to 40-60+ during actual gameplay. In-game/-engine cinematics occasionally chug just a bit, but I like keeping my story developments at a relatively high resolution. The game does run just fine for me, however, though this 1.02 patch seems to be preventing me from logging in to Battle.net at the moment.
P.P.S. I've performed a few BIOS updates since receiving the desktop replacement last November, first to fix a Win 7 syncing issue with iTunes (9) and then later to make sure StarCraft II would run well (and again to keep SC II from burning up my hardware in a retracted HP update). Once more before StarCraft's retail release probably marks four updates of the firmware for me. -
I would have have waited but for a trip I'm now on.
Glad you were successful. Makes sense if you got some needed things fixed by the newer BIOS.
Regards,
- - Phil -
Hi again everyone. I took the plunge last night and pulled this beast down to the bones. I did notice numerous foreign objects - some pink looking stuff and quite a few remains from the uninvited guests, the ants - i used a tin of compressed air and gave the mobo a good cleaning. It was interesting to find that there was very little to no dust at the fan vents ( & I've not been cleaning them regularly I must admit). It wasn't very difficult to take apart following the instructions in the maintenance guide. Reassemble was actually easier, perhaps because I had, by then, a working knowledge of what goes where and the order in which the parts were to be assembled. Only the keyboard cover (the part with the capacitive touch buttons) proved challenging to reattached because the cable was short, making it difficult to grip to attach.
Well when all that was done, the problem was still persisting. No "ac source" light, & if laptop is running & u plug in to ac the pwr icon doesn't change from battery. Man talk about disappointment. So i started contemplating sending the laptop back to hp. I was just concerned that if one piece of hardware failed who knows when another will and it's still under warranty.
This morning i was still wondering if it was really worth it sending it back to hp. Got the laptop plugged it in and BAM! its working ok again. Can u believe that. This thing must have bad memories of being at hp and so self healed itself to avoid going back. I'm glad it did this now & not when i would have sent it only to have the hp techs so they didn't find anything wrong.
I just gonna keep on enjoyin this lappy. Atleast I now know how to take this beast apart and fit her back together.
Today is Independence Day in Jamaica, yeah! holiday, no work -
Congratulations on fixing the problem (apparently) and on successfully taking it apart and putting it back together.
I've only had the bottom covers off on mine to replace hard drives and re-seat the memory modules, so I'm envious of the added knowledge and skill you have gained in going much further along in the process of dismantling and reassembling it.
I hope it continues to work properly for you from now on. -
Hey,
yeah it's different. On it's blue, off it's red. Either way (white or blue) it stays on red/orange whether on or off.
-
One thing i realised that i never knew b4 is that the dv8 has two fans in it -
I think that's why elevating the legs of the laptop, like Phil stated a while back, helps with the air circulation and cooling. Personally I use a cooler with the one fan in the middle, which, by the way, turns out to be where the processor actually is (below the 6789 buttons on the underside of the mobo). The "Secondary Chassis Fan" is located close to the secondary hard drive bay. If you put your ear close to FN & windows key u'll hear the 2nd chassis fan (atleast that's what i think i'm hearing). If you put your ear close to the esc key you'll hear, what we call, "the processor fan".
This augurs well for the dv8 not being a laptop susceptible to overheating issues. -
Mine is white/blue. which version of the dv8 do u have - 1100? I've got the dv8t-1000, model NQ226AV -
When u try muting the vol via the vol icon in the system tray does the light remain constantly red? If i mute the vol via the icon the colour of the mute button changes accordingly
-
well i removed the cover to the sub speaker and was able to see what was causing all the rattling in my dv8
seems someone forgot to insert/install something at the factory so this one will be getting returned as soon as my replacement arrives
so after being royally disappointed with being shipped a problem and going through foreign technical hell!!! hp made it up to me by giving me a sweet deal on a replacement dv8
free 2 day shipping
free upgraded processor (from a i-5 520 to a i-5 540)
free targus laptop bag
free blue ray player
not bad... now i just hope my new one is defect free
video of the rattle
YouTube - hp dv8 sub rattle‎
you won't be able to hear it if yours is rattling too haha (which btw i hope yours is not)
-
isenged said: ↑Sorry, I forgot to say, I have been having the on screen volume display problem with the bass/treble. I have a pavilion dv8, recently bought, just a month old now.DavenportNice said: ↑Hello DavenportNice, how does one get to the HPToneControl to deactivate the bass/treble on screen display?Click to expand...Click to expand...
-
Sounds like you did a fresh install?
Some of the later drivers released my HP don't carry the needed components to have the bass/treble controls... they assume you still have the base drivers that came with the OEM system rather than give them to you again... therefore those who do fresh installs have issues.
I have posted 3 times a fix for it that Axel created... there may be a more current solution now, I don't know...
but Mine still work perfect from the instructions Axel Foley originally posted.
1. Go into Control Panel and uninstall HP MEDIASMART SmartMenu
2. Also, in Control Panel uninstall HP Quick Launch Buttons.
3. Go to C:\Program Files\Hewlett-Packard and delete HP MediaSmart Folder ~~NOTE: These folders may have been deleted during the Uninstall Process.~~
4. Go to C:\Program Files (x86)\Hewlett-Packard and delete HP Quick Launch Buttons Folder ~~NOTE: The Program Files (x86) is for 64 bit users. You may need to find the HP Quick Launch Buttons Folder in a different location~~
5. Reboot Computer.
6. If you have “HP Tone Control Utility v2.00 A 2009-09-28” installed, uninstall that too.
7. Reboot Computer.
8. Download HP MEDIA SMART MENU Version 2.10. Here is the direct link.
9. ~DV8 Users Skip This Step!! Download BIOS Version F.31. Here is the direct link.
10. ~DV8 Users Skip This Step!! ~Install Bios Version F.31. ~~NOTE: Computer should reboot on its own.~~
11. Install HP Quick Launch Buttons Version 6.50.16.1 link is here.
12. Reboot Computer.
13. Install HP MEDIA SMART MENU Version 2.10
14. Reboot Computer.
15. All Done - Sliders should now work. -
I'm happy for you! Sounds like you may still have an "on again-off again" problem that is currently "off". If it returns, definitely try removing stains, etc, again with a non-corrosive, non-conductive cleaner like "contact cleaner".jefnel said: ↑Well when all that was done, the problem was still persisting. No "ac source" light, & if laptop is running & u plug in to ac the pwr icon doesn't change from battery. Man talk about disappointment. So i started contemplating sending the laptop back to hp. I was just concerned that if one piece of hardware failed who knows when another will and it's still under warranty.
This morning i was still wondering if it was really worth it sending it back to hp. Got the laptop plugged it in and BAM! its working ok again. Can u believe that.Click to expand...
Glad you could take it apart and successfully get it back together. I've done it with my IBM T30 but never gone beyond where Peter described with a Dv8.
Glad you're back to enjoying your Dv8 as you should!
Happy computing!
Regards,
- - Phil -
PMorgan said: ↑I'm happy for you! Sounds like you may still have an "on again-off again" problem that is currently "off". If it returns, definitely try removing stains, etc, again with a non-corrosive, non-conductive cleaner like "contact cleaner".
Glad you could take it apart and successfully get it back together. I've done it with my IBM T30 but never gone beyond where Peter described with a Dv8.
Glad you're back to enjoying your Dv8 as you should!
Happy computing!
Regards,
- - PhilClick to expand...
Well i certainly wouldn't want to go through that again, that's for sure. -
I wouldn't wish that on youjefnel said: ↑Well i certainly wouldn't want to go through that again, that's for sure.Click to expand...
Hope it keeps working for you in any case!
Regards,
- - Phil -
After a few months of research and trials I offically became an owner of a HP Pavilion DV8T Quad Edition (with (2)320GB HD) this morning. Through the last couple of months, I've followed this Lounge in my research to purchase the most "bang for the buck" with my latest laptop purchase. I've followed the personally intriguing SSD discussion and the much debated i5 to i7 transition.
As I unpack this beastly beauty and set it in for it's initial charge, my question to you is...what advice, recommendations, warnings would you like to pass on to this eager new owner. I'm by no means a newbie to computers but while looking to retire my four year old Sager custom
spinny: ...good times) I couldn't pass up the dv8t features for its price.
So please pass on your dv8 wisdom so perhaps I'll have another four years of great times.
Thanks and take care! -
formthreemaster said: ↑So please pass on your dv8 wisdom so perhaps I'll have another four years of great times.
Click to expand...
Humm.... let me count the ways!......
Basically clean all the foo bloatware off with a program like pc decrapifier to help get started.. it will give you clues to what the software does so you can make an intelligent decision to ditch it or keep it.
Once you get everything clean... "backup your system with every major step along the way".. both with system restore and any other major backup you may have.
Clean the registry to remove traces of the bloatware programs.... ccleaner is among the safest to use.
Now update all your drivers with Justins page.
Then do any tweaks you desire..... to speed up win7 and your browser... "don't use IE"
When you get that far... many of us can direct you to some good tweaks if you don't already know them to speed up Win7.... welcome to the forum! -
Speaking of IBM T30's, I've still got one of those lying around that I never use anymore as it's now very old technology. I'm using its still very nice power supply to power an Accucel 6 battery charger. I was just considering digging up the T30 to remove and break apart its ancient (now basically useless) battery pack to try to see if I can salvage some of the 18650 Li-ion cells contained therein. (18650's are the individual Li-ion cells (usually quite high quality ones too) that are contained in various quantities inside laptop battery packs, (e.g., the DV8's battery contains 8 of them) for use with some of my LED flashlights (don't laugh, there is a whole very wide world of flashlights and related electronic paraphernalia, see e.g., CandlePowerForums - Powered by vBulletin ).
Anyway, even when a laptop battery pack no longer works well, frequently several of the internal 18650 cells are still in very good condition and can be "salvaged" with care and a good Li-ion charger.
On another subject, after all the talk about the volume control, I was playing with mine and noticed that the on screen display for mute and "unmute" seems a lot nicer now. Graphics must have been improved in one of the recent driver updates. Looks great now. -
Congrats! hope you really enjoy it as much as other owners here do.formthreemaster said: ↑After a few months of research and trials I offically became an owner of a HP Pavilion DV8T Quad Edition (with (2)320GB HD) this morning. Through the last couple of months, I've followed this Lounge in my research to purchase the most "bang for the buck" with my latest laptop purchase. I've followed the personally intriguing SSD discussion and the much debated i5 to i7 transition.
As I unpack this beastly beauty and set it in for it's initial charge, my question to you is...what advice, recommendations, warnings would you like to pass on to this eager new owner. I'm by no means a newbie to computers but while looking to retire my four year old Sager custom
spinny: ...good times) I couldn't pass up the dv8t features for its price.
So please pass on your dv8 wisdom so perhaps I'll have another four years of great times.
Click to expand...
Be sure to make those Recovery Disks (after you first start it up and shut it down once). This is a really important step before you start installing security updates (which might crash the Dv8) and your software. BTW, I wouldn't even connect it to the internet before creating the Recovery Disks!
Regards,
- - Phil -
I have one of those with a perfectly good battery that I enjoy using almost every day. It only lacks screen size and computing speed relative to my other laptops - Dv8 I-7 and my Toshiba I-5...pae77 said: ↑Speaking of IBM T30's, I've still got one of those lying around that I never use anymore as it's now very old technology.Click to expand...
If any of your T30 packs are still in good shape, Peter, I'd be interested in them if you want to sell. My T30 is only 8 years old so it's still got significant life remaining in it and a good spare battery pack would ensure that utility.
Interesting that it is the same form factor as the batteries used by Tesla to make up their battery pack. I can't help but wonder if their specifications and chemistry are the same or whether only the form factor is the same? As I recall, the Tesla's are made by 1-2-3 Systems and use a LiFeSO4 chemistry.pae77 said: ↑I was just considering digging up the T30 to remove and break apart its ancient (now basically useless) battery pack to try to see if I can salvage some of the 18650 Li-ion cells contained therein. (18650's are the individual Li-ion cells (usually quite high quality ones too) that are contained in various quantities inside laptop battery packs, (e.g., the DV8's battery contains 8 of them) for use with some of my LED flashlights (don't laugh, there is a whole very wide world of flashlights and related electronic paraphernalia, see e.g., CandlePowerForums - Powered by vBulletin ).
Anyway, even when a laptop battery pack no longer works well, frequently several of the internal 18650 cells are still in very good condition and can be "salvaged" with care and a good Li-ion charger.Click to expand...
Regards,
- - Phil -
As you probably know, there are several different specific Li-ion chemistries in use these days. Although they each have their own set of advantages and disadvantages relative to each other, they all work pretty well. Some are safer than others.
The 18650 specification refers only to the form factor, i.e., the size and shape of the individual cells. Capacity and chemistry type vary.
I haven't tested my old T30 pack (only have one, I think), but it's been sitting around for so long, I doubt it could be in good shape. I'm even wondering whether any of the individual cells in the pack may still be viable. If so, it's probably worth more to me for tne few good cells I might be able to salvage out of it then what it may be worth to you as a complete, but old, pack. I wouldn't mind selling the whole T30 though. I have a T42p and port replicator also as well as a T61p and advanced mini dock, plus various accessories such as the 2nd hard drive adapter, all of which I don't really have any use for any more, since acquiring the wonderful DV8t. I think if my DV8t went down, I would just get another one, ASAP. -
So no one has any ideas on how to fix the mute button staying on red. During bootup it's actually normal....but as soon as it gets to the start screen...it turns red.
My WiFi button is actually starting to do the same thing. 'Sometimes' when I turn it off it will be stuck on red....but a reboot usually fixes it. -
PMorgan said: ↑I have one of those with a perfectly good battery that I enjoy using almost every day. It only lacks screen size and computing speed relative to my other laptops - Dv8 I-7 and my Toshiba I-5...
If any of your T30 packs are still in good shape, Peter, I'd be interested in them if you want to sell. My T30 is only 8 years old so it's still got significant life remaining in it and a good spare battery pack would ensure that utility.Click to expand...I guess I'll keep looking for a spare T30 pack then. Thanks, Peter.pae77 said: ↑I haven't tested my old T30 pack (only have one, I think), but it's been sitting around for so long, I doubt it could be in good shape. I'm even wondering whether any of the individual cells in the pack may still be viable. If so, it's probably worth more to me for tne few good cells I might be able to salvage out of it then what it may be worth to you as a complete, but old, pack.Click to expand...
PMorgan said: ↑Interesting that it is the same form factor as the batteries used by Tesla to make up their battery pack. I can't help but wonder if their specifications and chemistry are the same or whether only the form factor is the same? As I recall, the Tesla's are made by 1-2-3 Systems and use a LiFeSO4 chemistry.Click to expand...Knowing that the form factors were the same was why I asked if you knew if the chemistries were the same. I know some chemistries differ to offer greater safety like the LiFeSO4 I referred to. I gather you aren't offering a comparison specific to the IBM and the 1-2-3 Systems' batteries' chemistries.pae77 said: ↑As you probably know, there are several different specific Li-ion chemistries in use these days. Although they each have their own set of advantages and disadvantages relative to each other, they all work pretty well. Some are safer than others.
The 18650 specification refers only to the form factor, i.e., the size and shape of the individual cells. Capacity and chemistry type vary.Click to expand...
Regards,
- - Phil -
There has been lengthy discussion to clarify what 'buttons' to which you were referring. Now that it's been clarified, my short version of advice is as follows:thefamilyguy26 said: ↑So no one has any ideas on how to fix the mute button staying on red. During bootup it's actually normal....but as soon as it gets to the start screen...it turns red.
My WiFi button is actually starting to do the same thing. 'Sometimes' when I turn it off it will be stuck on red....but a reboot usually fixes it.Click to expand...
1) uninstall HP Quick Launch Buttons software/drivers and reboot
2) run chkdsk/f and scannow and reboot
3) install latest HP Quick Launch Buttons software/drivers from:
ftp://ftp.hp.com/pub/softpaq/sp49001-49500/sp49104.exe
and reboot.
Hope it helps!
Regards,
- - Phil -
I have noticed that the fingerprint reader add-on has to be disabled in order to view google's images page in IE8. When using In-Private I have no problem or switching to Compatability mode I'm able to view. Otherwise I get the "Internet Explorer has stopped working" message.PMorgan said: ↑Am I correct in presuming that you don't currently have a fingerprint reader on your laptop and were wondering about its utility and effectiveness as implemented on the Dv8?
Regards,
- - PhilClick to expand...
Anyone else have that issue? Also no problem using FireFox. -
For those who haven't obtained a free copy of Hiren's BootCD during the last couple of months, the new version (#11.0) is out and some items including Ghost 11.5 have been dropped. If you wish to use Ghost 11.5 on the Hiren's BootCD, be sure to search for, and download Hirens BootCD v10.6 from the web.
Changes from Hiren's BootCD 10.6 to 11.0:
Softwares Dropped:
Acronis Disk Director, Acronis True Image, Active Partition Recovery, Active Password Changer, Active Undelete, DiyDataRecovery Diskpatch, GetDataBack for FAT/NTFS, HDD Regenerator, MpxPlay, NTFS Dos Pro, Norton Ghost, PC-Check, Paragon Mount Everything, Paragon Partition Manager, Prosoft Media Tools, Winsock 2 Fix for 9x
Updated softwares:
AlternateStreamView 1.15, Autoruns 10.02, BlueScreenView 1.27, CCleaner 2.34.1200, CPU-Z 1.55, ComboFix (07-08-2010), CurrPorts 1.82, Defraggler 1.21.209, Dr.Web CureIt! Antivirus (07-08-2010), G4L Ghost 4 Linux 0.34a, GPU-Z 0.4.4, GParted Partition Editor 0.6.2, HDD Scan 3.3, MBRWizard 3.0.65, Mail PassView 1.65, Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware 1.46 (07-08-2010), Mini Linux: Recovery is Possible Linux (RIPLinux 10.7) kernel 2.6.34, MyUninstaller 1.66, Offline NT Password Changer 2010-06-27, PCI 32 Sniffer 1.4 (07-08-2010), PCI and AGP info Tool (07-08-2010), ProduKey 1.42, RIPLinux 10.7), Recuva 1.38.504, SIW 2010.7.14, SeaTools for Dos: GUI 2.21, SearchMyFiles 1.50, Speccy 1.03.162, Spybot: Search & Destroy 1.6.2 (07-08-2010), SpywareBlaster 4.3 (07-08-2010), SuperAntispyware 4.41.1000 (07-08-2010), TCPView 3.02, TeamViewer 5.0.8703, TightVNC 2.0.2, Total Commander 7.55a, TrueCrypt 7.0, USBDeview 1.75, UnknownDevices 1.4.20 (07-08-2010), Unlocker 1.9.0
New added softwares:
+ Autologon 3.0: Enables you to easily configure Windows' built-in autologon mechanism, so you don't have to wait on the login screen (Windows Freeware).
+ BellaVista 1.1.0.47: Formerly BCD Editor with lots of options to configure Windows for a developer (Windows Freeware).
+ DiskDigger 0.8.3.176: Undelete and recover lost photos, videos, music, documents and other formats from your hard drive, memory cards and USB flash drives (Windows Freeware).
+ DiskView 2.4: to view graphical map of your disk, allowing you to check where a file is located or, by clicking on a cluster, seeing which file occupies it (Dos Freeware).
+ grub4dos 2010-08-04: an universal boot loader based on GNU GRUB, can boot off DOS/LINUX or via Windows boot manager/syslinux/lilo or from MBR/CD, builtin BIOS disk emulation (Linux Freeware).
+ HBCD Customizer 1.3: HBCDCustomizer.exe is a GUI tool to create custom iso images of Hiren's BootCD (Windows Freeware).
+ IE PassView 1.20: It allows you to view username and passwords saved by Internet Explorer (Windows Freeware).
+ isolinux 4.02: a boot loader for Linux/i386 that operates off ISO 9660/El Torito CD-ROMs in 'no emulation' mode (Linux Freeware).
+ MemDisk 4.02: to allow booting legacy operating systems, floppy images, hard disk images and some ISO images (Linux Freeware).
+ PasswordFox 1.20: Allows you to view the user names and passwords stored by Mozilla Firefox Web browser (Windows Freeware).
+ PLoP Boot Manager 5.0.10: a small program to boot different operating systems harddisk, floppy, CD/DVD or from USB, it can boot from an USB/CD/DVD even without BIOS support (Linux Freeware).
+ PuTTY 0.60: a free and open source terminal emulator application which can act as a client for the SSH and Telnet (Windows Freeware).
+ Remove Fake Antivirus 1.66: a tool to remove virus/malwares which disguises itself to be an antivirus and produces fake alert/warnings and urge you to purchase a useless copy of the fake antivirus (Windows Freeware).
+ ShadowCopy 1.00: Copy all your files and entire system: even if they are locked by Windows (Windows Freeware).
+ SmartSniff 1.63: Network monitoring utility that allows you to capture TCP/IP packets that pass through your network adapter (Windows Freeware).
+ SniffPass 1.11: A password monitoring tool that listens to your network, capture the passwords that pass through your network adapter, it works on POP3, IMAP4, SMTP, FTP, and HTTP protocols and recovers lost Web/FTP/Email passwords (Windows Freeware).
+ Victoria 4.46: Universal program for testing storage devices (Windows Freeware).
+ Western Digital Data Lifeguard Tools 1.21: to perform drive identification, diagnostics, and repairs on most WD drives (Windows Freeware).
+ XXClone 0.58.0: The simple way to clone a Windows disk to another disk, it makes a self-bootable clone of Windows system disk (Windows Freeware).
Regards,
- - Phil -
Hi Guys,
I have a i7 720qm dv8t with original HP setup, so nothing is touched.
My temperatures are at the time, the room temp is 20Celcius and the CPU with no load is 67Celcius and there is absolutely nothing running except this non-flash chrome website i am writing now.
neer goes down to 60... and lower.
it's been like this forever, may be, first bios was better, i don't know but I am running f24e, the latest one.
when i do stress testing on all cores, and threads, the processor goes up top 90s, and stays there, which is normal i guess, it goes up there in like 2 seconds.
my laptop has still warranty.
but, i am well capable of doing things like changing cpu etc myself.
what are your suggestions?
ic-diamond?
or are the temperatures normal at all?
has anyone opened up the laptop is it easy around to reach to the heatsink and cpu etc?
please respond,
thanks.
oz -
Affirmative.PMorgan said: ↑. . . I gather you aren't offering a comparison specific to the IBM and the 1-2-3 Systems' batteries' chemistries.
Regards,
- - PhilClick to expand...
-
Hello,ozdemirhan said: ↑Hi Guys,
I have a i7 720qm dv8t with original HP setup, so nothing is touched.
My temperatures are at the time, the room temp is 20Celcius and the CPU with no load is 67Celcius and there is absolutely nothing running except this non-flash chrome website i am writing now.
neer goes down to 60... and lower.
it's been like this forever, may be, first bios was better, i don't know but I am running f24e, the latest one.
when i do stress testing on all cores, and threads, the processor goes up top 90s, and stays there, which is normal i guess, it goes up there in like 2 seconds.
my laptop has still warranty.
but, i am well capable of doing things like changing cpu etc myself.
what are your suggestions?
ic-diamond?
or are the temperatures normal at all?
has anyone opened up the laptop is it easy around to reach to the heatsink and cpu etc?
please respond,
thanks.
ozClick to expand...
It sounds like it's running a little on the hot side, but not dangerously so, imo. Still, on my own system, I prefer to see lower idle temps. I have seen my CPU temp jump up several degrees almost instantly when certain programs are started, so I think that behavior is likely normal for these machines.
I have noticed that certain programs, some of which may operate in the background when active, cause the CPU and/or the GPU temps to become elevated in varying amounts depending on the program. For example, there is a softphone program I use (NinjaLite) that raises my CPU temps by about 3 to 5 degrees C, when active in the background. So I usually only run that application when I need it, rather than leaving it running in the background all the time, which would be my preference, if it didn't cause elevated CPU temps.
Another frequent culprit or cause of elevated temps can be certain gadgets running in the Windows Sidebar. I found that a certain CPU meter I used to use caused my CPU temps to rise by several degrees. So I no longer use that particular gadget. I was able to find another CPU meter, one that turned out to be much nicer for a multi core CPU anyway, that didn't cause my temps to go up much, if at all.
I mention these examples to illustrate some of the kinds of programs that may be causing elevated temps in your machine. My suggestion would be to use the task manager to attempt to identify any programs or processes that may be constantly active in the background and possibly using enough CPU cycles to cause or partially be responsible for some of the elevated temps you are seeing. I would do this by opening the task manager, click on the "Processes" tab, then click on the "CPU" field to sort the list by CPU activity. You should then see "System Idle Process" at the top of the list using most of your CPU cycles, which is entirely normal. But the next few items may give you some clues as to whether there is something operating in the background that might be unnecessarily adding to the CPU load and causing elevated temps. That's how I discovered the CPU meter and Softphone were likely culprits to be causing elevated temps on my machine, and it was confirmed when the temps went down after I terminated those processes by shutting down the respective applications.
Other possible causes could be some anti malware program running endless scans in the background, or a disk defrag program doing lengthy defragmenting in the background, etc., etc.
It's also possible there is some dust in the fan(s) or otherwise obstructing the cooling system.
Another thing that can cause elevated CPU/GPU temps is your GPU clock. There are three modes that the GPU clock operates at, each with a different clock speed. Assuming you haven't adjusted overclock settings on your GPU, the lowest speed which you should be in most of the time is 135 MHz (Standard 2D mode). Low Power 3D normally runs at 405 MHz and Performance 3D, (the highest mode) runs at 500 MHz GPU clock speed. Sometimes the display driver which controls these settings can get "stuck" at one of the higher up clocked settings. This usually will also cause elevated temps if it is occurring. My suggestion here is to update your display driver to the latest version which seems to upclock and downclock very reliably, ime, on the DV8. That driver is nvidia forceware version 258.96 available from nvidia's site or through the DV8 driver page on this site.
If you want to check what many of your machine's sensors are reporting in realtime, there is a free program called SIW (System Information for Windows, which is a very useful app to have installed in any case as you will see if you try it) that will show this information. Install SIW, open the app, open the "Sensors" section which can be found under the "Hardware" section. This will give you an easy way to see what the various temperature sensors are reporting. There is also a "video" section that can show the GPU core clock speed, but I've found that just opening it tends to kick the clock speed up to the max 500 MHz setting, so it is of limited utility for monitoring. I use an app called Everest (not freeware) for realtime monitoring of the GPU clock speed, among other things.
That's all I can think of right now. Perhaps some other users will have some additional suggestions. -
Thanks PAE, you have written a good deal of information.
the gpu is idling 36-40celcius, which is COOOOOOLDDDD.
there seems to be no programs in the background,
my hp tx2 died like this, so i don't want the same thing to happen to me again.
i know that it is not dangerous, but i want lower temps, less noise etc etc.
i also did a clean install, didn't solve my problem
there are no sidebar programs, and etc.
what are your cpu temps at idle?
i really don't want to send to repair, they will say oh it is ok,
but i really think it is not.
it should be 10 degrees lower i guess, my x9100 at 1.2 volts idles at 37 on asus g51vx, which consumes 40w, so i don't get it.
*HP dv8 Owners Lounge*
Discussion in 'HP' started by rageman, Oct 19, 2009.