The Definitive DV6z Llano Overclock and Optimization Guide

Any other suggestion for a caddy for replacement of the DVD Drive with a hard drive, I haven't been able to find another one of the link you posted. I know you said there are many available but I want to make sure I get the right hardware.

 

HT in the guide you mention stock clocks for the 6750m are 650/800 while I believe they are actually 600/800. Thanks for making this. Using your guide I was able to successfully overclock both the cpu and gpu. I also want to mention that the current 12.1 official release drivers work overclocking the gpu so you may want to update the link from the old 12.1a drivers. Finally you may want to mention to set msi kombustor to high performance in the switchable graphics menu before running the test if someone besides me happens to wonder why its only stressing the 6620g.

 

ok after about 10 minutes prime, and 30-45 minutes bf3 with cpu at 3.5ghz and 1.05 volts, I ran solid never going over81, mostly 80.

I could run at 1600x900 @ default high settings, and it looked beautiful at 27-37 fps.

I have created the user config file as wingnut suggested, for bf3.
I have disable dual graphics and have computer on high performance with switchable graphics set to high performance for bf3.

81c was max temp for both cpu and dgpu and again timings for dgpu are 770 970.

did not test 1920x1080 much, but 1600x900 at high settings was great.

My battery may only last 2 hours, but this machine flies, and I dont think I have to fear killing it staying under 85c yes?

 

ok what is up with this?

when i look at cpu-z it says 100 mhz bus speed but when i validate, it says 200.

on top of that it says rejected at the top???

trust me, I feel the performance of 3500 mhz, and it may go further, i havent tried.

what is going on with cpu-z?

 

< 85C is ok. However, don't use CPU-Z, use HWInfo64. Open HWInfo64 and watch the CPU speed. It may throttle the speeds to keep temperature low. 3.5GHz is attainable with proper cooling and voltage, but 1.05V seems a bit low. Most of us can't reach 2.5GHz with that voltage.

 

This guide has been very helpful. I want to thank HTWingNut for this detailed guide.

I have been tinkering around with the GPU and followed the overclocking GPU guide. To make things short I have overclocked my GPU upto 715/900 (stable). Any higher than those values would cause my PC to freeze up. I don't understand how others are able to go higher. Can anybody explain it me?

And I also noticed that in GPU-Z it displays that my GPU clock and Memory Clock are 715/900 respectively but on the default setting it shows 715/243 only. I also noticed that my Memory clock is maxed at 243 MHz in HWinfo64. Is that right? or is something wrong with those speeds?



EDIT:

My current specs are:
A8-3510mx BIOSv f.21 Catalyst 12.1a
CPU: P0= 2.2GHz B0= 2.6 GHz
RAM: 8GB (2x4 GB 1333 C9)
GPU: 6750m 720/900

 

One thing I'm not clear about is whether the modded bioses can be used to lock in the CPU overclocks. This may seem like a stupid question, but I'm a complete newbie to overclocking!

The reason I ask is that I am a Linux user and it would be useful for me to not have to use software for the CPU overclock.

Also, are the bioses useable for any flavour of DV6Z? I have a 6b07-sa.

 

I don't think a locked in over clock for a laptop would be a good idea anyways. I have an A6-3400 boosted with K10Stat and while the boost is great, it requires 2 variables to take in consideration.

1st is do you have a cooling pad? Laptops are prone to failure due to heat and most people seem to care less. I run a dual fan cooling pad and under over clocked settings it has never exceeded 65c. Heat wears computers down over time. The higher you have it run all the time, the less likely it will survive 2+ years.

2nd is you do not want to over clock on your battery. I have a gaming profile and a battery profile. Gaming is boosted with lowered voltages and battery is stock speeds with lowered voltages. Over clocking while running only on your battery will just kill its capacity quickly from constantly charging when you drain it.

Since I use my laptop on my desk half the time with a 19'' monitor as the primary, I also take my battery out. Leaving your battery in 24/7 over charging its butt off is why people that have a 2 year old computer have a dead battery. I leave mine on the side and when I need it, I pop it in, drain it when I can, recharge it and leave it out. Last time I used the battery was a week ago, but not everyone is the same.

Those who have only 1 stick of ram, I suggest adding a 2nd stick of equivalent ram. I went from 4gb ddr3 to 8gb and the gaming performance went higher. It costs a simple $25 from bestbuy and gives me the ability to play games like skyrim v on high using the 6520g and 2.3ghz max/ 2.7ghz boost.

Heat = dead computer, everyone needs to see that 70c+ is asking for trouble in the long run.

 

Definitely consider a cooling stand if you want to really crank up your CPU speed. However, you can overclock on battery, if your profile is set up appropriately, and not pushing it too far. That being said, I've run for a couple hours playing BF3 on battery with no issues 2.4GHz 1.15V and GPU at 740/880. I can run 2.4GHz at <75C, usually <70C, so no problem there. Just monitor temps and you'll be fine.

There's nothing wrong with popping your battery out, but it's also not necessary. Batteries lose charge over time whether you use them or not, and you gain little by removing them. After three years' time a battery will have lost significant charge whether it's cared for or just left in the machine. Discharging the battery obviously has an effect on the battery life, but this is why we have a laptop, right? To use on battery. I wouldn't worry much about it. A replacement costs $40.

I also think the benefits of leaving it installed is better than removing it. If nothing else it is its own backup power supply. Accidentally yank the cord and all is lost. Power goes out, all is lost. Just note that recommended storage for battery is discharging to 40% (as advisable for storage) and stored in a cool place. The charging technology these days is pretty good, so less to worry about. If it's seeing direct heat from the system then it's a poor design, but I don't see that much any more.

As suggested, go with two sticks of RAM especially if you game with the integrated GPU. See my benchmarks: AMD Llano 6620G Benchmarked with various RAM configurations

 

I noticed they're sold out as well. I'll see if I can find something. If we have more people chime in as to what they bought, it would be good. eBay has similar caddy's just make sure it has SATA inside for the HDD and outside to connect to the optical drive port, accommodates 9.5mm hard drives, and it's 12.5 or 12.7mm height.

Good points overall. Will correct GPU speed, not sure why I had 650MHz.

I plan on adding a quick blurb on switchable graphics since some people seem to be a little confused about how it works. It's not a perfect system, but it seems to work for me.

That is odd. First, make sure you have PowerPlay turned on. You can find it in the Control Center under "Power". That was a mistake I made when testing the IGP. I didn't realize it would resort to the slowest GPU speed instead of fastest. Also note that not all GPU's are created equal. Sometimes you just get a dud and can't overclock nearly as well as others. That happens to me more often than not.

My default settings show my IGP as 100MHz / 81MHz. But "GPU Clock" shows 740/880 where I have it clocked.

The modded BIOS I linked to in the guide has the GPU set at 740MHz GPU and 880MHz vRAM.

We have not confirmed if the BIOS is useable for anything but 6100 series DV6z. Hoping someone will be adventurous and let us know how it works out for them.

My thought? It's compatible, and if it wasn't, it wouldn't allow it to flash. But attempt at your own risk.

 

Mine shows at 100/40.5. I really dont know whats going on. I have power play enabled and currently on high performance in power settings. It's still showing 243Mhz on Memory clock. Any other ideas?

 

Just installed a corsair GT 120gb ssd in place of the hard drive that came with mine and it worked perfect.

 

This may sound stupid but how do I tell when the 6750 is working or if it is working. I am getting a windows index score of 6.3 for the graphics and when I launch MSI afterburner it doesn't seem to show any work on the 6570's part

 

Do you get a GPU1 in Afterburner? If not then you need to turn off ULPS. See here: http://forum.notebookreview.com/hp-...overclock-optimization-guide.html#disableulps

Alternatively you can "prime" your 6750m by setting an app like GPU-z to using the dedicated card, then start up MSI Afterburner.

<param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ttb5qbT0kYQ?version=3&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ttb5qbT0kYQ?version=3&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width='480' height="360" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed>

 

Yeah that was it!!!! Thanks

 

Finally got my stable OC for dGPU 715/900!

Played assassin's creed brotherhood at 2.2 MHz with dGPU 715/900 Dual Grahpics disabled.

@1366 x 768 with all settings at max and post effects. I get a max temp of 81C for cpu and 74C for dGPU. FPS was at 57-60.

@highest res other settings left @ default, I got a max temp of 86C and dGPU 81C.

 

has anyone found a verified working wifi bluetooth combo adapter that doesnt require whitelist bios?

and if it requires cable,, which one?

 

Have you checked everything that's listed in the HP manual, and/or contacted HP directly?

Am I reading your question correctly? I am assuming that you're wanting this using stock BIOS.

 

yes, essentially a stock bios, i am using the bios that only mods dgpu, but does not remove the whitelist.

 

From the manual:

All dv6:

Atheros 9485GN 802.11b/g/n 1×1 WiFi and 3012 Bluetooth 4.0 Combo Adapter 655795-001

Broadcom 4313 802.11b/g/n 1×1 WiFi and 2070 Bluetooth 2.1+EDR Combo
adapter (BT3.0+HS ready)
600370-001

Broadcom 4313GN 802.11b/g/n 1×1 WiFi and 20702 Bluetooth 4.0 Combo
Adapter
657325-001

Ralink RT3090BC4 802.11b/g/n 1×1 WiFi and Bluetooth 2.1+EDR Combo Adapter
(BT3.0+HS ready)
630705-001


Only dv6 w/ AMD

Atheros AR8002WB-1NGB 802.11b/g/n 1×1 WiFi and Bluetooth 2.1+EDR Combo
Adapter (BT3.0+HS ready)
593127-001

Realtek 8188BC8 802.11a/b/g/n 2×2 WiFi and Bluetooth 3.0+HS Combo Adapter 602993-001

However, I have read posts that say that these HP part numbers don't always coincide with the right part, but you can always check with HP to verify, and/or look for these parts from third-party distributors on Amazon, eBay, Google Shopping, etc. There's no substitute for doing your own homework...and bringing your findings back to the group once you succeed.

That's how I found that the Killer N 1102 would work by dropping the whitelist check. I did my research, paid my money, and took my chances. That's how the Killer N 1102 got into the optimization guide.

Update: I just searched all the HP part numbers on eBay and found every one except the first listed.

 

in the manual it also lists the bluetooth cable as only being for adapters with intel processors on board.

So I am hoping somebody has done this and can report.

but thanks for your help tho..

i am prob going to try
Broadcom 4313GN
and see what does.

 

I replaced my stock HP Broadcom wifi adapter with an Intel 6230 and even with whitelist removed it doesn't like the bluetooth. Seems best luck with adapters with no bluetooth.

 

So, if you don't have an Intel processor, it's logical to assume that you don't need the antenna, since no antenna is listed for the AMD. Note that pictures of the cards listed (all DV6Z compatible) only have two antenna clips, and that the DV6Z has two antennas.

Since nobody (from my best recollection) has reported a stock-compatible AMD wifi with BT upgrade yet, I don't think it's a fair generalization to say that, based upon an unauthorized Intel-based w/bluetooth situation, that the DV6Z doesn't like bluetooth. It certainly doesn't like Intel bluetooth, based upon HT's and others' experience.

Everyone's primary goal for the wifi update is to gain dual-banding, which was definitely my primary goal, and the reason behnd my particular choice of wifi cards. Had they offered a BigFoot with BT, I would have snapped it up, but they didn't, so I opted for the BT button...which works fine (and also doesn't require an antenna!)

After much research, the 2x2 w/ BT card listed in AMD-compatible upgrades doesn't appear to really be a 2x2 card, or HP listed the wrong part number, and I have found no resolution to that. Unfortunately, that would be the only stock option that would have granted all three wishes.

 

So i am sad to report that the a8 3530mx purchased from sms memory off of amazon or ebay, is indeed a sham.

After a bit more research, everyone seems to have this same problem when purchased from this dealer.

only known dealer of 3530mxs in the wild, not prefab machines.

regardless the only performance gain is from the memory going up to 1600mhz.

the overall problem is that the cpu does not go above 1700 mhz. If it does, it just lowers the bus speed accordingly to equal 1700 mhz.

Fortunately, many users have been able to get a refund out of SMS, so I am attempting the same. And i almost sold my 3500 too, whew.

Though I thought I was overclocking, I wasnt. I will be going back to the a8 3500 this week and will recompare benchmarks.

poop

 

Hello,
I'm building on of this systems at HP store but i have a few questions, my cpu options are:
AMD Quad-Core A6-3420M Accelerated Processor (2.4GHz/1.5GHz, 4MB L2 Cache)
AMD Quad-Core A6-3430MX Accelerated Processor (2.4GHz/1.7GHz, 4MB L2 Cache)
AMD Quad-Core A8-3520M Accelerated Processor (2.5GHz/1.6GHz, 4MB L2 Cache)
AMD Quad-Core A8-3550MX Accelerated Processor (2.7GHz/2.0GHz, 4MB L2 Cache)

Does it worth to pay 20$ for the 3430mx or +50/70 for the 3520/3550MX?
And the ATI HD 7690M GDDR5 for more 75$, is this a good card? Worth the money?

Regards

 

If you are going to game get the 6750m (previous gen) or 7690m. Well worth it.

If you want best integrated GPU performance get the MX CPU because it comes with the fastest IGP (6620G) and can support 1600MHz. The "M" class CPU's have a slightly slower clocked IGP (6520G) and only suports up to 1333MHz DDR3.

 

So, I would suggest 3550mx for quad core, 6620g and 1600mhz ram
(I dont think the igpu is that important, since you have dgpu)
Not to mention the 3550mxs come from new supply that went very succesful so even better chances you have a highly overclockable cpu.

the 7690 over 6750 for many reasons. But mainly because 22nm. from 40nm I believe. Anyways, should use much less power for bang, be overclockable and give better performance, as well as be current with whatever new features that are now staples of the 7xxx series. Sorry dont know them, but google.

If you plan on gaming, like BF3, the 3550mx will come in handy for both ram and quad core, and while I am happy with the graphics from 6750 for this, (i have 3500m and 6750) I could be happier, and where I am at,, every little bit of extra performance makes a difference, so I am sure those are worthwhile upgrades for you.

 

And I hate to correct Wingnut, (99.9% accuracy rate ), but, a lone M represents a normal apu, while MX denoted unlocked multiplier and increased ram capabilites. (HP Motherboards dont support str8 ocing multiplier style i know)

Meaning M or X has nothing to do with IGP.

All A4s are dual core with 6480g
All A6s are quad core with 6520g
All A8s are quad core with 6620g

Decide if more cores or more speed, but now that I think about it, I suggest the 3510mx if much cheaper, as can support higher ram and is still better than the 3500m and can still be overclocked and is probably cheaper.

But if with 30 bucks Id go for the 3550mx over 3510mx.

Even if you dont go MX, I did appreciate my gskill 1600mhz ram 999 24 did default to 1333 at 777 (?).

so, think about all that and have fun making up your mind

I would also like to suggest a matte screen and 1920x1080,, you may not care though, but is my favorite upgrade (aside from SSD which I consider a staple) on this laptop.

 

You're right, I screwed it up. A8's get 6620G, A6's get 6520G, didn't mention A4.

Although users are able to change multiplier to overclock their "M" models, just look at the Asus K53TA thread with A6-3400M. Perhaps limited to whatever the max boost multiplier is though. The issue with the 3510MX is the voltage. It hampers what I can achieve for top speed, 1.2625V. Now with temperatures under control, I could probably easily exceed 3.2GHz with a cooler. But limited to 2.9GHz because of voltage.

You're lucky your DDR3 1600 runs at 777. I was hoping for something like that, but mine is at 999. In any case the CAS doesn't seem to have any appreciable performance benefit over clock speed.

 

[/QUOTE]

Although users are able to change multiplier to overclock their "M" models, just look at the Asus K53TA thread with A6-3400M. Perhaps limited to whatever the max boost multiplier is though. The issue with the 3510MX is the voltage. It hampers what I can achieve for top speed, 1.2625V. Now with temperatures under control, I could probably easily exceed 3.2GHz with a cooler. But limited to 2.9GHz because of voltage.

You're lucky your DDR3 1600 runs at 777. I was hoping for something like that, but mine is at 999. In any case the CAS doesn't seem to have any appreciable performance benefit over clock speed.[/QUOTE]

To Wingnut

Yea, I know we overclock now with M models but for some reason i thought it was an enhanced version like the A8-3870k (isnt there something special, havent really looked into it.) (kinda like Black edition phenoms right?)

To both

in addition, I screwed up referring the 7690

I assumed it was the legit 7xxx series but apparently it isnt

AMD Radeon HD 7690M - Notebookcheck.net Tech

still based off 40nm and has 6xxx style insides.. just a rebrand.

I would not spend additional $75 for this at all.

to prior guy
Would you be willing to tell me the most you would spend and I would tell you what i would get.

 

Well it's spend the $75 and get a dedicated GPU or just get the IGP. Spend the $75. Check out this overclock with the 7690m 900 / 1100

http://forum.notebookreview.com/gam...adeon-hd-7690m-info-please-6.html#post8295391

 

oh, i thought he meant versus 6750m

 

I figured that's what you meant. Just so he's clear not to just get it without the dedicated GPU!

 

H203,

This is no big deal, but since you you found something to correct for HT, I will correct something for you H2.

Just for the record, I believe the 7000 series uses 28nm packaging technology not 22nm. That is aside from the fact that some 7000 cards are just rebranded 6000 cards with maybe higher clock/memory. The new AMD flagship card, the 7970 released few weeks ago uses 28nm. So at least in theory 7000 series should be using 28nm. In practice, manufactures take the shortest path to make money.

 

you are right, i said 22nm mistakenly is 28nm.

I think anything 7xxx with 40nm is a misleading rebrand and dont appreciate it.

 

Newegg.com - Refurbished: Acer Aspire AS8943G-6611 Refurbished Notebook Intel Core i7 720QM(1.60GHz) 18.4" 4GB Memory DDR3 1066 500GB HDD 5400rpm BD Combo ATI Mobility Radeon HD 5850

wow dude should buy this before its sold.

Id happily sell my beefed up 6135dx for that.

 

Just added this corsair vengeance Ram. Installed no issues and detected the proper speed Newegg.com - CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 204-Pin DDR3 SO-DIMM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Laptop Memory Model CMSX8GX3M2A1600C9

 

Awesome. Can you confirm CAS with CPU-Z or HWinfo64? It says CAS 9 but others have indicated some actually run at CAS 7.

 

Good to see more 1600 RAM options that work with Llano out of the box.

 

I have tried using Kingston HyperX 1600 ram in my 6b07-sa , but it doesn't work for me. It works at 1333 with CL8 timings, but it does not auto detect and work at 1600 CL9. Maybe it's because I have a A6 processor rather than an A8?

Maybe an unlocked bios would help, but there is no extant 6bxx unlocked bios, and I don't want to be a guinea pig!

 

If it's an A6 "M" then fastest it will run is 1333MHz.

 

Sorry, I should have specified - it's an MX, the 3410mx

 

I don't think an unlocked BIOS would help because at least so far there is no way to tune the RAM timings. And unless you plan on using the IGP for gaming, there's little to no improvement.

 

Hi,

I also have A6-3410MX and PnP HyperX RAM but in HP 6465b. In my laptop it is working at 1333 CL8. I think it is problem with RAM than BIOS. Unfortunatelly in my country I can't so easy get other 1600Mhz RAM to check it.

 

Yeah RAM has been hit or miss. See my guide for successful 1600MHz modules.

 

I have a question for you, how can i set Kombustor to use my 6750m instead of my 6620g? Thanks.

 

When you are in Kombustor, under the big "GPU BURN-IN" button there is a pull down box 3D API. Choose DX9, DX10, or DX11

Also ensure that your "high performance" is chosen for MSI Kombustor in your switchable graphics.

 

Ive done both of those things but it still shows that im using the 6620g instead unless it actually is using the 6750m and its just not showing up as that...

 

Run Kombustor and open up HWinfo. Does your 6750m show up on HWinfo?

 

No but it shows 2 6620g's...??? What the..?

EDIT*** O wait in the system summary it shows the 2 6620's but in the normal window under video adapters it shows up.