Lenovo Y50 Owners and Information Thread

is the yellow issue only present in the 4k display or also the 1080p one?

 

I have another unit today and plan on making custom ICC profiles to fix the problem. Hopefully it will work but I'm only 50% optimistic right now. I'll need some testers but I'll make another thread for it when I'm ready(more like if I'm ready). Hopefully can get things started this weekend.

Yes, 4k version only

 

Many talk about a yellow issue but I don't have any color issues with mine at all and I'm in photoshop all day long.

 

Can you please share your screen model and icc profile?

 

this is still bs

1. you are running iGP for at least 70% of the time and it's intel that's locking down the refresh rate. nvidia has basically nothing to do with this

2. making sure it runs smoothly since 2gb 860M has limited performance? toshiba's L50T has a m265x which is even worse than a 750m, if that can run at 60hz without issues, I don't see any reason why 860m can't

again, this may tell us that they know there are software caps on certain things, but blaming it on the hardware is just hilarious

 

I guess I haven't been following the screen issues closely enough, but does this mean there are some Y50s with screens that aren't garbage? Are these AOU/AUO used on FHD or UHD Y50s?

 

Hey guys, I need help from someone who has managed to save a custom ICC colour profile on their machine!
I downloaded a calibrated ICC profile for the AUO36ED screen from a Notebookcheck review for the 2013 Toshiba P50-A-11L, which uses the exact same screen (link: Review Toshiba Satellite P50-A-11L Notebook - NotebookCheck.net Reviews). I then went to my colour management settings, loaded the profile, set it to default, clicked "Change System Defaults", set it to default everywhere there too, and made sure "Use Windows Display Calibration" was checked off in both the regular and "System Defaults" windows. What's fantastic is that the colour indeed turned a lot more accurate! In particular, it really lost its blue tinge and reds and greens started popping more than they used to.

The only problem is, the settings are reset whenever I restart my machine! Well, not exactly: they are still saved exactly as I had them when I re-open colour management, but I have to click "Reload Current Calibrations" every time to get the panel to actually convert. When I log in, the panel starts with the blue-tinged default colour profile, then automatically switches to my custom ICC profile for a second, and then switches back to the blue-tinged default one until I "reload current calibrations"! What the hell? Has anyone else had this problem before, and can anyone help me out? Having to go to Colour Management every time I log in is super annoying.

 

*Edit: Nevermind, found out a few minutes later.

Would still like to try and fix my yellows though. Monitor is on the 4k Touch, SDC4852

 

WOOHOO! I figured it out guys! First I tried selectively disabling running services in msconfig but had the same problem as before. So then I tried selectively disabling startup processes and the first one I tried worked! For anyone else who may have this problem, the culprit is Lenovo OneKey Theatre, which is used to change video mode from Standard to Cinema or Photo. Just go to Task Manager->Startup and disable Lenovo OneKey Theatre from launching automatically whenever you restart. Now I have nice, calibrated colours and I don't have to keep re-selecting them.

 

Guys... I need help REALLY bad... I bought the Lenovo Y50 Touch and on my first day it worked completely fine. Then the next day I installed new RAM because I got the 8GB configuration... like ten-fifteen minutes after installing it, the laptop shut off completely in the middle of something and wouldn't turn back on AT ALL. It won't turn on whatsoever, I took the bottom casing off and tried to drain the power in the battery and do all of that stuff but it didn't do anything, the only difference between when it first shut off is now when I press the power button it stays lit for five seconds then turns off.

The laptop screen doesn't do anything, no fans come on, nothing. I don't think I fried the mother board because I don't understand how I would have. I think it was either from static electricity or maybe flakey wiring in the laptop, the soldering, etc... Can someone please help??? I can't find anybody else with this issue on this laptop on the internet at all...

 

is it the link where they talk about the display?

 

If anyone 4k model owners want to help find a solution to the yellows on the 4k display, please see this thread: http://forum.notebookreview.com/ide...hd-screen-calibration-thread.html#post9730744

 

How are the yellows with the new profile? What about at low brightness settings? For reference you can look at a few pictures of the simpsons because I find its really easy to tell if colours are off when looking at that tint of yellow. I would do it myself but I already returned the laptop...would probably rebuy it if colours are nice now.

 

Yeah, it's the one marked ICC File (X-Rite i1Pro 2). Here is a direct link to the file: link

After installing the colour profile I also lowered my colour brightness by 1 step and increased saturation by 20 steps or so. The effects were extremely subtle but slightly boosted "pop" for me without really ruining colour accuracy at all (considering installing colour profiles configured on other screens is never 100% accurate anyways).

@tostoo: I have the FHD Touch AUO36ED panel, which doesn't have any problems with yellow whatsoever. The Simpsons look great! It does however have lower colour gamut and much worse vertical viewing angles than the 4K panel. Thankfully I was at least able to fix blue tint and general colour inaccuracy on my screen by finding the compatible ICC profile. Interestingly, Notebookcheck lists the black level as 0.34 cd/m2 and contrast as 556:1 for the panel, both of which are leagues better than the values for the Chi-Mei panel, which has absolutely awful black value and only ~200:1 contrast. sRGB coverage is listed as 65.86%, which isn't amazing but is also a lot better than the ~50% listed for the Chi-Mei panel in Notebookcheck's Y50 review. Vertical viewing angles are indeed atrocious for both panels so if that's really important to you it is a definite deal-breaker. But on the whole it seems that while the CMN panel is legitimately atrocious, the AUO36ED panel is just an average TN panel. Maybe even slightly above average. Subjectively, after installing the colour-calibrated ICC profile and tweaking Intel's settings just a bit, I have a pretty favourable impression of it again.

 

@tylerg1408 have you tried reusing the original ram?

 

Sure just tell me how to get it...lol

 

Really hope you already tried putting the old RAM back in right?

 

Re installed windows to Windows 8.1 Pro, latest energy manager, tried all modes possible...still have that annoying clicking sound from that big fan. It's spinning a little bit in a pulsating manner. Every clicking sound it'a an impulse of electricity to the fan. Between the clicks(aprox 1 second apart) the fan slows down. It's so annoying.....

 

I'd like to know this as well.

 

For the model number, use HWinfo(download) and look in the left tab for the monitor option.

The color profile is located in C:\Windows\System32\spool\drivers\color
You can find out what file is being used by opening Color Management and seeing which one is set to default(file name is on the right).

Thanks!

 

Try removing your newly installed RAM stick. If it boots normally return the RAM for replacement or refund.

 

well lowering colour brightness did nothing for me but increasing hue to 15 and saturation to 30 seems to make things pop more. Im using the AUO36ED Matte version. About the colour management part, did u set anything in the all profiles tab? and in the advanced tab, did u only change the first two options which is the windows colour system defaults?

 

I also have the exact same problem. Can someone who's comfortable with opening the laptop up please check to see if maybe the fan has like an extra little bit from manufacturing or something. I was thinking that I got some stuff in the fan or something. I really hope its not damaging anything in any way

 

Yes I put the old RAM back in right as soon as it happened. Could the new RAM have killed my laptop somehow? Is that even possible?

 

Put back in its original RAM but it still did nothing

 

I did put the old RAM back in but it still did nothing

 

Would suggest sending it into Lenovo for repair - sounds like something got fried.

 

Ok, I'm using the glossy Touch AUO36ED so the results might be a bit different. But if you correctly set the ICC profile, the change should be extremely obvious. First you have to add the profile in the All Profiles tab, if I remember correctly, and then you have to click "Set Default" for it in the previous tab. In the advanced tab you have to change colour type to the ICC one instead of RGB and select the poper ICC profile above that. Then do the same in the "Windows Defaults" window, which is accessed through the advanced tab and looks almost entirely the same. Again, the change should be super, super obvious so if you don't see a colour change you haven't set the profile correctly.

 

Do you think the RAM did it? I'm worried about putting it back in when I get it back repaired. Should I return the RAM and get a new set?

 

I'd say better safe than sorry - if you send it into Lenovo for repair you're going to have to wait on it, so might as well get a replacement set of RAM.

 

Hey, just returned the Y50 FHD Touch to Best Buy (unopened) and picked up the UHD Y50 Touch from the MS Store. WOW! It's waaay better. I don't care about the yellow issue or the 48 Hz issue. This screen looks way better (IPS I guess...).

ALSO...I haven't seen a comparison of the Synaptics vs. Elan touchpads. My original Y50 FHD Touch came w/ the Synaptics touchpad. I had to return it due to a dead pixel, so I got the new one in the mail which I didn't open.

My Y50 UHD Touch has the Elan touchpad.

All I can say is that the Elan is MUCH better than the Synaptics! I used to have to worry about light touches (even after adjusting the sensitivity) moving the cursor, and the Synaptics palm detect didn't always detect my palms. The Elan has been very smooth and feels very much like the touchpad on my Razer Edge and my MacBook Air. Only complaint is that the shift keys are not very wide, so I'm sometimes missing them or hitting other keys.

Anyway... I have THREE questions:

1) ADP warranty - do you guys recommend Microsoft Complete ($299.99) or Lenovo Onsite ADP ($215.00)? Anyone have experiences with them? I've had experiences w/ Thinkpad repairs (which have been great), but they get repaired out of Flextronics in Memphis, TN. I think Ideapad/consumer Lenovo products go to Texas....

2) Is there supposed to be a Window 8.1 // Build 9600 in the bottom right of the screen? My system is activated, so I'm not sure why the watermark is appearing.... I know there are workarounds, but I'm not sure why it's even appearing in the first place. [Edit...it disappeared after I changed the wallpaper to a different one and then back again...must be a first time boot thing]

3) Is there any sort of external silicon/TPU case for this unit that snaps around it to protect it from scratches? Something that stays on...like the item here:

http://www.speckproducts.com/macbook-cases/smartshell-for-macbook-air.html

 

My Y50 has the same problem. It only starts when I switch to power save mode and the CPU workload is at 0% and 0.75 GHz. Power saving is very important since I have the 4k version and it runs only about 3 hours from battery. This noise is very annoying and the only fix is a bit workload. If there is no other solution I have to return it and order the same again.

 

Agree with you on the Elan touchpad. I like it a lot better than the Synaptics one. It's not MBP but it's good enough. The only improvement is if they used a lower friction surface and it would be perfect.

The Microsoft Complete should be $199 not $299. It's a very good deal since it covers accidental damage. It's also a stagnant price and not dependent on what your laptop costs so you could buy it for The Razer Blade and it would be a steal. I would trust Microsoft or Squaretrade over Lenovo. I haven't personally experienced Lenovo but my experience is Taiwanese companies typically give people a hard time with warranties. Many Asian countries offer little or no warranty on anything(at least that's what I've seen in the past - it might be different now) so it's something they are not used to nor good at.

 

I just recently had a dpc_watchdog_violation error and it went bsod. Is this a problem with 8.1 or the y50 itself?

 

Most likely with a driver - when you get this error, it will tell you the file that caused it (usually .sys or .dll file). Some of the more likely things that can cause it - bad nvidia driver, anti-virus program, recently installed driver/driver update of some sort.

 

is there a way to check if all drivers are updated? i dont have any anti-virus programs, my nvidia driver is the latest 340 beta one. mine didnt specify whether it is .sys or .dll file.

 

you could download nvidia center or however is called and set it to check updates daily, subscribe to email notifications on nvidia.com (of course specify your gfx card)

or there was this program that checked if all the drivers are updated, but i can't remember it's name, sadly :/

 

i think u are referring to geforce experience then yes, my driver for the gpu is the latest. Yeah i heard of this program as well but im not sure which :/

 

Thanks for your thoughts! I actually got the MS plan for 3 years which was $299 (there's a 2 year plan for $199). Only gripe now is that it doesn't seem like I can use the trackpad and hit keys on the keyboard at the same time. Anyone else with this problem? Is it only w/ the Elan touchpad? I can't run and aim/shoot in many FPS which makes the internal trackpad useless for gaming....


EDIT: Found the solution, thanks to this post:

http://www.ign.com/boards/threads/cant-move-cursor-while-typing.452613399/

Basically, change the following key from 1 to 0 in the "HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Elantech\SmartPad" hive so that it has the following value and then restart your computer to notice the change:


"DisableWhenType_Enable"=dword:00000000

 

I posted earlier in this thread about this issue. When I opened it up, the big fan would turn on for split seconds at a time and make that clicking noise every time it started up even though it should be sitting still.

 

Update on my Y50 UHD:

Played my first real demanding game today, Arma III. Very, very impressed by the results. At 1080p on high settings with 4x AAA I get the maximum 48 fps steady. This is on par with mid-high end desktop graphics. Heat is steady 60-63 C. I am considering cranking the settings up a it to see how much the machine can handle. I think it could possibly run the game on high at 1440p.

Once I get my cooling pad I am going to try and overclock the 860M and see exactly what I can get out of this laptop.

 

Hi Y50 owners,

I'm thinking of buying the FHD model and would appreciate some help/advice.

1) I was wondering about the 512GB SSD that comes with the 59421863 model ($1,449 atm). I saw a comment here about it being a Samsung SSD (possibly a Samsung 830- see here and here for reference). A rep just told me though that it's actually Intel. When I asked which model she referred me here, but there was no 512GB SSD listed there, so I asked again and she reffered me here. This is apparently a ThinkPad 512GB SSD and there's no brand name mentioned there, but when I asked about it she specifically and quite confidently said this is Intel and that this model is also installed in the Y50 series system. Either way though, it seems I'll be better off (performance-wise) just buying the HDD model and purchasing a Samsung Evo/Pro 840 SSD and just install that, right?

2) Also about the back vents: I see from comments of owners that heat issues are not a very big deal with these systemsm, but I was wondering still, why are the back vents sealed? are they just for style? wouldn't it be better off having them opened for, you know, venting? I was even thinking maybe it might be a good idea to punch some holes in them lol. Comments?

Also FYI- if there's anyone like me who doesn't mind waiting for the price on this thing to go down (I'll only be needing a new system for when semester starts), rep told me the Y50 series is sure to still be around on their site come October 2014.

 

Quantity of vents has nothing to do with cooling - it's about the air flow. Cut more vents, and you are actually going to reduce the velocity of the air flow in the machine, or perhaps redirect it to places that don't need it.

 

1. It is definitely a Samsung SSD; mine has that and every source I've found indicates that this is the only 512GB SSD Lenovo is sticking into their Y50s. Swapping the hard drive might save you a few bucks but usually the models with hard drives have less RAM or something else is compromised, so be sure to make sure you are getting the specs you want and do the math carefully before attempting this. The included SSD is no slouch so I doubt you will get more performance this way

2. Heat really isn't an issue with this laptop; due to its power-saving features (switching to Intel graphics; adjusting CPU clock) and the fact that the new 22nm Intel CPU and 860M card both are very efficient chips. I have had this thing under heavy load for hours at a time and temps never exceed 65 C. The fans are not loud at all, either.

 

I have the uhd model and BF4 keeps trying to run on the HD4600. I have it set to select the 860m in the nvidia control panel. Going to reinstall and go from there. Every other modern game runs on the 860m no problem.

 

Thanks for the info, I didn't know this about the venting. Makes you wonder why the upcoming Auros X3+ has back vents as well as front-side-ish vents.

Also thanks for the tip Wombats. I was actually thinking about buying the 4710HQ, 16GB RAM, 4GB VRAM, 1TB hybrid model (currently $1,199 if you submit an eCoupon), and then couple it with a 1TB Samsung 840 Evo SSD, which currently costs $444.99 on Amazon. Hopefully in a few months time - if this specific model is still available - this $1,643.99 purchase might go down to at least $1,400-1,500, which I'll be willing to pay.

 

to prevent dust

actually more vents would help more air flow, because you have more space to allow better air flow. the air velocity is determined by the fans rather than the vents. plus you are never gonna dissipate heat by just air, the heat sink is doing the majority of the job
more vents is never a bad thing, ideally if you aren't afraid of dusts, you can just take off the backlid for the best cooling you can get out of a machine, but not many people want to bother with that
if you see AW 18 or clevo p570em or all those higher end gaming notebooks, they opened up the entire back of the chassis to allow for better air flow.

y50 closed part of the vents to prevent dust, they could add more filters and open up more vents, but that's increases the cost

 

How exactly are some of you guys reaching such great max temps (low 60's) whilst gaming?

 

I just posted a very long post on how to get the Y50 Touch Ultra High Definition at the Microsoft Store for $1259.10 + Tax (assuming you can get the education discount):

IN STORE ONLY [w/ EDU discount, YMMV]: Microsoft Store - Lenovo Y50 Ultra High Definition Haswell i7 Touchscreen Gaming Notebook - Nvidia 860M, 16Gb RAM, 256Gb SSD - $1259.10 + TAX - Slickdeals.net

Hope this helps.

 

Vsync helps keep temps low by preventing the gpu from rendering more than 60fps or 48fps with the UHD model.