Y580 Owners Thread

I think one of your GPUs is going bad (just a hunch). Try this. Hook your TV up to your laptop, then force it to use either the discrete card or the integrated card, while turning off the laptop display.

This will let you know if it's dual monitors causing the problem, our one of the GPU in conjunction with the hdmi out.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

Hey guys,
Well, i really need help from you guys as y580 owner
My y580 has been with me for 1 year ++
I have several problem with this(cant find it on internet though)
First: My y580 touchpad wont work when my i click it in the center of the touchpad, need to restart the y580 for the touchpad to work again.
Second: My y580 cant go to sleep mode, the power button didnt even blink, it just stay on(but the display is going off), and nothing cant wake it up, i have to do force restart to turn it up again.
Third: Heating issues, idle mode can reach 55++C for cpu, and gpu can reach 90++C playing bioshock infinite with high settings.(do i really need to replace thermal paste or are there other method?)
Please kindly help with my problem, sorry for the bad english grammar.
Thanks before

 

you got to repaste
update the bios about the sleep mode issues

 

As to the touchpad issue, try clicking with three fingers in the center of your touchpad. It sounds like you are inadvertently disabling it with one of the gestures. It happens to me on occasion.

As to the temps, if you are pushing the GPU to its limits, I'm going to say that isn't too outside the realm of reasonable for your temps, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't worry. If you've never cleaned out the innards you can try that out. I would be careful before changing the GPU paste, sometimes the dint use grease on those but special pads, so do your research first.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

 

missed that out











__________________________________________________________________________________________________________
العاب بن تن - العاب قص شعر - العاب سبونج بوب

 

Similar to Kevinn I have also been having my y580 run hot....My immediate reaction was to clean dust from the fan. However, after I removed the two screws from the back of the computer holding the keyboard in place, I realized that the keyboard itself was exceptionally difficult to remove. Is there anyone here that has had experience in removing the keyboard or cleaning the fan that knows any tricks to removing it? I really don't want to force the keyboard and accidentally snap the ribbon or something.

 

I have a problem with my Y580's left hinge and right speaker. There is one month of warranty left.
1.5 months after I got it, the left hinge kept making cracking sounds when the lid was being closed. I couldn't be bothered it send it back for repairs, and the problem persisted from then on. At times, sometimes the cracking sounds happened and sometimes they didn't.
Once it got so bad that it felt like the hinge would break off. However, In the last months of warranty, it has been better (almost normal) but if I leave the lid half opened for a few hours, the hinge will crack when I close it. But only when it's being closed, no problems when opening.
There's still a soft bezel creaking sound around the hinge which does not happen on the good right hinge.

The right speaker went completely for 30seconds as I was playing music. I want this repaired but has only happened three times and I can't prove it faulty to Lenovo.

I want my laptop to last at least 5 years. Have you had this problem? Should I return it for repair?

Thank you so much.

 

Hey, folks. I've been experiencing the weirdest issue. Every 3-5 minutes of watching a youtube video or playing a game my FPS goes really low and starts obviously skipping frames while the sound remains unchanged. If I press a key or move the mouse the video or game fixes itself and the FPS returns to normal only for it to happen again in a couple of minutes. I have installed the latest drivers for basically everything including bios and the problem persists. Any ideas?

 

Have you looked at the temps? It may be throttling down alot. Also try looking at the memory usage when that happens. I had drastic fps drops before and learned that a memory leak was happening and taking up almost all the memory I had. Something to do with wmp for me that time.

 

At some point recently my multitouch stopped working. Regular mouse features work fine. I've uninstalled and reinstalled the Synaptic driver. I read somewhere that you can go into the control panel and open the mouse device and adjust settings for the touchpad there, but mine only shows the mouse controls. I tried searching for the software for the Intelligent Touchpad, but can't seem to find the correct download for my Ideapad Y580 for Windows 8. Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

hey everyone. i hope this doesn't turn into a long post but ill see what happens after im done typing it. a little background info...i bought a gs70 so i don't use the y580 anymore and was going to sell it. the Ethernet port on the y580 didn't work so i sent it to get fixed. they replaced the motherboard and it was fine. when i got it back i re installed windows and something wasn't right. kept crashing and freezing right after windows would boot. so i called them up and got them to send me a new HDD and recovery disks.i got the HDD and installed windows...same issue. (but it does boot to windows)

i called back up and she said it could be the RAM or mother board. so i put in some spare RAM i had laying around and walla, it works fine....now for the issue im having. when i called them Thursday, they told me my last day of warranty is Friday (2/7/14).

so anyways. since i want to sell the laptop i decided to install windows again and see if the disks install the SSD as the cache that its supposed to be without having to do anything myself...i go into bios and set everything up to boot from the ODD. the install disks freeze up when its at the DOWORK part of the install (installing software and drivers). the first time it stopped was when it was installing the ExpressCache software. so i assume it was setting up the SSD correctly. but it froze (waited 30 min to be safe).

im wondering if im doing something wrong. i deleted the partition of the SSD to start fresh. and still the same issue. do i have something wrong in BIOS? do i have to remove the SSD and then after windows install, put it back in? how do they get the SSD cache to work from factory.

i couldnt find any other issues like this after hours of researching...kind of close to it, but not close enough.. thanks for reading.


Edit with a update. I removed the msata and the install went fine with the recovery disks. When I powered down and put the msata back in, the laptop won't boot into Windows even when selecting the HDD and the boot...any ideas?

another edit: i put the mSata into my other laptop that has two msata slots and an hhdd. the OS is on one msata but the laptop just wanted to boot from the 16 GB cache . so something is up with the msata but i cant get to it to clean it in disk management in windows.... the Y580 doesn't recognize the msata in bios. but my other laptop did

My guess as of now is that some Windows install is on the msata.and something with rapiddrive. From the fresh install is merged the msata and the hdd. I just don't know where to go from here.

 

I have experienced the same issue. It was driving me crazy!

They seem to be scan lines due to the refresh rate getting out of sync. I tried everything to do with the V-Sync setting, different refresh rates in the Intel control panel and so on and nothing worked.

I ended up coming to the same conclusion you did. The issue only happens when you are in "clone" or "extended" modes. As soon as you switch solely to the TV as your primary display, they are gone. It is interesting that it only occurs on the secondary display, despite which device it is. That could be a clue.

It is definitely not the card dying as someone suggested, but what I think is some inconsistency that occurs between the refresh rates of the TV and laptop when they are both outputting at once. It might be a driver thing, who knows? I am running the latest Intel and NVIDIA drivers too. Not the last Lenovo versions released (which are very old!)

It is slightly inconvenient because of how I want to use my laptop at times (e.g. play a game/watch a movie on the TV, whilst leaving the laptop free for using the Internet) but I have found that switching displays is the way to go. (As an added bonus it will automatically switch the default audio over to the TV as well, rather than having to select it manually in Windows when you are cloning or extending the desktop.)

 

Hey guys!

I purchased recovery disks from lenovo and I'm thinking about purchasing the Crucial M500 240GB mSata.

Will I run into any problems installing W8 on the mSata with those discs? I'd rather use them than Pragon OS to SSD.

I've browsed around the internet and I'm not sure if I'll need to do any tweaks or if I'll have boot order issues. I've done clean installs in the past on desktops.

Thanks!

 

when i installed my msata to put the OS on. i just removed the HDD, put in the new mSata. went to bios. switched to legacy and set ODD to boot. put in disks and then go from there. you can do a manufacture install or a clean install with those disks. manufacture takes a long time to install and comes with all the bloat. clean install is just the drivers.

 

Thanks. Just received my disks. Looks like they only boot in legacy support mode and I see that you needed to make that change.

I thought Windows 8 needed to be installed using UEFI? Or does it work fine in legacy mode and do we have to keep it in that mode?

 

Once it's installed you just switch it back

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

thank you for posting your experience. I also played around with Vsync settings but nothing solved the issue. At first I thought it was something related to windows and drivers but I tried once booting Ubuntu from a usb stick and the issue was still present on my TV; this was before realizing the failure followed the second monitor so I really never tried changing the default one. In my mind this points out towards a hardware issue, not necessarily GPU dying, but more like it needing more power to drive signals on both devices at the same time. Who knows. In the end, because my personal usage model does not involve looking 99% of the time at both screens I decided to live with this issue (although a part of me dies everytime I remember this issue ) Anyway, this is a really nice laptop and now I am even considering upgrading to an SSD to boost up performance, because even though I installed lenovo's expresscache solution, sometimes it is sluggish and I know performance can improve dramatically.

Off-topic, but has anyone bought a spare battery? I am considering to buy one but I don't want to be scammed by ebay sellers who claim it is authentic OEM when it is not.

 

Hi. Sorry if this has been answered before. I upgraded to Windows 8 and then updated to 8.1 but I still have the LENOVO_PART partition that belongs to my windows 7 period so I assume that it doesn't work with my current OS. Is it safe if I just delete that partition? It's like 15GB that I might use it for something else. And about OKR, can I still use it on Windows 8.1? Thanks for your kind answers and sorry again if I'm asking something answered beforehand.

Sent from my GT-I9300

 

I just today bought a Lenovo Y580-2099 P/N 59359510, big upgrade over my Alienware M15X based on briefly playing with it. Both are stock and I can't imagine I will do any upgrades this time either but I want to keep up with this thread just for interesting reading.

 

Anyone found a fix for stuck keys? You know when it takes more than one keypress to register that key. It isn't a sticky keys issue in Windows (disabled). The behavior is seen when entering my BIOS password and when I boot into my linux install. As time goes along, more and more keys start to exhibit this "stuck key" behavior. I already reseated my keyboard according to the Y480/Y580 user's manual but the stuck keys remain. Do I have to suck it up and get a Y580 keyboard replacement? Several of my keys behave this way, so now I have to use a usb keyboard.

 

HOW TO BOOT the Y580 FROM USB OR DVD

You may not have any trouble doing this. My experience is varied. I have an Acronis Rescue disk, 2014, that is recognized automatically and all I have to do is go into the BIOS and set the internal DVD player as the first boot device (I can leave it as UEFI).
But this won't work for my USB or other bootable DVDs (including windows 8.1 recovery). I've sorted this problem out (it works on my machine!) and would like to share this guide.
=================================================================
GUIDE
If you are having trouble booting the Y580 from a USB stick/drive, from a USB DVD drive or from the internal DVD then try the following -
There are 2 methods, one is easier but may not work. (to be honest I have not tested this with an external USB DVD drive but the theory seems sound)

EASIER WAY (applies only to USB Stick/drive or USB DVD player)
===============================================
1.Turn off the laptop and plug in the USB stick (or USB DVD player)
2. Reboot the laptop into the BIOS (press the F2 key, and holding it down, turn on the computer. Keep the F2 key pressed till you enter the BIOS screen.)
2. Go into the BOOT tab (horizontal menu at the top) and make sure that "USB BOOT" is "Enabled" (use the cursor keys to navigate the BIOS screen, mouse wont work here - instructions at the bottom of the BIOS screen tell you how to move the cursors, how to select things, how to change values and how to move items up the list)
3. You should see your USB device listed (IF YOU DO NOT SEE YOUR USB DEVICE LISTED HERE THEN THIS METHOD WILL NOT WORK, in that case jump to Step 2 of the "HARDER WAY" method)
You may see a USB device listed in 2 lists, one list is "EFI" and the other is "BOOT DEVICE PRIORITY". In the "EFI" list it will be called "EFI USB Device <USB MASS STORAGE DEVICE>", and in the "BOOT DEVICE PRIORITY" it will be called "USB HDD <USB MASS STORAGE DEVICE>" (names may vary). Select the USB device by clicking ENTER when the device is highlighted then press F6 to raise the USB device up to the top of the list. Do it for both lists.
5. Exit the BIOS screen and save the changes you made by pressing F10. Press enter when the option appears to "Save changes and exit".

HARDER WAY (for USB stick/drive, USB DVD drive and internal DVD)
==================================================
This method is for laptops that that run Windows 8 and 8.1
and have the BIOS that supports this OS. This BIOS is called v8.01 (5DCN90WW).
It may be the same procedure on machines running Windows 7 that have a different version of the BIOS.

1. Turn off the laptop, connect the USB stick/drive or insert the DVD and reboot into the BIOS (Using the F2 key as detailed above.)
2. Go into the BOOT tab (horizontal menu at the top) and scroll down to "Boot Mode" (may also be called "UEFI/BIOS boot mode") and choose "LEGACY SUPPORT" (there are probably only 2 choices, "legacy support" or "UEFI")
3. Make sure that "USB BOOT" is "Enabled" on this screen too. (won't affect DVD of course)
4. Exit the BIOS screen and save the changes you made by pressing F10.
5. The system now reboots and should boot straight off your USB stick or DVD

Returning the BIOS to normal
============================
When you want the laptop to boot from the HDD, just make sure there is no DVD or USB connected when you boot.
If you want to return the BIOS to UEFI control then go into the BOOT tab of the BIOS and set "BOOT MODE" to "UEFI".

POSSIBLE COMPLICATIONS
-----------------------------------
#IS THE DEVICE BOOTABLE?
Just make sure the usb or dvd is actually bootable (has another machine been able to boot from this USB stick or DVD?)
#IS IT THE RIGHT KIND OF PARTITION ON THE USB OR DVD?
make sure the USB or DVD has a uefi boot partition (this is for a bios that gives uefi/legacy choice, such as mine)
#DO YOU HAVE A DIFFERENT BIOS?
If your BIOS is different to the one I talk about, then you will need to adapt this method to what you see on your BIOS screen, or you could update your BIOS to the same version as mine, which is v8.01 (5DCN90WW). Be very careful updating your BIOS (make sure it's the one for your exact model of laptop) becasue if you update/flash it with the wrong file it can finish off your laptop!
#IT STILL WON'T BOOT!! (this solution is only for a USB device, inc USB DVD player)
You may find that even after you have made the changes to the BIOS it still doesn't boot from the USB. In that case you have to go into the BIOS again and tell the computer to boot from the USB before it tries the hard drive or any other method.
To do that, follow Step 3 of the "Easier Method" detailed above. (makes the USB device the first device to boot from). Just to recap, at this point your USB device will be at the top of the boot device list(s), "USB Boot" will be "Enabled" and "Boot Mode" will be set to "Legacy Support"
And of course when you have made the changes, then "save changes and exit" (F10).

 

Anyone here tried to upgrade to Windows 10?
I did but had no internet, no driver for LAN and Wireless was compatible with Windows 10, besides the mic wasn't working.

 

Can't believe I'm posting in this thread after so long.

Wanted to check peoples experiences with updating to windows 10.

The little upgrade icon is gone. The last time I checked, it said something about not being ready and that Microsoft was working with it's partners. I'm guessing Lenovo is taking forever with driver updates.

Are people doing an upgrade, or creating a flash drive/dvd and doing a fresh install? I would prefer to do a clean install.

Definitely want to upgrade, but don't want to get stuck with components that won't work because of driver issues.

 

Like I said in my previous post, I updated with the media creating tool here. Created the ISO, burned it and loaded setup from Windows and chose to not search for updates and to keep only files, erase apps and settings. Everything went fast, except for a moment when it booted up like I meant a clean install but resetting the laptop did the trick and the upgrade continued after that. Arrived to Windows 10 desktop and to my surprise no LAN and no Wifi drivers were compatible. Searched heaven and earth with no luck for such drivers, alas I had to go back to Windows 8.1. Fortunately, there is an option to go back to how things were, so no big loss. If anyone finds compatible drivers please tell us so I can try to upgrade again.

 

Can you use Windows 8.1 drivers?

I'm also interested in upgrading to 10 but want to know if it's all going to work first...

I understand the hybrid mSATA SSD+HDD combo is unsupported but I am running a totally clean install (no OKR, etc.) of Windows 7 on a 240 GB mSATA with the 1 TB HDD as a storage drive. I think that should be ok right? (Provided this driver thing is not an issue.)

 

Hi, nope, no windows 8 drivers worked for me. I didn't do a clean install though, don't know if that might work.

 

I have been reading a few threads on the official Lenovo Windows 10 forum that are relevant to this issue.

Firstly, there are people who have upgraded successfully with a Y580 reporting in this thread: https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Windows-10/Y580-and-Windows-10/td-p/2100131

It does sound like they had success with a clean install though rather than an upgrade.

Finally, there are multiple models having issues with no network interfaces after upgrading, reported on here: https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/Windows-10/Windows-10-no-network-connections-or-wifi/td-p/2130264

Several fixes are mentioned in there, including an official Microsoft hotfix that just came out.

Could you try some of those and see if any work? Report back with your findings if possible, thanks.

 

Hey guys!

Anyone still here?
I am a computer enthusiast, and owning this laptop since the start of college (5 years now). I have upgraded, disassembled and reinstalled my system way more times than I can remeber.

Major changes (feel free to ask for any how-to):

• RAM 4GB -> 4GB + 8GB dual channel
• storage 750GB -> 750GB + 256GB mSATA SSD + 1TB HDD instead of the ODD
• changed thermal conductive paste on the heatsink
• Windows 7 -> Windows 10

Despite I know this machine inside-out, there is still one missing piece of the puzzle, that I can not find anywhere! What does the third miniPCIe slot works for? I mean I know that there are configurations with TV tuners occupying that slot, but can it be used for anything else?
I did some research on the topic and found, that mPCIe slots can be used for anything by default, BUT laptop manufacturers limit their capabilities by not connecting all the pins of the connector to the motherboard, or even mix them. This means, that you can not install an mSATA SSD instead of the WLAN card and vice versa, even if they physically match, because the physical wiring of the mPCIe ports are different.

For what can I use my third mPCIe slot? And also, with how many lanes do these ports connect to the CPU, and what generation? Like PCIe 2.0 x1, x4, PCIe 3.0 x1, x4? This DOES matter, and I can not find any information regarding this anywhere!

Wondering why am I so curious about this? External GPU.