*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

I have the Logitech MX Master mouse and I'm really happy with it. It holds battery power for hundreds of hours of usage.

 

I use the Logitech M330 Silent Plus. I can click-click-click away in ARPGs and it's so quiet it doesn't annoy my wife.

 

Did a quick OC on the CPU through XTU, running @ 4.5ghz with a slight undervolt and video card OC (150/300) pushed to 18206. No clue why I keep getting invalid scores, but neither here nor there since I am not trying to break any records. Max CPU temps were in low 60's and max GPU temp was 75C. Going to see how far I can push the video card OC and CPU later, just excited to finally have stable temps it looks like.

For those that have overclocked to around 4.7ghz and above, does the added voltage impact temps much in this unit?

 

pls put your system specs in your sig so we can see what hardware you got.

feel free to steal my sig as a template and edit it to your specs

 

I imagine it would. Voltage tends to scale quadratically, being far more impactful on thermals than just raw clock speeds. That's not to say clock speed doesn't contribute to heat, as it clearly does, but voltage tends to matter more in that regard. I do not own one of these laptops (yet), but I am curious to see to what degree thermal runaway affects these things. "The hotter something gets, the more power it uses. The more power it uses, the hotter it gets".

Has anyone kept an eye on CPU package power consumption in correlation with their temperatures? Would love to see where the "wall" is, in regards to clock speeds vs required voltage (likely depending on specific bins of your CPU) and then compare the "cost" for that extra 100mhz.

 

I installed XTU today to check what kind of undervolt the vendor I purchased from did on my system, and it looks as though there was no undervolt done. I'm not sure how to use XTU, and I also don't know if I should do this myself or contact my vendor about something that they were supposed to do themselves? What would you guys suggest?

I'm having a couple different issues, as well: Number 1: my system will not allow me to update graphics drivers. GFE states that I have the latest drivers installed, but the most recent ones I have are from October of last year. #1.1 - When I use NVidia's driver finder, it says that I need to download them from my vendor. I did, and tried to install those, but get an error stating that I don't have a compatible GPU (hardware). #1.3 - When I download and install them manually, halfway through the install, my screen goes so dark that I can't see it at all. Reverting the install (through use of an external monitor), does not solve the massive dimming. My first Windows install got borked and a reset didn't solve the issue either. I had to completely reinstall Windows. #2 - The brightness setting on my system does not work at all. I've read on here from other owners that this is common for the 120hz screen? But it kind of frustrates me, as I do use it at night somewhat, and it is really bright that way. Any fix? #3 - There was no undervolt on the CPU.

I know that some of these are nitpicks, but I paid a LOT of money for this system, and it isn't perfect. I don't know if I'm being picky, or if these are legit concerns. I'm pleased with the customer service that I received prior to the system arriving. I just don't know what I should do at this point. Any advice guys?

tldr - lots of little issues with brand new laptop, and needing advice/help.

 

Sure, here you are:



I don't think I've changed any of my other settings. My GPU changes are only two: core clock +150 MHz, memory clock +300 MHz. Basically what @Mr. Fox recommended. He suggested a range, and I've had great performance and stability by walking right down the middle of that path. My XTU settings are my own tinkering, based on advice from @Phoenix and @Mr. Fox.

 

Others may recommend a larger bag, but I like to keep my bag as small as possible due to frequent travel. I'm very happy with the Everki Glide ( see my previous post for details and photos). The whole Everki line are really well made. My Glide was US$80 from Micro Center.

 

I recommended those GPU OC settings my friend. Call it OC level 1 if you will. Mr. Fox would surely recommend higher overclock levels than I would. Be brave, be like Mr. FOX

 

Thanks for all your input on bags and mice. I will be helping them out!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Checking not helping. Haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Very interested in your further reports on this!

 

You were absolutely correct, thanks! I went back to the utils media, and there it was. All good now!

 

Jumping into undervolting can feel daunting at first, but it's really not that big of an issue if you pace yourself and don't do anything crazy. Try doing a minor undervolt at first - for example, set the Core Voltage Offset to -50mV (which is a very modest undervolt for this machine) and run some stress tests and benchmarks and games.

If it's stable, you can try pushing the offset further down. That's how most people do it; push and test the voltage gradually until the system becomes unstable (usually a blue screen crash) - and then use the last stable setting.

The other option is to set a static undervolt in the Core Voltage (not the offset setting). Check out syscrushers post just below yours.

Also, read up on how the voltage and multipliers work so you at least have some idea of what's going on.

Did you try doing a "custom" installation when updating manually, and choosing "perform clean installation"? Alternatively, you can try completely wiping the old drivers with DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller from http://www.wagnardsoft.com) - and then installing the latest driver.

Also, make sure you download the correct driver version.

Try downloading f.lux ( https://justgetflux.com/). It doesn't change the brightness, but it changes the colours of your screen to a warmer hue during nighttime. A couple of pages back someone had suggestions for software that can mimick brightness changes.

 

I just noticed that hidevolution is now offering the cmos battery mod that @Mr. Fox did for his machine.

 

I have successfully installed Sierra 12.10.3, almost everything working(can't test hdmi/dp port, usb c). graphics driver not working for now since they need 12.10.4( updating right now).
so far its great not a single feature that I use is broken, everything working for me except for sleep, its broken until. I install graphic driver after update in 2-3 hours hopefully(internet too slow here . )

edit: I have removed the cmos completely and its been more than 20 days, doesn't have once the bios reset on me. so I believe as long as batery is not connected the removing cmos doesn't harm. now if I have to reset nvram just have to hold power button for 10-20sec without charger and it works fine. Moding it will be much better and safer tho.

 

Yea, I got this on mine when I ordered it! Super excited I won't have to mess with that.

 

I ordered mine before they had the option. I'm always eager to see progress so I stalk the site and I happened upon the update. I have been interested in this mod since I first came across it. It's an oversight that the system can't be completely reset without digging the cmos battery out. At least there is a viable solution now.

 

That's awesome. Those guys never cease to amaze me. @Ted@HIDevolution, @Donald@HIDevolution, @thattechgirl_viv and @Zoltan@HIDevolution are awesome. I think they are looking into doing the bottom cover mod as well.

 

@UsmanKhan How did you get Sierra working? With Unibeast, the trackpad does not work.

 

I'm glad to be able now to get a username for @thattechgirl_viv, because I'm pretty sure she did the build on my machine (and excellent work that was, Vivian).

 

@UsmanKhan yes I'd be curious to know as well. I've been trying with the niresh distro and got nowhere!

 

So today after playing BF1 on stock settings.....Temps need adjustment. I'm going to apply that 1.24v and see how it goes.

 

I would try a -150mV undervolt on the core and cache. Those voltages are pretty dang high and the reason your temps are toasty.

What fan speed? Max fan speed is 150% with cooler boost. I would probably use 100%.

 

Looks like you have a 4.5ghz OC if I am reading things right, you have too much voltage for that speed. I have a -125mV undervolt with mine at that clock level and your temps are going to cause your GPU to run way too hot if both are under full load.

 

I shall try that.

 

Yea it was pretty funny. I called and asked @Donald@HIDevolution if they could do this and he said oh sure. Then just a few minutes after we talked it was on their website. But yea I love then even in the little time I have been following this and looking at ordering mine they have continued to push hard.

 

If you are running stock multipliers the voltage is way too high. Try setting static (override) with 1050 or 1075 (1.050V or 1.075V) for stock core ratios. I use only 1.125V for 4.7GHz. I don't need 1.240V until like 4.9GHz.

 

hey, i have everything working now after updating to 10.12.4 including full graphics and cuda.
keyboard brightness control dont work but works using software slider. its perfect much stable thn my 2011 macBook, crazy. for wifi you have to use the linked wifi chip as this is the only m.2 wifi card that currently supports mac(with some patches).
will post some pics and links to install sierra when get some free time.
Also note that i clone sierra from my macbook to tornado hardisk thn tweak clover to boot sierra, so im not sure if installer is different or not.you dont have
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Broadcom-BC...T-4-0-DW1560-for-Mac-Hackintosh-/252319175707

do not use anything less thn 10.12.4 sierra. coz the drivers for pascal support are only for sierra 12.10.4, i did spoof my version to 10.12.4when i was on lower OS but it didnt worked so have to update. for perfect install u will need to have access to a Mac.
if you dont have any mac try downloading official sierra in DMG or ISO format and make bootable usb using Transmac(free software), thn use clover to boot to usb and install.

Edit: G-sync dont work for now, monitor's LG-Led is detect as a external without any g-sync support, nvidia card does shows g-sync but cant enable for now, will see if i can find a ptach for it.

 

Oh, wait, what?!? You guys are using the 16L13 as a Hackintosh?

 

Mine is still in the build process so I was able to add the mod. I'd consider purchasing an extra bottom cover if HIDEVOLUTION are really going to offer the mod pioneered by @Mr. Fox.

 

They make a habit of rapid turnaround of new features, I think. When the EVOC-16L-G-1080 was first becoming available, @Donald@HIDevolution knew it was close to my specs, so he contacted me to let me know it was coming. I spent a lot of time reviewing the specs, and concluded it was a fantastic choice for me, if only I could give up my spec for a 4K panel and live with 1080p. I did some testing, found that while that wasn't ideal, it was tolerable in exchange for all the other great features. I called Donald, with the intent of asking if a 4K panel would be available, and if so, how soon. If he had said "no plans for that", or "months away", I would have gone ahead and ordered anyway. But he laughed, and said, "As a matter of fact, we have just finalized the wholesale contract for that a few minutes ago." That sealed the deal. So I strongly suspect I got the very first 4K unit of this model from HIDevolution.

 

yea, hope u dont mind me limiting this machine ahaha. but so far its far superior thn any mac i have ever used and i have used mac with 450 radeon. my unity is blazing fast compare to my cousins' 3k+$ mac, its unbelievable.

 

Well, since Apple seems to have no interest in building high-performance systems worthy of the name Macbook Pro any more, it seems the community has stepped in to show them how it's done.

 

Are you dual-booting Sierra, or did you wipe Windows and give Sierra the whole machine?

I'm really thinking to try to get Sierra running under VMware on this system. Even in a VM, this beast is still going to kick the stuffing out of Apple's new hardware -- and the MSI keyboard doesn't suck. (Seriously, Apple, did you guys expect people to actually type on those new machines? Apparently not.)

 

Yea I would for sure do that if they started offering it before my build was complete. But I doubt that's the case. Maybe I'll just order that separately down the road.

 

i have windows on nvme and mac on HDD, but i'll be removing windows down the road.
i had tried to install mac under VM several time but failed(didnt tried sierra ho), but VM a supports graphic acceleration and may not perform decently on 3d rendering softtwares etc.

 

I used a -150Mv and it lowered temps a little bit, let me try with your suggestion now. Going with 1075.

 

Oh, I have no problem with this at all. I am glad you are doing it. I agree that Apple's hardware offerings are too anemic and there is nothing wrong with using the OS if that is what you want. As Micro$loth continues to add garbage features that ruin Windows 10, this alternative is as good as any. Thank you for doing it. I think it's good even though it's not necessarily something I would want for myself. Awesome.

Cool (pun intended). Let us know how it goes. Don't be afraid to go up or down from 1075 in small increments to find the value that works best for your CPU.

 

Ahhh we might have a problem.....so the -150Mv was set and I changed the Override now from 1250 to 1075, save and reset, now the laptop will not post, I force shut down by the power button and then try again but it won't start or post.

Does that mean I screwed up? Everything else is stock.

 

If you left the -150 offset instead of removing it, there may not be enough voltage to POST with only 1075. (The 1250 is bascially stock voltage.) What you had before (1250 + -150 offset) works out to 1.100V. 1075 + -150 offset is only 0.925V.

You need to clear NVRAM to reset the defaults. You can try the EC reset switch and see if that works.

Should look like this...

 

RESET CMOS. It's a pain in the but, but if the pin hole reset button doesn't work for you, then you have to remove that battery.

 

1st bench, no overclock. results are almost similar to windows. cpu running with -155mv undervolted. gpu has no OC either.



Notice warm colors, NightShift working too!!, that makes it almost 99% features working lol. its faster thn the fastest macbookpro.
edit: can see KLM working too, so we dont even lose cool looking keyboard lights!

also note that bench were perform with all the background apps runing, chrome with 20+ tabs and only 1 bench perform. will do more when get some more time.

 

Nice! Are you using some kind of emulator for things like KLM to run, or does Mac OS X run them natively? Does ThrottleStop and XTU work?

 

how much faster though ?

 

I wish that screen shot was not resized. It's too small to read anything after it has been messed up by PhotoBucket. Can you upload images in the original size without shrinking them?

 

Yes I had it like that but I need now to adjust the -150Mv back to -100Mv and try with a 1150 Override. How long should I push that pinhole for?

 

If it comes to that, I need to do the mod while at it.

 

DO NOT use any negative offset with override voltage. That is why you are having no POST. Use override (static) and set the correct amount with no offset. The offset serves no purpose with static voltage. All that will do is make the system behave erratically using an offset. If you do use a offset with override voltage, it should only be a very small amount like -5 or +5 to fine tune. Even then, you can just change the override value by the same amount, which eliminates the need for using the offset.

When using adaptive voltage with an offset, do not change the core voltage manually. Just leave it set to BIOS default (zero means Auto). Doing so is not necessary, as the purpose of the offset is to lower or increase voltage from the stock (Auto) value.