*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

this KLM is a port of KLM someone made for linux, it works natively. i didnt used any emiulator/wine so not sure if ts/xtu will work. but the settings in bios sticks on mac just like windows.
sorry for low quality, i do coz my internet is abysmally slow, u can see that download speed lol.
will upload directly now.

its not about performance, it's about able to use some of the best designing software with with a great and simple OS(i love Apple MacOS but hate their hardware). also i think performance is better in general task maybe coz mac smoother/fluid thn windows.

 

Thank you for the valuable lesson, seems NVRAM button isn't doing a damn thing, I guess tomorrow I will remove the battery and resit it.

 

That is much better. Thank you. I am impressed. So, are you going to make a "How To" guide in a new thread once you have everything figured out? It's about performance for me, but I am also have no objection to giving the Redmond Mafia nightmares for producing garbage like Windoze OS X. If you do a nice tutorial I might even do it myself to spite the digi-Nazis. I have a spare M.2 that I can install it on without disturbing my OS configuration. I have always hated Apple products, but now that Micro$haft is in the same camp (being a hate recipient) it's like six of one, half dozen of the other.

Well, that's not a fun lesson. I am really sorry that happened because correcting it is so inconvenient. Had I known you were going to leave the offset I would have clarified that you need to set it back to zero offset. But, now you have a good reason to do the CMOS battery mod.

 

Now you install Parallels Desktop, or VMware Fusion, and you run Windows and Linux in virtual machines.

 

Okay, I get that - but from your experience, how much faster is this then the next Mac ?

I genuinely wish to know this... if you can share. Or what your opinion is on it further. Hope I'm not asking too much, just figure someone has a chance to share something unique, and interesting why not try and ask !

 

Personally, I'd rather dual-boot, or triple-boot, and give each OS absolute command and control of 100% of the system resources it needs to be awesome. I've never seen a value in VM technology for casual or pleasure purposes, but I do understand it has great merit for software testing and development exercises.

I'd like to know the same thing. As in, how much shame does the performance of the Tornado F5 booting Mac OS X bring to owners of pathetic Apple turdbook hardware. I'd be interested in doing the Hackintosh mod for no reason more than the taunting value it could bring. That might be very fun. Imagine running Cinebech with the 7700K at 5.0GHz, and overclocking the 1080 and gaming with double the FPS, then sharing the results with MacBook fanboys sporting those anemic Apple laptops that are struggling with eGPU garbage.

 

The good news is that many of the current 3D rendering and modeling apps are now cross-platform, so you can run those on whatever you natively boot, and not worry about VM performance.

It's frustrating to me that neither VMware nor Parallels can emulate DX11 in a Windows VM unless the physical host is booting Windows. They're still stuck at DX9 or DX10, which means no support for tessellation or compute shaders.

 

oh im poor in how-to do. but i'll do a one post how to do on weekend hopefully in a text file formate so not to pollute this forum. you can overclock the cpu through bios, or the Clover bootloader works perfectly fine. im not sure on graphic part. also my config can be share among the similar board + cpu users too so they dont have to do any fixes.

oh i thought u wanted to know mac vs windows on this laptop. its much faster thn a apple book except for loading some stuff coz on mac u have those pci-e with 2000+MB/s while im running this off a 100MB/s HDD. unfortunately i dont have access to any 2k+mb/s PCIe. but in graphics and responsiveness its much better.

true, but i still have the windows as dual boot. i need windows only for testing unity builds under dx11. i need mac for pretty much anything, sketch still missing from windows make it so much less interesting.

 

If you configure a multi-boot setup, using VMware for something like gaming would not make any sense to me if you could simply select the other drive and boot the OS you wish to run on the fly.

 

It depends on what you're doing. The newer Intel and AMD CPUs virtualize almost the whole instruction set in hardware/microcode now, so the overhead of a layer of virtualization is much smaller than it was ten years ago.

I've found that Linux is extremely well-behaved and performant in virtual machines, running at near-native speed. Windows has the DX11 issue I mentioned previously, which means games and graphics apps don't do as well in a VM. My company runs over 200 Linux virtual machines on just four physical hosts, and the physical CPUs are bored most of the time.

I haven't tested performance of the new Macbook Pros, but it's really not a fair contest. This machine kicks the crap out of my Macbook Pro 2013 on performance, but the MBP with power brick weighed 3 pounds less and got 4X the battery life. Different design focus; Apple wants the ultrabook market. My gripe at Apple's new line is not that they are bad machines, but that they are calling something a Macbook Pro that is not suited for content creators. I liked my MBP, but felt abandoned by their new focus on weight and power over all else -- justified in a Macbook, not justified in a Macbook Pro, IMO.

 

Oh, absolutely agreed. Any kind of heavy-graphics gaming is not a good use-case for virtual machines. But I did a five-year modding project of Oblivion (Elder Scrolls IV) entirely within a Windows VM running on a physical Macbook Pro. Oblivion only needs DX9, because it's an older game, so it actually ran okay in Parallels Desktop.

 

Unfair contests are the best kind. Nothing like a good old fashioned blood bath to put things in perspective.

No need to ask " who's your daddy" when the numbers speak louder than words.

 

that what the Air was suppose to be, they abondon it and made Pro Air successor rather making powerful machines, batery life means zero for me. my laptop is 24/7 most time on power for unity baking/rendering i only need to have atleast backup of 15-30 min if power goes down and this laptop provides atleast 1:30 hrs on 100% usuage thats sufficient.

also MacOS doesnt work well on VM under windows/linux hosts(non-apple hardware), since its not legal the optimization arent much. it crawls in VM compare to native install.

 

Svet unlocked BIOS - done.
CMOS battery cable extension plug - done.
76mm dia. base vents (with 1mm mesh) - done.
Copper M.2 SSD heatsinks - done.

Thanks to @Mr. Fox for inspiring me to attack my brand new laptop with the cordless drill and a holesaw, cut through the cables on the CMOS battery and remove the warranty sticker on my SSD

All that is left to do now is find some time to delid this 7700K.

 

You kidding me? You don't learn a damn thing if you are scared of doing something, a mistaken is bound to happen and that's how you learn, well not in everything but in such a small thing as this then yes. Ted just contacted me out of thin air (you guys at HID are FAST) so I asked him about the kit they have on their site for the 16L about the CMOS battery.

If you don't mind, what are the materials, did you just get to cut the wires, connect extension cables to reach the other side of the motherboard then connect the other half of the cables leading to the battery? I haven't opened this baby up yet, I'm going to watch your tear down video soon.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371784893...49&var=640757848037&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Cut through the CMOS battery cable then soldered one male and one female of the above inline. Covered the joins with some shrink wrap and the battery hooks nicely over the post for the outermost M.2

 

This is what I ordered. It is enough to make them for 10 machines. http://www.ebay.com/itm/332068526980

The color coding is backwards, but that does not matter since it is only an extension cord and the connectors only fit one way. These are male and female, so you just solder the wires together and have male on one end and female on the opposite end. Plug the male end into the mobo and the female end route to the accessible side of the motherboard to plug in the battery.

The way I did it there is no reason to cut the wire on the CMOS battery. The connectors are an exact fit. All you need to do is solder the ends together and seal the joins with heat shrink tubing.

 

Man I want to do the bottom panel mod, but i sell stuff to get newer toys and don't want to butcher the stock panel. Anyone have a tip where I can get a replacement panel? I tried MSI for the GT62vr model but no response.

 

Call HIDevolution or Eurocom.

 

Thanks, I pinged Donald and awaiting back a response.

 

What size heat sinks did you go with? I found some copper ones 2-4mm in thickness made specifically for the 960 pro so I am looking at picking up two.

 

If and when you do sell it, someone that knows better might actually prefer to have that "butchered" panel over one with a suffocating stock panel.

 

I used 7 of these on one ssd.

I did get a quote for a replacement bottom panel after emailing MSI UK customer support, who are based in Poland.

Bottom cover: 65 Euro approx. (including shipping charges + VAT)


Specs: MS-16L1,ODM,BLACK(MT-11015),BOTTOM_DOOR_KIT(MESH/BLACK),ROHS COMPLIANCE(attached)


If we have parts in factory to sell then we’ll order it from China for you & if not then we’ll inform you, that’s why we’ve provided you an approx. price.

The selling process takes around a month(max.).

 

I saw your video on how to get to the CMOS battery on your motherboard tear down. I can do it.
I'm going to order those then, but here are some extra questions from me:
1- "These are male and female, so you just solder the wires together" What do you mean by this? Can you also post a few photos on how your mod looks like from both ends? I only understood that this is just a simple thing to do as in "buy cable, open motherboard, remove CMOS battery with it's cable, install extension cable, put the motherboard back in place and extension cable by the M.2 furthest gap, connect the CMOS battery" so what to solder here exactly?
2-The Ram Sticks, since there are 4 slots, if mine aren't installed on the backside of the motherboard but on the easy to reach part, can I just simply remove them from there and install them on the harder to reach side? Will my machine boot up just fine or do I have to go in order exactly from the easy side to the hard side? I figured I should leave the easy to reach side empty so I can install the new ram modules once they come in.
3-Is it ok to Re-use the same thermal paste without removing them or do I have to REMOVE them then re-apply a new layer?
4-I do have the static matt with strap, are there any other tips you can provide to me while taking down my machine?
5-God Bless you!

 

!!!!!!
Oi I have those! I bought a bunch of them to cool the memory modules on the GPU for a GTX 980 using an H90 CPU cooler for the core (Kraken GPU Bracket) and those little heatsinks with a fan on top to cool them!

 

Sure, glad to help.

1. Maybe these images will explain as well as words. When you buy the wires on eBay they are separate. Half have female end and half have a male end. You have to solder the bare ends together. The red and black are reverse from what the CMOS battery is, but this is unimportant. All you are doing is extending the connection, so both wires could be the same color. As long as you solder red to red and black to black, the polarity will be correct. You are not crossing negative with positive.





2. Yes, you can move the RAM sticks to the keyboard side of the motherboard if you plan to add two more matching sticks later. Everything will work fine. It will boot the same as long as you are running the default memory profile before you relocate them to the other side of the motherboard. If you are using XMP or custom timings, set Default Profile first, and boot using default one time. Then after you move them you can set XMP or custom timings. This is only a precaution to avoid any inconvenience. If you are not planning to add more matching sticks later, I would leave them on the easy side to access for convenience.

3. If you have liquid metal paste and it is still liquid you can smooth it out and reuse it with no issue. If it is dried out, you need to clean off the old paste and apply new. For ordinary thermal paste the answer is similar. If you take it apart for a few minutes you can simply add a small drop in the center of the die prior to reassembly. There is no reason to remove all of the old paste and apply new unless the old paste is dried out. With ordinary paste, I would not reassemble it without adding a small amount more to the center of the die, as you want to be sure the thermal paste contact between heat sink and die is good.

4. No, other than just pay close attention and make note of where the odd screws go. Most are the same, so you only have to remember where a few odd screws go. Make sure your hands are clean and no static build up. If you have to leave and come back, touch something metal on the motherboard, like the CPU retainer bracket, before handling sensitive parts. Avoid touching contacts like edge of RAM or GPU contacts, CPU pin contacts, etc.

5. God bless you as well.

 

I just ordered a set of these for myself. It's apparently going to take a couple of weeks to get them, but I'm in no hurry. Thanks for the link.

 

Thank you. For now I will just remove the battery then resit it as I don't have all the materials for the mod.

One final question I forgot to ask, during your video of the tear down, I was thinking, is it necessary to remove the CPU from the socket? I think I can leave it there yes? Because I only want to remove the battery for a few minutes, not replace the motherboard entirely

 

That is correct. No need to remove the CPU from the socket.

If you unplug the CMOS battery for one or two seconds this is long enough. If you have no AC adapter and unplug the big system battery, the CMOS battery is the only thing left and as soon as you disconnect the CMOS battery NVRAM will be cleared. You do not need to wait a long time.

If your RAM is only on the bottom right now, try removing it and turn on the machine for a few minutes, then turn it off and put back one stick, then power on. This may clear NVRAM. It is worth a try to avoid removing the motherboard for now while waiting for the CMOS battery mod parts. Or, ff you have one different stick of RAM (another speed, like 2133) remove your current sticks and insert the one odd stick in one slot and power on. Sometimes this will reset NVRAM. Maybe this could save you a little time until you are ready to fix the CMOS battery cable. If you have 4 sticks of RAM only removing the easily accessible RAM on the bottom will not likely reset NVRAM.

 

@UsmanKhan Do you have a link or something so I can try installing macOS?

 

I am working on sourcing them. No one carries them as replacement parts because they are so rarely needed...until @Mr. Fox invents a good use for them.

Stay tuned.
.

 

The battery unplugging procedure can be done without removing the heatsinks. I have done it twice now.

 

That is awesome information. I have not tried it. If there are no screws under the heat sink radiators and pipes, then there would be no reason to disconnect them. Thanks for sharing this.

 

Unfortunately this laptop is the most advanced tech in my house right now, it is the only machine with DDR4 RAM, I'm writing from my old desktop running DDR3 RAM, Devils Canyon 4790K and GTX 1080. I'm not worried about tearing apart my laptop, I'm worried if I end up back to my workplace before I fix my mess in this EVOC, gotta hurry up with it!

 

OK, but you can still try removing the RAM sticks, power on the machine with no RAM and let it still for a bit. It may turn off and on again by itself. Then power off and insert one stick, then power on. Sometimes this disturbance is enough of an upset to to the system to force the loss of information stored in NVRAM. Do this with the big battery disconnected.

 

OK I'm watching....how can I do it like you did?

 

I shall give it a try and let you know. it's 2 AM here and it's time to hit the hay, good night!

 

It's a bit fiddly getting the eDP connector back on if you go for the complete lift out. So, on the second occasion, when I did the CMOS battery mod a few days ago I decided to carefully lift the edge of the board once all the screws and connectors were removed, prop up front edge with a couple of bottle corks and use some forceps to pull the battery plug out and after the mod used the forceps to pop the plug back in. It was a bit like playing Operation.

 

I carefully studied the @Mr. Fox teardown video and did everything except for the removal of the heatsinks.

 

Bought a whole bag of these to install them for my customers automatically if needed, thanks to Mr.Fox for sharing his idea and the name of the connector...

So free of charge for anyone who has an F5 with me.

 

Yeah mine took months...

 

Please let me know when you get them, I will definitely order one. I haven't forgotten about my F5 (I use it everyday for work) but I've been busy tweaking my new DT GPU configuration (1080 SLI vs 1080 TI).

 

I will post here once I have sourced them.

 

The loss of the escape key kills the mbp 15 for me. That's just my opinion though. Otherwise I'd definitely rather carry around an mbp than my EVOC for development. I only use the EVOC for gaming.

I still hate the EVOC keyboard. The blade and mbp keyboards are far superior imo.

 

Wow...don't think I have seen anyone hate the Steelseries keyboard. What don't you like about it?

 

doesn't the EVOC have the SteelSeries Keyboard? Man this is the best keyboard I've ever typed on, excellent key travel, sturdy keys, very bright keyboard backlight..... To each his own

 

I suppose hate is a too strong a word. It's not a bad keyboard. The MBP and Blade have a little less travel and are much less "mushy". The Blade and MBP feel much more solid and rigid while typing on them. I think the keys are slightly spaced a little more as well, but I'd have to look at them and measure.

I think maybe this is still me having typed on the MBP/Blade keyboards only for the last 3 years and perhaps I still need more time, but I'm definitely after a week still making mistakes on the EVOC. It's also being abrasive on my left pinky for the ctrl/etc.. keys due to the change in key height and construction material. Where my finger would normally sit flat it hugs the edge of the keys and it's not as comfortable.

I think compared to other keyboards (asus, acer, etc.. ) maybe it's a step up, but compared to the MBP/Blade? It's probably not fair to think it's superior when that's the relative competitor.

So far this is my only complaint though. OH.. and the trackpad.. the trackpad is plain awful compared to the blade/mbp. But i'm not using it (I use the arm of my recliner for a mousepad since it has a flat and wide enough surface.. it's ultra suede.. )

 

do me a favor bro......

Find a Clevo P7xxx or P8xxx and type on it for 3 minutes, then come back and retype what you said

 

"(I use the arm of my recliner...it's ultra suede)" ... Well, that 'splains it!
.

 

huh ? There's no ESC key on the one from HID ? Are you sure, or am I missing something here... do they use a different keyboard or something then stock MS169L13 ?